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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


6^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions 


Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


1980 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


L'Institut  a  microfilmd  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m6thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


D 


D 
D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  jouleur 


I     I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommag6e 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pelliculde 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  pages/ 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 


□    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul6es 

Q    Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachetdes  ou  piqudes 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


0 
D 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


□    Pages  detached/ 
Pages  detachdes 

□    Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  in^gale  de  ('impression 


D 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relid  avec  d'autres  documents 


□    Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 


□ 


D 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutdes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmdes. 


D 

D 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuiilet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  film^es  d  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


D 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires; 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  rddurtion  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 

18X  22X 


10X 


14X 


26X 


30X 


12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library, 

National  Museums  of  Canada 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  origir    I  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — »-  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


L'exemplaire  fiimi  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
gAnArositA  de: 

BibliotMque 

Musies  Nationaux  du  Canada 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  At6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetA  de  l'exemplaire  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimis  sont  filmAs  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmAs  en  commengant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  ure  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — »>  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film6s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichd,  il  est  film6  d  partir 
de  Tangle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

AI 


I 


i 


.^■■. 


THE 


ARCTIC  AND  ANTMCTIC  REGIONS. 


LONDON  :     I'lllNTlU)    liV 

brOTTISWOODK    ANll    CU.,     NK\V-STlll;lir    SQIAIIB 

AND    PAULIAMIINT    bTllBlST 


I 


fl^ 


Ifl 


THE    POLAR    WORLD: 


A     I'uI'LI.AH    lil;.«i  IlII'I  ION    ul" 


MAN    AND    NATURE 


IN    riir 


AUCTIC   AM)   ANTAIJCTIC   lUXilUNS   UF   TIIK   GLOIJK. 


IJV 


DR.    G.    HAUTWIG, 

AT  lllilll  lit' 

'  lilK  ."KA   AM)  ITsi   I.IVINc;    UdMlICUS,'  'Till:   llAllMi'MKrt  OK   NATUIIK," 
AMJ  'Tin;  TUorifAl.   Uulil.U,' 


ir/n/    i:ji;i/r  riii:uMoxyi.i'(in.\i-iiir  n.Mrs,    7111:1:1:  mm-s,   asd 
svMi:n>'rs    woovccTS. 

NATIONAL  I\i.."::UH 

OF  Cix^A.^A 

LONDON: 
L  0  X  G  M  A  N  S,     G  li  l-  E  X,     A  X  D     C  O. 


18()J). 


012181 


1 1  KID): 


1 


PIJEFACK. 


1  "l^"- \Vo,.M  in  i,s  prinri,,,,!  ,,,u„,,l  fc,t„,,„,  ,„ 

T'"    '""    ""■    '"""^■"'■-  "!•   i'^    l"",u    wintor-ni.!,.   ,„„1 

^':""f  '"' '■'■  ""  '!"■  'l-v.  I. .,,.„,..„,  or  v,..,.,,.;i,!c.  ,„„1 

ai.MM.1  ...v,s...M,v.  „n,l  .i„,,||_v  ,„  |,i,,,„,,,  ,„„„  ■,,.,„ j|^_, 

,,'"'■,"'    '"'■  '•'■-■''"^'   II'"  •''•-•■"ll-Ml   .linrnto  „ni,o'l,i,r|, 

,""'"'"'"■  ^'"'"'  '■''l»-''  .-'^  ll.c- inhal.il.ni  „f  their 

^'' '>:   "''"'"'"^  '"■   "^  ll.e  bold    invosii-ntor  of  tli.i, 

.    '''''!'  '■''' '■  ''"""'"'■'  ^l'"«-s  ,1„.  f;,vnt  vurielv  of  in- 

teivM,,,,-  s„i,j,,,.  .,„i,,„,,,,  „. , ,,  „„„,„,,,,,^i;.,,,. ._ 

oomoy  s„l„l  in.stn„.lion   undw  an  ..ntcTt.iniMs  fonn    I 
v«.nnv,„  l,„|„.  ,|.„    „,„   |,„,|i,  ,,;„   ^,,.^„,, -„^.^   _;^^ 


n.  HAHTWir;. 


"i:il)Ki,iii:);f;:  Juinidn/  2.  ]S(!!I. 


The  l!ai 

Illcl' 

I.V  th, 

'I'll..  V 

.VmimI:, 
Srvcri 
Wiii.ls 

M.IM    ;, 

Cliiiiat 
Di'.Om 
Nigiits 


The.  |{,.in, 

l-AllViol 

li'ail;:!'  I 

Glutton 

Thr  Wi 
l-"oX  -It 

Aiiati.la 
l»rw\\:i,- 


The  1 


illlTrll  (tnnill 


C'OXTKXTS. 


I'AIM'    I. 

tin:   AiH'Trc'    imkjioxs. 


CIIAIMKI;   1. 


nil:   Ai;'  ill'   i.anips. 
N  111-  'I'liii'lii     Aliiuiilaiu'i'  lit'  Alii  mill  Life  on  tlicTuiKlri  in  Siiin- 


■<Ilo\V 


Sill  in'c  ami  Krsiilatioii  in  AViiiiiT     I'luti'ctiuii  iiliuniitl  tu  N'lgftaii'pu 
-  l''|u\vir-i^ri)Wth    in   tin.'   liinhi'sf   Latitnilis — Cliiirai'li'P  itf 'I'nniliJi 
Scjutlnrn   Uuuiulary-linf  oi  tlu-  JJari'i  ii  (irnnn<ls-  'I'ln^ir  J'lxtcnt — 
'i'hi-  l'■(l^^•^t  /iini!  — Ai'i'tiL-  Trers     Sluwntss  of  tlu'ir  (innvtli— Moiiutonv  of  tlio 


l.\  th 


Vciit/iation 


Ndi'tlirrn    Kiiri'!-t> 


M. 


ijniti 


'J'lir    various    Cau.ses    Mliioli   (litcrniinc  tlio 


Srvi-rii y  111"  an  An-tii' Cliniali'  Insular  ami  Cuntincntal  I'u^itinn— Currcnls — 
Wituls— llxtrmn  s  of  Col. I  olisirvid  hy  Sir  H.  IJilclicr  ami  Dr.  Kani'— How  is 
Man  aMc  to  suiniort  tiir  Ki^ours  of  an  Ar>'tic  Winter?  I'ronfs  of  u  niikli-r 
t'liniato  liaviin;  oni'i'  rciirncil  in  tlui  Arctii.'  Kc^ions — Its  Causo  arconlinL'  to 
l»i'.('-\\alil  Hi'i'r — IV'culiai' 15oauti('M)f  the  Arrtii'  lu'i^i'ins— Siinsi't — L«ii^'  Lunar 
.Nij,'lils  — Tin' AnroiM         ...  ...         Pag.' :i 


(TiAi'ri:i;  ii 


Ai!<  111'  i..\M>  i,ir.\i'i;ri'i;ii>  .wm  i;ii;ii.>. 

TIr'  Hi'in>IiH'r— Struct uri'  of  its  I''uol — Clattirin^  Noise  wliuii  Walking — ^XntliTs — 
Mxiraonlinary  Olfai'ti^ry  I'owi'rs — The  loilandiL-  ^loss—  I'rcsfnl  aiul  fornu  i* 
IJan;:!'  of  tlu"  Utimln'r — Its  invaluaMi'  Qualititsi  ns  an  Ari'tic  ilonustii-  Anini.il 
--luvolts    aL'ainsi    Opjiression— Knemii's    of  tin*   Hcindcer— Thr    Wolf— Tlio 

(Jlutloii  or  AVolveriiU'— Gad-fliis — The  Kl!;  or  Moose  Deer — The  Musk  ().\ 

Till' Wild   Shei'j)   of  the   Hoeky  .Mountains— The  Silieriaii    Alkali-    The  .\ relic 
\-\<x     Its   lUirrows-The  Liinniings — Their    .M. -rations  and  Kiiemie.s    Arelie 

Aiiatida'  — Till'  Snow    I'untiny  —  'l"!ie    I.a|iland    15unliiig— The    Sea    Kaiile 

llrowni'd  I'V  a  I)ol]ihin   ......  ...  17 


VI 11 


CONTEXTS. 


CITAPTKR  JIT. 


Tlir:    ARCTIC    SEAS. 


Diiiigors  ppculiiir  to  the  Arctic  Spii---I('o-fi('MH — ITnmmockH — Collision  of  Ice 
fields — Icc-ltcr^s— Tlicir  Oriijiii- Their  Size  — Tiie  (ilaciiTM  which  ^'ive  liiciii 
JJirlh — Their  l»cauly — .'^onietiiucs useful  Auxiliaries  to  the  Mariner — Dangei-si.i 
Auchorinp;  to  ii  I'crg— A  crumlding  IJcrg — The  Ice-Mink— Fogs— Transparency 
of  the  Atmosphere — I'lienonuiui  of  luflection  anil  Kefraction — Causes  whii'li 
prevent  the  Accumulation  of  Polar  Ico— Tides  —CurrenLs — Ice  a  bad  Comluctor 
ofJIeat — Wise  Provisions  of  Nature      ......         Page 'JH 


CllArTKR  IV. 
AKCTic  marim:  animals. 

Populousncss   of   tlio  Arctic    Se.'is — The  <ir(enl;in<l   Wlialc  — TIio  Fin  AVhalc-- 
The  Narwhal  -Tiio  Peluga,  (U- White  Dolphin— Tiie  lllack  Dolphin —His  whoh- 
salc  Massacre  on  the  I''aeroe  Islands — Tlie  Ore  or  Or.'impns     The  Seals — Tin- 
Walrus — Its  acute  Smell — History  of  ayouui;  Walrus —  Parental  AtVection — Tlh 
Polar  I5ear — His  S;«gjicity — Iliberniition  of  llie  She-Hear — Sea  P»irds  ,     -lu 


CHAPTKR  V. 

K  KI.ANK. 

Volcanic  Origin  of  the  Isliuul — The  Klofa  Jokull-  T.ava  Streams — The  Puniin;: 
Mountains  of  Krisuvik — The  Mud  Caldrons  of  Keykjahlid  -Tiie  T\inLro-hver  :it 
Iveykliolt  —The Great  fJeysir— The  Strokkr— Crystal  Pools  -The  Alniannagja  — 
The  Surts  h.llir— Beautiful  lee-cave  -  The  Gotlia  Foss— The  iVtti  Foss— Cli- 
mate— Vegetation — Cattle  Parharous  Jtode  of  Sheep-shearing  Reindeer  — 
J'olar  Pears — Pirds— The  Eider-duck — Videy  -Vigr -The  Wild  Swan— The 
liavcn — Tlie  Jerfalcon— The  Giant  Auk  or  Geirfugl — Fish — l''isliing  Sea«o\i  — 
'J'he  White  Sh.'trk—Miiii'ral  Kingdom— Suljihur— Peat     Drift  Wood  .     jc 


CHAPTFU  VI. 


TITSTORY   OF    ICf.l.AVP. 


Discover}-  of  the  Island  by  Nadilodr  in  861 — Giirdar — Floki  of  the  Parens — Ingolfr 
and  Leif— I'llliot  the  Lawgiver — The  Althing —Thiugvalla -Introduction  et 
Christianity  into  the  Island — Frederick  the  Saxon  and  Thorwald  the  Traveller 
— Thangbrand— Golden  AiXi^  of  Icelandic  liiterature — Snorri  Slurleson  — Thf 
IslaTid  sulimits  to  Hakon,  Kinir  of  Norway,  in  12>)1  —Long  Series  of  Cal;imilii- 
— Great  l-'rujition  of  the  Skapta  iTiiknll  in  ITSTs -Commercial  Monopoly  - 
Pefter  Times  in  jirospect  ..........     7:! 


rOXTKXTS. 


IX 


(  lI.\rTF-R  VII. 


iion  of  It'''- 
1  ffivi'  llu'iii 
— DangcTfiiil 
ranf^part'iuv 
uu(-i'^  wliii'li 
d  Coiitluotor 
Pagf  'Jli 


Tfir    icKi.AxnKns. 

t^kalliolt — Rrykjavik— T.'io  I'air — Tlio  Poat^aiit  niul  tlio  Metvliaiif — A  f'lurpfynian 
in  hi-i  Tnjis — Hay-makinsr — Tlio  IcclandiT's  Hut — ClmrclKs — I'ovcrty  of  tlic 
('|,.,.jry_-J,;n  Tlmrlakson  -The  Si'iniuary  of  IJcykjavik — 15riKfii'i;!l  Influence  of 
tlif  Cli'rpry  — Uonii'  lvlucati(Mi— The  Icelander's  Winter's  Evening — Taste  fur 
liiterature— 'J'lii'  Lani,ninL'"  -  'J'lie  Pulilie  Li1irary.it  Ixeykjavik— The  leelnndif 
Literary  .Society — Icelamlic  NewKpapers— Jjoiifrevity — Leprosy — Travel linjr  in 
Iceland — Fordinc  the  Pivers— Crossinp  of  the  Skeidara  by  Mr.  Holland — A 
Nidit'-;  liivonae Page  8.') 


Ill  Wliales  — 
.-  Ilis  whoh- 
.  Seals— Til.' 
Tection— The 
Is  .      Ill 


il'lie  Puniiiiir 

un;.'o-hver  at 

niaiinaiija  — 

i  l-'i)ss— C'li- 

Reindeer  — 

Swan — Til'' 

llg   Seas(i\i  — 

d  .     iJi' 


Ins — liipfnlfr 
Induction  et 
Traveller 

lleson  — Till' 
I  Calamitii'- 

klonopoly  - 


niAPTHU  viri. 

Tin:  wi'STM.w  isi,.\Nn,«. 

The  \\'e>itmans— Their  extreme  Diffii-ully  of  Access     IIow  they  hceame  peopled 

—  lleiniaey  — Kaufstathir   and  (Haiihyte     Sheep   Hoisting— .I'^gg   Gathenng — 
I>i'radful    Mortality  among    tlie    Cliildren  -   The  Oinkluti — Gentleman    John 

—  Tile  Algerian  Pirates  -  Dreadful  Sufferings  of  the  Islanders  .         ,         .     103 


("HAPTKH  IX. 

1  uoM  nnoxTiiEiM  TO  Tin:  n<'>I!TH  cwk. 

IVIild  Climate  of  the  Norwegian  Coa.st — Its  Causes  -  The  Norwegian  Peasant  - 
Norwegian  Constitution-  Homanlic  Coast  Scenery-  I'rontheim  -  (iieitliiil'eld 
—  Holme  and  Vitre — The  Sea-F.agh — -The  Herring  I'isheries— Tlie  Lofuii'ii 
Islands  —The  Cod  Fisheries — Wretched  Condition  of  the  Fi.shermen  Tnjmsc'i  — 
Aheiifiord — The  Copper  Mines -H.immerfest  the  most  Northern  Town  in  the 
World  "The  North  Cape lOi) 


(11  Al'Tlli;  X. 
SITTZIU-IMKN'— 1!I:A1;    1SI..\NI) — .1.\\    .MKYKV. 

The  West  Coast  of  Spitzhergen — Ascension  of  a  Mountain  hy  Dr.  Scoreshy-IIis 
lAeiu'sion  along  the  Coast — .\  stranded  Whale  — .M.'igdaleiia  I'ay  -  .Multitudr^;  of 
Se.i-hirds  — .\nimal  Life — Miilniirht  Silence-  Glaciers— A  danererous  Nei^'hlMjur- 
Imod  — Interior  Plateau  -l''lora  of  Spitzhergen— lis  Similarity  witli  that  of  the 
-Mjis  ahove  the  Snow-line — liein(h'er  -The  hyperhorean  Ptarmigan-  Fishes  — 
Colli  -Priflwood  -Discovery  (jf  Spitzhergen  liy  Harentz,  Heeniskerk,  and  Kyp 
—  l'>rilliant  Period  of  the  Whale-fishery — Collins  Fight  I'^iglish  Sailors  winter 
in  Spitzhergen,  1GI50 —Melancholy  Death  of  some  Dutch  Volunteers — Russian 
Hunters — Their  Mode  of  Wintering  in  Sj>itzliergen  —  Scharostin  —  Walrus  Ships 
from  Hamrnerfest  and  Tromsii — Hear  or  Cherie  Island — Rennet  — Flnoriiious 
{  Sl.iughtcr  of  Walruses— Mildness  of  its  Climate — Mount  Misery — Adventurous 
■    i'lo.it  Voyage  of  some  Norwegian  Sailors --.T;in  Meyer— Reercnlierg  .         .     122 


x 


CdXTHNTS. 


CITAI'THI!    XI, 
\  M\   \  V.\      /  I;  M  I,  Y  A, 

T'l.'  Sci  Mt'  KaiM  -  I/isolikiii  -Kipsiiivsslow — Liitke — Kroluw  I'liclitussow — Sail» 
.iloii!,'  I  111;  Hiistoi'ii  CuMst  of  the  iSuiitliern  l>liiiul  to  .Matosi'likiii  Schnv — III- 
Scouiul  \'o_vage  ami  J)i'atli  —  .Metoorologieal  OKsiTvatiuiiw  of  Ziwolka  Tho  Oulil 
SiiiiiiiiiT  of  Xiivava  /.ciiilyii — Von  liaor';-;  scientific  Vuyaj^e  to  Xovaya  /t'liily;; 
—  His  Advcntuivs  in  3Iatoselikin  Si-luir-  Stoi'm  in  Kot^tin  Siliar— Hea  JJat!: 
.111(1  Witivn  (.'I'oss  -I'otaniL'al  Observations — A  natural  Garden — Solitude  umi 
Silence  -  A  liir.l-IIazaar  llnnlin;.'  I'.Npediiions  of  the  Kussians  to  Novav.i 
/ciiil\a    ............     Pace  1  l^ 


I'll.MTKi;    Xll. 

I  111;  I. API'S. 

'J'heir  ancient  History  and  Cunveision  to  ('iiri.>?tiaiiily—  Self-denial  and  Poverty  i.: 
the  Lajjiainl  (.'lerjiy  -Their  sinrruhir  Mode  of  Preaching-  (.Jro-ss  Suiierslitiui. 
of  the  J.ajips — Tiic  Kvil  Spirit  of  llu*  AVo(jds— The  Lapland  Witches — Physical 
(,V)nstitution  (jf  llie  Lap{)s— Tlu'ir  Dress — The  I'jiilllappars — Their  Dwellings  — 
■ton;  Houses  -  lu'indeer  Pens  -Milking  the  Keindcer — .Mignitiinia  -  The  Laj- 
land  Dog- Skiders,  or  Skates — The  Sledge,  or  Pulka--X;itural  JJeautios  of  Lap- 
land— Attachment  of  the  Lapps  to  tiieir  Country — Hear  ILmting  — W(jlf  Hniitii.g 
— Mode  of  Living  of  tlu'  wcaltliy  Laj'ps— How  they  kill  the  ]{i  in.lrer — Visit- 
ing the  Fair— Mammon  Worship — Treasure  Hiding — "Tabak,  or  Hraende"— 
Affoctionale  iyisj)usition  of  the  Lapps  — The  Skogslapp— The  Fisherlapp   .     l.'il 


A  .S 
IMI. 

uiicieii 


m 


Wli.it  is  t 
M-liii'ii 

Til.   I 


C"\'jn;-i 
Iv.in  tlie  7' 

\\nu-  to  .' 

.siansto  ( 
Kii<si;in 

I'miitsrhi 
.■scli.iLiiii'i 

liiicliow   1 

I'asf  Agrx 


ClIAl'I'lCK    XIII. 


.MAIIIIIAS    Al.i;\ANI)i:i;    rAslKLX. 


His  llirtliplace  ami  first  Studies —Journey  in  Lapland,  1N38 — The  Iwalojoki— 
The  liake  of  iMiara — The  Pastor  of  I'tzjoki — Prom  ]{o\\anienii  to  Keini— Se- 
cond \'oyage,  1811-41 — Storm  on  the  AVhito  Si'a — luturn  to  Archangel— Tin 
Tundras  of  the  European  S.imojedes — Mescn — Univtrsal  Drunkenness — Sleil-' 
Journey  to  Pustosersk  A  Samojede  Teacher — Tundra  ."^torms — AliaiiiloiH  : 
and  alone  in  the  Wilderness — Pustosersk — Our  Trivveller's  Persecutions  a: 
Ustsylmsk  and  L»hemsk — The  I'tisa — Cros.sing  the  Ural — Obdorsk— Seiin! 
Silurian  Journey,  1S1.')-18 — Overllowing  of  tiie  Obi— Surgut — Krasnojai-k 
—Agreeable  Surprise — Turuehausk — Voyage  down  the  Jenissei— Castrcii- 
Study  at  J'hu'hina — Prom  Dudinka  to  Tolstoi  Xoss — Frozen  Feet — Itetun. 
Voyage  to  the  South — Frozen  fast  on  thf  Jeiiissci  Wonderful  Preservation- 
Jo i!  'uey  across  tlio  Chinese  Frontiers,  and  to  Trausl.aikaliu — Peturn  to  Finlaii'i 
— Professors^hip  at  Hclsingfors— Death  of  Castrcn.  IS.").")  .         .         .         .17! 


Sibi  i'la  —  ft^ 

Iln|,,_T(l|lk 
Heal  :u\.\  ( 
\\V;,/,.l   --'J 

itiLT  Ilare- 
f'f  the   Pu- 
—  Hxiicn-e 
■"eilnnnoiis 

■']"ir-r    IiIm., 
,^Ni-lmc-TaL 

■I 


CHAPTKK    XIV, 


r  n  i;    s  A  M  I)  ,1  i;  i>  \:  s. 


Their  Harbarisin— Num.  or  Jiiibeambaert  je — Shamunism  -Samojede  Llols  -  Sj,; 
diei  -Halie — The    Tadebtsios,  or    Spiribs — The   Tadibes,    or  .Sorcerers  — The: 


what  Pur 
ulti.'S  and 
;l?fiii'm  en  'I 
f .  l..i:.-S,, 
iiind 


'^, 


C<».\TK.NTS. 


M 


ow— SuiU 
^har — Hi« 

-Tho  CjM 
;i  Zeiulyii 
-Hen  r>at!; 
litudf  au'i 
0  Novav:i 
PllilO  11'' 


[)i-,.s>--Tlioir  Invocations — Tin  ir cuiijurinfr  Tricl-'^  —  Hovrrrnrr'paid  to  tlio  Pciid 

A  SiiiiKpjrdo  Oath    -Appcaraiu-f  of  ilii'  Samojcilos — Tliiir  Dress- A  Saniojnlc 

P.iHo  -Cliarai'ti  r  ot'  tlip  Samojodos     Tlirir  dcfreasiiii:  NumljorH — Traditions  of 

i.noiciit.  llfToos Pafri'  1S7 

ClIAl'TKI^    XV. 
im:  iisi.i.\K>. 

\Vli;it  is  tilt"  Olii?     Inundations  -  An  Ovtjak  Sunimrr  Jurt  — Povrrty  of  tlio  Ostjak 

lM>hirnii  n  -A  AVi  liter  Jurt      Altaclmi'nt  of  the  Ostjaks  to  their  ancient  ("us- 

imiis     An  I'vtjak  I'riiie( — Ai'cliery — Ajipearance  and  Character  of  tin'Osijaks 

Til.   I'air  ol'Olr.lui^k I'.KJ 


I'oViTly  ' ; 
suiierstitioii 
i— Piiysical 
Jwelliuf^s- 
-  The  Lai- 
ties of  Lap- 
olf  Iluntiii.' 
Jeer— Vi^ii- 
l>racndu  "— 
app    .     I''' 


Ihvalojoki— 

]\enii—  •'^L- 
laii{^el  — Tl;i 
loss-Si.'.!^' 

■Al'aiidoiii'; 

'cutiuiis    ;i'. 

^sk—  Secoi"! 

[vrasiiojai'-i; 
Ca.^lrc'.i- 

[rt— Retiiri. 

(fiervatioii 
to  Fililaiii 


V  cifAPrK!;  xvr. 

t'MN.jn:-!   nr  >ii;i:i;i.\  \.\   mi:  i.m'.-sians  —  riinii;  viiva(,i;>  of  ulxtivkuy 
Ai.uNi;  nil:  ^iiiii;i:s  (n-   tiii:  ioi.ai;  f<i:A. 

Ivan  tho  Terril>l( — Strogonoff— Ymnak  tlio  Rol)!>or  and  Conqueror — His  Expodi- 
lioiis  to  Silicvia — llattle  of  Tol'olsk — Verniak's  Death— Prorrress  of  the  Rus- 
sians to  Ochotsk  -Seniei)  Deshnew  -  Condition  of  theSilierian  Natives  under  tho 
Ii'iw'-ian  Yoke  Voyaircs  of  !ii>c(ivrry  in  the  Piiirii  of  llie  Ijiipress  Anna  — 
i'nmtsi-hi-clit.-.'liow- Chariton  and  Demetrius  Lajitiw — An  arctic  Heroine  — 
Schalanrow  —  I>i^coveriis  in  tlio  Si-a  of  P>clirinpr  and  in  tho  Pacific  Ocean — The 
Liichow  Island-  -i''ossil  Ivory  -N'W  SiKi-ria — Tho  Wooden  Mountains — 'J'he 
iMst  Ami- of  Sil.rria  .  20.') 


cuAPTi;i;  XVII. 

.-II'.KK'IA — Kli;   ri.'AI'i:    AM>   (iuLli-niiiciXi; 


.d(ds  -S'l 

I'crs  -  Till' 


■1 
1 

SiliiM.i — It-  ininieii^.'  Ivxtcnl  and  Capal'ilities  —  'i'lie  l-Xiles  —  Mentschikoff— 
Iiojoixroiiky  Miiiiich— Till- Criminal- -  Tin ■  free  ."^ilieri.in  Prasant-  Fxtreinisof 
IlesU  and  Cold  — Fnr-liearing  Animals  — The  Sahle — Thf  Krniino — The  Sil.rrian 
\V,a/rl  -■{■he  S-a  Otter-  ThcT.lack  I'ox  -  The  Lynx  Th.^  Squirrel  'I'lir  \'ary- 
iiiLf  Hare  The  Suslik- -Iniimrtance  of  ihu  Fur  Trade  tor  the  Northern  Provinees 
of  the  Russian  l-aiipiiv  -  The  (iold  DiirL'intrs  of  l-/istorn  Siberia -Tho  'J'aiiia 
'—  Hxpen-es  an<l  Dilhoultics  of  Sta.rchinp;  l^siirdiiimis  Cu-t  (.f  I'roduco  and 
t  li'ir-iiMii-  Profits  of  successful  Speculators  -Their  Muscless  lvxtravaL''anc( — 
]'ii-i  Ili-covi'i'v  of  Hold  in  the  I'ral  Mountains — fakowlew  and  Memidnw — 
'>  -huc-Tauil-k  ...     'JUS 


(.IIAI'IKK    XVIIl. 
MI|i|>1.Mhi|;ii  ',-    AhVr.Mll.T.s    IV     I  Al  M  I   l;l.A\  |i, 

For'.vl.it  I'ari.o-,' %va--  Middriidorir-  \"oya^n  to  ■i",-i:niur!,ind  undertaken?-  Dif1i- 
ciiI'i->.  mikI  ( )I.-taeI(  s  I-'xpeditioii  down  the  Taitnur  Fiver  to  the  Polar  Si'.a — 
_Pt.inu  on  Tainiur  Fake-  Loss  of  tho  i>oai  —  MiddendorflT  ill  and  alone  in  7o^ 
K.  I.ai, — Saved  l»y  a  |.a'ateful  Saniojede-  Climate  and  Vepitation  of  Taininr- 
lii'l '^tO 


Xll 


CONTENTS. 


CHAl'TEK   MX. 


IJIK    JAKl  IS. 


Tli''ir  fncr^ctio  Niitioiialitv — 'I'hcir  Dcscfiit-  'I'lieir  gluoiny  Charaetcr— iSiiiiiiinr 
ami  NVinti.T  Dwilliiifis  -  The  Jakut  Jlorwu  -  Iiut  v4i.'j1o  Powors  o(  luuliirancL'  n: 
l.lio  .Jakiits--'J'lifir  Sharjiiicss  of  VisiDii — Surprising  local  Memory — Tluir 
manual  Dexterity  Jieatlier,  I'oniarils,  Carpet.s  -  Jakul  (ilultmis— Superstitirjth 
l*'ear  of  the  ^rotuilaiii  Spirit  Ljc-chei — Offerin^.s  uf  Ilurse-hair — Jiiipruvi.-ud 
Songs — Tile  liiver  Jakut  ........     Page  2.j:' 


(JH.VPTHR    X.\'. 

\\i!AX()i:r-. 

Ilif*  dihtinguisli'.J  Services  as  an  Aretie  l^xplorer — Fnaii  Petersburg  to  Jakui.-k 
in  l«2(t— Trade  of  Jivkut.sk— From  Jakutsk  to  Nislmo  Kolyni^k— The  liaila 
rany — Dreadful  Climate  of  Ni.slmo  Kolymsk — Summer  Phmues — Vegetation- 
Aiiimal  Life — Reindeer  Hunting — Famine — Inuiuiations--Tlie  Siberian  Dn^'- 
Fir.st  Journey.s  over  tlic  Ico  of  the  Polar  Sea,  and  Exploration  of  tho  Cuii- 
beyond  Cape  Shelagskoi  in  I82I — Dreadful  Dangers  and  Hardships — Matiusc!:- 
kin's  Sledge  Journey  over  the  Polar  Sea  in  IS'J'J — Last  Adventures  on  tho  Pol.i: 
Sea — A  Kun  for  Life— Ketuni  to  St.  Peter,sljurg 2')v 

CHAPTHU   XXJ. 

Tin;  Tixuusr, 

'J'heir  Relationship  to  the  Mandsehu-  Dnadful  Conditiiju  of  the  Outcast  Xoiii.i: 
—  Ciiaracler    of   the    Tungusi— Their   Outfit    for    tho    Cha^e  — I'xar   lluntiiii.' 
Dwellings — Diet  -  A  Nighl'.'i  Halt  witli  Tur.gusi  iu  the  Forest — Ochotsk    .     l!; 


I'HAl'TKR   XXIL 

tilOOKill':    WlLl.lA.M    STKLLEH. 

His  Birth— Enters  the  Russian  Service — Scientific  Journey  to  Kamtschatka    .V 
companies    IJehring  on   his  Seeoml  Voyage  of  DiHCovery — Lands  on  tlie  DIn' 
of    i\aiak  -Sliameful    Coiuhut    of    iJeliring— Shipwreck   on    lichriug    Jshiml- 
iJeiiriiig".'^  Death — Return  to  Kamtschatka — L(;ss  of  Property — Persecutieii> 
the  Siberian  Authorities— Frozen  to  Death  at  Tjnnieii       ....    'd>. 


CHAPTER   XXllI. 


Tile    I., 
T)     — ]',• 
lo    JiiuceH 
•ji'   or  S^'i 

Bell  ring 
IJelirii 

--Tlie 
Cll.lsili 

It 


ijlleil'       \vi( 

■A  -M'l'-ar, 
lajAj.parai 

ee  —'Hie 

-Variu 
Hiiiiiiii^ 

•iallles  ,1 

liiirliuk- 
of  J»istc£ 


thi    Cuiirei 
-  I'll!'  Ti\u 

,    befW,.,  11    ) 

-   Their 

./•Jlii'Non's 

,,01   ill,.  Ci 

,  JJi'Muii  j;, 

I,,.  I'iiie  .Marl 

{8|ll.:ll     I'isl, 

.  I.yiix  ,,[■  i^ 


K.\Mi.S(.ll.\lKA. 

Climate — Fertility-  - Lu.xuriant  Vegetation — Fish  Sea  liirds — Kamt.schatkan  Bi^ 
catchers — TIu^  Ray  of  Av.atscha — Petropaulow.sk — The  Kamt.sch.itkans — Tl/ 
jijiysical  and  moral  Qualities — The  Fritillaria  surrana — The  Mucluinior — ]h\' 
—  Dogs :' 


v.iriiiiis  ■ 

ars  with 

for  111,  ji-  ( ■ 

^''■'■^-Th, 


'^f 


-R 


COxNTKNTi?. 


X)ll 


mlurance  c! 
uory— Tluir 
■luiierstitiou- 
-lini)ruviM': 


•g  to  Jakul^k 
:_Tho  IJa.lii- 
-Vi'gi'tation- 
iljcriiin  l)<>'i- 
of  the  Cull'- 
j,s—M:itiuxch- 
■s  on  tho  Pol;,: 


ill-  lluiitiiii; 
.•liutsli    .     - 


CHAPTER   XXIV. 
iiiK  Tcmn.'iii. 


Tlir  Laii'l  o,"  the  'IVlmi.hi — Tluir  iiulijiciuk'iit  Si'irit  ami  comnuTcial  Entci'iiriso 

..j  _p,.q'.iu;il  Mitrrutioiis — Tlir  ]''air  of  Ostrowmijc    -Visit  in  a  Tuluiti'li    Polo;? — 

to  Jiiiits— TiliuU-!i  JKijadeivs— Tiif  Ti'iiiiVLrk  or  JU'iiidc  it  T^liuti'lii— Tin-  (>iikil<iii 

•j'u   or  SciUnitarv  Tolmtchi— Their  M  iilo  o:' LilV' Pago  208 

All 

•).'. 
-I 


i;i;iii;iNi 


CIIAPTHU   XXV. 

SKA --Tin:    KISSIAN    l-l'K    rdMl'AW — TlIK    A!,i:i"-TS. 


Biiiiini,' Sea  -  liialasrhka  -Tin'  PriMlow  l.-laudb -St.  Matthew- St.  Laurcia'.' — 
lirhrinu""-  Straits  -Tlio  Russiau  J'"ur  Conn'any — Tho  Alciits  Their  Charaeter 
-  -TIk  ir  Skill  ami  Iiitre['i(lity  in  iruutinif  the  Sea  Otter— The  Sea  IJear — AVhalo 
riiasiii''-  Walrus  Slaut'htir — The  Sea  Lion       ......     30G 


At. 


itseluitka     A 
i  on  the  l^lii! 
rinj;    Islar.'l- 
\'rseeuti(in> 


Lehatkan  r>i 
■latkans — Tl 
i'hanior — I'" 


CllAPTKU   XXVI. 
riii;  K.si^LiMAi'X. 

.Tii'ir    wide    Kxtension  -  (Miniate    of   tho    Refiious   they    inhahil — Their    i>!iy!-ieai 

.4  ,\i.iiearanoe — Their  Dro.s— Snow  Huts — The  Ivayak  or  tho   IJaidar — Hniitin;^ 

^j,  Ai'i'aratiis  and  ^^'oa|'■lns  —  Enmity  lietween  the  Es(iuiinaux  and  the  Red  Indian:! 

,.,-,  -    The  'JJloody  FalU'-Cliase  ot'the  Eeindo'-r — IJird  Catehini,' -  Whale  Iluntin;; 

—Various   Strala^'eins  em[d<iycd   to  eateh   the   Se.il — The  Keep  Kultuk — Jlear 

Hunting  -Walrus    Hunting — Aw.dvlok    and    .Myouk — 'J"ho    l']s(juimaux    l)(ig — 

(1  iiiiri  a;id  Spurts    -Anuekoks— Moral  Charaeler— Selt'-relianee—  Inlelligenoi — ■ 

r,-liuk— ("ommereial   i'^agerne^s  of   the   I'lsiiuiinaux  —  Th<  ir  Voraeity — Seasons 

of  J)i.Ttress  317 

CHAPTE]{   XXNll. 

TiiK  fii;   ri;Ai>t:  of  thk  ihi'shn's  iiay   tkimmioimk:^. 

The   ('in;rrur  (lis    IJois — Tho  Voyngeur — The   IJireh-hark   Canoe — The   Canadian 

,  I'ur  Trade   in   tho  hisl    Cent ui'y— The   Hud^on's  Ray  Company — Rloody  Feuds 

litwecntho  Xorth-AVest  t'ompany  of  Canada  and  the  Hudson's  Ray  Contpany 

-    Tluir   Amalgamation   into  a  New  Company  in    1S21      iucunstruetinn   i,f  tho 

jJiuiUon's  Ray  Company  in  1863  -  i'orts  or  Hou.-es    The  Attihawmog — Inlluenee^ 

sj^.of  ilie  Company  on   its  SavaLic   Dependents     The  Rlaok    I'-.aror  Rarilial — 'i  ho 

;il!i''i\vii    Rial'     The   <iri.-'ly    Rear  -  'i'he    Raennn — 'i'lie    Ainen.an    (lluUiin — 'I'lie 

■^^j  I'i lie  .Marten     The  i'ekan  or  Woodshoek    -The  ChiiiLja     'I'lie  Mink     TlieCana- 

(g<li;iii    IVh-otler — I'ho  CiMs.-.-d  l'u\ — '1  he   Rlaok  or  Sihery  I'ux     'I'hr  (.'aiiadian 

.  I.yux  III  Pisliu  -  T'he  Joe  H  ire  —The  Reaver— The  Musquash    .         .         .     lioH 

CHAPTER   XXVIII. 
nit-:  t'UKt:  in.iians,  (u;  KvriiiNvruiK. 

various  Tril.'es  uf  the  Crees-  'I'heir  Con<|Ue.sts  and  Mil  soiiueiit  Defeat — Their 
I'ars  with  ihe  Rlaekt\et — Their  Charaeter  Tattooing — Their  Dresh — Eondm  ss 
■r  ill' ir  Childr.  n  The  (,'n  e  Cradle— Wipnur  Jiaths  -  flames — Their  religious 
ill  a.-— The  Cn  e  Tiutarus  and  l-^lvsiu!ii    ..,.,..     iiod 


XIV 


(OXTHMS. 


rUAF'THR  XXIX. 
'I'  ir  i:    T  I  x  \  V,    I  X  HI  AXP. 

Tlio  V.'irious  Trilios  of  llif  Ti'iuk''  Imlinns — Tlie  Dog  Kibs— Cli.tliiii:.'- Tlic  Hiir. 
Indiiins  -  I>f'fir;i(lf(l  Siafc  of  the  Wi.inon  — Prin^ticil  Soriali^i^  Cliararlfv - 
C'riU'lty  to  tile  Aged  ami  Iiilinu         .......     I'agL'  ;}i;i 


nn.|  Ke 
-  Iloaf 
•3lav-.s' 

>-  i;-a,i 


CIIArTKR    XXX. 

Tin;  T.orruKrx,  oi;  Knnnx  ixkiax.^. 

Tho  Countries  tlicy  iiilia!iif~-Tlipir  Appoiiranco  ami  l)r('sfi — Their  f/ivi'  of   l-'iii'V^ 
— Condilinii    of   ilic    Woincn     Siratif^o    Customs -C'liaractor — l''i  u  I-    wiili    li; 
Esquimaux -Tliiir  sus]iii'ious  ami  timorous  liivrs — I'ouuds  foi- ciiirliinp;  !;■  ii;- 
(leer — Tiu'ir  Lodgis :;;' 

CHAITKi;   XXXT. 

AIM'ITC    V(iV\(li:S    (iK    MSi(tVKi;V    FIJOM    Till:    rAI'.iiTS    Ti  •    IIMTIX. 

TIio   I'irst  Sc;miliiiavian  Disrovrrcrs  of  America     Tlie  Cal.nis — \Vill'.n_.!il.y  ,i': 
Cliauecilor  ( 1. ■).■>:; -!.')■')  I)— '••tcjilieu  IJurroupIi  ( 1  "i.jd)     Fml.islier  (  I  .")7ii   l»7s 
Davis  ( l.')S')-l.")S7) — Hareiii.:.  Coruelis,    ami    iSranI    (1.V.11)  -AVinieriiiL'  of  tli 
l)utel\    Navi;:ators  in  Novaya  /emlya  (l.')!)()-l,V,)7)  ~  .Ii'lui  KniLrlit   UloC.) — y\w- 
(Icrod  by  tlio  Ks,,uiniaux--lli  ury  Hudson  (l()07-lGiia)— Haffin  (IGIH)       .     ;;;; 

CFTAPTKK    XXXII. 

ARCTIC  vovA(;i:s  or  imsi  (i\  ki;v,   it;om   r.Arnx   im  :\i'(  i.ixtoik. 

Uuchan  ami  Franklin — Ross  and  Parry  (ISIS) — T)ispor(ry  of  ^Melville  Island - 
Wintor    Harbour    (ISIO- 1  S'id)  -  Frauklin's    Fir^t    Laml    .bMirnoy— I)re,■i^• 
Suf1erin^■s— Parry's    Second     Voyasio     (1821-1  S'JI^V-Iliiiiiuk— Lyon     (IS'_M' 
Parry's  Third  Voyatje  (18l2  IV    I'raukliM's  Serond  Land   .ruurncy  to   tlio  '>\v-\- ■ 
of   the   Polar  Sea — I'eeehey — Parrv's    SIcdf,'e    Journey  towards    tln'   Pole     «■ 
John   Koss's  Second  ,Iourn(y — Five  Years   in    the   Arctic  Oeean-lllaek's  h- 
oovery  of  llie  (freat   Fish    River -Doase  ,ind  Simpson  ( I837-IS30)     I'rank! 
and    Croziir's     last  Voya;re    i  IS  |.'))— Searchinp:    Expeditions — Picliardsou    r 
TJae— Sir  James  Ross   -Austin- IViniy- Do   Haven— Franklin's    I'ir^t  "Wii;' 
(Quarters   discovered   by    Ommauey-  Kennedy  and   Pellot  -Jnplefield     Sir   ' 

Belcher— Kelletl—:>I-( 'lure's  Di.-eovery  of  the   North-West  Passap-e Colliii- 

-^Bollot's  Death— I'r.  Rae  learns  the  Death  of  the  Crews  of  the  '  Krebu- ' 
'Terror' — Sir  Leopold  .M'Clintoek    ,........- 


Ifal  •'.  -olafe 

«-    >rVrril 

Oiii.iv  iails 

pi  :'.illee 

Tiii'Mafcrs, 

d'eiiiiiir 


A4Siy>ti'ri(ius 
Tans  L^r,.,] 

fi-" ionarie 
^  •Ircnlai 
'^The  \,,r\ 

Esquimaux 


(ITAPTKK    XXXIIL 
KAM'    AXI>    IIAVKS. 

Kane  sails  up  Smith's  Sound  in  tlie  'Advant'e'  (IS.„'l) — 'Winti^rs  in  Ren--rl 
Pay  — Sledci'  J<mrney  along  the  Coast  of  (Irienland — Tlie  'I'hree  l!r"ii 
Turret.s — Tennyson's  .Monument — The  Great  Hnmbfddt  (ijacier — Dr.  Ihi} 
crosses  Kennerlv  Channel  — iNIort on"--  Di^eovi  rv  of  AVashington  Land — M^i:: 


CONTENTS. 


XV 


Tlw  llii" 

'harartcv  ■ 
I'a-.'  o'' 


,'   (if    I'iiirvv 
N    wlili    i:; 


I'lnv  -  Km  lie"-  vc<olvc'>  \\\<in\  a  Siooiid  Wiiiliriii^'  in  lu'iissrlun-  Day — Di'parturr 

fliid  llrtiirii  n{  I'art  >>t'  llio  Crew  -Sutrcring'*  of  tlu>  Winter — Tlic  Sliipaliamlnni'd 

:~    ll'iat   Joiirnry  to   l'|ioi'niivik —Kane's    Death   in    tlie  Ilavannali  (1H.)7) — Dr. 

'•3I:i,vr>'  \'i.ya;;i'  in  18(10     He  winters  at  I'urf  I'"uulkt — Crosses  Kennedy  Chfinnel 

-    iea.les   Cape   Union,   ilie   must    N'oi'tliern  known   l,and   npon  llio    (ilobe — • 

IviMewey  (1  SOS)— Plans  for  future  Voyrif^es  to  tli-'  North  I'ulo  .     Page  CJ.I 


CTIAPIKIJ  XXXIV. 
NKWKilNhl.AMi. 

Hi  i!r-'ilate  Asprot — Forests-  .Mar-Ins — liarriiis — Ponds — Fur-Fx^arinp  Animals 
•-Sr\rriiv  of  Climate — St.  John's  -  Disi'overy  of  Newfoundland  hy  the  Sean- 
din. iviiins  Sii-  liumpliriv  (iill.irt  —  Rivalry  of  the  Kurdish  and  I'reiieh  -Im- 
Borianee  of  ilii-  |''i-liiriis — 'I'lic  Hanks  of  Newt'oundlaiul — .Moilc  of  I'isliiiif^ — 
ilu'oalers.  Headers,  Splitters,  Sailers,  and  Paeker.s — Fogs  and  Storms — Seal 
•Jpatehiny 4:}9 


MTIN. 

lloiiLjllliy  all 
.")7(i-l'')"f^  - 

ii'i-in;.'  of  '1' 
iriKf.) — Mnr- 

;i('i)        .     o" 


NTOcK. 

ille   Islan!- 
iey-Dvea.:i 
•on     (ISLM' 
to   the  Sli'M" 

lie    Pulo-S 

F.laek's  H- 

i',V)     Fralll^■ 

lehardson  :v 

First  AV  i; 

•field-  Sir  ■ 

|rr,^    ..  CoUill- 

Krelm-'^- 


CHAITKU   XXXV. 


i.i;i:i;ni,am>. 


Ainy-terions  Txocioii — Aneiont  Scandinavian  Colonists — Their  Deelino  and  l-'all  - 
Jfian-  y.jvdi — Hi'-  Trials  and  Success  I'"oundation  of  Oodthaali — Herrenhutli 
iJi^-iiiiiariis — I.indenow — Thr  Seortshys — ClaverintT' — The  Danish  Si'ttlemcuts 
in  <  iri'ciiland  — The  Clrteidand  Ksquiniaux  -  Seal  Catehinfj; — The  White  Dolphin 
«»-Thc  Narwhal  Shark  l-'ishi'i'v — I'i-kerniisset  — Firils — Keinilecr  JIunting  -In- 
.j^g,  noiis  Plants — Drift -Wood — .Mimral  Kingdom — Modefjf  Lifeof  the  Grcenhind 
Esijuiinau.x — Th"  Danes  in  Greenland  —  Feautiful  Scenery — Ico  Caves        .     419 


PART   TL 
THE    ANTAJICTTC    RE(JIONS. 


CllAPTKK  XXXVi. 


.\NIAi;eTlC    (le'KAN. 


ill  Fen--i' 
[hrre  P.i-t' 
l_Dr.  Ihr 
|Land-M" 


Comi"  :;'iti\c  View  of  the  Antarctic  and  Arctic  Kegioiis— Inferiority' of  Cliniato 
of  ;': :!■  former — Its  Causes — The  New  Shetland  Islands- South  (Jcijrgia — The 
Pei'  em  stn  am— Sea-Lird'-;— TIf  <;iaut  Petrel— Tho  Albatross — The  Pengtiin 
—'I  Aii-tial  Whale — The  liunehl.ack— Tho  Fin-Ikek — Tho  Grampus — 
BbI-:-  wit!)  a  Whale— The  Sea-ihphanl— The  Southern  Sea-in'ar— The  Sea- 
leu;    id— .\i)tarctic  Fishes 4fi.-) 


•^ 


\V1 


roNTKNTS. 


<  IlAl'TKIi   X.WVII. 

AN  i.\i;i  TIC  V(iv.\(ii;s  fir   hi>((ivi:i;\. 

(/ook's    I)i'i('fivf'rii '■  in   th'    Aiitiintii'   Ore  ,111  -  licllin^hiinscii- WoMi  11  -  liiscor 
lliillniy      Pmnniit    ilTrvilli— Wilkis     Sir    .(miik -    IJosn  crds-rs   ih,.   Aiilar.t 
f'iri'lc  01    New  ^'car'.'"  Hay,  ISIl  —  niscuv.  i>  \'h>iMri,i  I.iinil-    I)i)imci'i'ii'<  r,!inilii. 
fin  l''riiikliii  i>laii(l— An  IliMii'tinu  of  .Mmiiit   Lriliii*  - 'I'lic  'Iriat    Icr   liarrii  •■— 
I'rovidi'iitial    I^scai'i — I)i'iaillul    (ialr — (.'(illision — Ilazanlous    I'as.-atio  liclw.. 
Tmu  IcrbtTi-'s — Tti'niiiiniion  111' tlio  VdvaiTi'        .....     Pair''  II 


(IlAlTKli    XX.WIll. 

■rin:  sTi;.\ri   ni-   .m.\i;i;i.i.a\. 

Df.-friiition  ofttio  Strait — Wcstorn  Kiitraiici — I'niiit  Diinixfiicss— Tlif  Xai-row- 
Saint  rhili|i's  lifiy — Capo  I'l'iiwanl — Oraii.l  Sccini'v  Tm-t  I'aniinc  Tin' Sr  !j 
]\ivfi- — I>ar\viii's  AM-cii-^icni  of  Blount  Tarn — 'I'lu^  llacliclur  Hivrr  I'liu'  ■ 
Ivrai-ll  —  Sea  Ixoacli  — Snnl  h  Itcsulai  i^n  —  llail'ijiir  of  Mcri'y  ^^'ilii^^■a\vs  ji 
covcry  of  the  Sirail  l.y  .Maijvllaii  (OctoLor  'J(i,  IVJI) — Prako — Sarniii  11' • 
("avcndisli  ~  Sclioutiii  and  Lr  ^lain- —  liyron -- lionpain^ilir  -  Wallis  1 
Carti'i'ot  —  F\inir  anil  l'"iizi'oy  ■  Sciilinii'nt  at  I'nnta  Arenas-- 1 nrrca^ing  l'a>~i. 
tlirougli  till' Si lait  — A  fntnrr  lli;jli\vay  of  (.'oinnuii'i.'  .         .         .         .     1 

ClIATTKR    XXXIX. 

rAiAiioNiA   \Mi  nii:  i'atamimans. 

l>iff('n'ncf' of  ("linnitf  bftwccn    i",ast  anil  West  I'atafronia- ivxtraordinary  Ariil; 
of  East  I'atagonia  - /ool,ii:y— 'i'lio   dnanai'o  -  Tho  TiU'iit-.K-o- TIjc  I'atair>>n: 
Agouti — ^'nltu^(-s — Tin'    'l"nrk(y-r>uz/anl     The    ('ai-ranoIia-TlK'    Cliinian::'- 
Darwiii's  0«trirh     'I'lir  I'aiaijonians — Exaggoratfil   Ai'ronnls  oi'  their  Statu"- 
Their    l'iiysio;_Mioniy  and    I>i'ess-  -Religions  Idra>— Sn|ierst  it  ioiis  -  As!  ronoiii' 
Knowledgi — l)ivi^il)n     into    'i'rilics     The    Tent    (ir    Toldo     Trading    ]{uut'-- 
The    (ireat    Caeiqui — Jntrodnctii'ii    of    the    Horse — Indnstry — Amusemeut>- 
Charaetcr         .        .         .         . in 

CIIAl'THR  XI-. 
T  II  F,    K  i:  1:  i;  1  A  \  >;. 

Tlioir  inisoraMo  Condition— Degradation  of   ilody  and  Mind — Powers  of  Mini:' 
— .Notions  of  liaiter-    ("anse- of  their  lov  Slate  of  Cnilivation  -Their  ]•''"■ 
Limpets  —  Cyltaria    Darwini     Constant    Miurations — 'J"he    Pnegian    AVigWiiii' 
Weapons — Their   probable   Origin  -Their   Nninber  and    various  Tribes-   ( 
slant  I'ends — Cannibalism— Language — Adventures  of  I'uegia   Jlasket,  .Ji 'i 
Button,   and    York    Minster — ^Missionary    Laboin'S — Captain    Gardiner  -i 
liimentable  Pnd         ............ 


.jH'i-k  Ox. 

^-I.::-  Ileal 

.•i^ivii.'  Jim 


m 


Ari'tIP   K'efrii 


•w 


1(11    -    liisOOc 
lllr     Alllai'rt 

rrniis  riiilulii . 
Iff  I'arrii '- 

Si-ago  liclw., 
.     Pairr  i: 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIOXS, 


'Ip'  \arVM\v- 
•     Til,.  S,  L' 

lliwaws  -I) 
— Sariiiit'iit'i  - 
-AVallis    a: 
■using  I'iis,-;.. 

.     4 


<'HKO.MOXYL()GKAPirs. 


^ivii.  li,,.  I  \T  "  I   ^^  i  tii'tafff  in  till 

"         ^*"   I       ■'>ay  Icn-itoriis 


■'^■iMd  aiul  Arctic  Fux 

niicI.son'.s 


21  S 

ai7 


338 


4 


I 

^ri'fic  Ri'giojis, 


M  A  P  S, 

^^.A/c.;,.,^..l,i.   j    Antarctic  I{egion« 


''"  face  2'age  624 


iinarv  Ai'ii!:  jt 

be  I'atai:.''ii:,  'H 

Cliiniaii-  - 
lifii'  8talu;'i  - 

-Astiviui'iiii  <^^n.\p 

iiifr    Itoiilt—  -"I 

Unusenn'iit."  -S 


WOODCUTS. 


I-   Arctic'  Forost  anfl  A 


PACK 

iirora         ;j 


CHAP. 


.  ''''"■ '"ireut  Snowy  Owl  in 

'1,    luin.lcer    Travelling    in 

La] 'land       ,         .  ,- 


PAliK 


Tho  Elk 

[III.    Vessel    lifted 


VI.   II.rd,.-Breid.  from  Krabla  "% 

VII     /';'^""S-'''i'«'Duck      .  84 
^11.    I  ho  Lava.fi..I,i  of  S„rt- 

Ilellir  .  .  . 


^V 


out    of  tl 


rs  of  ^lim: ' 
Their  F....:- 
n  AVigwiii;:- 
Tiil.es-t\: 
a^kft,  Jemr: 
iniiucr— -HI 


!• 


[■IV.   Wl 


it-r  l.y  To 
inlvick  Whal. 


I'llers  am 


The  C 


ong  TccImt^ 


framj)us 


V.   Oru>fa  Jokull,  from  J{ 


veil 


ir 


cyni- 


0 


'•'•'''^  •I''kull,  from   Pla- 
fcaii     above     K 
vellir   . 


iiajipa- 


Ent 


nince    to    the  .Second 

Portion  of  Snrts-Hellir 
The  Elder  Dtick 


28 


.39 
40 
40 


.10 


irZ 


.•>s 


The  Klafr 


The  G 


r-'at  Auk 


VIII.    IIver-Fjall 
The  Wi'ld  ri 


IX.  V 


fOOSO 


Islands 


II  —Eofot 


on 


The  O 


sprey 


X,    .Alagdalcna    T5av  — 


L 


.lergen 


^pitz- 


Tho  Pti 


li'nngan 


ore 


^I.   Abandoned  V 
Aretie  Sli 

The  Arctic  F 
^11.   I,apps  M( 

The  Glutton 


es8el 


on  an 


ox 
ng 


loo 

102 
10.3 
108 


109 
121 


122 
139 


140 
1.1.3 
I.U 

170 


will 


LIST   OF   ILLU.STUATIONS. 


1  IIAI". 

I'AISU 

xiir. 

Til.'  ToriKM  HIv.T     . 

171 

Tlw  Soti^lik 

INO 

XIV. 

Saniojidc's  Mild  lluir 

DwcllillLT'' 

I.S7 

Tlic  Siinw  Uniiliii;:    . 

1 !):» 

XV. 

(il'Oll]!  of  (  (sfjllivH 

1 00 

TllrSMMc       '     . 

•J02 

XVI. 

Tol.olsk    . 

2(ia 

Till'  .Ai'ij-ali  Sli(M'|) 

217 

XVII. 

Siliciiiiii     Mxilus     (11 

roiitu     . 

L'18 

Till' Srii  Otter  . 

•.':i!) 

XVIII. 

Gr(Jiii>     of     Iviissiaii 

SlciljjrS 

211) 

Th.'  Ivory  0 nil 

'2r>i 

XiX. 

.Iiikiits      . 

2.V2 

TIk^  Wliistliiitr  Swan 

2r)S 

XX. 

'I'lissian  I'ofj;  SlidLrii , 

2.V,) 

rill'  r>lafk  (iiiillciiiot 

271 

XXJ. 

()<'liotsk    . 

The  Soofcr,  or  Black 

27.-. 

l)iv«r    . 

2S0 

XXll. 

Tlio  Aleutian  I-lands 

281 

Tlir  Silvery  I''ox 

28',» 

XXIII. 

r'('lro['anlo\vsk 

2!i(> 

Till!  l']si|uiiiiaiix  I)op; 

2ii7 

XXIV. 

Tcliutilii    ami    tluir 

Tcnt.s    . 

298 

The  I'olar  Hare 

300 

XXV. 

Nativrs    of     I'liala- 

selika    . 

nor. 

The  Sen  Hear    . 

;n« 

XXVI.   Esijuiniaux  watehing 

a  Seal  llolo  .         .  ;il7 

The  Narwhal    .         .  337 

XXVII.   lIiuL^on's  Bay  Post   .  3;i8 

The  Hiaek  Hear         .  Soo   j 
XXVIII.    free     Wigwams     in  I 

Suninii'r         .         .  .'Jjfi 


(WW.  I'Acl. 

XXJX.  Till  Hoi'ky^Ionntaiiih 
on  till'  .Mai'ki'n/ie 
Hivir  .         .     .101 

The  Iaiix  ,         .     :u\'.i 

XXX.    ICiitiliiii  .N'ativiH        ,     ;(7ii 
Till'  riiii'  Martrn       .     .'i7ti 
XXXI.    Ilill    ;it     Kai'iiis    on 

r.rar  Lake  Kivcr  .     ;i77 

Till'  .MuMjiiasli  ,     ;i!)ii 

XXXIJ.   Tlir  Torso  l.'iM'k        .     It'.H 

Till'  Oreat   Noi'lhern 

Divir    .         .  IL'.' 

XXXJIi.    Tlii'tinat  Iliiiiil'ul.lt 

(ilaeicr  .  .     '12; 

Till'  Haeorili        .  .       Ilis 

XXXIV.    Jeeher^r-on  tlir  lialiks 

of  Nowfoundlanil  .     -I'.V.i 
Till'         Uid-hreasteil 
^Irrftaiiser     .  1  h 

XXXV.    Portraits    of   (ireeii- 

laml  Natives  .      11' 

Till'  Colony  of  Suk- 

krl'toyijiell       ,  /(iJ'di'C   I.V 
Till'  Snow  ri(ii»i'       .     -ici 
XXXVI.    Caiio      Ci'o/.iir      ami 

."\loiuit  Ti'rror         .     -li;' 
Christmas     llailiour, 

Ki  r;riH'li'n's  Lanil  .      17 i 

Till'  SiM'i-m  Whale     .      i;- 

XXXVII.    Mount  .Mint!)    .         .     i:.' 

The  Sea  Klephant      .      IS!' 

;n«    .   XXXVIII.    Tln' strait  of  Magel- 


Tho  Miuk 


803 


Ian       .  .  .  ID' 

The  Wandering  Alha- 

trosH    .        .  .  oil;;  J 

XXXIX.    Group  of  Patagonian.s  Tin 

The  (jiianaeo    .  .  OK  i 

XL.    Stati'ii    Island — Capo 

Horn      .         ,  .  .'i 


1 


lit 


Tho  r 


e  again 


rvi  I 
ki'ii/ic 

s        ,  ;!7ii 

•ri       .  ;i7(i 
s    on 

iviT  .  ."77 

.  .'11*11 

I  hern 


HI 


.bukit 

.     42) 

,     -l.'is 
•.auks 

and  .     -l'.]'.! 
ustcl 

.      ll> 
rocn- 

.      11:1 
Snk- 

titj'acc  I. Hi 
c        .      -ICl 
ami 

.    •Hi.; 

lioiir, 

-and  .     \'\ 
ill)    .     i;- 

.  1: 
nt  .  1  > 
[agcl- 

.  l;i 
/Vlba- 


^ 


'^''^  f"l^<>^''''n;i   rilu.^frailnnH  arc  tnl„.    j  „ 

Tl...KroiM,,s.n,-,Vn.oran.onffIc.ol.orgs. 
»'ij)..  I  ro.nr  an.l  M„„,„  Terror 
^•''■•is.n.as  irarl.,a,r.  K.r.nK.ion'.s  Land, 
•Mount  Min(o. 


nmn^ 


-Capo 


•''•  fM 


""% 


i  ll 


■■^, 


I'VIJ'I'    I 


4 


TIM';    AIJCTrc    UKCrONS. 


RMPHl 


IHiiil 


'Buff^'i 


Tlie  r.:invii  ("i 
nil  r-'-'riii'ii 

b.y  ''ii'  Si)i,\ 
V(:j-.iati,,n- 

N..i'ili,rii    I 

8eV.  !'!lV  i,t' 

Wi..!<_].:xi 

Cli.M.IIr    Ji;i\ 

Ih-.  (i-w.iM  I 

Ni^!!!-.        Til 

A<iLAX 
iiiiiiiy 

Eur<'|H',  Asi 
Oceiiii  (u-  ii 

streiiiiis.  s(i 
Yenisei 
<'!irtli, 


(•iiA!"r!:if  !. 

THK      AltlTM"      LAND.- 


Tlie  I'm;';'  11  (lroiih<U  (M'  'riiii'lri-  -  Almiiilaih'c  nt'  Aniiiial  J,ilr  on  tlir  Tiiii-li'i  in  Sum - 
nifi'-  -  Till  ii'  Sill  lu'c  mill  |)csiilatiiiii  in  Winter-  J'riiti'Olinn  m  Hi  mini  lu  \"iMr('i;iiii>n 
bj  llir  Snnw  -I'Tnwcr-i^rowtli  in  tlio  luV^lu'st  L.-iiilmlrs — Clini.ntrr  nf  Tunilra 
Vfi-'i'tatiiin-- Soul  111  rn  liuundary-lnir  nf  the  Uarri-n  (Ji'Dunils — 'I'lirir  Jv\ti'Ut  — 
Till'  i''iirr>i  /one  —  Aim  ii- 'I'l'i'i-s  -  Sinwucss  of  tln'ir  <  ii'nwtli  —  Mmiutiuiy  nl  il:i> 
Ni'i'tihi'ii  l-'di'rsi-;  —  .Mu^ijuitoi's — -  Tlw  Viiriii\is  ('ausi's  wliit'li  di  Irrniinr  ilie 
So\  ■  !'!i\' I't'  an  AiTiii' Cliuialr-  Insular  ami  Continental  I'usillun — C'lirrnii  — 
Wi'!'!-  — l-".xlntiir>  i,t'  Colli  i.li-rrvnl  Kv  Sir  M  1!.  Iclirr  and  l'".  iCaiir -IIuw  is 


Ma 


Ir  to   Mi)ii"irt  tlio  JJii^uui-^  ot'  an  Ar.lir  AVinlcr  ?  -  I'l t'--  nf  a    niili 


CliM.iii'  iia\  Mill  oui'i'  riiiriii'd  in  ilir  Ar.'tii'  Ki'Liions  —  Its  ('ansr  ai-rordiiiu'  to 
Dr.  <  i-u  ill!  llr.T — I'riailiar  IJiautii'siiftlu'  Arctii'  KiL;iiin>--SiiiiMt  —  Loiilt  l-iinai' 
Ni^'!'-     Thr  AaroiM. 

A<n,AX('l''  111  :i  inait  <ii"  the  AnMic  regions  sli,i\vs  us  llnit 
iiiiiiiy  (>(' tlic  rivers  l)i'loiii4'iii<4-  t,,  tlictlirt'c  cMiitiiiciiis — 
EuTi'iK',  Asiii,  Aiiii-ric!! — disclinrLic  tlit-ir  wiitcrs  into  Uic  Polar 
OcCiMi  dv  its  tributary  bays.  Tht'  tt'rrit(»ri('s  (h'aiut'd  by  tbrso 
stremiis.  sniuc  dC  wliirb  (such  as  the  Mac]\<'u/.it',  tlic  Lcua, 
the  N  I'uisci,  and  the  Olii)  rauk  aniouo-  the  iiiant  rivci-s  nf 
the  lavtli.    IniMii.  aloiiL;'  with  the   inlands  witliiii   or   near   the 

II  -A 


TIIK    I'OLAII    \V()IilJ>. 


Arctic  circle,  the  Viist  vc^inn  dvcr  wliicli  tlio  frMst-kiii^*  rci^^iis 
suprcinc. 

Miin  styles  liiinsi'lf  the  lord  ^A'  the  earth,  iiiid  may  witli 
some  justice  lay  claim  to  the  title  in  more  ;j,v]iial  lauds  where, 
armed  with  tlu;  plouj^h,  he  eompels  the  soil  to  yi(>ld  him  ;i 
variety  of  truits ;  hut  in  those  desolate  tracts  which  aiv 
wiiiter-honud  durin*.;-  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  he  i> 
}:ifeuerally  a  mere  wanderer  over  its  surface — a  hunter,  ;i 
fisherman,  or  a  herdsman — ami  hut  few  small  settlements, 
separated  from  each  other  by  immense  deserts,  i^'ivc  proof  di 
his  havin;^'  made  some  weak  attempts  to  establish  a  footing', 

ft  is  difficult  to  determine  Avith  precision  the  limits  of  tli- 
Arctic  lands,  since  many  countries  situated  as  low  as  latitud 
()()°  or  even  50°,  such  as  South  (Ireenland,  Laljrador,  Kaiii- 
tschatlca,  or  the  country  about  Lake  Ijaikal,  have  in  thci; 
clinvati'  and  productions  a  decidedly  Arctic  character,  wlii! 
others  of  a  far  more  n(»rth(»rn  position,  such  as  the  coas' 
of  Noi'way,  enj(»y  even  in  winter  a  remarkably  mild  tem- 
perature, lint  they  are  naturally  divided  into  two  [>rinci]i;! 
and  well-marked  zones — that  of  the  forests,  and  that  of  tli 
tre«'less  wastes. 

The  latter,  comprisin;^'  the  islands  Avithin  the  Arctic  circlr. 
form  a  belt,  nu)re  or  less  broad  bounded  by  tlu'  continent;: 
shores  of  the  N(»rth  Polar  seas,  and  ^'radualiy  merj^'ino-  toward- 
the  south  into  the  forest-re^'ion,  which  encircles  them  with 
tj^arland  of  ever«^'reen  conifera\ 

This  treeless  /on.-  bears  the  name  of  the  '  l:»arren  o-vomids. 
or  the  'barrens'  in  North  America,  and  of  '  tundri '  ii 
Siberia,  and  European  Russia.  Its  Avant  of  trees  is  causii 
not  so  much  by  its  hiy'h  northern  latitude  as  by  the  colli 
sea-Avinds  Avhich  SAveep  luichecked  over  the  islands  or  tin 
flat  coast-lands  of  the  Polar  Ocean,  and  for  miles  and  niik'! 
compel  even  the  hardiest  plant  to  crouch  before  the  blast  ;nii:«|j 
crei'])  alon^"  the  j^'round. 

Nothin;^-  can  be  more  melancholy  than  the  aspi^ct  of  tin 
boundless   morasses  or  arid  Avastes  of  the   tundri.     Diiii:.'! 
inosses  and  i^'rey  lichens  form  the   chief  ve^'etation,   and 
fcAV  scanty  li'rasses  ordwartish  (lowers  that  may  have  fouint 
n'tu-^'c  in  some  more  sheltered  spot  are  unable  to  relieve  tl 
dull  monotony  of  the  scene. 


Ill   will 
Mnilli   or 

mIc/icc.    11 

vc|])iiio',,f 

A\  il'MI  tile 

and    till'   ; 

Idrds  ;i{)|)c 
_-\u  adiiiii'; 
taiil  (diiiie 
(>v  lakes.  (I 
iilimu'  tlic 
('"'m!.   aii(l 

S'riii'ity     l.»l 
J''li);iiii     oil 

i'iir'licr  nor: 

Kai'Ics   ii 

^ir.iiid  hird." 

I'll-h.'S;    ;in(_ 

I'liiiiiiiM-  \vai 

Uliile    th 

1  'ijfatory  bi 

n'id   sturii'coi 

ill  it  forces  tl 

1  •;•  I  lie  |.uq 

i^'>\  ct  Avaters 

111'  ri'iiidccr 

iriiciis  (d'  th 

'}'  llie  co(ded 

'1  till'  stino'iii 

Thus  duriuj 

I'ltcd  scene,  ] 

J"-'iiii\  the  tis 

':-:■< 'd  to  pay 

[''■■- li'iiinvr,  to 

''"'  iis  Soon 

M'lil'"ii<di    (d"   A 

fasten  to  leitvt 

fiiil.    The  yees 

Ji'  sduth;  tht 

''''■i'>*"il  Avhie] 


VAKVlXli    ASI'IXTS    OF   TIIK    TLNDliA. 


In     V 


In  wiiilt'i",  Avlit'ii  uiiiniiil  lite  luis  in(»,stly  retivjited  to  tlio 
MHiili  m-  SMUii'lit  ii  rt'f'uyc  ill  buiTi»ws  <ir  in  ciivcs,  au  invt'ul 
>iltii(i'.  iiitt'iTUjited  only  by  the  liootiny  of  a  siiow-owl  ov  the 
\i'ljiiiiL;n|'a  fox,  reii^'us  over  their  vast  ex[)aiis(' ;  but  in  s[>rinm-, 
wlhii  till'  I»i'mwii  earth  reappears  from  under  the  melted  snow 
and  till'  swamps  bej^'in  to  thaw,  enormous  llig'hts  of  wild 
liii'ds  appeal-  u[M)n  the  scene  and  enliven  it  for  a  few  months. 
,\ii  ailiiiirable  instinct  leads  theii*  winu'ed  le<>"ioiis  from  dis- 
t;iiit  cliines  t(»  the  Arctic  Avildernesses,  where  in  the  morasses 
(.!•  hiki's.  on  the  banlcs  of  the  rivers,  on  the  flat  strands,  or 
iiloiiLi'  the  hsh-teeminn*  coasts,  they  find  ar.  abundance  of 
liind.  and  where  at  the  same  tinu'  they  can  with  yi-reatcr 
sicnritv  liuild  tlieir  nests  and  rear  thi'ir  vounti*.  Some 
]'iii;ii!i  on  the  skirts  -if  the  forest-i'e^"ion  ;  otliers,  fiyin;^* 
UurtliiT  northwards,  lay  their  e^'n's  iijion  the  naked  tundra. 

Ilau'les  and  hawks  follow  the  traces  of  the  natatorial  and 
s'.iaiid  birds;   troops  of  ptarmi;^Mns  roam  amony-  the  stunted 
dunlies;  and  when  the   sun  shines,    the   tinch  or  the   snow- 
dniiitin',;'  wai'bles  his  merry  note. 

While  thus  the  warmth  of  summer  attracts  hosts  of 
lii^ratory  birds  to  the  Arctic  wildernesses,  shoals  of  salmon 
jii!id  sturg;eons  entei-  the  rivei's  in  o1)edience  to  the  instinct 
illiiit  forces  them  to  (juit  the  seas  and  to  swim  stream  upwards, 
■j '1'  the  purpose  of  depositin;^'  their  s[iawn  in  the  tranquil 
i!-\v  vi  waters  of  the  stream  or  lake.  Ab(mt  this  time  also 
fill.'  ri'indeer  leaves  the  forests  to  feed  on  the  herl)s  and 
Hi'lii'iis  of  the  tvnidra,  and  to  seek  alon;^-  the  shoi-cs  fanned 
IV  the  cooled  sea-breeze  some  [»rotection  ai^'ainst  the  attatdvs 
u'tlie  stin<>'in<j;'  flies  that  rise  in  myriatls  from  the  swamps. 

Tims  durin^'  several   months  the  tundra    presents  an  ani- 

ii.ited  scene,  in  Avhich  man  also  plays  his  part.     The  birds  t>\' 

Inair,  the  Hshes  of  the  water,  the  beasts  of  the  earth,  are  all 

il'liLi'i'd  to  pay  their  tribute  to  his  various  wants,  to  appease 

lii>liun"i'r,  to  (dothehis  Itodv,  or  to  '••ratify  his  <;ri'ed  of  Li'iiin. 

but  as  Soon  as  the  first  frosts  of  Heptendjer  announce  the 

|ili[ir(iach    of  winter,  all   animals,  with  but  few   exceptions, 

bstcn  to  leave  a  re^iiiu  where  the  sources  (»f  lifV'  must  soon 

lii.    The  yeese,  ducks,  and  swans  return  in  dense  flocks  to 

!■  snuth;  the  strand-birds  seek  in   some  lower  latitude  a 

In  rsi.il  which  J'.llows  their  sharp  beak  to  seize  a  bnrrowinj.'; 


'■'% 


6  THE    I'OLAR    Woin.It. 

proy  ;  ilio  wtitcr-fowl  forsiiki^  tlic  biiys  iUHrclianiicls  (liiii,  nviII 
soon  bo  bl<-)C'laMl  iipAvitli  ice;  tlic  rcimliH'v  (tiicc  iiiorr  rt'turnli 
tlic  forest,  and  in  a  sIkh-I  iiiiic  n()lliiii<^-  is  U't't  that  can  indiin 
man  to  jn-olon^-  liis  stay  in  the  tirrk'ss  plain.  Soon  a.  tliiil 
mantle  of  snow  covits  the  hanlcncd  oartli,  tlu'  frozen  lalcc 
tlui  ieo-l)oun<l  river,  and  conceals  tlieni  all  — seven,  ei^'lit,  niiii 
months  lon<4' — nnder  its  monotonous  i>all,  except  Avliere  ih 
Curious  north-east  wind  sweeps  it  away  and  lays  hare  tli' 
naked  rock. 

This  snow,  which  after    it  has  once  fallen  persists  initi! 
tlie  long-  summer's  day  has  effectually  thawed  it,  protects  ii 
an  admirable  manner  the  vci^'etation  of  the  hig'her  latituiL- 
against  the  cold  c>f  the  long;  winter  season.      For  snow  i> 
so  bad  a  conductor  of  lunit,  that  in  mid-winter  in  the  hi^i'li 
latitude    of    7S°    oO'    (llensselaer    Bay),    while    the    snrfatv 
temperature   was  as  low  as  —  :}0°,  Kane   found  at  two  fv 
deei)  a  temperatnro  of  —  8°,  at  four  feet  +  -^,  and  at  eiglr 
feet  +  2G',  or  no  more  than  six  det^rees  below  the  freeziii;.'- 
point  of  water.    Thus  covered  by  a  Avarm  crystal  snow-mantle 
the  northern  ]»lants  pass  the  long-  winter  in  a  comparativil} 
mild  temperatvire,  high  enough  to  niaintain  their  life,  Avhiit. 
without,  icy  blasts — capalde   of   converting'  mercury   into  ;; 
solid  body — howl  over  the  naked  wilderness;  and  as  the  firs' 
snow-falls   are    more   celhdar  and  less   condensed  than  tli 
nearly   im[>al[)al>le   jtowder  of  winter,  Kane  justly  ol)servr- 
that  no  "•  eider(h)WJi  in  the  cradle  of  an  infant  is  tucked  i: 
more   kindly   than   the   sleej>ing'-dress   of  winter  about  tli 
fi'el)le  plant-life  of  the  Arctic  zone."     Thanks  to  this  pn- 
tecti(»n,aml  to  the  inlluence  of  a  sun  which  for  months  circl<- 
above  the    horizon,  and    in  favonralde  l(»calitie8  calls  tovti 
the  pmvers   of  veg-etation  in  an  incredibly  short  time,  ew- 
Washington,  (irinnell   Land,    and    Spitzl)crg'en  are  able  1 
boast  of  (lowers.     M(n't(ni  plucked  a  crncifer  at  CapeCoJisf:- 
tution  (SO"  4.V  N.  lat.l,  and,  on  the  lianks  of  Marv  Mintui 
Itiver  (78°  r)'J'),  Kane  came  across  a  flower- growth  whirl: 
thoug-h  drearily  vXrctic  in  its  type,  was  rich  in  variety  in;. 
colouring'.     Amid  festuca  and  other  tufted  grasses  twinklr, 
thi»   purple   lychnis  and  the  white  star  of  the   chickwt\'il 
and,  not  without   its  ]ileasing-  associations,  he   recognised 
solitary  hesperis — the  Arctic  representative  of  the  wallflower 
of  liomt*. 


^5 


Vc^'ctal 

the  >a.> 

faiiiilic 

gi'ouinl: 

more  ui 

iiidividi 

riitely  ( 

[I  'in'ii  li'ii 

In  more 

tli(i  exc 

Avliicli 

iiiuii<lat( 

i'recjuent 

ft  nur 

f:«']iiiratej 

1111(1  irreg 

Ji    wider 

ii]i<iu  the 

iiti-nratio] 

Ji'lvaiice  f 

i     Thusti 

in  Laln'ad 

ButHi'ientl 

liiiiimltMlc 

from  the 

\\\i'\  begii 

mouth  c>f 

51  >  (i^\  or 

;^it'tliat  ri\ 

niilil  thev 

py  Asiatic 

!iii::iin,  mo 

:fii'  lis  the 

iillN'U   llill 

t'vcii   reac 

ivtrcat  fui 

-■<  lasts  of 

liiid  itself 

fh'iice  A 

LVinorica  o 


TIIH    iJARKK.VS. 


its  until 
cttects  ii 
latitii.lc^ 
snow  h 
lie  lii'^'li 
surl'iK' 
two   li'i- 
at  ci;4'li' 
tVeeziu'^- 
^-iiuintk'. 
liirativcl} 
e,  wlult'. 
into  ;; 
the  i\v> 
Kill    111- 
>l)servr- 
nclcc'd  i; 
)(»iit  til- 
his  pi'"- 
IS  ciivl'' 
lis  fori! 
no,  vw'. 
able  \' 
>  Const:- 
Mintur 
I  Avliir!'.. 
>ty  :ii'' 
hvinldt 


KWCt-'' 

L'nisrd 

riinow. 


yo\t  to  tlio  liT-lions  and  niossos,  wliieli  furni  tlic  chief 
Vf^-t'iiitioii  of  the  tiveloss  zono,  tlio  criu-ifenL',  the  {^-rasses, 
ihe  saxifi'Mu'as,  the  caryo[»hylla\  and  the  conijiosita^  are  tlie 
fiiinilies  of  i>lants  most  larj^vly  represented  in  the  barren 
^nnnids  or  tundri.  Though  veLu'etatioii  becomes  more  and 
more  imiforni  on  advaneing"  to  tlie  nortli,  yet  the  number  of 
iiidividual  plants  does  not  decrease.  When  the  soil  is  niode- 
Tiitely  dry,  the  surface  is  covered  by  a  dense  carpet  of  lichens 
{r,,//^/V/'/(o<"'),  mixed  in  damper  spc»ts  with  Icelandic  moss. 
Ill  niorc  tenacious  soils,  other  plants  flourish,  not  liowevi'r  to 
tlie  exclusion  of  lichens,  except  in  tracts  of  meadow  around, 
wliicli  occur  in  sheltered  situations,  or  in  the  alhivial 
iiiniidated  ilats  where  tall  reed  grasses  or  dwarf  wullows 
iVcipiently  grow  as  closely  as  they  can  stand. 

It  miiy  easily  bo  supposed  that  the  boundary  line  which 
£!•■]  Ill  rates  the  tundri  from  the  forest  zone  is  both  indistinct 
{111(1  irregular.  In  some  parts  where  the  cold  sea-winds  have 
11  wider  range,  the  barren  grounds  encroacli  considerahly 
11)1(111  the  limits  of  the  forests;  in  others  where  the  con- 
liu'iration  of  the  land  prevents  tlieir  action,  the  wi>ods 
ji'lvaiice  farther  to  the  north. 

Thus  the  barren  grounds  attain  their  most  soutlierly  limit 

in  Laln-ador,  where  tliey  descend  to  latitude  .')7°,  and  tliis  is 

ButUriently  explained  by  the  position  of  that  blealc  peninsula, 

h  iiiii(l(.'d  on  three  sides  by  icy  seas,  and  washed  by  cold  currents 

fidiu  the  ncn'tli.     On  the  opposite  coasts  of  iiudsoiTs   IJay 

they  begin  about  00%  and  thence  gradually  rise  towards  the 

iiKnitli  of  the  Mackenzie,  where  the  forests  advance  as  higli 

{IS  (is\  or  even  still  farther  to  tlie  north  along  the  l(»w  banks 

iot'tliat  river.  From  tlie  Mackenzie  the  barrens  again  descend 

|tiiitil  they  reach  Bering's  Sea  in  G5°  N.  L.     On  tlie  op])(»sit(i 

;^tr  Asiatic  shore,  in  the  land  of  the  Tchuktclii,  they  Ix'giii 

|{i::aiii,  more  to  the  south,  in  C)-\°,  thence  continually  rise  as 

,:M\v  as  the  Lena,  where  Anjou  Il)uiid  trees  in  71°  N.  L.,  and 

iftlicu  tall  aii'ain  tow^ards  the  Obi,  where  the  forests  do  not 

|('\tii   rcat-h   the    Arctic    circle.      From   the  Obi  the    tundri 

Jrtioat  further  and  further  to  the  north,  until  finally,  on  the 

?i>asts  of  Norway,  in  latitude  7o°,  they  terminate  with  the 

and  itself. 

Hence  -\v(>  see  that  the  treeless  zone  of  Europe,  Asia,  and 
L\iii(  liea  (X'cupies  a  space  larger  than  the  whole  of  ihirope. 


TIIK    I'OLAll   WOUI.l). 


Even  the  Africun  Saluiru,  or  the  Piiiii[»iis  of  South  Ameri(;i. 
sir<!  inferior  in  extent  to  the  8il>eriiiii  Tuiidri.  But  1li. 
pesses.siou  of  a  few  hunth'ed  s(|U!ire  miles  of  fruitful  territon 
on  tiu.'  south-ANestern  I'rontiers  of  his  vast  empire  would  be  di 
^•reater  value  to  the  Czar  than  that  of  tlK)se  boundless  wastes, 
whieh  are  tenanted  oidy  by  a  few  wretched  pastoral  tribes. 
or  some  equally  wretched  lishermen. 

The  Arctic  forest-rey^ions  are  of  a  si  ill  "greater  extent  thim 
the  vast  ireeless  plains  whieh  they  encircle,  ^\'hen  we  (-(in- 
sider that  they  form  an  almost  continuous  belt,  stretchiiii: 
throui^h  three  parts  of  the  world,  in  a  breadth  of  from  lo°  1. 
20°,  even  the  woods  of  the  Amazon,  which  cover  a  surfiKr 
lifteen  times  greater  than  that  of  the  ITniied  King(hiiii, 
shrink  into  comparative  insi^'uificance.  L'nlike  the  tro2»i<-ii! 
forests  which  are  characteris('d  by  an  immense  variety  (i 
ti'ees,  these  northern  woods  are  almost  entirely  composed  di 
conifera.',  and  one  sin^-le  kind  of  fir  or  pine  often  cover- 
an  immense  extent  of  it'round.  The  European  and  Asiatii 
s])ecies  ditfer,  however,  from  tlu»se  which  ^row  in  America. 

Thus  in  the  Russian  i-mpire  and  Scandinavia  we  iind  tin 
Scotch  tir  {Piiuis  aiilcislris),  the  Siberian  lii"  and  larch  (.l/.n> 
sihIn'cK,  Ijorly  xihirii'((),  the  Picea  obovata,  and  the  Pinib 
cend)ra  ;  while  in  the  Hudson's  Bay  territories  the  avooiK 
principally  consist  of  the  Avhite  and  black  spruce  (.l/'A- 
<ilhii  vt  i).i<im),  the  C^madian  larch  [Ldri.f  cuiKuJcnxix,  and  tin 
^•rey  pine  [Pluiis  hmili-siaiui).  In  both  continents  birch  ti'c(- 
grow  further  to  the  north  than  the  conifene,  and  the  dwai'! 
willows  form  dense  thickets  on  the  shores  of  every  river  am. 
liike.  Various  species  of  the  service  tree,  the  ash  and  tli> 
elder  are  also  nujt  with  in  the  Arctic  forests;  and  both  nndi 
'^■(f  shelter  of  the  woods  and  l>eyond  tlu'ir  limits,  nature,  as  ii 
(..>  (MMipensate  for  the  want  of  fruit  trees,  produces  in  favoui- 
f  :  '  i('calities  an  abundance  oi'  bilberries,  bo<j;berries,  crin- 
u(Tri'>,  &c.  {Eitifhinon,  Vacciiii'iirii),  whose  fruit  is  a  ^tciii 
boon  Lo  man  and  beast.  When  coUj^'ealed  ])y  the  autumiiai 
frosts,  the  berries  frecpUMitly  remain  han;^in^'  on  the  busllo^ 
until  the  snov.' melts  in  the  followin;L4' June,  and  are  then  ii 
consi(h'rable  r(>source  to  the  Hocks  of  water-lbwl  mit;ratiiiL' 
to  their  northern  breeding-places,  or  iu  the  bear  awakeniii 
from  his  winter  sleep. 


A  IMI 

lai  iiii.l< 
travi'ln 
ycai's.  . 
iiiiTcasi 

tli'CI'rjili 
clii!lh'  ( 

t>   till'    s 
llllt     lint 
fllr    I'm  re 

■with  ill 
Jiiiilliilih 
Baiiiiiicr, 

lint    l;ist 

j^mwlli  ( 

till'    IH  il't 

iii-taiici>. 

rint  tllir! 
tuinliM.  f 
lli-llt,-(| 

ill!"  i'l'ai 
Cju.'iitly  a 
until  liiui 
qiiislicd  1 
of  licln-n.s 
Vi'iiMirc  fi 
.\  tliii'ii 
B-i-lli  iVol 
tlh'ir  li;in 

till  'M'     1|(  l\ 

aiil  I'vcii 

•Vcliujiii  Ills 
lllHsS  ill  tl 
\>'A\\  the 
khii'.^ty  tlii 
The  (111 
ll'i't  \r  [\<r 
|nti<iii.      I 

|1     illSc'cts 

h-a/.iiiiiii 


'"t 


AUITIC    FOKKST.S. 


iHcrica. 
iiil  th. 
rrviton 
lid  Ix"  *<\ 
i  wastes. 
,1  tribes. 

31lt  tliuti 
\V('  Cdll- 
ivtclliiii; 

I     '■°      4 
111      1')         tn 

'iiig'(l(iiii. 

tropk'iil 
iiriety  <'t 
iposf'd  (it 
II  eovii- 
lI  Asiiitii; 
niLTicii. 

lind  111' 

L-ii  (J /.•;..< 
riiiu> 

le  "Wcioil- 
>  (J/'/V- 
iiiul  iln 
I'cli  trei- 
ic  dwai't 
ivev  iiiii; 
and  til' 
h  ninlci 
ire,  as  i; 
favour- 
's, eiMii- 
a  ^TCiit 
itiniiiKi! 


leii 


tl 

iL^raliiii: 
likeiiiiii. 


AiMitlii'i-  (listiiiclivf  cliaraftev  (if  tlic  forests  of  \\\v  lii^^'li 
latiiii.l.'s  is  llicir  aiipareiit  youth,  so  that  <;-('ii('rally  tlic 
iiavrll.T  wiMild  hardly  su[.]»ose  thciii  to  '•(•  inoiv  than  fifty 
ycais.  or  at  most  a  cciituvy  old.  'Jlieir  juvcuili'  appcaraiiei' 
iii.'ivascs  oil  advaiiciii;^'  northwards,  until  suthlcidy  tlu'ir 
til  civjiiil  au't'  i^  rt'vcalcd  tiy  the  thiclc  Inisli'.'.s  of  Ii(dK>ns  which 
cli'tlif  or  hau;^'  dttwu  from  tlieir  slirivcUed  l)on«j;'lis.      Fnrtlier 

arc  found  seattercd  licrc  and  tlicrc. 


-out  ll. 


ll'o-C    tl'.'OS 


l»iii  not  SO  numerous  as  to  nu»dify  tlu'  j^'eneral  appearance  o 


.f 


til 

villi 


Ii  irr 


<t,aud  even  tliese  are  mere  dwarfs  wlien  compared 


the    i^iL^antic    iirs   of    more  teiiiiierati'   climate 


Tl 


lis 


Inlid 


iiieiion  is  .suili(.  ieiitlv  explained  l»v  the  shortness  of  the 
Biiiiiincr.  which,  thoii^'li  altle  to  briiiL;'  forth  new  shoots,  does 
ast  loiii;'  eiiouiih  for  the  formation  of  wood.     Hence  the 
rnwtli  of  trees  Ijecoiiies  slower  and  slower  on   advanciiij^-  to 
11'  north  ;  so  that  on  the  hanks  of  the  (ireat  iiear  Lake,  for 


u 

It 


11- 


i<iaiice.  I'Xi  years  are  necessary  for  the  forniution  <»('  a  trunk 

hickei'  than  a  man's  waist.     Towards  the  condnes  of  the 

the  woods  are  reduci-d  to  stunted  stems,  covered  with 

1   huds  that  have  heeii  unaVtle  to  develop  themselves 


[uiHli'a 


nir( 


inti>  I. ranches,  and  Avhich  prove  by  their  nunil)ers  how  fre- 
(jii.'iiliy  and  how  vainly  they  have  striven  apiiust  the  wind, 
Until  (iiially  the  last  remnants  of  arboreal  vei>'etation,  van- 
qi!i>ii((l  liy  the  blasts  of  winter,  seek  refui^'e  under  a  carpet. 
ot  liili.ns  and  mosses,  from  Avhich  their  annual  shoots  hardly 

Veil'  ure  to  ])e;'p  forth. 

:    A  third  jK'culiarity  which  distinti-uishes  the  forests  of  the 

B" 

tl 

th 


I  roll! 


len-  naniuess  c 


those  of  the  trojiical  world  is  what  may  1 
1( 


e  called 


lint 


•haracter.     There  the  traveller  finds  none  of 
noxious  plants  whose  Juices   contain   a   deailly  ]»oisoii, 
•veil  thorns  and  prickles  are  of  rare   occurrence.     No 
teiieiuous  snake   ;.^lides  throii^'h  the    thicket;    no    crocodile 
.Jinks  in  the  swam[»;  and  the  northern   lieasts  of  pre\ — the 
i:ii'.  'he  Ivnx,  the  wolf—are  far  less  danwrous  and  blood- 


iir>iy  ihaii  tlu'  larL>'e  feli(Uo  of  the  torrid  zone. 


1)Us1k'^      r    ''''■ '"'"I'i'i'i'^ively  small  number  of  animals  liviiii;'  in  the 
irrtie  ferests  corresponds  with  the  monotony  of  their  ves4V- 


i\\  loll. 


llls^. 


ct^ 


Here  we  should  seek  in  vain  for  that  immense  variety 
troops  of   oaudy    Ijirds  Avhich    in    the 


or 


tl 


lose 


>r;i/.iliai 


I  woods  excite  the  admii'at ion,  and  not  unfrequently 


10 


TIFK    rOLAR    WOULD. 


cnuso  tlic  <l('Sj>iiii'  of  tin'  AVimdcrcr ;  Ikto  wo  sIkhiM  in  Viiin 
cxjx'et  1<)  liciir  tlu'  I'lii morons  voicos  tliiit  ivsouiid  in  lln 
tropical  tliiclvets.  No  noisy  monkeys  or  fjniiiTt'lsonu'  piirrot> 
settle  on  tlu.'  branches  of  the  trees;  no  shrill  cicadie  or 
melancholy  <^-oat-sucL'ers  interrupt  the  solemn  stillness  of  tin 
ni^'lit;  the  howl  of  the  lnin<4'ry  woll',  or  the  hoarse  screech  oi 
some  solitary  binl  of  prey,  iire  almost  the  <^>nly  sounds  that 
ever  disturb  the  repose  of  these  a^vful  solitudes. 

When  the  tropical  hurricane  sweejis  over  the  vir^-in  forests. 
it  awakens  a  thousand  voices  of  alarm  ;  but  the  Arctic  stoiMii. 
however  furiously  it  may  blow,  scarcely  calls  forth  an  ecli" 
from  the  dismal  shades  of  the  pinewoods  of  tlu;  north. 

Ill  one  respect  oidy  the  forests  and  SNViimi)s  of  the  norilurii 
re^•ions  vie  in  abundance  of  animal  life  with  those  of  llir 
('(juatorial  zone,  for  the  le^'ions  of  ^'uats  which  the  shml 
polar  summer  calls  Ibrth  from  the  arctic  morasses  are  a  iic 
less  intolerable  pla^'ue  than  the  mosquitoes  of  the  tropical 
marshes. 

Thouo-h  aji'riculture  encroaches  but  little  upon  the  Arctic 
woods,  yet  the  agency  of  man  is  gradually  working  a  chanL;i' 
in  their  aspect.  Large  tracts  of  forest  are  continually  wastc'l 
by  extensive  11  res,  kindled  accidentally  or  intentionally, 
which  spread  with  ra[>idity  over  a  wide  extent  of  count vv. 
and  continue  to  burn  until  they  are  extinguished  by  a  heavv 
rain.  Sooner  or  later  a  new  growth  of  tind^er  springs  u]'. 
but  the  soil  being  generally  enriched  and  saturated  witii 
alkali,  now  no  longer  brings  forth  its  al)original  llrs,  but  givf^ 
birth  to  a  thicket  of  beeches  {Jichda  alba)  in  Asia,  or  vi 
aspens  in  America. 

The  line  of  perpetual  snow  may  naturally  be  expected  t ' 
descend  lower  and  lower  on  advancing  to  thepcde,  and  heini 
many  mountainous  regions  or  elevated  plateaux,  such  as  tli< 
interior  of  Spitzbergen,  of  Greoidand,  of  Novaya  Zemlya,  Ac. 
which  in  a  more  temp(^rate  clime  Avould  be  verdant  Avitli 
woods  or  meadows,  are  here  covered  with  vast  fields  of  ico, 
from  which  frequently  glaciers  descend  down  to  the  verge  c! 
the  sea.  But  even  in  the  highest  northern  latitudes,  no  laii'i 
has  yet  been  found  covered  as  far  as  the  water's  edu'e  witli 
eternal  snow,  or  where  winter  has  entirely  subdued  the  po\voi> 
of  vegetation.     The  reindeer  of  Spit/bergen   lind  near  8(' 


,1 
I 

X.  f-.  li 

fill'    S  1 1 1  i 

Island, 
fnr  tll.M 

liir    as 
liistcrcd 

lh';i(  |V( 
•  •I'lisjiln 
iIm-cc   b 

lirlic\C   1 

lill-.  it 
"I"  wiiiti 

ll'lll|M'IM' 

lir~i.lcs 
Ilif  lirrto 

"^\lM'ii  I'm 
^'■\i  rity 
till'  warn 
liiK'iilal 
||"li'   liav 

MMlllllcl'"- 

iicaivr  to 

WfsItTIl 

"I  ■•^ca,  li; 

Illi'illl   sill 

<'!'   uatt'i- 
Mlii'iia    ; 

'I'llr   iiil 

]'"i'taiic(' 
Aivtic  c'li 
l^atliiTs  it 

,iiii'l  lill  til 
villi  ice.  ; 
flMll   ,,f  (,,, 

t;ii'  ^(_uitli( 

<•!'  til.'  :\ii, 

J,-",  liilivd 
l'.''ii  ill  li 
>'ii'l  is  ai) 


AKcTic  vi:(;kt.\ti<>x. 


11 


.0  Avc'ii'- 

ioiuilly. 
,  Ik'HV} 

it  !4'ivi- 

1,  or  ^'' 

^oted  t' 
(1  lionii. 

as  tliv 
ya,  ^i'.. 
lit  Avhl: 

of  in'. 

no  hiii'l 
lo-e  -witl; 


X.  |j.  lidii'Ms  nr  n-rasscs  1o  t't't'tl  u|»oii  ;  in  ravoiiriil>lt'  scmmviis 
i1h'  sikiw  melts  l»y  i]i<'  «Mitl  of  June  on  the  plains  of  MclvilK' 
Ishiml,  iiihI  iiuiiii'rous  Icnnaiii^'S  rffjuiriiiiLif  vc^Tlablo  food 
[\iv  llhir  siiltsislciict'  iiiliabit  the  desorts  of  New  Siboria.  i\s 
l';ii'  iis  jiiiiii  iniN  ivaclic(l  to  the  iiorili,  vci^vtalion,  wlu'u 
InsttTt'd  I)y  a  sludtcrcd  sihiatioii  and  the  refraction  of  solar 
lii';it  from  the  ro(d<s,  lias  everywhere  been  fonnd  to  rise  to  a 
(  uiisiiltTidtle  altitude  above  th(.'  level  of  the  sea;  and  should 
ilni-c  be  land  at  the  north  polo,  there  is  every  reason  to 
lMli.'\('  that  it  is  destitute  neither  of  animal  nor  ve<^etid)le 
lili'.  il  \V(MiM  be  e(]ually  err(»neoiis  to  suppose  that  the  cold 
of  winter  i;:variably  iuereases  as  we  near  the  pole,  as  the 
iriniMiMture  of  a  land  is  inllueneed  by  many  other  causes 
lii-i<lfs  its  latitude.  Even  in  the  most  northern  regions 
liitlii'vto  visited  by  man,  the  inlluenee  of  the  sea,  particularly 
"wlh'ii  raM)ured  by  warm  currents,  is  found  to  niiti^-ate  the 
s'Vii'ity  of  the  winter,  while  at  the  same  time  it  diminishes 
111.'  wiinnth  of  summer.  On  the  other  hand,  the  lar;j^e  con- 
liiientid  tracts  of  Asia  or  America  that  shelve  towards  the 
poll'  have  a  nK»re  intense  winter  c(dd  and  a  far  ^'reater 
Miiniiier's  heat  tlian  many  coast  lands  or  islands  situated  far 
nearer  to  the  pole.  Thus,  to  cite  but  a  few  examples,  the 
Western  shores  of  Novaya  Zendya,  frontinj^^  a  wide  expanse 
ol  sea.  have  an  averay'e  winter  temi)erature  of  only  —  1-°,  and  a 
iiie;iu  summer  tenip^erature  but  little  above  the  freeziuo--poiiit 
«'!'  water  (  + oO^''),  while  Jakutsk,  situated  in  tlu'  heai-t  of 
Ml'eria  and  20^  nearer  to  tht>  ecpiator,  has  a  winter  of 
-:'><■'    ••'.  and  a  summer  of  +ti(>"  (>'. 

The  inlluenee  of  the  winds  is  likewise  of  consMerable  im- 
jiirtanee  in  determinin*:^  the  greater  or  lesser  S(>verity  of  an 
j\rriie  climate.    Thns  the  northerly  winds  which  prevail  in 

A]l;illiirs  iJay  and  Davis's  Straits  dnrine^  the  smnnier  months, 
jjiiii'l  till  the  straits  of  the  American  north-eastern  Archipelay-o 
fviili  ice.  are  probably  the  nniin  cause  of  the  abnormal  depres- 
-^ien  ('f  temperature  in  that  quarter;  while,  on  the  contrary, 
lie  southerly  winds  that  prevail  during-  summer  in  the  valley 
j>\'  the  ]\rackeu/ae  tend  e-reatly  to  extend  the  forest  of  that 

,*:l[''^'''i^^'d  rcLt'ion  nearly  down  to  the  slun-es  of  tiie  Arctic  Sea. 

^Aeii  in  the  depth  of  a  Siberian  winter,  a  sudden  chan;n'e  of 
Mnid  is  able  to  raise  tlu>  thermometer  from  a  mercury-con- 


M 


TIIK    I'OI.AK    \\(J1{LI). 


I 


l^'Ciiliii*^  cold  t(»  a  tf'iiipcruturc  iilxtvr  the  t'r('('/,iiii,'-|)i>iiit  i>\' 
Wilier,  :ni<l  a  warm  wiiu)  Jias  been  kiinwii  to  cause  I'aiii  totiill 
ill  S|iity,l)ern'eii  in  tin   ni(»iitli  (»f' January. 

The  V(»ya;4'es  of  Kane  ainl  Belcher  lia  ve  made  us  ae(|uain1'Ml 
with  tlie  lowest  temperatures  ever  i'elt  I»_v  man.  ( )n  Feh.  ■>, 
Is')!.,  while  the  toi*mer  was  winterint;*  in  Smith's  Souml 
(78°  •»"'  N.  lat.),  the  mean  (A'  his  Ix'st  spirit-thermonieti ! 
sh(»wo(I  the  uiiexaniplcd  temperature  oi'  — (!S°  or  |()()^  In-lnw 
the  iree/inn'-poiut  of  water.  Then  (dilori<'  ether .  heeiim, 
aolid,  and  careful!}^  prepared  chloroform  e\hil)ited  a  »4Tanul;ii 
]»elliele  on  its  surface.  The  exhalations  from  the  skin  investnl 
the  i'xposed  or  partially  clad  parts  with  a  wreath  of  va[Miin, 
The  air  had  a  perceptible  puiiL;eucy  u[»on  inspirtition,  ainl 
everyone,  as  it  Avere  involuntarily,  breathed  ^^-iiai'dedly  with 
(•oni]>ressed  lips.  Al»out  the  same  time  (February  1>  ainl 
10,  1851),  Sir  E.  Belcher  experienced  a  cold  <»f  —5')^  in 
Wellin;4-toii  Channel  (7o°  :>]'  N.),  and  the  still  lower  teiii- 
periiture  of  —(12°  on  January  18,  I8oo,  in  Nortlnnnberlaiu.l 
Scmnd  (70°  52'  N.). 

Whether  the  temperature  of  the  air  descends  still  lowci 
on  advanciu}^-  towai'ils  the  pole,  or  whether  these  extrenn 
de^^-rees  of  c<.»ld  are  not  sometimes  surpasseil  in  those  moun- 
tainous reL4'ions  of  the  north  which,  thouj^-h  seen,  have  iievci 
yet  been  explored,  is  of  course  an  undecided  quest{(»n  :  s^ 
much  is  certain,  that  the  observations  hitherto  nuide  duriii;: 
the  "winter  of  the  vVrctic  regions  have  been  limited  to  ten 
short  a  time,  and  are  too  few  in  Jiiimber,  to  enable  us  ti 
determine  with  anv  deii-ree  of  certainly  tho.se  points  whciv 
the  <4'reatest  cold  prevails. 

All  we  Ivuow^  is,  that  beyond  the  Arctic  Circle,  and  eii^lit 
or  ten  degTees  further  to  the  south  in  the  interior  of  tlir 
continents  of  Asiii  and  America,  the  average  temperature  ot 
the  wijiter  <j;-enerally  ran^-os  from  —20°  to  — '50'' or  evejiknvci'. 
and  for  a  great  part  of  the  year  is  able  to  convert  mercun 
into  a  solid  body. 

It  uiay  well  be  asked  how  nuin  is  al>le  to  bear  the  exccs- 
sividy  low  temperature  of  an  Arctic  winter,  which  must  aiipc:ii 
truly  appalling  to  an  inhabitant  of  the  temperate  zone.  A 
thick  fur  clothing  ;  a  hut  small  and  low,  where  the  waniitli 
of  a  tire,  or  simjdy   of  a  train-oil  lamj),  is   husbanded   in;: 


narrow 
liiiiiian 

eliiii;if  (' 
Alt.T 

w.iniit  li 

ClH'ili'll.- 
;j-lV;|trr 

iiiii'i'iiiil 
ilni'.Msi 
IiiimI.    o} 

(•iri'iilat( 

of  I  III'  II 
Cl|s(,,|||,., 
Willlrl'. 

•Til..  ; 

ll'l.'l'f    oil 

1rii|iics. 
KniMi'ii, 

JTmiIiic'S 

Avilifri-  t, 

liii'ii.      P 

III      {'[u-V] 

ol    oiir  p 

e>l;il.lis]|( 
I'l'IMliiciit 

Oil    (uir   > 
C''i\-,'i'ii|o. 

is  -;;()/ 
Tlirn.  i 
in  III!'  iid! 
p'trili,.,!  ;i 

B:illks"    L; 

ill  \..rt]i 
Iii"iiiit;tin 
or  the  sea, 
lc;i\rs.  t'ru 
aii'l  eii;|])li 
to  uliicli 
•<  '|ll(ii;|s.   « 

lli'licaliu"' 


AUCTIC    (•(»!, I». 


of  tlic 
I  it  arc  ot 

luerciiry 

I'  exci'S- 

appcav 

|nK'.     A 

^vaniitli 

hI   ill  :■ 


iiiiitmw  sjiaci',  iiiid  iil)nvt'  all,  the  woiulcrfiil  power  of  ilic 
liiHiiJii  loiist  it  iitioii  to  arcoimiKxliitt'  i1  self  to  cvrrv  (•liiin;^'*'  of 
rlinialc.  ^d  fill'  to  couiitfract  tin'  riLi'our  of  the  cold. 

Altira  vti'v  lew  davs  llic  ImmIv  di'vclopcs  ail  iiicrcasiii'.;' 
Av.niiitli  iis  till-  t  lii'niiomt'tci'  (Icscciids ;  for  the  air  bciiii;' 
(•(ii'ilfii.^cd  l)_v  ill''  fold,  til''  liniu's  inliaic  at  every  bn^itli  a. 
•  iTcatiT  (iiiaiititv  (tf  oxvu'eii,  which  of  course  accelerates  the 
iiiti'i'iiai  [irocess  of  coiidiusi  ioii,  wildcat  the  same  time  an 
iiirr,  asitiii'  a|>i>ct  ite.  ti'i'atilicd  with  a  co|ii(»iis  su|»[»ly  of  animal 
luiiij.  oT  ilcsh  and  fat,  enriches  the  Mood  and  enahles  it  to 
circulale  more  viL;"orously.  Tims  not  only  the  hardy  native 
of  the  iiortli.  lull  even  the  healthy  tvav(dler  soon  e-,.ts  ac- 
cii^toiiied  to  hear  without  injury  the  ri^-ours  of  an  Ai'cti(3 
Avintcr. 

•The  niysteri(»us  conqtensations,'  says  Kane,  '  hy  whi(di  we 
iid;!|pt  oiu'sclves  to  (diinate  are  more  striking'  here  than  intln^ 
1rH|iics.  Ill  the  Polar  /one  the  assaidt  is  immediate  and 
fjiHlden.  and,  uidikethe  iiisi<lious  fatality  of  hot  countries, 
jirnijiices  its  results  rajtidly.  Ft  ve((uii'es  hardly  a  siiie'le 
V  inter  to  tell  who  are  to  he  the  heat-makine-  and  acclimatisecl 
iiieii.  I'eterseu,  for  instance,  who  has  resi(h'd  for  two  years 
lit  I'liei'iiavik.  seldom  enters  a  room  with  a  tire.  Another 
of  our  pai'ty,  tlcore-e  Jiiley,  with  a  vie'cirous  constitution, 
€>'i;d>tished  habits  of  fre(»  exposure,  and  active  cheerful  teni- 
jieiMuieut,  has  SO  iuured  himself  to  the  cohl,  that  he  sh'eps 
on  our  slcdev  j(»urneys  without  a  blank'i't  or  any  other 
Cevei'iue-  than  his  walking'  suit,  wdiile  the  outside  temperature 

is  —■>{)  . 

'fhere  are  m-any  i>roofs  that  a  mihh'r  climate  once  reie'ued 

ill  llie  northern  ree-iims  of  the  e-htbo.      Fossil  pieces  of  wood, 

petfilied  acorns  and  lir-coues  liavc  bocii  found  in  the  Interior  of 

j!p;iiiks*  Land  by  M'Cluve's  slede-iue-  parties.     At  Anakerdluk 

ill   Xorth  Greenland    (70°  N.)  a  lar^v  forest  lies  buried  on  a 

:;^ieimtain  surrounded  by  e-laciers,   lOSO  feet  above  the  level 

-'^t'the  sea.     Not  (»nly  the  trunks  and  braucdies,  but  even  the 

leaves,  fruit-cones,  and  seeds  have  been  invservedin  the  S(»il, 

||iid  enal)U' the  botanist  to  determine  the  species  of  the  plants 

4'   uliich  they    belong*.     They    show  that,   besides  firs  and 
'il'i"ias,  oaks,  plantains,  (dnis,  mae'iiolias,  and  even  laurels, 
li'iiiatiiiM'  a   climate  such  as  that  of  Lausanne  or  Geneva, 


u 


Tin:    I'uLAU    WnUI.I). 


i 


ell 


lluiirisIi(Ml  fliiriii^'  llif  miocfiif  |iri'i<M|  in  ;i  cMiiiitrv  uliciv 
now  ('V«'ii  llic  willow  is  ••umiiclifd  {o  (^r^'l'^t  iilnn;^'  llir  n'lniiinl. 
Durin;;'  lln'  s;mii<'  f|Hicli  <>{'  llic  ciirtli'M  iiistnrv  S|iit/,i»i'r;^'tii 
Wiis  liki'wisc  covfrt'd  willi  sliitdv  I'nrcsls.  'i'lic  siiiiic  |io|)liir« 
iilid  tilt'  silliic  sWiliri|t-L'Vlirt'SS  I'l'ti  iihIIhhi  ilnhinni)  wlliili 
llicii  llourislicd  in  Ndrlli  ( Jivi-nliiiMl  luivr  liccii  ioiiiid  in  ;i 
lossiliscd  st;ifr  ill  Hell  Sound  (Td"  N.)  by  tin-  Swedish  natni- 
iilisls,  wli(»  iilso  discovered  :i  pliintiiiii  iindii  linden  iis  liii^li  ,i> 
7<S'  and  7J''  in  Kin^-'s  \h\y — a  jtrool'  lliat  in  those  times  tin 
eliuiate  of  S|»it/l>er^n'n  eaniiot  have  heen  coldei*  than  thm 
which  n<»w  reii^ns  insonthern  Sweden  and  Norwav,  eiLihten 
(h'^rees  nearer  to  tlie  line. 

We  know  that  at  [»resent  the  lir.  the  poplar,  and  the  hee 
<4'row  lit'teen  dey'rees  further  to  the  north  than  the  [tlanta 
—  and  the  niiocciie  [leriod  no  (l<iul>t  e.\liil»ited  the  same  jirn 
portion.  Thus  the  |ioplars  and  lirs  wliiih  then  i^rew  ii 
Spitzljeru'en  alon^'  with  plantains  and  lindens  must  lia\' 
ran<4'ed  as  fai'  as  the  pole  itself,  sup[)osiny'  tha<  [)oiid  to  li' 
dry  liind. 

fn  the  miociMie  times  the  Arctic  /one  evidently  presente*! 
a.  very  ditf'erent  aspect  from  that  whi(di  it  wears  at  [)resenl, 
Now,  during'  the  greater  |)art  of  the  y<'i<r,  an  innnense  glacial 
desert,  which  tln*(»unh  its  tloatin^' herj^s  and  diift-ice  depvessc- 
the  tenii>eratnre  of  countries  situated  tar  to  the  south,  it  then 
consisted  of  verdant  lands  covered  with  luxui-iant  forests  and 
bathed  by  an  ojx'U  sea. 

What  may  have  been  the  cause  of  these  aniazinj;"  chant;i> 
of  climate;'  The  readiest  answi'r  seems  to  be — a.  ditt'ereni 
distribntionof  sea  and  land  ;  but  then' is  no  reas(»n  to  beliew 
that  ill  the  niioeene  times  there  was  less  land  in  the  Arcti' 
/one  than  at  presi-nt,  nor  can  any  possiblo  combinatioi!  ii 
water  and  dry  land  be  ima<^'ined  sutticient  to  account  for  flu 
growth  of  laurels  in  (Greenland  or  of  ])lantains  in  Spit/beri:vii, 
Dr.  Oswald  Hoeris  inclined  to  seek  for  an  explanation  of  tin 
})henonienon,  not  in  more  local  terrestrial  chan^-es,  but  in  ii 
diiferonce  of  the  earth's  position  in  tln^  heavens. 

We  now  know  that  our  sun,  with  his  attendant   plancb 


our  c;|j' 

into  til 

H\  St. 'Ml 

villi  St: 

111!  VC  Wil 
0>  lllr  It 
ChlStrlVt 
or      less.' 

liiiM'  a  ji 
and  IJiii.. 
earili,  l)L' 
til.'  h.'Mt 
poles  wil 

hi>  herd 

Wlli.'ll     CJI 

gla.'iiil  |i 
Ar.iic  el 
of  an  iiit 
Con. lit  lull 
Tliiiii|_.| 
diiiu'  a>|) 
btilii.l.'s 
e-A'-,...,|    (1 

8riii\\-c|;|.| 

(k'liiiir;  ,, 
li^^ht  iii-l 
Oontiiiiial 

she  llllS  I 
whit. '11. 'ss 

Tm''   iltllKis] 

til''  iiati\f 
their  hunt 
I  Silt     of 


and    satellites,  performs    a    vast    cii\de,  enibrac 


in<4'  perhai 


hundreds  ttf  thousands  of  years,  round  another  star,  and  tliatj 
Avo  are  constantly  enterinj^-  new  reg'ions  of  space  niitra  veiled  Inl 


(  IIAXii;    IN    AUn'M     Ci.lMATK. 


1-. 


;ntUli<l. 

|t(»|»liir> 

wlii'li 
id  ill  ;i 

iiiitur- 
lii'^li  ;i> 

llK'S   1  111 

nil  tlnit 

'm'liti'i'ii 

[dilliiain 
nil'  I'l" 
o'l-cw    ii 

ist     llilVi 

lit   to  1" 

insciiti''! 

|^>n'si'iii, 

.{.'  i^'hu'ia! 

cpvi'sso.- 

il  tlK'ii 

■L'Sts  illlil 

t'luiim''> 
dill* 'IT  I  It 

;)   l)»'U<'\r 

lie  Al'fti'' 
lalion  I'l 
for  til' 
IzIm'VU'''"' 
hn  (if  til' 
Ibiit  ill ; 

pliiiit'i- 
^H'rliii  I'- 
ll lid  tlui' 
Ivellod  I'.v 


(Mil  rartli  lirfoi'.-.  \Vf  cuiih'  from  I  In-  iimIxMowii.  iiiid  |tliiii;^r 
iiiln  t  III'  iinkiinw  II  :   liiil    so   iiiiK'li    is  ci'i'tniii    tliiit    oiir  solur 

8\stilii     inlis    ill     |.rrM'llt     lliroll^-ll    il    Splirr    lillt    tllilllv    pl'Oplt'd 

villi  stiirs,  and  there  is  no  reiismi  to  doitld  tliiit  it  iiiiiy  oiiee 
ll;i\c  Willldered  t  lll'oliyll  one  of  t  llose  celest  iill  provinces  wln'l'e, 
as  tile  ti'les(o|ie  shows  US,  constelhit  ioiis  iiiH'  fur  more  densely 
chisteied.  Hilt,  its  every  stiir  is  il  l»lii/in^'  sun,  the  ermter 
or  lesser  iiiiiiil»er  (if  theso  heiiveiily  bodies  must  evi<h'iitly 
Liive  :i  |iio|i(irt  ioiiiite  ililllleiiee  ll[((>ii  th<'  tellllK'riltlire  of  spilee. 
and  !liiis  we  limy  siii)|Mise  tliiit  diirin;4'the  niiocene  [)eriod  oiir 
eiirili.  iieiie^'  lit  t  hilt  time  in  ii  iini>iih>us  sich'reiil  rej^'ioii,  enjoyed 
the  lieiielit  tif  il  higher  tempenitiire  which  (dothed  even  its 
peles  with  verdure.  Ill  t  he  eoiii'se  of  ii;4'es  t  he  siiii  coiidiieted 
hi>  held  of  pliinets  into  more  solitiiry  iiiid  eohler  I'ei^ions, 
vlii'li  raused  the  Wiiriii  mioeeiie  times  to  he  foMoWi'd  hy  tlie 
glaiial  |ierio(K  diiriii:;'  whiidi  the  Swiss  fhit  lands  bore  an 
All  lie  eharacti'i',  and  hiially  the  sun  enierLied  into  ii  spiiee 
of  an  intermediate  i  haraeter,  whicdi  (h'termiucs  the  present 
Conditieii  I  if  the  (dimates  of  our  i^lolie. 

'riiMiit^h  Nature  «;eiierally  wears  a  more  stern  iiiid  forl>id- 
diii'j  aspect  oil  iidvillieiii;^'  towiirds  the  poh',  yet  the  lii^h 
kititinlis  ha\e  many  beauties  of  their  own.  Notliinj^'  can 
^Xierd  the  iiiayaiificeiKH'  of  iin  Arctic  sunset,  ch>tliin^'  the 
glH'W-clad  iiiiiiintains  and  the  skies  with  all  tlie  ^'lories  of 
CcloiU':  or  lie  more  serenely  beiiiitifiil  than  the  (dear  stiir- 
li^lil  lULilit,  ilhiniiiied  by  the  brilliant  moon,  which  for  days 
Ooiilimially  eirtdes  iiround  tlie  liori/oii,  never  setting-  until 
slie  has  run  her  Ion;;'  eourse  of  hrii^ditness.  The  uniform 
wliiteiirss  of  the  laudsciipe  iind  the  e-ciu'ral  traiisjiiireiicy  of 
iiie  atmosphere  iuhl  to  tlie  lustre  of  her  bciims,  which  servi' 
th''  natives  to  ^•ui(U'  tlieir  luimudic  life,  iuid  to  lead  them  to 
th'ir  liuiitiii«4'-e'rolllids. 

I'Mt  of  nil  the  imii^aiiticeiit  spectacles  tluit  relieve  the 
Bfli  111 ilniious  ;^l('Oiii  of  the  Arctic  winter,  there  is  none  to 
equal  I  he  miu^ical  Ijeauty  of  the  Aurora.  Niiifht  covers 
th'  Miew-t'hid  earth  ;  the  stars  odimmer  feebly  throu^di  the 
ha/''  whirh  so  fre(iueiitl\  dims  their  brilliancy  in  the  hii^h 
Uktitiide?,.  when  siiddeidy  it  broad  and  clear  bow-  of  lij^ht  spans 
the  li(i|-i/oii.  in  the  direction  where  it  is  traversed  by  th(> 
njiii -iiietie  meridian.     This  bow  soiiudinies  remains  f(.)r  severiil 


i<; 


TIIK    l'(»l,.\l{    \\'OKI,|>. 


hours,  lu'iiviii;^'  or  wavin;^"  to  iiiid  fro,  Ix-forc  it   sends   tortl, 
strciiins  of  lii^lit  ascoiKUii;^'  to  the  zenith.     Sometimes  tlicsr 
Hashes  pr(»(*ee(l  I'rom  the  how  of  li|j;ht  ahme  ;    at  others  the; 
simultaneously  shoot  forth  from  many  o[»posite  parts  of  tlir 
horizon,  and  form  a  vast  sea  (»f  fire  whose  hrilli.iut  waves  nr,' 
continually  ehan^-ino-  their  position.     Finally  they  all  uniti 
in  a  magnificent  crown  or  cupolaof  lii^ht,  with  the  ai)pearaiUT 
of   which    the    phenomenon  attains    its  highest   derive   ^l 
splendour.     The  brilliancy  of  the  streams,  which  are  com- 
monly red  at  their  base,   j^'reen    in    the   middle,  and    li<a]it 
yellow  towards  the  zenith,  increases,  while  at  the  same  tiim 
Ihey  dart   with  j^Tcater    vivacity  thron<i'h    tlie   skies.      Tin 
colours  are  wonderfully  transi>arciit,  the  red  approachinj^-  t(i;i 
clear  blood-red,  the  "Tcen  to  a  pale  emerald  tint.     On  turning.' 
fi'oni  tlu^  ilaminn"  firmanuMit  to  the  earth,  this  also  is  seen  ti 
|l;'1ow  with  a  ma^'ical  liy'ht.    The  dark  sea, black  as  jet,  foiiii- 
a,  strikin*;'  contrast  to  the  white  snow  plain  or  the  distant  ici 
mountain  ;  all  the  ontlines  trend>le  as  if  they  belonged  to  llh 
unreal  world  of  dreams.     The  imposin<4'  silence  of  the  niL;lr 
hei^'htensthe  charms  of  the  ma<j;'nilicent  spectacle. 

But  gfradually  the  crown  fadt'S,  the  bow  of  lii;ht  dissolvis. 
the  streams  become  shorter,  less  freqnent,  and  less  vivid: 
and  finally  the  i^'loom  of  winter  once  more  descends  upon  Ilk 
northern  desert. 


'I'hc  rii'i-'nr   ?nT.vv  Owl. 


ids  fort  I 
lies  these 

luTS  ill('\ 
Is  of  thi' 
vaves  iii'i' 
till  niiiti 
poaraiKv 

are  coiii- 
nd  li^'ht 
imo  tiiin 

PS.      Th. 

llill!4'  t(i;i 
II  tlUMlili: 
s  seen  ti' 
I't,  fonib 
istaiit  icr 
vd  to  Ili> 
tlio  nil:]!: 


ilissolvt's. 
ss  viviil; 

upon  till' 


Sg^iyst^jS^-*^^ 


"'  iimst  ( 
I  'ii'iiiitif'u 
imis  (if  fl 

'jiiarc-tor: 


MISK    OXK.N    ASU    KLKS 


■^^M^A^^ 


("iTAr'ri;if  ii 


AltCriC    LAM)    (ilA|)i;ri'i;i)S    AM)     lilK'D- 


'I'iif  Iiciiulcrr  -Sli'Urlnvc  of  its  Viu<\ — Chitli-riiiu  Noise  whfii  W.illviii^-      Aii'li-rs 
I'.xtraordiiinrv   Olt'ai'lory    I'nwcrs — 'l'iii>    Icrl.indic    Moss      rivs.-in    aiiil    t'oi'incr 
i;aim(>  of  till'  lu'imlciT— Its  iiiviilii.-il-lr  (,iiialilii  s  as  an  Ai''-t  ir  >loiiii  st  ic   Aiiiiiiai 


■-liovoit^ 


iiiist    ()|ii)r('ssiori 


-Kliclllir.s     ot'    I  111'    liciliilfV  — Till-     Wolf — 'I'll 


(ilutloii    oi'   Wolvcriiii' — riail-tlirs — 'I'iic  lOlk   or  Moosi-  Ilri'i- — TUc  .Mu-l-c-ox    - 
'i'lir  W'iM   Slifi'U   of  flic    liorkv  Moiiiitaiiis  — 'I'lir   Silufiaii    Ai'uali      Tln'  An'i  ic 


'X--lts    hnri'iw 


I' 


Aiialida-     Tl 


'rile   I,riiiiiiiiit:s — 'I'lirir    .M itii'atioii 
—  Tlif    I. all!  iiiil    limit 


s  aii'i    laii  iiii'S 


— Aivti 


!■     >no'.\ -I'liiil  iji: 


iiitiii 


a-caLMc 


Ui'ouiii'i  liy  a  I)ol|' 


rpiIE  rciiidt'or  luav  well  IxM-allcd  llic  oaiiu'l  ol'tlit'  iioi'llii'rii 


wastes,  iVtr  it  is  a  tin  Ifss  valtialil 


('  ('(>in[iaiiii«ii  to  t  hi'  \,a\)- 


llainli'V  or  to   tlio  Sainoji'dc  tlian    tli<'  'sliiii   of  the    iIomt!  '  lo 

il!ir    wandering'    BodoTiiii.      It     is    tin'    oiilv    iik'HiIi'M-    of    the 

hiuiiicfoiis  (leer  t'aiuily  tliiii    lias   Ihtii    (loiiicst  icali'd   li_v  iiiau  ; 

jlnit  lliou;^'li   iindouhtctlly  llio  iiiosi    ust-l'iil.  it    is   li_v  no  uicaiis 

lie  most  coiucly  ol'its  rare.      Its  clear  dark  ('_V(>  has,  iiidcod, 

^i  hi'.iutit'ul  oxprossioii,  hut    it  has  iioithcr  ihc  iiol.)l(^  [iro]>or- 

tioiis  of  the  sta^'  nor  tln^  o-vafo  of  tlu'  rov'biudc,  and  its  thick 


Mill 


n't'-t'orinod  body  is   far  iVom  licino-  a  model  ol'  eloua 


ncc 


18 


TlIK    I'OI.AU    \V(»I{F;1). 


Its  If'H's  iirc  sliovt  ;in(l  tliicls,  its  f'cot  l)roii<l  Imt  oxtremr'ly 
vvoll  adiipiofl  foi'  wiilkiiiLi'  over  the  snow  or  on  a  swain|iy 
L;T()\ni(l.  The  lV<»iit  lionls.  Avhicli  arc  capable  <»t'  '^'rcat  lateral 
expansion,  enrve  npwards,  Avliile  the  two  secondary  onc> 
iK'liind  (which  arc  l)nt  sliy'litly  develo}»ed  in  the  fallow  derr 
jind  other  niemhers  of  the  family)  are  consideraldy  prolonj^'ed ; 
a  striietnre  which,  hy  <4'ivin;4'  the  animal  a  broader  base  td 
stand  upon,  i»revents  it  from  sinlcinj^' too  deeply  into  the  snow 
or  the  morass.  Had  the  foot  of  the  reindeer  been  formed 
like  that  of  our  sta*;-,  it  would  have  been  as  unable  to  drag-  tin 
Laplander's  sled«^'e  with  such  velocity  over  tlie  yieldinj^'  snow- 
tields  as  the  camel  wonld  l)e  to  perforin  his  long-  marclns 
thron<j;"li  the  desert  without  the  broad  elastic  sole-pad  on 
Avhich  lie  lirndy  i)aees  the  unstable  sands. 

The  short  leg's  and  broad  feet  of  the  reindeer  likewis.' 
enable  it  to  swim  with  greater  ease — a  power  of  no  small 
importance  in  countries  alxmnding  in  rivers  and  lalc<'s,  and 
where  the  st-arcity  of  food  renders  perpetual  migratioib 
iiecessar}'. 

When  the  reindeer  walks  or  merely  moves,  a  remarlcabli 
clattering  sound  is  hoard  to  some  distance,  about  the  caiisr 
of  Avhich  naturalists  and  travellei's  bv  no  means  agree.  Mesi 
probably  it  results  from  the  great  length  of  the  two  digits  ci 
the  cloven  hoof,  which  Avhen  the  animal  sets  its  foot  upon 
the  gr<mnd  separate  Avidely,  and  Avlien  it  again  raises  it- 
hoof,  suddenly  clap  against  each  oth<r. 

A  long  mane  of  a  dirty  a  lite  colour  hangs  from  the  iied 
of  the  reindeer,  hi  sumnu'r  the  body  is  brown  abt)ve  an; 
Avhite  beneath  ;  in  winter,  long-haired  and  white. 

Its  antlers  are  very  ditferent  from  those  of  the  stag,  haviiij 
broad  palinated  summits,  and  bra.ching  back  to  the  lenytlij 
of  three  or  four  feet.  Their  Aveight  is  frequently  very  ceii- 
sideral)le — twenty  or  twenty-live  ])ounds  ;  and  it  is  remark- 
able that  both  sexes  IniA^e  horns,  Avhile  in  all  other  niembti- 
of  Hie  deer  race  the  males  alone  are  in  possession  of  tlii' 
ornament  or  Aveapon. 

The  female  brings  forth  in  May  a  single  calf,  rarely  tw 
This  is  small  and  Aveak,  but  after  a  fcAV  days  it  follows  ll; 
mother,  avIk*  suckles  her  young  but  a  short  time,  as  t  issooEJ 
able  to  seek  and  to  find  its  food. 

The  reindeer  gives  very  little  milk — at  the  A*ery  utmos 


FOOD  OF  TUK  Ki:i.\in:i:i{. 


19 


ivinclv 


IV 


\vi\in\ 


•y    ones 

DNV  (locV 

base  tc 
lie  snow 
1  Ibrincil 
Llrag"  till' 
io;  siKtw- 

11KIVC-Ilf> 

'-pad  <»ii 


likewise 

no  siuall 
ilces,  ami 

ioTatinlb 


inai" 


■leal. 


ho  eausi 


}e 


(li^'it 
t  n\ 


s  <i 


()(> 


Mil 


aisos  It- 


jove  aiM 


'•,  liaviu. 


lie 


lei  1  lit 


|very  '•"i'- 
vein  ark 
lineinluT 
f  tlii 


111  t> 


11 


ows 


ilti'i-  111''  VfiiiiiLi'  has  been  weaned,  a  boftlet'iil  daily;   l>ut  the 


<|iialily  i>  e\( 
if 


)nsi.sl>   a 


I'lleiit,  for  it  is  aneomiiionly  thick  and  nutritious. 
Inidst  entirely  of  ereani,  so  that  a  ^'ivat  deal  of 
wali'i'caii  lie  aihled  l».'ti»re  it  beediiies  inferior  to  the  best  et»\v- 
iiiilk.  Its  taste  is  exeelleut,  but  the  Ijutter  iiuub'  from  it  is 
raiicid  and  hanlly  to  be  eaten,  while  the  ebeese  is  vei-y  j^'odd. 
The  (-lily  fond  of  the  reindeer  durin,4'  Avinter  et^nsists  of 
iii<i.>s,  and  the  most  surprising"  eireumstauei'  in  his  liis'.ory  is 
till'  instinct,  (ir  the  extraordinary  olfactory  powers,  whereby 
he  is  ciiahjcd  to  discover  it  wdieii  hidden  beneath  the  snow. 
Ihiwcvcr  (h-cp  the  Liclnni  rdtxj'tfi'r'nin^  I'li'V  be  buried,  the 
animal  is  aware  of  its  jiresciice  the  moment  he  comes  to  the 
s|Mit.  and  tJiis  kind  of  food  is  never  so  an'reeable  to  him  as 
when  he  di^'s  for  it  himself  In  his  manner  of  doing"  this  he 
is  icinai'lcahly  a<b"oit.  Ibiving"  first  ascertained,  by  thrusting 
liis  iiin/./lc  intd  the  snow,  whether  the  moss  lies  below  or  not. 


iie'^ins  inak'ing  a 


hole   witli   his  for<'   feet,    and   continue 


w. liking  until  at  length  he  uncovers  the  lichen.  No  instance 
has  ever  occurred  of  a  reiiahn'r  making"  such  a  cavity  without 
(liscovering  the  moss  he  seeks.  In  summer  tlieir  tbod  is  <if  a 
ditiei'eiit  nature;  they  are  then  })astiired  upon  green  lu-rbs  or 


1  lie  lea\cs  of  tri 


es. 


Juduiim"  from  the  jicl 


len  s  appearand'  in 


l!ie  lint  iiioiilhs,  when  it  is  dry  and  brittle,  one  might  easilv 
WMiidcv  tliat  so  large  a  (piadi'uped  as  the  reindeer  should 
make  it  iiis  favourite  food  and  fatten  U[)on  it  ;  but  towards 
llie  iiioiilh  of  September,  the  licdien  becomes  soft,  tender,  and 
the  ncrl;         damp,  with  a   taste  like  wheat-bran.      Tn  this  state  its  luxii- 


Tiaiil  aiK 


loWC 


rv  ramitications  somewli  it  resemble  the  leav 


es 


(if  endive,  and  are  as  white  as  sno 


w, 


'riitiiia'h  domesticated  since  time  immemorial,  the  reindeer 
li;i>  only  pai'tly  been  brought  uiuh.'r  tlu'  yoke  of  man,  and 
^^allder■^  in  large  wild  herds  both  in  the  North  American 
A\;i-;rs,  wlicrc  it   lias   never  yet    been  re(biced  to  servituih-, 


111 


llie  forests  and  tumh'as  of  the  Old  World. 


Aiiii'i'i 


ca,  w 


here  it  is  called  'caribou,'  it  extends  fi-on 


l,ilii,id(ii"    to    Midville    Fsland    and    Washingt(m    Land;    in 
lirelv  tW'         1  iiepc  and  Asia,  it  is  found  from  Laidand  and  Norway,  and 
i    '111  tlif  mountains  of  jMongolia  and  the  banks  of  tlie  Ufa  as 
■^  Is  SCI         ^  '  ''^  Xo\aja  Zemlya  and  Spitzljergen.      Many  centuries  ago 
-    pvehalily  during"  the  glacial  period— its  rang"e  was  still  more 


K  ntnio> 


20 


TIIK    I'OLAIf    WOULD. 


oxinisivo,  iis  rcindiMM"  bonos  nvc  fr('([U('nt1y  ImiiikI  in  Froudi 
iiiid  (Jcniiiiii  ciivcs,  inuT  bear  tcstinioiiy  to  the  severity  (»!'  tlie 
climate  whieli  at  tbat  time  rei^'iie*!  in  Central  I<]ur<)pi>,  for  tin- 
I'eindeor  is  a  cold-loviii;^"  animal,  and  will  not  tlirive  under  si 
milder  sky.  All  attempts  to  prolon<j;'  its  lite  in  onr  /oolo^'iciil 
j4'ardens  have  tailed,  and  even  in  the  royal  park  at  Stockliolia 
H()i>"<^'ner  saw  some  of  these  animals,  wliich  were  quite  iani^nid 
and  emaeiated  dnrijig  the  summer,  although  care  had  been 
taken  to  provide  them  with  a  cool  grotto  to  whieh  they  eouM 
retire  dnring  the  warnun*  hours  of  the  day.  Tn  summer  tlic 
reindeer  can  eniov  h-'alt:<  only  in  the  fresh  mountain  air  or 
along  the  braiMug  >  a-sii  'i'e,  and  has  as  great  a  longing  for  ii 
low  temp(n-aturc  as  man  i";  I  he  genial  warmth  of  his  Hresidf 
in  winter. 

The  reindeer  is  eas  !^    ti-nied    ;.n<l  soon  gets  accustomed  id 
its  master,  whose  society  u  ]ove^•,  iii''acted  as  it  were  l)y  ;i 
kind   of   innate   sympathy;    for,  indike    all    other    domestic 
animals,  it  is  l)y  no  means  dependent  on  nnm  for  its  subsist- 
ence, bnt   finds    its  nourishment  alone,  and   wanders  abfmt 
freely  in  summer  and  in  winter  witlumt  ever  being*  enclosed 
in    a    stable.     These  qualities   are  inestimable  in  countries 
where  it  wonl<l  be  utterly  impossil)le  to  kee]>  any  domestic 
aninuil  reipiiring-  shelter  and  stores  of  provisions  dviring"  the 
long'  winter  months,  and   make   the  reindeer  the   tit    com- 
panion  of  the  northern  nomad,  Avhose  simple  wants  it  almosi 
wholly  su]>])lies.     During  his  Avanderings,  it  carries  his  tent 
and  scanty  household  furniture,  or  drags  his  sledge  over  the 
snow.     On  account  of  the  Aveakness  of  its  back-bone,  it  is 
less  tit  for  riding,  and  requires  to  be  mounted  with  care,  as  ;i 
violent   slnxdc  easily  dislocates  its  A'ertebral   column.     Yen 
Avould  liardly  suppose  the  reindeer  to  be  the  same  animal  avIk'ii 
languidly  creeping'  along  under  a  rider's  AA-eight,  as  Avlieti. 
unencund)ered  by  a  load,  it  vaults  Avith  the  lightiu'ss  of  a  binl 
over  the  obstacles  in  its  Avay  to  obey  the  call  of  its  master, 
The  reindeer  can  be  easily  trainc^d  to  drag  a  sledge,  but  great 
care  must  hi)  taken  not  to  beat  or  otherAviso  illtreat  it,  as 
it  then  becomes  obstinate  and  quite  unmanageable.     When 
forced  to  drag  too  heavy  a  load,  or  taxed  in  any  Avay  abovo 
its  streng'th,  it   not  seldom  turns  round  upon  its  tyrant,  mul 


attacks  him  Avith  its  horns  and  fore  feet. 


o  saAT  liimso 


L'lf 


I  I'lPlii 

tit     S I ■ 

aiiini; 
A  ft 

everv 
U'"0(|, 

di'lii-ni 
h'Sl.   |\ 

I'lidilii 

In  llie 
.llid  uti 
hi.Ciis  ; 

til  Ml  (,f 

'"!•    tlli: 

lll    Toi', 

s.'lil    to 

•  Ife  e.\1i 

'I'illis 

.,   Ii.il-dly  1 

*  of   (Ih. 

iIm'  Sjiiii 

,    ini'iitiipii 

with  a  'j; 

l.ii'  MKire 

The  r, 

.^'Ml's,  hu 

tiiiiii  six 

W'df.  and 
■  which  he 
.  iiiid  is  sai 
.  !•-   a  hi  Mlt 
„:iiid    the 
[f^cliihiiiit; 
^'U'l'eeing 

-ll'ilhh.  ,,( 
F'''l''    to    s( 

hat   ii   cat 

pi 'I  Ml    tl'i'Cs 

r  '"''■''  it  a 
U'h,.„    , 


TiiK  i:i:iM)i:i;ij  .\.m»  its  knkmiks. 


21 


■cni-li 
f  til" 

idov  ii 
)o-iciil 
diolni 

L    l)Ofli 

■  coiiM 
icr  the 
aiv  <iv 
(>•  tor  !i 
iiresitli' 

mod  t(i 

nuostic 
subsist- 
s  about 
lic'lost'il 
uiitrios 
oincstic 
ni^'  ilu' 
:    coin- 
aliuosi 
lis  tent 
vcr  ilit' 


IVmiii  its  t'inv,  lit'  is  llicii  ()I>li<4'(Ml  lo  ovcvtuiMi  his  slt'tl^-c.  ;iii<l 
in  si'ils  ;i  I't'lu^v  uiHltT  its  iKittitiii  until  tlif  ni;;'*'  «>f  tlir 
niiiiiial  li;is  abiitt'd. 

Alter  tin-  (lentil  oi'  tlir  n-iiKleer,  it  iiiiiy  truly  he  s;iul  that 
evei'_\  ]i;n't  of  its  budj  is  put  to  some  use.  The  llesh  is  very 
u'ood.  iiiid  tilt,'  toii<i'U('  and  man'tiw  art'  ('oHsitlcrcd  a  iiTcat 
(lelii  ;ny.  Till'  Ido.iil,  of  which  not  a  drop  is  allowed  tt)  be 
lost,  is  either  drank  warm  or  made  up  intt)  a  kind  of  l)laid<- 
piiddiii^'.  The  skin  furnishes  not  only  (•lt)tliiny'  imjiervious 
to  tlie  cold.  Imt  tents  and  Vx'dtline' ;  jind  spoons,  knife-handles, 
;iiid  other  household  utensils  are  made  out  of  tht>  bones  and 
lioiiis:  till'  latter  servo  also,  like  the  cdaws,  tor  the  prejiara- 
tioii  (if  an  excellent  <;'luo,  which  the  Chinese,  \vlit>  buy  them 
i'oi'  this  purpose  of  the  I^ussians.  use  as  a  nutritious  jelly, 
111  Toniea  tho  skins  of  new-born  reindeer  are  preparetl  and 
sent  to  St.  Petersburg'  to  bo  manufactured  into  <^loves,  which 
life  extremely  soft,  but  very  ik'ar. 

Tims  the  ct»i-oa-nut  palm,  the  tree  of  a  hundred  uses, 
liaiilly  rentiers  a  <4'reater  variety  of  sei'vices  tt>  the  islanders 
of  the  Indian  (Jcean  than  the  reintleer  to  the  liaplantlei' t)r 
ilie  Saiiiojetle;  and,  to  the  htmour  of  these  barbarians  be  it 
iiieiitioiietl,  they  treat  their  invaluable  friend  and  companion 
with  a  e'l'ateful  att'ecti(»n  \vhicli  mi^ht  serve  as  an  example  to 
r.M'  iiioi'e  civilist'd  nations. 

The  reindt'or  attains  an  aj^c  of  from  twenty  tt)  twenty-tive 

\  ears,  hut  in  its  th>mosticated  state  it  is  g'onorally  killed  when 

ti'iiii  sixttiten  years  old.    Its  most  dan^'orous  enemies  are  tht- 

wojt'.  and  the  elulton  t»i'  wolverine  {(rnli>  hurcdlis  or  (irrfina^)^ 

|\\liirli  helon<4S  to  the  bloodthirsty  marten  and  weasel  family, 

hiiiil  is  saitl  tt>  be  of  nnconimon  fiereonoss  and  strength.      It 

lis  ahout   the  size  of  a  largo  badger,  between  which  animal 

iiiinl    the   |K)le-cat    it   seems    to  be   intermediate,   nearly   re- 

1^'  nihliije   the  foi'mer  in   its  general   figure   and   aspect,  aiitl 

liiuivciiig    with    the    latter   as   tt)  its  dentition.     No  dog    is 

piliahle  of  nrastoring  a  glutton,  antl  even  the  wolf  is  hanlly 

d'le  ttt  scare   it  from  its  proy.      [ts  feet    are  very  short,  so 

Hiat  it  (  aniitit   run  swiftly,  but  it  clindjs  with  groat  facility 

^ilit'ii  trees,  t)r  ascends  oven  almost  perpendicular  rock-walls, 

here  it  also  seeks  a  refuge  when  pm'suod. 

^\  lieii   it    perceives   a    lu-nl   of   reindeer   browsijig  la'ai"   a 


v> 


TUH    I'OLAK    \VOIir<D. 


wood  or  ii  pivcipiee,  it  f^euorally  lies  in  wait  upon  a  branch 
or  .sonic  hiu'h  eljlt',  and  sprinyH  down  npon  tlio  first  aninml 
tliiit  comes  witliin  its  reaeli.  Sonietinics  also  it  steals  ini- 
awares  u}K)n  its  prey,  and  suddenly  bounding-  upon  its  back, 
kills  it  by  a  sin^-le  bite  in  tlie  neck.  Many  fables  worthy  ot 
Miineblianseu  have  b«'en  told  about  its  voracity;  for  in- 
stance, that  it  is  able  to  devour  two  reindeer  at  one  meal, 
and  that,  Avhen  its  stomach  is  exorbitantly  distended  willi 
food,  it  will  press  itself  between  two  trees  or  stones  to  make 
room  for  a,  n<'w  repast.  It  will,  indeed,  kill  in  one  ni^-ht  six 
or  eiyht  reindeer,  but  it  contents  itself  with  suckin<>"  their 
blood,  as  the  weasel  does  with  fowls,  and  eats  no  more  at  our 
meal  than  any  other  carnivorous  animal  of  its  own  size. 

Besides  the  attacks  of  its  mij^htier  enemies,  the  reindeer  is 
subject  to  the  pers<.'cutions  of  two  species  of  fjad-fly,  Avhiili 
torment  it  exceedingly.  The  one  (C/v'.s•^^^^s•  tardudi),  called 
Hurbma  by  the  Laplanders,  deposits  its  o-hitinous  ey*>'S  upon 
the  animal's  back.  The  larva,*,  on  creeping-  out,  immediately 
bore  themselves  into  the  skin,  where  by  their  motion  ami 
suction  they  cause  so  many  small  swelling's  or  boils,  w'hicli 
•^•radually  ^-row^  to  the  size  of  an  inch  or  more  in  diameter, 
with  an  openinj^  at  the  top  of  each,  through  which  the  larv;i 
may  be  seen  imbedded  in  a  purulent  Huid.  Frequently 
the  whole  back  of  the  animal  is  covered  with  these  boils. 
which,  by  drainin«ji'  its  fluids,  produce  emaciation  and  disease. 
As  if  aware  of  this  dang'cr,  the  reindeer  runs  wild  ami 
furious  as  soon  as  it  hears  the  buzzing"  of  the  fly,  and  seeks  ;i 
refu<»-e  in  the  nearest  water. 

The  other  species  of  <j;-ad-fly  {(h'sh-in^  ))ns(iUK)  lays  its  eL;'u> 
in  the'  nostrils  of  the  reindeer;  aiul  the  larvre,  boring  them- 
selves into  the  fances  iind  beneath  the  tongue  of  the  \)t»'\ 
animal,  are  a  great  source  of  annoyance,  as  is  shown  by  it- 
frequent  snifHing  and  shaking  of  the  head. 

A  pestilential  disorder  like  the  rinderpest  Avill  sometime!  | 
sweep  away  Avhole  lierds.  Thus  in  a  few  Aveeks  a  rich  Liiii-| 
lander  or  Samojede  may  be  reduced  to  poverty,  and  the  pronl 
possessor  of  several  thousaiuls  of  reindeer  be  compelled  ti 
seek  the  precarious  livelihood  of  the  northern  fishernum. 

The  elk  or  moose-deer  {Crrvni^  alces)  is  another  member  I'tj 
the  cervine  race  peculiar  to  the  forests  of  the  north.     In  8i»  j 


It  is 
sliapi 
sluD't 
Weigl 

I'l'oin 
legs, 
o\er  ( 

of   till 

le^S  a 

<  'iesai', 
llie  ({( 

liJIVc  Si 

.-■iiigle 
lliat   b 
iiiid  hii 
.V(  p 
];ast  P: 

tile  IIK 
It  is  I. 
itself  1, 
iiml  (ilji 
Vsei'k  a  1 
ing  to  t 
tains,  w 

'fit  tiiids, 
;  ■which    i 
;-jliannles: 
^ler<.city 

:;|"\ig<Mir,  ] 
,twitji    its 

'.  d''.\fruiis 
>liy  and 

the  Inivs 

piiasi'd 

..'"Vered 

^vi'ak  to 

TllOH' 

<,  we  Ii 


TIIK    KLK    Oli    .MOOSK-DKKH. 


23 


M'ilUcll 

inimiil 

Is  ini-          ': 

s  ini<-'l<,          -^ 

vtliy  i.f         2 

tor  iii- 

i  iiieal 

3d  with 

0  111  alec 

io-lit  six 

i(T  tht'iv 

'E5 

0  at  one 

--I 

i/,0. 

;;-| 

indoor  is 

;',,i 

jTj  Avliieli 

),   callf'l 

I'u's  upon 

'^l 

lodiatcly 

tion  and 

fjv 

Is,  whic'li 

¥ 

liamotiT. 

the  larv.i 

•oqiiontly 

so   boils. 

disoaso. 

vild   au'l 

il  sool^s  a 

1  its  i'ii'S- 

i<r  tlioin- 

'» 

the  poo 

WW  by  it 

>metinu 

> 

ich  Liq 

- 

ho  pron 

il 

pelk'd  1 

1 

mum. 


km 


iber  ofl 
III  siA 


it  is  far  sni)orior  to  tho  statif,  but  it  oaniiot  boast  of  an  olopmt 
sliaiM',  tlio  head  bcin-;'  disproportionatoly  larov,  the  neok 
short  and  tliicic.  and  its  innnonso  horns,  whii-h  .soniotinios 
Avriyh  near  lifty  p(»unds,  oach  diiathio-  almost  iinmcdiatoly 
from  the  l»as('  into  a  broad  palmated  form;  Avhih,>  its  k»n<j;- 
l«';^s,  hi^h  shoulders,  and  heavy  upper  lip  hanoino*  very  much 
over  (he  lower,  o-ive  it  an  uncouth  appearance.  The  colour 
of  till'  elk  is  a  (lark  o-rcyish  brown,  but  nuich  paler  on  the 
[c^s  and  beneath  the  tail. 

W'c  owe  the  first  <h'scription  of  this  ;^'io*iintic  (U'or  to  Julius 
Ciisiir,  in  whose  times  it  was  still  a  common  inhabitant  of 
the  (iennan  forests.  P.nt  the  conqueror  of  (hull  can  hardly 
have  seen  it  himself,  or  he  would  not  have  ascribed  to  it  a 
single  horn,  placed  in  the  middle  of  the  forehead,  or  said 
that  both  sexes  are  perfectly  alike,  for  the  female  is  smaller 
ami  has  no  antlers. 

Ai  present  the  elk  is  still  found   in  the  swampy  forests  of 
Hast  Prussia,  Lithuania  and  Poland,  but  it  chietly  resides  in 
the   nil  ire  northern  woods  of  Russia,  Sib<'ria,  and  America. 
It    is   a    mild  and  harndess   animal,  principally  supporting- 
itself  by  l)r<i\vsin«:f  the  boughs  of  willows,  asps,  service  trees, 
and  nthcr  soft  S[»ecies  of  wood.    It  does  not,  lik(>  the  reindeer, 
srek  a  refuse  ao-ainst  the  attacks  of  the  o-ad-tlios,  by  wander- 
in;^'  to  the  coasts  of  the  sea,  or  retreatino-  to  the  bare  moun- 
tains, where  it  would  soon  perish  for  the  want  of  adequate 
innd,  l)ut  pluntj;'es  up  to  the  nose  into  the  next  river,  where 
it  finds,  moreover,  a  species  of  water-grass  [Fi'^fuvn  Jhn'tnus) 
\\\\'\r]i    it   likes   to  feed  upon.     Though  naturally   mild  and 
li,irnd(>ss,   it  displays   a  high   degree  of  courage,  ami   even 
(fiiMcity  wln.'u  suddenly  attacked;  defending  itself  with  great 
^i-nnv,  not  only  with  ilo  horns,  but  also  by  striking  violently 
Avith    its  fore  feet,   in    the   use   of  which   it  is  particularly 
d'  xtious.     It  is  generally  caught  in  traps,  as  it  is  extremely 
sliv  and  watchful,  and  tinds  an  easy  retreat  in  the  swamp  or 
tin'  forest.     The  oidy  time  of  the  year  when  it  can  be  easily 
(liiist'd    is    in    the    sjiring,    when    the    softened    snow    gets 
ci'Mved  durhig  the  night  with  a  thin  crust  of  ice  Avhich  is  too 
\\i  ;ik  to  bear  the  aniinars  weight. 

Thongh  not  ranging  so  far  north  as  the  reindeer  or  the 

Ik,  we  thid  in  the  Old  World  the  red-deer  [Cervus  elaphvs). 


u 


TiiH  I'oi.AU  Would. 


ill  Iho  vicinity  of  Drouthcini  in  Norway,  uud  aloii^  with  tlic 
roebuck  boyond  Lake  Baikal  in  Siberia,  wliile  in  America  tlie 
lar<j;e-eareJ  deer  {Cervnx  m(u-ri>f'ix)^  and  the  Wa^uti  or  Canada 
sta<4"  {('rrcuH  .stniiHfnf(t-ci-i'at<),  I'xtend  tlieir  exciu'sions  beyond 
55°  of  northern  iatitnde.  Tlie  latter  is  nnich  lar<4;er  and  of 
a  stronfrer  make  than  the  Euroi)ean  red-deer,  frequently 
^Towin<4'  to  the  hei<,dit  of  our  tallest  oxen,  and  })oHse.ssin«4 
M-reat  activity  as  well  as  strength.  The  Hesh  is  little  prized, 
but  the  hide,  when  made  into  leather  after  the  Indian  fashion, 
is  said  not  to  turn  hard  in  dryin;^",  after  beinj^  wet — a  quality 
which  justly  entitles  it  to  a  preference  over  almost  every 
other  kind  of  leather. 

One  of  the  njost  remarkable  quadrupeds  of  the  hi^li 
northern  rej^ions  is  the  nuisk-ox  {Oflbox  nii>sch((tnx),  which  liy 
some  naturalists  has  been  considered  as  intermediate  between 
the  sheep  and  the  ox.  It  is  about  the  heig'ht  of  ii  deer,  l)iit 
of  much  stouter  proportions.  The  horns  are  very  broad  iit 
the  base,  almost  meeting  on  the  forehead,  and  curving'  doAvii- 
wards  between  the  eye  and  ears  until  about  the  level  of  the 
mouth,  when  they  turn  upw'ards.  Its  long  thick  brown  or 
black  hair  luinging  down  below  the  middle  of  the  leg,  and 
covering  on  all  parts  of  the  animal  a  tine  kind  of  soft  ash- 
coloured  wool,  which  is  of  the  Hnest  description  and  capal)le 
of  forming  the  mc)st  beantiful  fabrics  manufactured,  enables 
it  to  remain  even  during  the  winter  beyond  70°  of  northern 
latitude.  In  spring,  it  wanders  over  the  ice  as  far  us 
Melville  Island,  or  even  Smith's  Soiiiid,  where  a  number  of 
its  bones  were  found  by  Dr.  Kane.  In  September  it  Avitli- 
draws  more  to  the  south,  and  si)ends  the  coldest  months  on 
the  verge  of  the  forest-region.  Like  the  reindeer,  it  subsists 
chiefly  on  lichens  and  grasses.  It  runs  nimbly,  and  climbs 
hills  and  rocks  with  great  ease.  Its  fossil  remains,  or  tlio.so 
of  a  very  analogous  species,  have  been  discovered  in  Siberia : 
at  present  it  is  exclusively  confined  to  the  New  World. 

In  the  Kocky  Mountains,  from  the  Mexican  Cordillera- 
plateaux  as  far  as  08°  N.  lat.,  dwells  the  wild  sheep  {OcIk 
moiitaud),  distinguished  by  the  almost  circular  bend  of  its 
large,  triangular,  transversely  striped  horns,  from  its  relativo 
the  Siberian  argali  {Ovia  argali),  which  is  supposed  to  be  the 
parent  of  our  domestic  sheep,  and  far  surpasses  it  in  size 
and  delieacv  of  flesh.     Both  the  American  and  the  Asiatic 


AKCI'K     lAlNA. 


Sfi 


ipal)U' 

lablc's 

•tliovii 

"ill-   us 

jer  ul 

Kvitli- 
ths  oil 
Ibsists 
lliuibs 
|tli»'f<t' 
jeria : 

lllera- 

)f  its 

lativo 

»e  the 

si'A' 

iatic 


wild  s]n'('|»  ;in'  in  tlif  lii^-hest  dco-rce  iietivo  and  vii^'orons, 
iiso'iidiny  altrupt  pivt-ipii-cs  with  i^Tcat  ay'llity,  and,  like 
tin-  wild  '^•••at,  ^'oiiM^  over  the  niirrowt'st  and  must  dangerous 
|i;issi's  with  [u'vtt'i't  satbtv. 

Aiiioii'^'thc  caniivorons  (inadrupt'ds  of  tht'  n(»vth('rn  l•e^•i(>ns, 
iiKiiiv,  like  th<'  lynx,  the  wolf,  tlio  bear,  the  ^-hitton,  and 
ctlicr  nu'iuhei's  of  the  weiisel  tiilte,  have  their  lu'ad-qnarters 
ill  the  forests,  and  only  oceasionally  roam  over  tlie  tnndras  ; 
but  th(.>  Arctic  fox  {Onu's  Jiiiiitjtnx)  abnost  exehisively  inhabits 
the  treeless  Wiistes  that  frino-c  the  Polar  ocean,  and  is  fonnd 
on  idmost  all  the  islands  that  lie  buried  in  its  bosom.  This 
pretty  little  creature,  which  in  winter  ;L;'rows  perfectly  white, 
knows  how  to  protect  itself  ay'ainst  the  most  intense  cold, 
eitlier  bv  seeking  a  refn«je  in  the  clefts  of  rocks,  or  bv 
Iturrowiny  to  a  considerable  depth  in  a  sandy  soil. 

It  principally  preys  upon  lennnin^'s,  stoats,  polar  hares,  as 
Will  iis  upon  all  kinds  of  water-fowl  and  their  ey^^s ;  but, 
when  j>in(*hed  l)y  hnno-er,  it  does  not  disdain  the  carcases  of 
lisli.  or  the  molluscs  and  crustaceans  it  may  ch.ince  to  pick 
np  on  the  shore.  Its  enemies  are  the  fjlutton,  the  snowy 
owl.  and  man,  who,  from  the  equator  to  the  poles,  leaves  no 
creature  unmolested  that  can  in  any  way  satisfy  his  wants. 

The  lenuiiin^^'s,  of  which  there  are  many  species,  are  small 
ntdeuts,  ptculiar  to  the  Arctic  regions,  both  in  the  New  and 
in  the  Old  World,  where  they  are  found  as  far  to  the  north 
as  vcf^'etation  extends.  They  live  on  gTass,  ro(»ts,  the  shoots 
of  the  willow,  and  the  dwarf  birch,  but  chieHy  on  lichens. 
They  do  not  gather  hoards  of  provisions  for  the  winter, 
hut  live  upon  what  they  find  beneath  the  snow.  They 
-I'ldoni  prove  injurious  to  man,  as  the  regions  they  inhabit 
are  generally  situated  beyond  the  limits  of  agriculture. 
I'roni  the  voles,  to  Avhom  they  are  closely  allied,  they  are 
distinguished  by  having  the  foot-sole  covered  with  stiff  hairs, 
and  by  the  strong  crooked  (daws  with  which  their  fore  feet 
;iie  armed.  The  best  known  species  is  the  Norwegian  lem- 
ming {Iti'mmusnorwcfiicus),  which  is  found  on  the  high  nioun- 
tains  of  the  Dovrefjeld,  and  further  to  the  north  on  the  dry 
parts  of  the  tundra,  where  it  inhabits  small  burrows  under 
slones  or  in  the  moss.  Its  long  and  thick  hair  is  of  a  tawny 
(•<  il(  MU-'  and  prettily  nuu-ked  with  black  spots.  The  migrations 
of  the   lemming   have  been  grossly  exaggerated   by   Olaus 


2U 


TIIK    l'()l,AI{    WOIM.I). 


Ma|,Mius  and  P()nt(>[»i)i(lim,  to  wlunii  tho  iiaiiiriil  liiMt(»rv  nt 
tlu^  North  owes  so  mniiy  liil)I<'H.  As  tlioy  bn'cd  si'Vi'nil  tinus 
ill  the  year,  pnMliu-iii;;"  live  or  six  at  a  l)irtli,  tlu'v  of  coiu'si' 
imilliply  very  last  under  i'avoiiriiblo  cin'innHtaiiees,  and  aic 
I Ih'ii  forced  to  leave  the  district  which  is  no  hni^er  abh- id 
atl'ord  them  food.  Jiut  this  takes  j»lace  very  seldrni,  for 
when  Mr.  Hrehin*  visited  Scandinavia,  ih«.'  people  (»ii  the  I)o- 
vrefjehl  knew  nothing-  about  the  nii^'ratioiis  of  the  Icinniinii', 
and  his  encpiiries  on  the  subject  prov«'d  e<]ually  friiith'ss  in 
Lai»laiid  and  in  Finland.  At  all  events  it  is  a  fortuii'ite  cir- 
cumstance that  the  h'mmin^s  have  so  many  eiiemi(>s,  as  their 
ra[>id  muhi[)licatiou  mi<4ht  else  endaii<4'er  the  balance  of 
existence  in  the  northern  retjfions.  The  inclemencies  of  the 
climiito  are  a  chief  means  for  kei'pin^  them  in  check.  A 
"wet  summer,  an  early  cold  and  snowless  autumn  deHtr(»y 
them  by  millions,  and  then  of  course  years  are  necessary  td 
recruit  tlu'ir  numbers.  With  the  exception  of  the  bear  ami 
the  hed^eho^',  they  are  pursued  by  all  the  northern  carnivora. 
The  Avolf,  the  fox,  the  d-hitton,  tho  marten,  the  ermine, 
devour  them  with  avidity,  and  a  yood  lemming'  season  is  ;i 
time  of  unusual  plenty  for  the  hund-ry  Laplander's  do<^^  The 
snowy  owl,  whose  dense  plumage  enables  it  to  be  a  constant 
resident  on  tho  tundra,  almost  exclusively  frequents  thos( 
places  wIkhv  lemming's,  its  favourite  food,  are  to  bo  found ; 
the  buzzards  are  constantly  active  in  their  destruction;  the 
crow  feeds  its  yoiui;^-  with  lemmind-s  ;  and  even  the  poor 
Lap,  when  pressed  by  hunger,  seizes  a  stick,  and,  for  want 
of  better  yame,  <j;-oes  out  lemmino'-huntino-,  and  rejoices 
when  ho  can  kill  a  sutticiont  number  for  his  dinner. 

Several  birds,  such  as  the  snowy  owl  and  the  iitarmioan 
{L(«loi)ns  albux),  which  can  easily  procure  its  food  Tinder  the 
snow,  winter  in  the  highest  latitudes  ;  but  by  far  tho  greater 
number  are  merely  summer  visitants  of  the  Arctic  regions. 
After  the  little  bunting,  the  first  arrivals  in  spring  are  tlu' 
snow-geese,  who  likewise  are  the  lirst  to  leave  the  drearv 
regions  of  the  north  on  their  southerly  migration.  TLf 
common  and  king  eider  duck,  the  Brent  geese,  the  gi-eat 
northern,  black  and  red  throated  divers,  are  the  next  to  make 
tlnnr  appearance,  followed  by  the  pintail  and  longtail  ducks 


'llliistrirtL.>s  Thicrlebon.'    lliklburgliauseii,  186.'). 


.MI(iUAT(»UV    KIKIiS. 


27 


n-  tlu' 
L'eater 
;-ioiis. 
e  thf 
roiin 
The 


S(  I 


(„,/.s'  < ,1  inhiriifii  if  iiliiri'iilis),  tlic  liitcst  visiters  of  the  sciiMuii. 
TIh'si'  liii'ils  f,ft'ii('i'iillv  liikt'  tlit'ir  (Icitiirtiin'  in  <Ii<'  siiiMc  ordrr 
;is  <li''y  iirrivc.  The  [)c'ri<Ml  of  tlicir  sliiy  is  Imt  sliurt,  l)iif 
ill  •'••  iii-csriicf  iiiipiirts  a  \v<iii<lri'full_v  clit'i'rful  iispt'ct  lu 
r.'  Sill  otlit'i"  <  iiiit's  so  (Icsrrtctl  iiiitl  <lrt'!ii'_v.  As  soon  iis 
till'  yoniiy-  iirc  siiHi  'iciitly  II<m1;4'(,'(1,  they  aj^'iiiii  lu'tiiki*  tlirni- 
s.'lvcs  fo  lln'  soiitliwai'tl  ;  till'  cliiiriictcr  of  the  st-asim  iiiui'h 
iiilliK'iifiiiLj'  tin'  jM'i-iod  of  their  depiirtinv. 

As  till'  !is  iiiiiii  hiis  priietrnted,  on  the  most  northern  islets 
(if  S[»it/Itei';^'en,  or  on  the  ice-hloclced  shores  of  Kennedy 
('li;iniiel,  III''  eider  duck  and  others  of  the  Arctic  anatidie 
Kiiild  Iheir  nests  ;  and  there  is  no  renson  to  (h)ul)t  thiit,  if  the 
|Mp|i'  liiis  hreedin<^*-}»liices  for  them,  it  ri^-eehoes  with  their 
ciii's.  Nor  need  they  fear  to  j>lnn;4'e  into  the  very  heart  of 
tlif  Arctic  /oiu',  for  the  tliy-ht  of  a  j^-iKtse  bein^-  forty  or  (illy 
milt  iiii  hour,  these  birds  may  breed  in  the  rem<»test  northern 
",  iind  in  a  few  hours,  <»n  a  fall  of  deep  autumn  snow, 
themselves  by  their  swiftness  of  vvini^-  to  better  feed- 
iiin-  o'r(i\nnls. 

( )ii('  (if  the  most  iutorestin;^'  of  the  Arctic  birds  is  the  snow- 
liiiiitiii;^"  [I'lirfrojthtoti's  nlralls),  which  may  properly  be  called 
llir  [tolar  sin^'in;^-  bird,  as  it  breeds  iu  the  most  northern 
isles,  such  as  Spit/Jnn'j^vn  aud  Novajii  Zenilya,  or  on  the 
highest  iiiountiiins  of  the  Dovrefjeld  iu  Seandiiiiivia,  where 
it  enlivens  the  fn<>'itive  summer  with  its  short  but  a^'reeable 
I II  It's,  sounding'  doubly  sweet  fr(»m  tlie  treeless  wastes  in  which 
till  y  tire  heard.  It  invariably  builds  its  nest,  Avliich  it  lines 
villi  I't'iithers  and  down,  in  the  fissures  i>f  numntaiii  rocks 
iif  under  lar^'o  stones,  and  the  entrance  is  <4'enerally  so  narrow 
lis  merely  to  allow  the  parent  birds  to  })ass.  The  ri'iiuirkably 
dense  winter  plumaj^'e  of  the  snow-bunting"  es})ecially  qualifies 
il  for  a  northern  residence,  and  when  in  ciiptivity  it  will 
liillier  bear  the  severest  cold  than  even  a  moderate  de<''ree 
"I'  Wiinuth.  In  its  broediug'-places  it  lives  almost  exclusively 
ell  insects,  particularly  ynats  :  during  the  Avinter  it  feeds  on 
all  sorts  of  seeds,  and  then  famine  frequently  compels  it  to 
wander  to  a  less  rigoroiis  clinuite. 

riie  Lapland  bunting  {Centt'ophanes  hijrpoHicns),  whose 
white  iiiid  black  plunuige  is  agreeably  diversified  with  red,  is 
likewise  an  inhabitant  of  the  higher  latitudes,  where  it  is 
tie(|ueutly  Seen  iu  the  barren   grounds  and   tundras.      Both 


n 


TIIK    1'OI.All    WORLD. 


tlioso  ])ir(ls  are  distiiiouisliod  by  the  very  lon£>'  claw  of  their 
hind  toe,  a  structure  which  enables  thein  to  run  about  with 
ease  upon  the  snow. 

Aniono-  the  raptorial  birds  of  the  Arctic  regions,  the  sea- 
eaud<!  {Ihiliivtn.s  nlhlcUht)  holds  a  conspicaou<  rank.  At  his 
a|)proach  the  <^'ull  and  the  aulc  conceid  themselves  in  the 
lissures  of  the  rocks,  but  are  frequently  drayf»'ed  forth  by 
ilieir  relentless  enemy.  The  divers  are,  according  to  Wali- 
lengren,  more  imperilled  from  his  attacks  than  those  sea- 
birds  which  do  not  plunge,  for  the  latter  ris(>  into  the  air 
as  soon  as  their  piercing  eye  espies  the  universally  dreaded 
tyrant,  and  thus  escape  ;  while  the  former,  blindly  trusting  to 
the  element  in  which  they  are  capable  of  finding  a  temporary 
refuge,  allow  him  to  approach,  and  then  suddenly  diving, 
fancy  themselves  in  safety,  while  the  eagle  is  only  waiting 
f(tr  the  moment  of  their  reappearance  to  repeat  his  attack, 
Twice  or  thrice  they  may  possibly  escape  his  claws  by  a  rapid 
plunge,  but  wIumi  for  the  fourth  time  they  dive  out  of  the 
Avater,  and  remain  but  one  instant  above  the  siu-face,  that 
instant  seals  their  doom.  The  sea-eagle  is  equally  formidable 
to  the  denizens  of  the  ocean,  but  sometimes  too  great  a  con- 
fidence in  his  strength  leads  to  his  destruction,  for  Kittlitz 
Avas  informed  by  the  inhabitants  of  Kamtschatka  that, 
pouncing  upon  a  dolphin,  he  is  not  seldom  dragged  down  into 
the  water  by  the  diving  cetacean  in  whose  skin  his  talons 
remain  fixed. 


k   l"l^       i'-i  u  . 


X't'ssel  liRea  out,  oi  cnc  Water  by  Ice. 


CHAPTER  II  [. 


THE    ARCTIC    SKAS. 


li.iuirii'- 


iccuhar  to  Ih 


AiTtii-  Sea — L' 


-irnnunock'^  -  Coll 


1> 


•'— Ii^o-bcrys — 'J'luir  Oi'iicin — Their    Si 


'L'ht'  (ilacicTs  wliicii  fj:iv<'  ilu'iii 
Da 


l)irtli — Tluir  Beauty — Sometimes  useful  Auxiliaries  to  tlie  3Iariiier-l)ani;ers  ot 

AiirliMrins  to  a  liiTg — A  eruniMing  Iht^ — Tlie  lei-liliuk — Fof>:s— Trans  pare  iiey 


(it  til.' 


Atinospliere— riienomena   of  luflectiou  ami  Refraetiou — Ca 


usis  wliieli 

] ivvtiit  the  Accumulation  of  Polar  Ice — Tides — Currents — Ice  a  bad  Cunduetor 
of  IKat — Wise  Provisions  of  Nature. 

|rrilK  heart  of  the  first  n!ivi<jfator,  says  Horace,  must  have 
X  boon  shickled  with  throelbld  brass — and  yet  the  poet  kiK.'w 
Imt  the  sunny  Mediterranean,  with  its  tepid  Hoods  and  smiling- 
shores :  liow,  then,  woukl  he  liave  found  words  to  express  his 
iistdiiishnient  at  the  intrepid  seamen  who,  to  open  noAv  vistas 
t<i  sciiiice  or  new  roads  to  coninierce,  first  ventured  to  face 
the  imkiiown  terrors  of  the  Arctic  main":^ 

Til  (Very  part  of  the  ocean  the  mariner  has  to  jiniard  aij-ainst 
jtlic  perils  of  hidden  shoals  and  sunken  cliffs,  but  the  hi<>'h 
iKirtliorn  waters  are  doubly  and  trebly  dano-erous  ;  for  here, 
|l)t'sides  those  rocks  whieh  are  firmly  rooted  to  the  ^Tonnd, 


.•50 


TlIK    POLAR    WORLD. 


tliere  are  others  wliicli,  freely  floating'  about,  threaten  h\ 
crush  his  vessel  to  pieces,  or  to  force  it  alon«^  with  them  in 
helpless  boudaj^'e. 

The  Arctic  navigators  have  given  various  names  to  these 
jnovable  shoals,  which  are  the  cause  of  so  much  delay  and 
danger.  They  are  ice-henjs  when  they  tower  to  a  considerable 
height  above  the  waters,  and  icc-Jlelih  when  they  have  a  vast 
iKunzontal  extension.  A  floe  is  a  detached  portion  of  a  field: 
'jKicJi-lrc,  a  large  area  of  floes  or  smaller  fragments  closely 
driven  together  so  as  to  oppose  a  firm  barrier  to  the  jirogress 
of  a  ship  ;  and  drifi-ice,  loose  ice  in  motion,  Imt  not  so  flrnily 
l)acked  as  to  prevent  a  vessel  from  making  her  way  thronii'li 
its  yielding  masses. 

The  large  ice-fields  wliich  the  Avhaler  encounters  in  Baffin's 
Bay,  or  on  the  seas  between  Spitzbergeii  and  Greenland,  con- 
stitute one  of  the  marvels  of  the  deep.  There  is  a  solemn 
grandeur  in  the  slow  majestic  motion  wath  which  they  aiv 
drifted  by  the  cwTents  to  the  south;  and  their  enormous 
masses,  as  mile  after  mile  comes  floating  by,  impress  th'' 
spectator  with  the  idea  of  a  boundless  extent  and  an  irre- 
sistible power.  But,  vast  and  mighty  as  they  are,  they  aiv 
unable  to  withstand  the  elements  combined  for  their  destruc- 
tion, and  their  apparently  triumphal  march  leads  them  onljl 
to  their  ruin. 

When  they  first  descend  from  their  northern  stronghoLb. 
the  ice  of  which  they  are  composed  is  of  the  average  tlliclvne^^ 
of  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet,  and  their  surface  is  sometimes  toler- 
ably smooth  and  even,  but  in  general  it  is  covered  with  num- 
berless ice-blocks  or  hummocks  piled  upon  each  other  in  will 
confusion  to  a  height  of  forty  or  fifty  feet,  the  result  et 
repeated  collisions  befoi'e  flakes  and  floes  Avere  soldered  intu 
fields.  Before  the  end  of  June  they  are  covered  with  smom. 
sometimes  six  feet  deep,  which  melting  during  the  suniiiu'i 
forms  small  ponds  or  lakes  upon  their  surface. 

Not  seldom  ice-fields  are  whirled  about  in  rotatory  motion,  j 
which  causes  their  circumference  to  gyrate  with  a  velocity  of 
several  miles  per  hour.     "When  a  field  thus  sweeping  throuf^li  I 
the  Avaters  conies  into  collision    with   another   Avhich    niiiy 
possibly  be   rev(»lving  Avith   equal    rapidity   in    an    opposite 
direction- — when  masses  not  seldom  twenty  or  thirty  miles  in  I 


(liiiniefe 
<M-etll<'l 

Ill  seeuri 
A\lien  ua 
liii'lv  (lai; 

lie  <lis(i!i 

..rile'  li> 

]iel\Vee!i 
iMlilt      lUl 

Some  iia 
1i;h1  lliei 
<i\en'Ull 

,.  upon  tin 
T!u.  ic 

llle  Wilte 

lields.  ha 
the  sen  i 
As  (luv  1- 
<M-eaii,  si 
zone,  (les 
lureing  tl 
sujunier 
force  of  e 


K'K-BKiKis  A\i>  ic[:-fii:lixs. 


.'U 


kMi  til 
10111  ill 


tl 


ICSl' 


!iy  iiiKi 

lerill)lr 

a  vnst 

I  field: 

rooTcss 
)  firiiilv 
hroimli 


fholds. 
Licknoss 

>S  tollT- 

1  num- 
111  Avill  i 
'Slllt   of 
•od  into 

I  SUdW.  I 

luiiiiuer 


() 


mot  ion.  I 
city  <i' 
lirou^'li  j 
li   iniiy 
pposito 
nik's  ill  I 


(li;iiiit't»'i\  imd  oncli  wei<i'hiii,i;'  iiiiiny  millions  of  tons,  clasli 
l,.-vtlici-,  iiitiitzination  can  hardly  conceive  a  more  appallin;4' 
s.viir.  The  whalers  at  all  times  reqnire  nnremittino-  vio-ihuice 
ti,  siMiuv  their  safety,  but  scarcely  in  any  situation  so  much  as 
avImmi  uaviu-atin;^-  amidst  tliose  tields,  which  are  more  particn- 
Lirlv  dangerous  in  fo^-yy  weather,  as  their  motions  cannot  then 
he  (list  iiietly  ()l>served.  No  wonder  that  since  the  establishment 
..rtli  •  li-liery  numbers  of  vessels  have  been  crushed  to  liieces 
l.riwveM  two  hehls  in  motion,  for  the  stron^-est  ship  ever 
bnill  must  needs  be  utterly  unable  to  resist  their  power. 
Sniiie  have  been  uplifted  and  thrown  upon  the  ice  ;  some  have 
hii.l  llieii-  hulls  completely  torn  open  ;  and  others  have  been 
g  (.\erru!i  by  the  ice,  and  buried  beneath  the  fragments  piled 
^5  u]iuii  their  wreck. 

T!ie  ice-ber^-s,  which,  as  their  name  indicates,  rise  above 
the  Avater  t(»  a  nnicli  more  c(tnsi<leral)le  heiodit  than  the  ice- 
iielils,  have  a  very  ditferent  orii^in.  as  they  are  not  formed  in 
the  sea  itself,  but  by  the  o-laciers  of  the  northern  hiohhinds. 
As  our  rivers  are  continually  pouring  their  streams  into  the 
ocean,  so  many  of  the  glaciers  or  ice-rivers  of  the  Arctic 
zone,  ilesceiiding  to  the  water-edge,  are  slowly  but  constantly 
■  lurcing  themselves  further  and  further  into  the  sea.  In  the 
siiiiiiiiei-  st'ason,  when  the  ice  is  particularly  fragile,  the 
\\>i\-''  of  cohesion  is  often  overcome  by  the  weigh':  of  tlie  pro- 
digious masses  that  overhang  the  sea  or  have  been  under- 
mined by  its  Avaters  ;  and  in  the  winter,  when  the  air  is 
l)rol)ahly  10°  or  50°  below  zero  and  the  sea  from  2S°  to  oO° 
altuve,  the  unequal  expansion  of  those  parts  (»f  the  mass 
exposed  to  so  great  a  ditference  of  temperature  cannot  fail  to 
l»iMduce  tlie  separation  of  large  portions. 

Most  of  these  swimming  glacier- fragments,  or  ice-bergs, 
wliicli  are  met  with  by  the  whaler  in  the  Northern  Atlantic, 
are  lui'iaed  on  the  mountainous  west  coast  of  (ireenland  by 
the  large  glaciers  vrhich  discharge  tluMiiselves  into  the  (lords 
from  Sinith''s  Sound  to  Disco  Bav,  as  here  the  sea  is  sutHcientlv 
deep  to  tloat  them  away,  in  spite  of  the  enormous  magnitude 
they  fre(iueutly  attain.  As  they  drift  along  down  Batlin's 
bay  and  Davis's  Strait,  they  not  seldom  run  aground  on  some 
shaHow  shore,  wher(>,  bidding  defiance'  to  the  short  summer, 
thrv  i're(|iiently  remain  lor  many  a  year. 


ess 


32 


Till':    rOLAll   WOULD. 


Dr.  ITnyos  incasunul  aii  immonso  iee-l)or<j,'  wliicli  Imd 
strinided  olf  tlic  little  liiivljour  of  Tessuissak  to  tlic  iiortli  of 
Melville  Bay.  The  squiire  Avail  which  faced  towards  his  baso 
of*  measureiuent  was  iJI-")  leet  hi^-h  and  n  fraction  over  tlnvo 
quarters  of  a  mile  loii;^-.  Bein^-  almost  square-sided  ah(»ve  tlic 
sea,  the  same  shape  must  have  extended  beneath  it ;  and  since, 
by  measurements  nunle  two  daysbi'fbre  Hayes  had  discovered 
that  fresh-water  ice  floating'  in  salt  Avater  has  above  the  surfiicc 
to  beloAV  it  the  proportion  of  one  to  seven,  this  crystallised 
mountain  must  have  yone  aj^TOund  in  a  depth  of  nearly  lialf-a- 
mile.  A  rude  estimate  of  its  size,  made  on  the  spot,  g'avo  in 
cubical  contents  about  27,000  millions  of  feet,  and  in  Aveiylit 
sometliino-  like  2,000  millions  of  tons  ! 

Captain  Ross  in  his  fii'st  voya<>-e  mentions  another  of 
these  wrecked  berys,  Avhicli  Avas  found  to  be  11  Ol)  yards  loni;', 
!»()81)  yards  broad,  and  51  feet  hioh  above  the  IcA'cl  of  the  sen, 
It  AA'as  aground  in  01  fathoms,  and  its  Avei<>ht  Avas  estimat(>d 
by  an  officer  of  the  'Alexander'  at  1,2!>2,:)I>7,(>7''»  tons,  (hi 
ascendinpf  the  flat  top  of  this  ice-beri^'  it  Avas  ftnind  occupieil 
by  a  hu<jf('  white  bear,  avIio  justly  deeming'  '  discretion  the  best 
part  of  valour,'  sprang-  into  the  sea  before  he  could  be  fired  iit, 

The  vast  dimensions  of  the  ice-bergs  appear  less  astonish- 
ing Avhen  Ave  consider  that  many  of  the  glaciers  or  '^"-river? 
from  Avhicli  they  are  dislodged  are  equal  in  size  or  volume  ti' 
the  largest  streams  of  continental  Europe. 

Thus  one  of  the  eiu'ht  Maciers  existing  in  the  district  et 
Omenak  in  Greenland  is  no  less  than  an  English  mile  bmud, 
and  forms  an  ice-Avall  rising  1(10  f(>et  aboA'e  the  sea.     Furtlu'v 
to  the  north,  Melville  Bay  and  Whale  Sound  are  the  seat  ei 
vast  ice-riA'crs.    Here  Tyndall  glacier  forms  a  coast  line  of  io 
over  tAvo  miles  long,  almost  burying  its  face  in  the  sea,  Jiinl 
carrying  the  eye  along  a  broad  and  Avinding  valley,  up  ste]'^ 
of  ice  of  giant  heiglit,  until  at  length  the  slope  loses  itself  i: 
the  iniknoAA'u  ice-desert  bej'ond.     But  grand  abo\'e  all  is  tli' 
magnilicent  Hiunboldt  glacier,  Avhich,  connecting  Clreeidunl 
and  Washington  Land,  forms  a   solid  glassy  Avail  800  let' 
aboA'e  the  Avater-level,  with  an  unknoAvn  depth  beloAvit,  Avliil 
its  curved  face  extends  full  sixty  miles  in  length  from  Ciij' 
Agassiz  to  Cape  Forbes.  In  the  temperate  zone  it  Avould  be  oiu'  j 
of  the  miu'htiest  rivers  of  the  earth  ;  here,  in  the  frozen  soli- 


tlldi'.s  ( 

\\:ih'|-.s, 

As    1 

1 1  MCI  illy 

iMIISSi'S 

Ilia] 
.1   iiivk  : 

llnis.'    Ill 

iisii;(|  i;, 

d'lWII    ((I 
llh'V  cxll 

li:l\i'  !)('( 

A  mm 

iiiii^'iiitici 
t  Ik 'sc  en 
when    e]( 

Cololll'S    (.) 

fli.iiiliiig 

teiiijo'  in 
t1i>(;iiiee 
Keiiver  at 
vidi  itiiiii 
exhibited 
inilik,.  thi 
|1^  height 

y^^i''    Sllll,     ! 

^ikI  il  seci 
^le.        lilt 

|lii'l  iiothiij 
Oi  iiildiif  I 

•(fl"  iec  (»v( 
]|ilMle,l  (ht 
'Willl^jKirciK 

>'";nl  stiva 

|l''  h,.\vil,. 

^"Usain.1  ill 


i(i:-i;i:ii<is  i.v  .MinxKiiiT  .sl'.vsiiixh. 


33 


■^w 


34 


THE    rOLAK    WOULD. 


fioatirio*  masses,  the  water  bein;:,'  cliscliai'f]fe(l  from  lakes  of 
melted  snow  and  ice  whieli  reposed  in  quietude  far  up  in  the 
valleys  separating-  the  hi^h  iey  hills  of  their  upper  surface. 
From  other  ber<^s  larg-e  pieces  were  now  and  then  detached, 
plim^ino-  down  into  the  water  with  deafenino-  noise,  Avhilc 
the  slow  movinjj;-  swell  of  the  ocean  resounded  through  theii' 
broken  archways.' 

A  similar  gorgeous  spectacle  was  witnessed  by  Dr.  Kane 
in  Melville  Bay.  The  midnight  sun  came  out  over  a  great 
berg,  kindling  vari<msly-coloured  tires  on  every  part  of  its 
surface,  and  making  the  ice  around  the  ship  one  great  re- 
splendency of  gemwork,  blazing  carbuncles  and  rubies,  and 


nu>lten  gold. 


In  the  night  the  ice-bergs  are  readily  distinguished  even  at 
a  distance  by  their  natural  elfulgence,  and  in  foggy  weathei' 
by  a  j»ecidiar  blackness  in  the  atmosphere.  As  they  are  Udt 
unfrequently  drifted  by  the  Greenland  Stream  considerably  t^ 
the  soiith  of  Newfoundland,  sometimes  even  as  far  as  the  for- 
tieth or  thirty-ninth  degree  of  latitude  (May  18  11,  June  18  12), 
ships  siiiling  through  the  north-w(^stern  Atlantic  require  to 
l»e  always  on  their  guard  against  them.  The  ill-fated  '  Presi- 
<lent,'  one  of  our  lirst  ocean-steamers,  which  was  lost  on  its 
way  to  New  York,  without  leaving  a  trace  behind,  is  supposed 
to  have  been  sunk  by  a  collision  with  an  ice-berg,  and  no 
doubt  nniny  a  gallant  bark  has  either  foundered  in  the  night, 
or  been  luirled  bv  tlie  storm  a<i,'aiust  these  floating'  rocks. 

But  though  often  dangerous  neighbours,  the  bergs  occa- 
sionally prove  useful  auxiliaries  to  the  mariner.  From  their 
greater  bulk  lying  below  th(3  water-line,  they  are  either 
drifted  along  by  the  under-current  against  the  wind,  or  from 
their  vast  dimensions  are  not  perceptibly  influenced  even  bv 
the  strongest  gale,  but,  on  the  contrary,  have  the  appearami  Ml 
of  moving  to  windward,  because  every  other  kind  of  ice 
is  drifted  rapidly  past  them.  Thus  in  strong  adverse  winds, 
their  broad  masses,  fronting  the  storm  like  bulwarks,  not 
seldom  afford  protection  to  ships  mooring  under  their  lee. 

Anchoring  to  a  berg  is,  however,  not  always  iinattencloil 
with  danger,  particularly  when  the  summer  is  far  advanced. | 
or  in  a  lower  latitude,  as  all  ice  becomes  exceedingly  frayilt 
when  acted  on  by  the  sun  or  by  a  temperate  atmo.sphere. 


TIh- 

ruins, ( 

Tims 

wciv  at 

lifw  a  ] 

stnu-k, 

ilii'i'ctio 

\\as    |)()S; 

the  Iin<>'( 


L!    to 

L'osi- 
1  its 
( )seil 
(1  no 
iii'lit. 


u  (.*(' li- 
lt Uoir 
■itliev 
tVoin 
11  by 
auec 
[f  ici' 
Iniicls 
not 


tnl. 


inci 


LIBS 


l\  I 


V  1. 


A.\(llOi:iN(i    TO    ICIv-BKltdS 


^L^Tio:,..L  ^! 


t  < . 


« lb   K 


'I'Ih-  hlow  ol'iiu  axe  then  sonict iiiit's  siillices  to  reiul  an  iec- 
•;ini(lt'r,  and  t<)  biii'v  tlio  i-aivless  .seaman  beneath  its 


r  t(»  liiiil  liini  into  tin;  yawniny  cliasin 


I'uiiis.  (I 

Thus  8e(»resl)y  ndates  the  a<Tventure  of  two  sailors  who 
wriv  iitt('ni|4iii;4'  to  lix  an  anchor  to  a  her^'.  The_\  he<^-aii  to 
hew  a  h(tle  into  the  ice,  hut  .scarcely  liad  the  tirst  blow  been 
struck,  when  sinldeiily  the  iiniuense  mass  split  from  top  to 
l.uttdin  and  fell  asuinh'!-,  tJie  two  halves  falling-  in  contrary 
(liii'ctiniis  with  a  i>rodiii'i(»ns  crash.  One  of  the  sailors,  who 
v\;is  possessed  of  ^reat  presence  of  mind,  iinmediat(dy  scaled 
the  liu^e  frao-inent  on  which  he  Avas  standin;^-,  and  remained 
lucidnu'  to  and  fro  on  its  snininit  until  its  eqiulibrium  Avas 
restored;  init  his  companion,  fallino-  between  the  masses, 
would  most  likely  have  been  crnshed  to  pieces  if  the  current 
ciiis.'d  l»y  their  motion  had  not  swept  him  within  reach  of 
llif  boat  lliat  was  Avaitiiij^'  tor  llu'in. 

l'r('(jui'iitly  lar«^'e  pieces  detach  themselves  spontaneously 
111  mi  ail  ict'-boru"  and  fall  into  the  sea  with  a  tremendous  noise. 
When   tliis  circumstance,  called  '  calvini^','  takes  place,  the 


icc-hcri;'   lost 
.1 


'S  its  equilibrium,  sometimes  turns  on  one  side, 


•ted. 


aiul  IS  oi'casionaliy  invei 

Di'.  Haves  witnessed  the  crumbling'  of  an  immense  bery, 
rcs'iiiblini;'  in  its  <>'eneral  appeai'auce  the  Jiritisli  House  of 
I'avliameiit.  First  one  lotty  towiT  came  tumblino'  into  the 
watt'r,  startiiif)'  from  its  surface  an  immense  tlock  of  <4ulls  ; 
tlicii  another  followed;  and  at  leiiLi'th,  after  five  hours  of  roll- 
ing- and  crashing',  ihere  remained  of  this  s[)lendid  mass  of  con- 
t^vlatiou  not  a  fra<ji,'ment  that  rose  fifty  feet  aliove  the  water. 

<  )ne  of  the  most  remarkable  ])henoinena  of  the  Polar  Sea 
is  tlie  ice-blink,  or  retlection  of  the  ice  a<>'ainst  the  skv.  A 
sti'i|ic  of  li-4'ht,  similar  to  the  early  dawn  of  niorninu',  but 
without  its  redness,  appears  above  the  hori/(»n,  and  traces  a 

COllIp 

hcvoni 


lote  at'-rial  mi])  of  the  ice  to  a  distance  of  many  miles 

id  the  ordinary  reach  of  vision.     To  the  experienced 

uiviL^ator   the    'blink'  is    frequently   of   the  o-reatest    u.se, 

lis  it  not  only  points  out  the  vicinity  v>f  the  drift-ice,   but 

iiidicates  its  mitnre,  whether  comjiact  or  h)ose,  ccuitinuous 

•  a-  oi»eu.     Thus   Scoresby  relates  that  on   the  7th  of  June, 

;-ilt'^|    b^-L  he  saw  so  distinct  an  ice-blink,  that  as  far  as  twenty 

'1'  thirtv  miles  all  round  the  horizon  he  was  able  to  a.scer- 


36 


TIIK   VOLXU  WOULD. 


tain  the  lio-nro  iind  probable  extent  of  each  ico-fieltl.  Tlif 
pai'kod  ieo  was  distinf^'uished  from  the  lar<4'er  (ieltls  by  a 
more  o])scnro  and  yellow  colour;  while  each  water-lane  or 
open  passaj^e  was  indicated  by  a  deep  blue  stripe  or  patch. 
By  this  means  he  was  enabled  to  lind  his  way  out  of  the  vast 
masses  of  ice  in  which  he  had  been  detained  for  several 
days,  and  to  emer^-e  into  the  open  sea. 

The  tendency  of  the  pack-ice  to  separate  in  calm  weather. 
so  tliat  one  nii^'ht  almost  be  tempted  to  believe  in  a  mutual 
i*e[)ulHive  power  of  the  individual  blocks,  is  likewise  favour- 
able to  the  Arctic  navij^-ator.  The  perpetual  daylight  of 
suuimer  is  another  advanta|>"e,  but  unfortunately  the  sun  is 
too  often  veiled  by  dense  mists  which  frequently  obscure  the 
air  for  AVeeks  to<^'ether,  ])articularly  in  July.  These  fo^-s, 
which  are  a  ^reat  impediment  to  the  whaler's  operations, 
have  a  very  depressing*  influence  upon  the  spirits ;  and  as 
they  are  attended  Avitli  a  low  temperature,  Avhicli  even  at 
noon  does  not  rise  much  above  freezinj^-point,  the  dau'p 
cold  is  also  physically  extremely  unpleasant. 

At  other  times  the  sun  sweeps  two  or  three  times  round 
the  Pole  without  being'  for  a  moment  obscured  by  a  cloud, 
and  then  the  transparency  of  the  air  is  such  that  objects 
the  most  remote  may  be  seen  perfectly  distinct  and  clear. 
A  ship's  top  gallant  mast,  at  the  distance  of  five  or  six 
leagues,  may  be  discerned  when  just  appearing  above  tlio 
hori/on  with  a  common  perspective-glass;  and  the  summits 
of  mountains  are  visible  at  the  distance  of  from  sixty  to  ii 
hundred  miles. 

On  sucli  sunny  days,  the  strong  contrasts  of  light  aiul 
shade  between  the  glistening  snow  and  the  dark  protruding; 
rocks  produce  a  remarkable  deception  in  the  apparent  dis- 
tance of  the  land,  ahmg  a  steep  mountainous  coast.  Whon 
at  the  distance  of  twenty  miles  from  Spitsbergen,  for  instance, 
it  would  be  easy  to  induce  even  a  judicious  stranger  t(i 
undertake  a  passage  in  a  boat  to  the  shore,  from  a  beliof 
that  he  was  within  a  league  of  the  land.  At  this  distance 
the  portions  of  rock  and  patches  of  snow,  as  well  as  the 
contour  of  the  ditferent  hills,  are  as  distinctly  marked  its 
similar  objects  in  many  other  countries,  not  having  snew 
al)out  them,  would  be  at  a  fourth  or  a  fifth  part  of  tlie 
distance. 


ATMOSniHIIIC    KFFIXJTS. 


37 


leiiv. 

six 

tin- 

units 

to  a 

aiul 
iclini;' 

ais- 
Vlion 
•aiu't\ 

I-  to 

oliof 

lUK'O 

the 
'{\  as 

SHOW 

the 


Xulliiny  Clin  l>o  iiiovo  wcnidcrtul  tlimi  tlic  pliciioinoiiii  of 
tilt'  at iiios|ilit'r('  (Ifpciidciit  on  ivfl('('ti(»n  iind  rdViH-iion,  wliicli 
;iri'  tVt'(|iit'iitlv  observed  \u  tlio  Arctic  seas,  particularly  at 
I  lie  loiinuencenieut  or  a[>proacli  of  easterly  winds.  They 
aie  probalily  occasioned  by  llie  commixture,  near  the  surface 
nf  {lie  land  or  sea,  of  tw(_>  streams  of  air  of  dilferent  tempera- 
tures, so  as  to  occasion  an  irres^'ular  di'position  of  imperfectly 
(•(iiidensed  vapour,  which  when  passing-  the  ver^-e  of  the 
horizon  apparently  raises  the  objects  there  situated  1o  a 
considerable  distanc(>  above  it,  or  extends  their  hei«^'ht  l)e- 
voiid  their  natural  dimeurjions.  Ice,  land,  ships,  boats,  and 
otjicr  ol»jects,  when  tlius  en]ar<4ed  and  elevati'd,  are  said  to 
loom.  The  lower  part  of  loomin;j;'  o]>jects  are  sometinu'S  con- 
nected with  the  horizon  l)y  an  a|iparent  iibrous  or  cohunnar 
extension  of  their  parts;  at  other  times  they  appear  to  be 
fjuito  lifted  into  the  air,  avoid  space  behii>'  seen  l)etween  them 
and  till'  h(»ri/on. 

A  most  remarkaV)le  delusion  of  this  Idnd  Avas  oltserved  by 
S((.i'csl)y  while  sailin*;'  through  the  open  ice,  far  fnun  land. 
Suddenly  an  immense  amphitheatre  enclosed  l)y  hio-h  walls 
of  liiisaltic  ice,  so  lilce  natural  I'oclc  as  to  (h'ceive  one  (»!'  hiM 
most  expi'rienced  olHcers,  rose  around  the  ship.  Sometimes 
the  refraction  produced  on  all  sides  a  sijnilar  effect,  l)ut 
still  more  iVequently  reniarkalde  contrasts.  Sin<4'le  ice-bloclcs 
fX[iaiided  into  architectural  tij^ures  of  an  extraordinary 
licio-lit,  and  sometimes  the  distant,  deeply  indented  ice-border 
liioI<eil  like  a  number  of  toAVcrs  or  niinarets,  or  like  a  deiise 
fiir<'st  of  naked  ti'ccs.  Scarcely  had  an  ol)ject  acquired  a 
lli■^tilu•t  forni,  wlien  it  bef>'an  to  dissolve  into  another. 

It  is  Avell  known  that  similar  causes  produce  similar  ef- 
fects in  the  warmer  reu'ions  of  the  eartli.  In  the  midst  of  the 
tropical  ocean,  tlio  mariner  sees  verdant  islands  rise  from 
tlie  waters,  and  in  the  treeless  desert  fantastic  palm-gTovcB 
wave  their  fronds,  as  if  in  mockery  of  the  thirsty  caravan. 

When  we  consider  the  intense  cold  which  rei^-ns  durin;;'  tlu^ 
greatest  part  of  the  year  in  the  Arctic  ree-ions,  we  mij^'ht 
aafurally  expect  to  find  the  whole  of  the  Polar  Sea  covered, 
•hu'in^'  the  Avinter  at  least.,  Avitli  one  solid  unbroken  sheet  of 
i' c.  JUit  experience  teaches  us  that  this  is  by  no  meajis 
ilie  ease  ;  for  the  currents,  the  tides,  the  winds,  and  the  sw-elj 
"i  a  turbulent  ocean  are  ini^'hty  causes  of  dis]'uption,  or 


38 


TFIK    I'OLAIt    Woill.I). 


stnai^  iiiij)LMliineiits  to  (.'oiiy-cliitioii.  IJotli  riirutnmiit  <!(• 
Haven  and  Sir  Francis  JM'( 'liiitock"^'  wt're  helplessly  ciirried 
iilon^',  in  tlie  dei»tli  of  winter,  l)y  Mie  ])iu-k-ice  in  Lancaster 
Soinul  and  liiiilin's  Bay.  A  berjj,-  impelled  by  ti,  strong' 
vnider-cnrrent  rips  open  an  ice-iield  as  if  it  were  a  tliiii 
sheet  of  u-Jass  ;  and  in  channels,  or  on  coasts  where  the  tides 
rise  to  a  considerM,ble  hei^-lit,  their  liux  and  reflnx  is  continu- 
ally openin<^'  crevices  and  lanes  in  the  iee  which  covers  ilie 
waters.  That  even  in  the  hij^hest  hititndes  the  sea  does  not 
close  except  when  at  rest,  was  fully  ex])erienced  by  Dr. 
Hayes  (hu'injjf  liis  vvinterino-  at  Port  Foulke ;  for  at  all  times, 
even  wlien  the  temperature  of  the  air  was  below  the  free/in^-- 
[)oint  of  mercury,  he  could  hear  from  llio  deck  of  his  schooner 
the  roar  of  the  beaiinn-  waves.  Froiu  all  these  causes  there 
has  at  no  point  within  the  Arctic  circh>  been  found  a  firm 
ice-belt  extendinf^'-,  either  in  winter  or  in  summer,  more  tlian 
from  fifty  to  a  hundred  miles  from  land.  And  even  in  ilio 
narrow  channels  s(^paratinL>'  tlie  islands  of  th(^  Parry  Archi- 
pela<4'o,  or  at  the  mouth  of  Snuth  Sound,  the  w^aters  will  not 
freeze  over,  except  when  sheltert.'d  b}'  the  land,  or  when  an 
ice-pack,  accumulated  by  long  contiinuince  of  Avinds  from 
<me  quarter,  affords  the  same  protection. 

But  the  constant  motion  of  the  Polar  Sea,  wherever  it 
expands  to  a  considerable  breadth,  would  be  insufficient  to 
prevent  its  total  congelation,  if  it  were  not  assisted  by  other 
physical  causes.  A  magnificent  system  of  currents  is  con- 
tinually displacing  the  waters  of  the  ocean,  and  forcing  the 
warm  floods  of  the  tropical  regions  to  w^ander  to  the  Pole, 
while  the  cold  streams  of  the  frigid  zone  are  as  constantly 
migrating  towards  the  equator.  Thus  we  see  the  Gulf 
Stream  flowing  througli  the  broad  gateway  east  of  Spitz-  1 
bergen,  and  forcing  out  a  return  current  of  cold  water  to  tlio  § 
west  of  Spitzbergen,  and  through  Davis'  Strait. 

The  comparatively  warm  floods  which,  in  consequence  of 
this  great  law  of  circulation,  come  pouring  into  the  Arctic 
Seas  naturally  recpiire  some  time  before  they  are  suili- 
ciently  chilled  to  be  converted  into  ice  ;  and  as  sea-water  li;is 
its  maximum  of  density,  or,  in  other  words,  is  heaviest  ii 
few   degrees  above  the  freezing-point  of   water,   and  then 

*  Sc..  Cliaiit.r  XXXII. 


lOXTKXT   OF    ICK 


39 


ii.'n>ssiirily  sinks,  tlio  whole  doptli  ot'tlio  son,  iimsi  of  course 
Ix'  ('(M»lc(l  (l<»\vii  to  that  tcnipfi'iittire  before  freeziuy-  eiiti 
tiike  pliire.  lee  beiu^'  a  bad  eoii(hicior  of  heat,  likewise 
limits  I  lie  j»rocess  of  eon;^elatioii ;  for  iifter  iittiiinin^  a  thick- 
II. 'ss  of  ten  or  tifteuii  feet,  its  ^^rou'th  is  very  slow,  iiiid 
lirobiii^ly  even  ceases  altoj^'ctlier ;  for  uht'ii  floatin<^'  lieMs,  or 
Hoes,  are  fomul  of  a  <j;'ri'ater  thii-kness,  this  increase  is  due 
to  till'  snow  tliat  falls  upon  their  surface,  or  to  the  accumu- 
lation of  hunniiocks  caused  by  their  collision. 

Thus,  by  the  combined  influence  of  these  various  physical 
a'_;'eucies,  l)ounds  have  been  set  to  the  couj^vlatiou  of  the 
Polar  waters.  VVere  it  otherwise  the  Arctic  lands  would 
liave  bicn  mere  uninhabitable  wastes;  for  the  existence  of 
!lie  seals,  the  walrus,  and  the  whale  depends  upon  their 
limlin^'  some  oi)cn  water  at  every  season  of  the  year  ;  and 
(Itpi-ivcd  <if  this  res(»urce,  all  the  Ks(|uimaux,  whose  varions 
tribes  fringe  the  coasts  in  the  hig-hest  latitudes  hitherto 
(lis((.v('i'('(l,  would  p<'rish  in  a  sing'le  winter. 

If  the  Arctic  glaciers  did  not  dischai'ge  their  bergs  into 
llic  sea,  ur  if  no  currents  convoyed  the  ice-Hoes  of  the  north 
into  lower  latitudes,  ice  would  be  constantly  accumulating 
ill  the  Polar  world,  and,  destroying  the  balance  of  nature, 
would  ultimately  endangt'r  the  existence  of  man  over  the 
whole  surface  of  the  ••'lobe. 


Toll 


The  l^inback  Whale. 


vVhniois  firuoiif'  Icf-iii  i'   i^. 


(^HAITIIIJ    IV. 

A I !  ('  'I' T  f '    jM  a  1! )  X  K    A  M  :\I  A  I ,  S . 

T'lliiiloiisiicss   of  tlio   Arcti,'    S(  as— 'I'll.'   Cniiil.'iiiil   AVlialr     The    I'lii    Wliali- 
'I'll.'  Narwlial      '\'\n-  l!.li|..a.  <ii' While  I  )..li.liili  — The  lllafk  l»ol|iliili      IIIswIm.!.- 
sale  Ma>>acT('  (ni    llic  l^'arrni'   l>laiiils      TIh'   Ori'  i.r  ( 1  raiiiiiii>      'I'lii'  ScaN     '\'y 
\\':\\vn^ — Jls  acute  Smell — llistin'v  ofa  yiiiin-  Waliai^ — I'areiitiil  Alleetioii  -Tin' 
I'lilar  Hear — His  SaM-aeity  —  Hilieniatidii  nl'llie  She-i!ear — St  a  IJii'ds. 

rnjIF]  vast  innllitudt's  of  iuiliuiitcd  boinj^'s  wLic-li  people  tin 


T 


Polar  Sens  I'onu  a  remarkable  eoiitrast  to  the  nalveclm'> 
of  tlieir  blealc  and  desolate  sbores.     The  colder  siirface-Avatois  i 
almost  perpetually   exposeil  to   a   chilly  air,  and   irecpieiitly 
covered,  even  in  summer,  Avith   lloatini^-  iee,  are  indeed  an- 
favourable  to  the  development  of  or^'ainc  life  ;  but  this  advcrso  | 
inlluence  is  modified  by  the  higher  temperature  which  cd 
stantly  prevails  at  a  oreater  depth;   for,  contrary  to  wliatl 
takes  place  in  th(}  equatorial  seas,  avc  find  in  the  Polar  OecMii 
an  increase  of  temperature   from  the  surface  down^vards,  in 
consequenci'  of  the  warmer  nnder-currents,  llowinin'  from  flu 
south   northwards,  and  passing-  beneath   the   cold  waters  <'i| 
the  sui»t'rfi(*ial  Arctic  current. 


riil.AK    lli;Ali>    AMI    SKAI.~. 


^B 


I.IFi:    IN    THK    ARCTIC    SKA. 


41 


Tims  the  severity  <•!'  ilie  Pohir  wiiiier  roiiiiiiiis  inifclt  at  ii 
i^iciilei'  (le|itli  t'l'  ihr  sea,  wliere  myviiids  <»f  creiiiures  find  a 
sei'iire  retreat  a^-aiiist  tlie  I'ntst,  and  wlieiico  ilit'y  ciiiev^'e 
diu'iii""  the  loiiLi'  snimner's  dav,  eillier  to  line  tho  shores  ur  to 
;isceiid  the  ])road  rivers  ol'  Hk'  Aretie  world.  iJetween  the 
|iarallels  ol"  71  and  so'  Scoreshy  observed  that  tho  colour 
of  ihe  Greenland  sea  varies  from  tlie  purest  ultramarine  to 
olive  i^reeii,  and  IVoni  crystalline  transparency  to  striking' o])a- 
citv— appearances  Avhicli  are  not  transit(»ry,  but  permanent. 
This  ^Teen  semi-opaque  wat(>r,  Avlioso  position  varies  Avitli  the 
cerrents,  (tften  tbrmin<4-  isolated  stripes,  and  sometimes  spread- 
ing' over  two  or  three  (h'^'rees  of  latitude,  mainly  (^nves  its  sin- 
L^'ular  as[)ect  to  small  medusie  and  nudibranchiate  molluscs. 
It  is  calcidated  to  form  <aie-fourtli  part  of  the  surface  of  the 
sea  between  the  above-mentioned  parallels,  so  that  many 
tliousands  of  square  miles  are  al)Solutoly  teeminf>'  with  life. 

On  the  coast  of  (ireenland,  where  the  waters  are  so  ex- 
(•(>edin<;'ly  clear  that  the  bottom  and  every  object  upon  it  are 
plaiidy  visible  even  at  a.  depth  of  ei^■hty  fathoms,  the  ground 
is  seen  covered  with  nin'antie  tan;4'les,  which  toi^vther  with 
the  animal  world,  circulating^"  aniouLi,-  their  fronds,  remind 
the  spectator  of  the  coral-reefs  of  the  tropical  ocean.  Nul- 
li[)ores,  nnissels,  ah-yonians,  sertularians,  ascidians,  and  u 
variety  of  other  sessile  animals,  incrust  every  stone  or  lill 
vwvy  hollow  or  crevice  of  the  rochy  j.;round.  A  dead  seal  or 
tisli  thi'own  into  the  sea  is  soon  converted  into  a  skeleton  by 
liie  njvriads  of  small  crustaceans  which  infest  these  northern 
waters,  and,  lil^e  the  ants  in  the  e(jualorial  forests,  perform 
the  part  of  scavenj^'ers  of  the  deep. 

Thus  we  iind  an  exuberance  of  life,  in  its  smaller  and 
smallest  forms,  peoplin;^'  the  Arctic  waters,  and  atfordinj^* 
nourishment  to  a  varic^ty  of  stran^'o  and  bulky  creatures — 
cetaceans,  walruses,  and  seals — which  annually  attract  thou- 
sands of  adventurous  seamen  to  the  Icy  Ocean. 

Of  these  sea-nuunmalians,  the  most  inqiortant  to  civilised 
nian  is  undoubtedly  the  Oreeidand  whale  {Ihihi  mi  nni^lii'i  his), 
or  smooth-back,  thus  called  from  its  havinj^-  no  dorsal  fin. 
I'ornierly  these  whales  were  harpocaied  in  considerable  num- 
hers  in  the  Icelandic  waters,  or  in  the  tiords  of  Spit/berLj'eii 
;iiid    Danish    (Ireenland;    then     Davis'    Straits   became    the 


42 


TIIK    I'Or.AR   WORLD. 


favourite  fishinn'-jrvonnds ;  and  more  recently  the  inlets  jiiid 
Viivions  oliiinnels  to  tlie  east  of  Baitin's  Bay  have  been  iii- 
v;i(l('(l ;  Avhile,  on  the  opposite  side  of  America,  seveviil 
lmii(lr<'ds  of  whalers  penetrate  every  year  thronjj^h  Berini^'s 
Striiits  into  the  Icy  Sea  beyond,  where  previously  they  lived 
iind  multiplied,  unmolested  excei)t  by  the  Escpiimaux. 

More  fortunate  than  the  smooth-back,  the  rorquals  or  fiii- 
whales  (lidlfmnjiterd  hoops,  muscnins,  iilii/sfilis,  and  rostrotnx] 
still  remain  in  their  ancient  seats,  from  which  they  are  not 
likely  to  be  dislod^-ed,  as  the  ag'ility  of  their  movements  makes 
their  capture  more  dilhcult  and  dang'erou'^' ;  while  at  tlic 
same  time  the  small  (pmutity  of  their  fat  and  the  shortness 
of  their  baleen  render  it  far  less  rennmeratiA'e.  They  are  (if 
a  more  slender  forui  of  body,  and  Avith  a  more  pointeil 
uui//le  tlian  the  Greenland  whale ;  and  while  the  laltev 
attains  a  leii;^th  of  only  sixty  feet,  the  BolanopUra  ho<iii.< 
<»'rows  to  the  vast  leng'th  of  100  feet  and  more.  There  is 
also  a  difi'erence  in  their  food,  for  the  Greenland  whale 
chiefl}'  feeds  upon  the  minute  animals  that  crowd  the  olive- 
coloured  waters  above  described,  or  on  the  hosts  of  little 
pteropods  that  are  found  in  many  parts  of  the  Arctic  seas, 
while  the  rorquals  frequently  accompany  the  herring'-shoals 
and  carry  death  and  destru<.'tion  into  their  ranks. 

The  seas  of  Novaja  Zemlya,  Spitzbergen,  aud  Greenland 
are  the  domain  of  the  narwhal  or  sea-unicorn,  a  cetacean 
([uite  as  strange,  but  not  so  fabulous  as  the  terrestrial  aninnil 
which  hgures  in  the  arms  of  England.  The  use  of  the  enor- 
mous spirally  wound  tusk  projecting  from  its  upper  jaw,  and 
tVonnvhich  it  derives  its  i)opular  name,  has  not  yet  been  clearh 
ascertained,  some  holding  it  to  be  an  instrument  of  defence, 
Avhile  others  suppose  it  to  be  only  an  ornament  or  mark  o\' 
the  superior  dignity  of  the  sex  to  which  it  has  been  awardetl. 
Among  the  inimerous  dolphins  which  people  the  Arctic 
and  Subarctic  Seas,  the  l)eluga  (Z)f7y>/<m?(.s /(?«c'«.s),  improperly 
called  the  white  whale,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting.  Wlit'ii 
yonng  it  has  a  brown  colour,  which  gradually  changes  into  ;i 
perfect  white.  It  attains  a  length  of  from  twelve  to  twenty 
feet,  has  no  dorsal  tin,  a  strong  tail  three  feet  broad,  and  ii 
round  head  with  a  broad  truncated  snout.  Beyond  '"iii" 
of  latitude  it  is  ire(piently  seen  in  large  shoals,  particularly 


>'^. 


lieiir  t  III 
I'ivel'S,  \| 
|iin'suit 

lllr   (l;!ld-, 

cent  sjM. 

eclltlMSi 

ari'ow-l 
Til.' 

eollliniill 

and  lietw 
iiKikes  e- 
:  weiity-t' 
';  'le  skill 

;  .'■•I -111111!: 

i  p'l:,    ail 
!'.;■(■(>  i>r 
The  Cii 

t'eiil  ill  ( 
I  .  k  ^et^ 
.i"]>;il  I'm 
t '.]('  iiecto 
^'l  tluit,  ai 
i--  i):tel'i(( 
eui  ''leiii  !\ 
^lVM-;|j|.    ; 

several    (d 

ick  of  s! 

in  Shetla 

fre([iu>ntl_\ 

herds  hiM 

aiid    the 

ea[itun'   i: 

sllMlll   of    ( 

the  foast 
phlci^'mati 

itei'^lilunn 
semi  nuni 

VetlViit  (if 

tewards  tl 
illid  (dosei 


TIIK    iLACK    DOI.IMII.V. 


V.l 


iMur  t!i«'  (>stiiiirit's  ol'  tlio  larj^'O  Silx'vian  aiid  North  Ainoricaii 
i  ;\('is,  wliirli  it  nt'ten  ii.seeu<ls  to  a  oonsicU'Viiblo  (listaiice  in 
i-ursiiit  (if  the  salmon.  A  tnjop  of  bdiiy-as  diviiif^"  out  of 
ill.'  ihirk  waves  eniic  Arctic  Sea,  is  i^aid  to  atford  ii  ina^-iiifi- 
( .'lit  sjirctaclc.  Their  white  cohmr  appears  dazzling',  from  tlie 
(  niitr.ist  of  the  sombre  background,  as  tliey  dart  about  Avith 
;i!T'iw-Iii<e  velocity. 

Til-'  liliicl':  dolpliin  {Clhilia'plmhoi  (jlnhinjis)  is  liktnvise  very 
...!iiiiti-ii  in  the  Arctic  Seas,  lioth  beyond  Bering's  Straits 
,'iii(l  lictween  Greenland  and  8i)it/berg-en,  whence  it  frequently 
,i!;ilo'S  excursions  to  the  south.  Tt  grows  to  the  length  of 
;\v.iifv-tbnr  feet,  and  is  about  ten  feet  in  circumference. 
'i  iic  skill,  like  tliat  (»f  the  doljiliin  tribe  in  g'eneral,  is  smooth, 
resiMiibliiiu'  oiled  silk:  tlie  colour  a  l)luish  black  on  tlie 
h;ick,  and  ge!ie]'>;lly  whitish  on  the  belly;  the  blubber  is 
three  or  lour  iiu-hes  thick. 

The  fiill-growii  have  generally  twenty-two  or  twenty-four 
teeth  in  each  jaw ;  and  when  the  mouth  is  shut,  tlu'  teeth 
lock  Ix'tween  one  another,  lilce  the  teeth  of  a  trap.  The 
iior.-al  lin  is  al)out  fifteeu  inches  high,  the  tail  five  feetbroa<l, 
the  [sectoral  tins  are  as  many,  haig  and  comparatively  narrow  ; 
so  that,  armeil  with  smdi  ('xcellent  paddles,  the  black  dol[)hiu 
is  inferior  to  none  of  his  relatives  in  swiftness.  (Jf  an 
einiricntly  social  disi)osition,  thes(^  dolphins  sometimes  con- 
gregate ill  herds  of  many  hundreds,  under  the  guidance  of 
several  (tld  experienced  ni;iles,  whom  the  rest  follow  lilc(>  a 
iluck  of  sheeji — a.  property  from  which  the  animal  is  calle<l 
ill  Shetland  the  'caTng  whale.'  No  cetacean  stran<ls  nioi-e 
fi'e(|ucutly  than  the  Idack  doliihin,  and  occasionally  large 
iienls  have  beeu  driven  on  the  shores  of  Iceland,  Norway, 
ami  the  Orkney,  Shetland  and  Faeroe  islands,  wlier<^  their 
capture  is  hailed  as  a  godsend.  The  intelligence  that  a 
slieal  of  ca'ing  whales  or  grinds  has  been  seen  approaching 
the  coast,  creates  great  excitement  among  the  otherwise 
phlegmatic  inh-abitants  of  the  Faeroe  Islands.  The  whole 
neighbourhood,  (»1(1  and  young,  is  instantly  in  motion,  and 
seiiii  nmneriais  boats  shoot  otl'  from  shore  to  intercejit  the 
rc1iv;it  of  the  dol[»hins.  Slowly  and  steadily  they  are  driven 
tewards  the  coast ;  the  phalanx  of  their  enemies  draws  closer 
;ii"l  chisi'r  together:   terrified  bv  stones  and  blows.  tluM'  run 


■BfWi 


i 


44 


TIIH    Pol.AU    WdUl.l). 


nslioiY',  iiixl  H(^  t<'iispiiiij,-  iis  IIk'  flood  i-('C(m1<'s.  Tlion  Ix'i^iih 
flic  work  of  (IcaUi,  iiiiiid  the  loud  sliouls  of  llic  ('xeciitioiiciv 
iiiid  the  I'lirions  spliisliiiii4'.s  of  Iho  victiiiis.  In  this  iiiiiiiini 
iiiovo  tliiiii  SOO  <4-viiid3  woro  luassjicred  oil  Aii^mst  1(>,  177ri; 
iiiid  duriiiL;'  the  lour  .suuiiiicr  months  that  Laiij;l>yo  sojourii((l 
on  the  isJaiids  in  lsl7,  (»2-'!  were  driven  (mi  sliore,  and  servti] 
to  pay  one-halt'  of  the  iini»orted  eovn.  But,  on  the  (»1h(i 
ha,n«l,  many  years  fre(|uently  pass  witliout  yieldin;L4'  onesinnl. 
black  whale  to  the  tender  mercies  of  tlie  islanders. 

The  ferocious  ore  or  ^'ranipus  {l)tlj>liiinif<  orca)  is  the  tipi 
of  the  Arctic  Seas.  IJlaclc  ahove,  white  beneath,  it  is  (li>- 
tinynished  by  its  l;ir;^-e  dorsal  tin,  Avhich  curves  backward- 
towards  the  tail,  and  rises  to  the  height  of  two  feet  or  nioir, 
Measurinn'  no  less  than  twenty-live  feet  in  lent'th  andtwelvi' 
or  thirteen  in  u'irth,  of  a  ct)urai4e  ecpial  to  its  strength,  ami 
armed  with  formidable  teeth,  thirty  in  each  jaw,  the  grampu> 
is  the  dread  of  the  seals,  whom  it  overtakes  in  spite  of  tlioir 
rapid  tlight ;  and  the  whale  himself  would  consider  it  as  his 
most  formi(hible  enemy,  were  it  not  for  the  persecutions  n! 
man.  The  grampus  generally  ploughs  the  seas  in  sniall  tree]- 
of  four  or  five,  following  each  other  in  close  single  files  aii'! 
alternately  disappearing  and  rising  so  as  to  resemble  tin 
undulatory  motions  of  one  hirge  serpentiform  animal. 

The  family  of  the  seals  has  also  numerous  and  miglitv 
representatives  in  the  Arctic  Avaters.  In  the  sea  <»f  Beiiii;: 
we  meet  Avith  the  fi^rmi(hible  sea-lion  and  tlie  valuable  si;;- 
bear,  Avhile  the  harp-seal,  the  bearded  seal,  and  the  hisjiil 
seals  [PIkh'h  (invnlnudica,  harhntn,  Idapiihi),  spreading  fVdii' 
the  Tarry  Islands  to  Novaja  Zeml^a,  y""ldthe  tribute  of  tliiir 
flesh  to  numerous  Avihl  tribes,  and  thai  of  their  skins  to  tli< 
European  hunter. 

Few  Arctic  animals  are  more  valuable  to  man,  or  more  IV'  - 
(juently  mentioned  in  Polar  voyages  than  the  walrus  or  ni<>i- 
{'rrichcchiis  r<isi)i(inis)^  which,  though  allied  to  the  seals,  ditli  i- 
greatly  from  them  by  the  dev(dopment  of  the  canines  of  lli- 
upper  jaw,  which  form  two  enormous  tusks  projecting  down- 
wards to  the  length  of  two  feet.  The  niors(>  is  (Use  of  lli 
largest  quadrupeds  existing,  as  it  attains  a  length  of  twcn'.' 
feet,  and  a  weight  of  from  fifteen  hundred  to  two  thoitsiiii : 
pounds.  In  uiieouthness  ol"  forui  it  surpasses  even  the  Un- 
gainly hip[iopofainus.    It  has  a  small  heail  with  a  i-i'markaWy 


|b;iiii(iiit,  ai 

\:ilnis  wh, 
\  li<'ii(.v(.'r 


TIIR    WALTiUS. 


45 


(>r  ill' 

(IdAVll- 

nisam: 
lie  nil- 


Ii!(  k  ii)'!"  r  lip.('nvovO(lwit]ilaryop<>lliici<lwliiskortJOvbrislk's; 
ill-'  neck  is  tliick  and  ishovt ;  tlio  uakod  i^roy  or  rod-brown 
skill  haiiL'S  loosL'ly  on  the  ponderous  and  olonyated  trunk  ;  and 
i1m'  slmrt  ti'i't  torniinate  in  broad  fin-liko  paddles,  rcsoniblinj^ 
l;iiu'.' ill-tUshioned  Haps  of  k'atlier.  Its  nun'enieiits  tm  land 
arc  fxtrcniely  slow  and  awkward,  reseniblin<j;;  those  of  a  liuj^v 
lalcipillar,  but  in  the  -water  it  has  all  the  activity  of  the  seals, 
nr  (Veil  surpasses  them  in  speed. 

(iicyarious,  like  the  seals  and  many  of  the  dolphins,  the 
wa liases  love  to  lie  on  the  ice  or  <,>n  the  sand-banks,  closely 
liijililkd  toi4"etlier.  On  the  spot  where  a  walrus  lands,  others 
ail'  Muv  to  follow;  and  when  the  tirst  comers  block  the  shore, 
ilms.'  which  arrive  later,  instead  of  landinj^  on  a  free  spot 
I  lilt  lit  r  on,  i»refer  giving  their  friends  who  are  in  the  way  a 
l;vii1|('  push  with  their  tusks,  so  as  to  induce  them  to  make 
riHiui. 

'liiimrous  and  almost  helpless  on  land,  Avhere,  in  spite  of 
ii-  rniiiiidiible  tusks,  it  falls  an  easy  jnvy  to  the  attacks  of 
mail,  t lie  walrus  evinces  a  j^-reater  dej^'ree  of  courage  in  the 
uaiii',  wlicrc  it  is  able  t(.)  make  a  better  use  of  the  strength 
and  wcaiMuis  l>estowed  upon  it  by  nature.  Many  instances 
ale  known  where  walruses,  which  never  attack  but  Avheu 
I  r 'Vokcd,  liave  turned  upon  their  assailants,  or  have  even 
a-M'nil)lc(i  from  a  distance  to  assist  a  woumled  conu'ade. 

liikc  tlio  seals,  the  walrus  is  easily  tamed,  and  of  a  most. 
iiirtttioiiate  temper.  This  was  shown  in  a  remarkable  man- 
ii'T  1>\  a  youni''  walrus  brou<>'ht  alive  from  Archanuel  to  St. 
I'riershurg  in  182!).  Its  keeper,  Madame  Denneliecq,  having 
1  iiilt.'il  it  with  the  greatest  care,  the  grateful  animal  expressed 
i'-^  hl.Msure  Avhenever  she  came  near  it  by  an  atfectionatc 
i-iiiiit.  It  not  only  followed  her  with  its  eyes,  but  was  never 
k  I'liii'V  than  when  allowed  to  lay  its  head  in  her  la}>.  The 
1'  iMliiiess  was  n'eiprocal,  and  Madame  Deunebecq  used  to 
1  ilk  ol'lier  walrus  with  the  same  warmth  of  affection  as  if  it 
I  I'l  liceii  a  pet  lap-dog. 

Niat  parental  love  should  be  highly  developed  in  animals 

I'lus  susceptible  of  friendship  may  easily  be  imagined.     Mr. 

'iiiiniit,  an  Ilnglish  gi'utk'man  \vliom  the  love  of  sport  led  a 

;!■  w  years  since  to  Spitsbergen,  relates  the  case  of  a  woinided 

"^^ alius  who   lield   a  very   young   calf  under   her  right  arm. 

|^\  liciicver  ihe  harpoon  was  raised  against   it,  the   mother 


46 


TIIK    roLAU    WORLD, 


carefully  shicMcd  it  witli  her  ov.'ii  body.  The  eouiit(Mii)ii(v 
of  this  poor  iiiiiiiial  was  never  to  be  for^^-otten  :  that  <ii*  lln 
(  alf  exi)ressive  of  abjeet  terror,  and  yet  of  such  a  boun(lK» 
c<»uii<lenco  in  its  mother's  power  of  protecting'  it,  as  it  swam 
ahm^'  nndei-  her  winj^-,  and  the  old  cow's  face  showinj^'  siidi 
reckless  defiance  for  all  tliat  could  be  done  to  heiself,  ;uu\ 
yet  such  terrilde  anxiety  as  to  the  safety  of  her  calf.  Tlii> 
parental  ail'ection  is  shamefully  misused  by  man,  for  it  is  n 


CO 


nnn(»n    artili<*e  of    the  Avalrus  liunters  to  catch  a   V( 


nui-' 


animal  and  mak(!  it  !>-runt,  in  order  to  attract  a  herd. 


The  walrus  is  coniined  to  the  coasts  of  the  Arctic  reo'ic 


Ills 


iiwav 


unless  Avlien  drift-ice,  or  some  fither  accident,  carries  it 
into  the  o])en  sea.     Its  chief  resorts  are  Spitzl)er^'en,  Nov 
Zemlva.  North  (Ireenland,  the  sliores  of  Hudson's  and  IJatiii 
bays 


U'l 


md   on 


tl 


le 


opp 


OS 


ih 


si< 


le  of  the   Polar  Ocean,  tl 


0(ii'. 


coasts  of  Eerinj^'s  Sea,  and  to  the  north  of  JJeriny-'s  Strait- 
the  American  and  Asiatic  shores  from  Point  Barrow  to  Ca]' 
North.  It  lias  nowhere  been  found  on  the  coasts  oi  Sil)i'i'i;i 
from  the  mouth  ol'  the  Jenisei  to  the  last-mentioned  jiin- 
montorv,  and  <»n  those  of  America  from  Point  J}arr(»w  V 
Lancaster  Sound  ;  so  that  it  inhabits  two  distinct  re^'ioiis, 
se[)arated  from  each  other  by  vast  extents  of  coast.  Its  t 
seems  to  consist  ]»rincipally  of  marine^  plants  and  shell-lisl 
thouL«'h  Scoresby  relates  that  he  found  the  remains  of  iisi!o> 
or  even  of  seals,  in  its  stouiach. 

As   the  Polar   bear  is   frequently  found   above   a  hiuidri'i 
miles  from  tlie  nearest   land,  upon  loose  ice  steadily  drifting' | 
into  the  M-a,  it  seems  but  fair  to  assij^'ii   liim  a  plact.'  aiiiniii; 
the  marine  animals  of  the  Arctic  /one.     He  lunits  by  scent. 


1101 


and  is  constantly  ruiiuin;.;'  across  and  aL»';',inst  the  wind  wliicli 
prevails  fnaii  the  northward,  so  that  the  same  instinct  avI 
dii'ects  his  search  for  l>rey  also  serves  the  imjjortant  purpo- 
lintr  him  in  the  direction  of  the  land  and  more  selr 
His   favouriti'   food  is    the    seal,    which    he    suritrisc 


<»t    Li'UU 


ice 


crouchiny'  doAvn  witli  his  fore  ])aws  doulded  undi'rneath,  ami 
pushin<4'  himself  noiselessly  forward  Avith  his  hinder  K'i;'> 
until  within  a  few  yards,  when  he  s])rin;;'s  upon  his  victim 
whether  in  the  Avater  ov  njion  the  ice.      II 


e  can  SAVim 


at  tlie 

rate  of  three  iiiiK's  an  hour,  and  can  dive  to  a  considerab!'.' 
distance,  ^riiout^'h  he  attacks  nran  Avlien  huno-ry,  Avounded. 
or  ])roV(»lce(l,  lie  Avill  not   injure  him   Avheii  food  more  to  li'- 


THE    I'OLAU   liKAU. 


iinlreil 
•il'tiiiL' 

scent. 
\vlui'!i 
wliioli  I 

•(■  st)liil 
i-]n'isc5| 
li,  \w\\ 
'V  leu's  1 
victim  I 
ill  tliel 

Iiuiult'il. 
t(.  li' 


likinu'  is  ill  liiind.  Sir  rruncis  M'Clintock  rolalos  iin  iiiicedole 
(.1  it  iiiilivc  of  Uporuiivik  who  was  oul  one  diivk  wiiiicr's  diiy 
visiliiiu"  his  si'iil-iiots.  Ho  found  a  seal  eiitinic;'led,  and  whilst 
IviiirJiuL;-  down  over  it  upon  the  iee  to  ^-et  it  clear,  he  received 
ii  sliiji  on  the  back — from  his  companion  iis  he  supposed  ;  but 
;i  ^rcdiid  and  hoiivier  blow  made  him  look  smartly  round. 
He  was  horror-stricken  to  see  a  peculiarly  f>Tim  old  beiir 
iiistiiid  of  his  comrade.  Without  taking-  further  notice  of 
the  iiiiin.  Bruin  tore  the  sciil  out  of  the  net,  and  be^'iin  his 
sn]i]>ci\  lie  was  not  interrupted,  nor  did  tli<'  niiin  wtiit  to 
Mc  till"  iiiciil  finished,  fearinu*  no  doul)t  that  liis  uninvited 
iiiid  uiiccriMiionious  <^Miesl  mio-ht  keep  a  corner  for  him. 

Many  instances  have  been  observed  of  the  peculiar  sii<4'aeiry 
ot  the  J*(tlar  bciir.  Scoresby  relates  that  the  ciqitain  of  ii 
AvlKilcr,  beinof  anxious  to  procun^  a  beiir  without  woundin<4' 
Ihc  skill,  made  trial  of  the  stralii^vm  of  liiyin<4'  th<^  noose  of 
a  ro|K'  in  the  snow,  and  plii('in<j;"  !i  piece  of  /i-/v;/r/,  or  whale's 
I'iii'ciisc,  williin  it.  A  beiir,  ranL^'inm'  the  neiyhbourin^^'  ice, 
was  siuiu  entice(I  to  the  spot.  Approaching'  the  biiit,  he 
sci/.i'd  it  ill  bis  mouth  ;  but  his  foot  at  the  same  momeiil,  bv 


il     liT 


A       (I 


)se 


f  the  ropt',  l)eing  enliino-led  in  the  noose,  he  pushed 
il  ((If  willi  the  iidjoining  p;iw,  iind  deliberately  retin-d. 
Alter  liiiviiiL;"  eiilen  the  piece  he  carried  a wa_\  with  him,  be 
rriuriicil.  The  noose,  with  inutther  piece  of  kreng",  being 
tlicii  r('|ilii(ed,  he  pushed  the  ro})e  aside,  and  again  walke<l 
triiiiiiphiiiilly  olf  with  the  kreiig.  A  third  time  the  not 
\\;is  liiid.  iind  this  time  the  ro[ie  AViis  buried  in  the  snow,  and 
till'  hail  laid  in  a  deep  holi^  dug  in  the  centre.  But  liriiin, 
utter  siiiitHng  about  the  phu-e  fur  ii  f 'w  minutes,  scriipcil  the 
siiuw  away  with  his  ]>;i\v,  threw  tlie  rope  iiside,  and  escaped 
niiliiM't  with  liis  ]iri/.e. 

The  she  bear  is  taught  by  a  wonderful  instinct  to  surlier 
111  r  \fiuiig  under  the  snow.  Towards  the  month  of  Dcccni- 
h'l-  she  retrciits  lo  the  side  of  a  rock,  where,  by  dint  of  scniping 
initl  iiUowing  the  snow  to  fall  upon  her,  she  forms  a  cell  in 
which  to  reside  during  the  winter.  There  is  no  fear  tluitshe 
islioiiM  |>e  stitied  for  wtint  of  air,  for  the  warmth  of  her  brciith 
iilwiiys  kee[)s  a  sniiiU  pass.ige  opi'ii,  and  the  sn.ow,  instead  of 
tunning  il  thick  unil'orm  sheet,  is  broken  by  ii  little  hole  roiuid 
wliieh  is  collected  a  mass  of  gdittering-  hoiir-lrost,  caused  b}' 
the  eoiigelation  of  the  breath.     Within  this  strange  nursery 


48 


TIIK    I'OLAiS    \V()i:iJ). 


slic  |»r()(luc('s  licr  yoim;^,  iiiid  reiiiiiiiis  wHli  them  boiioath  tlu' 
snow  until  {lie  mouth  (»t*  i\r:ircli,  wlicu  sluj  cuier^'cs  iuto  tlu' 
opi'u  iiir  will)  her  biihy  Ix'iirs.  As  tho  tiiiie  passes  ou,  the 
hrt'iitli  of  t]u3  I'auiily,  to;4"<'t]K'i'  with  the  warmth  exhalt'd 
iVom  their  bodies,  serves  to  eularj^'e  the  cell,  so  tlnit  with 
their  iucreasiny  dimeusious  tlie  aceouiuu)(.hiti()n  is  iucreasod 
to  suit  them.  As  the  ouly  use  of  the  suow-burrow  is  to 
shelter  the  youn«4',  the  uiale  l)ears  do  uot  liibernate  like  tin.' 
(emnles,  but  I'oiim  freely  about  duriu^"  the  wiuter-moutlis. 
liefore  retiriiio'  undor  the  snow,  the  bear  eats  enormously, 
iiud,  driven  by  an  unfailini>'  instinct,  resorts  to  the  most 
nutritious  diet,  so  that  she  becomes  prodi^-iously  fat,  thus 
laying-  in  an  internal  stm'e  of  alimentary  nnitter  which  eualilcs 
her  not  only  to  support  her  own  life,  but  to  suddeher  yonii^' 
during-  her  lonii;  seclusion,  without  takiuj^-  a  morsel  of  foml, 
IJy  an  admirable  provision  of  nature,  the  youn'4-  are  of  AVnn- 
derfully  suiall  dimensions  Avhen  compared  with  the  parent; 
and  as  their  ^roAvth,  as  lono-  as  they  remain  confined  in  their 
ci'vstal  nursi'ry,  is  remarkably  s1(.)av,  they  consequently  nccil 
but  little  foo<l  and  space. 

The  Polar  bear  is  armed  Avitli  i'oi'midable  weapons,  and  a 
proportionate  power  to  use  them.  His  claws  are  two  inches 
in  len;4'th,  and  his  canine  teeth,  exclusive  of  the  piirt  in  the 
jaAV,  about  an  inch  and  a  half.  Thus  the  hoards  of  provi- 
sions which  are  frecpiently  deposited  by  Arctic  voyaj^ers 
to  provide  f(tr  some  future  want,  have  no  «4-rea-ter  em'iiiy 
than  the  Polar  bear.  'The  linal  cache,'  says  Kane,  '  Avhich 
I  relied  so  much  upon,  was  entirely  destroyed.  It  liinl 
been  built  with  extreme  care,  of  rocks  which  had  been 
assend)led  by  very  heavy  labour,  and  adjusted  with  nnichai<l 
often  from  capstan-bars  as  levers.  Tlu'  entire  construction 
was,  so  far  as  our  means  permitted,  most  effective  and  re- 
sistiuL;'.  Yet  these  tii^-ers  of  tlu'  ice  seemed  hardly  to  have 
encounten'd  an  obstacle.  Not  a  morsel  of  ]>enimican  re- 
mained, except  in  tlu?  iron  cases,  Avhicli  beiuL*-  roinid,  with 
conical  ends,  delied  both  claws  and  teeth.  They  had  rolled 
and  [)awed  them  in  every  direction,  tossing-  them  alx)ut  like 
footballs,  althou;4'h  over  eighty  [)ounds  in  weio'ht.  An  alco- 
1m)1  can,  strongly  in)n-bound,  was  dashed  into  small  fraj,'- 
ments,  and  a  tin  can  of  licpior  smashed  and  twisted  almost 
into  a  ball.     The  claws  of  the  beast  had  perforated  the  metal 


AlUTIC    lilKDS. 


VJ 


,iim]  t  'I'M  it  ii]i  ;i>  with  ii  I'lijscl.  Tlii'v  wci'r  too  diiiiitj  for 
sill -iii'';it>  :  i^Toiiinl  (iitl'cc  tlii'V  li;iil  ;iii  cNidciit  I'clisli  i'or ; 
nM  iMii\,is  was  II  tiivoiiritt'  Coi'  some  r(';is<pn  or  otlicr;  cvfii 
dill'  llur.  wliirli  liad  l)i'iMi  I'ciircd  *"  to  take  possi'ssiuii  "  of  tin.' 
A\a>'('.  was  ;^'iiaw('il  ilowii  to  tlirNcrv  stall'.  Tlicy  liad  iiiadc  a 
iv_;i;lai'  IVolic  ot"  it  ;  roUiiiL;'  our  Ui't'ad-barn'Is  o'.cr  tlio  !<•('; 
iimK  iiiiaMt'  to  iiiasticute  our  licavy  iudia-rubbt'r  cloth,  ilivy 
liail  tint  it  u[i  ill  uiiiniiii4'iualilt'  hard  kiu>ts.' 

NiDiiltcrs  of  scii-hirds  aro  t'oiiud.  hrcL-diut^'  alon^;'  the  Ai'ctic 
;-iioiTsas  t'arasiiiaii  has  hitlici'to  pouctratod  :  jioiue  even  kt'cj* 
till'  MM  ill  the  liiL;h  latitudis  all  the  winter,  wlierovci'  opcu 
w  iter  r.\i>ts.  ( )]i  the  uiost  uort lit  rii  ro(dcs  t lie  ra zor-l (i II  rears 
it-  \iiuiil;',  and  the  I'uliu.ir  and  lioss'  L;"Tdl  haxc  hccii  seen  in 
l.iihs  of  uatci'  hcvond  S'J''  lat.  As  the  sun  ^'ains  in  [tower, 
eiiiiniioiis  troops  of  [)utUiis,  looms,  dovi'kies,  i'<»tL!X's,  sknas. 
]Hir'4vi'niasters,  Sabine's  54'ulls,  kittlwakcs,  ivory  ^'ulls,  aiiil 
Arctir  lerns.  return  to  the  north.  There  they  enjoy  the  lou^' 
Mininier  day,  and  revel  in  the  abini(hiiice  of  the  tish-teeniinn' 
Avatei's,  Itrinein^'  life  and  aiiiiuation  iido  solitudes  seldom  or 
].iiliaiis  never  disturl)ed  by  the  jtresence  of  man.  and  mine'linj^- 
t!i(  ir  wild  sei'eanis  with  the  hoarse-ivsoiindiny'  sur^'e  or  the 
liMwIiijM'  of  the  storm.  in  many  localities  they  bi'eed  in 
*s'i(  !i  abuinlaiice,  that  it  niav  be  said,  almost  uitlioiit  exa^'- 
L;.'iat  ioii.  til, it  they  darken  the  sun  when  they  ily,  and  hide 
1  'le  w  aters  when  t  hev  swim. 


Grnrnpus. 


I  II  u 
w.mIi's  ( 
I  liHIhlrl' 
;i  lljiprr 
..)■  |r,.|; 
<\r  I'cjii 
"11  till' 
\  Ijiilh'  LI 

iiiiL:'lit  ;il 
■  I. rill, I, I 


Or. I  fa  JciKull,  ti'iri  Kcvuiviiiir. 


CIIAITEIJ  V. 

\'u|i','iiii('  Ori^rin  "f  ilic  Isl.iiul  -Tlir   Ivloia  .li'ikiill — Lava  Slroaiiis — Tlic  I'lU'iii:. 
.Muiiiitaiiis  oTKrir^iivik     'Hie  ^^Ull  Caldrons  nf  Ixcvkjalilid  '-'riic  'rnnfro-livi 
j;.>yklii>li  ---'riii'(iiTal  (;.y-ii-— Tlh'  Htvokkr— (Vv-fa!  Pools     'I'lir  .\liiiann;i-'  - 
Tho  Siii-ls  licllir  -,!5paiitit'iil   rcc-ravc     'rin"   (i.itlia    Foss— 'I'lic   Drlii  I''oss    i 
mate — \'iactation — Cattle — Uarliai'Oiis  .Mmlr    of    Slu'cp-slicarinfi'  -  liuimlrr]- 
I'dlai'    licars — Ppii'ds— 'I'lin    I'ailor-diU'k — X'idoy — Vi;,'r — 'I'lio    Wild  8\van— T 
li'aviii — Till- JiTlalcon — 'I'ln^  (iiaiil   Auk  or  (icivfutrl — ,l''ish — l^'ishiiu;;  Sra-ni;- 1 
TIk'  AVhili' Shark  -  MiiU'i'al  Kiiigduin  — .Siilpliui' — I'oat  —Drift  Wood.  ? 

TOELAND  luio'lit  as  well  be  ciillod  Firolaiid,  for  all  its  lo,iiiiii 
I    square  miles  have  originally  been  n  j^iliea  ved  from  the  dcptln 
of  the  Avaters  by  volcanic  power.    First,  at  some  immeasuraUvf 
distant  period  of  the  n'orM's  history,  ihe  small  niielens  of  tli 
future  island  begtin  to  strugglti   into  existence   against  tli'|; 
superiiicundx'ut  weight  (»f  the  ocean  ;  then,  in  the  course '! 
ages,  cone  rose  afttn-  ccme,   crater  was  formed  after  crjitrr,! 
4'ruption  followed  on  eru})tion,  and  lava-stream  on  lava-stromii 
until  finally  the  Iceland  of  the  present  day  was  piled  up  ^vit' 
her  gigantic  ^  jidculls,'  or  ice-mountains,  and   her  vast  pi'"-j 
montories,  stretcdiiiig  like  hun'e  buttresses  far  out   into  tli' 
sea. 


nil',   ici:  i'ii;i,ii>  or  n  k  i.\m>. 


;i 


^.y  III     (Niiit'T.    when    nil    iiliiKiNl     |M'f|M'l  ii;i  1   iiii^'lit     cdvci's    tlic 

\\,l>|is  iif  tllis  tirr-l»(>ni  IiIIhI.    illld    tin'    W  ;l  VCS  nl'  ;|    stitl'Ill  V  tiCCilll 

iIhiihIi  r  iiLiiiiiist  its  slmrcs,  iiii;iL;-iiiiit  inn  ciiii  linrilly  |ii<-iin'(' 
;i  III. Iff  (li'Snliilc  sft'iir;  l>iit  ill  siiniiiicr  tlic  nij^'i^'cd  iiiilurc 
..(     Iii'laii'l    invests   itself    with    iiiiinv    ii   chiinn.       'i'lim   the 

.     ,  \,'  jviM.scs  with  (Icli^lit    on  ^-ret'ii  vnllevs   ;in<l  crvstiil    inlxes, 

<,ii    ihi'    |inr|»!e    hills    or    sno\v-e;i[t|MM|    iiioiintiiins  rising-    in 

\l|iiiii'  ^'niinleiir  iibove  the  distil  lit    liori/.oii,  and  the  stniiiLi'er 

iniulit  nhiiost  l)etein[)ted  to  excliiiiii   witli  her  patriotic  sons. 

;.    •  icel:iinl    is    the    best    land    under    the    sun.'       That     it    is 

mi.'  of  liie    most    interesting'  — tlir(Mit;-li    its    history,    its    in- 

li;iliitaiits.  and  above  all    its  natural   curiosities — no  one   can 

It  has  all  that  can  please  and  fascinate  the  noet,  the 


'|(M|l>t. 

artist,  the 


I' 


olo|H'ist,  or  the  hist(tvian  ;  the  prosaic  utilitarian 
iiloiie.  arcustoined  to  value  a  countrv  merely  by  its  productions, 
iiiiti'lil  turn  with  some  c(Uitempt  from  a.  hiiul  without  corn, 
witlioul  forests,  Avithout  mineral  riches,  and  covered  foi'  about 
two-thirds  of  its  surface  with  lioi^-s,  lava-wastes,  and  i^'laciers. 
The  curse  of  sterility  rests  chieily  on  the  south-eastern  and 
iriitral  parts  of  the  island.  TTere  nothing*  is  to  be  seen  but 
deserts  of  volcanic  stone  or  imuK.Mise  ice-iields,  the  iare-cst  of 
which  -the  Klofa  j(»kull — alone  extends  over  more  than  l()(i(l 
sfjuare  miles.  The  interior  of  this  vast  I'c^'ion  of  iu''\e  and 
'4'laiit'r  is  totally  unlvuown.  The  liiLi'hest  i)eaks,  tin,'  most 
dreadful  volcanoes  of  tlie  island,  rise  on  the  southern  and 
smith -western  borders  of  this  liitherto  inaccessible  waste  ;  the 
(h'aefa  Idukiug-  down  from  a  liei<;'ht  of  (>0<l(>  feet  U]>on  all  its 
rivals — the  8kaptar,  a  name  of  dreadful  si^'nihcance  in  the 
annals  of  Iceland,  and  further  on,  like  the  advanced  e-iim-ds 
cf  this  host  of  slumbering'  tires,  the  Katla,  the  jNFyi'dal,  the 
Hyjaljalla,  and  the  Hecla,  tlie  most  renowned,  tluuieh  not  the 
iiiest  terribl(\  of  all  the  volcanoes  of  Iceland. 

As  the  iec-liclds  of  this  northern  island  far  surpass  in 
iiiauiiitudc  those  of  the  A1[)S,  so  also  the  lava-streams  of 
-Ktiia  or  Vesuvius  are  insit^'iiilicant  when  compared  with  the 
I'lieniious  masses  of  molten  stone  Avliieh  at  various  periods 
li;i\e  issued  from  the  craters  of  Iceland.  Vnnn  Mount 
Skialilel)i'eith,  on  both  sides  of  the  Lake  (^f  ThiuL^'valla  as  far 
as  *'ai»e  Keykjanes,  the  travidler  sees  an  miinterrujited  lava- 
ti''U  more  than  sixty  miles  lony-  and  frequently  from  twelve 

E  '2 


Tin;    I'dl.Ai;    WnlJI.K. 


1(1  lil'tt'cii  Itmiid  ;  iiiid  |;iv;i-stff!iiiis  (if  still  luort'  L;i'4'i"'^''"  |"'"- 
j)(>i'ti<>iis  rxisl  ill  iiiiiiiv  dtlii'i'  piirts  of  tln'  isliiuil,  piirlicu- 
liirly  ill  111"'  iiilcrior.  In  ;;fii('r;il  llirsc  hivii-strt'iiiiis  Innc 
(•(»(»|i'<|  down  into  tlic  most  liiiitiistic  loriiis  iiiiji'^iuiiltlo.  "  li 
is  iiiivdlv  hossiliic/  siivs  Mr.  IIoII.iihI,  '  to  i^ivr  iinv  idcii  of  tln' 
l^'ciicriil  ii|tpt'iiriinc('  of  tlicsc   once   nioltfii    iiiiissrs.      lit  if  a 

I^TCilt  cVily'  IlilS  toppled  oVtT  into  sollir  deep  cri'VllSSO, — tlli'iv 
il  Illll^'C  IlliISS  llSIS  Im'CII  llpllCilVtd  IiImiVC  till'  fiiTV  stiTiini  wliirli 
liiis  seethed  iiiid  itoiled  ;iroiili<l  ils  l»;ise.  Here  is  every  s1i;i]m 
mid  li^'ure  tli.it  sciil|»t  me  ('(.iild  di  si;.;ii  or  iiim^'iiiiit  ion  pid mv, 
jUlllMed  t()|>'i'tlier  in  Li'rotescille  eoiil'iisioll,  whilst  e\-ervwliiT, 
iiivriiids  ui'  hori-id  spikes  ;ind  sharp  shaptdess  irreij'iilai'iti(>- 
hrist le  amidst  them.'  * 


Or;io(u  .U:kull,  the  Moiiai'-li  ot  IcolanJic  Mouutiuu?. 

jjy  the  eruptions  of  the  Icelaiidie  voleaiioes  many  a  tun 
]iiea(U>\v-laiid  has  heeii  converted  into  a  stony  wilderness  :  hut 
if  the  subterranean  tires  have  fre(nieutly  bro)i<j;ht  ruin  aii'I 
desolation  over  the  island,  they  have  also  endowed  it  wit!, 
many  natural  wonders. 

In  the  '  burning'  mountains  '  of  Krisuvik  on  the  soiitli- 
^vestern  coast,  ii  wlnde  bill-slope,  witli  a  deep  narroAV  <4erL:> 
at  its  foot,  is  covered  with  innnnierable  Ixnlin;^'  spring's  jiinl 

'•"   '  iV;ik>.  I'liSM'.'-.  and  ( i  laoii  r,s." 


tUIiiliroli 

>l''lM'll. 
|.|..te|\  I 
The  N 
.iiiimml;.-! 
ill  oiii'  (,| 

"11    tlie    1: 
W  iMerile 

srale.      'I 

;ill     tilled 

III  ill i II l;'   ( 
einitliii; 

■>lll|  Jllil'O 
<i>iileiits 
;ippe,irs  t 
iiiiiiill  li;il 
I'lisiii,  eiii 
state.     '1' 

less  1  li;iii 
illtel\;||s 

\\  itli  a  \  i( 
'•ix  111'  ('i<_ 

elle  of    1  Ik 

•^pel,  sav> 
liave  desil 
infernal  <j; 

Aliio|i:j;' 

iiiindreds 
-"iiie  are  ( 
''■illiiiiM'.  V 
nature  are 
iimst  reinii 
i:i  tile  •  va 
Mp'iir    ,.) 
•witl.'red 
'■'iiMtaius 
'  iiiitiiii4-  i 
I'ili'e  of  a 
-'■11  the  SI 
i':^a  eo];i; 


1I<»T    S|'|!l\(iS    (»!•■    MKLWIt. 


ruihiiii'lcs.  \\lio>c  .li'iisc  i'\li;iliilii)tis,  siirciitliiiL:'  ;iii  iiiinlci'iiUli' 
st'iicli.  issiir  iiiit  i>r  llii'iiirtli  with  ii  liissiii;;'  iinisc  ninl  cuiii- 
|,|it,'lv  liiili'  I  he  \  i 


I'W 


'I'lir  N;'iiii;il\  or  lioiliiiL':  liiuil-ciildi'diis  of  I'c_vlv/|;lliliil,  ^it^l•lt('(l 
;iiiiuii;^s1  ii  raiiii't.'  nf  iiKiuiitaiiis  near  tin'  Myviilii  (li'iiiil-lakc), 
ill  niii' of  tlic  must  sdlilarv  spnts  in  iIh'  iiorlli  nf  \\u>  islaiitl, 
>iii  till  liui'di'V  of  ciKiniioiis  lava-til 'Ms  ami  < -I'  a  vast  mil;iii>\vii 
Ifiiii'ss.  rxliiliit    viiKaiiir   [.uwcr  on   u   still  nioiT  ^i^'aiitif 


U  ill 


>i'ii 


Ir.     'riit'ro  ai'c  m>  less  than  twi'lvr  of  Ih 


rsi'   set 'til  in;.';    [ilt; 


iiil  IiIIimI  with  a  ilisn'nstiiiL;'  thirk  siiniv  'j^vcy  or  Mark'  li(|iiiil, 
liiijlinn'  or  simiiH'i'inn"  with  L;i't'at('r  or  less  vchoinem-t',  ami 
ciiiiiiiiiH' ilriisc  vojiinii's  of  steam  stroii^jlv  ini[ir('^'iiati'(l  with 
>iil|  liiirous  i^'asrs.  Somi'  sputtrr  furiously,  scattering'  their 
iiijili'iits  on  every  side,  wliile  in  others  the  mmM\  souj* 
ii[»[n.'ars  too  tliii  l\  to  l)oil,  and  after  remaiiiiii<4'  tjuicsccMit  foi' 
•.ilioiit  liiiU"  ;i  III  ill  lite,  rises  up  a  few  imdies  in  the  cent  re  of  the 
I'lisiii.  emits  a  [»till' of  steam,  and  then  subsides  into  its  i'ormer 
Nliite.  The  diaiaeter  of  the  lai'L;'est  of  ;ill  the  pits  cannot  he 
Irs^  than  fifteen  feet  ;  and  it  is  a  sort  of  nmd  (Jevsir,  for  at 
iiiti'ivals  ;i  I'ohimn  of  its  lilaidc  liijiiid  contents.  ace()ni[)iinicd 
\\itli  ;i  violent  rush  of  steam,  is  thrown  up  to  the  hcit^'ht  of 
-ix  or  ei^'lit  feet.  l*rofcssor  Sartorins  von  Waltersliausen, 
niie  of  1  lie  few  travellers  who  have  visited  this  rejiiavkalde 
sjiut,  savs  (litit  the  witches  in  Murlnlh  could  not  jiossihly 
lesired   a  more  lit  tin:;'  [dace  for  the  preparation  of  their 


ave  I 


1^ 


internal  ^riiel  than  the  mud-caldrons  of  I'evkjahlid. 

Aiiion^'  the   hot  oi"   boiling*   s[)i'in^\s   of   Iceland,  which    in 

liumlreds  of  ]. lares   l^'UsIi  forth   at  the  foot  of  the  mountains, 

Millie  are  of  a    identic  and   even    How,    and   can   he   used    for 

Itutliiii;^-,  washiny,  or  builiiiL^',  while  others  of  an  intermittent 

I  Ml  are  are  mere  uhjoets  of  curiosity  or  wonch.'r.     One  of  the 

iMo^i  reiiiarkalile  of  tlu'  latter  is  the  Tmc^o-hver  at  Reiklndt, 

':i  ihe  •  valley  of  siiiolce,'  thus  named   from   the   c(dumiis   (d' 

I    \,i[ioiir   emitted    hy    the   thermal    springs   which    are    here 

j|    M-aitered   alioiit   with   a   lavish    hand.       It    consists  of    two 

MMtaius    within    a    yard   of    eacdi    other — the    lan^'er      iie 

'laiiiiiL;'  a  column  (>f   IxtiliiiL;"   water  ten  feet    Iuli'Ii    for  the 

I'iiie  of  about  four  minutes,  when  it  entirely  subsides,  ami 

'lieu  the  smaUer  one  operates  for  al)out  three  minutes,  ejei-t- 

^  .;  -oliimii  (d'uboiit  fiNc  feet.     Tlu'  alternation  is  [perfectly 


5-1 


tin;     I'OI.Ali     UnK'IJi 


rci^iiliir  ill  tunc  ;iiiil    rorcc.  iiinl  liici'c  iirr  ;iiit  liciit  ic  iiccdiin 
(>r  ils  11111';!  iliiiLj'  cxiict  it  mlc  for  I  lie  last   Inn  id  red  \  cars. 


lint 


i<]   al 


II 


n-  siiriiic^  asul    Iciiiitaiiis   of    Ireland    llitTi 


i> 


ltd 


III'  (<>  ('(|Ual,  cil  licr  i'l  Li'i'ii  iidciir  <>]•  i'imiowii,  t  he  LiiTat  (  u'vsir. 
w  iiicli  is  not  iiicrrlv  one  dj'  t  he  curinsit  ie.s  of  ilic  comil  rs\  Kiit 
one  of  t  lie  wonders  of  1  he  earth,  as  there  is  nolhiiiL:'  to  eoiii- 
I'.'ire  to  it   ill  aii\  oilier  |>ai-<  of  tlie  worhl. 

At  the  foot  of  the  liiUiciifjiill  liill,iii:i  L^reeii  [thiin,  t  hroiit^ji 
whicji  sevei'a!  rivers  iiieaiidei'  like  t  hreads  of  silver,  ;nid  wliciv 


leiv 


lln- 


W 


(•]  tains  of  dark -roll  mred  inoiinliiins,  overt  o]i]>ed  hei'e  and  t 
hv  distant  snow-peaks,  form  a  p,'i'aiHl  hiU  nie|aiieli<p| y  ]pa 
I'ania.  dense  \«i|  nines  of  steam  ii  id  irate  from  afai"  1  he  site  ofn 
li(de  system  of  <  lieriiial  ^]))'in'j:'s  coiej-re^'aled  oil  a  small  |iirci' 
of  >4'roiiiid  wlii(di  lioes  Hot  exceed  twt  i \e  aeres.  In  aii\'  oIIiit 
s|)()t,  the  smallest  of  these  boiling' Ibiiiitaiiis  would  arrest  ilii- 
traveller's  attention,  l)iit  liere  his  whole  mind  is  ahsorhed  \>\ 
the  yreat  CJeysir.  Tn  the  eonrse  of  et.aiiilless  agvs  this  nioiiarcli 
of  s[)riii;4's  lias  forined,  ont  of  the  siliea  it  dejiosits,  a  moiiiiil 


w 


hieh   rises  to  about   tliirtv   feet    al  ove  tlie  Li'eneral  surf; 


of  the  jilaiii.  and  slopes  on  all  siiles  to  the  distance  of  ;i 
Ini  lid  red  feet  or  tliere;il>oiit  s,  from  the  l.)o}'der  of  a  larii'e  eirciihii 
liasiii  sit  Hilled  in  its  ceiiti'e  and  measiiriiiL;'  al)out  liltv-six  Irrt 


the  i^'realest  diameter  and  liftv-tAvo   feet  in  the  JKii'n 


>We 


1    Hh 


•(  'W- 


111  the  midd!<' of  this  l);isin,  formiiie'  as  it  were  a  g'ig'aiitii' 
i'unnel,  there  is  a  pqie  or  luhe,  whicli  at  its  ojieuiiin'  ii 
l);isiii  is  eie'hteeu  or  sixteen  fet'i  in  dituneter,  l)Ut  nan 
eoii'-ider;ihly  at  a  litlle  distance  from  the  mouth,  and  tin  ii 
appciii's  io  he  not   more  than   ten  or  iwtd\('  feet   in  (hiinictcr. 

!i   Inis  lieeli   [trohed    to  a   depth  of  seveHy   feet,  hilt    it   is  liiei'i' 

o    ill'' 

howels   of  tlie  earth.     'The   sides  of  the   tiihe  are   smoothlv 
lolished,  ;iiid   so  ]iard  tlait  it   is  not    nossihle   to  strikt'  ulf  ii 


tli;in  pro!  ,ilile  that    hiddeu   (luninels  raiid'y  furtlier    iiit 


1 

[liece  of  it   x^itii  a  li;iiiiiiier 


(leiieriilly  the    whole  ii;isin  is  j'olliid    filled  uj)    to  the   1 


liniii 


wi 


til  sea-g-reeii  w;iteras  pure  as  crystal,  and  of  a  ti'iiifiei'al 
from   l.--(»    to    I'.'i*.      Astonished  at    the   jdarid  lrain(iiill 


llVr 

itv 


of  the  j>ool,  Ihi'  tra\c!ler  can  hardly  helie\e  that  he  is  re;illv 
slaiidiii;^'  on  the  hrink  of  the  lar-famed  (ieysir;  hul  suddm'; 
a  siihteriM  iie;i  11  ihiiiider  i,'  heard,  tlie  Liroiind  (remliles  uinli'i' 
his  feet,  ilic  w.itcr   in  the  hasiii   lieuins  to  simmer,  and   l;i'''„'' 


TilK    .^TK'oKKI!. 


Pi: 


Imlilili'S  III'  s!c;i  III  rise  IVom  llic  1  iihc  ;i  ml  InirsI  (Ui  rr;i''liiii^- 
I  lie  >iirt';ii-t'.  t  lii'iiN'i  iiil;'  141  siiKill  jets  (if  sjiray  lo  Hit'  lit'iL;lit  »>t' 
scv«T;il  I'l'i't.  Knci'v  iiist;iii1  he  expects  to  witin'ss  the  ^'rinid 
^|ll•,•ta(•^'  wliieli  liiis  rliietly  iii'ltieed  liiiii  1(1  visit  this  iiui-thei'ii 
hiii.l.  hill  seen  the  hasiii  hecoiiies  tr.iii(|nil  ;is  before,  aiid 
the  (l.'iise  vapeiii's  [U'odiieeti  h_v  tlie  ebullition  are  walled 
awav  by  the  bi'ee/e.  These  siiiallcr  eruptions  are  reyularly 
|a-.tf  ivpca'e'd  e\i'ry  ei;^1ity  or  ninety  uiiinites.  but  tVecjueiitly 
til.  tfa\ellei'  is  oblii^'ed  to  wait  a  whole  thiy  or  even  h)ii!4'er 
lii'lore  he  >i'es  the  whole  power  of  the  (ieysir.  A  detoua- 
liiMi  joiiilcr  than  usual  ]»reeedes  one  of  these  i^riiiid  erup- 
ticus;  the  water  in  the  l)asin  is  violently  a^'itati^'d  ;  the 
tube  boils  vehemently;  and  suihlenly  a  ina^'iiiHcent  eoluniu 
if  wati'i',  clothed  in  vapour  of  a  da/./.lin;j;'  whiteness,  shoots 
M|i  into  ilir  air  \\!<h  imniense  iin[ietiiosity  and  noise  b» 
the  heiii'ht  of  se\ciity  oi'  eij^'hty  fe«'t.  and,  radiating"  at  its 
ape.x.  >]iowers  water  and  steam  in  every  direction.  A  second 
et'iiptitin  and  a  third  rapidly  tViliow,  and  after  a  lew  minutes 
the  fain  -pcctacle  has  passed  away  like  a  fantastic  vision. 
'I'lie  basin  is  now  eoin]>letely  drie<l  up,  and  on  lookiuL;'  down 
to   the  -haft,  v\[i'    is  astonished   to  see  the  water  about  six 


n  ill'' 
.■r<  'W- 
hni 

leti'V. 
lliefi' 

o  i!k 

1 11  111) 
(iir  ;l 

f  rim 
•atiiiv 
lillity 
renllv 
deii': 

Uliili'V 

la''Ut' 


in 


•I    I'l'Miii   the  rini.  an 


il   as   t 


raii(|uil  as   in  an  ordinary   we 


dl. 


Alb'v  about    ihirt  V  or  fort  v  niiimtes  it   auaiji  be^'ins   to  rise. 


aii'l  after  a  few  lion 
11 


rs  reaches  the  brim  of  the  ba-^in.,  whei 


ice 


mound    into    Ihe    llvita 


it    llow>  down    file   slope   of   lb 
\Vliit(  -river. 

Siieii  the  >iiltterraiieoii>  thunihi',  the  shaldtiL;'  oi'  the  i^i'oiind, 
tlic  siniiiieriiiL:'  abo\e  the  tulie,  and  the  other  [ihe]iomena 
u  iiicli  attiMid  eai  h  ininoi-  eruption,  be^i'in  ayain,  to  be  tbjiowed 
i'V  a  ih  w  [leriod  of  rest,  and  thus  t  his  woiidi.'rful  play  <  filature 


's  on  (lav  after  da\.  vcar  after  \ear.  and  <'tidiirv  after 


cell- 


'nr\.     The  iiiuund  oi  fhe(ie\sir  lieais  w  if  nes:-  to   its  ii 

luiti 


iinieiise 


luily.  as  itr.  water  eontains  Imt  a  minute  portion  of  silica. 

After  thi-    (b-ysir  the  most    remarl:al>!e    fountain   of   these 

I'lilepi'a  ail    lleldx   is   the    L;'reat    S'rokkr,    situated    about   four 

iiMi'irc'l  fci't  from  the  former.     It.-,  tube,  the  inai'u'in  of  w  hieh 

H   ahiiiist    even    with  the    general    surface,  the   small    mound 

il  1      In  Iteiiii;   bai'tllv  discernibk',   is    funiiei-shajted   or  re- 

bliii:;'  ihe  ilower  ofa  eonvolvnbis.  ha  vinu"  ti  (h'pt  h  of  foiiy- 

'U'lit  feet,   and  a  dia  meter  of  si  \  feet  at    thenioiitli,  but  ci.n- 


•la 


56 


Till-;    I'OI.AU    UOIil-l). 


tl'llCtillU",   at    t  \Vt'lll_V-t  wo    feci     tVolll    tllr    lidttolii.   Ill  (i|il_\    rlc\rii 

ihclics.  Tlic  water  .sttuids  IVom  nine  \<>  t  wflvc  t'ccl  iimlcv  t  ln' 
liiiin,  ;iii.!  is  L^c'iicraHy  ill  U'lciit  clHiUit  ioii.  A  slmi't  tiiiir 
liflni'i'  tlif  lii'^^iniiiiiu'  (if  tilt.'  eniptioiis,  wliich  :ir<"  iiidiv 
rjV(|Ut'iit  tliaii  tiio^c  i>\'  Ihi'  n'rcat  (''cysir,  an  ciidi'iiious  mass  M 
of  sicaiii  nislics  iVoiii  the  tiilic,  atitl  is  followed  ]»_v  a  i'a|iii| 
.^iicct'ssiiiii  (tf  Jets,  someliiues  I'isiiiL^'  to  the  liei^lil  of  i'jOdi' 
I  ■"■)(>  feet,  and  dissolviiiL;"  int(,i  silvery  mist.  A  [leculiaritv  of  the 
Sti'oklcr  is  that  it  can  at  any  lime  Ix' [»rovoKed  to  an  ei'ujitiMii 
itv  throwing'  int<t  t lie  onlice  lurn'e  masses  of  peat  or  turf: 
thus  cl^ikiiiL;'  liie  sli.ift  and  prevent  in^-  the  free  esca[)e  of  ih.- 
steam.  Aiier  the  lapse  o\'  ahont  ten  minntes.  the  hoili'i;' 
Ihiid.  a>  if  indiuiiant  al  this  attem[>t  n[>on  its  lihi'iiy.  heavc< 
lip  a  eohimn  of  mnd  and  uater  witli  i'ra^anenfs  of  pcai  av 
hhiek  as  ink. 

Ahont  1  .')0  paces  from  tJio  L;'i"Oat  (Icysir  are  several  pools  nt 
I  he  m(tst  h('aiit  ifnlly  (dear  water,  tintinn'  svilh  I'Vei-y  shade  ol 
1  he  pnrest  i^'reen  and  hi  lie  t  he  fanlast  ieal  forms  of  t  lie  silicieii 
Iravei'tin  which  (dothes  their  sides.  'Jdie  sli;4'htes1  iiiotidli 
commiinie.ited  to  the  smdai'e  (piivers  (h»wii  to  t!ie  hottoui  "t 
these  crystal  i^"r()ttoes,  and  imparts  what  iiiii;h!  he  called  ;i 
svni[iat  hetie  tremor  o!'  the  water  \o  every  (hdicate  incrnstatinn 
and  plant-lik'e  eJil<»rescenee.  'Ahnhliirs  ('a\-t>  could  not  Ix' 
nioi-e  iKMiitifiil.*  says  I'reycr ;  and  ^fr,  Holland  remarks  that 
neither  desci'iption  nor  (h'awin^-  is  capable  (>\'  ix'w'iii'j:  a  siif- 
li<-ie!it  idea  of  the  sine-ulurity  and  loveliness  of  this  s[)()t.  hi 
iiian\  [daces  it  is  daiiL^'erous  to  ap[)roacJi  within  several  feet  cf 
the  marLi'in,  as  the  <'arth  overhan^^'s  the  water  and  is  lu-llcw 
underneath,  siipp(»rte(l  only  hy  incrustations  scarcely  a  fent 
thick.  A  [ihini;'!'  into  waters  of  about  20ir'  wonhl  be  [taviii;.' 
rather  too  dearly  for  the  couteinplatioii  of  their  fairv-lik^' 
I'cauty. 

'Ihe  L^ii^aiit  ic  (diasni  of  tiu'  Ahnanna<4;ja  is  another  ('f  the  vol- 
eanic  wonders  of  Icidan*!.  Aflei-  a  lon;^'  and  ied.ldus  i'id,e  evil' 
ihe  vast  la\a-[dalii  wliicli  extends  between  i\\v  Slcahdell  iiiiil 
ilu'  lal<e  ol'  'I  hiiiuvalla.  the  travtdler  sn<ldenly  limls  ]iiii:>-i' 
arrested  in  his  path  liy  ;in  apjiareiit  ly  iiisnrnion  lit  aide  obst.n!  ■ 
i'l.r  the  etiornioiis  AlmaiMKUxJa,  er  Allman's  j,*iff.  siidd>  iil 
•japes  liiiieath  his  feet-   a  cohiv^al  rent  extending;'  aliove  a  ni:' 


in  leiiut  h.  and  eiieloxd  "II  !>oi!i  sides  b\  altni[it  walls  of 


i.iii' 


l:i\a.   (I-.', 

from   ah 

\         -JM'lMlilll 

li:i\e|i"s 
miles  Cm 

f'flill     of 

has    itse 

e|V\ici>,s 

^ay--  f;ni'( 
tioiis  (if 
;ii!iid  the 

h:'l\Vefll 
:^'ir;4'e,>.  it 

I'f    IlloJti'I 

its  varied 
thiii^rs  tu 
•  IS  i!  cipiih 
elaiii  of  ' 
adjoiiiiiio- 
I  v>.i  para  I 
te  luark  I 
or  iiian'n\' 

>-lirl;icc  h,' 

llleit.'ll      st 

'■a\rin    iiii 

deWII."         Ii 

lijii    has    I 

'■eV.|V(l    \vi 

'  '.N'l'aa,  ho 

I'iideaii    ( 
''>V"eli    it.s  \ 

'"f  a   iiioiii 

''V  a    cin-i 

'•"la  ielnl  ,, 

■'  peitr  croii 
ii'  till'  Aim; 

•    llrrv,.-t|-vi 

'  iv;(->li ,},,._ 
''•'•':illdic    (, 


Till-:    Al.M.VV.VAn.lA. 


57 


a  a 

iiMi 

hat 
^ut'- 
lii 

■1  cf 

t'.JUt 

IV  ill'.' 


V<M- 

( >Vt' 

iiiMi: 


lii;i' 


1,1  \;i.  rivqU'-iitly  il[i\v:ii'il>  (if  ;i  ]iili!(li'r(l  tret  lii'_;'li.  ilinl  sc  |  lii  r;it('(l 
IVuiii    ;|l)iil!t     lit'lV   t"    S('\('llt\    trrl     Iroin    f;|cll  <  )t  111 'l'.       A    colTc- 

•.|M-iniinL;'  '•li'i^^iii-  ''"t  <>r  iiilrridr  (liniriisiciir    lln-  llnirnit  ( lj;l,(•l• 
|^l\l•l^s  iJit't.  ('I'dlS  its  I'lilck   l'i!i!l|iitrt    1<i  t  iic  ciisl  .  illiollt  ('i;_;'llt 
mill's  t'urt  I MT  (111  ;  :i  ii(M»i  ■!  li  torni  t  hr  In  Miiiilai'ii's  i>f'  IIh'  \ criiaiit 
pl.iiii    >>{'  'riiiii^v;ill;i.  wliicli   I)_v  n  ^i'iiihI  cntuulsion  of  iiatiuv 
!i,is    it.--'ir   I'ccii    sliiilliTcil    into    iiiiiuiiiri'iilili'    siniill   [laraild 
(■ri'\  icrs   aiiil   lii^suivs   til'ty   or  sixty  t'fft    (lfr|».      •  A^cs  a,n"<'." 
^a\s  l.iii'i]  Duttt'i'lii.  "  some  \  ast  riiiiiiiint  ion  ^liwok  tlirtouinla- 
(i. Ills  III'  lilt.'  island;  ami   liiiMiliiiu';   up  I'i'imii  sourt-rs  faraway 
;ii!iiil  Ihi'  iiilaiul  liill.-.  a    lii'i'v  ilclu^X'  uiusl   liavr  i'usIumI  dowii 
lictWi'i.'ii    llii'ir    riders,    iiiili!,   I'scapinn'    fi'oiii    llio    narrower 
:4MrLi"i",>.  it   fouml  si'acr  to  i^prcad  itsrlf   into  one   l)roa(l   shed 
ill'  iiiiilti'ii  stoni'  o\i'r  an  ontiri'  dislrift   of  country,  rciliu-inu' 
its\aiii'il   surfat'i'  to  one  vast    lilaclccnud   lr\i'l.      ()n('  of  two 
tliiii'^s  thru    n-ruj";  ■'(]  :   lit  her  1  he  vilrilli'd  mass,  foiitracting- 
.IS  it  coiiIimI,  tlir  (Ciitrc  area  of  Jifty  ^-l(uar('  niilfs  (the  prose'nt 
hlaiii  of  Tliin^'valla !  Inirst    asuuili'i-  at   citlirr  sido   from    tlif 
iiiijiiiiiinu' plati'aii.  and  sinking'  down  to  its  pri'scnt  level,  left 
l\v.)  [larallel  i^'jas  or  cliasins,  wliicli  form  its  lateral  lioundaries, 
111  liiaflc  the  limits  uf  the  di.>rn]ttion  :   or  else,  while  the  [»itli 
or  marrow   of  the   |;i\a  was   still    in    a    lluid    state,  its   iij»[iei' 
--iiii'ace  hccanu' solid,  ami  foiaiietl   a    roof,   heiuMth  which   the 
iiinlicii    stream    llowed    on    to    lower    levels,    leaxiiiu'    a    vast 
ia\eni    into   which    tin'   iqqier   crust   subsequently    iiluni|>ed 
iliiwii."      ill  the   lapse  (A'  years,  the   holtoin  of  the  Almanna- 
'ij.i    has    hecdiiie    ^'radually    lilled    up    to    an   e\en    surface, 
>■  •vcivi]  with  the  most  heaiitiful  turf,  except   where   tlii-   rivi'r 
<<.\i'raa.  hiiuiiditiL;'  in  a  ma^'niliceiit  catai'act  t'rom  lli.'  hiii'her 
I'latcaii  over   the   precipici',  ilows   ['<>v  a    ceifain  di>fame  be- 
IW'cii   its-  walls.      .\t    the   \\>iA    of  the   fall,  ihewatei's   lill^•er 
for  a    iiioiiienl    in   a    dark.   deep.  brimmiiiLi'   pool,  ipeiiimed   in 
hy  a    circle   of    ruined  rocks,  in    which   aiicienlly   all    woinen 
'••iiivicti'd  of  ca)  lit  a  I  crimes  were  imm.'diately  drow  -led.    Many 
ii  pnur  oroue.  accused  of  wittdicraft,  has  thus  ended  her  days 
ill  tile  Ahiiannauja.      i\s  may  easily  be  imae'ined.  it  is  rather 
:  ui'i've-ti'vin^'  task  to  descend  into  ihe  chasm,  ovor  a  rui;V'd 
luv;i-.-,lo[te.  whei'e  the  least  false  ste)»  i,ia_\  prow  I'atal:  hut  the 
iilic   hoises   are   >o  sui'e-footed.  thai    ihe\  call    -afe!\   lie 
'.;,d.      I'lom   the   bottom  ii    i>   i'as\    to   di^i  iu^  ni-.h    i..    the 


r,H 


Tin:   i'»>i,Ait  \V(»iiM>. 


one  (';i('i'  iii;n'l>;s  iilid   Ci  iriiiii  *  ioiis  cviiclly  i'<iri'i'S]n 'iHliii;^'.  tliiui^li 
ilt     ;i     ilin'ciclil     l('\cl.   willl    tlic.-^c    nil     tlli'     I'llft'    (i|ijnisit(',    iiinl 

c'viili'iilh  sliowiii;^'  tli;it   IIk'V  oih-o  !i;iil  (l(>\'cl;iil(M.l   into  (';i.!i 
oilier.  Iicioiv  tilt'  iuiM'oiis  iiuios  was  reiit  astindi'V. 

'Two    Ica^'iics    IVoiii    J\aIiiiaiistuiiL;'a.    in    an    iiiiniciisr    la\:: 
Held,    wliicli    pro'iaMy    oi'i^'inalcil    in     llic     l>aM    .)ol<iill.   aiv 
^^itlUlte(l    tli<'   rciiowncd   .Surts-lullir,  or  raves  ui'  Suj-tur.  the 


.--i.irLs-  I  loHir. 


]iriiiee  of  darlciiess  an<l  (ire  ol'  ilie  aiieiiMit  Scaiulinav  im. 
ni\  tliolo^v.  The  |ii'inci|ial  entrance  to  the  eaves  is  an  e.\-  i. 
ten.Nive  cliii-^ui  ioi'ined  liy  the  i'allin;4'  in  of  a  part  (tt"  the  lii\;i- 
looC;  so  that,  on  deseoiidinLi'  into  it,  the  visitor  linds  hini-^i'lt 
riLi-ht  in  the  month  of  the  main  ea\ern,  which  runs  in  ;iii 
almost  sti'ai^'hl  line,  and  is  nearlv  a  niih*  in  length.  !;» 
avcra^v  hciu'ht  is  ahont  tort  v.  ami  its  hreadth  iil'ty  feet.  Tln' 
lava-crnsfwhi(  h  forms  its  roof  is  ahont  twelve  feet  tlii'i. 
ami  has  (he  a|>|>eava-iice  oi'  beiuL;'  sti'alified  and  cohnnii;ii'. 
like  basaltic  pillars,  in  its  toi'mation.  .Many  of  the  idot-ksii! 
lava  tluis  foi'med  havt'  hecome  detaehed  ainl  falli'ii  into  tlir 
cavern,  where  I  hey  lie  piled  \\[>  in  u'reat  heaps,  and  liei.vii^ 
tax  the  patieme  t>f  the  ir.iveller.  who  ha.-  to  sci'amhle  eVii' 
the  rULi'n'cd  stones,  and  c,in  hardly  avoid   sli|>pin:.r  uimI  stiaii- 


'  1 1 1 1 1 '_;  it 

.(lid    II!:! 

!■'   tlie. 

Illllj'iv     1 

li'MUt\ 

Uie.  !l|l\- 

:ji'"iij,  Ml 

lllr     IVimI 

<  '|||llllln> 

»:lll^.    ill 

liiladivdl 

^m'H;    a.st( 

'ile     Slll'1 

■  i"'i-l;|i-j,. 

"lie  of  111, 

"f  Cie  (Hi 

i'Voiii     ( 

i.'ic    cciili 

-I'l"-.  win 

'■inMlih  'tis 

i.M-V    ;,||m 

'"■'■•idlll.    i 

■iXW'J  the  ; 

'''■'■i\e    the 

'  "'l'e\v    fnr 

'";ir  liii;..;e 

'liiliililli<-; 

'  :illks. 

1  i\>'    clii, 

^     '..i   !i..    ih 

'11  1  111'  mi, I, 

'  'lli"f  and 

'     1  ( i  1  1 1  < 

'■^'^1  ;■    ■    La 

'■  "iiitry.  c'oi 

i'1'T..VS    cjist 
f1■:^;•^       1,:.    J 

1!' 


Jes.^ 


^ri;'iS'iii:i,[.ii; 


•ifj 


l\  Kill 

1   r.\- 


iii-i'ii 


l,|iii._:  inlu  till'  liolc,^  I't.'t wt'iMi  lliciii,  vavifd    liv  pouls  of  \v;i1ri' 

.,lnl    in;!S.-A'S    nC   r^lloW.        I'.lll     ill'tiT    J!:l\ill^-    loilcd    ai\(l    pl(ul(lt'(l 

!o  ilh'  cxt rciiiif  V  "f  this  disiiuil  cavoni.  liis  pcrscvfraiici'  is 
;iiM|'iv  rt'vviirJcd  \)\  tilt'  si^ht  of  an  ic<'-L;iMtti>.  wliost"  t'aii'v 
lir,iiit\  a[i)i<'ars  .still  iimrc  cli.i  niiiiiL;'  in  contrast  witli  its 
■  di"iinv  vrstilud''.  I'l'oin  tin.'  ei'\stal  lloor  vises  <!'i'ou|i  aftor 
-I'Miijp  iif  IranspaTriit  [allars  taporin;.;'  to  a  point,  while  IVom 
'111'  fool',  hrillianf  icy  |H'ndanls  han^'  down  to  ini'cl  tlicin. 
('(iliniins  and  ai'chi's  of  ice  are  vanu'ed  alon^^  Hi,,  crvstalline 
u:dU.  and  lh''  ii^'ht  of  the  candles  is  I'etlected  hac]<  a 
Iniiidivdrold  IVoni  every  side,  till  the  wliolo  cavern  shines 
with  a-l-aiisldnL!.'  instre.  ]\lr.  llolliuid.  the  latest  \isilor  of 
ijii'  Sni'ts-  nii\  declares  he  never  saw  a  inoi'e  la'iliiant 
-|ii'c1;iide  :  ,iad  the  (ieniian  iiatnralist,  I'reyer,  pron<innees  il 
"111-  of  iln'  most  ni.iuiiiiicent  si^'hls  in  nainri'.  reminding'  liini 
iif  tlie  faiiy  Lirottoes  of  the  Ai'abiaii  !Nig'hts'  ^Fales. 

Fi'oiu  the  nionntains  and  the  \ast  [ilatean  uhicli  occuj'ies 
i!ie  centre  tA'  ti!  island,  tniiueroiis  rivers  (jescend  on  all 
-id''-.,  uhiiji.  fed  in  siihinier  hy  the  meltinn'  L;laciers.  ponr 
iiiiiriiiiMis  (|aa!itities  (»f  turhid  A\ater  into  the  sea.  or  con\(.'i'l 
l.ir'^f  allu\ial  ilats  into  inoi;isses.  Thoiitih  of  a  considerahle 
liivinlih.  tlii'ir  ctinrse  is  fre(itiently  very  short.  [)art  icnla  rly 
iiiotiM' the  sonthern  coast,  wlior*' the  Joknlls  I'roni  whiidi  they 
(lc!'i\e  their  liivtli  are  onlv  separat*.Ml  from  the  sea  hy  a 
irii'icn  foi'i'land.  In  their  ini[»etuous  How,  1  hey  not  stddoni 
Itcai'  Inu'.e   hkudcs  of  stone   alon^  with  them,  and   cnt    olf  all 


iiinminication    hetwi-en    thf    iiihahit ants    o!'    their   <>[•[ 


losile 


lunik 


Till'  chief  rivers  ot'   Iceland  are.  in   the  sonth,  the  l'lii(.rsa 


•  iii'l  til''  1!  \  ita.  wliich  an.'  not   iiifri'K 


in  width  to  llio  Khiii 


M    I  III' 


middle  part  of  its  conrsf  :   in  tlie  north,  the  Skjalfan 


lliot   ami  tiie  ,loknlsa   anil   the   .h'd<uls  i    i    Axarfirdi,  la 


|.,,-,. 


!|iid   streams  al 


)ove  a  linndrid    m: 


and  m  t  la' 


111'  '■ 


lmi;iv. 


i ja'.i'ar(lio. .      As   ma\   he  ^'xpected  in  a  mountaiiioirs 
iiitry.  Col  taiiiin'4'  many  ;^-lucKN.--fed  rivers,   Irel  ind  has  im- 
■I'otis  cascades,   man\    <d'thein  rivallini:   or  snr[ias>iiiM'   ii( 
•   ihe  far-famed  falls  of  Svvitzerlaml. 


;V1!\ 


•f  tit'    most   ci.'lebrated   of  these    j^'ems    of    natni 


e    !  S 


•  ^  in  the  norllicrn    pari  of  lh."  island.  f<.rmed  hy 
and    '.'apid    Sk  jalfaiidalljot,    as    it     '      h-'S    with    a 


i   1 


fiO 


TIIK    I'ol.AK    Woin,!'. 


d(';if('iiiii^'  r(>;i)-  over  imcIns  lifty  fed  IiIljIi  iiilc  tin-  ("iMi'un 
Ix'Inw;  Imt  it  is  t'lir  sur|»:issc(l  in  iiiiiLi'iiiliii'iicc  liv  tli<'  Dclli- 
t'oss,  II  full  <'l'  llu'  J(ikiils;i   i  A\;i  rtinli. 

'Ill  sdiiic  (if  ( (Id  cii  v\  ITs  !•(  i!i\  iilsioHs,'  sa  vs  its  ilismrfi-cr,  Mi'. 
(JoiiM,-  lor  rruiii  its  rciiiKtc  sitiialiou,  deep  in  tlir  iioiiliciii 
wilds  of  Iceland,  it  had  cscajK^l  the  cnrions  eve  of  prcvitnis 
Iravcllers — '  tlic  fvust  td'  roc!<  lias  lit'cn  roiit,  and  a  t'ri<.;'litl'iil 
lissiivc  Coniifd  in  tlic  liasait,  aliout  2(H)  fcL't  dcfp,  with  tlic  sid^.s 
(•(duninarand  itcipfiidicnlar.  The  <4'asli  tcrininatcs  id>ru[(tlv  at 
an  acute  aiiLi'lc,  and  at  1  his  sjiol  the  i^'rcat  ri\  cr  r<i|ls  in.  Tlic 
rcaths  ol' water  s\v('i'j>inLi' <hi\vn  ;  *he  iVeii/v  of  the  conliiH'd 
treaiiis    whei'e    they    meet,    sho<itiii<>'   into    eacdi   other    li 


w 


Olll 


eitliej'si(h'   at  the  apex  of  an  ane'le  ;   the  wild  rehoiiml    when 
tln'v  strike  a  head  of  rock,   iurchiiii:;-  out  halfway  down;  the 
litj'iil  i;ltaiii  of  haltliiio- torrents,  obtained   throui^-h   a  veil  nf 
<'d<lyinn"    \apour  ;    the   (Jeysir-spouts   which   blow    ii[i    aheiit 
seventy  le<'t  from  holes  whence  basaltic  columns  ha\('   fiecii 
shot   by   the    force  of  the   descendiue-  water;   the   bhists  df 
s[)ray  whi(  h  rush  upwards  and  burst    into   tierce  showers  eii 
ilie  brink,  I'eedine-  rills   which  }ilmie'e  over   the   eili;t'   as  sixui 
as  they  are  born  ;    the  white  writ liiiii4' \drte.\  below,  with  imw 
and    then   an   ice-j^'reen   wave  tearing-  ihroii^^h   ihe   foam  tn 
lash   anaiiist   the    walls;   th.e   thun<ler  and   bellowing-  of  tlh' 
water,   wliich    make   the  rode    shnddev    under    fo*_it,    are  nil 
stamped  on  my    m.     '    with   a    vividness  which   i!    will   take 
years  to  efface.      Idie  iVlmanna'ji'ja  is  nothing   t<t  this  chasm. 
and  Sehaifhansen  is  dwarfed  by  Dettifoss.' * 

( )f  (he  many  lakes  or  '  vatn.s"  (if  Iceland,  the  Thingv 
tlu'  My,  tind  the  Ifvitar,  are  the  most  considerable. 


ill;i. 


'Ihe  o«*t'aii  currents  which  wash  the  coasts  of  Icelautl  IVeii 
ip[»osite  directions  have  a  considerable  inllueiu-e  oii  ii- 
diniate.      The  south  and  wtst   coasts,  front Iul;'  the   Atlaiitu'. 


en 


w 


w 


ind    exposed    to    the    (Julf  .Stream,   remain    ice-free  ev 
inter,     and     enjoy     a     comparatively     mild     temperalniv 
Idle   the   cold    I'olar    curreni    llowim.;'   in    a    siuth-wcstcn 


•cll- 


lOlV' 


direction  from  Spitzber^'en  to  -)an  .\[ayeii  and  Iceland, 
veys  alniost    everN    yeai- to  the   easterti   and    northern  si 
•  ►t'the  island  la re'e  masses  of  drift-ice,   whitdi   sometime.^  > 
Mot  disap[«'ar  bei'ore  July  or  <'\en  August,    .\ccoriliiiu'  ''^  1' 


1  llulM 
K'eykj; 

eni'dill 

at    Aki 

llii>    >| 

latifudi 

lU\t  : 

i/iflileiii 

uiiiirr  ( 

liaiid.  i> 

Icrioi'  of 


;iU'l,  't  ■■  Si'iiK^  iiiii 


ISay...^,  1. 


iiu-  iKinii:.;  I .    (■,.1,  1 ; 


'^- 


Till".    WKATIIRK    OF    K'KLWii. 


til 


li- 


'fii 

lUS 


yiit 
III.' 

liCll 

•lieu 

tlh 


lU'l'll 


L'S    "ll 


■',111  111 


I  lUi\ 


111 


til' 


lasiii. 


iinti'' 


I'll 


iior 


Tii'il'stcii'^i'ii.  llir  iiii';iii  iMiiMial  1 1 -Il I [m 'I'a  1 11 1'l '  of  till'  air  al 
i;c\kjavik  is  4-  1"  ,  !i;i(l  llial  "T  the  sea  +  \'2  .  while  ac- 
cMfiliiiL;'  1<'    lli'iTNdii  Sclircli'  tlic   iiicaii   aiiiiiial   ti'i:i|)i'ralui'(' 

,i1      AlsK'NI'i'     <'ll     tilt'     lldl'lh     C'liist     is     Olllv     -1-  ^l^J    ,     fluHlull     l'\fll 


a    cdiiiiiarat  i\('lv    iniM    cliiiiali'    in    so    luLili    a 


1  Ill>     >ll'  i\VS 

latitudi'. 

Dili  if  Icclaiiil,  iliaii]<s  to  its  ins'ilar  j;i'sij  ion  and  to  tin' 
iiiliiiciirf  (if  the  ( iiiir  Stream,  rciiiaiiis  i'lvr  iVniii  tlic  cxei'ssiw 
u  inter  eoM  <'f'  t  lie  A  reti(>  colli  iiiei its.  its  summer,  on  the  other 
li;iii(l.  is  iiiierior  in    waruith  to  that   whirh  rei'_;ais  in  tlie  iii- 


•rio 


r  of  Sihrria,  oi'of'the  IliidsoiTs  l!a\  territorii 


Till'  mean  sumnier  temperature  at  ]le_vl\'javik  is  not  alxivu 
:  ■")  1  ;  diiriiiL;'  maiiv  yeai's  the  thermometer  ne\-er  rises  a 
^iii^le  time  aliove  -f  '^'>  ;  sometimes  even  its  maximum  is 
lint  liiLi'liei'  t han  +■'»'•*;  and  on  the  iiorthei'ii  coast,  snow  not 
^'•Idniii  falls  f\'eii  in  the  miihlle  of  siimuiei'.  ('nder  siicli 
ririiiiii>taiices.  ihe  cultivation  of  tlie  ctTciils  is  of  course 
iiiijinssiMe  ;  and  when  tlie  drift-ice  remains  loii^'er  tlian 
tliern  coasts,  it    [irevents  e\en    the   L;i'owtli 


a^-iial   on   llie   noi 


III  rill 


'jrass.  and  want  and  famine  ai'e  the  eon.secjuen 


ce 


Tlie  I<-elaiidie  summer  is  tdiai'acterisod  hy  constant 
ihaiiues  in  the  wt>ather,  rain  contiirually  alternating'  with 
.^iiiisliiiie,  as  with  us  in  April.  The  air  is  hut  seldom 
ir;iiH|iiil.    and    storms    of   teri'itic   violence    are   of    freipieiit 

ns. 


Ill-Clll 


I'ciice.     Towards  the  end  of  S('[>temhei-   winter  l)e£i;"i 


ii'i'i-i'iji '( 


1  t'V  mists,  wiii(di    (ilia  11 V  descend  in   thicdc  masses  of 


•iHiw.     '{"ravellinn- over  tlietiiduntain 


ti'ack 


is  at  this  t  im< 


;ill;i.  I  |Mi'1i' nlaily  danu'ertius.  alth' ain-ii  caiins  or  piles  of  sti  iiic  serve 
t"  |H.int  out  the  way.  ami  here  and  tln're.  .is  over  the  passes 
"till.  AI[)S,  small  hut>  ha\el)een  erected  Id  Si'l'Ve;is  a  refu^'e 
!''ir  t!ic  t  ra\ellcr. 

In   former  times,    Iceland   could    hoa.>t    of  fM-e>ts.   so   that 

"U-.'s  ;it|il  even  ships  used  1o  lie  hiiilt  of  indiu;'('noiis  1  imhei'  ; 

1   present    it    is   almost    eiitindy    destitute    of  treis,    for   the 

il\v;irf->lii'iilihevies  here  and  there  met  with,  where   the   hircli 

i!'<lly  atlaiiis   the  height    ol'  (wi^nty  feel,   are  not  to  he  din'- 

lii'l   with    the    name    oi'    woods.      A     service    tree    iSorlni.^ 


loll 


rteeii   feel    lii-li.  and    ineasiiriiiL;'   lhr<e    ii.ch 


es 


li.iiiieier    at     the    foot,    is    the    hoast 


ol     I  lie    <j-t  ivcruor  s 


ii'lcii  at    K'e\  kja  \  i!\  ;    it    is.    lio\ve\ei-.  sur|>a>se>l   \>\  ;iiiollier 


fi'i 


'I'liK   I'oi.Ai;   \\(ti;i,ii 


ri  vi'c,    wliirh    .siM'tMHs    ii    III 


lit    A1< 

the    u'l'iiiiiid,     I)iit     iii'Ncr 


•ViiWll     tWclltV     I'l't'K     tVnli 


■^CCS       11^       Clllsll' 


(it     ii.Ti'ii'-^    niii'ii 


ini 


o  sen  I'll' 


Tlh' (l;ini|)  iiml  cool  Ict'liimlic  sniiiiiicr,  t1iMiii.ili  it  jircvciiN 
I  lie  siici-cssriil  cull  iv;il  ioiMif  I'dvii,  is  t;i  \  oiiriil)!('  t<>  t  lie  L;r«»\vlli 
<•(' '4T:iss('s,  so  1  liiii  ill  souif  ol'  the  licttrr  Ihniis  ilif  |iiisiiii'i' 
H'I'oiiikIs  ai'c  liiinllv  inl'cridv  lo  ilic  liiicsl  imcskIows  in  I'vii'^liiiid. 
Al)()ut  one- third  (»t'  t  lie  ,sur(;ir(>  oC  tlu'  ('((Uiit  r_\  is  covci-cd  witli 
vcy'ctnlioii  of  sonic  sort  or  oilier,  lit  fortlu.'  uoiirisliint'iit  i4' 
ciilMi';  Iml,  lis  yet,  ;irl  lins  doih'  little  lor  its  iiii[iro\(Miit'iil 
— |>lou<;'liiiiiH',  sowiiiL;',  driiiiiiiu'c,  ;iiid  levelling'  liciiif^'  t]iiii'_;> 
iindrciiiiit  of.  Willi  the  exception  ol'  IIk^  L^'i'iisscs,  wiiicji  iii't- 
of  |>;iriiiiionnt  iiiiportiincc,  ;ind  llie  trees,  uliicli,  in  s|)ili'  n\' 
their  stniit<'d  proiiortions,  iire  ol'  i;reiil  viihie.  iis  tliey  sii|i|i|\ 
the  isliinders  willi  (lie  (diareoiil  neede<l  for  shoeiiiL';  tlnir 
horses,   lew  of  tlu'  indii^'onons  plants  of  lcclaii<l   are  of  aiiv 

til 


use 


to  man.     The   AuijiJlcd   n I'dm iHjilifn    i 


s   eaten    I'aw   \vi 


hntter;     tlie     inatled     roots    or    stems     of    the     ,1/ 


'  /( //''/( I  III 


lrih>lii(lii  serve  to  pn'otect  the  l»ae!\s  of  \hr  horses  aj^'aiiist 
the  I'lilihin^'  of  th(>  saihlh.' ;  and  the  leelandie  moss,  ■\\liicli 
is  fr<'(|nently  Vxiiled  in  i  .illc.  is  likcAvise  an  article  of  cx- 
povtation.  Tlie  want  of  better  ^'rain  fre([nently  compels  tlh' 
poor  islanders  to  hake  a  Iciiid  of  hread  IVoni  the  seeds  of  tlic 
sand-reed  {l\h/mii^  (imiarn's)^  which  on  ourdnnesare  niei'dv 
picked  by  the  hirds  of  passai^-e  :  and  the  oarweinl  or  tai 
{fjii ni ijiiiriii  ^iirrhd riii(i)  is  pri/ed  as  a  veii'etable  in  a  la 
where  potatoes  and  turnips  are  bnt  rai'ely  cultivated. 

AVheii   the  first  settlers  came  to    Iceland,  they  found 
two    indi!4vnons    l!ind-fpia<irn}>t_'ds :     a    species    of    lield- 


i'''i'' 


ii'i 


iiiii 


[rrlrohi 


ii'i'oiioniii^)   an( 


T  the  Arctic  fov  ;  but  tl 


\e 


le    seas    all' 


shores  \v<'re  no  donl)t  tenanted  l)y  a  larin-r  miniber  of  wli; 
<lolpliins,  and  seals  than  at  the  present  -lay. 

The  ox,   the   she(>]).   and  the  lun'se,  which  accompanied 
Norse  colonists  to  their  new  home,  lorni  the  stajde  weali 


their  descendants  ;  for  the  nuiiiher  of  those  w  ho  live  bv  bri'i'il- 
in;^'  cattle  is  as  three  to  one  compared  with  those  who  cliict!} 
depend  on  the  sea  for  their  sul)sistence.  Milk  and  ^\\\>} 
are  almost  the  only  bevi'ra'.'.'es  of  the  Icelanders.  AVitli'iu 
Initter  the\  will  eat  nolish  ;  and  curdled  mill<,  whi(di  tl 


ie\  c, 


Iresli    III  summer  and    jii-eserve    in    a  sour  state  durinij;- 


Ik 


less 


CIMKl,    M(il»l'.    n|-     <|IKi;i'  ,^ll  i:  \  |;i  M  , 


(V.\ 


iiii 


I'll 


til 


lliv 


■nl 


(>  111 


lu'ii 

nil} 

\vitli 

vhicli 

til.' 


ICVi'lV 


iin 


;lll'l 


1  lllI 


-\l' 


d  til.' 


11 1' 


winti'i'.  i^>  llh'ir  l;i\('iii'iti'    r('|i-i'>l .      'I'Iiik  llicv  sd    tlir  liii^iicsl 

\:l|i|,'  nil  tllrll'  (■;it||c.  ;iih1  ti'iid  lllclll  willl  f!l<'  i_;Ti  M 1 1 '■-t  fill'i'. 
I  n  t  111-  ]i|i'.S('l'\  111  ii'iM  il'  t  licil'  ^1||'(■|.  tlii'\  lire  niiicli  li;||ii|M'rc(l 
li\  I  In-  liildlicss  u('-t  he  (•liliiiilc.  1)\  tllf  sen  111  ill('>s  i^['  wiliti'V 
[und.  ;lll(l    li_V   till'    lltlllcliS    {>{'    tlir   <';lL;'lt'S,    tin'    IM  \  ell-,  11  lid    lilt' 

tii.\rs.  more  [>iivliciil;irly  iit  Hie  l;iiiiI»iiiL4'  season,  wlicii  vasl 
iiiiiiiImTs  of  1  lie  V(piiii'_j'  aiiiiiiiils  an'  .■arrii'd  dl]'  liy  all  (if  tin 'in. 
Til-'  wiinl  is  uol  slicarrd  oil'.  Init  Idi'ii  iVnui  tlic  aiiiiiial's  l)ark-. 
Ill  id  wovi'ii  ])y  1  he  pcasa  iili'y,  dui'iiiu'  t  Ih'  Imiui'  wiiilci'  <'\fiiiiiL;s, 
iiiloa  K'iiid  (»("  foarsi"  (dolli.  or  |<iiii  into  ^'lovcs  and  stnck'in'_;'s, 
wliii'li  I'dnii  one  (d'llic  (diifl' avlicdcs  *>\'  >  ,^|»(>i't. 

•Wdiilcal  liiTakl'asl,'' says  ]\Ir.  She|))t.i'd.  '  we  wit  nrsscd  Hie 
|.  r|;iiidi<-  nil  llind  (if  slioep-slicariiiL;'.  'riiivc  or  four  ]>o\vor- 
fii!  yoiiii',;-  woiiicii  soi/(>d,  and  easily  throw  ipii  llu'ir  Kadcs,  the 
viii|u-n|ii|M'  viclinis.  Tlie  li'^'s  were  then  tied,  and  llie  woid 
|iillli'i|  oil'  hy  main  force.  It  seemed,  fi'oill  llie  eoiit  oi't  ions 
ef  ^ollie  o|' t  lie  wrelclied  a  nimals.  to  he  ;i  rniel  met  III 'd  ;  hill 
we  were  lold  that  there  is  a  [leriod  in  the  year  when  the 
\(>uii'_;'  wool,  heo-iiinilln'  to  ^row,  pushes  IJie  old  ollt  hefofe  if. 
Ml  tli.il  the  old  coat  is  easily  pulled  out.'"-  The  iiuinher  of 
heaiN  of  caltle  ill  the  i-laud  is  ahoilt    Kl.OO!^  <liat  of  llie  sheep 

.',IHI.(IIM). 

Tile  horses,  whicdi  niimher  from  -ji^Odd  to  (»o.()(i(i,  thou^li 
small,  are  wry  robust  tnul  hardy.  There  hein^'  n,,  wheel 
(.•arriiin-es  cm  tlu^  island,  Ihey  are  merely  used  for  ridiuf^-  and 
lis  hea^^ts  (if  luirden.  Their  servieos  are  iudispeusahle,  as 
t  them  tlie  Icelanders  would  not  have  the  means  of 
1U4'  and  earrvhi<4'  theii-  produce  to  the  fishiiiL;'  vilhm'(>s 


It  iiiiii 


a'.i'lli 


IT  ports  at  wliicli  the  annual  sujijilii's  arrive  IVoiii  ('(•pen- 
lui-vn.  Fu  winter  tlie  poor  aniuiuls  must  lind  their  own  food, 
lave  cousequeiitly  mere  skehitous  i;>   sprini^-:  they,  1 


:lll 


I   ■.  •■!  .   SI 


l(»W- 


tll< 


)oii  recover  in  summer,  though  e\-eu  then  they  have 
ii'itiruiL;'  whatever  hut  tin'  L;'rass  and  small  jdants  which  the}' 
'in  ]iirk  ii[>  on  lite  hills. 

'flii'  (loLi's  are  vt.'rv  similar  to  those  of  La[iland  and  (Jreen- 
iii.il.      Like    tlieiii    1  he \    have    loiiL;'   hair,  forming'  a   l<iiid   of 
'•'•ilar  reiiinl  the  needs,  a    [>oiiiled    nose,  poiiiti'il   ears,  and   an 
'■leva t I'll  cm  led  tail,  with  a  liMiiper  whii  li  may  he  idiaracteri>ed 
as  ivstless  and  irritahle.     Their  u'eiuM'al  colour  is  white. 


Til.' N.irili-W,-.ir,'ii  !',  niii<iil,i  ut' li'i'laii.l.  l.S'i 


fi4 


TMi:  rm.Mi   uiMJi.i*. 


Ill  llic  vciir  1770.  tliirt"rii  rriiidcri'  wci'c  I»i'(iii<4li1  t'lnm 
N*»r\\ii  V.  'I'l'ii  <>r  t  In '111  ilii'il  I  hiring'  t  In-  |i;i-s;i '.:•'■•  '"il  •  li"'  t  liiri' 
IIkiI  siii'\i  vi'il  li;i\<'  Miiill  iitlird  so  tiisl  lli;il  \;\V'_:;r  herds  iinw 
riiiiiii  oyer  111!'  iiiiiiiliiiMlcd  \v;islt's.  Diiriiie'  tlic  wilder.  wIhh 
Imiigcr  drives  llieiii  into  ilie  lower  distrids,  llicy  :nv  I'lv. 
<|U('ii11y  shot  ;  liut  no  at  ten i] its  hiivc  been  math'  f o  laiiie  Ihriii. 
lor  tlioiudi  iiidisi-'ciisaMc  to  tiic  ]ja|iiaiidei'.  thoy  a  I'e  (piitr 
supei'lliious  in  Icchiiid,  whii di  is  too  i-ue-.'^ed  and  too  mncli 
iiitei'siM'lt'd  l)_v  streams  to  admit  (d' s]cdL>'inj4'.  They  are.  iii 
ra(d,  g'onc'i'iilly  coiisiilei'cd  as  a  iiuisaiicc.  as  they  eat  away  Ww 
Ictdaiidic  iiios^^  wliitdi  the  ishinders  woiiM  williiiedy  ]<eej^)  Inr 
tlieir  own  use. 

The  I'ohir  hear  is  liut  a  casual  \isitor  in  letdaiid.  Ahniit 
a  dozen  conic  dril'tine'  every  year  with  the  ice  [Vtnii  .liiii 
Miiycii,  or  »S[)it/berL;'eii,  to  llic  iiorthei'ii  shores.  IJa\eiieiis 
witli  liiiii'_;er.  t  hey  immediatidy  atta(d<  the  lii'st  licr<]s  tluy 
mcH't  with;  but  their  i'avaL;'<'s  do  n<d  last  !ou<j'.  lor  tlii' 
n('i<4"hl)ourhood,  arising;  in  arms,  soon  puts  an  end  to  tlicjr 
existence. 

Til  letdand  tlie  oi'iiit  holoeist  lliuls  a  ri(di  Tudd  for  lii^ 
linourite  study,  as  lliere  are  no  less  than  ('iu'lity-t  wo  dillerciit 
species  of  iudi^'eiious  birds.  besi<les  tweuty-oue  that  are  only 
casual  visitors,  and  six  that  liave  liecii  introduced  by  man. 

The  swampy  <^Touiids  in  the  iiiteri(!i'  of  the  country  ai'i' 
peopled  with  lei^'ions  of  g'ohleii  and  Kiiii^  [)lovers,  of  sni[ii'> 
and  red-shanks;  the  lakes  abound  with  swans,  (hudcs,  ami 
•^■eest'  of  various  kinds;  tlie  snow-bunting'  enlivens  llif 
solitude  (d*  the  roidcy  wilderness  willi  his  li\(d\  note,  iUul. 
wdiere\er  grass  grows,  tlie  common  l>i[»it  [Aul/i'is  ynv^/f //.svV 
builds  its  neat  little  nest,  well  lined  with  horse-hair.  Lib'  |P 
the  lark,  lie  rises  singing  from  the  ground,  and  fre(pieiitl;i 
surprises   Wu'   traveller  with  his   melodious  warlding,   wliid:  | 


M"ck  of  d 
k-alLs  Jier  ; 
h"n  lea  the] 
'<-ni.'l  rel.he 

<!'"'jUcJltlv 


hr\r 


10  r( 


sol 


uids  doubly  sweet  in  tlie  lifeless  waste. 

The  eider-du(d<  holds  the  tirst  rank  amonu'  the  useful  bi 


ni> 


iii'lnt-e  lif.,. 

>f  Iceland.      Its  (diitd'  breeding-pltiees  are  small   flat  islands  ■|B>;iri,irdardi 
on  various  parts  cd' the  coast,  where  it  is  sab'  from  the  attarl-  |^      il.^'  nei'j] 
of  the  Arctic  fox,  .suidi  as  Akurey.  I'datey,  and  \'idey,  wliiil 
from    its    vicinity    to    I'eykjavik.    is    frequently    visited    I' 
tra\ellers.      All    these   l)n'ediiig-[daces    are    private  pro|ici'f'. 
and  several  1ia\e  bi-en  for  centuries  in    Die   possessi(iii   <•!  ll^ 


■   noi'iii  (, 

^\^  Vc-WerU   s 

|'''i^''to!l' 1,0 


|}|{i;i:i>iM.  <»i'  (;ii)i:i;-iir(  K,^ 


C5 


Dili 


IITr 


IliiW 


lien 


ItV- 


irlii. 


iiuii 


r.  Ill 
I.  r.v 


IhiIU 


all 


iMli'll^ 


11 


li'V 


till  ■if 


111'     II! 


i  only 
•V   aiv 


i<.  :iu<l 
th.- 


/,  ii-<i'' 


lli'llliv 


Wlurl 


11  In;-. 


SKll 

'■" 

tt,M 

!■> 

vlii 

m1 

,1  ,.  '1 

1,. 
•t\. 

>;iiiii'  ruiiiilics.  wliii'h,  (li;iiiKs  In  flic  liirds;,  ni'r  iiliioiiM-  tlic 
wciltliii'st  nl'tli''  liiihl.  It  iiiiiv  ciisilv  1m'  iiii;iL;iii''<l  tliiil  tin' 
liili'i-ijiicks  iiii'  Li'iiiinlfil  witli  tliciiidsl  s('(lii|(Mis  cure.  Who- 
.•vi'i'  Idll^  one  is  (ilili^'cd  to  jMv  a  Him'  of  tliii'f y  (jollnrs  ;  ami 
I  he  -.rd'ct  ill:;' of  an  c'li'l;',  orllir  ]iockct  iiii;' of  a  I'l'W  ijow  ns.  is 
|iiiiii-lir(l  w  it li  all  till'  riii'oiii' of  llic  law.  'I'lic  cliid'  occiipa- 
lioii  of  ^If.  Str|tli('Msoti,  the  a'.;'('(l  jiroprii'toi'  of  N'idt-y.  who 
a lo I II'  oil  t  he  islet .  is  to  I'xaiiiiiH'  t  hroiiL^h  his  Icli'scopt' 
nil  ilh'  lioals  thai  a  ]i|>roa(li.  so  as  lo  hcsiiiT  that  tlicri'  arc  no 
<j-iiiis  mi  lioard.  DnriiiL;'  the  hrccdin^'  season  no  one  is  allowed 
|c  lanij  w  it  ho! it  his  special  |»eniit--sioii.  and  all  noise,  shoiit  ini;', 
nr  Joihl  >| leaking'  i.s  sti'iet  l_v  proliihited.      I5nt.  in  s|iitc  (»!' these 


(|\\. 


|ii'cc.iiitious,    wo    a 


re    iii(oi'iiie(|     li\-    recent    travellers    th 


liittcrly  the  e'reatci"  part  ol'  the  dinks  of  V'idcy  JiaNc  liccii 
tempted  to  leave  their  old  (|n;ii'ters  for  the  iicieldiouriii^' 
KiiLiey,  wh(.ise  proprieloi'  hit  upon  the  plan  of  layiiiLi'  hay 
upuii  the  strand  so  as  to  all'ord  them  li'i'cater  facilities  for 
licst-huildiiiL;'.  The  cidci'-down  is  easily  collected,  as  the  hirds 
lU'e  (jiiite  tame.  The  jcinale  ha\inL;'  laid  hve  or  six  [lale 
ii'ri'i  iii>li-oli\t'  eee's.  in  a  nest  tiiiid\lv  lin<'(l  with  her  lieaiitifnl 

■relil     ^H  *'"^^'"'  ''"■  *'""''''^"''^''  "'''■''    ♦■ili'i'llllly    l'emo\iiiL:'    the    hil'd,    Idl) 
the  nest  nf  its  contents,  after  which   they  rep1a<-e  her.      >She 
then  hi'L'iiis  to  lay  afresh,  tlion^'li  this  time  only  three  or  fonr 
t'L;'t.',s.  and  aL;'ain  lias  reconi'si'  to  the  down  on  her  hody.      iJnt 
^'"1"''   ■Hill']' urcedy  per.^eentors  onee  moi'e  riile  her  nest,  and  oMi^-e 


iher  1 


o     line 


it    for   Ihc  third  time.      X 


ow.  iKtwever,  Her  o\vn 


^tei'k  of  down   is  exliaiisted,  and    with   a    plaint  ive  voice  sin 
ui'l-  ^^|i"il'>   h''r   mate   to   lier  assistance,  who  willingly  [:Incks  tin 


pmf  fi/atliers  from  liis  hreast  to  snpjtly  the  del 


icien<-\- 


Ijilcc  Bl|l|(.'rucl  rehlici-y  he  a^ain  re[>eated,  which  in  former  tim 


f  t 


es  was 


ii'iliieiitly  the  case,  the  poor  eider-dindc  ahandons  tlie>p(.t, 
ii'Vr]'  to  return,  and  seeks  for  a  new  honn'  wliere  she  may 
iii'liiiu'e  her  nr.iternal  instinei  nmlisturbed. 

Mr.  Sliepherd  thus  descril»es  his  visit  to  Vier  in  the 
kati;ii'dardjn[»,  tnu'  id' the  head-(|iiarters  (d'tlie  eidei'-diick  in 
■|!i<' Mortli  of  Iceland: — "■As  the  island  was  ajipro.udieil.  we 


u  -.ee  am 


t 


ks  n]»on  flocks  of  the  sacred  Inrds,  and  eoiddhear 
'  u'  coiiiiiu's  at  a  gri'at  distance.  Wo  laiidi'd  on  a  rocky 
A\;ivi'-W(irii  slnire,  ti'^aiiist  which  the  waiei's  scarcely  rippled, 
J  I'i  >i't  nIV  {.<>  investi^'ate  t  he  i^laml.      'J'lie  >jiofe  was  the  most 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y    14580 

(716)  872-4S03 


W^ 


&? 


fe 


o^ 


f)G 


TIIH    VOLMi   WOULD. 


woiidcrfiil  oniitliolojjrical  ni^hi  coneelvublc.  The  <luc'l\s  jiiid 
their  iicsls  wen'  everywlicre  in  a  iDiiiinor  that  was  (|uiti' 
ahinnin;;-.  (Jivat  brown  dneks  sat  upon  their  nests  in 
masses,  an<l  at  every  stop  started  up  from  (Uider  our  feet.  It 
was  witli  <lit!i('nltv  that  we  avoided  treadinj'  on  some  of  tin- 
nests.  The  island  bein;,'  but  three-quarters  <»f  a  mile  in 
width,  the  oppctsite  sliore  was  soon  reached.  On  the  coast 
was  a  wall  built  of  larj>e  stones,  just  above  the  hi^h-watii- 
level,  about  three  fi'et  in  hei;;ht  and  of  considerable  thitlv- 
ness.  At  the  bottom,  on  both  sides  of  it,  alternate  stoius 
had  been  left  out,  so  as  to  form  a  series  of  square  compart- 
ments for  the  ducks  to  make  their  nests  in.  Almost  evt  r\ 
compartment  was  occupied;  and,  as  we  walked  alou}^"  tlif 
shores  a  lonj,^  line  of  ducks  tlew  <mt  one  after  another.  Tlio 
surface  of  the  water  also  was  perfectly  white  with  drakes,  wlm 
welcomed  their  brown  wives  with  loud  and  clamorous  cooing. 
WluMJ  we  arrived  at  the  farmhouse  we  Avere  cordially  wel- 
comed by  its  mistress.  The  house  itself  was  a  ^reat  marvrl. 
The  eartheii  wall  that  surrounded  it  and  the  window  em- 
brasures were  occupied  by  ducks.  On  the  ;^ri»iuid,  the  housi' 
was  frinj^ed  with  ducks.  On  the  turf-slopes  of  the  roof  \\v 
could  see  ducks  ;  and  a  duck  sat  in  the  scraper. 

'  A  orassy  bank  close  by  had  been  cut  into  square  ])atelirs 
like  a  chess-board  (a  square  of  tin-f  of  about  ei^'hteen  incite 
bein<^  removetl,  and  a  1k>1I«»w  made),  and  all  wen»  tilled  with 
ducks.     A  windmill  was  infested,  and  so  were  all  the  nut- 
lumses,  mounds,  rocks,  and  crevices.     The  ducks  were  even- 
where.     Many  of  them  were   so  tame  that  we  could  stmki' 
them  (»n  their  nests ;  an<l  the  jjfood  lady  told  us  that  tlur 
was  scarcely  a  duck  on  the  island  which  would  not  allow  li' : 
to   take  its    e^-n^s  without    lllnht    or    f«'ar.     "When    she   lii'v 
l>ecanie  possessor  of  the  island,  the  produce  of  down  fntni  tli 
ducks  was  not  mor<>  than  litteen  pounds  wei<>-ht  in  the  vi'ur. 
but  under  her  careful  nurture  of  twenty  years  it  had  risen  t ' 
nearly  one  hundred  pounds  annually.      It  requires  alxtut  eii' 
pound  and  a  half  to  make  a  coverlet  for  a  single  ))ed,  and  tin 
down  is  worth  from  twelve  to  fifteen  shillin^i's  per  poutid.   Me< 
of  the  e^^s  are  taken  and  ]»ickled  for  winter  consumptieii. 
one  or  two  only  bein^  left  to  hatch.' 

Thou;.>h   not  so  important  as  the  eid<'r,  the  other  m<Mnltti« 


"f  fli«'  ( 
til.'  laK- 

lile.My\ 
(lie  ( 'Mu-. 
tlie  cdii 
>eaup-di 

;ni(!  |,re.« 

I'.leKed  i 
The     . 

leatlicrs, 

liiiiifsiiiai 

I'lMeivisIl 

li.ers.  wl 
ill  l.ii-yc  t 
'•losely  til 
"i  Mind.  1' 
u  il  li  s.  iff 
•Mi;!-!:  ||;i^ 
"Willi,  1111,1 
\"!(e    i,r   t 

"!'   wllduj,   : 

'■>y.     Ir  li 

''•el;|||,l_    ^y 
'ii;l(    reiM^ii. 

riie  rav( 

'  li''ir  ViiiiiH 

■'■  riv.I;iti..| 
I '■■!'■>  (,,   u) 

""  'Ih'  living 
'■  '''l'  r  i-;  iir 

■     l:l\el|.        'J 

•   '  I'  ''Iiiii(ii( 
'   '■  iiii,I<]|,. 
^'  111   l,ru\v,| 

1     ••ell.l   ,,(■   J 

>    "1  >i/,e.  ai 

[        In    ilie   ^In 


I!IKI>S    Ol'    ICKI.ANh. 


b7 


.i|"  till'  tlM<l<  fiiiiiilv  wliK'li  (Inriii",'  tlic  siiininor  soasoii  ciiUvt'ii 
til''  liikt's  iiihI  swiiiiiiis  of  [('('l:iu<l  iirc  very  siM'vict'nbh'.  On 
til"'  Mvviitii.  or  (Jiiiit  L;ikt'.  one  of'ilu'ir  chief  i»l:i!'<'s  of  rosort, 
Ihc  t'M^s  of  lilt'  loii;jf-<;iilt'(l  dtU'lc,  tlic  wild  dlK'k,  tlif  scoter, 
till'  coimiion  ^'oosiiiKlcr.  tlic  rt'd-l>rciisttMl  iiicr^;iuser,  the 
xiiiili-fliick,  Ac.,  jiiid  oilier  iuiseriiies  are  ciirefully  ^'alhered 
and  |ii"eserved  in  «'norinous  ((uantiiies  for  tlie  winter,  closely 
pacKed  in  a  line  ;_;Te_v  volcanic  sand. 

The    wild    swan    is    fn'(|ueiitly   shot     or    can^hl     for    his 

feathers,    whi(di    lirin;^'   in   nnmy   a   dollar    i(»   the    lortnnate 

liiinisinan.     This    nol»h«    hii-d    frecjnents  botli    the    salt    and 

l>iMil\ish  waters  alony-  the  coast,  and  the  iidand   lakes  and 

li.i  rs,  where  it  is  seen  either  in  single  j»airs  or  con;^'re;^ated 

ill  lar;^-e  Hocks.     To  hnild  its  nest,  which  is  sai<l  to  resend)le 

closely  that  of  the  llaniini^tt,  heinii*  ii  hn'-jfe  nn>nnd,  composed 

ofnind.  iMishes.  j^-rass,  and  stones,  with  a  cavity  at  top  lined 

uiili  soft  down,  it  retires  to  some  solitary  nninhahited  spot. 

.Mi;ili  Ii;i<  heen   said  in  ancient  times  of  the  siii^in;;' of  the 

-wan,  antl  the  heanty  of  its  dyin;^'  notes;   Imt,  in  truth,  the 

\iii(e  of  the   swan   is   very   lond,  shrill,  and  harsh,  thoni^li 

win  11  liii^h  in  the  air,  and  niodnlated   hy  the  winds,  the  note 

di'  whoop  of  an  asseinl.lan'e  of  them  is  not  nnpleasant  to  th(^ 

riir.     It   has  a  i*ecnliar  (diarm  in  the  nnfrecpuMited  wastes  of 

Ictlaiid.  wliei'i'  it    a;_;i'<'eaMy  interrnjds  the  profotnid  silence 

tluit  reiu'iis  ai'onnd. 

The  raven,  one  of  tln^  comnumost  land-l»irds  in   Ie(dand.  is 

III!  iil.ji'ct  of  aversioi!  to  the  islanders,  as  it  not  oidv  sei/es  on 

t  li'ir  youn;^'  lamlts  and  eider-dncks,  hnt  also  coinmits  n-reat 

<!'  pi'i  diitiotis  amon^"  the  lishes  laitl  out  to  dry  npon  the  shoi-e. 

1 'nil's  to  which  dead  ravt'ns  a I'e  attached,  to  serve  as  a  warning" 

tn  till'  liviii'j.  are  fre( jnently  seen  in  the  meadows  ;  and  the  Icc- 

iiiM'li  r  i-<  never  so  ha])py  as  when  he  has  sneceeded  in  shooting'; 

!i  i:i\')i.     'i'liis.  however,  is  no  easy  tasK-.  as  no  Itird   is  more 

cautidMs.  and  its  eyes  are  as  sharp  as  those  of  the  ea<^le.     <  >f 

iill  1«  ilaiidic  Itirds,  the  raven  breeds  the  earliest,  layinii"  ahont 

[till'  iiiiil(]le  of  March  its   live  or  six  ]>ale-M'reen  en-o-s  s[>otted 

hvitli  tiiipvii   in  the  inaccessible  crevices  of  roidvs.     'l'owar<ls 

lllii' ml  of  June,  l^rever  saw  manv  \oiiiii''  ravens  ii-rown   to  a 

1^1  i"l  >']/.''.  and  but  iittle  inferior  to  the  old  ones  in  cnnnin-^'. 

Ill  ihc  i^dtxtiny  Scandinavian  mythology  the  raven  occupies 

r2 


I  i 


! 


cvoniii^'  iM'n-Iu'd  iijioii  Odin's  slidiiMfrs  («•  whisper  Hit.'  in'ws 
in  his  oar:  tht'iianie  (>f(»ne  was ///'<//'//,  or  spirit:  ol' iht'otlnr. 
Miiiiiiii.  or  nn'Uiory.  Mvcii  now  many  siqicrstititms  nutinns 
roniaiu  iittachocl  to  tlic  raven  ;  lor  the  lc"hni»lers  l»elieve  this 
bird  tit  l)e  not  oidy  aciinainled  with  wiiat  is  ;^'oin;4'  on  a1  ;i 
distance,  hut  also  with  what  is  t^)  ha])j»en  in  future,  an<l  ;iiv 
convinced  that  it  ioretells  wht'n  any  of  a  family  is  ahout  in 
die,  by  pcrchin;^'  on  the  roof  of  the  house,  (»r  wheelin;^'  toiiikI 
ill  the  air  with  a  oitntinual  cry,  varyiiij^'  its  voice  in  a  singular 
and  inclotlious  manner. 

'J'he  white-tailed  sea-ea;^;le  is  not  uuconimon  in  Icelnm!. 
wlieic  he  stands  in  <'vil  repute  as  a  kidnaitpci-  of  lambs  aii'l 
I'ider-tbuk's.  lie  is  sometimes  found  dead  in  the  nets  of  tlir 
(ishcrinen  ;  for.  [louncin^*  npon  a  Innhloek  or  salmon,  he  p't.- 
entaiiu'lcil  in  the  nu  shcs,  and  is  unable  to  extricate  himsi'lf. 
'JMie  skins  of  the  bird,  which  seems  to  attain  a  lar^^'ei"  si/r 
than  in  (Ireat  Jhitaiu,  m<»st  liki'ly  from  beiu;^'  less  distmUiJ 
by  man.ai'esold  at  Jieyk  javik  and  Akureyro  fur  from  three  to 
six  rixdollai's. 

The  Jerfalcoii  (I'uli-n  ,ii/r/<ilri>),  <^'eiicrally  consi(h'red  as  ih- 
bohb'st  and  most  beautiful  of  the  l;iK-on  trihe,  has  its  lic;M- 
(juartei's  in  Iceland.  As  Ioul;' as  the  uoble  sport  of  falcoiin 
was  in  fashion,  forwlTudi  it  was  highly  esteemc(b  theli;i'l' 
in  faU'ous  was  worth  from  2(H)(>  to  :|(»ii()  rixdolI;;vs  anunal!; 
tt»  the  islanders,  and  even  now  lii'^h  prices  are  i>aid  for  it  1a 
Mu^lish  amateurs. 

The  rai'est  bird  of  Ici'land.  if  not  entireh    c\tinct,  i>  tli 


H.ll 


•^•iant-auk',  or  (birfui;l.  The  last  jiair  was  cauiiht  al 
seventeen  years  a^'o  near  the  ( leirfu!.;laskers,  a  ^riMin  '■ 
sollt  iry  rocks  t  >  the  south  of  the  \Vestinaii  Isles,  its  ciil; 
]<nown  habitat  besides  some  similar  (ditfs  on  the  north-ea>lin. 
coast.  Since  that  time  it  is  said  to  ha\('  been  seen  by  >Miir 
lishermen  :  but  this  testimony  is  exii'cmely  doubtful,  and  tin' 
([Ue^liou  of  its  existence  can  only  l>e  sohdl  by  a  visit  te  tli' 
( Jeirfu'_;"lasker.>   themselves —an  nuileitakiiiL;'  whiih.  if  i'lM- 


ti.;d.|e 
a-  (li.'s, 
'  ahii  w 
'li'clivit 
•ippi'oac 
III  Is. 

llic  iiHe 
I  lie  nejo 

li'T  sdiri 

>e\.M'a|   J 

'liaii    Msi 

\\i'l'<'  e(j|| 
.III  h-e|;i 
Thr    M-jji, 

ilH'lies  ai 
"l>!i(jii,.|v 

intTe  sfui 
|"'iiiids  h; 
"I  ;iii\  (itl 

'111'     /iMll,,. 

■  'ilia  ;m  i> 
The  wat 
"lily  Mippl 
l'iiriii>||  til, 

I'll!     al.vn  II 

■•'<"»  Frenc 

'■'''•\VS     illii, 

''|'i"'''""aiic( 

|Mltir|||,,,-|. 

'•"iiiitry:    t| 
'ii'tid.  I. Ill 
ii'iuvrn  til 

''"■    IH'|-t||..l- 

''"■>  run   to 
iimiv. 

Til.'    ire];, 

'"'b  ill  .liiii, 
'"''iii'l.  uji.. 
'li^Iiirts  ,,f| 

"'■''"•scils. 


TIIK    (ilANT-Al'K. 


ro 


m 


til  ;il»|t'  ;i(  nil.  is  ;i1t»'inlt'<l  witli  rxtrciiu.'  (lifliriillv  iunl  (liiii'^'cr. 

;i>  tllisi'  l-ncKs  ilVf  «'<>lll|»l»'tflv  isiililtrd   ill  lilt'  s»';i.  Avllicll  CVfll  ill 

liiliii  wciitlicr  Iirt'iiks  uitii  siirli  violt'iicc  u'^aiiisl  1  licir  ulu'Upf 
■  l''ili\  it  it's  tiiiit  tor  vfid's  it  iiiust  itt-  ;iI)S(»lMlt'|y  iiiiiM>ssil>li' ti> 
;iji|iri>iK'li  thciii. 

Ill  JSoS  t\vi»  Kii^'lisli  iiiitMriilistsdt'tcriiiiiH'tl  :\\  K'iist  t<>  iiiiikt^ 
tlif  ;itt('iii|tt.  iiiid  sfttlt'fl  I'll-  tilt'  st'sistdi  in  ii  siiiiill  liiUiilct  »»li 
till' ijciLflilKuiriii^'  ctiiist,  ciiLft  r  to  M'i/c  tlif  liist  oj»j»t>rlniiity 
t"r  sitinniiii''  llic  ( ifirfiii-Ts  strtiiiLilioltl.  'i'lu-v  \v;iitt'<l  tor 
>i\<  rill  iiioiillis.  l»iil  ill  viiiii.  tilt'  stormy  siiiiiiiu'r  itfiiii;'  iiion' 
iliiiii  nsiiiillv  uiiliivoiiniUlt'  for  tlifir  imtlfrtiiKiiiu- :  iiikI  thcv 
wiif  f(jually  unsueeossful  in  tlie  north,  wliitlicr  tlicy  Iunl  scut 
all  Ir.'laiitlio  stiitK'ut  siM't-iiilly  instructed  tor  the  i»uritos«'. 
Tli«'  uiiiiit-iiuk  is  three  feet  hi^h,  imd  has  a  hlaek  hill  toiu- 
iiirln's  and  a  ((uarter  lonj^-,  hctth  inandihles  heiii^'  crosHed 
(il'li(|ni'ly  with  several  ritl|4;es  ai.d  furrows.  Its  wiii;^"s  are 
iiiiie  stmiijts,  like  those  of  tht^  Antaretie  i»eiiu;uiiis.  Thirty 
|Miiiii(ls  have  lt«'en  paid  for  its  e^'^',  which  is  larfjer  tliaii  that 
n|  ;iii\  other  FiUrojM'an  hird  ;  and  there  is  no  kii(»win!4"  the  jn'ict^ 
ilii'  /onloo'ical  Stx'iety  avouIiI  |iay  tor  a  live  hird,  if  this  truly 

•  iiii;i  avis  '  ctaild  still  he  touiiil. 

'riif  waters  of  icelainl  aht)uud  wit  h  excelli'iit  lish  which  not 
I'lily  siipitly  the  islanders  Avith  a  ^'reat  ['art  tif  their  fot»d  iiiiil 
l'iiriii>li  tlicni  with  one  t»f  their  chief  artitlcs  of  ex[>ttrtatii.>n, 
liiit   ;il>o  attract  a   nunihcr  of  foreiti'ii  scainen.     'rims  ahtiiit 

•  I'l"  rrriich.  hutch,  anil  Bel^'ian  lishing  sloops,  nianiied  with 
ricws  iiiiiount iiii;"  in  all  t(»  7<MMJ  jiieii.  annually  make  their 
;i|i|H';irance  (»n  tlic^  southei'n  ant]  westfi'ii  coasts  tif  Iceland, 
I'lii'ticiilarly  those  of  the  ( JulilhriiiLi'e  Sv>.>.'l.t>r  -^oM-lirin^in^- 


cull 


iitrv:  thus  naiiictl.  not  from  anv  cvitltiK 


■t;d.  hut  from  til 


>ld. 


il-harvests  ri 


.1 


t  he  precious 
III!  till,  iiiit  trom  tlie  ui"<>l<teu  ct>ii-narvesis  reap"ii  on  its  shores. 
Ili'luriii  thirty  and  forty  English  tisliiii'_;--smatks  Nearly  visit 
til  ■  imitliern  coast.  \Vhen  they  have  ol'tained  a  <_i-iMid  cnr^'o 
'Ihv  mil  tt>  Shetland  t(.>  discharL^'c  it,  aiitl  retiii-n  au'ain  for 
iiinr,.. 

Til.'  Icelandic  fishintr-season,  wliicli  heninsin  Fehrnarv  ami 

'  !iiU  ill  . I  line,  occupies  one-half  of  the  male  inhahitants  of  the 

"laiiil.  who  come  flockiiin'to  the  west,  even  from  the  rennttest 

'iMilrts  of  the  north  ami  east,  io  partake  of  the  rich  harvest 

t  tile  sciis,      Manv  thus  travel   for  more  than  "J'mi  miles,   in 


70 


TIIK    I'()I,.\1I    WOULD. 


tli<'  ini<lst  of  winter,  wliilf  the  slunii  liowls  ovi-r  the  iiiik.-.l 
waste,  iiiu\  tlie  [>ule  smi  searcely  dispels  lor  a  lew  Imiirs  llic 
darkness  »•('  the  nii^'ht.  In  everv  lint  wiiei-e  tliey  tarrv  un 
tliei-(»ail  they  are  weletMne,  and  havehnt  rarely  to  j»ay  t'ortlnii' 
entertainment,  for  hospitality  is  still  reel«»ned  a  duty  in  In- 
hiiid.  On  reachin^x  <'"'  tishin^^-statiou  an  agreement  is  sumi 
made  with  the  [H'oprietor  ()f  a  hoat.  'i'hey  usually  eni^a^i'  to 
assist  in  (ishiuLf  l'r(»Mi  Fehruai'v  \1  to  M;\\  12,  and  receive  in 
return  a  share  of  the  fish  which  they  lu'lp  to  catch.  I)esi.li> 
forty  pounds  of  tlour  and  a  daily  allowance  of  sour  cuids 
or  '  skier.' 

All  tlie  men  l»elon<j^in^'  to  a  hoat  n'l'uei'ally  live  in  the  saiin' 
ihimp  and  narrow  hut.  At  davhreak  thev  launch  forth  to 
hrave  for  many  hours  the  inclemencies  of  the  weather  and  llif 
sea,  and  while  en;4-ai>'ed  in  their  hard  day's  work  their  sn|,' 
refreshment  is  the  (diewin;^'  of  tobaeeo  or  a,  mouthful  of  skier. 
( )n  returniu'.;'  to  their  c<»mfortless  hut,  their  sui)[»er  consists 
of  tht!  Hshes  of  iuferi(»r  (piality  they  may  have  cauyht,  oinf 
the  heads  o!'  the  cod  or  lin^",  which  are  too  valuahle  tnr 
their  own  consumption.  These  are  split  open  and  hunj^-  ujhui 
lines  or  ex[Mised  on   tlie  shore  to  the  cold  winds  and  the  lidt 

sun;  this  renders  them  perfectly  hard,  and  they  kee[)  >j: I 

for  years.  In  this  dried  state  the  cod  is  called  stocklisli, 
About  the  middle  of  Mav  the  minratorv  tislu'rmen  return  to 
their  homes,  leavin<4"  their  fish  which  are  not  yet  quite  drv  t 


ih»'  care  <»f  the  lishermen  dwellin<f  »»n  tl 


le  s 


pot, 


Lowar( 
i"ee<>vered 


Is  th. 
middle  of  June,  when  the  hoi-ses  have  so  far  ree">vered  tVniii 
their  loni,'  winter's  fast  as  to  be  able  to  bear  a  li»ad,  they  cmiie 
back  to  fetch  tlu'ii  stocklish,  wliich  they  c(»iivey  either  to  tlnir 
own  h(»mes  for  the  c(»nsumption  (»f  their  own  families,  oi-  t^ 


the  nearest  ]><)rt  for  the  purpose  of  bartering-  it  against  oi 


il.'V 


ar 


tici 


es. 


Haddocks,    tiattish,    and    herriiiiis    are    al 


so     VtTV 


abuiahint  in  the  Icelandic  seas;  and  alon^-  the  northern  iuul 
nortli-western  coasts  the  baskiiij^-  shark  is  hiry-ely  lisheil  tur 
all  the  summer.  Stnuiy;  hooks  baited  with  mussels  or  pieci^ 
of  tish,  and  attached  to  chains  anch(»red  at  a  sh(»rt  distiimv 
fnun  the  shore,  serve  for  the  capture  of  this  monster,  which  i^ 
scarcely,  if  at  all,  inferior  in  si/e  t(>  the  white  shark,  thoiiir'.i 
not   nearly  so   formidable,   as   it   randy  attacks   num.     Tin 

ateii  liv 


skin  serves  for  makiny;  sandals ;  thee 


Hiirll 


oarse 


flesi 


I  IS  e 


KISIIHUIKS    01'    ICKLANI). 


71 


til  •  isliiiidcis,  whom  noct'Hsity  liiis  tjiu^ht  not  to  bo  ovt'niicc 
in  tlh'ir  t'ooil;  and  the  livtT,  the  most  valuablt'  part,  is  stownl 
In)  tin-  sake  ot"  its  oil. 

•  \Vf  liatl  observed,'  says  Mr.  Sb('i>lit>rd,  'that  th«^  horrible 
>iiirll  which  iiitt'stt'd  Jsa-fjordr  varied  in  intensity  as  we 
;i|.|iii»aihed  or  recede*!  tV(»m  a  certain  bhielv-h»okin^'  bnildin<; 
III  the  northern  r]u\  (»t"  the  t«>wn.  On  in  vest  i^'at  in  ;^"  this 
liiiildinu'.  we  discnv«'red  that  the  seat  of  the  snu'Il  was  to  bo 
li'iiiiil  in  a  mass  of  j»ntrid  sliarks'  livers,  pait  of  which  were 
iiinlcrLToini;  a  process  ol'stewinjjf  in  a  hn^-e  copper.  It  was  a 
ii-pjsdnic  i4ieen  mass,  t'eart'nl  to  contemphite.  The  place  was 
iiidiiialdc  (tidv  tor  a  tew  seconds;  vet  dirtv-h»okin<>'  men 
-tilled  up  the  mass  witli  lon^'  p(»les,  and  seemed  to  en  joy  the 
ii'i'kiii<4"  va[tonrs.' 


ic   sa 


Inion  of*  [cehmd,  wliich   formerlv  remained  nndii« 


til 


il»cd  by  the  phlei^niatic  inhabitants,  are  now  can^lit  in 
liiiu'c  numbers  tor  the  Jiritish  market.  A  small  riv»'r  b«'ariiijx 
tlic   si;4iiilicant    name   of  Laxaa,  or 


Sal 


mon-riv«'i', 


las   been 


iviited  for  th<'  trilling  sum  of  lOd/.  a  year  by  an  Kni;lisli 
ruiiipauy,  which  sends  every  sprin<^  its  agents  to  the  spot 
well  provided  with  the  best  Hshin^-  apparatus.  The  captured 
ti<li  are  immediately  b(»iled,  and  hermetically  packed  in  tin 
Im.xcs,  so  that  tliey  can  be  oaton  in  London  almost  as  fresh 
as  if  they  had  just  been  cani^dit. 

TIk'  mineral  kiuj^'dom  contributes  but  litth»  to  the  pros- 
it litv   of  Iceland.      It   affords  neither  metals,  nor  precious 


■itiiiies.   nor  ro(dv-salt,  i 


lor  C( 


)al ;   for  the  seams  of  '  snrtur- 


luMiid,'  or  '  li;4'nite,'  found  here  and  there,  are  too  nn- 
iiiilMiftaiit  to  be  worked.  The  solfataras  of  Ivrisuvik  and 
llus;ivik,  thou^'h  extremely  interestiiiu;'  i<>  the  oenloM-ist, 
likewise  '"urnish  sul[»hur  in  t<»<»  impure  a  c(mdition  or  too 
tliiiilv  scattered  to  afford  any  prospect  of  beiny'  worked  with 
Miiress,  not  to  me!iti<»n  the  vast  expense  of  transport  over  the 
iiliiiHsf  imi>assable  lava  tracts  that  separate  them  from  the* 
ii'iiicst  ports.  In  1S:)1>-K),  when,  in  consequence  of  the 
iiiMiii.|.(ily  granted  by  the  Neapolitan  ;4"overnment  to  a  French 
'■"iiijiaiiy.  sulphiM"  had  risen  to  mt»re  than  three'  times  its 
usinil  jiricc,  Mr.  Kniid.sen,  an  entt'rprisin;^-  Danish  merchant, 
umli'itook  to  work  the  mines  of  Krisuvik,  but  even  then  it 
Would  u«,t  answer. 


72 


Till',    INM.Ai:    \V(»|{|.|). 


Ill  l>i*»'.»  ii  liOiidoii  ((iiniiiinv.  roimdcd  liyMf.  liiisliliv.  wlm 
havinn"  <'\|tli>r('(l  tlic  siiljiliiir  districts,  li;i<l  niisctl  ^irnt  i\- 
pcctiitioiis  (III  \vli:i(  lie  coiisitlcftMl  tlicii'  <l<>niiiiiil  wt'iillli.— 
renewed  lln'  iitteiiipt,  l>ul  iil'tei"  ii  yejir's  Iriiil  it  wiis  iilciiidoin d 
lis  iierlectly  li.ipeless.  Tlie  '  soUiiliirils  of  leeliilid,'  siiys  I'lu- 
I'essdV  Sartoriiis  of  Wiiltersliiiiiseii,  '  ciiiiiinl  ('(niipete  with 
lli«»se  of  Sielly.  wlieve  iin»re  sul|»liiir  is  Wiiiilonly  wiisted  iiinl 
li'oddeii  under  foot  tliiin  nil  Iceland  possesses.  While  tin 
"  Niiiiiiirs "'  ol'  tile  iiuitli,  wliieli  are  lar  richer  ihiin  tiinsr 
<>r  K'risnvik,  annnally  Inrnish  scarcely  nioi-e  llian  leii  Inns. 
the  sul[thur  mines  ol'  Sicily  |tiodnce  at  least  '»(>,(►(>(>,  and.  if 
uecossary,  could  <'asily  expui't  duuhle  the  (piantity.' 

As  e  >al  is  too  e,\j»onsi\e  a  fuel  for  any  l)nt  the  rich  in  tin' 
small  seaptirt  towns,  aiul  [teat,  thon;4;h  no  thadit  abundantlv 
scatter*'*!  over  the  island,  is  dii^-  only  in  a  tew  places,  tlir 
majority  of  the  }>eo[>le  make  use  of  singular  suhstitiito. 
The  conimoiK  st  is  dried  cow's  and  sheep's  dun;^' ;  hut  niiiiiv 
a  poor  lisherman  lacks  even  tliis  'spicy'  material,  and  i> 
fain  to  use  the  hones  of  animals,  the  sl<eletons  of  Hshes  or 
dried  sea-hirds,  which,  with  a  stoical  contempt  for  his  olfiK- 
tory  origans,  he  burns,  fi'athers  and  all.  Thoro  is,  howevii'. 
no  want  (d'  fuel  in  those  privilo<jfed  spots  where  driftwood  is 
found,  and  here  the  lava  hearth  of  the  islander  clicerfiillv 
bla/os  either  with  the  ]»iii(^  conveyed  to  him  by  the  kiiidlv 
Polar  currents  from  the  Siberian  forests,  <»r  with  Sdiiir 
tri)pical  trunk,  wafted  by  the  Clulf  Stream  over  the  Atlantic 
to  his  northern  home. 


iQ  Ei'.Icr-duck. 


fi^^r:-        -.i    -V  -J 


llovdu-Brcid,  I'fuin  i:i<ib»ci. 


CI  I A  ITER  VI, 


HISTORY    OK    ICKLAXI). 

|ii«,.ivin-  "f  till'  I-ImiuI  !'}•  NiuMnilr  in  Sfil — fiarilMr-  Mnki  nt'  llic  niiviiii — In^olfr 
Mini  l.cit' — rilliiit  llir  L;i\\::iv(i' — 'I'lu'  AllliiiiLT  'riiiiiL'S.iIlM  liil  I'ljihirtimi  nt' 
(liiM^tianitv  \hU)  till'  l.-liiii(i  - -l''i'tilirii'k  the  S.-ixiui  ;iiiil  'i'linruali!  I  lie  'I'ravi  Her 
'I'liaii!.'' rai»<l  — Gdlilfii  Atri'  nf  li'ihimlii'  Lilfraturu  -  Snnrri  Stdrlcson  —  The 
I-laiul  Mil'iiiits  to  llakoii,  Kiiiii;  iit' Norway,  in  TJol  -Lniiix  Siri(Mit' (.'alriiiiitics 
—  (ircat  l-]nii>li(Hi  of  llu'  Skapta  .I('ikiill  in  I'lSi'J— CuiiiiiU'rcMJil  3Iuiiii[Mily — 
I'x  It.  r  'rimes  ill  Prospect. 

^pilK  Xor.so  vikings  weiv,  as  is  well  known,  the  boltlost  of 
I  navio-ators.  Tlu'y  possossod  nt'itlici'  the  sextant  nor  the 
euni|tass;  they  had  neither  charts  nor  chrononit'it'rs  to  <4'ui(h' 
ilhiii;  hnt  trusting-  solely  to  fortune,  and  to  flicir  own  in- 
iloniitahle  eonray;e,  they  fearlessly  launched  forth  into  the 
\;ist  ocean.  Many  of  these  intrepid  corsairs  were  no  donht 
l">t  nn  their  adventurous  expeditions,  hut  frequently  a  favour- 
;ihl<'  chance  rewarded  their  temerity,  either  with  some  rich 
liiMity  or  sonu>  more  j^'lorious  discovery. 

'fhus    in   the    year    S(il,   Naddodr,   a  Norwegian    ]>irate, 
while  sailing-  from  his  native  coast  to  the  Faeroe  Islands,  was 
ihit'ti'd  hy  contrary  winds  far  to  the  north.     For  several  days 
iKi  land  was  visible — nothin;^  but  an   interminable  waste  of 
waters;  when  suddenly  the  snow-clad  mountains  of  Iceland 


74 


TIIK   rOI.AIl    WOULD. 


w«»r«»  seen  to  rise  al)(>V('  ilir  mists  of  tho  ocraii.  Soon  iif*l<  r 
Naddiulr  landed  with  i>art  of  his  eivw,  hut  discovt'i'cd  no 
traces  of  mail  in  the  desert  eoiintry.  The  viking' tarried  hiif 
a  sh(»rt  time  on  tliis  un]>romisin<,'  eoast,oii  which  he  hostowcil 
the  ai»i>r<»|»riate  name  of  Snowland. 

Three  years  later,  (lardar,  another  northern  freehoottr, 
while  sailing'  to  the  Jlehridea,  was  likewise  driven  l>v  storm v 
weathtM*  to  Iceland.  He  was  the  first  circiimnavi^nitor  i>{' 
the  island,  which  he  called,  after  himself,  (Jardar's  h(»lm.  i>r 
the  ishind  of  (hirdar.  On  his  return  to  his  native  port,  lie 
«;avo  his  countrymen  so  ilatterin;^  an  account  of  the  newly 
discovered  land,  that  Floki,  a  famous  viking',  resolved  to 
s«'ttle  there.  Trusting  to  the  aiif^ury  of  birds,  Floki  took 
with  him  three  ravens  to  direct  him  on  his  wav.  Haviiiy; 
sailed  a  certain  distance  beyoiul  the  Faeroe  Islands,  he  •.'live 
liberty  to  one  of  them,  which  imnu'diately  returned  to  the 
land.  Proceedin^^  onwards, ho  loosed  the  second,  which, afttr 
circling  for  a  few  minutes  round  the  ship,  a^'ain  settled  on 
its  cao-i',  as  if  terrified  by  the  boundless  expanse  of  the  s<';i. 
The  third  bird,  on  obtaining;  his  liberty  a  few  days  later, 
proved  at  len<^th  a  faithful  pilot,  and  rtyiiijLr  direct  to  the 
North,  conducted  Floki  to  Iceland.  As  the  sea-kin<jf  eiiteivd 
the  broad  bav,  which  is  bounded  on  the  left  bv  the  huuv 
Snafells  Jiikull,  and  on  the  right  by  the  bold  promontory  <>t 
the  Guldbrinj^e  Syssel,  Faxa,oiieof  hiscoinpanioiis,  reniarktil 
that  a  land  with  such  noble  features  must  needs  be  of  ctni- 
siderable  extent.  To  reward  him  for  this  remark,  which 
flattered  the  vanity  or  the  ambition  of  his  leader,  the  hay 
was  immediately  named  Faxa  Fiord,  as  it  is  still  called  to 


the  present  day.     The  new 
dance  ()f  tish  they  found  in 


colonists,  attracted  l)y  the  abun- 
the  bay,  built  their  huts  on  the 


borders  of  a  small  outlet,  still  bearing"  the  name  of  Rat'iiii 
Fiord,  or  the  Raven's  Frith;  but  as  they  neg;leeted  to  makt' 
hay  for  the  wintt.'r,  the  horses  and  cattle  they  had  broui;lit 
with  them  died  of  want.  Disappointed  in  his  expectations. 
Floki  returned  home  in  the  second  year,  and,  as  miulit 
naturally  have  been  expected  from  an  unsucci'ssful  settlci'. 
I^ave  his  countrymen  but  a  dismal  account  of  Iceland,  as  lu' 
definitively  named  it. 

Yet,  in  spite  of  his  forbiddiiijj^  description,   the  politiciil 


( f)i,(».vis.\Ti(>.N  or  iii;i,.\M». 


I  •> 


-tiirl»;iii('i's  wliicli  took  pliKM'  iihoiil  tills  time  in  Xorway 
1  til  th  >  llii.il  <-<>loiiisiitioii  ot'tlit'  isliiii«l.  Il:in>l(l  lliiiirtii;j;i>r, 
ill.'  I'';iir-lriiml.  a  SfiiiKliiiiiviiiii  yarl,  hiiviii;^'  \>y  violence 
,1  ;i  sinccssl'iil  iiolicv  rt'tluft'd  iill  his  ln'otlicr-varls  to  .snl>- 
jcitinii,  liixt  coiisuliilMtt'd  tlieir  indt'iicndcnt  doniains  into 
..lie  rciiliii.  iiMil   niiiih'  liiniscit'  iil»soliitc  muster  of  the   whoh- 


I  if 


;iii 


iHII 


ili-y.     Many  iA'  his  former  e<iuals  suhniitteil  to  his  vol 


ice 


!»iit  othti's.  Miiimateil  l»y  that  nnenimiieriilde  l(tve  of  lilx'rty 
iMiiiit.'  ill  men  who  for  many  i^enenitions  have  known  no 
sii|iriii.f.  iii'i'Tcrred  setdvin;^'  a  new  home  aci'oss  the  ocean  t<» 
iL;ii'»miuions  vassala";"!'  under  the  detested  llandd.     Iny'<dfr 


:iii 


;i'ii 


1   ! 


lis      CO 


isin    licif   were    the    tirst   of   these   hiuh-niinded 


iioMi's  that  emigrated  (S<i!)-S7(»l  to  Icehind. 

(  hi  Mjiproachin;,'  the  southern  coa^t.  In^^-olfr  cast  the  sacred 
jiillai's  l»e|oM'^inL;'  to  his  former  dwcdiiuL''  into  the  water,  nnd 
\nwed  to  estal)lish  himself  on  the  s[tot  to  whiidi  they  slatuld 


III'    w 


idled  l)y  the  Wiives.  His  pious  iidentions  were  for  the 
time  trust i-ated,  as  ;i  sudden  squall  separated  him  trom  Ids 
pciiiites,  and  forced  him  to  locate  himself  on  a  neiL;hhourin'4' 
|ii'oiiiontory,  which  to  this  dav  l)ears  the  name  of  IuL;olfrshotde. 


II 


ere 


>urned  three   vears,   until  the  followers  he  had 


sent  out  in  (juest  of  the  missin«jf  pillars  at  length  brought 
him  the  jovfid  news  that  they  had  been  found  on  the  heacli 
i>\'  the  present  site  of  Reykjavik,  whither,  in  ol)edience  to 
\vh;il  he  supposed  to  be  the  divine  summons,  lie  instantly 
leiuoved.  lu:i(dfr's  friend  and  ndative  Leif  was  shortlv  after 
assassinated  hy  senile  Irish  slaves  whom  he  had  captiu'cd  in 
a  pri'datorv  descent  on  tlu'  llibei'uian  coast.  The  surviviuir 
tliicftain  deplored  the  loss  of  his  kinsman,  lamentint^-  *that 
>o  valiant  a  man  shoidd  fall  b}'  sn<di  villains,'  but  found 
iMiisolatioii  by  killin;^'  the  murderers  and  annexiiiL;"  the  lands 
el'  their  victim.  When,  in  c(»urse  of  time,  he  himself  felt 
hi>.  end  approachine',  he  re(piested  to  be  biu'ietl  on  a  hill 
e\erl<itikine-  the  tl(»rtl,  that  fr»»m  that  elevated  site  bis  si>irit 
iiiiu'lit  have  a  better  view  of  the  land  oi'  whiidi  he  was  the 
lii'-t  iidiaV)itant. 

Such  are  the  (diroincles  related  in  the  '  Landnanui  B<dv,'  or 
"  Iteek  of  ( )ccu[)ation,'  one  of  the  earliest  records  of  Icelandic 
liistory. 

luL;(i|fr  and  bis  c(»mi>anions  were  soon  ftdlowod  by  other 


76 


Tin:    IMH.AK    WolU.M. 


I    I 


niiiuniiils  (l(•si^<•ll^  d'  <'scii|iiiiL;'  iVum  the  Ivrmmv  *>\'  II:iri»l«l 
lliiiirt'iiijfi'i'.  wild  iit  lirst  fiivotin'fl  ii  iiKivi-mt'iil  tlinl  rt'iiinvnl 
f'iir  Im'voihI  till'  si'ii  sii  iMiinv  ttf  liis  tiirlnilt'iit  »hi|m»ih'M<.s,  Imi 
Hul»s('(|u»'n<ly  iiliiniicd  wt  tin*  (li'iiiii  ot' ]i(t|»iiliili<m,  <»r  tlrsiroim 
«»r  |n*nlitiii;4:  1>_V  llii'  t'xndiis,  Icvlctl  ii  fine  ^t^'  jour  ouimts  <•[ 
silvt'i"  oil  ill)  who  left  IiiM  (loiiiiiiioiis  to  scHlt'  in  IccliiiHl.     N  •  t 


KlIC 


li    w'crt'   lilt'    iiltriu-t ions   wliicli   tlio    isliiiiti   ;it    tliiil    lii 


111' 


l>n»soiit('tl.  Hint,  ill  spile  of  nil  oltstiicli-s,  not  li;ilt'ii  ci'iiturv 
rliiiiscd  lu'l'orc  all  its  inliiil)itiil>lt'  |»iirts  wrr»'  o('cM|»it'(|,  not 
only  l>y  Norwegians,  l»nt  also  liy  scttln-s  from  Denmark  ami 
Sweden,  Scotland  and  Ii'elaiid. 

Tlie  N(»rwe<j-iaiis  l)r(»n''lit  with  them  their  laimMiau*'  and 
idolatry,  their  <'Ustoms  and  historical  records,  which  tin- 
other  colonists,  hut  few  in  numhers,  were  compelled  to  ado|.t. 
At  lirst  the  udal  or  free  laud-hold  system  of  their  own 
country  was  in  vigour,  hut  every  lea<h'r  of  a  hand  of  emi;4raiit> 
l)ein<f  clntsen  hv  force  of  circumstauoes  as  the  acknowledLicd 
chief  of  the  district  occupied  hy  himself  and  compauitnis. 
sj)»>edily  ])aved  the  way  for  a  demi-feudal  system  of  vassal; 


I ,  .•, . 


ant 


I  sul 


(servu'uce 


As  tl 


le  arriva 


1  of 


new   Si 


'ttl 


ers  ren( 


leiv,l 


the  possession  of  the  land   more   valuahle,  endless   contest' 


wt'cii  tUest 


th 


petty  chiefs  arose  for  the  hetter  pastures  iiikI 


bet 

tisheries.       To    put    an    end    to  this    state    of    anarchy 


lujurlou^ 


to  tl 


le  Common   wea 


1.  Ul 


Hot 


\\ 


isi'  Avas  coin- 


missioned  to  friime  a  code  of  laws,  which  the  Icelanders,  hy 
a  siu<4:le  simultaneous  and  peaceful  eii'ort,  at'eejited  as  their 
future  constitution. 

The  island  was  now  divided  into  four  provinces  ami 
twelve  districts.  Each  district  had  its  own  judy-e,  and  il> 
own  popular  '  Thino-,'  or  asseml»ly  ;  hut  the  national  will  w;is 
emht)died  and  represented  by  the  '  Althing-,'  or  suproin' 
parliament  of  Iceland,  which  iinnually  met  at  Thin^valhi, 
nnder  an  elective  president,  or  '  Loi^inathurman,'  the  chief 
may;istrate  of  this  northern  republic. 

On  the  banks  of  the  river  Oxera,  where  the  rapid  stream. 
after  forminji-  a  majj^nificent  cascade,  rushes  into  the  lake  of 
Thinjjfvalla,  lies  the  spot  where,  for  many  a  century,  freeiiicn 
met  to  debate,  while  despotic  barbarians  still  rei^-ned  ovfi' 
the  milder  regions  (»f  Etu'ope.  Isolate^l  on  all  sides  by  deep 
volcanic  chasms,  which  some  ••■reat  revolution  of  nature  lins 


TIIINt.\  AI.I.A. 


7T 


ii  lit  ill  till'  \iist  liivn-lirM  iii'nwiitl.  :iiii1  ciiiltusuiiic*!  ill  n  vvid** 
linlr  of  Miit'k  pn'cipittiii.s  liills,  the  siliiiilioii  hI" 'riiiii^viilla  is 
r\l i-i'iii)-lv  roiiiiiiitic,  Itiit  the  M;ik*'il  *liii'k-('*)|uiir«-(|  rocks,  iiikI 
ill.'  iniifs  (>r  sMljti'n'iiiit'iiii  lir»'  vi.siMc  on  cvt-rv  side,  iiii|)!irl  a 
-li  rii  iiitl;iiifln'Iv  to  tlu'  sfciic.  TIic  liilvf,  till'  linn't'st  slifft  of 
wati'i-  ill  tlir  isliiml.  is  ;il»iiii(  IJiiity  inilts  in  tirciiiiircrfiic' ; 
it>  iMiiiiidiirii's  liiiVf  iiii(lrr;4'(»iic  iiiiiiiv  cIiiiiiLri's,  t's[>t'ci!illy 
iliiiiu:^'  till-  fiirtlitiiiiiki's  ol'tlh'  j>iist  rt'iitiir\,  ulii'ii  its  imrt  Ihtii 
iiiiirLi'iii '■•'Iliip'"*'"'!.  Nvliili'  till-  diiiiusitc  uiii'  uiis  r;iisi'il.  'I'Ih' 
.l.'jtli  III'  il-  ci'vstiil  watrrs  is  vtTV  ;4ri'iit,  aiMl  in  its  ct'iit re 
lis.'  twii  small  cratiM'-islaihls,  the  rcsnit  nf  sniiic  nnkiiown 
t'i'n|iiinii.  Till-  mountains  (III  its  south  Iniiik  liavf  a  |ii(-tni'- 
I's.jiii'  a]iiicar.im'i',  and  lari;'*'  volnnics  ol'  stiain  issiiiiiL,*'  IVom 
vi\  I'al  liot  sources  on  tlirir  sides  itiovc  that,  though  all 
III'  traiii|iiil  iiow.  the  \olcaiiic  lires  are  iio|  extinct.  (Milya 
I'l'W  Iraci's  ol'  the  aiicieiil  Althiui^-  are  left  —three  small 
iii.>iiiiils,  where  sat  in  state  the  chiefs  and  Jiid;4"es  of  the 
I  -I'oi  asthe  asseiilhly  used  to  |iiteh  theii'  tents  on  the 
lers  of  the  slreani,   and  the  deliherat  ions   wen;   held    in 


,1111 


iii'i 


th 


toh 


I  lie  o|M'ii  air,  tnei'e  are  no  ini])osin;.;'  ruins  lo  hear  winiess  lo  a 
ulurious  past.  Jlut  thou^'h  all  architectural  jiomi)  be  ahseiit, 
til"  scene  hallowed  l»y  the  recoiled  ions  of  a  thousand  years 
i>  mie  of  deep  interest  to  the  tjaveller.  The  ^'reat  features 
I'f  natui'e  are  the  same  as  when  the  freemen  <tf  Iceland 
I vciiihlid  to  settle  the  aH'airs  of  their  little  world  ;  hut  the 
:;i\.n  imw  croak's  whei'etlie  orator  aiiju^aled  lo  the  reason 
I'l'  ilie  |ia>!sious  of  his  audience,  and  the  sheep  of  the  neii^'h- 
ll"U^ill^•  pastor  crop  undisturhed  llie  ^rass  of  deseeratt'd 
TliiiiLi'v.illa. 

t 'lifistianity  was  lirst  preached  in  Icrhiiid  ahoiil  the  year 
'•'H .  hy  {''ricdrich,  a  Saxou  hishoj',  to  whom  'riiorwald  Ihe 
ti';i\('llcr,  ail  Icelander,  acted  as  iiitei'preter.  Thorwald 
having'  heeii  treated  uilh  e-ivat  severity  l>y  his  fallier,  K'o- 
'h'aii.  had  Ued  io  iJenniark,  Avhevt'  he  liad  been  (.-ouvero'd  hy 
I'li'drich.  lie  returned  with  the  pious  ljisho])to  his  i>alernal 
li'Miie,  whire  the  .solemn  service  of  the  Chrisliai:s  made 
MMiie  impression  on  Kodran,  hut  still  the  ohstiuiite  iiajj;'un 
iii'ild  not  he  prevailed  ujton  to  renounce  his  itneient  <i-ods. 
'  lie  must  believe,'  said  he,  'the  wm-d  of  his  own  [iriest,  who 
v.. IN  wont  lo  i^'ive  him  excellent   advice.'      '  Well  t  hen,'  l'e[tlied 


:s 


TlIK    Vn\.\\i    WORLD. 


Thorwnld,  'this  vonoviiblo  man  whom  T  liave  broujjclit  to  1h\ 
tlwt'llinj^  is  weak  iiixl  iiilirm,  wliile  tliy  -well-foil  priest  is 
full  of  vigour.  Wilt  thon  believe  in  the  power  of  onr  (jiod  if 
the  bislK>2)  drives  him  hence?'  Friedrich  now  cast  a  few 
drops  of  holy-water  on  the  priest,  which  imniediiitely  burnt 
<leep  holes  into  his  skin,  so  that  ho  iled,  uttering-  dreadful 
curses.  After  this  convincin^jf  proof,  Kodran  adopted  tin- 
Christiiiii  faith.  But  persuasion  and  miracles  acted  too 
slowly  for  the  fiery  Thorwald,  who  would  williu<>'ly  have 
converted  all  Iceland  at  once  with  fire  and  sword.  His  ser- 
mons were  imprecations,  and  the  least  contradiction  roused 
him  to  fury.  Unable  to  bear  so  irascible  an  associate,  the 
♦rood  bishop  Friedrich,  i^'ivin;^-  np  his  missionary  labours, 
returned  to  Saxcniy.  As  to  Thorwald,  his  restless  disposi- 
tion led  him  to  far  distant  lands.  He  visited  Greece  and 
Syria,  Jerusahun  and  Constantinople,  and  ultinuitely  founded 
a  convent  in  Russia,  where  he  died  in  the  odcmr  of  sanctitv. 

Soon  after  Thanu'brand  was  sent  by  the  Norwe^ifian  ]<mg 
Olaf  Truf»'fi'<*son  as  missionary  to  Iceland.  His  method  cf 
conversion  appears  to  have  been  very  like  that  of  his  erratic 
predecessor;  for  while  he  held  the  cross  in  one  hand,  lie 
^•ras2)ed  the  sword  with  the  other.  '  Thano-brand,'  says  iiii 
ancient  chronicler,  '  was  a  passionate  nno-oveniable  person, 
and  a  <^reat  manslayer,  but  a  j^'ood  scludar  and  clever.  He 
was  two  years  in  Iceland,  and  was  the  death  of  three  mci! 
before  he  left  it.' 

Other  missionaries  of  a  more  evan|:;elical  character  todc 
his  place,  and  jn'oved  by  their  success  that  inild  reasonini;' 
is  fre<|uently  a  far  more  etl'ectual  means  of  persuasion  than 
brutal  violence.  They  made  a  o-reat  nundjer  of  proselytes,  aid 
the  wlude  island  was  now  divided  into  two  factions  ready  to 
.appeal  to  the  sword  for  the  triumph  of  Christ  or  t)f  Odin. 
But  befoie  comin;^'  to  this  d](>adful  extremity,  the  voice  cf 
reason  was  heard,  and  the  conteiidiniL>*  parties  agreed  h' 
sulunit  the  (pn>sii<»n  to  the  decision  of  the  Althino-. 

The  assembly  met,  and  the  momentous  debate  Avas  ]iiii- 
ceedino',  when  suddenly  aloud  crash  of  subterranean  tlunidrr 
was  heard,  and  the  (>arth  shook  uiid(  r  their  feet.  '  Listen  I " 
excdaimed  a  lollowerof  Odin,  'and  beware  of  the  anu'er  ef 
our  gods  :  they  will  (oiisume  us  with  their  lires,  if  we  venlniv 


KAULY    K'KI.ANDIC   CIIUISTIAXS. 


70 


tn  (|ii('stioii  iho'w  autliority.'  The  Christian  pariy  hositutod  ; 
liiit  their  coiilidcnec  was  soon  rostorcd  by  thr  proscuce  of 
iiiiinl  of  their  chief  (>rat<»r.  Thorj^oir,  who,  i)(tintiii<4  to  th(3 
lavii-tields  around,  asked  with  whom  the  <;ods  were  an<^ry 
wlieii  tliese  rocks  were  melted  :  a  l>urst  of  eh»quenco  which 
ill  (iiice  decich'd  the  (luestion  in  favour  of  the  Cross. 

Tlie  new  faitli  hroun'ht  with  it  a  new  sjdrit  of  intellectual 
(levelopnienl,  which  attained  its  hij^'hest  splendour  in  the 
twelfth  eentur3\  Classical  studies  were  pursued  with  the 
utmost  /eal,  and  learned  Icelanders  travelled  to  (Jernnmy 
and  France  to  extend  their  knowledi;e  in  the  schctols  of  Paris, 
or  Coloii'iie.  The  Icelandic  bards,  or  scalds,  W(U"e  renowned 
tliroiit^liout  all  Scandinavia  ;  they  frequented  tlu'  courts  of 
S\\  eden,  Denmark,  and  Norway,  and  were  everywhere  r«»ceived 
with  the  hi;j,'hest  honours. 

The  historians,  or  sagamen,  of  Iceland  were  no  less  re- 
nowned than  its  scalds.  They  became  the  annalists  of  the 
whole  Scandinavian  world,  and  the  simplicity  and  truth  by 
wliich  tlii'ir  works  are  distinj^'uished  fully  justify  their  hi<4'h 
rcimtation.  Anions-  the  many  remarkable  men  wlio  at  that 
time  u'raced  the  literature  of  the  Arctic  isle,  Siimund  Frode, 
the  learned  author  of  the  '  Voluspa '  (a  work  on  the  ancient 
Icelandic  mytholoe-y)  and  the  '  Havamal '  (a  g'eneral  chronicle 
of  events  from  the  be<^-inning-  of  the  world)  ;  Are  Thor<^'ilson, 
wl\ose  '  Landnama  Bok  '  relates  Avith  the  utmost  accuracy 
tlie  annals  of  his  native  land  ;  and  Gissur,  who  about  the 
year  1180  described  his  voya^-es  to  the  distant  Orient,  deserve 
to  be  particularly  mentioned;  but  yreat  above  all  iu  j^'enius 
iind  fauH^  was  Snorri  Sturleson,  the  Herodotus  of  the  Nctrth, 
whose  eventful  life  and  tragic  end  would  well  deserve  to  be 
vecdunted  at  greater  length. 

(iifted  Avilh  the  rarest  talents,  and  chief  of  the  most  power- 
ful familv  of  the  island,  Snorri  was  elected  in  121-">t«»  thehitjdi 
titlice  of  Logmathurman  ;  Imt  disgusting  his  stimlv  counti'v- 
iib'n  by  hi.s  excessive  haughtiness,  he  was  obliged  to  retire 
to  the  court  of  Ilakovi,  king  of  Norway.  During  this  «>xile 
lie  cullected  the  materials  for  his  justly  celebrated  '  Heims- 
kriuiila,'  or  Chronicle  of  the  Kings  of  Norwav.  Returnin<r 
lintiie  ill  1221,  he  Avas  again  named  Logmathurman;  but 
ie-  lie  endeavoured  to  pave  th(>  way  for  the  annexation  of  his 


80 


THK    I'OLAK    \\OR[,D. 


native  (tuiinti'y  to  the  Norwejjfiiin  realm, his  f'oreii^n  iutii^uts 
eaiised  a  risiiii^  Jij^aiiist  his  uuthoritj,  and  he  ^vas  once 
more  compelled  to  take  refuge  in  Norway.  Here  he  rr- 
mained  several  years,  until  the  triumph  <»f  his  own  i'actieii 
allowed  him  to  return  to  his  family  estate  at  Reikholt,  wluiv 
lie  was  murdei'ed  on  a  dark  September  ni;^ht  in  the  year 
1211.  Thus  perished  the  most  remarkable  man  Iceland  has 
ever  })roduced.  The  republic  itself  did  not  lon^-  stu'vive  his 
fall:  for,  weary  of  the  interminable  feuds  of  their  chiels. 
the    jM'ople    voluntarily    submitted  to   llakon  in    l^ol,    ami 


the    nii(Ulle    of   the    thirteenth    centu 


y 


Avas    siii'nalisei 


1    1. 


the    transfer  of   the  island  to   the  Norwegian   crown,  after 
three  hundred  and  fortv  years  of  a  tui'bident  but  glorious 


h 


iiKlepenuence. 

i'rom  that  time  the  p<ilitical  history  of  tin?  Icelanders  oU'ers 
but  little  interest.  AVilh  their  annexation  to  an  European 
monarchy  perished  the  vigour,  restlessness  and  activity  wliirh 
had  characterised  theii'  forefathers;  and  though  the  Althing' 
still  met  at  Thingvalla,  the  national  spirit  had  tied.  It  was 
still  further  subdued  by  a  long  chain  of  calanuties — plagues, 
famines,  volcanic  eru[>tions,  and  piratical  invasions — wlii 
following  each  other  in  rapid  succession,  devastated  the  land 
and  decimated  its  unfortunate  iiduibitants. 


Ol 


In  1  lOJ  that  terrible  plague,  the  memory  of  which  is  sti 
lev  the  nanie  of  tin'  '  IJlack  Death,'  carried  i 


ireserve(l  uik 


oWcu 


I 

nearly  two-tliirds  of  the  whole  po[)ulafii^iu,  and  Avas  foil 
by  such  an  inclement  winter  that  iiine-tenths  ol' the  cattl<'  in 
the  island  died.  The  misi'ries  of  a  peo]>le  sulfei'ing  IVeni 
pestilence  and  famim*  were  aggravated  l)y  the  English  fislirr- 


miui. 


'who,  in  spite  of  the  remonstrances  of  Ihe   Danish 


vernment,  frequenti'd  the  defenceless  coast  in  consideralili' 
nund>ers,  and  wert>  in  fact  little  better  than  the  old  sea-robbers 
who  lirst  colonised  the  island,  plundering  and  burning  on  the 
main,  and  holding  the  wealthy  inhabitants  lorans(»m.  Tlicir 
predatory  iiieursions  were  frequently  i\peated  during  tin' 
seventeenth  eentury,  and  even  the  distant  ^Mediterranean  scut 
its  Algerine  pirates  to  add  t(»  the  calamities  of  Iceland. 

TIu>  eighteenth  century  was  ushered  in  by  the  small-i»ox. 
which  carried  olf  sixteen  thousand  of  the  inhabitants.  1" 
the  middle  of  the  century      ,-e\ere  wintt.rs  foUnwing  in  rapi'l 


Vdl.CA.VlC    KKl'l'TlONS. 


81 


siifi't'ssioii — Viist   iniinbci's  df  mttlc  diod,  iiKlucin^-  a  t'ainiiic 
tli;i1  :iL;;iiii  s\v<'pt  iiway  ten  llutusaiid  iiihabitant.s. 

.>iiiic  the  lirsl   (•iiloiiisaticm  vi'  K-i'laiid.  its  imiiicrous  vol- 
i;iiii"'s  liad  l'iV(|iit'iit l_v  ]tr(iUL;lit  ruin   iijMtu  wlidlo  (listriet.s — 
tu.  !it\-iivL' limes  liad  Jli'<-la.  clevi'ii  tiiin'S  K<ithiL;'i;'i,  six  tinu'S 
Th'llihlvnixja,  live  liiin's  ()iviela,  vtnuiled  forth   (lieir  lorrciils 
iii'  ir.ulti.'ii   sloiie,  williiMit  eoiiiitiiin'  a    uuiiiber  ol'  siilnnariiie 
wilciiiiic  ex|»losioiis,  or  whei'e  tiie  plain   wi-.s  siulilenlv  rent 
1111(1  ihmii's  and  aslies  hurst  onl  dt'  llie  earth  :  liul  the  eruption 
I't'  Skaiitar  J('ikull  in  1  7S.|  was  the  niosl   I'ri^htl'nl  \isilatioii 
cvi-r  known   to   liave   desolated   the  island.      The   preeedin|4' 
uii.'tt  r  and  s[»rinu-  litul  been  unusually  mild,  and  the  islanders 
h'l.kid  I'lrward  to  a  jtrosperous  summer;   hut   in  tlu' beniu- 
iiiii;_;'  oi' June  repeated  trendjlinys  ol'   the  earth,   inereasinj;" 
in    violenct,'   from  day  to  day,    aiuiouiiced    that  the    subter- 
ranean  pnwers  that  had  Ioul;' been  siiunlx'rinj^*  under  the  iey 
mantle  (d"  the  Skaptar  Avere  ready  to  awake.     All  the   nei^'h 
hniu'in^'  I'ca.-ants  al)andoned  their  hi'.ts  and  erected  tents  in 
till-  open  held,  anxiouslv  awaitin;'"  the  result  of  these  terrific 
warning's.     ( )n  the  !)th,   iunuense  pillars  of  smoke  collected 
nvcr  llie  hill  countiy  towards  the  n(»rth,  and  rolling'  down  in 
a  soutiu'rly  direction,  covered  the  wholi>  district  of  Sitliu  with 
ilarkness.       Lou<l    sul)ierranean  thunders  t'oll(,>wed  in   ra}iid 
>ticcessi(!n.  and  innunieraltle  iire-sp<»u'!s  were  seen  leapinu'  and 
Having'  throuj^h   the  dense  cano[)y  vi'  smoke  and  ashes  that 
ciivi'liipi'd  the  land.     The  heat  ragiuy  in  the  interior  t>f  the 
viiirauo  melted   enorinous   masses  of  ice  and    snow,   \vhich 
iau>ed  the  river  Skapta  to  rise  to  a  prodi^'ious  hei^'ht ;  l>ut  on 
tlir    Mill  torrents  of  ilre  usur[)ed  the  plarr  of  watei",  for  a 
vast   lava-stream  break'in«4'  forth  from  tin'   uaMuitain,  ilowed 
'l"wn    in  a   soutlierly  direction,   until  reaching-  the   river,  a 
tr.inendous  coullict  arose  between  the  ivvo  hostile  elements, 
riiiiun-h   the  channel  was  six  hundred    ffit  deep    and   two 
liuiidivd  t'et.'t  wide,  the  lava-llood,  [lourin^;'  down  one  liery  wave 
ait''r  another  into  the  yawnin;^'  abyss,  ultimately  <4'ained  the 
viit'iry,  and  blocking-  up  the   stream,   overllowed   its   banks. 
t'lMssini;'  the   low  country    of  Medalland,    it   poured  into  a, 
i!i'''ut  lake,  uliich  after  a  few  dti^s  was  likewise  completely 
'illt'd  ap,   and   having'  divided  into   two  streams,    the  iinex- 
nuu-^ted  torj'cnt  again  poured  on.  overHowin;^' ni  one  directi^m 


S-' 


Tin:  I'oi.Ai;  wuimj). 


SMiiic    iiiu-it'iil     !;i\a    lirlds,    ninl    in    iniotlnT    rc-riilcriiiLi'  t 
rli;iiiiicl  III' till'  Sk;i[»la  iiiiil  It'll itiiin' (luwii  ilii'  loi'is  iMtiUMi 


t  i>\ 


n  ;i 


Sf  ;i  |i;iioss.  IJiil  t!iis  was  111(1  iill,  j'or  wliilc  oin'  laxa  I! 
hail  clKist'ii  till'  Sliajila  I'oi"  i1>  lie.!,  jiunllici',  (Irs-cinliiiL;'  i 
ditl'i'i'oil  <lir<'<-l  ion,  was  wdi'kiii;^"  siciilai'  ruin  aliai.^'  llif  Itank- 
ni'lh."  II  vi'vlislliot .  W'iu-tlii'i'  (lie  saiiii'  rraicr  u-av^'  hirilil' 
Im»1Ii.  it   is   iiiiio-sililc  to   sav,  as  cncii    llic  fxtciit  o|'  llic  |;i\;i. 


<'i'i|       >i 


low 


can  onlv  li"  ni.'as'ii-'d  iVoinili''  spot  svIkti'  it  ontcVi 


■(1  I  ill' 


iulialiitcd  <ii>!  i'i''t>.  ^I'lic  st  ream  u  liidi  iollowfti  t  lit-  dirrct  inn 
of  Sk;ij)t;i  is  ciil'-iiIali'iHo  lii\  >•  Ix'i'ii  ;i1»out  til'tv  miles  in  ii'nutii 
Iiv  twelve  or  lil'tcen  at  its  Lirealest  I'l'eadtli  :  tliat  wliidi  rollcij 
(lowii  the'  JlveJ'lislliot  at  I'orty  miles  in  li'imlh  h\  seven  in 
hreiidt  li. 

Where  it  \va  -  iiiel:is,il,  l/e1  ween  1  lie  ]ireeiiiilens  lanks  ol'lli,' 
Ska[ia.  i  he  !a\  a  is  li\i'oi'si.\  hnndi'ed  feet  thick,  Init  as  sunn 
as  it  sjiread  (Uit  iid  »  the  jilain  its  deplli  never  exceeth'd 
hnndiv  (I  I'eet ,  The  ecnpt  ion  of  sand.  :islies-  pnmiee.  nnd  I; 
continued  till  the  end  of  An;^ii>t  when  at  len^ifh  the  \; 
suI)teriMne;i  n  (nmult  >:iihsid(  <l. 

Jhit   iisdirerul   elTeets  wi've  i'ell  for  a    Ioml;'   timo   af'ti 
onlv  ill  it;--  ininiediao'  vieinits.  hnt  oxer  the  ulio'.e  of  Icehin 


OlM' 
1V,I 


IH> 


and  added  jir.uiv  a  niouiaifnl  [ia;.;e  to  jn'i-  loi!'_;-  annais  >■( 
sorrow,  j'or  a  wlmh*  vear  a  dun  e:inoj>v  of  cin(h'i-!;;'lr)i 
(douds  hun'j,'  ovi'i'  the  uidri|']>y  i-^!iind.  Sand  and  a>li''<. 
cai'i'iedlo  an  eiioinious  liei^'jit  inio  ih"  a1  niitsphere,  sja'ciiil 
fai'  and  \viile  aiid  o\  ei'w  lnhiied  lh(ai^aiids  ui'  acres  of  frliii' 
])asluraL',e.  The  I'aeroes,  the  SlH'lland>.  and  the  (>i'kih\> 
were  deiiiued  witii  \olea  iiic  du-^l  which  j)erce[ii  ihl  v  coiilmiii- 
naf'd  e\en  ihi'  i^kies  of  llii:^laiid  and  Holland.  Jf'j'liili'' 
va|i(airs  o]»S(  isred  the  rays  of  (lie  sun,  and  tlie  Milpliiiruii> 
I'xhalal  i<>ns    tainttd    ho'di    tlie    u'ra^s    (»f    tlio    fadd    and   tl- ■ 


\v 


iit'rs  of  the    lake,  liie   liver  and  th 


e    se 


tiiat    no!    iiiih. 


so    jieia^lh 


^v 


I  ;:i  1' 


the  cattle  died  hy  t  hoiHands,  jpiil  the  jish  a 
tlu'ir  poisoiii'd  element.  The  unheahhy  air,  and  the 
lood-t'or  hunii'r  a!  las!  (hove  them  to  have  recour.  e  i 
uuianned  hides  and  old  iealhei- — u'ave  vls(>  t<»  a  di.M'ii- 
reseinhlinu'  scurvy  auioiii;  the  iinfortuuale  leekpaders.  Tlii 
heail  and  liiid>s  hc^-au  to  swell,  the  hones  seemed  le  '" 
disiendinn'.      l)i'eadlul  (aMiiijis    forcdthe   patient    lost; 


;!'!:■ 


mitortion 


T'l 


le     LiUms     loeseiied,     the    decomposed      i'l'<' 


ICKLANDIf    .MoNul'Ol.Y 


81 


(H./c(l  froiu  till' mouth  and  the  ulcerous  skin,  and  a  low  days 
.,r  i.iriiiciii  iiml  [»i'ostrii1i<>ii  were  t'ollowcMl  by  death. 

Ill  iiiaiiv  11  secluded  valo  whole  I'ainilies  were  swejit  away, 
nil. I  tliitsf  thai  escajM'd  tlie  sroui'ij;e  had  hardly  .sti'eiiL;-th 
Millifinit  to  hiirv  the  dead. 


.-miI'VdW  -A'aA  Mil  ;ni>  I 
Au'l  fvil  ami  lire  I'l. 

IviVl'l'ipr  a   ll.llioll  — 

'I'hc  ).lr-t  arr  till'  (Icail, 

"Will)   Sir    Ili.I    l!|r   ."iiillt 

(>!'  t!hir  ciwn  d.  ;-'ilat  ion. 

So  L;rrat  was  the  runi  eauscil  hy  this  one  eruption  that  in 
l!ic  short  spa<t'  oT  two  yoars  no  less  than  l>-"!:>(»  men,  2S,0(M» 
liipixs.  II.ICI  cattle,  and  l!M>,(i(io  shee[> — a  lar^'e  proportion 
(if  llie  wealth  and  popnlation  of  the  island — were  swept 
;i\\iiy. 

After  fliis  (h'eadi'id  i-atastrophe  t'ollowcd  a  lony  iieri<>d  of 
vilraiiic  rest,  tor  tin.'  next  eruption  ol'the  Myjalialla  did  not. 
take  pi  !ce  bei'ore  J^^lil.  A  twcli'th  ei'uption  of  KiWliiLi'ja 
ii'Turrc.l  iu  182-),  the  twenty-sixth  ofllecla  in  lSl')-l(!;  and 
iiltiniaicly  the  thirteenth  of  Ki'itluu'ja  in  \X(\^).  Since  then 
there  has  hecn  repose;  hut  who  knows  what  future  disasters 
limy  he  pve2)arinf»'  beneath  those  icy  rid^'es  and  fields  of  snow 
efSkapta  and  his  frowninn'  compeers,  where  uo  human  foot 
has  ever  wandered,  or  how  soon  thev  mav  awaken  their 
il'iiiiant  thumlers'J 

15  sides  the  sutferincs  causeil  l»y  the  elenn'uts,  the  curse  of 
iii<iiiii]ioly  wein'hed  for  many  a  IoUl;"  year  upon  the  miserable 
Ic'liinders.  The  Danish  kind's,  to  whom  on  tlie  anialL^ama- 
t:"!i  of  the  three  Scandinavian  imniaridiies  the  alie^'iance  of 
th'  j.eople  of  Iceland  was  passively  transfen-ed,  e(tn.sidered 
ili'ii'  poor  (h'[iend(.'ncy  as  a  private  domain,  to  be  farmed  ,,ii1 
t'iihe  hiehest  bidder.  In  the  Kith  eentui'y  the  Ilanseatic 
Tiiwiis  purchased  the  exclusive  pi'ivilet;'e  of  trading-  with 
I'eland  :  and  in  lo'.M'  a  Danish  comi»any  was  fivoured  witli 
die  monopoly,  I'lir  which  it  had  to  pay  the  paltry  sum  of 
b'>  ilxilollars  for  each  of  the  p(.rts  of  th"  island. 

Ill  the  yciir  ISOii  a  new  company  paid    lodO  dollars  for  the 
h'  1  iiMJic  moiiojtoly  ;   but  at   the  ex|)iratioii  of  the  contract, 


'M' 


h  of  the  ports  was  fanned  out  t<.»  the  highest   bidder— a 


84 


TlIK    ro|,AI{    WOULD. 


liiiiiiieiiil  iiiii»i(»vt'm('ti1.  wliidi  riiiscd  tlif  ri'vcuut.'  to  h!,oii(t 
(lolliirs  ii  vt'iir,  mid  ulliiiiiitrly  to  22,000.  The  iiiealruliil»l<' 
misery  produced  bv  the  eruption  of  the  Sk.ipta  had  at  k'nst 
the  heucliciiil  t'oiisc(|Ut'nc<'  that  it  souifMvhat  h>oseued  tlic 
bonds  of  iiioiio|M(ly,  iiN  it  now  bccuinc  free  to  every  Danish 
merchant  to  trade  \vi1h  tiie  island;  but  it  is  in\\y  since  April 
1855  that  the  last  restrictions  liave  fallen  and  the  ports  i.t 
Iceland  been  opened  to  tlie  merchant.s  {>{'  all  iiJitions.  It  i> 
to  be  hoped  that  the  beneficial  otfects  of  free  trjth'  will 
gradually  heal  the  wounds  cansed  by  ci'nturies  of  neglect 
and  misfortune;  but  "^ivat  pro^'ress  must  be  made  bcfoiv 
Iceland  can  attain  the  dej^Tce  »*f  prosperity  which  she  enjoyed 
lii  the  times  of  her  independence. 

Then  she  had  above  a  liuncUvd  thousand  iidiabitants,  new 
she  has  scarcely  half  that  numl)er  ;  then  she  had  many  rich  ainl 
powerful  families,  now  medio'-rity  or  poverty  is  the  universiil 
lot ;  then  she  was  renowned  all  over  the  North  as  the  seat 
of  learnin<^'  and  tl.ie  cradle  of  literature,  now  were  it  not  tor 
her  remarkable  physical  features,  no  traveller  would  ever 
thiidv"  (»f  landinu'  on  her  ruiiL>-ed  shores. 


I 


The  Long-taikd  Duck. 


The  I.nvii  Fir'.d  nt  Sr,!  t3- lIHlu  . 


CIIAI'I^KK'    VII, 


Tl(  F,     ](' Kl,.\  X  DK  HS. 


"^kallmli  —  Urvkiavik— Tlio  F;ur 


I'.'isrin 


r  aii'l  the  Mercli.iiit     A  Clergyniiiti 


111  I 


ii>    ('ill' 


-Ilav-iii;ikin£i — Tlie  Ici'liindrr's    Hi;t     ("Inivi'lirs— Povortv  of  tlir 


Clii'iiv — .F'jii  'rii(irlak>on-  'I'lu'  ScniiiKiry  dt'  Roykjavik — luiufirial  Iiitiufiico  of 
i]u>  C'liii;y — lloiii.'  Ivlu.Mtidii  Til.'  lrc!aiul('i'"s  Winter's  Kvciiiiic; — Taste  fur 
I, it. val lire— Till'  Laiiirunpi'  'I'lir  I'ulilii'  liilmiry  at  Kiykjavik-'riio  Icrlaiidii' 
Literary  S.x'iefy — Jcelamlie  NmAsiKipors— Ijoiifrcvily — Le|'ro>y—  'l'rav(llir,p:  in 
li'ilaiul — Fcn'diiiir  tie'  I?ivi'vs  -CrDssinf;  of  tlic  Sk(i<lara  liy  Mi'.  Holland — A 
Ni^lit"'-  ilivdiiai'. 

'V  KXT  to  Thiii^viillii,  tlicvo  is  no  pliU'c  iu  rcoliind  so  rcplnto 
*^  witli  lilstorieal  intorost  as  Skalholt,  its  ain-iciit  oiipital, 
lli'i'i'  ill  till'  ol*>V(Mitli  ct'iitiirv  was  foiiiidod  tlio  first  school 
i)i  tli<>  island;  lioro  wiis  tlio  soiit  of  its  iirst  bisliops;  lioro 
llntirislicd  ii  suc'cossioii  <'!'  i^roat  orators,  historians,  and 
IMifts:  Isleif,  tli«^  oldost  rhronit'lcr  of  the  North;  (lissnr, 
wlin  in  the  Ix'o-inniiifj;  of  tho  twtdfth  contni'v  had  visited 
all  the  conntrios  of  Enropo  and  spoko  all  their  lano-uno-es  ; 
ill"  [>hilolf)<4-ian  Thorlnlc,  and  Finnnr  Johnson,  tlie  learned 
tiiiilior  of  the  'Ecclesiastical  History  of  Iceland."  The 
t-atlicdral  of  Skalholt  was  renowned  far  and  wide  lor  its  size, 


86 


Till!:    VOL.Wl    \V()I{|.1>. 


I'> 


and  in  the  yciir  1  mM>,  LjiHii,  poeirv,  imisie,  and  rlu'toric,  tlit^ 
four  libeiiil  nrts,  wore  tiui^lit  in  its  school,  more  than  thi  y 
"Nvere  at  that  time  in  iniiny  of  the  lar^e  European  eitie.^. 
As  -i  proof  i.oNV  early  tht)  study  of  the  ancients  flourishi'd  in 
Skalholt,  we  find  it  recorded  that  in  the  twelfth  century,  ii 
bishop  once  cauo-ht  a  scholar  rea<lin^-  (Jvid's  '  Art  of  Love/ 
and  as  the  story  relates  tliat  the  venerable  pastor  tlew  iiitu 
a,  vi<dent  passion  at  the  sij^ht  of  the  unludy  book,  Ave  niiiy 
without  injustice  conclude  that  lie  nnist  have  read  it  hiiii- 
selt  in  some  of  his  leisure  hoiu's,  to  know  its  character  so 
well. 

Of  all  its  past  ylories,  Skalholt  has  retained  nothing' but 
its  naino.  The  school  and  the  bishopric  have  l)een  reniovcil, 
the  old  church  lias  disappeared,  and  been  replaced  by  ;i 
small  wooden  bnildinj^",  in  which  divine  service  is  held  oinv 
a  month  ;  three  cottayes  contain  all  the  iidiabitants  of  llu' 
once  celebrated  city,  and  the  extensive  churchyard  is  tin' 
oidy  memorial  of  its  fornnn*  importance.  Close  by  are  the 
ruins  of  the  old  schoolhouse,  and  on  the  spot  where  tiic 
bishop  resided,  a  peasant  has  erected  his  miserable  hovel. 

But  the  ever-chan;^"ing'  tide  of  human  aiiairs  has  iint 
bereft  the  now  lonely  place  of  its  natural  charms,  for  tlic 
meadow-lands  of  Skalholt  are  beautifully  indK'dded  in  ;iii 
undulating  ranye  of  hills,  overlooking'  the  junction  oi'  tln' 
Bruara  and  Huita,  and  backed  by  a  ma^'uificent  theatre  (tf 
mountains,  amongst  which  llecla  and  the  Eyafyalla  are  tla- 
most  prominent. 

Eeykjavik,  the  present  capital  of  the  island,  has  risoii 
into  importance  at  the  expense  both  of  Skalholt  and 
Thing-valla.  At  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  the 
courts  of  justice  were  transferred  from  the  ancient  seat  v\' 
legislature  to  the  new  metropolis,  and  in  171)7  the  bishoprics 
of  Hooluni  and  Skalholt,  united  into  one,  had  their  seats 
likewise  transferred  to  Reykjavik.  The  ancient  school  cf 
Skalholt,  after  having  hrst  migrated  to  Bessestadt,  has  also 
been  obliged  to  follow  the  centralising  tendcaicy,  so  powerful 
in  our  times,  and  now  contributes  to  the  rising  fortunes  vi! 
the  small  seaport  town. 

But  in  spite  of  all  these  accessions,  the  first  aspect  (f 
Reykjavik    by   no    nu'ans    corresponds     to   our  ideas  <»f  ii 


]{i:VK.IAVIK. 


87 


(•;i)iit;il.  '  Tilt'  town,'  Siiys  L<»r<l  DulVcriir",  'consists  of  :i, 
(•i.ll.'cliuii  of  wooden  sIkmIs,  one  story  lii;4'li — risinL^-  here  iunl 
llicrc  into  ii  ;^Ml)lt'  end  of  i^Teiiter  [»retensions  -  ImiH  iiloii;^' 
the  hi.Vii  traek,  and  flunked  iit  eitlier  end  l>v  a  snburh  of 
turf  Inits.  Hn  every  side  of  it  extends  a  desolate  plain  «»f 
liivii,  tliiil  once  n»nst  have  i)oiled  uj)  red-lioj  from  some 
distiint  ^iitewiiy  of  hell,  and  fiillen  liissin!^'  into  the  sea.  No 
tree  ..r  Inisli  relieves  llie  dreariness  of  the  landscape,  and 
Hi.'  iiiMunlains  are  loo  distant  to  serve  as  a,  baekirround  to 
llie  I'UJMin'^'s;  bnt  before  tho  door  of  each  n»er(diant's  house 
teinL;'  the  sea,  there  ilies  a,  ;^ay  little  pennon;  and  as  you 
walk  ;iloir_;-  tlu'  silent  streets,  \vh<»se  dust  no  carria^'e-Avlieel 
]u[<  I'Vi'r  desecriitcfl,  tlio  ro\^ s  of  llower-pots  lliat  peep  out 
of  tlie  windows,  between  curtains  of  Avhite  nnislin,  at  onee 
f'lniui'e  vou.  that  ii(»t\vitlistan<lin^'  their  nnpi'etendinm'  ap- 
pearance, within  (Mch  dwellinn*  reiyn  tlu>  elegance  and 
(onil'iTl  of  a  woman-tended  home.' 

'I'wenfy  years  sinc<\  lleylsjavik  ^vas  no  better  than  a, 
wfctclied  lishing'  vilhu;-e,  now  it  already  nnnibers  l.M'O 
iuliabilants,  and  fre(>-trado  promises  it  a  still  <j;Teater  increase 
for  the  future.  It  owes  its  prosperit}'  chielly  to  its  excellent 
|ior1.  ami  to  the  abundance  of  tish-l»anks  in  its  nei^-hl)our- 
lieiiil.  which  have  induced  the  Danish  merchants  to  make  it 
their  princi[tal  settlement.  Most  oftheui,  however,  )nere]y 
visit  it  ill  sinunKU'  like  birds  of  jsassage,  arrivin;^-  in  ^lay 
with  small  car^-oes  of  jbreign  i^oods,  au<l  leavin<;'  it  a^-ain  in 
AuLr'Ht.  after  havin;jf  dis[)osed  of  their  wares,  "i'lnis  Jieylv- 
javik  must  Ite  lonely  and  dreary  eiiouuh  in  winter.  A\heu  no 
tiM'li'  aiiiniates  its  jiort,  and  no  tr.iveller  stays  at  its  solitary 
imi  :  Imt  the  joy  of  tin.'  inhabitants  is  all  the  greater,  when 
till'  return  of  spring  reopens  their  int<'rcourse  witli  the  re>t 
cf  the  World,  and  the  delight  may  lie  imagined,  with  which 
I  hey  hail  the  first  ship  that  l)rings  them  the  loiin-exjiectcil 
iicws  fr<  in  Europe,  and  i)erhaps  scaue  wealtJiy  tourist,  eager 
to  a.haire  the  won<lers  of  the  (Jeysirs. 

Tin'  most  bus}'  time  of  the  tt)wn.  is  however  tin.'  beginning 
•  if  July,  when  the  annual  fair  attracts  a  great  nuiiilur  nf 
li'shi'i'iiieu  and  peasants  within  its  walls.     J''rom  a  distance 


»   •  L.tt.Ts  fi-nni  IIi-li  I.alitu(!.-.-,'  j..  :i:,. 


88 


Tin:  roi.AK  woRi.n, 


of  forty  nnd  fifty  louf^ucH  jiround,  tlu>y  conic  with  Iohm"  tviiips 
of  piU'k-liorst's ;  tlu'ir  stock-lisli  slunjjf  freely  ju-ross  tln' 
iinimiils'  bticlv.s,  tlioir  more  <limui<^«'Jibk'  articles  close  pivsswl 
iiiul  packed  in  l)oxes  or  skin  l)a}j;s. 

The  <4reater  part  of  the  trade  hi  this  and  other  siniill 
seaports,  such  as  Akreyri,  llafnafjord,  Kyrarhacki,  IJirii- 
fjord,  Vapiiafjord,  Isafjord,  (irafaros,  liudenstadt ;  wliicli. 
taken  all  tofjether,  do  not  equal  Reykjavik  in  traltic  iiinl 
p<»pulation — is  carried  on  by  barter.* 

Sometimes  the  Icelander  desires  to  bo  paid  in  specie  fdv 
part  of  his  produce,  but  then  he  is  obli<4ed  to  barf^-ain  for  n 
lon^'  time  \vith  the  merchant,  Avho  of  course  derives  a,  (loiiblc 
prolit  by  an  oxchaiifje  of  <^<)ods,  and  is  loth  to  i)art  with  his 
hard  cash.  The  dolliirs  thus  acquired  fire  either  mellcd 
down,  and  worked  into  silver  massive  i^irdh's,  which  in  poin* 
of  execution  as  well  as  dcsig-n  are  said,  on  <,'ood  aTithoriiy,+ 
to  be  equal  to  anythinj:^  of  the  kind  fashioned  by  Eni^Iisli 
jewellers,  or  else  deposited  in  a.  stronpf  box,  as  taxes  iiud 
wa<4"es  are  all  paid  in  produce,  and  no  Icelander  ever  thiii1<s 
of  investing'  his  money  in  stocks,  shares,  or  debentures. 

He  is,  however,  by  no  means  so  ionoraut  of  mercantile 
affjiirs  as  to  strike  at  once  a  bar^-ainwith  the  Danish  trailfis. 
Pitchiuii-  his  tent  before  tin;  town,  he  first  pays  a  visit  to  nil 
the  merchants  of  the  place.  After  carefully  notinq*  tliciv 
several  offers  (for  as  each  of  them  invariably  treats  him  to  ;i 
dram,  he  with  some  justice  mistrusts  his  memory),  he  returns 
to  his  caravan  and  mak(\s  his  calculations  as  well  as  liis 
somewhat  confused  brain  allows  him.  If  he  is  accompaiiicil 
by  his  Avife,  her  opinion  of  conrse  is  decisive,  and  the  following; 
niorniui^  he  repairs  with  all  his  o-oods  to  the  merchant  wlwt 
has  succeeded  in  jj;'ainin<i'  his  confidence. 

After  the  business  has  been  concluded,  the  peasant  empties 
one    g-lass   to   the    merchant's  health,  another  to  a  happv 


*  III  18."),"),  Icclaiul  imported  amontr  otliovs  :  (')').'\'2  \n<vL!,  of  limlior,  1  IS.OliSlls. 
(if  iron,  37,7l)(»  lbs.  hemp,  IT),! 70  flsliiiiff  Wnea,  20.8 Hi  lbs.  salt,  C>,iuH)  ton's  ot'oifll. 

Th(>  chief  cxportations  of  the  .saiiu'  vrar  were  tallow  932.()0(i  lbs,,  wool  l,,')()l),o2;) 
lbs.,  09,30>)  pains  of  .stofkingsi,  L*7.100  pairs  of  fxlnves,  12,7 12  salted  sheepskins,  411(! 
lbs.  eiderdowns,  '20,000  lbs.  otiier  teatlicrs.  211  liorscs,  and  2  l,07U  sliip'<  |>miniN 
(the  ship's  pound  =  ,'{20  lbs.)  salt  fish. 

t  15arrow.  '  Visit  to  Toeland.'  1,S,"1. 


THK  i:kki:(ts  or  iil'm. 


HO 


iii.'i'linu  next  vcar,  ii  tliird  to  the  kill'',  ii  foiirtli  Vx'Cimse 
tliri'c  liiivc  been  dnuik  already.  At  leiiMfli,  after  many 
.•mliraces,  ,\\u\  2)r(»tfstat ions  of  eternal  friondsliip,  h(>  takes 
his  li-ave  of  the  nirn-liant.  F»»rtnnat(dy  then»  is  n«»  thief  to 
Iti'  fniuid  in  all  Iceland:  but  in  eonse(inence  of  these  repeatt'd 
lihiitions,  one  i)are(d  lias  not  been  well  packed,  another 
i),.nlio,.||(ly  attached  to  the  horse,  and  thns  it  hai»pens  that 
tlic  [loor  peasant's  track  is  not  nnfrecpiently  marked  with 
sii^ar,  cotVee-beans,  salt  or  (lour,  and  that  when  he  reaches 
lioiiic,  lu'  liuds  some  vahiablt*  article  or  other  missing. 

It  uuidd,  however,  be  dc»inn-  the  Icelanders  an  injnstioe  to 
ri'l^ard  them  as  <i"enerally  inteni[»erate  ;  tor  though  within  the 
last  tu'elve  years  the  populati(»n  has  incvi'ased  only  ten  per 
cent.,  ami  the  importation  of  brandy  thirty,  yet  the  whole 
(|uanlity  of  spirits  consumed  in  the  island  amounts  to  less 
than  three  bottles  per  annum  for  each  individual,  and,  of 
ihis  all(»wanc(\  the  pe<tple  of  Reykjavik  and  of  the  other 
small  seaports  have  more  than  their  share,  while  many  of 
the  clery'v  and  iK'asantrv  in  the  remoter  districts  hardly  ever 
t.iste  spirituous  li(jUors.  Dr.  Hooker  mentions  the  extra- 
ordinary elt'ect  which  a  sni-all  portion  of  rum  produced  on 
tlie  L^dod  old  incumbent  of  ]Middalr.  whose  stomach  had  been 
accustomed  only  to  a  milk-diet  and  a  little  cofiee.  '  He 
be^nvd  me,'  says  the  Doctor,^'"  'to  e-ive  him  some  rum  to 
I'.ithe  his  wife's  breast;  but  having;'  applied  a  portion  of  it 
to  tliiit  [lurpose,  he  drank  the  rest  without  ])ein«4'  at  all  aware 
of  its  stnui^'th,  which,  however,  had  no  other  etl'eet  than  in 
I  MusiiiM  this  clerical  blacksmitlif  with  his  lame  hi[)  to  dance 
ill  the  most  ridiculous  manner  in  front  of  the  lumse.  The 
^ceue  atforded  a  pireat  sourc(>  of  merriment  to  all  his  family, 
except  his  old  wife,  who  Avas  very  desirous  of  ^'ettini;-  him  to 
bed,  while  he  was  no  less  anxious  that  she  should  join  him 
ill  tlie  dance.' 

Dr.  Hooker  justly  remarks  that  this  very  cii-cumstance 
is  a  convincing-  proof  lunv  unaccustomed  this  priest  was  to 
s|>irituous  liquors,  as  the  (piantity  taken  could  not  have  ex- 
ceeded a  wine-;.',lass  full. 

After  his  visit  to  the  fair,  the  peasant  sets  about  hay- 

'^   '  ■(I'livii.il  of  ;i  Tour  in  Icolainl,' p.  110. 

'    All  fill'  i-li'i-pvincn  are  liliicksmitlis,  fur  a  reason  that  will  In  stated  liei-eal'ter. 


99 


Tin:  roLAK  woni.n. 


('|(  ss 


Miiikiiij;',  wliicli  is  In  lilm  flic  ^Tfiit  l)iisin('ss  (»!'  llic  yi-.w. 
fur  lie  is  niosl  ;iii.\i(>Ms  to  secure  wiiiter-l'inMer  lor  liis  ciittli'. 
oil  wlljcli  Ills  whole  |iros|»erity  (le|ieii(ls.  'I'lie  tew  jiodilo.  s 
illHJ  llirilips  iiltoiit  tlie  si/e  of  llliirhles,  oi"  the  ('iihl)ii;;'e  iiml 
pai'sley,  whieh  he  iiiiiy  ehsmee  to  ciiltiviite,  iire  not,  worth 
nieniioiiiiii^' ;  i^rnss  is  the  chlet*,  iiiiv  the  only  |iro(liiee  of  hi> 
fii.rni,  !in<l  thut  llejiven  nmy  i^'rant  ehsir  sunshiny  (hiys  fur 
h;iy-niiil<in;4'  is  now  liis  (hilly  pniyer. 

Kvery  [tersoii  ciqtiihN,'  of  wiehliiiu-  a  scythe  or  riil<e  is 
pressed  into  the  work.  Tlie  hest  hay  is  cut  from  the  *  ti'ii!,' 
a  sort  of  padilock  comprising;'  the  lands  adjoining'  the  fiinii- 
liouse,  and  the  only  part  of  his  <^i-ounds  on  whi(di  the 
peasant  bestows  any  attention,  for  in  spite  of  the  paraiiioiini 
imp(»rtauc«>  of  his  pasture-land  he  dttes  l>ut  litlle  for  its 
improvement,  and  a  meadow  is  rarely  seen,  when*  the  u: 
or  less  nutriti(tus  herbs  are  n(»t  at  least  as  abundant  as  those 
of  a,  better  (lualitv.  The  'tun'  is  encircled  bv  a  turf  nr 
stone  wall,  and  is  seldom  more  than  ten  acres  in  extent, 
and  ;;'enerally  not  more  than  two  or  threi\  its  surface  is 
usually  a  series  of  ch»sely  ] tacked  niounds,  like  ^Taves,  ni<isl 
lUipK'asant  to  Avalk  over,  the  <4'utter,  in  some  places,  beiif^' 
two  feet  in  depth  between  the  mounds.  After  hiivinj^-  iinislieil 
■with  tlie  'tun,'  the  farmer  sulyects  to  a  process  of  cutting' 
fill  the  broken  hill-sides  and  boy-^y  undrained  swamps  tli;it 
lio  near  liis  dwelling;'.  The  Idades  of  tlio  scythes  are  vcrv 
short.  It  would  be  im[)0ssible  to  use  a  long'-bladed  scythe, 
<»win^'  to  the  inievenness  of  the  ground. 

The  cutting-  and  making  of  hay  is  carried  on,  when  the 
wcatla'r  will  permit,  thr<(Ugh  all  the  twenty-four  hours  of  tlio 
day.     When  the  hay  is  made  it  is  tied  in  Ijundles  by  c<»r(ls 


aiu 


I   tl 


long's,  an 


d    carried   away  by  p(>nies    to   the    eiirtl 
houses  prepared  for  it,  Avliich  are  similar  to,  and  adjoin  tl 


1('!1 


ill  which  the  cattle  arc  stalled. 


It 


is  a  very  curious  sin' 


K  tSO 
lit,' 


sa,ys  Mv.  Shepherd,  '  to  see  a  string  of  hay-laden  ponies 
veturniu<^  home.  Each  pony's  halter  is  made  fast  to  the 
tail  of  the  preceding  one,  and  the  little  animals  are  so  en- 
veloped in  their  burdens,  that  nothing'  but  their  hoofs  iuul 
the  connecting  njpes  are  visible,  and  they  look  as  thougli  a 
dozen  huge  haycocks,  feeling*  themscdves  sutHciently  iiuule, 
were  crawling  off  to  their  resting'-places.' 


WINTi'.U    1,1 1'l:    IN    I('KI,.\NI». 


01 


illM 
illll 


WIh'M  lln'  liarvcsl  is  liiiislHMl,  (he  liiniifr  li-ciils  liis  riiniily 
1  liilKdinTs  to  II  siiUstiiuHiil  sM|tiH'r,  coiisisliiii^-  of  imillnii, 


I  it  suii[)  of  milk  :iiitl  IImiu';  uimI  iiltlioiii^li  tlio  sn-iuiis  iiii*] 
tai'itiini  li'i'liiiitlcr  Ims  [u'vliiip.s  of  all  iiil'Ii  the  Ifiist  iiistf  for 
iiHiric  jiiiil  (liiiifiii^-,  yet  llicst'  simpif  ft-iists  iivi'  tlistiiiy'iiislinl 
li\  ;i  pliK'itl  sri't'iiity,  no  less  [ili'iiHiiiy  tliiiii  the  i  in  ire  hoist  ( Tons 


III 


,,',> 


iitli  ilis|iliiy('<l  ill  a  suutlicni  \iiita 

Aliiinsi   all   lalxiiir  out   ol*  doors  now  erases  for  tlu' rest  of 

,■   \c;ir.     A    lliirK'    niiintlt'   of  snow  soon  covers   inoiiiitain 


III! 


1  viile.  meadow  and  moor;  with  every  retiirnin;;'  day,  the 
sun  [lavs  the  eold  earth  a  deereasiii;^'  visit,  until  liiially  he 
Iiiirdly  ai>[>ears  ahove  the  liori/oii  at  no<»n,  the  wintry  storm 
liowls  over  the  \\!iste,  and  for  months  the  life  of  tlie  feelander 
is  ednlined  to  his  hut,  wlii'di  fre([Uently  is  hut  a  low  dej^roes 
hctter  than  that  of  the  lilthy  La[>. 

Its  lower  [lart  is  built  of  rude  stones  to  ahoiit  the  hei<,dit 
(if  four  feet,  and  bdweeii  ea<'h  row  layi'rs  of  turf  are  jtlaced 
with  ^reat  re^^'ularity  to  serve  instead  of  mortar,  and  ker|» 
(lilt  the  Avind.  A  r(»of  of  siieh  wood  as  can  l)e  procured 
Vests  upon  tlu'se  walls,  and  is  covered  with  turf  uiid  sods. 
Oil  one  side  (yeuerally  faciuL;'  the  south)  are  several  «4-al)le- 


ClKlS 


am 


I    d< 


oors,    eacii    snrmonn 


ti'd 


ill 


witli    a    Aveaihereoc 


th 


•k. 


These  are  the  entrances  to  the  dwellim;'-house  proi»er,  to  the 
smithy,  store-room,  oow-slied,  Ae.  A  lonj^'  narrow  passa<4"e, 
(lark  as  pitch,  and  re(l(ilent  of  unsavouiy  odours,  leads  to 
the  several  apartments,  -wliicli  are  si'parate<l  from  each  other 
hy  thick  walls  of  turf,  eaeh  haviiii:'  also  its  own  roof,  so  that 
till'  peasant's  dweilin<;'  is  in  fa<-t  a  coiii^lomeratiou  of  low 
huts,  Avhich  sonu'tinu's  reeoivo  their  li^ht  throiii^h  small 
\viii(htws  in  the  front,  but  more  fretjuently  tluvui^'h  holes  iii 
the  roof,  covered  with  a  piece  of  ^lass  or  skin.  The  lioors 
are  of  stamped  earth  ;  the  hearth  is  made  of  a  few  stones 
chuiisily  piled  together,  a  cask  or  barrel,  with  the  two  ends 
knocked  out,  answers  the  purpose  of  a  chimney,  or  else  the 
f^iiioke  is  allowed  to  escape  thron^^h  a  mere  hole  in  the  roof. 
The  thick  turf  walls,  the  dirty  tloor,  the  persomil  unclean- 
liucss  of  the  inhabitants,  all  contribute  to  the  p<»llution  of 
till'  atmosphere.  No  })ieco  of  furniture  seems  ever  to  have 
lucii  cleaned,  since  it  was  lirst  put  into  nse ;  all  is  discjrder 
iuiil  confusi«>ii.     Ventilation    is   utterly  impossible    and  the 


9: 


TFii:  I'oi-AiJ   \V()|;m) 


I':      > 


wlidlc  fiiiiiily,  tVcqiu'iitly  roiisistint;  of  l^v^'nty  [mtsohs  ,,i 
more,  sicop  in  tlio  saiiio  dorinitory,  iis  avi-II  ms  any  sir;iiiL;'.i , 
who  iiiiiy  liiippiMi  to  drop  in.  On  either  side  of  tliis  ii[)!irt- 
Diciit  iive  bunks  three  or  four  feet  in  width,  on  whieh  the 
sleepers  ranjjje  themselves. 

Hnch  iire  in  ;j^eneralthe  dwellin^-s  of  the  fiirmers  and  eleri-v. 
for  hut  very  few  of  the  more  wealthy  inhabitants  live  in  iiny 
way  iiecordiiiLT  to  oin*  ju^tions  of  comfort,  while  the  e(»1s  of 
the  poor  fisherman  arc  so  wretched  that  one  can  hanllv 
believe  them  to  be  tenanted  b}-  human  beinr^s. 

The  farmhouses  are  frequently  isolated,  and,  on  account  of 
their  ;:;Tass-covered  roofs  and  their  low  construction,  are  imi 
easily  distinguished  from  the  neiij,'hbourin<jf  pasture-L^rouiids: 
whei'e  four  or  iive  of  them  are  con<:>'reg"ated  in  a  g'rassy  plain, 
they  are  di^^-nified  with  the  name  of  a  villaLTO,  and  becomi' 
the  residence  of  a  Hrepstior,  or  parish-constable. 

Then  also  a  church  is  seldom  wanting-,  which  however  is 
distill j^uished  from  the  low  huts  around  merely  by  the  cross 
planted  on  its  roof.  An  Icelandic  house  of  prayer  is  g-enevally 
from  eig'ht  to  ten  feet  wide,  and  from  ei<j^hte(Mi  to  twenty-l'tnir 
iouL;-,  ))ut  of  this  about  eii>-ht  feet  are  devoted  to  the  alhii'. 
which  is  divided  off  by  a  partition  stretchin<^"  across  tin- 
church,  and  ajji'ainst  which  stands  the  pulpit.  A  small  wooden 
chest  or  cupboard,  placed  at  the  en<l  of  the  building',  betwooii 
two  very  small  scpuire  windows  n<'t  lari;'er  than  a  comiunii 
sized  pane  of  j^lass,  constitutes  the  communion-table,  ov 
which  is  ^ent'ralh  a  miserable  reitresentation  of  the  Lord 
8up})er  painted  on  wood.  The  heij^ht  (»f  the  walls,  avI 
are  wainscoted,  is  about  six  feel,  and  from  them  laraewood 
beams   stretch  across  from  side    to   side.     On   th 


(M' 


llril 
I'll 


ese 


)eiU!is 


are  placed  iu  i^reat  disorder  a  quantity  of  old  bildes,  psa.ltcis, 
and  frai^'iueuts  of  dirty  mannscri[its.  The  interior  of  thy 
I'oof,  the  rafters  of  Avhich  rest  on  the  walls,  is  also  lined  wifli 
wood.  On  the  ri^dit  of  the  <lo(»r,  under  which  cnie  is  obli^vd 
to  stoop  considerably  (ui  enterin;.>',  is  suspend(Hl  a  bell,  lariji' 
enonj4'h  to  malce  an  intolerable  noise  in  so  small  a  space.  A 
few  benches  on  each  side  the  aisle,  so  crowded  too-etlier  :is 
almost  to  touch  one  anotlier,  and  alfordin^-  accommodation 
to  thirty  ov  foity  j)ers(>ns  v.'hen  squeezed  very  ti;_;lit.  Jcnvi' 
room  foj'  a  narrmv  ])assa<Ji'e. 


CI-KKICAI.    ni.ArKSMITlIS. 


93 


Tlicsc  clmivhcs,  besides  tlicir  pi'i>i>in'  use,  are  tilso  made  to 
;iii>\ver  the  purposo  of  the  ciiravanseniis  oi'  tlie  East,  by 
■.itlni'iliiiu'  a  iii^'lit's  IcHl^'iiii;-  to  I'oreij^'U  tourists.  Tbey  are 
iii.l.'.'d  iii'itlier  free  from  dirt,  nor  from  l)ad  smells  ;  but  the 
-itr.iiiu'i'r  is  still  far  better  oif  than  in  tlu'  intolerable  atmo- 
sphere cf  ii  ]»easant"s  hut. 

TIk'  poverty  of  the  eler^-y  corresponds  with  the  meanness 
,p|'  their  ehm-ches.  The  best  living-  in  the  island  is  that  ol* 
|!reide"-l]u]stadr,  Avhere  th<'  nominal  sti[)t'nd  ameiints  to  160 
sjiecie  thilhirs,  or  abuu.t  lU/.  a  year;  and  Mr.  llellaml  states 
that  the  a\eran"e  living\s  do  not  amount  to  more  than  lO/. 
lur  each  parish  in  the  island.  The  elery-ymen  nnist  therefore 
ih|irii(l  almost  entirely  for  subsistence  on  their  n^-hibe  land, 
a;id  a  small  pittance  to  Avhieh  they  are  entitled  for  the  few 
baptisms,  marriages,  and  funerals  that  occur  among'  their 
jiarisliidners.  The  bishop  himself  has  oidy  2000  ri:c-d(dlars, 
ir  2<i(i/.  a  year,  a  miserable  pittance  to  maki.'  a  decent  ap- 
[•earance,  and  to  exercise  hospitality  to  the  clergy  who  visit 
licykjavik  from  distant  parts. 

It  cannot  bt>  wimdered  at  that  pastors,  thus  miserably  paid, 
are  generally  obliged  to  perform  the  hardest  work  of  day 
!al)oarers  to  preserve  their  families  Irom  starving,  and  that 
their  extenral  appearance  corresponds  less  with  the  dignity 
(it  llulr  ottice  than  with  their  penury.  Besides  hay-malving- 
ami  tending  the  cattle,  they  may  be  frequently  seen  leading  a 
trail)  ef  jiack-hovses  from  a  hshing  station  to  their  distant 
Iiut.  They  are  all  blacksmiths  also  from  necessity,  and  the 
best  sheers  of  horses  on  the  island.  The  feet  of  an  Iceland 
lii'ise  would  be  cut  to  pieces  over  the  sharp  rock  and  lava  if 
!!"(  well  shod.  The  great  resort  of  the  peasantry  is  the  chin'ch, 
;tiiil  >hould  any  of  the  numerons  horses  have  lost  a  shoe,  or 
lii'  likely  to  do  so,  the  priest  puts  on  his  apron,  lig-hts  his 
little  charcoal  fire  i)i  his  smithy  (one  of  which  is  always 
attached  to  every  parsonage),  and  sets  the  animal  on  his 
legs  again.  The  task  of  getting  the  necessary  charcoal  is 
U"t  the  least  of  liis  labours,  for  whatever  the  distance  may 
h''  tip  the  nearest  thicket  of  dwarf-birch,  he  must  g'o  thither 
'"burn  th(>  Wood,  and  to  briu«>"  it  honu*  when  charred  across 


iiorse 


back.      His    1 


mt 


scarct-lv    better   than    that 


04 


TIIK    I'OLAU    WOULD. 


(> 


f    tl 


I',.'    IIK'IU 


ic'st  lislioriiiiin ;    a   bL'd,  a  riekcty   table,  a    1 


I'W 


•liiiirs,  and  a  cliost  or  two,  jiiv  iill  liis  fiiriiitur« 


Tl 


us   IS.  ;|.s 


on  a*  !iw 


lu'  ] 


ives. 


tlio  eou(lili(.»n  of  the  Ict'lamlio  cb'i-yv  n 


mil, 


iin<l  learninti',  virtuo,  tind  even  o-cnius  iire  but  too  iVeijUfiillv 
buried  under  this  squalid  poverty. 

liut  tew  of  niv  readers  have  probably  ever  heard  of  llic 
poet  Jon  Tliorlakson,  but  Avho  can  withhohl  the  tribute  nf 
his  admiration  fr(»in  tlie  poor  priest  of  JJaeka,  who  wiih  ;i 
iixed  income  of  less  than  (!/.  a  year,  and  eonih-mned  to  nil 
the  drudu'erv  which  T  have  described,  linished  at  sevriitv 
years  of  ai>e  a  translation  of  jVIilton's  '  Paradis(^  Lost,' 
liaA'in<4'  pri'viously  translated  Pope's  '  Essay  <»n  IMan.' 

Three  of  the  lii'st  Ijooks  oidy  of  the  'Paradise  Lost'  wnv 
]>rinted  by  the   Icelandic  Literary  Society,  when  it  wa 
sitlveil  in  171M),  and  to  print  the  rest  at  liis  own  expcn> 


s  ui- 


\V;|^ 


.t 


ot  course  impossible 


>iblc 


In  a  few  Iccdandic  verses,  Thorlak- 


nil 


touchiiiLily  alludes  to  his  penury: — 'Ever  since  I  came  iiitu 
this  world,  I  have  l)een  wedded  to  Poverty,  Avho  lias  imu 
hu^'u'ed  me  to  her  bosom  these  seventy  winters,  all  l>nt  i\\*>: 
and  whether  we  shall  ever  be  separated  luM'e  below,  is  oiilv 
known  to  Him  who  pdned  lis  too'ether.' 

As  if  Provid(Mice  had  intended  to  teach  the  old  man 


we  niust  h 


op( 


to  the  last,  he  soon  after  received  tlie  n 


I  III! 


llrX- 


pected  visit  of  jNlr.  lli.'iiderson,  an  aL;ent  of  the  IJritisl 


Foreii'Mi  l>i])!e  S«K'ietv,  Avho  thus  rehites  his  iiiterv 


K'W, 


Like  most  of  his  l>rethren,  at  this  season  of  the  vea 


I  aii'l 


r,  AW 


ftund  him  iii  lli"  meadow  assisting  his  people  in  hay-inakiiiu' 
On  hearing;'  of  our  arrival,  he  nuKh/"  all  the  haste  lii'iii.' 
Avhich  his  au'e  and  inllrmity  would  allow,  and  biddinu'  ii 
welccnie  to  his  lowly  abode,  ushered  us  into  the  hiniiM' 
ajnirtnieiit  wlu're  lie  translated  my  countrvmen  into  Ice 
laiiilir.  Tlh'  door  is  not  (piite  four  feet  in  heij^-ht,  and  lii' 
I'oom  may  be  about  eiulit  feet  in  len;^'th  by  tdx  in  brcailtli 
At  the  inner  end  is  the  jioet's  bt.-d,  and  close  to  the  Aokt 
over  an'ainst  a  small  window,  not  exceeding  two  feet  S((iKin' 
is  a  ta1>l(^  where  he  c(niimits  to  jiaju'r  tin'  effusions  of  lii' 
Muse.  On  mv  tellinLi'  him  that  my  couiitrvnn'ii  woult 
have  foTa'iven  me,  nor  could  f  have  for^'iven  myself,  IkmI  I 
passed  throu^-h  this  part  t>f  the  isla:ul  without  [>ayiny'  liiiii:! 
visit,  he  re[ilied  that  the  translation  of  INliltou  had  yicMol 


IKU 


TIIK    roKT    OF    1('KI,.\.\1). 


!».j 


r,  v<' 

.     \n- 

1.1    tli.' 

■;nlt!i 

(|ii;iri'. 
(if  lii-^ 
iidt 


i 


: 


Mm  iiiaiiv  ii  ]il('!i^aiit  liuiir,  and  often  L;'ivc'u  liiiu  oi.-i'nsiou  to 
t!ii:!k  of  Kii^'liiiul.'" 

'\"\i\<  visit  w,!-;  fiillowcil  l»_v  ai^rc(>ab]o  coiisrMjUoiU'OS  foi*  tli(» 
\iiii'ralili'  liard.  Tlic  Literary  Fund  soon  afterwai'ds  sent 
liiiii  a  present  of  o(>/.,  a  modest  sum  Mce<.)rdinn'  to  our  id<'as, 
l>!if  a  mini'  of  wealth  in  tlie  eyes  of  tli''  poor  Jcelandie  jtriest. 
ll!>  lifi'.  ]i<i\vevt'r,  Avas  now  near  its  elose,  as  it  is  stated  in  a 
slu'it  view  'HI'  llio  Ori^•in,  I'ronTess,  ami  <>pe]-ations  of  tlu; 
^M).-irt\/ <lated  ^NFareli  •"h-d,  ls-_M,tliat  'tlie  poet  of  Iceland 
i>  niiw  in  liis  ;4'rave;  l»nt  it  is  satisfael(»i"y  to  know  tliat  tlu3 
iitl  iition.  in  this  instanee,  of  a  foreiLi'u  and  riunote  society 
\<i  his  L;'ains  and  his  fortunes  Avas  hi;.:'hly  Lia-atifyiuLi'  to  his 
r.  riiiiM's,  and  (/tntrihutcd  nnt  innnaterially  to  the  eonifort  of 
iii-^  <()ii(dudiny"  days.' 

I!,'  \\T(ito  a  letter  in  very  ^deyant  Latin,  oxpressiiiii"  his 
li'Mrtfclt  Li'ratitudo  j  »r  the  kindness  and  L;'enerosity  of  the 
Society,  so  aeeordant  with  the  character  of  the  British  na- 
li:>ii.  and  accompanied  it  Avith  a  M8.  copy  of  his  translation. 
Till'  latter  was  first  printed  in  Iceland  in  li^iis,  l)nt  his  own 
eiiuinal  poems  ilid  iu»t  appear  before  If^  12. 

Tlie  school    Avhere  most  of   the    Icelandic    clerii'ynien,   so 

I !■  and  yet  e-onerally  so  r(>spectal»le  in   tlu'Ii*  poNcrty,  art; 

e.'uriiti'd,  is  tiiat  of  Keylvjavilc.  as  few  only  enjuy  sti[>eiids 
wliich  (  nahle  theni  to  study  at  ('('penhau'en.  Tl'.ere  they 
live  several  vears  under  a  milder  sl<y,  they  Iiecome  acijua  inted 
vvi'.h  llie  >]ilend(iur  of  a  lai'ii'e  ca]»ital,  and  thus  it  miuht  he 
^.i|ipMM'il  Ihat  the  idea  of  returning'  tn  the  dr<'ary  wastes  of 
liieir  (wn  lam!  must  he  intolerable.  Yet  this  is  their  ardent 
tl''^':!e.  ;i:i(!.  like  Ijauislied  exiles,  they  lonu-  Inr  iheir  behived 
I  ■■■laml.  whei-e  jaivations  ;ind  ])enury  a\vait  thiin. 

Ill  lie  ('hi'islian  count  iw,  perhajis  wil  h  the  snh' .-xci-jit  ion 
'I'  l-i['laiid.  are  the  cler^-y  so  ]ioor  as  in  Iceland,  but  in  none; 
I'l  they  exert  a  more'  l.HUU'licial  iiitluence. 

Though  the  island  has  but  the  oiie  imMic  ;i-1|.  dj  at  IJcykj;!- 
\  k.  yet  perhaps  in  no  country  is  elementary  edncatiou  more 
'_: 'iiendly  diiluseil.  Lvery  mother  teaches  her  childi'eu  t(» 
I'  ad  and  write,  and  the  [leasaiit,  after  proNidin^'  foi^  the  wants 
el'  1 1  is  fandly  Ity  the  labour  of  his  ha  mis,  loses  no  o[ijiort  unit  y, 
ill   his  leisiu't'   honrs,  of  incnlcat  iiiLi'   a    soniid   nioralii\-.      Ju 

*   Ilc!i.ltr-iii">  • 'i'ravt !-  ill  In'l.unl,'  jMs. 


06 


tin:  r(>i,Ai{  \V(»i{i,i>. 


these  piuiscwortliy  (.'florts  the  parents  are  supported  In-  ila- 
pastor. 

lie  who,  jud^'hig-  from  the  sordid  condition  of  an  leehuuhc 
hut,  mi^i'lit  inia^'inc  its  inhabitants  to  l)e  no  Ijrtter  tlian 
savagvs,  Avonkl  so<»n  chani^e  his  opinion  were  he  introduced 
on  a  Avinter  L'venin^"  into  the  low  ill-ventilated  room  whtrc 
the  family  of  a  peasant  or  a  small  landholder  is  assembled, 
Vainl}'  would  he  seek  a  sin^'le  idler  in  the  Avhole  compiiiiy, 
The  wonu'ii  and  g-irls  sj^in  or  knit ;  the  men  and  boys  iirc  ;ill 
busy  mending-  their  atj;Tieultural  implements  and  household 
utensils,  or  else  ehisellinj^-  or  cutting'  Avith  admirable  sldll 
ornaments  or  snuff  boxes  in  silver,  ivory,  or  wood.  By  the 
dubious  lii^'ht  of  a  tallow  lamp,  just  making-  obscurity  Aisiljle, 
sits  one  of  the  fanuly  who  reads  with  a  loud  voice  an  old 
'  saga  '  or  chronicle,  or  maybe  the  newest  number  of  tlic 
'  Northuri'ari,'  an  Iceland  literary  almanack,  published  dmiiig 
the  hist  few  years  by  Mr.  Gisle  Brinjulfsson.  Sometiiacs 
poems  or  whoL}  sagas  are  repeated  from  n)eniory,  and  there 
are  even  itinerant  story-tellers  who,  like  the  troubadoiu's  and 
trouveres  of  the  middle  ages,  Avander  from  one  farm  to 
anothcj',  and  thus  giiin  a  scanty  livelihood.  In  this  manner 
the  deeds  of  the  ancient  Icelanders  remain  fixed  in  tlio 
memory  t>f  their  descendants,  and  Snorre  >Sturleson,  Siinunul, 
Frodi,  and  Eric  Rauda  are  unfurgotten.  Nine  centuries  luive 
elapsed  ;  but  every  Icelander  still  knoAvs  the  mimes  of  the 
proud  yarls  Avho  tirst  peopled  the  fiords  of  the  island  ;  and  tlic 
exphdts  of  the  brave  viivings  Avho  spread  terror  and  desela- 
tion  along-  all  the  coasts  of  Europe  still  fdi  the  hearts  ef 
the  peaceful  islanders  of  our  days  with  a  g-loAV  of  patriotic 
pride. 

Where  education  is  so  general,  one  may  miturally  expcit 
to  find  a  hig-h  cleg-ree  of  intellectual  cultivation  among  tlie 
clergy,  the  public  functionaries,  and  the  Ave>altliier  part  et 
the  population.  Their  classical  knowledge  is  on(.'  of  the  lir.-^t 
things  that  strike  the  stranger  Avith  astt)nislnuent.  He  soes 
men  whose  appearance  too  frequently  denotes  an  abjtx't 
poverty  conversant  with  the  g-reat  authors  of  anti(piity,  and 
keenly  alive  to  their  beauties.  Travelling-  to  the  Geysirs  he 
is  not  Seldom  accosted  in  Latin  by  his  gvude,  and  stoppnii:' 
at  a  rarui.  his  host  greets  him  in  the  same  language. 


CI.KUK'AF-    HnUDITIOX, 


97 


r  liiivc  spooially  iiiuiit'd  Jon  'IMuu'liiksoii.  but  Toclimd  lias 
]i)Miliiit'(l  iiml  still  ])r(»(luc('S  iniiiiy  other  iiicii  who,  without 
till'  lio]ii»  ol'  any  other  reward  hut  tliat  whieh  i»i-oooeds  from 
i|ie  pure  |(i\-e  of  hteraiui'e,  devote  their  days  and  iiin'ht.s  to 
hilioriniis  studies,  and  live  with  Vir^'il  and  Ifoincr  under  tlio 
sunny  skies  of  Italy  and  (Jreeee.  In  the  si  ndy  of  the  modern 
laii'ji'uaLi'cs.  the  Icelanders  ai'e  as  far  advanced  as  ciiii  he 
(■\|M'rt,'(l  IVom  llieir  limited  intercourse  with  the  rest  of  the 
w.ii'M. 

Tlie  |]n;^Iish  lanynaj^'e,  in  which  tJiey  find  so  many  words 
mI' their  own  and  so  many  borrowed  from  the  Latin,  is  (Md- 
tivakd  liy  many  of  the  clero-y.  The  (lorman  ihoy  find  still 
ni.>re  easy,  and  as  iill  the  Scandinavian  lanj^'naifcs  proceed 
IV. 'Ui  thi^  same  root,  thoy  have  no  ditfu-ulty  in  nndorstandine" 
tlie  Danish  and  the  Norwo<4'ian  tong-uos.  Of  all  tho  modern 
liiiu'uaLi'es  or  dialects  whicdi  have  sprnne-  frora  the  ancient 
Noise,  spoheii  a  thousand  years  a;:>'0,  all  over  Denmark,  Swe- 
licn.  and  Norway,  none  has  underp;one  fewer  (diane-es  than  the 
jirjiindic.  Tn  the  sea-ports  it  is  mixed  up  with  many  Danish 
\\i.vi\<  and  phrases,  hut  in  the  inttn-ior  of  the  island  it  is  still 
i  il:cii  as  it  was  in  the  tilings  of  lnt,^olfr  and  Kric  the  IJed,  and 
!i  ihewliole  island  there  is  no  iisherman  or  day  lahoui'er 
•\]\n  (Idi'.s  not  perftM'tly  understand  the  oldest  Avritine's. 

il  ;iiay  easily  he  imap,'ined  that  amono'  a  people  so  fond  of 
'ilcralure,  hooks  must  T)e  in  ^'reat  request.  Too  poor  to  l>e 
'  'ii-taiilly  iiicreasin):>'  their  sunill  collecti<>ns  of  modern  ])ul)- 
hV;iii(»ns  or  of  old  '  sa^'as  '  or  chronicles  by  new  acfjuisitions. 
"lie  assists  the  (tther.  When  the  ]ieasant  o-oes  on  Sundavs 
te  church,  he  takes  a,  few  \i>liimes  v.dtli  him,  ready  jo  lend 
liis  incisures  to  his  neiy'hhours,  and,  on  his  jiarl,  selecis  from 
MinMiL;"  those  wlii(di  they  have  hronn'ht  for  the  same  [)urpose, 
\\  li<ii  he  is  particularly  ]ilease<l  with  a  worlc.  he  has  it  coj>ied 
I'  h<>m(\  and  it  may  be  hen^  remarked  that  the  Tcelandei-s 
■  ii<'  tVequeiitly  most  <\Kcellent  calio-raphists. 

The  foundation  of  a  pul)lic  library  at  lieykjavik  in  lS21,  at 
I  lie  iiistin"ation  of  the  learned  Professor  ]?.afii  of  (.V»penha<:>'en, 
'•v;is  a  ^'reat  boon  to  the  peo])1e.  It  is  saltl  to  contain  about 
I-J»iio  volumes,  which  are  Icept  un<ler  the  roof  of  tlie 
'  ''licdral.  Dooks  are  freely  lent  for  mouths,  or  even  f(U"  a 
^'li"Ie   year,   to  the   inhabitants  oi'  rtMiiote   districts.      This 

II 


I'b 


TIIK    rOLAlt    WORLll. 


liberality  is,  of  ocmrso,  attemlcd  with  soinr  nu'onveiiifiu c.  Imt 
it  luiH  llio  inostininblo  advaiitai^e  of  rondorin;^'  a  iininb<  r  ol 
^ood  works  aeeossiblo  to  numerous  families  too  poor  to  |iiir- 
cliaso  til  em. 

Another  excellent  institution  is  the  New  Fcelandic  Literjin 
Society  founded  in  1 810.  It  has  two  seats,  one  in  CopenlinL^vn 
the  other  in  Reykjavik,  and  its  chief  object  isthe  publiciitinii 
of  useful  works  in  the  laufvuao-e  of  the  country.  Besides  iin 
animal  g-rantof  100  specie  dollars  (217.)  awarded  to  it  by  tin 
Danish  government,  its  income  is  confined  to  the  yearly  con- 
tributions of  its  members,"^"  and  with  this  scanty  means  it 
has  already  published  many  excellent  Avorks. 

Thouo-li  remote  from  the  busy  scenes  of  the  world,  Ict'lninl 
has  three  newspapers,  the  Thyodtholfr  and  th«^  Tslendiii^ur. 
Avhich  appear  at  Reykjavik,  and  the  Northri,  which  is  jml  - 
lished  at  Akreyri,  on  the  borders  of  the  Polar  Ocean.  Tlu 
Tslending-ur  is  said  to  contain  many  excellent  articles,  1)nt  it 
would  sorely  task  the  patience  of  those  who  are  accustnincl 
to  the  regidar  enjoyment  of  the  'Times  '  at  breakfast;  us  ii 
sometimes  appears  but  once  in  three  weeks,  and  then  again. 
as  if  to  make  up  for  lost  time,  twice  in  eight  days. 

In  spite  of  their  ill-ventilated  dwellings  and  the  hardslii-i^ 
entailed  upon  tliem  by  the  severity  of  tlie  climate,  the  Ice- 
landers frequently  attain  a  good  old  age.  Of  the  2.<'l!i 
persons  who  died  in  185S,  2r>  had  passed  the  age  of  ninety. 
and  of  these  20  belonged  to  the  fair  sex.  The  mortalil} 
among  the  children  is,  however,  very  considerable ;  OOo,  ci 
nearly  one-half  of  the  entire  number  having  died  Ijctoiv 
the  age  of  five  in  the  year  above  mentioned.  Cutan(^(m> 
affections  are  very  common  among  Icelniuhu'S,  as  may  easily 
bo  supposed  from  their  liiordid  woollen  apparel,  and  the  uii- 
0*  mil  less  of  their  huts;  and  the  northern  leprosy,  ov 
'  l\V'ir.i/  is  constantly  seeking  out  its  victims  among  tlieiii. 
Tlily  (\\yd'lh\\  disease,  which  is  also  found  among  the  fisher- 
men in  iSl'orway,  in  Gj*eo7iland,  in  the  Faoroes,  in  Lapland,  ami 
in  short  wherever  the  same  mode  of  life  exists,  bea'ins  with  ;i 
swelling  of  the  hands  and  feet.    The  l\air  falls  off;  the  senses 

*  Their  number  in  18G0  was  991.  During  lii.s  Vdjago  to  Iceland  in  18.50 PriiW' 
N,\lioloon  was  namoil  honomry  prcsiilont,  a  distinction  ho  sliarcs  witii  tlio  l>i>I'; 
of  Reykjavik.     Amons  the  16  houorary  ni.'nilier.s  1  find  the  name  of  J^nrd  Diitfdi:. 


Ill  ■(•dill 


TnAVKF.M.V(i    IX    ICKLANO. 


f!» 


Tl 


Itiidiiif  obtuso.  Tumours  iippciir  on  tlio  arms  aiid  loy;'s,  ami 
Mil  ilic  t'iici',  ^vlli('ll  soon  los.'s  the  semblanco  of  liumanitj. 
Scvrrt'  pains  slioot  tlirou^^li  l!i<'  joints,  an  ('rn])fion  eovcrs 
tlif  wliolt'  Ixxly,  an<l  (inally  clianocs  into  open  sores,  cndino- 
uiili  death.  He  wliom  tli<'  leprosy  has  '>nee  attacked  is 
(In, tilled,  for  it  moidcs  all  the  I'ft'orts  of  medieal  art.  For- 
tunately the  vieiinis  <if  this  slioekiu^'  eom]>laini  are  raiher 
nhjt'cts  of  pity  than  of  <lisj4'ust,  and  as  it  is  not  supj»ose<l  to 
111'  <'onta^'ions,  they  are  not  so  ernelly  forsaken  by  their  rehi- 
tii'iis  as  tlieir  fellow-snft'erorB  in  the  East.  In  the  hntof  the 
piiest  of  Thino-valla,  INIarmier  saw  a  lopor  busy  j^rindino-  eorn. 
Si'iiK'  of  the  poorest  and  most  helpless  of  thes«^  unfortunate 
creatures  find  a  refu^-e  in  four  small  Jiospitals,  where  they 
;iiv  provided  for  at  the  pnbli(3  expense. 

Sinee  a  rei^uhir  steam-boat  comniunioation  has  been 
opined  between  Iceland,  Denmark,  and  8(.*otland,  the  number 
lit' tourists  desirous  of  viewing-  the  matchless  natural  wonders 
lit'  tlie  island  has  considerably  increased.  But  travelliny-  in 
till'  island  itself  is  still  attended  with  considerable  difHculties 
a. Ill  no  trifliuf,'  expense,  to  say  nothin;:^'  of  the  want  of  all 
ciiiii'orts,  so  that  most  of  its  visitors  are  content  with  a  trip 
*'•  'riiin*;'valla  and  the  Geysir,  which  are  but  a  couple  of 
ila\  s'  jiturney  from  Reykjavik,  and  very  few,  like  Mr.  Hf)lland, 
iiiaKi-  tlie  entire  circnit  of  the  island,  or,  like  Mr.  Sh<'pherd, 
pliniLie  into  the  hirra  inanjintii  of  its  north-western  ])eninsula. 
Till'  onlv  mode  of  travelling'  is  on  horseback,  as  there  are  no 
rna'is  and  therefore  no  carriapfes  in  Iceland.  The  distances 
i 'I 'tween  the  places  are  too  o^reat,  the  rivers  are  too  furious, 
and  the  boy's  too  extensive  to  allow  of  a  walkinu;-  ionr  bei)i<;' 
liiiide.  Even  the  tourist  Avitli  the  most  niodt^st  pr(4<'nsions  re- 
'piii'i's  at  least  two  riding  horses  for  himself,  two  fn  tr  his  o-nido, 
;iiid  two  packhorses,  and  when  a  larij^er  comjtany  travcds,  it 
iilways  forms  a  cavalcade  of  from  twenty  to  thirty  horses,  tied 
lii'ad  to  tail,  the  chief  i^'uide  mounted  on  the  first  and  leading- 
'ill'  string',  the  other  accelerating*  its  motions  by  o-t'sticula- 

'n,  sundry  oaths,  and  the  timely  a,j>plication  of  the  whip. 

uii'tred 


\v 


T!n'  way,  or  the  path,  lies  either  over  beds  of  lava,  so  r 
tliat  the  horses  are  allowed  to  pick  their  way,  or  over  Intn'^'y 
'iionnd  where  it  is  eqnaHy  necessary  to  avoid  those  places  into 
^vliicli  the  animals  mio'ht  sink  n]>  to  their  belly,  but  which, 

H  2 


100 


Tin:  \'()\A\l    WOUM>. 


uIhmi  left  t(»  tlo'insrhcs,  ilicy  oi't'  rciinii'lxiiltly  sldllul  in 
tlclcclin;^'.  U'iili  llic  solitiiry  cxocption  of  o  few  |»I;iiik> 
i  liro'vii  ii<T<»ss  the  IJi'iiri-.i,  uihI  a  l\in<l  ot'swiiij;'  l))'i<I;4o,  or  /•/"//■. 
(MOitrivod  for  pas.siii;^-  the  riii)i(l  Jiikulsii,  there  are  no  bridi^cs 
over  the  rivers,  so  llial  the  only  way  io  <4'et  across  is  to  ride 
tliroii<:'h  thi'iu — a.  I'eat  whieli,  eoiisith'riiiL!-  tlie  usual  vehnih 
ol'  their  current,  is  not  sehhnu  attended  witli  consideralilr 
(hin^-er,  as  will  l)e  seen  l>y  the  t'oll(»win<^'  uecount  of  thf 
crossiuL!' of  the  Skeidara  l>v  ^Iv.  Holland.^'" 

'Our  j^aiide,'  says  this  intre])id  traveller,  '  uri^vd  on  liiv 
horse  thnmi^h  the  stream,  and   h-d  the  way  t(»wards  the  miil 


Klatr. 


channel.  \\v  foUowed  in  his  wake,  and  soon  were  all  stein- 
]nin<j;- the  iiupetuous  and  s.vollen  torrent.  Tn  the  course  of 
our  journey  Ave  had  before  this  crossed  a  p,'Ood  many  rivrr.x 
more  or  less  deep,  but  all  oi"  them  had  been  mere  chiM- 
play  compared  to  that  whidi  we  wore  now  fordinj^'.  Tli»' 
aui^ry  water  rose  hi^h  aLi'ainst  our  horses'  sides,  at  tiiiiis 
ahoost  comin|ji'  over  the  tops  of  their  shoulders.  The  s[ir:iy 
from  their  broken  crests  was  daslie<l  n]>  into  our  faces.  Tin' 
stream  Avas  soswitt  that  it  was  impossible  to  follow  the  imli- 
vidual  waves  as  they  rushed  past  us,  and  it  almost  made  us 
di/zy  to  look  down  at  it.  Now,  if  ever,  is  the  time  for  linn 
hand  or  rein,  sure  seat,  ami  steady  eye;  not  only  is  the  strciim 
so  stron*>-,  but  the  bottom  is  foil  of  ]arj:>"e  stones,  that  tin' 
horse  cannot  see  thvou<4h  the  murky  waters  ;  if  ho  shouM 
fall,  the  torrent  will  swee]»  you  down  to  the  S(.'a — its  wliiti' 
breakers  are  plaiidy  visil)le  as  they  run  aloni;'  the  shore  at 
s<nrcely  a  mile's  distance,  and  they  lap  the  bea(di  as  if  tln'V 


u!,;di 


\\"i 


1','mIs.  I'm^vs 


Ch 


ri»|{l>IN(;    A    TOUKK.NT. 


101 


u;iitf({  fnr  llii'ir  [^Vi'V.  Il!i[t[iily,  they  will  bo  dis:ip[K>iiil(Ml. 
SwiMiiuiii^  would  be  of*  ii«»  use,  but  \\u  IcclinMlic  wattT-liorso 
>:'Mi.iii  niiikt's  ii  blunder  or  a  false  ste]).  Not  the  least  oftlie 
ri>k->  \vc  iMU  in  eru.ssin<>'  the  Skeiilara,  wiis  from  the  masses 
<.f  i(  I'  earvied  »h)\vn  by  the  stream  from  the  JiUcull,  manv  ol' 
tlii'iii  ljcin<4"  liirp'  eiiouj^'h  to  knock  ii  horse  ovt'r. 

*  l'uiiun;itely  we  found  much  less  ice  in  the  e(>ntre  liiid 
^v.irtc>t  |i;irl  oftlie  river,  where.'  we  werciible  t<t  see  iiiid  ii  void 
il,  than  in  the  si<le  ehiinncjs.  lb>w  the  hoises  were  iible  to 
>taiiil  a^-ainst  sueh  a  stream  was  marvellous;  they  0(nild  not 
i\>>  so  unless  they  were  constantly  in  the  habit  of  cros>inij,- 
swift  I'ivers.  The  icelaiider.s  wlio  live  in  this  pi'.vt  of  the 
i-!aiil  keen  horsi>s  known  for  their  (lUiilities  in  fordin*;' 
dilliiiilt  r!\i-i's,  and  they  ]iever  vi'uture  to  cross  a  danL;"ei'ons 
str^Miii  utdess  mounted  on  a  tried  water-horse.  The  action 
'i|  the  Icelandic  horses  when  ciMssin^"  a  sv.ift  river  is  \fry 
jieriiiiai'.  They  leaii  all  their  wein'hl  a^'ainst  the  st  i-eani.  so 
;'.-■  tovcsi'.!  ii  as  much  as  nossible.  and  move  onwai'ds  with  a 
iieriiliai'  side-i-iei).      This    niojinu    is    not  a"'reeabie.       !'i    fe*  Is 

i  1  n 

as  ii'y.iur  horse  were  marlcin'r  time  witliout  ;,;'Minini4'  ^^roiiihl, 
and  ill.'  |»ro:;'ri'ss  made  beiin;'  really  vei'y  sl.iu'.  the  ;-hore  fre.ui 
\v!i";'!i  VMii  vrirted  seems  to  rec-ede  fr.e.i  yoM.  wltihd  that  !''r 
wlilch  Veil  are  malln:;'  a]i])ears  as  far  as  (>\i'r. 

■  When  we  rea(  hed  th.e  middle  of  the  stream,  llie  r^iar  (d' 
il'c  v.aters  wa;;  so  ^jivat  that  v.'e  could  scarcely  make  onr 
v.iiies  audible  to  one  another;  they  v/ere  overpowered  by  the 
'  rinichiiiLi'  sound  of  the  iee,  and  the  bumpiny  of  kirn'"  stones. 
■  luainst  the  bottoui.     U]>  to  this  point  a  diagonal  line,  rather 

•  liiwii    stream,   liad   l)een    eautiously    followed;    !)iit    when  we 

•  Mill''  to  ilie  nudille,  we  turned  our  horses"  heads  a  little 
;iu'i!iii''^t  the  stream.  As  we  thus  altered  oiu'  cdiu'se,  the  Idii^- 
line  el'  l)au'^'aM'e-horses  ap[n'art'd  to  be  swull^'  round  alto- 
u'tjii  V.  lis  if  swept  olf  their  h>^•s,  None  of  them,  howexcr, 
^  i"ke  away,  and  they  continued  their  advance  without  accl- 
ilent  :  and  -at  lenj^-th  we  all  r(>aehed  the  shore  in  safety." 

After  a  day's  journey  in  Iceland,  rest,  as  msiy  well  be 
>Wj.eosed,  is  highly  afce[)table.  Instead  of  passing'  ihL'ni>j;-ht 
in  the  peasaid"s  Init,  the  traveller,  "when  no  ehurcdi  is  at 
li.nid,  ;4-em  rally  prefers  pittdduij,"  his  teid  near  a  ruunin;^' 
siieam  oil  a  e-rassy  plain;  but  someliuies,  iii  eoiisequeuee  of 


102 


Tin:    POLAR    WOHLI). 


<lie  o-rciit  (liHtanci'  from  one  hiibiliiblc  pliu-i.'  to  aiiotlu'r,  lie  is 
oblit^'oil  to  ciicaiiip  ill  the  mulHt  of  a  bo^-  wluTc  tlic  ihh>y 
hoYHva  liml  citlit'i-  l)a(l  lii>rbH,  scarcely  lit  to  satisfy  tli.ir 
Imn^'or,  or  no  food  at  aJl.  After  they  have  been  iinloadr.l, 
their  fore-le^s  are  bound  to^'etlier  above  their  h(»ofs,  so  as  to 
prevent  them  straying'  too  far,  whik'  their  masters  arrauyo 
t  hemselves  in  tlie  tent  as  comfortably  as  thoy  can. 


The  Gi cat  Auk. 


^•iiitli 

uall.s, 
>i(iniiv 
\  icileut 
tuvtli    : 
laiidiiii 


«»J» 


llvr-r-i'iall. 


CJlAPTFJi  VI 11. 

TIIK    WKSTMAN    ISLANDS. 

T!i-  \S'i-liii;uis     'I'lii'ir  i\ti'i'iiii'  DilVirulty  I't"  Aoecns   -lluw  tlicy  bconnio  poDplcil 
llciiii.'icy      Kimrstalliir.iiul  OlUiilrvlc  -  Slicfp  llni^linu; — Kif^'Oatlicriii^'      hi'did- 
iiil    Miirlalilv  aiiiuiiur  tli,.    ('liiKlrin        'I'li,'   (linkli<li  —  ( iiiitlciiuui   .loliii --  'I'lu' 
M-ri'i.iii  I'inilcs      liri-.uH'ul  SiilK'i'iiiyis  (if  llif  Islamlci-s. 

I)  ISIN(;  iilnMiptl}  IVoiu  the  sen  t<»  ii  height  of  1)1(5  i'eet,  tlic 
t  small  Westiiiiiii  Islands  are  no  less  i»ietui'estjUe  tliaii 
iliflieiilt  i»r  access.  Many  a  iraveller  while  sailiii;.;-  aloiio-  the 
suiitli  cuiist  (>r  Icelaiul  has  adiiiired  tlielr  towering'  roclc- 
ualis,  l)ut  in»  moileru  tourist  has  ever  laiuled  thei'e.  I'or  so 
>tniiii\-  ;i  sea  rolls  between  them  and  the  iiiainlaiid,  and  so 
\inl('ut  are  tlu'  currents,  which  the  slightest  ^viiid  brings 
ti'i'th  in  the  narrow  channels  of  the  archi[)elag<t,  that  a 
lainling  can  be  etfeett.'d  only  when  the  Aveather  is  perfectly 
<mIiii.  The  Dril'anda  foss,  a  cascade  on  the  opposite  niaiu- 
laiid,  rushing-  from  the  brow  of  the  Eyafyalla  range  in  a 
inliiinn  of  some  800  or  UOO  feet  in  height,  is  a  sort  of 
Itaionieter,  which  decides  whether  a  boat  can  put  olf  with  a, 
|iios[)ecl  ol'  gaining  the  Weslmans.      In  stormy  weatiier  the 


101 


TIIK    I'OLAIi    wold, I). 


Wind  ('(Myiiio-  iuiioiij^-  llic  clilt's  convci'ts  <1h>  I'lill,  tlimiili 
oniisi<lc'i'iiI-»l(',  into  ii  cloud  (tf  s[»niy,  Avliidi  is  dissi[»atr(|  in 
till'  iitiiiosplu'rc,  s<»  tliiit  no  ciiscude  is  visible  iVoni  llu'  bciicli. 
In  (.'iihn  wciiihcr,  ilic  column  is  intiiid,  iind  if  it  rcniiiins  s.. 
(wo  ditys  in  succession,  then  tlic  sen  is  iisuiilly  (-iilni  cnoii^li 
lo  ;ill()\v  bonis  to  land,  and  they  venture  out.  As  tin'  b  .■ 
liindiTs,  tlu'ouLj-b  stormy  weather,  iire  tVe(iuenily  cut  oil"  I'imim 


mrr 


HI 


Vn- 


Euroj)*',  HO  the  inliiibittints  of  the  AVestmans  are  still  ii 
fre([uently  cut  off  from  Iceland,  and  it  is  seldom  more  tli 
once  a  year  that  the  mails  are  landed  direct.  The  /'. 
betters  from  Denmark  ffoi  tiu;  corresponibMice  is  in  all  j 
babiliiy  not  very  active)  aie  landed  in  Iceland  at  Reykjavik, 
and  thence  for\var<b'<l  to  tlu'  isl.mds  by  boat,  as  chance  iiiii\ 
(ttfor,  for,  during'  the  whole  wini<r  and  the  <.;reater  pari  ni 
the  summer,  conununication  is  im])ossible.  It  will  jiitw  lio 
un<h'rsto(id  why  tourists  are  so  little  inclined  to  visit  lIu' 
VVestmaus,  des[iite  the  i):a".';ii('feiic''  <■!'  i  lieil'  <'oasl  ><ceiici'\. 
I'oi'  who  has  the  jiat ience  i<>  tarry  in  a  iiiiserabl(>  Iml  on  ili,' 
o|>])osite  mainland,  till  the  cascade  informs  liini  thai  I 
are  accessible,  or  is  ineliiied  to  rini  the  risk  of  beiui^"  (Ida: 
1)V  a,  sudden  cliauLi'e  of  the  wi-atber.  for  v/eelcs  or  even  i 


n('\ 


lllMl 


noil)  ii~ 


tl 


on  lUese  soutarvrocKs 


.'k 


The  pntlin,  or  the  screechiji;L^'   sea-mew,  seem  the  o3ily 
habitaids   for  which  natui'c   has  htted    thi;  AVesliuans, 
vet  thi»v  have  a  lustory  which   leads   us  ba(d\-    to    the  ti 
when  Iceland  itself  lirst  became  Icuowu  lo  man. 


111- 


aiiu 
lar- 


Aboiil   l^T^t,  a  few  ^cars  alter  iuiiolfr 


ojjowed   his  hiiiisf- 


hold  l;'o(1s  to  T'eykjavik,  a  ^^'ol•we^•iau  pirate,  [.ei'cliaiice  niir 
of  the  associates  of  that  historical  persoiian'e,  landeil  on  tlir 
coast  of  Ireland,  attacked  with  lire  and  sword  thedefciicc- 
less  [)o[)nlation,  captnred  forty  or  lil'ty  persons,  inen,  wiiiicii. 
and  children,  and  carried  them   otf  as  skives. 


he  pa 


ssir. 


nnist  have  been  anythinn'  but  pleasant,  for  it  «^ave  tli 
llil)ernians  such  a  foretaste  of  the  wretchedriess  that  awaiti^ 
them    in   Iceland,    their  J'uture  abode,  that  tak 


viu!''   coiir.iuv 


from  despair,  they  rose   on  their  captors,  threw  them  ovt  i- 


board,  and  went  ashov 


e  oi! 


Ilie  Hrst  land  thev  niet  with 


A  day  of  rare  serenity  must  have  witnessed  their  an'ivnl 
on  tlie  Westmans,  a  sjtot  which  of  all  others  S!«emed  iiifi>t 
unlikely  to  beconio  their  home,      W'liv  thev  remained  IIkiv. 


(■nl.oMSATinS    u|'    Till:    WKSTMANS, 


1(1.'. 


i>  ;i  scirct  (it"  the  piist  :  most  liKi'ly  llicv  liinl  ii«»  ollur 
iilti'i'iKitivc.  iitnl  fVccdiiiii  oil  ii  I'dclv  wiis,  iit  nil  cvciils,  lu'tfrr 
iliiiii  sl;iv«'i'v  iiiidcr  ;i  cnirl  \il;iii^'. 

Tliiis  these  \veiitlii'r-lie;i<eii  isleN  were  fii'st i)f(>j»le<l  liyineii 
tV..iii  the  west,  wlu'iit'e  they  <leii\i'  their  ii;iine,  iiml  it  is  siip- 
|iu>r(l  ihiit  the  present  iiihiihit  ilits  iii'e  the  th'sceinliilits  ol' 
tlm^e  eliildi'eii  (if  I'lriii.  No  one  \vill  be  iiieliiied  to  ciivy  tliem 
ihe  heritil^'e  be(|iieiilhed  to  them  hy  their  lathi  is. 

The  Westmuns  iii'e  tinirteen  in  ninnl)i  r  ;   hut  of  these  only 


t>]\'\      Cillli'l 


I     lleillliie\  ,  or    Home    Ishlll'l,  is    iidiahited.       It 


lii'leeii  miles  from  the  coast  of  Iceland,  and  forty-li\e  fiMiii 
llekda.  'Jdioiio'h  hir^-er  than  nil  the  othci-s  put  to^^H't her,  its 
entire  surface  is  not  more  ihaii  ten  sijU.ire  miles.  It  is 
.liiimst  surrounded  with  ]ii;;h  basaltic  cliffs,  and  ;iii  oiherwise 
iioii-h(»uud  si  lore  ;  its  interior  is  covered  with  black  asliy- 
liM.kini^'  cones,  bearin-^  undoubted  evidence  ol'  volcanic  action  : 
ill  fact,  the  barbour,  which  lies  on  its  north-east  siije,  and  is 
.■iil\  accessil)le  Jo  small  craft,  is  loriiicd  out  ot'  an  old  crater, 
into  w  hie  h  the  sea  has  worn  mi  cut  r;;ni'e.  The  iiihalMtauts  aii- 
I'm;iIi'(|  in  two  villa^'cs;  Kanj-siat  liir  on  a  iiltle  j.'.'r.issy  kiioll, 
i!.ar  the  landiiit.;'-jtlaci',  and  <)faii!ewi  on  the  i.',rassy  [ilatfoim 
n\  liie  island.  ()nly  three  of  the  other  islets  prtnbice  anv 
vc^ilalioii  ov  [i!isturae-(',  and  it  is  said  tliat,  on  (tie  (.f  these, 
the  ^heep  are  boivsted  with  a  rope  out  of  the  boats  by  an 
islaiidei'.  wlio,  a(  the  rislc  of  his  neck,  has  climbed  to  the  top 
iif  the  precipitous  rock.  The  others  are  mere  naked  clitls  (u* 
allic  pillars,  the  alxxle  of  innnuu-rable  sea-l)irds,  "wliieli, 

1   [>reeious  resource  to   the    islanders. 


\'A 


wneii   accessiijie,  arc 


bh 


ir,  as  may  well  be   suppost'd,  the  scanty  ^'rass  lauds  alford 
rislmieiit  but  to  a  few  cows  and  sheep:  and  as  the  unruly 


iii'ii 

waters  too  often  [>revent  their  fishiny-boats  from  jmttiiii;'  to 

-'■■\.  they  depend   in   a   e-reat   measure  for   their   subsistence 

iipeii  tlie  sea-birds,  in  Avliose  capture  they  exhibit  wonderful 

r:iL;e  and  skill.      Ln  the  e^'i^'-seasoii  they  l;o  to  ihe  top  of 

lie  (.lilf,  and  puttiiif^'  a.  rop(;  round  a   man's  waist,  let  him 

n  tlie  side  of  the  perjiendicidar  rock,  one,  two,  or  three 

imdreil    feet  ;   on    arrivin-)-   at   the  hmn',  narrow,  horizontal 


-.1(1 


(!n\V 


-liclvcs,   h 


pr 


'(.)CecH 


];-i    to    fill    a    laro-(>  liau'  Avith  the  britth 


\v> 


;iai 


;isirres  (h'posited  by  the  birds.      \\di(>n   his  ba^'  is  full,  he 
I   his  e|4'gs  are  drawn   to  the  to[>  by  bis  companions.      If 


vveop 


iOJ 


Tin-:  roLAii  would. 


lilt'  ropo  brcalvS,  or  is  cut  off  by  the  nluirp  corners  of  tin- 
ruck,  which,  liuwever,  happens  Imt  seldom,  nothin;n'  can  suvc 
the  luckless  fowler,  who  is  either  precipitated  into  the  sea,  mi 
(lashed  to  pieces  on  the  rocks  below. 

At  a  later  period  in  the  season  they  yo  and  o-et  the 
youno;  birds,  and  then  they  have  often  desperate  battles 
with  the  old  ones,  who  will  not  ^-ive  up  hghtiu'^-  for  their 
ott'sijring-  till  their  necks  are  l>roken,  or  their  brains  knocketl 
out  with  a  club.  Where  the  cliffs  are  not  accessible  iroiii 
the  top,  they  j^'o  roimd  the  bottom  in  b(»ats,  and  show  si 
wonderful  ag'ility  and  darine;  iu  scaling-  the  most  terribl" 
precipices. 

In  summer  they  eat  the  ey'j^'s  and  the  fresh  meat  of  llic 
yomig-  birdf',  which  they  also  salt  for  tlie  winter.  'V\h; 
feathei's  form  their  chief  article  (»f  export,  besides  dried  and 
salted  (odMsh,  and  willi  these  ihey  [»rocure  their  few  ne- 
cessaries and  luxuries,  consisting-  [»rinci[>ally  of  clotliiii;^'. 
tobacco  and  snuff,  s])irits,  lish-hooks  and  lines,  and  salt. 
Xa  there  is  no  peat  on  these  islands,  nor  dried  Hsh-bones  in 
suiticient  quantity,  they  also  make  use  of  the  touyh  old  sea- 
birds  as  fuel.  For  this  purpose  they  split  them  open,  ami 
dry  them  (»n  the  rocks. 

The  Westmans  form  a  se])arate  Syssel  or  co\uity,  and  tliev 
have  a  church,  and  usually  two  clergymen.  Their  clunvli 
was  rebuilt  of  stone,  at  the  exj>ense  of  the  Danish  govern- 
ment, in  1771',  and  is  sai<l  to  be  one  of  the  best  in  Tceland. 
Unfortunately  the  two  clerg-ymeu  to  whom  tlie  s[»iritual  can' 
of  the  islanders  is  conlided  seeju  to  have  but  a  very  iii- 
ditferent  Hock,  for  their  nei<^hbours  on  the  mainland  '/nr 
rather  a  bad  character  to  the  inhabitants  of  lleiniaev. 
describiiiL;"  them  as  «4'reat  sluy^ards  and  drunlcards. 

The  populatit)n,  which  was  formerly  more  couHiderabic. 
amounts  to  about  2<»()  souls,  but  even  this  is  more  iliaii 
mi^ht  be  expected  from  the  dreadful  mortality  wliich  ri'ii^ii^ 
anionj^'  the  children.  The  e«j;-^4-s  and  the  oily  tlesli  of  sea- 
l»irds  furnish  a  miserable  food  for  infants,  particularly  when 
weaned,  as  is  here  customary,  at  a  very  early  ai;e;  but  llic 
[loor  islauders  Jiave  nothii}«4'  else  i(»  oive  them,  exc('[>t  snine 
lisli,  and  a  ver_)  insuflicient  (juantity  <tf  cow's  oj"  sheep's  milk. 
This  unhealthy  diet,  alou^'  with  the  boisterous  air,  <j;ives  rise 


KXPLOITS   OF    riRATKS. 


107 


\i>  ,111  incurable  infiintile  disease  called  (jinkloti  (fflanits). 
Its  lirsi  symptoins  are  squinliii^-  and  rt-lliiij^-  of  the  «'yes,  the 
iiiusrles  of  the  back  are  seized  with  incipient  cranii)S  and 
Invdiuc  stiff.  After  a  day  <»r  two  lock-jaw  takes  place,  tlie 
Lack  is  bent  like  a  bow,  either  backwards  or  forwards.  The 
l(.rk-jaw  [»revents  swalhnvino-,  und  the  cramps  become  more 
trc(jiu'ut  and  prolon<i;ed  initil  death  closes  the  scene.  The 
saiiic  disease  is  said  to  decimate  the  children  on  St.  Kilda  in 
(•tinse(|uence  of  a  sinular  mode  of  life. 

The  (jnly  means  of  preserving-  the  infants  of  Heimaey 
(loni  the  (rinkloli,  is  to  send  them  as  soon  as  possible  to  the 
iiiainland  to  be  reared,  and  thus  a  lony  continuance  of  bad 
weather  is  a  death-warrant  to  many. 

Who  woidd  suppose  that  the  Westman  islanders,  doubly 
guarded  by  their  poverty  and  their  almost  inaccessible  cliffs, 
<<»vdd  ever  have  become  the  prey  of  freebooters V  and  yet 
I  hey  have  been  twice  attacked  and  pillag'cd,  and  well-ni^'h 
I'xleniiinated  by  sea-rovi'rs. 

I  have  already  mentioned,  in  a  previous  cha])tev,  that  before 
the  tliseovery  oi"  the  l»anks  of  Newfoundland,  the  Eng'lish 
i-od-lishers  used  to  resort  in  ;^reat  nund)ers  to  the  coasts  of 
lielaiid,  where  some  of  them — now  and  then — apj>eared 
also  ill  the  more  ([uesli(»nable  character  of  corsairs.  One  of 
these  worthies,  who  like  Paul  Clifford,  or  Captain  Macheath. 
-'•  ('tfeetually  united  the  snarl  fir  iti  oioilo  w^ith  tin.'  foi'tUnr 
'/'  /v,  :is  to  have  merited  the  name  of  '  (jlentleman  John,' 
'•anil-  to  the  Westmans  in  lOl  !•,  and  set  the  church  on  lire. 
il'tiT  liaviiiL;'  jtreviously  removed  the  little  that  was  worth 
lakiiiL;.  After  this  ex[)loit  he  retunie(l  \o  Creat  Britain,  but 
•\iiiL;'  .lames  I.  had  him  Iiuiil;',  and  ordered  the  church 
"iiiaiiiejits  which  he  had  robbed  ti>  be  restored  to  the  poor 
islanders.  It  was,  howevei-,  written  in  the  b(n)k  of  fate  that 
they  were  not  to  enjc»y  them  lon;^',  for  in  h»27.  a  vessel  ot 
Al^-t'iine  pirates,  after  [tlunderiiiij;'  several  [tlac(^s  on  the 
I  astern  and  southern  coasts  of  Iceland,  fell  like  a  tlnindeibolt 
"II  Heimaey.  These  JMisereauls.  compared  with  wln»m  J(din 
\\as  a  *  <4'entleman  '  indeed,  cut  dt.>wn  every  man  who  ven- 
Miiol  t<_>  ojijiose  them,  pliiiidcred  and  burnt  the  new-built 
hiiicli.  and  every  hovel  of  iln-  [dace,  and  carried  away  ab(»nl 
loo  prisoners — men,  women,  and  children.     One  of  the  two 


108 


TIIK    I'OLAIl    WOKiil). 


clergymen  of  tlio  island,  Jon  Torstoinson,  -vvas  ninrdi'i-od 
at  tliu  tiiiK'.  This  learned  and  pious  man  luid  translated  Uw 
Psalms  of  J)avid  and  tlie  Book  of  Genesis  into  leediMidic 
verse,  iind  is  spoken  of  iis  the  '  innrtyr  '  in  tlie  history  dl' 
the  land.  The  other  clerj^'yniiin,  Oliif  E«^-ilson,  ■with  his 
wife  and  (diildren,  and  the  rest  of  the  prisoners,  ^vas  soLl  into 
slavery  in  AI;^-i(>rs.  The  aeeonnt  of  his  sufferings  and  j.ii- 
vations,  Avlii(di  he  Avroto  in  the  Icelandic  hin^>'naye,  m:\> 
afterwards  transhited  and  published  in  Danish. 

It  Avas  not  until  KJoi),  idne  years  after  their  capture,  Unit 
the  unfortunate  lleitnaeyers  were  release(l,  and  then  only  In 
bi'inL;-  ransomed  l)y  the  Ivin^'  of  neninai'k.  Smdi  amis  the 
misery  they  had  endured  from  llx'ir  hai'hantus  tasl^inastcis. 
that  only  thirty-seven  of  the  whole  nnmber  survived,  and  "I 
these  l)ut  thirle(>n  lived  to  reiuni  (o  (heir  nalive  Irdand. 


liic  Wild  Oootc, 


i^r! 


IB 


M 


.irT'NSv. 


Bfi—- 


B6l— 


6e, 


i  (>   k  ull 


^^1 


!  I 

! 

i 

II 

;  I 
i  I 
i    ! 


■\iwkuli  !^ 

-   J^ 


-cr 


I  €  S  :i.  A  Jl  D 

DIkciis    M;iii  oI'  [crlfiiKt 


t'.litt'isn    }fJrr- 

#                        »."                     .1                     Ij                        Ml 

.«■ 

hti4indt.rt  HiJfH  :  HniUf^^i'i- 

-------. 

J'Srnrh     Myri4iff.,'r  t:  ■ 

'            t           3           ♦           3 

., 

10 


H 


;,1yi''-.\p  1.^.         •'.'-     -Rr.l  . 


Wi- 


ItWl 


il 


iCt 


^'^x.;' 


..»<' 


•p^ 


(~ 


'^»r..i>'<'" 


k 


r  f 'i.'fe"i-i''i'..ii 


.„^' 


>,.'" 


rr/k^Tn,  r!:y     o*^-?-}','"*' 


i-'v 


^  .1  Jl-  .1 


■^4 


vv^-<"-'^  '  'j'-^^'"         •'■'A-'  Lyo-^ 


(Vl., 


\  \ 


—{'\ 


v/=^ 


'^        Ki'iHiiviit:. 


■r^ 


tn 


./V    - "~ 


/ie\  kir ... 


J 


/        _,r_ils^t-!»l: 


,-.* 


fig\^^\ 


,.«.,/i 


:^r^ 


.y 


(nxHilHruiN 


.1 


KoV" 


WmI 


niHiuin«^:|ai 


^-^t 


'•< 


"'^y, 


-X. 


CI 


^~^ 


'^"V^J 


31 


20 


'  oiiiljiii     ,  'Mtyjiiii 


Hi 


18 


\ 

Mauareyjttr        V, 
•^      Axart'jordr  ; 


{  (    '.'1 


;- 

fe 


Mi'yHitLtinii     ^ 


HnrduJ'reitt^ 


■»■■ 


a,      .'  <>  li  u  I  |l 


»*> 


/ 


■v'- 


:!(> 


Eitw'-Wpil.i-  .  '■'';'   -^ ''     ■■■  ■•■'"""•' 


I  uiiiinii     ,  iMiyjiKi  ii  X-  I  I' 


—u -JJSBHKl 


I 


vnn.:i-r  tvnuen.  ijofo'i-ii  Islau-.k 


CllAPTKK   TX. 

ritoM    J)I{ONTHEIM    TO    TIIK    NOimi    CAl'E. 

.Mild  Cliiiialp  i)f  tlir  N(jr\vei;i:iii  (_^);l^t  -  Its  Cuuscs — 'I'lio  Norwojiiaii  l\\isaiit — 
Xm'wcniaii  Consl  il  iilioii  lioinanl  if  Coast  .'-'(•t'lR'i'y— Droiillicim — Grciffi'iil'i'ld 
llnliii,'  iiinl  N'iiiv  - 'I'lic  Si';i-l']aglo— 'I'lh;  llcrrini;  I'lslicrirs  'J'lio  Lot'otoii 
l-laiiils  'I'lit'  Voi[  iMslicrirs  Wrclclnd  ('uiulit'Kni  ot'  llic  J'^ishcniii'ii  Troniso — • 
Aluiilioi'd  'I'lic  Coiipcr  Mines  -llaiiiiiu'i'lol  tile  nmst  Mdi'llicni  Town  in  tlio 
\V,,rl,l     The  Noj'lli  Cai-o. 

<VF  ALL  the  lands  situated  either  uithiii  or  near  the  Aretie 
'  Cireh.'  none  enjoys  a  more  temperate  elimate  than  the 
Norweii,'ian  coast.  Here,  and  nowliere  else  throughout  the 
northern  world,  the  birch  and  the  fir  tree  climb  the  mountain- 
slopes  to  a  lieiyhi  of  TOO  or  800  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sr;i,  its  far  its  the  701h  dei4're(>  of  liititud(>  :  here  we  still  find  ;i 


no 


TIIK    1'0I.AR   WORM). 


fhmrisliin^  ni^ricultnrc  in  tlu'  intovior  «»f  tlu'  Miilaiii^i'V  Fjoid 
in  iVr. 

On  tlio  ()pposito  side  of  tlio  Polar  (Voan  extontls  the  in 
iioccssiblo  ice  bolt  of  East  Groenhnul ;  Hpitzlu'r^'on  an<l 
Novaya  ZcMulya  are  not  400  niilos  distant  from  Talvij^-  and 
Haniniorfest,  and  yet  those  ports  are  never  blocked  with  ice. 
and  even  in  the  depth  of  winter  renniin  constantly  open  in 
navijTfation. 

What  are  the  causes  wliicli  in  this  favoured  rej^'ion  banisli 
the  usual  rigors  of  the  Arctic  Zone'P  How  conies  it  that  tlie 
winter  even  at  the  North  Cape  (mean  temperature  +22'')  is 
inucli  loss  severe  than  at  Quebec  (mean  temperature  +  1  1  ). 
which  is  situated  2^)°  of  latitude  nearer  to  the  equator? 

The  liig-h  mountain  chains  which  separate  Norway  from 
Sweden  and  Finland,  and  keep  off'  the  eastern  gales  issnin^;- 
from  the  Siberian  wastes,  Avhile  its  coasts  lie  open  to  the 
mild  south-westerly  winds  of  the  Atlantic,  no  doubt  account 
in  some  measure  for  the  comparative  mildness  of  its  climate ; 
but  the  main  cause  of  this  phenomenon  must  no  doubt  he 
sought  for  in  the  sea. 

Flowing*  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean  between  Florida  and  Cuba, 
the  warm  gulf-stream  traverses  the  sea  from  w^est  to  east, 
and  although  about  the  middle  of  its  course  it  partly  turns  to 
the  south,  yet  a,  considerable  portion  of  its  waters  flows  on- 
wards to  the  north-east,  and  streaming  through  the  wide 
portal  between  Iceland  and  Great  Britain,  eventually  reacli(\^ 
the  coasts  of  Norway.  Of  course  its  warmth  diminishes  as 
it  advances  to  the  north,  but  this  is  imparted  to  the  winds 
that  sweep  over  it,  and  thus  it  not  merely  brings  the  seeds  ni' 
tropical  plants,  from  equatorial  America,  to  the  coasts  of 
Norway,  but  also  the  far  more  important  advantages  of  ii 
milder  temperature. 

The  soil  of  Norway  is  generally  rocky  and  sterile,  but  the 
sea  amply  makes  up  for  the  deficiencies  of  the  land,  and  with 
the  produce  of  their  fisheries,  of  their  forests,  and  their  njines, 
the  inhabitants  are  able  to  purchase  the  few  foreign  articles 
which  they  require.  Though  poor,  and  not  seldom  obliged  to 
reap  the  gifts  of  nature  amidst  a  thousand  hardships  and 
dangers,  they  envy  no  other  nation  upon  earth. 

Tlu^  Norwx^gian  peasant  is  a  free  man  on  the  scanty  bit  of 


RDUCATIOX    I.V    NOHWAY, 


111 


niMiiMil  wliicli  he  liJi/H  inliorito<l  iVoDi  h'lH  fathers,  aiiil  lit'  liiis 
;ill  the  virtues  of  a  fi'oeinan — an  open  eharaeter,  a  niiixh-hMr 
nlt'very  falsehood,  an  liospitahio  heart  for  the  stranj^-er.  His 
rt'H<4ions  feelin<jfs  are  deep  and  sincere,  and  the  Bibh»  is  to 
l)e  found  in  every  hut. 

He  is  said  to  bo  indolent  and  phlef,nua+ic,  but  when  ne- 
(Tssity  ur<ifOS  he  sets  vigorously  to  work,  and  never  eeases 
till  his  taslc  is  done.  His  courage  and  his  ]>atri(>tisin  are 
iil)undantly  proved  by  a  history  of  a  thousand  years. 

Norway  owes  her  present  prosperity  chi(Mly  to  her  lilx-ral 
constitution.     The  press  is  completely  free,  and  the  powrr  ol 
the  king  extremely  limited.     All  privileges  and  hereditary 
t  ities  are  abolished.    The  parliament  or  the  '  storthing,'  which 
assembles  every  three  years,  consists  of  the  'odelthing'  or 
upper  house,  and  of  the  'logthing'  or  legislative  assendily. 
Fivery  new  law  requires  the  royal,  sanction,  but  if  the  stor- 
thing has  voted  it  in  three  snceessivc  sittings,  it  is  defini<ivel\ 
ailopted  in  spite  of  tlio  royal  veto.     Public  education  is  a<l- 
luifably  cared  f<»r.     There  is  an  elementary  school  in  every 
village,  and  wliere  the  j)opnlation  is  too  thinly  scattered,  the 
schoolmaster  may  truly  be  said  to  be  abroad,  as  he  wanders 
tVoni  farm  to  farm,  so  that  the  most  distant  families  have  the 
liciielit  of  his  instruction.     Every  town  has  its  public  library, 
and  in  many  districts  the  peasants  annually  contribute  a  dollar 
towards  a  collection  of  books,  which,  under  the  care  of  the 
priest,  is  lent  ont  to  all  subscribers.     No  Norwegian  is  con- 
tinned  who  does  not  know  how  to  read,  and  no  Norwegian  is 
allowed  to  marry  who  has  not  been  confirmed.     He  who 
attains  his  twentieth  year  withont  having  been  confirmed  has 
to  fear  the  House  of  Correction.    Thus  ignorance  is  punished 
as  a  crime  in  Norway,  an  excellent  example  for  far  richer  and 
more  powerful  nations. 

The  population  of  Norway  amounts  to  about  1  ,r{r,0,()0(),  but 
these  are  very  uncHpially  distribnte«l,  for  while  the  southern 
province  of  Aggerhnus  has  51:5,000  inhabitants  on  a  surface 
of :'..'), 200  square  niiles,  Nordland  has  only  r)<),000  on  ]fi,:}2r), 
and  Finmark,  the  most  northern  province  of  the  land,  but 
:>^,000  on  29,025,  or  hardly  mor(^  than  one  inhabitant  to 
evmy  square  mile.  Hut  even  this  scanty  ])opulation  is  im- 
inens(^  when  compared  with  that  <^f  Eastern  Siberia  or  of  th<' 


112 


TiiK  i'or,\ii  woKi.n. 


fTudsoirs  ]\\\y  t('rrit<»ri(>s,  iiml  entirely  owes  its  oxistenrc  (d 
the  iiiililiu'ss  of  tlio  cliiiiato  and  tlio  open  sea,  which  at  nil 
seasons  iiffor<ls  its  produce  to  the  fisherman. 

It  isdiftii'ult  to  iniaj^'ine  a  more  secluded,  solitary  life  tliiin 
tliiit    of   ih<'   '  homlers,'  or    peasiint  ]>roi»rietors,    silon^'    tlie 
norHiern  coasts  of  N<u'\viiy.    The  farms,  confined  to  the  small 
|)atches  of  m(»i'e  fruitful  ;^i-(»und  scattered  alon^-  the  fjoi'ds,  a1 
the  foot  or  on  the  sides  of  llie  ual«'d  mountains,  are  fre(|uenilv 
many  miles  dislaiit  from  Iheir  neiylilxturs,  iiiid  the  stormy 
winter    cuts   off   all  communication  hetweeu    tluun.       Thus 
every  family,  reduced  to  its  own  resources,  forms  as  it  were  a 
snnill  commonwealth,  which   has   hut  little  to  do  with  fin' 
external  world,  and   is  oblij^'cd  to  rely  for  its  happiness  on 
internal  harmony,  and  a,  moderate  competency.     8tran^'er,s 
seldom    invade    their   soHtu<h',   for   they    are    far    from    flic 
ordinary   tracks   of    the   tourist,    and  yet   a  journey   from 
Drontheim  to  TTammerfest  and  the  North  (\'i]ie  affords  many 
objects  of  interest  w^ell  worthy  of  a  visit.     The  only  mo(h'  of 
comuuuiicatifui  is  by  sea,  for  the  land  is  everywliere  inter- 
sected by  deep  fjords,  bounded  Ity  one  ccnitinuons  cluiin  ol' 
precipitous  cliff's  and  rocks,  varyin<i;-  from  one  thousand  to  foui' 
thousand  feet  in  heij^ht.      I'\)rmerly,  ev(»n  the  sca-voyaj^'c  was 
attended    with   considerable    difficulties,    for   the   niiseriibjc 
'•'■  yoeg't,"  or  Scandinavian  sloop,  the  only  means  of  convey- 
ance at  the  disposal  of  the  traveller,  required  at  the  best  of 
tiiues  at  least  a  month  to  perform  the  voy a <>-e  from  Drontlieiui 
to  llannnerfest,  and  in  case  of  stormy  weather,  or  contrary 
Avind,  had  often  to  wait  for  weeks  in  some  intermediate  port. 
Now,  however,  a  steamer  leaves  the  port  of  Drontheim  every 
Aveek,  and  conveys  the  traveller  in  five  or  six  days  to  flic 
remote  northern  terminns  of  his  joiu-ney.    Tnnnmerable  isles, 
of  every  size,  from  a  few  yards  in  diameter  to  as  many  miles, 
stnd  the  line  of  coast,  and  between  these  and  the  mainland 
the  steamer  ploug-hs  its  way.     Sometimes   the   channel  is 
as  narrow  as  the  bed  of  a  riven*,  at  others  it  expands  into  ;i 
mig'hty  lake,  and  the  ever-varying'  forms  of  the  isles,  of  the 
fjords,  and  of  the  mountains,  constantly  open  new  a,nd  mag"- 
niflcent  prospects  to  the  view.     One  grand  colossal  picture 
follows  npon  anotlun',  bnt  unfortunat(dy  few  or  none  show  the 
[ireseiice  of  man.     Frou)  time  to  time  only  some  lishing-hi.at 


m 


make 

rises 
north 
veg.'t 
trave 


Dlio.NTilKIM. 


ll.J 


iiKilccs  its  jipjx'iWiiiKM'  uii  lilt'  st.'ii,  (»!'  soim*  wooden  raniilioiiso 
visrs  on  the  solit;irv  IiodcIi.  On  iidviincinii'  riirthoi-  1o  llio 
north,  tilt' iis[K'('t  of  mitni't'  b 'conu's   moiv  and  nitn't.'  sloi'u, 


Vc'i4'i 'tilt ion  (linunishcs,  iniin  is  moro  ravfly  si'on,  und  tlii^ 
tiMvt'llcr  fffls  tis  it'  lit3  Avciv  (Ml  the  point  of  t'ntt'riii^  the 
t;|ooMiy  ri'^ions  of  iKM'potuiil  death. 

With  the  Solo  oxeoption  «if  Aivhaiii^t'l,  DrtJiitluMiii  is  the 
most  populous   and  iini»ortant  town  situated  in  so  liii^h  a 

h  the  cradle  of  ancient  Scaiidi- 


id  the  residence  of  a  lon<r  line  of  kind's,  it 


»"' 


latitutle  as  G:{^  21',  Alt,ht)uu' 
navian  history,  ai 
looks  as  if  it  had  been  built  but  yesterday,  as  its  wooden 
houses  have  frequently  been  destroyed  by  lire.  The  choir  of 
ils  niaiiiuticent  cathedral,  built  in  the  eleventh  century,  and 
once  the  resort  of  innumerable  pilgrims  \vho  came  lIockiiiL;' 
tt)  the  shrine  of  St.  (^lave  from  all  tScaudinavia,  is  the  only 
n'maininn'  memorial  of  the  ( !d  Tronyein  of  the  Norse  an- 
1  scalds.     The  modern  town  has  a  most  pleasing 


na 


and 


list.> 

iiiitl  a<4'reeable  appearance,  and  the  lively  colours  with  which 
the  houses  are  paintetl  harmonize  with  the  prosperity  of  its 
iidiabitanls,  whitdi  is  due  in  a  <>Teat  measure  to  its  thriv- 
)]\'^  lisheries  and  to  the  rich  iron  and  copper  mines  in  its 
neii^-hbourhood.  The  tall  chimneys  of  many  smeltiiij^'-hvits, 
iron  foundries,  and  other  manufactories,  bear  evidence  that 
modern  imlustry  has  found  its  way  to  the  ancient  capital  of 
Norwav.  Ill  point  of  picturesque  beauty,  the  bay,  on  a 
peninsula  of  which  the  town  is  situated,  does  not  yield  to  that 
of  Naples.  Up  and  down,  in  every  direction,  a})pear  the 
villas  of  the  merchants,  and  ships  of  all  burden  ridinj^-  at 
anchor  in  the  bay,  and  boats  passin;:»'  and  repassing".  In  a 
small  island  of  the  bay,  frontino-  the  town,  is  the  celebrated 
castle  of  Munkholm,  where  in  former  times  many  a  i)risoner 
of  state  has  bewailed  the  loss  of  his  libertv.  Here,  amoim- 
otliers,  Greiifenfeld,  who  had  risen  from  obscurity  to  the  rank 
of  an  all-powerful  minister,  Avas  incarcerated  for  eiuhteen 
years  (KISO  {»8). 

At  Hildringen,  where  the  potato  is  still  cultivated  with 
success,  and  barley  ripens  every  four  or  five  years,  beyins 
the  province  of  Nordland,  Avhich  extends  from  05°  to  09"  oO' 
X.  lat.  The  mostly  uninhabited  isles  along;  the  coast  are 
called   '  Holme,'   when  rising  like   steep    rocks    out    of  the 

I 


II  t 


TIIK    i'OLAK    WOULI*. 


water,  ninl  '  Viirc '  wlicii  Hut  iiinl  l)ut  liltlc  clfViiicd  iilicnc 
tlu!  level  of  llie  sea.  'I'lie  hitter  iire  tlie  l>re».'<liiiy'-itliiees  nt 
iiuniberless  seii-t'uwls,  wlioso  o<^<^s  yield  ii  welcome  liurvesl  to 
tilt;  iiiliahitiiiitis  ot  llu'  neij^'lilxuiriii^'  Miaiiiliiii<l,  or  <>l'  tlic 
laryer  islands.  A  well-stocketl  e};';j,'-viir  is  a  valuable  iiddilidii 
to  a  farm,  and  descends  from  i'atlier  to  son,  aloii;^-  with  Ihf 
pasture-<j,'roinids  and  tla;  hordH  of  the  patermil  land.  WIkii 
the  proprietor  conies  tt)  jthnider  the  nests,  the  hii-ils  I'eiiiiiin 
(piiet,  for  they  know  by  experience  that  only  the  sn]»erlliiuiis 
ogys  are  to  be  removed.  But  not  \nifre(|uently  sti-an^tn's 
land,  and  h'iive  not  a  sin;j;le  e^i^'  behind.  Then  all  the  birds, 
several  thousands  at  once,  rise  from  their  nests,  and  till  the 
air  with  their  doleful  cries,  [f  such  disasters  occur  ri'i>eatedly 
they  lose  couraj^'e,  and  ahandoninjj;'  the  scene  of  their  niisi'ui- 
tuiios,  retire  to  another  viir.  Most  of  these  birds  arc  8ea-<iMi]ls 
{MaasJ'iuil,  or  M(i((ijc),  their  eg'<.;"8  are  large,  and  of  a  not  dis- 
aj^reeablc  taste.  The  island  of  Lovunneii  is  the  favourih.' 
breedin^'-place  of  the  pnttin,  which  is  hij^lily  esteemed  on 
account  of  its  feathers.  This  silly  bird  is  very  easily  caught. 
The  fowler  lets  down  an  iron  hook,  or  sends  a,  dog  trained 
on  purpose  into  the  narrow  clefts  or  holes  of  the  rock,  whert' 
the  puffins  sit  croAvded  together.  The  first  bird  being  pulled 
out,  the  next  one  bites  and  lays  hold  of  his  tail,  and  thus  in 
succession,  till  the  whole  family,  clinging  togetlnn'  like  ;i 
chain,  is  dragged  to  light. 

This  rocky  coast  is  also  juuch  frequi'nted  by  the  sea -eagle. 
who  is  very-  nuich  feared  over  the  whole  province,  as  he  not 
only  carries  away  lambs  and  other  small  animals,  but  even 
assails  and  not  seldom  overpowers  the  Norwegian  oxen.  His 
mode  of  attack  is  so  singular  that  it  Von  Buch  had  not  heuid 
it  so  positivelyand  so  circumstantially  related  in  various  j)liiti's. 
situated  at  great  distances  from  each  other,  he  Avould  willinLjIy 
have  doubted  its  truth.  The  eagle  darts  down  into  the  Avavos. 
and  then  rolls  about  with  his  Avet  plumage  on  the  beach  until 
his  Aviugs  are  quite  coA'ered  with  sand.  Then  he  once  more  rises 
into  the  air  and  hoA'crs  OA^er  his  intended  victim. 


Swooj 


nni 


down  quite  close  to  him,  he  claps  his  Avings,  flings  the  smul 
into  the  eyes  of  the  unfortunate  brute,  and  thoroughly  scares 
it  by  repeated  bloAvs  of  his  pinions.  The  blinded  ox  rushes 
away  to  avoid  the  eagle's  attacks,  until  he  is  completely 
exhausted,  or  tuiribles  down  some  precipitous  cliff. 


Tin:  i.(»r(»Ti;\   isi.wns. 


\\,i 


am 


ICC 


IIL'I 


Tllf  scii  rniist   tl(»in  Alstt'ti  Id   I'otliM',  wllirll  is  ci'tisst'd   l>_vtllt' 

Antif  Cirrlc,  is  piirtiniliirlv  lidi  in  lirrrin^s,  us   it  I'liriiishos 

IlK^rc    fllllM    OIH'-llillt    nl"  tllC    lisll    CXjKtrtctl   to     llfl'I^TIl. 

Ill  rt'S|»i'('t  of  tlu'  fiipitiil  iiivt'stcd,  tlif  coil-lislit'ry  must  bo 
ft'l^iinlfd  iis  till'  most  iiii|iortiilit  ot"  tin*  Xol'\V(';;'iiili  iln'p-st'a 
lisiirrii's,  but  in  tlir  iiiiiiiliri' of  liauds  riiii>lo\i.'il,  tin'  lii-i-riii;,'- 
lisliiTV  takes  pi't'ccili'iii'i'.  TIr'  number  of  iiicu  net  iiiilv  en- 
L^M^^Til  ill  the  liitter  is  not  less  than  (iii,(MM»,  ami  eonsiib'rably 
more  than  (h»ubli'  that  numl)er  ai'e  dii'eetly  oi'  imlii'eetly 
iiiteresteil  in  the  result  of  their  operations.  The  heri'in;;'S 
taken  ill  iSC.d  lilleil  7.'»<>.(iO()  l)arrels,  each  weighing-  '2'2i 
lbs.,  the  lar;4'est  eateli  ever  taken  oil  tho  Nor\ve<jfiau  coast,  at 
least  ill  ri'eeiit  years.  As  the  moveiiient.s  of  the  tish  are  ex- 
tremely erratii',  lar;4e  shoals  Ijeiii^*-  found  one  year  in  a  ]»art 
of  the  eoast  where  none  will  be  seen  the  year  folIo\viu<4',  the 
tishermeu  are  forced  to  move  from  phice  to  place,  and  formerly 
the  herriiie\s  freijueiitly  oscaj  od  alto^'ether  for  want  of  hands 
I  caitture  them.  Now  this  diiliculty  is  in  a  ^-reat  measure 
removed.  Telec^-rapli  stations  are  erected  at  dill'erent  phices 
ell  the  coast,  from  whicli  the  movements  of  the  shoals  are 
( iirefiilly  watchi'd  ;  and  lield-tele^-rajdis  are  kept  in  readiness 
tu  be  joined  on  to  the  main  line,  so  as  to  summon  the  fisher- 
men iVoiii  every  part  of  the  country  on  the  first  api>earaiice 
I't'tlie  iish  iit  any  new  point.  The  best  time  for  the  herring- 
llslieiy  is  from  January  to  March,  and  in  18()(>,  2(»0,000 
liarrels,  or  more  than  one-fourth  of  the  total  catch,  were 
lauiiht  between  February  11  and  II. 

At  the  nortlu'i'ii  extremity  of  tlie  province  of  Nordland, 
I'etween  (58'' and  ()!)^N.  lat.,  are  situated  the  Lofoten  Islands, 
or  Vestt'raah'u  Oerne.  wliich  are  separated  from  the  mainhmd 
lt\  tJie  Vestfjord.  This  broad  arm  of  the  sea  is  remarkable 
lii'tji  for  its  violent  currents  and  whirlpools,  anions'  Avhich  the 
Malstrom  has  attained  a  workl-wide  celebrity,  and  also  from 
its  lieino"  the  most  northerly  limit  where  the  oyster  has  been 
feiind.  But  it  is  chiefly  as  the  resort  of  the  cod  that  the 
\<sttjord  is  of  the  liii;'hest  importance,  not  only  to  Nordland, 
but  to  the  whole  of  Norway.  No  less  than  (!,0(M)  lx)ats  from 
all  parts  of  tlie  coast,  manned  probably  by  more  than  half  of  the 
whole  adult  male  population  of  Nordland.  annually  assemble 
ill  Vaage,  on  the  island  of  Ost  Vaay(>o,  and  besides  these,  more 


I«i 


llfi 


TilK    rol.All    WUIJI-D. 


tluni  800  3'a:'C<i'ts,  or  l!ir«j,-er  fisliinu;'  sloops,  from  Berji^eii,  Cliris- 
tiaiisiiiul,  iiiul  Moldo,  iip[)ear  iij>()ii  tlio  seciie.  Tlio  banks  of 
Newfoiuidland  hardly  occupy  more  liauds  tliaii  the  iishiii;^- 
gromuls  of  tlie  Ve.sttjdrd,  which,  after  the  hipse  of  a  thousand 
years,  c(»ntinue  as  prolific  as  ever  ',^'  nor  is  there  an  instance 
known  of  its  having"  ever  disappointed  the  tisliernuin's  ho[»rs. 
In  Harold  llaarfagr's  times,  Vaag'o  was  already  rtmowned 
i'or  its  tisheries,  and  several  varls  had  settled  in  this  northeiu 
distfict,  to  reaj)  the  rich  harvest  of  the  seas.  At  a  later 
period,  under  the  reij^n  of  Saint  Olavo  (1020),  the  ainuial 
parliament  of  Nordland  was  held  at  Vaa^e,  and,  in  1 120,  the 
benevolent  Kint;'  J'^ystein,  brother  of  Sij^'urd  the  Crusader, 
caused  a  church  to  be  erected  here  in  honour  of  his  saintly 
predecessor,  aloni>'  Avith  a  lunnber  of  huts,  to  serve  as  a 
shelier  to  the  poor  lishermen,  a  deed  which  he  himself  prized 
nnnv  hii^hly  than  all  his  chivalrous  brother's  Avarlike  exploits 
^n  the  East,  for  "  these  nien,'  said  he,  '  will  still  remember  in 
disiant  limes  that  a.  Kin;;-  Eysteiu  once  lived  in  Norway.' 

The  reason  why  the  lish  never  cease  visiting'  this  part  of 
the  coast  is.  that  the  Lofoten  Isles  <'nclose,  as  it  were,  ;iii 
iidand  or  niediterraneaii  sea,  Avhich  only  comnmnicates  Avith 
the  ocean  by  several  narroAv  channels  between  the  islands, 
and  Avhere  the  lish  liud  the  necessary  protection  ajj;'aiiist 
stormy  Aveather.  They  assemble  on  three  or  four  baidvs  well 
known  to  the  fishermen,  seldom  arriving*  before  the  middle 
of  January,  and  randy  later  than  towards  the  end  of  Februavy. 
They  reniain  in  the  sheltered  fjord  no  long-cr  than  is  neces- 
sary for  spaAvning',  and  in  A})ril  have  all  retired  to  thedeejicr 
waters,  so  that  the  Avhole  of  the  fishino-  season  does  not  last 
longvr  than  a  couple  of  months.  The  fish  are  either  caught 
by  hooks  an<l  lines,  or  nioi'e  frequently  in  larg'e  nets  about 
twenty  fathoms  long-  and  seven  or  eigdit  feet  broad,  buoyed 
Avith  pieces  of  light  wood,  and  lested  Avith  stones,  so  as  to 
intiintain  a  vertical  position  Avhen  let  down  in  the  Avali'r. 
Tlie  lish,  swimming  with  impetuous  speed,  darts  into  the 
meshes,  Avhich  effectually  bar  his  retreat.  The  nets  are 
always  spread  in  the  evening  and  hauled  up  in  the  morning', 

*  Jii  ISOG  tliotnt;il  (Mtcli  of  co.l  was  21,(1(10.01)0,  aliniit  12,000,000  of  wliidl 
wcro  salti'd  (rli|i-li>li  I  ami  tlie  n  inaiiidtr  ilricil  (stook-fi.sh) ;  pach  fish  making  im 
an  avc'vaai^  2  llis.  of  cliii-lisli  ami  oin'-fourlh  Irs*  of  stock-flsli. 


VICISSITL'DKS    OF    riSIIKRMKN. 


ii; 


t'ov  IIS  Imirr  as  it  is  diivlinlif,  tlio  fisli  sees  and  av(>i<ls  them, 
rvcn  at  a  <l<>|>tli  of  sixty  or  ei;4htv  fatlioins.  A  siii«^l('  liaul  ol" 
Hie  net  fiv(|n('ntly  tills  half  the  boat,  and  the  heavy  iish  would 
undoubtedly  tear  the  meshes  if  they  were  not  immediately 
struck  with  iron  hooks,  and  flun<^-  into  the  l)oat  as  soon  as 
they  are  dra<2;'f>'ed  to  tin?  surface. 

Clans  Niels  SliniuL^'ini,  a  merchant  of  lior<4'nnd,  first  intro- 
duced the  use  of  these  nets  in  the  year  l()8o,  an  innovation 
whiidi  more  than  doubled  the  total  produce  of  the  iisheries. 
But  (as  with  all  useful  inventi<jns)  loud  coni[)laints  were  raised 
an-iiiust  him  in  Norway,  and  as  late  as  1702.no  n<'ts  wore 
allowed  at  Drontheini  'to  prevent  tho  ruin  of  the  ['oor  jM'ople 
who  had  not  the  capital  to  provide  themselves  with  them.' 

The  life  of  a  tisherman  is  every  where  full  of  privations  and 
danj>vrs,  but  nowhere  more  so  than  at  the  Lofoten  Islands. 
Here,  after  toiling  on  the  stormy  sea  for  many  liours.  he  has 
]i(»thiii<4'  1)ut  the  miseral>le  shelter  of  a  dam[),  filthy,  over- 
crowded hut,  which  affords  him  neither  the  rest  nor  the 
warmth  needed  after  his  fatij>,-uinn-  day's  woi'k.  liven  the 
ii'MU-tVamed  sons  of  the  North  are  freiinently  unable  to 
ii  sist  such  continuous  hardships,  and  briii^;'  home  witli  tliem 
the  seeds  of  contagion  and  death.  Malii^'nant  fevers  have 
i'iv(jaciitly  decimated  the  population  of  N<»rway,  and  their 
orig'in  may  generally  be  traced  to  the  iishin;4--^rounds.  '  The 
Arab  and  the  Pi'rsian,'  says  Leo])old  von  Ihudi,  'build  cara- 
vansaries tbr  the  wayfarers  thron^'h  the  desert;  the  in- 
habitants of  the  Alps  have  founded  "  hosjiices"  on  the  summits 
of  the  nuamtain  passes;  and  the  Norwegian  has  erectrd 
honses   of  refuo'o  on  Dovrefeld,  lait  none  for  the  iislierinen 


Ol 


liofdicii.     Near  Rodoe  there   is  a   hiv^e   hi'S|>i(;il   tor  tlie 


sick  iifNtirdland  ;  Avould  it  not  li 


as  w< 


II  t(»  build  houses  in 


linldtcii,  so  as  not  to  crowd  th(>  h<isi)itals  and  churcliyai'ds  ■;•>  ' 
This  was  written  at  the  I)ei4'inniiii4'  of  tln^  present  century, 
but  th<'  poor  Jishermen  are  still  as  ne^'jected  us  evei-.  (nr  a., 
more  recent  traveller,  IVrannier,  beheld  with  pily  the  wretcjicd 
huts  in  Avhich  they  spcuul  three  wintt-r  months,  far  from 
their  fannlies. 

In  the  channel  between  llvah"*  and  tlu!  mainland  lies,  in 
iVy  l-V  N.  lat.,  the  snnill  island  of  Tromsi*,  where  alxuit  fifty 
years  since  oidy  a  few  hsIuMMnen   re.-^idi  d.  whose  huls  have 


US 


Till-:    I'OLAi:    WOHI-D. 


^vadunlly  expmidod  into  a,  tlirivino-  little  town  of  about  :"!,(►( H> 
inliabitaiits,  aloiio;  the  shore  opposite  the  mainland.  Its 
staple  exports  are  dried  and  salted  cod,  and  train-oil.  The 
livers  of  the  cod  are  put  in  ojjen  barrels  and  placed  in  the 
sun,  and  the  melted  portion  which  rises  to  the  surface  is 
slcimmed  oif,  being  the  purest  oil.  The  coarse  refuse  is 
boiled  in  great  iron  pots  by  the  side  of  the  sea,  and  yields 
the  common  '  train-oil.'  The  muscular  matter  which  re- 
mains is  collected  into  barrels  and  exported  as  a  powerful 
manure  ;  some  of  it  is  sent  to  Eno-land. 

The  town  consists  mainly  of  one  long  straggling  street. 
following  the  Avindings  of  the  shore,  and  has  a  picturesque 
appearance  from  the  har])our.  The  houses  are  all  of  wood 
painted  with  lively  colours,  and  the  roofs  mostly  covered 
with  grass,  diversified  with  bright  clusters  of  yellow  and 
white  flowers,  look  ]n-etty  in  summer. 

Troms("'»  has  a  Latin  school,  and  even  boasts  of  a  news- 
paper, the  '  Tromsi)  Tidende  et  Blad  for  Nordland  og  Fin- 
marken  '  ('  The  Tromsi*  C4azette,  a  paper  for  Nordland  and 
Finmark  ').  This  paper  is  published  twice  a  week,  and  as 
only  one  mail  arrives  at  Tromso  every  thi'ee  weeks,  rlio 
foreign  news  is  given  by  instalments,  spreading  over  six 
successive  numbers,  until  a  fresh  despatcli  arrives. 

The  island  of  Tromsi*  is  beautifully  situated,  being  on  all 
sides  environed  bv  mountains,  so  that  it  seems  to  lie  in  the 

*  - 

midst  of  a  huge  salt-lake.  Its  surffjce  rises  in  gentle  s1o]»ps 
to  a  tolerable  elevation,  and  no  other  Arctic  isle  contain-- 
richer  pasturage,  and  dwarf  plantatioiis  of  greater  lux- 
uriance. Man}'  meadows  are  yellow  Avith  buttercups  and 
picturesque  underwood,  and  the  heathy  hills  are  covevt'd 
with  shrubs,  bearing  bright  berries  of  many  hues. 

The  pride  of  the  Tromsoites  in  their  island  and  town,  ;!n<l 
their  pi'ofound  attachment  to  it,  are  remarkable.  No  8\vis:^ 
can  be  more  enthusiastically  bound  to  his  mountains  and 
vales,  than  they  are  to  their  circumscribed  domain. 

To  the  north  of  Tromso  lies  the  broad  and  deep  Altenfjortl. 
whose  borders  are  studded  Avilh  numerous  dwellings,  and 
where  the  botanist  meets  Avitli  a  A'egetation  that  nuiv  wiH 
raise  his  astonishment  in  so  high  a  latitude.  Here  tlu' 
common  birch-tree  groAvs  1,45(1  feet,  and  the  Vareinium  unir- 


i 


.MOST    X()UTIiKl{l-V    .MINKS    I.\    TliK    \V(»1M,1). 


119 


jovtl. 
mill 
wrll 


i 


li'lhi.^  2,(>:iO  feet  above  llu'   level  of  the  sea;  the  dwarf  biirh 
[Irfida  na))(i)  still  vei^vtatos  at  a  lieiu'lit  of  2,7  10  feet,  and 
llio  Arctic  -svillow  is   even  foiiiid  as  liii^'li  as  :?,500  feet,  np  to 
the  limits  of  perennial  snow. 

Alten  is  moreover  celebrated  through  its  copper  mines.  A 
piece  of  ore  luivin<:C  been  fonnd  by  a  Lap-\voman  in  the  year 
1>J'>,  afcideiitally  fell  into  the  hands  of  Mr.  Crowe,  an 
Eiir>'lish  merchant  in  Hammerfest.  This  gentleman  innne- 
diiitely  took  measnres  for  obtainiie.;'  a  privilci^'e  from  r;"overn- 
ment  for  the  Avorkin^'  of  tlu^  mines,  and  all  preliminaries 
beiiio-  arranged,  set  oft*  for  London,  where  he  fonnded  a 
company,  with  a  capital  of  75,(>()()/.  When  Marmier  visited 
tlie  Altenfjord  in  IS  12,  more  than  1,100  workmen  wert^ 
employed  in  these  hiot^t  imrfln'r/;/  tiiiiiliKi  n'orls  of  the  world, 
and  not  seldom  more  than  ten  Knj^'lish  vessels  at  a  time 
wei'e  busy  unloading  coals  at  Kaafjord  for  the  smelting  of 
the  ores.  New  eopper  works  had  recently  been  opened  on 
ilie  opposite  side  of  the  bay  at  Raipass — and  siinM>  tlnni  the 
( stablishment  has  considerably  increased. 

Ilannnerfest,  the  cajjital  of  Pinmark,  situated  on  the  west 
.-ide  of  the  island  of  Ilvali),  in  70  :il>'  1  •'>",  is  the  most  tiortlieni 
town  in  the  world.  Half  a  century  since,  it  had  but  44 
inlialntanls  ;  at  present  its  ])0]iulation  amounts  to  1,200.  As 
at  Ti'omsi").  very  many  of  Ilie  houses,  forming  one  long  sti-eet 
winding  round  the  sliore,  have  grass  sown  on  their  roofs, 
which  gives  the  Litter  the  appearance  of  littl(>  plots  of 
meadows.  With  us  the  expression,  'he  sle<.'ps  with  grass 
above  his  head"  is  equivalent  to  saying  'he  is  in  his  grave;' 
hut  here  it  may  only  mean  that  he  sleeps  beneath  the  verdant 
roof  of  lii-;  daily  home.  Many  large  warehouses  are  built  on 
piles  projecting  into  the  water,  with  landing  quays  before 
them  ;  and  numerous  ranges  of  open  sheds  are  filled  with 
reindeer  skins,  Avolf  and  bear  skins,  walrus  tusks,  reinde(>r 
hoi-ns,  train-oil  and  dried  fish,  ready  for  ex[)ortation.  The 
chief  home  traffic  of  Hammerfest  consists  in  barter  with  the 
ha}is,  who  exchange  their  reindeer  skins  forl^randy,  tobacco, 
liardwar(\  and  cloth,  i^ome  enterprising  merchants  anini- 
;illy  fit  out  vessels  for  walrus  and  seal-hunting  at  Spitzbergen 
;i!i(l  Hear  Island,  but  tht^  principal  trade  is  with  Archangel, 
;nid  is    carried  on   entirely  in  '  lodjes  '  or  White   Sea   ships. 


^ 


120 


THE    POLAR    WOULD. 


■with  tlirco  sino'lo  iipvij^ht  masts,  eaeli  lioisting*  a  lingo  try- 
sail. These  vessels  supply  Hainnierfest  with  Russian  v\v, 
meal,  candles,  &e.,  and  receive  stock-fish  and  train-oil  in 
exehanf^e.  Sometimes,  also,  an  English  ship  arrives  with  a 
su2)ply  of  coals. 

The  fishing  grounds  off  the  coast  of  Finn  arlc,  whoso  pro- 
duce forms  the  staple  article  of  tlie  merchants  of  Hammor- 
fest,  are  scarcely  inferior  in  importance  to  those  of  Lofoten, 
the  numberof  cod  taken  here  in  1860  amountingto  15,000,000. 
A  great  part  of  the  fish  is  purchased  by  the  Kussians  as 
it  comes  out  of  the  w'ater.  Of  the  prepared  cod,  Spain  takes 
the  largest  quantity,  as  in  180-")  upwards  of  44,000,000  lbs. 
of  clip-fish  (nearly  the  whole  yield  for  the  year)  was  consigned 
to  that  country.  Of  the  dried  variety,  10,000,000  lbs.  were 
exported  to  the  Mediterranean,  and  upwards  of  4,000,000  lbs. 
more  to  Ital}*.  Sweden  and  Holland  come  next  in  order,  the 
supply  in  each  case  being  over  5,000,000  lbs.  Great  Britain 
takes  scarcely  any  stock-fish,  but  ]  ,500,000  lbs.  of  clip-fish,  and 
the  large  export  to  the  AVest  Indies  is  almost  entirely  com- 
posed of  the  latter  article. 

The  Avinter,  though  long  and  dark,  has  no  terrors  for  tlio 
jolly  Hamuiort'esters,  for  all  the  traders  and  shopkee])ers 
form  a  united  aristocracy,  and  rarely  a  night  ^>asses  witli- 
out  a  feast,  a  dance,  and  a  driidcing  bout.  The  day  wlicii 
the  sun  reappeai's  is  one  of  general  rejoicing,  the  first  who 
sees  the  great  luminary  proclaims  it  with  a  loud  voice,  and 
everybody  rushes  into  the  street  to  exchano-e  conoTatulations 
with  his  neighbours.  The  island  of  Hvalo  has  a  most  dreary 
sterile  aspect,  and  consideral)le  masses  of  snow  fill  the 
ravines,  even  in  summer.  The  birch,  however,  is  still  found 
growing  020  feet  above  the  sea,  but  the  fir  has  disappeared. 

It  may  well  be  supposed  that  no  stranger  has  ever  sojonriud 
in  this  interesting  place,  the  furthest  ouf[»ost  of  civilisation 
towards  the  Pole,  without  visiting,  or  at  least  attempting  to 
visit,  the  far-famed  North  Cape,  situated  abont  sixty  mWo-i 
from  llammorfest,  on  the  island  of  jMageri"*,  where  a  few 
Norwegians  live  in  earthen  huts,  and  still  manage  to  reai  a 
few  heads  of  cattle.  The  voyage  to  this  nnignificent  head- 
land, wliich  fronts  the  sea  with  a  steej)  rock  wall  nearly 
a  Inou^^and  feet  liigli.   is   frerjuently  diiheult  and  precarious, 


EXTREME    NORTIIEHX    I'OLNT    OP    LAND. 


I-Jl 


nor  can  it  be  seiiloJ  witliont  considcrablo  latijinc ;  but  the 
vit^v  from  the  siiiniuit  amply  rewards  the  troiibh?,  and  it  is 
no  small  stitisfaetion  to  stand  on  the  brink  of  the  most 
northern  promontory  of  Europe. 

'It  is  impossible,'  says  Mr.  W.  Hurton,^  '  adequately  to 
describe  the  emotion  experienced  by  me  as  I  stepped  up  to 
the  di/zy  ver<i-e.  I  only  knovv  that  I  devoutl}'  returned  than':3 
to  the  Almighty  for  thus  permitting'  me  to  realise  one 
darling  dream  of  my  boyhood.  I}es]>ite  the  wind,  "vvhich 
hero  blew  violently  and  bitterly  cold,  I  sat  down,  and 
Avrapping  my  cloak  around  me,  long  contemplated  the  spec- 
tacle of  Nature  in  one  of  her  subliuiest  aspects.  I  was 
truly  alone. 

'  Not  a  living  object  was  in  sight ;  beneath  my  feet  was  the 
boundless  expanse  of  ocean,  Avith  a  sail  or  two  on  its  bosom, 
at  an  innnense  distance  ;  above  me  was  the  canopy  of  heaven 
ilecked  Avitli  fleecy  cloudlets ;  the  sun  was  luridly  gleaming 
over  a  broad  belt  of  blood-red  mist ;  the  only  sounds  were 
the  whistling  of  the  wandering  winds  and  the  occasional 
plaintive  scream  of  the  hovering  sea-fowl.  The  only  living 
creature  which  came  near  me  was  a  bee,  whirh  hummed 
merrily  by.  What  did  th<0)usy  insect  seek  there 'P  Not  a 
blade  of  grass  grew,  and  the  only  vegetable  matt(^r  on  this 
point  was  a  cluster  of  Avithered  moss  at  the  very  edge  of  the 
aui'pj  precipice,  and  this  I  gathered,  at  considerable  risk,  as 
a  memorial  of  my  visit.' 


Vdj/iiij'-  f/'uiii  L'ith  (o  LapJaiul. 


J.';. 'J  O^iaty. 


}  !.i::'-J;i)'.  lifi  L'av,  S|'ii/.i.cr;'ou 


(HAFTER   X. 


SPITZHKROKN — BKAl?    ISLAND — .TAX    ME  YEN. 


The  wost  (Mcist  (if  S[iit/,li('i'jj;oii — Ascen.-ion  f)f  a  ]\Ionnt.'iiii  hy  Or.  Scorcsliy  -  ITi^ 
I'.xoiirsion  aliiiiii-  i!io  Coasr— A  straiult'd  Whale  -  MagdalcMin  li-i_v  -^riiUitii(li''s  o;' 
Son-liinls — AiiimaiLilV'  -^Iicliii:>lit  SilcJir-c  (ihiciirs — A  (laiigoroiis  Ni  iyilil'unr- 
Iiooil  — IiitoriiPi-  I'lalcaii  -I'lofa  i>f  Sj-iitzlifvo-cn —Jis  Siinilarily  Willi  tliat  of  tlip 
Alps  (ilidve  !hf  8iiii\v-liiii'"  -Ii'i'iiuli'cr  Tlit'  liypiTlMii'caii  I'larniiixan  l"isli(\-i — 
Coal — Drit'twiidil  - 'Dis.'ovcrv  of  Spilzlicrgcu  by  i'arciitz,  Krcuiskork,  and  Kyp 
—  Iirilliaiit  IVa-ioil  i^'ilu'  \\  lialr-ilsliiTy — t'offins— Eifilit^^Eiii^lish  Sailors  ^^ilH^l• 
in  SpitzbiTprrii,  103(1  -Molanohuly  r)iath  of  snin(>  DutcJi  Vohintcors — Eus.sian 
Hunters — Their  Mode  of  Winterinir  in  Spitzliei'gen  —  Selinrostin— Walrus  Ships 
fi'om  Ilainnu'i'fest  and  Troiiisci — Dear  or  ('liorio  Island — l)eniu't-.-lMiortnoiH 
Slaughter  of  Walruses — ^riUiness  of  its  Ciiniate — ^fouut  ^fisery — AdvenUiroii^ 
JJoal  Voya^rf'  of  sunic  Norwegian  Sailors— .Ian  3Iey(ii  — I'eeroidjerg. 

ri^TIE  arcliipolat»'o  of  Spitzbergmi  consists  of  five  lurp:" 
i  iKsliuuls :  W(^st  Spitzberg'ou,  Xortli-East  Laml,  Staiis 
Foreland,  Barentz  Land,  Prince  Cliarles  Foreland  ;  and  of  a 
vast  nnniber  of  smaller  ones,  scattered  around  their  coasts. 
Its  snrface  is  abont  e(jaal  to  that  of  two-thirds  of  Scotland  ; 
its  most  southern  jxtint  {7C}°  oO'  "X.  lat.)  lies  nearer  to  the 


ISI.AXDS    OK    SPITZUKIMKN'. 


153 


Polo  tlmn  M(>]villo  Isliuid;  <iiul  Ross  Islet,  at  its  nortlioini 
fxlroiiiity  (80°  ID'  N.  lilt.),  looks  out  upctn  the  unknown  oooaii, 
wliicli  povlmps  extends  Avitliout  interruption  as  far  as  tlie 
Straits  of  Belirinsj;-. 

Of  all  the  Arctic  countries  that  have  hitherto  been  dis- 
rovered,  (Jrinnell  Land  and  Washino-ton  alone  lie  nearer  to 
tlio  Pole ;  but  while  these  ice-blocked  regions  can  onl}-  be 
reached  with  the  utmost  ditiicultv,  the  western  and  north- 
western  coasts  of  Spitzbero-en,  exposed  to  the  mild  south- 
westerly winds,  and  to  the  influence  of  the  Gulf  Stream,  are 
frequently  visited,  not  only  by  walrus-hunters  and  Arctic 
exjdorers,  but  by  amateur  travellers  and  sportsmen. 

The  eastern  coasts  are  far  less  accessible,  and  in  parts  have 
never  yet  been  accvmitel}-  exi)lored.  As  far  as  they  are 
knoAvn,  they  are  not  so  bold  and  indented  as  the  western 
and  north-western  coasts,  which,  pritjectinu;'  in  mio-hty  capes 
or  openiny-  a  passa^'e  to  deep  fjords,  have  been  o-uawed  into 
every  variety  of  fantastic  form  by  the  corrodinjjf  powder  of 
an  eternal  winter,  and  justifv,  by  their  endless  succession  of 
jan'pfed  spikes  and  break-neck  acclivities,  the  name  of  Spitz- 
liero'on,  which  its  first  Dutch  discoverers  g'ave  to  this  land  of 
'  serrated  peaks.' 

The  mountains  on  the  w^est  coast  are  very  steep,  many  of 
them  hiaccessible,  and  most  of  them  dang-erons  to  climb, 
eillu'r  from  the  smooth  hard  snow  with  wliich  they  are  en- 
crusted e^.'cn  in  summer,  or  from  the  looseness  of  the  disin- 
tof>Tiited  stones  which  cover  the  parts  denuded  by  the  sun, 
and  j^'ive  way  under  the  sli;^;htest  pressure  of  the  foot. 

More  than  one  darini^*  seaman  has  paid  dearly  for  his 
tenieritv  in  venturinji"  to  scale  these  treacherous  hei<i'hts. 
The  supercaro-o,  or  owner  of  the  very  first  Dutch  whaler 
that  visited  Spitzberg-en  (1012),  broke  his  neck  in  attempting: 
to  climb  a  steep  mountain  in  Prince  Charles  Foreland,  and 
Barentz  very  n(>ar]y  lost  several  of  his  men  under  similar 
circumstances.  Dr.  Scoresby,  wlio  in  the  course  of  his 
Avlialing'  expeditions  toucluHl  at  Spitzlicrgen  no  less  than 
seventeen  tinu>s,  Avas  more  successful  in  scaling"  a  mountain 
■5,000  feet  hig-li,  near  Mitre  Cape,  though  the  approach  to  the 
sunnnit  was  b}-  a  ridg-e  so  narrow,  that  lu^  could  only  advance 
l>y  sitting-  astride  upon  its  edge.     But  the  panorama  which 


1:>4 


Tin:  ruLAR  would. 


he  bi'hcld,  iiftin*  liaviiifjf  nttninod  his  (»l>joct,  {nu]ily  I'opiiiM 
liiiu  for  the  (hiii^vr  and  fati'^no  of  c*lainl)eriii<>'  for  sevrral 
hours  over  loose  stones,  Avhieh  at  every  step  roliecl  with 
fearful  rapidity  into  the  abyss  beneath. 

'  Theprospeet,'  says  the  distin<j;'uished  naturalist,  '  was  most 
extensive  and  o-raiid.  A  iin(?  sheltered  bay  Avas  seen  to  the  <'ast 
of  us;  an  arm  of  the  same  on  the  north-east:  and  the  sea, 
whose  y;"lassy  surface  was  unrutHed  by  a  breeze,  formed  an  im- 
mense expansi'  o7i  the  west ;  the  icebergs,  rearin;^'  their  proud 
ere?ts  ahnost  to  the  tops  of  the  mountains  between  which 
they  were  lod<4'ed,  and  defyin;^'  the  power  of  the  scdar  b(>ams, 
were  scattered  in  various  directions  about  the  sea-coast  and  in 
the  adjoining  bays.  Beds  of  snow  and  ice,  fdling  extensive 
hollows  and  givino-  an  enamelled  coat  to  adjoining  valleys, 
one  of  wdiich,  commencing  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  whore 
we  stood,  extended  in  a  continued  line  towards  the  north,  as 
far  as  the  eye  could  reach;  mountain  rising  above  mountain, 
until  by  distance  they  dwindled  into  insignificance ;  tlie 
whole  contrasted  by  a  cloudless  canopy  of  dc^epest  azure,  and 
enlightened  by  the  rays  of  a  blazing  sun,  and  the  etfect 
aided  by  a  feeling  of  danger — seated,  as  we  were,  on  the 
pinnacle  of  a  rock,  almost  surrounded  by  triMuendous  pre- 
cipices;  all  united  to  constitute  a  pictm-e  singularly  sublime. 

'  Our  descent  we  found  really  a  very  hazardous,  and  in 
some  instances  a,  painful  undertaking.  Every  nu)vement 
was  a  work  t»f  deliberation.  Having  by  much  care  and 
with  some  anxiety  made  good  our  (U'seent  to  the  top  of  the 
secondary  hills,  we  took  our  way  down  one  of  the  steepest 
banks,  and  slid  forward  with  great  facility  in  a  sitting 
posture.  Towards  the  foot  of  the  hill,  an  ex]>anse  of  snow 
stretched  across  the  line  of  descent.  This  being  loose  and 
soft,  we  entered  ii]K")n  it  without  fear,  but  on  reaching  the 
middle  of  it,  we  came  to  a  surface  of  solid  ice,  perhaps  a 
hundred  yards  across,  over  which  we  launched  with  astonish- 
ing velocity,  but  happily  escaped  -without  injury.  The  men, 
whom  we  left  below,  viewed  this  latter  movement  with 
astonishment  and  fear." 

After  this  perilous  descent,  Scoresby  continued  his  excur- 
sion on  the  flat  land  next  the  sea,  where  he  found  scattered 
here  and  there   mnnv  skulls  and  other  bonos  of  sea-horses. 


.Sl'OUIvSIJV  S    OlJSKUVATKt.SS. 


\-2i 


\vli;il('s,  iiiirwals,  Ibxcs  ;iii<l  sciils.  T\v(»  Kussiiin  1o(1l;-('S,  fonncd 
dl'  lo^s  <>t"  ])iiH',  wltli  ii  third  in  vuiiis,  wen*  tilso  seen;  ilic 
tni'iiH  r,  tVniii  a  ((iiaiitity  (»!'  Ivcsli  i*lii[»s  abniil  tlicm  and  oilier 
;i(i[iraraiict'S,  ;4'av<'  cvid^'iicc  of  liaviii;^'  been  I'cct'iit  ly  iidiabiltMl. 
'I'lii'sc  Imts  wcro  built  upon  a  ridi;'*'  of  slun;^]*',  adjoinini^'  the 
sfii.  Ainoiin"  the  boulders  heaped  U[>on  the  sh(»re,  uuinerous 
St  a-l)irds  bad  built  their  nests  or  laid  their  t'l^j^s,  wJiicli  they 
defended  with  loud  cries  and  determined  couraev  a<!'aiMst 
til."  attacks  «tf  ^'ulls. 

The  only  insert  he  perceived  was  a  small  <4'roen  fly,  but  tin.' 
water  aloii;^'  the  coast  was  tilled  with  medusa}  and  shrimps. 
Tlie  strong'  n(»rth-wost  Avinds  had  covered  tlie  strand  v/itli. 
jaru'e  liea])s  of  Fiicnti  rcsinihisiiK  and  Ldmiiian'a  sfirrlitiriini, 
the  same  which  the  storms  also  cast  ont  upon  our  shores. 

'I'lie  view  of  this  hiu'li  northern  life  v.'as  extremelv  in- 
tei't'stinii-,  l)ut  Dr.  Scoresl)v  Avas  still  further  rewarded  bv  the 
discovery  oi'  a,  detul  Avhale,  fouivd  strande<l  on  tin?  beaidi, 
wiiich,  thoui^h  much  swollen  and  not  a  little  putrid,  proved 
a  prize  worth  at  least   |(M)/. 

l!y  a  harpoon  found  in  its  l)ody,  it  appeared  to  have  been 
sii'Urk  by  sc>me  of  the  lishers  on  the  Kibe,  and  having" 
esea]ie(l  from  them,  it  had  proljably  stranded  itself  (»n  the 
spot  where  it  was  found.  When  the  iirst  incision  was  made, 
the  oil  <4-nshed  forth  like  a  fountain.  It  was  a  slow  and 
lahMrious  work  to  trans[)ort  the  blubber  to  the  ship,  Avhich 
I'll  acconnt  of  the  dan^'erons  nature  of  the  coast  was  obli^'ed 
to  remain  two  miles  (»tt'  at  sea.  After  five  boat-loads  had 
safely  l)een  br<)U<4'ht  on  board,  the  wind  snddenly  chan<4vd, 
so  that  the  ship  was  driven  far  out  to  sea,  and  the  boat 
reached  it  with  ^reat  ditticulty. 

Uf  the  numerous  fjords  of  »S])itzberyen,  once  the  busy 
resort  of  Avhole  Heets  of  whalers,  and  now  but  randy  visited 
l>y  man,  none  litis  been  more  accurately  described  by  modern 
Arctic  voyag'ers  than  the  mayniticent  harbour  of  AIaL;-dalena. 
liay.  Here  the  'Dorothea'  and  the  'Trent'  anchored  in 
I81>^,  on  their  wav  to  the  North  Pole;  here  also  the  French 
naturalists,  who  had  been  sent  ont  in  the  corvette  '  La  l?e- 
cherche  '  (18:).5-:{())  to  explore  the  hiyh  northern  latitudes, 
sojourned  fcr  several  weeks. 

The  number  of  the  sea-birds  is  trulv  astonishing".     On  the 


12G 


TIIK    I'OLAK    WORLD. 


11    ! 


letlj^os  of  a  liii'li  rock,  iii  tin.'  head  oi'  ilie  l)iiv,  Hi-ocIicn 
saw  the  little  auks  {Arcficd  allc)  extend  in  an  uniiitcrniptctl 
line  full  three  miles  in  l(>n<^^th,  and  so  ch)sely  eony're<4'ate«l 
that  about  thirty  fell  at  a  single  shot.  11<,'  estimated  Ihcir 
numbers  at  about  1,0()<>,0(M>.  AVhen  they  took  fli|4'ht  they 
darkened  the  air;  and  at  the  distance  of  four  mih's  thcii- 
chorus  could  distinctly  be  heard. 

On  a  line  summer's  day,  the  bcllowiny  of  the  Avalruscs  and 
the  hoarse  bark  of  the  seals  are  minj^led  with  the  shrill  notes  cif 
thoanks,  divers,  and  gadls.  Although  all  these  tones  i»roduce 
a  by  jio  means  harmonions  concert,  yet  they  have  a  ^'leasing 
etfect,  as  denoting"  the  hapi)y  feeling's  of  so  many  creatures. 
When  the  sunverg'es  to  the  pole,  every  animal  becomes  mute, 
and  a  silence  broken  only  by  the  burstiug-  of  a  glacier  reig-ns 
over  the  whole  bay — a  remarkable  contrast  to  the  tropical 
reg'ions,  where  Nature  enjoys  her  repose  during*  the  noon-day 
heat,  and  it  is  only  after  sunset  that  life  awakens  in  the 
forest  and  the  Held. 

Four  g'laciers  reach  down  this  noble  inlet  :  one,  called  the 
Wag-g'on  AVay,  is  7,000  feet  across  at  its  terminal  clilf,  whicli 
is  oOO  feet  hig'h,  presenting-  a  mag'uiticent  wall  of  ice.  But 
the  whole  scene  is  constructed  on  so  colossal  a  scale,  that  it 
is  only  on  a  near  approa<.'h,  that  the  glaciers  of  JMag'daleuii 
Bay  appear  in  all  their  imposing"  grandeur.  In  clear  weather 
the  joint  effect  of  the  ice  under  the  Avater,  and  the  reflection  of 
the  g"lacier  wall  above,  causes  a,  remarkable  optical  delusion. 
The  water  assumi's  a  milk-white  colour,  the  seals  appeal" 
to  g-ambol  in  a  thick  cream-like  liquid,  and  the  error  oulv 
becomes  apparent  when,  on  leaning"  over  the  side  of  the  boat, 
the  spectator  looks  doAvn  into  the  transparent  depth  below. 

It  is  extremely  dangerous  to  approach  these  clitfs  of  ice. 
as  every  now  and  then  larg-e  blocks  detach  themselves  fntiii 
the  mass,  and  frequently  even  a  concussion  of  the  air  is 
enoug"li  to  make  tliein  fall. 

During  the  busy  period  of  Spit/bergen  history,  when  its 
bay  used  to  be  frequented  by  whalers  who  anchored  luider 
the  g"lacier-walls,  these  ice-avalaiiches  often  had  disastrous 
consequences.  Thus,  in  the  year  1G11>,  an  Eng'lish  ship  was 
driven  by  a  storm  into  Bell  »Sound.  While  it  was  passing 
under  a  precipice  of  ice,  a  prodigious  mass  came  thundering" 
down  upon  it,  broke  the  masts,  and  threw  the  ship  so  violently 


ici:  cLiri's  A.VK  avai,a.\(  iii;s. 


\-27 


ii|M»u  ciiic  side,  tliiit  tlit>  ca[)l,iiii  iiiid  |»iirt  of  llic  crew  were 
swept  into  tlie  st'ii.  The  captain  t'sc'a[K'(l  unlinrt,  but  two 
sailors  wi'iv  killed  and  several  others  Avniinded. 

t)ne  day  a  ^nn  was  tired  from  a  l)oat  of  tlie  'TrtMil,'  wlien 
about  liall'a  niilelVoiii  one  of  tlie  glaciers  (»f  Ma^^'daleiia  [{ay. 
liiiinediately  after  llio  report  of  the  musket,  a  noise  resembling' 
thunder  Avas  lieard  in  the  dii-eetinn  of  tlie  iee-strcam,  and  in 
a  few  seconds  more,  an  enormous  mass  detached  itself  from 
its  front,  and  fell  into  the  sea.  The  men  in  the  boat,  snj>posiny 
themselves  to  be  beyond  the  reach  of  its  intliU'iice,  were  tran- 
([uilly  contemi)latinLj;-  the  may-niiicent  siyht,  Avhen  suddenly  a 
laru'e  wave  came  sweeping-  over  the  bay,  and  cast  theii*  little 
shallop  to  a  distance  of  nim^ty-six  feet  upon  the  beach. 

Another  time,  when  Franklin  and  Beechey  had  approached 
one  of  these  ice-walls,  a  hu^'e  fraj^'ment  suddenly  slid  from 
its  side,  and  fell  Avith  a  crash  into  the  sea.  At  (irst  the 
detached  mass  entirely  disappeared  under  tlie  waters,  castin^j;' 
\\\>  ch>uds  of  spray,  but  soon  after  it  shot  up  a^ain  at  least 
]<•(»  feet  above  the  surface,  and  then  k(>[»t  rocking-  several 
minutes  to  and  fro.  When  at  len^^th  the  tumult  subsided, 
the  block  was  found  to  measure  no  less  than  l.o(H»feetin 
circmnference  ;  it  projected  GO  feet  above  the  water,  and  its 
weii^'ht  was  calculated  at  more  than  1<»0,0(»0  tons. 

Besides  the  f;'laciers  of  Ma^^'dalena  Buy,  Spitzberi^cn  has 
many  others  that  protrude  their  crystal  walls  down  to  the 
water's  edffe ;  and  vet  but  few  iceberg's,  and  tlie  larn'cst  not 
t(t  be  Compared  with  the  jn\>ductions  of  Baffin's  Bay,  are 
drifted  from  the  shores  of  Sititzbero-en  into  the  open  sea. 
The  reason  is  that  the  glaciers  usually  terminate  where  the 
sea  is  shallow,  so  that  no  very  lar^-e  mass  if  dislod^•ed  can  float 
away,  and  they  are  at  the  same  time  so  frequently  dismem- 
bered by  heavy  swells,  that  they  cannot  aitain  any^'reat  size. 

The  interior  of  Spit/l)ergvn  has  never  l)een  explored. 
According'  to  tlie   Swedish   natvwa lists,"''"  who  clindted  many 


*  Within  tile  la>t  tV'W  j'pai'.s.  iiulcss  tlian  tlnvo  soiciitifu'  i'X]i('iliii(iiis  liavclc-cii  Hen*- 
out  ti)  Spitzlii.|'j;cn  at  t!u'  cxii.nsc  dftlio  Swrdisli  liDXcrniiicnt.  T)nrini;'  the  siiiniin'i 
iif  IS.'iK,  ."Messrs.  Otto  Tuix'll,  (JiU'iinci'sti'ill,  and  Xdrdcn-kjuld  visin  d   llic  western 


irts  nt'  tlic  archiixlaL'o.     In  lS(il  t 


ill  Nortli-Hast   [<and 
Chyiloniiis,  &c.,  and  i 


ll'  \v 


li.d 


I'  coasi 


from  Ice  Sound  to  I)<ivo   ISax 


\va>- 


'iirat.'lv   invi'sti'a 


t,'(l 


i,v 


:si 


ossrs. 


Tori'll,   ^lalniixrc'i 


IHOl  Mc'SM's.  N(n'din.->kiold.  Duncr,  and  ^lalnicrcn  visited 


ihe  sontliei-n  sliores  and  Wide  Jan's  Water.    A  fourth  exj'edit 
I'ort  of  (loihcnlairf:  Mnne  1S(;S>. 


ion  lia« 


just  left  th.' 


1-js 


TIIK    I'OLAK    W'MM.I). 


(if  till' lii^'lit'st  iiKHintiiiiis  ill  various  piirla  oftlio  mast,  all 
llu'  ot'iitral  rcj^ioiis  of  tlic  arcliiiiclai^^o  I'orm  a  level  icc- 
platcaii,  iiitcrniptt'tl  ciilv  licr<'  and  tlici'c  by  driiutltMl  mcks, 
|»n»j"('tiii<^''  likf  islands  iVoni  the  crystal  sea  in  which  Ihcy 
arc  imheddcd.  The  hei;4lit  (d'this  j>latean  aliove  the  level  of 
the  ocean  is  in  ^^-eiiiTal  IVcini  K-'iOd  to  li, (»(!()  feet,  and  from 
its  frozen  solitudes  descend  (he  various  «^laciers  ubove  de- 
itcribed.  Durin^^  the  suniuier  months,  the  radiation  of  the 
sun  af  Spit/bei'i^-eii  is  always  very  intense,  the  therinonieter 
in  some  sheltered  situati(»ns  not  Si'hhnn  rising*  at  noon  lo 
(12",  (57^,  or  even  T-T.  Kveu  at  miduie^ht,  at  the  vei-y  jieak 
of  the  hiyii  mountain  ascended  by  Scoresliy,  t  h(!  power  of 
the  sun  produced  a  temperature  several  de^-rees  above  thi' 
frec/,iii;jf  point,  and  oecasioniMl  tlu'  discharge  of  streams  of 
■water  irom  the  snow-cap[)ed  siimmit.  llenc<\  though  even 
in  the  three  warmest  months  tlie  temperature  of  S[»it/bere'eii 
does  not  avera;i^e  more  than  -MV,  yet  in  the  more  southern 
}is[KH'ts,  and  particularly  wliei'e  the  warmth  of  the  sun  is 
absorbed  ami  radiated  by  blacdc  rock-walls,  the  mountains  arc 
not  seldom  bai'cd  at  an  elevation  nearly  e(]ual  to  that  of  the 
snow-line  of  Norway,  and  various  Alpine  [)lants  and  <^Tas?;es 
frequently  flourish,  nt)t  only  in  sheltered  ;  ituations  at  the 
foot  of  the  hills,  but  even  to  a  considerable  hei^^lit,  wherever 
the  disintegrated  rocks  kxlye  and  forni  a  tolerably  y-ood 
soil. 

The  Flora  of  Spit/J)er<^en  consists  of  about  ninet^'-tlireo 
species  of  llowerin^'  or  iiheno<>'amous  i>lants,  "which  fifenerally 
gTOw  in  isolated  trdts  or  patches  ;  but  the  intisses  which 
carpet  the  moist  lowlands,  and  the  still  more  hardy  lichci 
which  invest  the  rocks  with  their  thin  crusts  or  s<nn 
far  as  the  last  limits  of  veq;etation,  are  much  more  nniiic  ■>. 
»Some  of  the  plants  of  Spit/ber<4'en  are  also  found  on  ili" 
Alps,  beyond  the  snoAV-line,  at  elevations  of  from  U,()(.iO  to 
1(),(K)0  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  According*  to  Mr. 
Martins,  nothing"  can  give  a  better  idea  of  Spitsbergen  than 
the  vast  circus  of  lu'cc,  in  the  centre  of  which  rises  tiu' 
triangular  rock  known  to  the  visitors  of  Ohamouny  as  tli(! 
Jardin  or  the  Courtil.  Let  the  tonrist,  placed  on  this 
spot  at  a  time  when  the  snn  rises  but  little  above  the 
horizon,  or  better  still,  Avhen  wreaths  of  mist  hang  over  the 


n.ni{.\  .\.M>  r.M'NA  OK  si'n7,iii;i{(ii;.\. 


lii) 


to 

4r. 

liiiii 

ill." 

ilu' 

his 

til." 

the 


iiriij'hhoui'iii'^  iiioiiiit;iiiis,  JaiifV  Ihr  si':i  Itiit liiiiy  tlw  foot  ttl' 
th»'  ;iiii|ihi<h(';itiT  o!"  which  ht"  tii'(Mi|iit's  the  ci'iitrt".  mid  h"  hiix 
ii  niiiijilrfc  S[ii(/l)i'i'^'Oii  |>r<>s|M'ct  hct'ort'  him.  Sup|M>siii<4' him 
to    111'    ;i    hot:iiiis(,     the    siy'lit     of    the     h'n innirnl ii.<    ijliK  'ml i!<. 


<  'i  I". "I  ill  III    III  i>iii  II  III 


I'l  till  I'll 


I   lii'lhir'i,  iiinl    lli-'iiii'i'iHi  iniijlni'"x. 


will  >till  t'lirfhiT  iii('r("iisi'  the  illnsi(»ii. 

'riir  I'lilv  csciilclit  pliUlt  <  f  S)iit/.l>ri'o-(.u  is  the  Citcliliii fin 
hiirslruhi,  which  here  litsis  its  iicrit!  priiiciph's,  tind  cim  )••' 
c;i1('ii  lis  ii.  Siiliid.  'J'hc  ^Tiisscs  which  l\»'illi;iu  IoUimI  ;;Tt)\viii;4- 
iic;ir  some  Hiissiiiii  huts  in  Stuns  Koi-cliiiid,  iir<'  diiriii;j,'  the 
siiiiiiiici' ;i  })rcci<Mis  resource  tor  the  reindeer,  which,  thon^'h 
extieiiielv  shy,  imiKc  their  •.i[»pt'iirim('(>  from  time  to  time 
III   evei'v  |>;il't  of  the  huid  IVoiii    the   Hevcii    Isliinds  t(»    South 


•ted. 


(  .i|ie.  ;iti(l  lire  more  ii  IxiIKliillt  t  h;m  could  hilVC  UOt.'U  t!X[)i'( 
The    Pohir    heiirs    iii'c    |»rol);ihlv    their  only   iiiitivc    cueuiics 
ishinds,   iind   their  lloctucss  furnishes    tliem   with 


III    tl 


lese 


illll|'le   Uie;iiis  ol    esnipe  Iroiii    ii    ]»ul'SUer   So    elunisv    on 


land. 


lior<l   ^Nruln'rave's    ci'ew    killed    lifty   deer    (»n    Voe-elsaiie-,  a 
noted    huntiiie-    plac(",    and    on   Sir     Kilward     l^arry's  polar 


diti 


Ji 


cxjieiiition  aixMit  s<"veuty  (iet"r  were  sJiot  lu  ireureuhero-  j)ay 
liy  ine.\|ieTieuced  doei'-stalkers,  and  witlujut  the  ai«l  of  (htu's. 
huiiiiL;-  the  winter  these  larj^-e  hei-hivora  livi'  on  tlie  Icelandic 
moss  wliich  they  sceut  under  the  snow,  hut  it  uiay  wtdl  he 
a-ked  where  thev  tind  .shelter  in  a  nalce<l  wilderness  with<»nt 


a  Miii^'lt"  tree 


fu  Ml 


IV  and  JiiiK 


th 


lev  are  so  thin  as  sciireelv 


to  bo  eatable,  hut   in  Julv  tliey  hi.'i'-iii   to  <>'et  fat,  and   then 
their  tlesli  woidd  everywhere  be  reckoned  a  delieacv. 


-i( 


les  the  reind("er,  the  only  land-c[nadrupeds  of  S[>it/- 
■cn    are    the    l*olar    bear,    the  Arctic   fox,   and    a    small 
-mouse,  which  in  sununer  has  a  mottled,  and  in   winter 
a   >\  line  fill'. 

Of  the  birds,  tlie  hyperborean  Ptannij^-an  i  Lntinjiii.-^  Iii/jii^r- 
'""•"''),  wdiii-h  easily  procures  its  food  under  the  snow, 
nndoubtrdl  winters  in  Spit/.berjj;-("n,  and  probably  also  (he 
lesser  red-i  .  which  perhaps  firds  o-rass  seeds  onoueh  for 
Its  subsi  ;ee  during-  the  lono-  polar  nii^'hts,  Avhile  the 
>UK\\  bunti  ,  [I'll  cti-OjilKi lien  vivdlia),  and  the  twenty  species 
el  water-fo.J  and  waders  that  frecpient  the  shores  of  tlie 
liiu'h  northern  archipelan"o  durino-  the  summer,  all  mi^^rate 
^-oiithwards  when    the  lono-  summer's  day  \ero-es  to  its  end. 

K 


l.U) 


THE    I'UI.AR    WOULD. 


l!  ; 


Until  very  latolj,  the  Spitzberf,'en  watei's  were  sup^'osod 
to  be  poor  in  fishes,  thonyh  the  nnmerons  finbacks,  whicli 
towards  tlie  end  of  sniinner  freqnentthe  sonthern  and  soiitli- 
western  coasts,  and,  nnlike  the  hir<^-e  sniootli-back  whales, 
chieily  live  (»n  herrings,  as  Avell  as  the  troops  of  salmon- 
loving  Avhite  dolphin  seen  abont  the  estuaries  of  the  rivers, 
snfliciently  proved  the  contrary,  not  to  mention  the  herds  (if 
seals,  and  the  hosts  of  ichthyophagous  sea-birds  that  breed 
on  every  rock}^  ledge  of  the  archipelago.  Phi})ps  and 
Scoresby  mention  only  three  or  four  species  of  fishes  occur- 
ring in  the  seas  of  Spitsbergen,  while  the  Swedish  naturalist 
Mahngren,  the  first  who  seems  to  have  paid  real  attention  to 
this  interesting  branch  of  zo  )logy,  C(dlected  no  less  than 
twenty-three  species  in  18(31  and  180 1.  The  northern  shark 
{Sciinunis  microcophidnH)  is  so  abundant  that  of  late  its 
fishery  has  proved  highly  remunerative.  The  first  ship, 
M'hich  Avas  fitted  out  f()r  this  purpose  in  ]8()-J  by  Hilbert 
Pettersen,  of  Tromso,  returned  from  Bell  and  Ice  Sounds  witli 
a  full  cargo  of  sharks'  livers,  and  in  18().)  the  same  enter- 
prising merchant  sent  out  no  less  than  five  shark-shiits  to 
Spitzbergen.  The  cod,  the  common  herring,  the  shell-tisli, 
the  halibut  have  likewise  been  caught  in  the  Avaters  of 
the  archi[»elago,  and  there  is  every  reason  to  belicA'e  th;it 
their  fisherv,  Avhich  has  hitherto  be(m  entii-elv  nesflected, 
might  be  pursued  Avith  great  success. 

The  mineral  riches  of  Spitzbergen  are,  of  course,  but  littlo 
knoAvn.  Coal  of  an  excellent  quality,  Avhich  might  easily  l)e 
Avorked,  as  it  nearly  crops  out  on  the  surface  at  a  short 
distance  from  the  sea,  has,  hoAA'CA-er,  been  discoA^ered  lately  by 
Mr.  IJlomstrand  in  King's  Bay,  and  similar  strata  exist  in 
A'arious  parts  of  Bell  Sound  and  Ice  Sound.  Large  quantities 
of  drift  Avood,  prolsably  from  the  large  Siberian  rivers,  aro 
deposited  by  the  currents,  particularly  on  the  north  coasts 
of  North  "c]ast  Land,  and  on  the  sonthern  coasts  of  Staiis 
Fore  Land.  In  English  Bay,  Lord  Dufferin  saw  innumerabl' 
logs  of  unlKMvn  timber,  mingled  Avith  Avhich  lay  pieces  of 
broken  spars,  an  oai",  a  boat's  flagstaff,  and  a  few  shattt  ivd 
fragments  of  some  long  lost  A'ossel's  planking. 

Most  probably  the  N(»rAvegians  had  their  attention  directeil 
at  a  very  early  period  to  the  existence   of  a    land   lying  to 


I:ARI.Y    HISTOKV    of    SIMTZliKKCKX, 


lai 


ily  1)0 
sliovt 
■lyby 
;t  in 
[titles 

■diists 
Stalls 


•(Mil'' 


tpi-  to 


tlio  north  of  Fiiiinarkei:  by  the  troops  of  mim-rntorv  hivds 
Avliich  they  saw  riviny"  iiortlnvar<ls  in  wprin^-,  ami  l)y  the 
casual  visits  of  sea-boars,  which  the  drift-ice  carried  to  the 
south.  There  can  bo  no  donbt  that  tliey  were  the  tirst 
discoverers  of  Spitzberyen,  bnt  their  historv  contains  no 
positive  records  of  the  i'act,  and  it  was  not  beft>ro  the  six- 
iccntli  century  tliat  Europe  tirst  bocanio  acquainted  with 
Unit  desolate  archii)ela<^'o.  Sir  Ilu<;h  Wi]lou<4-hby  may 
)iossilily  liave  soon  it  in  lo.jJ),  but  it  is  certain  that  on 
,luti(.'  Il>.  IV.Mj,  Barontz,  Hoeniskerke,  and  Hyp,  "who  liad 
s;iiled  in  two  ships  from  Amsterdam  to  disccjver  the  north- 
ej'.stcrn  passaj^o  to  India,  landed  on  its  western  coast,  and 
Liave  it  tlie  name  it  bears  to  the  present  day.  in  the  year 
1(>07  it  was  visited  by  the  nnfoi'tunato  Henry  Hudson,  and 
lour  years  later  the  hrst  Eni>-lish  whalers  wore  tittcd  out  b}-- 
the  Russia  Company  in  London  to  tish  in  the  bays  of 
Siiitzber^'en  or  East  ({roenland,  as  it  was  at  that  time  called, 
bciuo-  snpposed  to  be  the  eastern  prolono-ation  of  that 
vast  island.  Here  our  countrvmen  met  with  Dutchmen, 
X(irwe<>'ians,  and  Biscavans  from  Bavonne  and  the  ports  of 
nortliei'ii  Spain,  and  commercial  rivalry  soon  led  to  the 
usual  (piarrels.  In  the  year  1()l:i,  James  I.  y-ranted  the 
liu<«-ia  Company  a  patent,  g'ivin<^  them  the  exclusive  ri^'ht 
to  tisli  in  the  Spitzber^'on  waters,  and  seven  ships  of  war 
wi'i'c  sent  out  to  enforce  their  pretensions.  The  Dutch, 
the  Xiir\vco-ians,  and  the  Biscavans  were  driven  away;  a 
cross  with  the  name  of  the  Kiny-  of  Enoland  was  erected  on 
till'  slutro,  and  Spitzber;i4'en  received  the  name  of  '  Kino- 
.lames  liis  Nowhmd.'  This  triunijih,  howeviM-,  was  but  of 
short  duration,  and  after  a  strug-g-lo,  in  whicli  none  of  the 
coHibataiits  gained  any  decisive  advantage,  all  parties  came 
at  last  to  an  amicable  agreement.  The  English  received  for 
their  share  the  best  stations  on  the  southwostern  coast, 
aioiiLi"  with  English  Bay  and  Magdalena-  Bay.  Tlu>  Dutch 
Were  oblig(^d  to  retreat  to  the  north,  and  chose  Amsterdam 
Ishtnd,  with  8meerenlierg  Bay,  as  the  seat  of  their  operations. 
The  Danes  or  Norwt^gians  established  their  headquarters  on 
I'aiie\  Island;  the  Jlaml^urgors, -vvlu*  also  came  in  for  their 
^hare.  ill  Hamburg  Bay;  and  the  French  or  liiscayans  on 
thi'  north  coast,  in  Red  Bay.     A\  present  a  right  or  smooth- 


I 


1.12 


TlfR    I'OLAU    WOULD. 


baclcod  whale  nirely  shows  itself  in  the  Spitzljer<;-eii  waters, 
but  at  that  time  it  was  so  abundant  that  Ireipiently  no  less 
than  forty  whalers  used  to  anchor  in  a  sin^-le  bay,  and  send 
out  their  boats  to  Icill  these  cetaceans,  who  came  there  for 
the  purpose  of  castinL>-  their  youn<»'  in  the  sheltered  fritlis 
and  channels.  The  fat  of  the  captui'ed  Avhales  was  im- 
mediately boiled  in  larj^-e  kettles  on  the  shore,  and  the  bavs 
of  Spit/ber<4'en  presented  a  most  animated  spectacle  duriu'^' 
the  summer  season. 

Numerous  coffins — an  underg-round  biu'ial  being'  impossible 
in  this  frost-hardened  earth- — still  bear  Avitness  to  those 
busy  times,  and  also  to  the  grrax  nioi'tality  among  the 
fishermen,  caused  doubtless  by  their  intemperate  hal)ils. 
They  are  particularly  abundant  at  Smeerenberg,  wheiv 
Admiral  Beechey  saw  upwards  of  <>n(^  thousand  of  thciii : 
hoards  with  English  inscriptions  were  erected  over  a  few, 
but  the  greater  nundjer  were  Dutch,  and  had  been  deposited 
in  the  eigliteenth  century.  Some  cotHns  having  been  opened, 
the  corpses  were  found  in  a  stat(»  of  perfect  preservation. 
and  even  the  Avoollen  caps  andstochingsof  the  mariners,  ulid 
might  perhaps  have  rested  for  more  than  a  century  o/^  tlii>- 
cold  earth,  were  still  apparently  as  new  as  if  they  had  l»eeii 
])ut  recently  put  on. 

In  the  seventeenth  century,  the  Knglish  and  the  Dutrli 
made  several  attempts  to  establish  pei'inanent  settlements  in 
iSpitzbergtnu  The  Russia  CS>mpany  tried  to  engage  vohui- 
teers  by  the  promis(>  of  a  liberal  pay,  and  as  none  came  for- 
ward, a  free  pardon  was  offered  to  criminals  who  woidd 
undertalce  to  winter  in  Bell  Sound.  A  few  wretches,  tired  nt 
coidinement,  accepted  the  proposal,  but  when  the  fleet  wns 
about  to  depart,  and  they  saw  the  gloomy  hills,  and  fMt 
the  howling  north-eastern  g-ales,  their  hearts  failed  tliem. 
and  they  entreated  the  captain  who  had  (diarge  of  tliom  \>> 
take  them  ba<dc  to  London  ami  let  them  be  hanu-ed.  'riiiii' 
recpiest  to  be  taken  back  was  complied  with,  but  the  coni|i;iiiv 
generously  intei'cede*!  for  them,  and  <d)tained  their  pardon. 

Some  time  after,  in  tin;  year  ld:|»>,  an  i'higlis''  wliaKi 
lauded  eight  men  in  liell  Sound  to  hunt  roinde<'r.  Tliev  I'l- 
mained  on  shore  during  tlio  iiiglit,  but  meaiiwliile  a  stoi'in 
l.iad   arisen,  and    ini    the  roljowinu'   niominu'   tlieir  sjiji 


n;i' 


.VTTK.MiTi:i>  si;ttij;.mi:.nts  o.v  si'itzukuokn. 


1.1. -5 


tfl's.  « 

lrs> 


'1  \v;l> 
.1     tMt 

ti'in  t" 
Tlirir 
npiiiy 
•(l(tn. 
vli.iK'i' 

t'V    IV- 
stiTlll 

1,11.1 


ssil)K' 

X  till' 
III  bits, 
wlliiv 
:lu'i»i  : 
I  few. 
ositc'l 

[HMli'il. 

•;iti"ii.      ^ 

S,   wild 


t: 


I 

r 


Viiiiislifd  (»iif  (if  sii^lit.      H    WHS  towiinls  tlu'  ciul  oi'  Auo-nst, 
;iiiil  flicy  liiul   uo  lidite  ol'  resent' at  tliis  iKlvtinced  pei'itxl  of 

till'    \ViiV. 

Tlieir  (lesuiiir  mav  b*;*  iiuau'im'd,  but  thcv  soon  recovered 
their  (:'(»nrii:^'e,  iiiul  wisely  tlotennined  to  iiiake  preparations 
t'nv  tiie  inipendini^' Avinter,  instea<l  of  losing-  time  in  nseless 
laiiieiitations.  Their  tirst  care  was  t<>  lay  in  a  stock  of  food, 
;iii(l  ill  a  short  time  they  had  killed  nineteen  reindeer  and 
lour  Ijcars.  Fortunately  they  found  in  Bell  Sound  the  neces- 
sary materials  for  the  erection  of  a  hut.  A  lar;4'e  shed  iifty 
feet  loni>-  and  thirty-ei^dit  broad,  had  been  built  as  a  workshop 
tor  the  men  of  the  liussia  Company,  and  they  very  judiciously 
cr.iistructed  their  small  hut  of  stones  and  thick  planks  within 
this  enclosed  space.  Th<'y  thns  y-ained  a  better  protection 
,iL:ainst  the  icy  wind  and  room  for  exercise  durinj^-  stormy 
weatiiei",  one  (»f  the  best  preservatives  a*>'ainst  the  scurvy. 
They  made  their  beds  and  winter  dresses  of  the  skins  of 
the  aninnils  they  had  killed,  sewin<^'  them  to^^vther  Avith 
needles  made  of  bone  sjdlnters  and  usin<4'  disentangled  rope 
iiids  as  thread. 

Their  hut  was  ready  by  .Septend)t'r  12,  and  t(»  i)reserve  their 
<ai>|»ly  of  meat  as  loui;  as  possible,  they  lived  four  days  of  the 
week  on  the  otfal  of  whales'  lat  which  lay  scattered  about  in 
-reat  plenty.  From  October  lM;  to  j»\'bruary  Jo,  they  saw  no 
-WW.  and  from  the  l-'lth  to  the  olst  of  December  n(»  twili-jht. 
'I'he  new  year  bepin  with  excessive  cold  ;  every  piece  of  metal 
they  touched  stuck  to  their  tin^'ers  like  lilue,  and  their  skin 
hciame  blistered  when  exposed  to  tlieair.  The  reaitjiearance 
"f  the  sun  was  as  a  resurrection  from  death.  T'o  increase 
tli'  ii"  joy,  they  saw  two  bears  on  the  ice,  one  of  which  they 
killed,  liut  they  found,  what  has  since  been  fretpiently  ex})e- 
i'i''iice(l  !»y  others,  that  the  liver  of  the  animal  has  poisonous 
i|iialities.  itv  is  at  least  yrry  unwholesome,  for,  aftei- eat  in^-  it, 
ilicv  were  all  attacked  \vith  a  kind  of  eruptive  ft'ver,  and  their 
'.i'l  [iceled  otf.  Towards  the  middle  of  March,  their  ])ro- 
-.  'lis  weiv  well  ni;4'h  exhausted,  but  tln^  [tolarl)ears  appear- 
iiiu'  more  IVe(inently  reiilenishcd  their  stock.  SooJi  also  the 
iiiiu"rat"i'y  birds  arri\cd  from  the  south,  the  foxes  crept  out  of 
tlieir  liurrows,  and  many  wci-e  caught  in  traps.  On  June  .■), 
the  ici' lico'an  to  break  up.  and  on  the  loljowiii:^'  ni<a  iiiie^' one- 


■M 


THE    roLAK    WOKI.K. 


II    I 


liiilf  of  the  biiy  was  open.  A  <jfale  forced  tlieni  to  seek  tJie 
shelter  of  their  hnt.  There  seated  round  the  fire,  they  spoki^ 
of  their  approiiehinn-  delivery,  when  suddenly  a  loud  halloo 
was  heard.  They  immediately  rushed  out  into  the  open  air, 
and  hardly  believed  their  eyesi^-ht,  for  they  were  <4Teeted  l)y 
their  comrades  of  the  previous  summer,  and  saw  their  own 
Avell-lcnown  ship  at  anchor  in  the  bay.  Thus  were  these 
brave-hearted  men  rescued  after  a  ten  months'  exile  in  tli(,' 
latitude  of  77°. 

The  itossibility  of  winteriu'*'  iu  Spitzbei'gen  havin<^'  thus 
been  proved,  some  volunteers  belonjj,iny,*  to  the  Dutch  ileet 
Avere  induced  by  certain  emoluments  to  attempt  the  same 
ejiterprise  on  Amsterdam  Island  ;  but,  less  fortunate  than 
their  predecessors,  they  all  fell  victims  to  the  scurvy.  A 
diary  which  they  left  behind  recorded  the  touchin<j;'  history 
of  their  sntt'erino-s.  '  Four  of  us,'  these  were  its  last  words, 
'  are  still  alive,  stretched  out  flat  upon  the  floor,  and  mi<4lit 
still  be  able  to  eat  if  one  of  us  had  but  the  stren<>-th  to  rise 
and  fetch  some  food  and  fuel,  but  we  are  all  so  wealc,  and 
every  movement  is  so  painful,  that  we  are  incapable  of  stir- 
ring-. We  constantly  x»i'ay  to  God  soon  to  release  us  fnnii 
our  suffering's,  and  truly  we  cannot  live  much  longer  without 
food  and  warmth.  None  of  us  is  able  to  help  the  others, 
and  each  must  bear  his  burthen  as  well  as  he  can.' 

f^ince  that  time  both  the  English  and  the  Dutch  liav(^ 
g'iven  up  the  idea  of  forming*  pennanent  settlements  iu 
Spitzberg-en,  but  scarcely  a  year  passes  that  some  Russians 
and  Norwegians  do  not  winter  iji  that  high  northei-n  hnid. 
As  far  back  as  the  seventeentli  century,  the  former  used  to 
send  out  their  clumsy  but  strc  i,^"ly  built  '  lodjes '  of  from 
CO  to  100  tons  from  the  jiorts  of  Archangel,  Mesen,  Onega, 
Kola,  and  other  places  bordering  the  White  Sea,  to  chase  the 
various  animals  of  S]»itzbergen,  the  rei»ideer,  the  seal,  the 
bfduga,  but  chiefly  the  Avalrus,  the  most  valuable  of  all. 
These  vessels  leave  home  in  July,  or  as  soon  as  the  navigation 
of  the  White  Sea  opens,  and  as  the  shortness  of  the  season 
hardlv  allows  tlnun  to  return  in  the  same  year,  they  i»ass  the 
winter  in  some  sheltered  bay.  Their  first  care  on  landing  is 
to  erect  a  large  cross  on  the  shore,  a  ceremony  they  repeat  on 
lea\ing.  and  such  is  fhoir  religious  faith  that  under  the  pro- 
b'ction  of  that  holv  s\  iiibnl    thov  nioclc  all   tlu^  te^Toi's  of  tlio 


iiLNTixci  ix  ,srrrzni:R(ii:x, 


I 


Aretii"  -winter.  Nour  tlio  place  where  tlieir  vessels  are  laid 
II]).  they  build  a  lar^'e  lint  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  leet 
s(juar(',  which  is  nsed  as  a  station  and  nia^-azine  ;  bnt  the  huts 
used  by  the  men  who  <^'o  in  quest  ol*  skins,  and  which  are 
cfccted  at  distances  of  from  ten  to  fifty  versts  alon<>'  the  shore, 
iirc  only  seven  or  ei^lit  feet  square.  The  smaller  huts  are 
usually  occnjned  by  two  or  three  men,  who  take  care  to  pro- 
vi<lt'  themselves  from  the  storehouse  with  the  necessary  pro- 
visions for  the  winter.  Scoresby  visited  several  of  these 
lulls,  some  constriicted  of  loys,  others  of  deal  two  in(dies 
in  thickness.  They  are  of  the  same  kind  as  those  used  by 
llic  peasants  in  liussia,  and,  being  taken  out  in  pieces,  are 
erected  ^^ith  but  little  trouble  in  the  most  convenient  situa- 
lioH.  The  stoves  are  built  with  bricks,  or  with  clay  found  in 
llie  country.  Diu-in^-  the  stay  of  the  hunters,  they  emi)loy 
themselves  in  kiHin;Li;  seals  or  walruses  in  the  water,  and  bears, 
iox<'S,  deer,  or  whatever  else  they  meet  with  on  land.  Each 
slii[)  is  furni:^hed  with  provisions  for  eii^hteen  nK>nths,  con- 
sisting- of  rye  flour  for  bread,  oatmeal,  barley-meal,  peas,  salt 
Ijeef,  salt  cod,  and  salt  halibut,  together  with  curdled  milk, 
hniiey,  and  linseed  oil;  besides  which  they  enjoy  the  flesh 
of  the  animals  which  they  kill.  Their  drink  consists  chiefly  of 
7"".x',  a  national  beverage  made  from  rye  flour  and  water ;  malt 
or  s[ii!ituous  li(piors  being  entirely  forbidden  to  prevent 
(Ivunkeimess,  as,  when  they  were  allowed  it,  they  drank  so 
iiii moderately  that  their  Avork  was  often  altogether  neglected. 
Their  fuel  for  the  most  part  is  brought  with  them  from  llussia, 
ami  drift  wood  is  used  for  the  same  puri)ose. 

The  hunters,  seldom  travelling  far  in  wiiitei",  make  their 
short  excursions  on  foot  on  snow-skates,  and  draw  their  food 
afler  them  on  hand  sledges.  Not  seldom  they  are  overtaken 
hy  ieri'ilic  snowstorms,  Aviiieh  force  them  to  throw  Uiemselves 
Hat  uiiou  the  ground,  and  sometinu's  even  cost  them  their 
lives.  Tluur  b(>st  preservation  against  the  scurvy  is  bodily 
exercise;  they  also  use  the  Corhli'uria  fnicxlratn,  which  grows 
wild  ill  the  country,  either  eating  it  without  any  preparation, 
or  drinking  the  liquor  prepared  i'voin  it  by  infusion  in  water. 
^  cl.  ill  spite  of  all  their  precautions,  they  often  fall  a  prey  to 
lliis  terrible  scourge.  In  the  year  1771,  Mr.  Steward,  of 
Whithy,  landed  in  King's  Bay  to  gather  drift  wood,  and  found 
;i  I'ussian  hut.     After  having  vaiulv  called  for  admittance. 


I  :$() 


TIIK    I'ol.AK    WOKIJ). 


thvy  t>pci)(.'d  it,  and  toinid  a  corpsu  strctt'licd  (»ul  on  the 
o-rouiid,  its  luco  covered  with  j^reen  mould.  Most  likely  the 
iinfortuiiate  man,  luiviiiL;'  buried  all  liis  comrades,  liad  as  the 
last  survivor  found  jio  one  to  ijerformthe  same  kind  office  I'oi- 
himself,  (leuerally  the  Russian  hunte]\s,  after  speudiiijj;'  tlie 
winter  in  Spitzberm'en,  retiirn  home  in  the  followino-  Au<^'ust  on 
Septembex';  but  their  stay  is  often  prolonged  durino-  several 
years;  and  Scharostin,  a,  venerable  Russian,  who  died  in  182(; 
in  Ice  Sound,  is  deservedly  remarkable  for  having-  sj>ent  no 
less  than  thirty-two  Avinters  of  his  lonij,'  life  in  that  hioh 
northern  land,  where  lie  once  remaini'd  during,'  lifteen  con- 
secutive years.  Surely  this  man  ou^'lit  to  iiave  beencrowneil 
kino-  of  Spilzbero'en — 

Oil  :i  I  liiDiic  (if  l'.ll•k^,  in  a  I'libr  dl' cIdUiI,-, 

Wil  h  ,1  iliaili'iii  111'  Miow  I 

Every  year,  at  the  beoinnino-  of  summer,  about  a  do/en 
vessels  leave  the  ports  of  Jiaunnerfest  and  Tromso  for  Spitz- 
bero'fii.  Formerly  it  was  a  very  comnion  thin^'  for  them  tn 
procure  three  cargoes  of  walrus  and  seals  in  a  season,  and  less 
than  two  full  car<!^oes  was  considered  very  bad  luck  indeed  ; 
now,  however,  it  is  a  rare  thin^-  to  yvt  more  than  one  caryo 
in  a  season,  and  many  vessels  return  home  after  four  months' 
absence  only  half  full.  Y(?t,  in  spite  of  this  diminution,  tlie 
mimbers  of  walruses  still  existing'  in  that  country  an.'  very 
considerable,  particularly  on  the  northern  banks  and  skerries, 
which  ai'e  only  accessible  in  open  seasons,  (^r  perhaps  once  in 
every  thri'e  or  four  summers,  and  where  consequently  tlu^ 
persecuted  aiumals  o-et  a  little  breathing-  time  to  bre(^<l  and 
vepltMiish  their  numbers. 

AI)ont  midway  between  Hammerfest  and  Spitzbei^'en  lies 
Bear  Island,  ori<>'inallv  discoveivd  bv  Barent/  on  June  i),  l.jiXI. 
Seven  years  later,  Stephen  Bennet.  a  shipmaster  in  the  service 
of  the  Muscovy  Company,  while  on  a  voya^-f  of  discovery  in  ;i 
north-easterly  direction,  likewise  saw  Bear  Island  c»n  Auy-usr 
1(1.  lo-norant  of  its  previous  discovery  by  Barentz,  hi'  cal!"d 
it  Cherie  Island,  after  Sir  Francis  Oherie,  a  member  of  tlic 
c(»mpaiiy,  and  to  this  day  both  names  are  used. 

Bennet  foiuid  some  walruses  on  its  desert  shores,  and 
returned  in  the  followiuo-  year  with  a  Vfsstd  fitted  out  by  a 
merchant  of  the  name  of  Welden,  to  wa^c  war  with  thcsi' 


I 


i 


St 'a 
nt 

tli; 

I  I'tH 
lill 

Si  (II 

|.n. 

Wl'l 

tlh' 
e\t' 


rlJMATK    (tr    niOAIi    ISLAM). 


1.S7 


II'S, 


IIHil 


li'il 
ill.' 


S(';i-iii(nist('i's.  His  lirst  opcnitiuiis  were  not  very  siu'ccssl'iil. 
(H";i  licrd  (tt'iit  Iciist  ii  thuiisiind  walvvises,  lie  IvHUmI  no  more 
tliiiii  tlftt'eii,  iiii<l  a  liitor  iittuek  iqxm  iin  cquallv  oiioniious 
ti'<i(>|)  raised  tlie  entire  nuiidjer  of  liis  viclinisto  no  more  tluiii 
tit'ty.  Their  tusks  ak»ne  were  brou^-ht  aAvay,  and  alont;"  witli 
suiiie  loose  ones  coUected  on  tlie  beaeli  formed  the  chief 
[imdiico  of  the  expedition.  At  first  the  unwieMy  creatures 
were  fired  at,  but  as  the  bidk'ts  made  no  ^-reat  impression  on 
their  tiiick  hides,  o-ra])e  siiot  was  now  disehar«4'ed  into  their 
eyes,  and  tlie  blinded  animals  were  tinally  killed  with  axes. 

In  tlie  followhi*:;-  year,  Welden  himself  proceeded  to  Bear 
Island,  and  the  art  of  \valrus-killin<^-  j^-radually  improvin*:;-  by 
pi-actice,  this  second  expedition  proved  far  more  protitable 
tlian  the  hrst.  Care  had  also  been  taken  to  provide  larLie 
ki'ltles  and  the  necessary  fuel  to  boil  their  fat  on  the  spot, 
so  that  l»esides  the  tusks  a  quantity  of  oil  was  "gained.  In 
I  (KM),  Ik'unet  ai;-ain  appeared  on  the  field  of  action,  and  the 
dexterity  of  the  walrus-huuters  had  now  become  so  great 
that  in  less  than  six  hours  they  killed  mon>  than  700,  which 
yielded  twenty-two  tons  (»f  oil.  During  the  following  voyage, 
Welden,  who  seonsto  have  acted  in  partnership  with  Bennet, 
I'ach  taking  his  turn,  kilh'd  no  less  than  1,000  walruses  in 
seven  hours.  Thus  Bear  Island  proved  a  mine  of  Avealth  to 
these  enterprising  men,  and  though  the  walruses  are  not 
now  so  abundant  as  in  the  good  old  times,  yet  they  are  still 
suitieiently  numerous  to  attract  the  attention  of  specidators. 
Every  year  several  expeditions  proceed  to  its  shores  from 
the  Russian  and  Norwegian  ports,  and  genei'ally  some  men 
|i!iss  til"  winter  in  huts  erected  on  its  Jiorthern  and  south 
eastern  coasts. 

Considering  its  high  northern  latitude  of  7-^  ,  the  climate 
of  Bear  Island  is  uncommonly  mild.  Accordijig  to  the  reports 
ot*  some  Norwegian  walrus-huuters,  who  remained  there  from 
1S21  to  1S2(),  the  cold  was  so  moderate  during  the  lirst 
winter  that,  until  the  middle  of  Novendier,  the  snow  which 
It'll  in  the  night  melted  during  the  daytime,  it  raiiu'd  at 
Christmas,  and  seventy  walrusi'S  were  killed  during  Christmas 
week  by  the  light  of  the  moon  and  that  of  the  Aurora. 
I.ven  in  h'ebruary  the  weather  was  so  mild  that  the  men 
were  able  to  work  in  the  oj»en  air  under  the  same  latitude  as 
.Melville    Island,  where   niercurv  is   a    solid   bod\  dnriiiL;-  li\'e 


l.JS 


TllK    POLAR    WORLD. 


I'    I 

I 

! 

I'      ' 

I' 

Ij 
li 


Dionths  oftlu-  year.  The  cold  did  not  becoiiie  iiitoiiso  licloro 
Miireli,  and  attained  its  niaxiinnni  in  April,  when  the  sea 
froze  fast  round  the  island,  and  the  whit(!  bears  appeared 
"whicdi  had  been  absent  diirin<^'  the  whole  winter.  The  seecnid 
winter  was  more  severe  than  the  first,  biit  even  then  the  sea 
remained  open  till  the  middle  of  Novend)er — evidently  in 
(•onseqnen(,*e  of  the  prevailin<|  sonth-westerly  winds.  The 
greater  part  of  Bear  Island  is  a  desolate  plateau  raised  about 
100  or  200  feet  above  the  sea.  Along'  its  western  shores 
rises  a  jj^rmp  of  thrc«>  mountains,  supposed  to  be  about  200 
feet  hig'li,  and  towards  the  south  it  terminates  in  a  solitary 
hill  to  which  the  tirst  discoverers  •^•avethe  appropriate  name 
of  Mount  Misery.  At  the  northern  foot  of  this  terrace- 
shaped  elevation,  the  plateau  is  considerably  depressed,  and 
forms  a  kind  of  oasis,  where  f>Tass  {l\>a  2)ratcHsif<),  enlivened 
with  violet  eardamines  and  white  polyo-onnms  and  saxifra<4"as, 
<>'rows  to  half  a  yard  in  heig'ht.  The  general  character  of  the 
small  island  is,  however,  a  monotony  of  stone  and  morass, 
with  here  and  there  a  patch  of  snow,  while  the  coasts  have 
been  worn  by  the  action  of  the  waves  into  a  variety  of  fan- 
tastic shapes,  bordered  in  some  parts  by  a  flat  narrow  strand, 
the  favorite  resort  of  the  walrus,  and  in  others  aft'ording' 
convenient  breeding-pluces  to  liosts  of  sea-birds.  In  Coal 
Bay,  four  parallel  seams  of  coal,  about  equidistant  from  each 
other,  are  visible  on  the  vertical  rock  walls,  but  they  are  too 
thin  to  be  of  any  practical  use. 

Bear  Island  has  no  harbours,  and  is  consequently  a  rather 
dangerous  place  to  visit.  During  the  first  expedition  sent 
out  from  Hammerfest,  it  hai)pened  that  some  of  the  men 
who  had  been  landed  were  abandoned  by  their  ship,  which 
was  to  have  cruised  along  the  coast,  while  they  were  hunting 
on  shore.  But  the  current,  the  wind,  and  a  dense  fog  so 
confused  the  ignorant  captain  that,  leaving  them  to  their 
fate,  he  at  once  returned  to  Hammerfest.  When  the  men 
became  aware  of  their  dreadful  situation,  they  determined  to 
leave  the  island  in  their  boat,  and  taking  with  them  a  quantity 
of  young  walrus  llesli,  they  luckily  reached  Northkyn  after 
a  vovage  of  eight  davs.  It  seems  almost  incredible  that 
these  same  people  immediately  after  revisited  Bear  Island  in 
the  same  shij),  and  were  agai}i  obliged  to  return  to  N(»r\viiy 
in  th<»  same  boat.     Th«^  ship  had  iinchored  in  the  open  bay  of 


I 


hi 


TlIK    ISLAM*    or    .lA.V    MKVKX. 


l;if> 


Xorth  Kiivcii,  iin<l  hiivin<r  tulcoii  in  its  eni'fij'o,  oon.sistiiio-  of 
ISO  wiilnises,  which  had  all  hcon  killed  in  a  few  days,  was 
iiI)out  to  leave  when  a  storm  arose  which  oast  it  ashore,  and 
hroke  it  to  pieces.  The  Russians  had  bnilt  some  huts  in  the 
neiuhliourhood.  and  the  i>rt>visions  mi^ht  prohably  have  been 
savi'd,  but  rather  than  winter  in  the  island  the  crew  resolved 
to  venture  honu'  a<,'ain  in  the  boat.  This  was  so  snnill  that 
one-half  of  them  were  oblij^-od  to  lie  down  on  the  bottom 
while  the  others  rowed  ;  the  antumn  was  already  far  ad- 
vanced, and  they  enconntered  so  sava^'e  a  storm,  tluit  an 
En^'lish  ship  they  fell  in  with  at  the  North  Cape  vaiidy 
endeavoured  to  take  them  on  board.  After  a  ten  days' 
voyaj^'e,  however,  they  safely  arrived  at  Maf;'en'»,  thus  provin<^ 
the  truth  of  the  old  saylno-  that  "  Fortune  favours  the  bold." 
The  distance  from  Bear  Island  to  North  Cape  is  about  sixty 
nautical  miles. 

In  a  straight  line  between  Spitzberf^en  and  Iceland  lies 
Jan  Meyen,  Avhich,  exposed  to  the  cold  Creenland  current, 
almost  perpetually  veiled  with  mists,  and  surrounded  by 
drift  ice,  wouhl  scarcely  ever  be  disturl)ed  in  its  dreary 
solitude  but  for  the  numerous  walrus  and  seal  herds  that 
fre([uent  its  shores.  The  ice-bears  and  the  wild  sea  birds 
are  its  only  inhal)itants  ;  once  some  Dutchmen  attempted  to 
Avinter  there,  but  the  scurvy  SAvept  them  all  away.  Its  most 
remarkable  features  are  the  volcano  Eskand  the  huge  moun- 
tain Beerenborg-,  towering-  to  the  height  of  0,870  feet,  with 
seven  enormous  glaciers  sweeping-  down  its  sides  into  the  sea. 


lat 
in 
ay 
of 


w 


!« 


The   Plaiir.igan. 


Hi 


:&^: 


Abaiidoi.c  !  Vnssei  o;i  ai,  Arctic  Shoig. 


x;-2 


CHAPTER  XI. 

N  0  \'  A  "S'  A    /,  !•:  M  T.  ^'  A . 

Tlio  Sc;i  ()t']\a:'a — liUM'likiii  Ito.-iiiv  >-.lii\v  l.iilkn — K'l'otow  I'aclii  n>.S'i\v — SaiU 
along  llio  l''Mst('ru  ("(lasl  dl'  the  Soiulicrn  Islaml  t"  MatnM'likiii  Si'liar-- 1  li- 
Scc'iiiiil  \'(iya!j;(' ainl  I)calli  .Milrni'oloii-ii'al  Olisci-vat  inii^  nf  /iwnllca  Tlif  CuM 
SniniiM  r  nl'  Nnvava  /liiilva  \'ii!i  liacr's  sricni  it'u'  N'oyaizc  In  \>i\iiya  /ciiilya 
—  His  A'lviiiliii'i"-  ill  .Malnsrlikiii  Srliar  Sturm  in  l\nstiii  Sciiar— Sea  ISalli  ainI 
\'iili\i'  ('|■lls^ --IJulaiiical  Olix'i'vat  inn-- — A  natural  (iai'dm — Si)litii(li'  and  Silciin' 
A  I'lirl-IIa/aar      II  iint  iiig  Ivxiu'dil  inns  nt' tlir  Iviissiaiis  In  Ninaya  /cinlya. 

^PlIE  soil  of  Kani,  l)f)uii(l('(l  on  tlic  west  by  IS^wayii  Zt'iulyji. 
L  iMid  on  tlic  I'ast  by  tlu>  vast  peninsula  of  Tajninrland,  is 
olio  of  the  most  inhospitable  ])arts  of  tlio  inhospitable  Polar 
( )('oan.  For  ail  the  ice  which  tho  oast -westerly  marine  currents 
drift  »lurin<i:  tho  suiMdm^-  aloii;^'  tho  Siberian  coasts  accnmu- 
latos  in  that  immense  land-h)ckod  bay,  and  almost  constant  Iv 
bloclvs  the  ^"ato  of  Kara,  as  the  straits  have  boi'U  named  that 
separate  Novaya  Zendya  from  the  island  of  Wai<4"at/. 

The   rivers  Jenissei    and   ()l)i.   which   remain  fro/on  over 
until  late  ill  June,  lih(>\vise  discliarLi'e  their  \'ast  masses  of  ice 


>:el 


^i4&5 


^ 


-/• 


■^.. 


lllll 


V 

l1 


;  ,,^N^  ^^%mi3^m  -^Wi^/f 


Allelic    llllill    Mt  INIAIN. 


i;\iM,(ti;\Ti<».\   t>i'  i'.\(  iiTissow 


i-u 


iiitiitlit'  "^iilr  <'t"  K';il'ii,  S(i  lliiii  \vt'  ciiiiiol  \\i  iiilti'  Ili;i1  llir 
(•lislcni  cniist  ol'  .\u\.iy;i  Zriiil  \  .1 .  tVi  iiit  i  i|m' u  st'ii  w  liicll  ()|i|M»St's 
iiliimsf  iiisii|>ci'iil)li'  iiltstacli's  \n  tin'  Arctic  iiii\  in'iitor,  Ims  i-c- 
iiiiiiiH'il  ;iliii(>sl  l<it;illv  iiiiKiiowii  until  I  s:|:;.  wliilc  t  lie  wcslcni 
coast ,  ('.\|)usf(l  to  tlic(!iiir  SfrciDii,  ami  liatlicd.  in  simnncr 
at  least,  l>_v  a  vast  (>|h>ii  ocean,  lias  loii";  iieen  ti'a<'eil  in  all  its 
cliirf  oiil lines  on  t  he  iiiaii. 

Tlie  walfiis-huntei'  Losclikiii  is  indeed  said  to  have  saih'd 
ahaiL:'  the  whole  eastern  coast  of  \ova_\a  Zenilva  in  the  last 
ccnturv.  hilt  we  lia\('  no  authentic  records  of  his  voyn^^v, 
ami  at  a  latei'  period  I'osnivsslow,  who.  peiiet  rat  Iii^"  throuyli 
Ma1hew"s  Straits,  <ir  Maloschkiu  Sclnir,  found  Xovavii  Zenilya 
to  consist  of  two  lar^'e  islands,  investie'aled  hut  a  small  ynvi 
of  those  uidviiown  shores.  I'roin  ISp.Mo  1,S2I,  th<'  Russian 
lidvernnieiit  sent  out  uo  less  thiiu  livi^  ex])editioiis  to  the 
sea  of  K'ara  ;  the  fainotis  circuuinavi^ator  Admiral  Liitke 
emleavoured  no  less  tliau  four  times!  lo  advinuH'  a1on|4'  tlio 
eayteru  foast  of  Noviiyn  Zemlya,  but  all  these  eii'orts  ]tr(>vod 
fruitless  against  the  suinn-ior  powov  of  a  storuiy  iiud  ice- 
hlockeil  s(^a.  Yot  in  spite  of  these  repoatcd  failures,  two  eii- 
lerjivisinn"  men  l\loki>w.  a  chief  inspector  of  foiwsts,  and 
I'.raiidi,  a  rich  mei'chant  of  Ai'diaiipd  -  iitted  out  three 
ships  in  ]><'-\'l  for  the  ])in'pose  of  solvini;'  the  mysteries  of 
the  sea  of  jvara. 

One  of  thest."  vess('ls,  commanded  hy  Lieutenant  Krotow, 
was  to  penetrate  throneh  ]Ma.the\v\s  Straits,  and,  liavine- 
leached  tlieir  eastern  outlet,  to  sail  thence  across  the  sea,  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Ohi  and  the  Jenisscu  ;  hut  notliin^"  more  Avas 
lieanl  of  the  ill-lated  ship  after  its  first  separati<(n   from   its 


t  Ki 


N( 


com[ianions  at  ivanm  iNos. 

The  second  ship,  wliich  was  to  sail  aloii^'  the  western 
Coast  of  NoNaya  Zemlya,  and,  if possiMe,  to  round  its  n(»rthern 
extremity,  was  more  fortunate,  for  thouoh  it  never  reached 
that  point,  it  returned  home  Avith  a  rich  (.-ar^o  of  walrus-teeth. 

The  third  ship,  finally,  under  Pachtiissow's  c(>nunand,  was 
to  penetrate  throu^•h  the  yate  of  Kaia,  and  from  thence  to 
[»roceed  alono-  the  eastern  coast.  When  Pachtussow,  accordiuLC 
lo  his  instructions,  had  I'eadied  the  straits,  all  liis  efforts  to 
effect  a  passau'e  proved  ineii'ectiial.  It  was  in  vain  he  more 
tluiii  oiH-t'  steered  to   ilif  i-ast.  f!u'   storiin.   weather  ami   lar^'e 


142 


TIIK    I'ULAIi    WUltlJ). 


inassos  oi'  drift  ic'  coiistaiitly  threw  him  Lade,  tlio  short 
sumnu'r  iipproached  its  end,  and  thus  ho  was  obli^'nl  to  put 
oft*  all  fnrtlKM-  att(Mn))ts  to  tho  next  year,  iii)d  to  settle  for  th<> 
winter  ill  lloeky  Bay  within  the  y-ate  of  Kara.  A  small  hut 
was  built  out  of  the  drift-wood  found  on  the  S])<»t,  and  joined 
b}'  lueans  of  a  <4-allery  of  sail-eh>th  to  a  bathino'-rooin,  that 
indispensable  eonifort  of  a  Kussiau.  The  laying'  of  traps  in 
whieh  many  Arctic  foxes  Averc  cauj^-ht,  and  the  carryinj^-  of 
the  wood,  which  had  sonietini(>s  to  be  fetched  from  a  distance 
of  ten  versts,  occupied  the  crew  duriuf^  fair  weather.  In 
April,  a  i)arty  under  Pachtussow's  command  set  out  for  the 
pur])ose  of  ex})lorin;j^  the  western  coast.  On  this  expedition 
they  were  overtaken  on  the  twentA-fovu'th  day  of  the  month 
by  a  terrible  snow  storm,  Avhich  oldiiivd  them  to  throw  them- 
selves Hat  u[>  Ml  the  Ljroinid,  to  ;i  dd  bein^-  swept  aAvay  1)y  the 
wind.  They  remained  three  days  without  food  under  the 
snow,  as  it  was  im])OSsibh'  for  them  to  reach  the  depot  of  pro- 
visions buried  a  few  versts  (»tf. 

On  June  2J',  the  pite  of  Kara  was  at  leno'th  (>p(>n,  and 
Pachtussow  would  i^dadly  have  sailed  throun'h  the  passao-e, 
but  his  ship  was  fast  in  the  ice.  He  therefore  resolved,  in 
order  to  make  the  best  use  of  his  time,  to  examine  the  eastern 
coast  in  a  boat,  and  reached  in  this  manner  the  small 
8aAvina  River,  Avhere  he  found  a,  Avorxlen  cross  Avith  the  ihite 
of  17  1-2.  Most  likely  it  had  been  pla<'ed  there  by  Loschkin, 
his  predecessor  on  the  path  of  discovery.  H<'  now  returned 
with  his  boat  to  the  ship,  Avhicdi,  after  an  ini]n'isonment  of 
2'.*7  days,  Avas  at  leni^th,  July  11,  abh^  to  leave  the  bay. 

On  Stadolski  Isliind,  near  C^ipt^  Menschikolf,  they  found  a 
wretched  hut.  Avhicdj  ])roved  tliat  thev  Avere  not  the  lirst  to 
penetrate  into  these  deserts.  But  the  hut  Avas  tenanfless, 
and  a  nund)er  oi'  human  bones  Avere  strcAvn  over  t)ie  (around. 
One  of  Pachtussow's  companions  now  related  that  in  \X2'2  a 
Hamojede,  named  Mawei.  had  <^one  Avithhis  Avifeand  childn-n 
to  Novaya  Zeiulya.  and  had  never  returned.  On  ^^-atherinn" 
the  bones,  they  Avere  found  to  eonipose  the  skeletons  ttf  two 
childriMi  and  of  a  woman.  l)ut  no  remains  could  be  discov(n"ed 
of  the  num.  Most  likely  the  unforluiiate  sa\au'e  had  b.'eii 
sui'prised  by  a  snoAV  storjn.  or  Jiad  fallen  a  ]»rev  to  a  hunj^Ty 
ic(>-bear,  on  oui'  of  his  excursions,  and  his  familv,  deprive^ 
of  tlieii'  !>np|ioi'i.  had  died  of  huuLi-er  in  Ihe  jiut. 


NOVAVA    Zi:.\ll,VA. 


143 


111 
'I'll 


il.TO 


:iii. 


K.'n 


(iT 


\r. 


111(1 


IV  n 


Mu'j; 


w  0 


•t'll 
Ili'vv 


ivca 


I 


OiiJiilv  l!>,  tlu'V  n';iclH>il  llii'  river  (Staw'urMi,  and  on  tlio 
21st  Liltke's  Bay,  ^vliorc  a  nuiiiltcrol' wliito  dolphins  and  seals 
(.I*  an  uiilcnnwn  s[>i'ci('s  were  t'ouiid.  Hcrt*  coiitrarv  winds 
iirrcstt'd  the  proLi'ress  dt'  tlic  navi^'ators  durin;^"  ci^'litccn 
(lavs.  <  )ii  Au^'ust  1;'),  Pachtuss(t\v  ciiltTi'd  Matosclikin  Scliar, 
iiiid  reached  its  wi'slcrn  mouth  <>n  the  IKtli,  'J'lms  he  siie- 
(•(■(•di'd  at  least  in  eircuninavii;'atiii<4"  the  southern  island, 
which  no  one  luid  achieved  hefore  him,  and  as  his  exhausted 
jirevisious  did  not  allow  him  to  spend  a  second  winter  in 
Nn\aya  Zendya,  lie  resolved  to  return  at  once  to  Archauj^'el. 
liiit  contrary  winds  drove  him  to  the  island  of  Kol^'ujew, 
II nd  i hence  to  the  month  of  the  Petsehora,  Avhere,  on  Sep- 
tenil'ei'  ■■).  a  dreadful  storm  at  len^'th  shattered  his  crazy 
vessel.  l"he  crew  I'onnd  refu^-e  in  ft  hut,  hut  this  also  was 
1il!e(l  hy  tlie  wat(n- ;  so  that  they  had  to  wade  several  versts 
hefore  they  could  reach  the  dry  land. 

I'achtussow  now  travelled  by  way  of  Archangel  and  Oiu^p-a 
to  8t.  Petershur^-h,  Avhere  he  communicated  the  r«.'sults  of 
his  journey  to  the  minister  of  marine,  who  ij-ave  liini  a  nu»t 
iiatterin«>'  reception,  well  merited  hy  his  aViility  and  conray'e. 
The  success  he  had  already  ol)tained  enconraf^'cd  the  hope 
that  a  second  ex[)edition  would  he  ahle  to  conii)lele  tiie 
uiitlei'talviuf*".    and    conse((Ui'ntly.  hy    an    imperial    onh'r.    the 


S'hooner  Krotow  and  a  ti'ans|iort  ;\.'i'(' 

died  f 


li{1''d  out,  with  w  hirh 


itu 


sson'  oi 


nee  more  sailed  from  ihii'  port  of  Archani^el  on 
Aiii^Mist  -').  His  instructions  av(M-<'  to  Avinter  in  INIalhew's 
Straits,  and  theiiee  to  attempi  in  tin.'  followin;4-  summer  lht» 
cxploi'ation  oT  (he  eastern  C(»ast  of  the  UMi-tliern  island.  Tlie 
winter  hul  he  built  at  the  western  enliaiice  of  the  straits 
wa-:  rt'ady  for  his  reception  by  (October  2(1.  It  was  of  stately 
liiniensions  for  a  No\'aya  Zenilya  resldouce,  2')  feet  Ion;/, 
'1\  broad.  S  feet  hi^'h  in  the  c -ntre.  '>  at  the  sides:  a)id 
coiisi.sti'd  of  I  wo  eonijtartments.  one  (or  the  oi1i<'crs  and  the 


otl 


ler 


tor 


the 


crew, 


Thev  found   the  cold   vei\    eiulurable 


hut  were  ratlier  inconnnode<l   b\'   the  snicdsc.  uhiidi  <lid  not 


d 


iiwavs  tmd  a  ready  i»assa<>'e  tiiroui'' 


th 


rh  th 


o])i'nin;,'  in  1  he  roi.l', 


SuiiH't  iiiies  the   snov;    accumulated   in   sue! 


I    Ilia 


^scs,   or  fh< 


stuiMu  ra^ed  so  i'uri»uisly  round  the  hut,  that    tin'v  could   iiol: 
li'a\i'  it  for  eiyht  days  runninti',  s'.nd   (V«'((Uenlly  the  hole   lit 


tlie  niof  had  to  serve  tlKun  for  a  <i 


(  II  1)' 


KL'Vi-)i  white    br>ars  wcr(>   l;i!lis!   ah^'Ut    th>'    !iiii    <I 


mm 


\i 


TlIK    l'(>[.AI!    WOKi-D. 


wiiilcv ;  one  (»ii  tin  roof,  jiiiothcr  in  ilic  pii^sti^'c.  l*iicli- 
t  iis.sow,  svcll  awiiic  ill, it  (>c(nijtiiti()ii  is  tli('l»cSL  ft'iiiclv  ;iL;':iiiisi 
in('liiiiclii»ly,  kf|tt  liis  rrcw  in  coustanl  ;icli\itv.  'V\\rY  wen' 
(tblii'cd  1()  Irtrli  Avodd  from  (lislnuct's  of  ten  or  ('li'\rn  vci'sls. 
nol  seldom  diii'in',;'  ii  cold  of  — -Xi",  wliicli,  (li;ii:1-:s  1o  their 
tlnrlv  f^r-dresse^,  tlx'V  I)or(»  I'ennirkabiy  well,  |>iiri  ienlarly  as 
a  fen)[iirat  lU'e  lower  than  — :2-")'  never  oeeurri^d.  nnless  diirin^ 
pcrreellv  calm  Aveatlier.  Hi'  also  niadi-  tlieni  lay  ftx  lra[»s  ai 
coiisidi'raltle  dislauces  from  ilii-  lint,  ami  aninsed  tln'iii  witli 
sliootiii;^'  at  a  mark  and  L;'ymnasiic  exercis('S, 

By  tliis  means  lie  succeeded  in  ]ireservinL;'  their  la'altli. 
an<I  wai'ilini^'  off  tlie  attacks  of  the  scurvy. 

As  early  as  A[»ril,  the  indclaiiL;'al>le  Pachtu^.sow  tittfd  oii; 
t  wo  siedo'e-parties,  lor  the  exploraticm  of  the  eastern  coast. 
'riie  one,  ('(Misistiu:^"  of  seven  men,  he  rommamli'd  in  |iei's(p|i: 
the  either  was  led  by  the  steersman  Ziwolka.  IJoth  parties 
travelled  in  company  as  far  as  the  ea>tei-ii  enti-anre  {>{'  the 
straits,  wliere  one  of  the  liuts  in  wliicli  Rosmysslmv  had  wiii- 
tere<l  seveidy  years  since  Avas  still  fiuiid  in  a  u'('od  ci  inditioii. 

I'achtussow  now  returned  for  the  puT'pose  df  accural.  U 
surxeyiuLi"  the  straits,  wliilt'  Ziw(»lka  2>i'< '<"<'' '*^'''l  alono-  the 
east  coast,  with  a  small  lent  and  provisions  for  a  month. 
All  Ids  men  liad  Sanutjede  dresses,  hut  they  wei'e  alreadv  so 
hardened  that  they  did  not  wi'ar  the  upper  coat  Avith  tlie 
hood  even  diu'inu'  the  ni;^'lit,  {ilthoun'h  snow  storms  not  ■-ii'ldoni 
occurred.  Once  their  IxMvts  were  frozen  so  h;ir(l  that  thev 
could  not  ]>ull  them  otf  hefore  thoy  had  heen  provionslv 
thawed,  an<l  as  drift-wood  was  nowhere  to  he  found,  tliey 
Avere  obliLi'iMl  to  hurn  the  [)oU's  of  their  tent,  and  to  keep 
their  feet  over  the  firi',  until  the  leather  became  soft.  On 
.May  IS.  the  thirty-foniih  (Iay  of  Ins  journey.  Ziwolka  re 
turncMl  to  his  commaiahr  ai'tei-  haviii;_:'  e.\|iloi'ed  the  (  ast 
coast  northwariks  to  a  distance  of  i-")!!  Ncrsts. 

]\[eauw]iile  PachtussoAV  liad  been  busy  building-  a  heal 
ei^vhteen  feet  louii',  with  whi  'h  he  intended  to  proceed  aJeiiu' 
the  western  coast,  to  the  uortliorn  e.\t  remity  of  the  ishiiid. 
and.  the  elements  pei'mit i Iul;'.  to  return  to  tln'  straits  aloii^- 
its  eastiM'u  shores.  About  tlu'  bev'inniiiL;'  of  June,  the  iiii- 
;L;'rator\  birds  m.ide  their  a  ["pcarance,  and  iiitroduce(l  a.  M'vy 
a'^'reealile  elian'_;e  in    tho    iiioiii  ifi  iih  ms  fiiv     of  (he  ea  viLl'atois. 


a  au 


I 


i. 


I 


1 

t; 
1 


tha 


I 


AviXTi'.uixn   IX  xovAVA  /,i:>n,v.\. 


1-1.5 


wild,  a  iVw  woolvS  later,  I'lijoyod  tlic  siu'lit  of  ItlnoiiiiiM.!'  ilowri's, 
ii:i(l  u'iitlicrt'd  aiitiscorlnilic  licrhs  in  Iai'L;'(.'  (juaiit ilics. 

Tims  till'  lii^'li  uortlicrii  hind  had  a.ssuiii(.'(i  its  most  IVicndly 
asjM'ct,  and  looked  as  cdiccrfnlly  as  it  [tossihly  could,  when 
July  11.  Pachtiissow  and  Ziwolka  set  out  for  the  north, 
til  the  hoat  and  the  transport;  the  schooner  hein^'  left 
l)i'hind  ill  the  straits  with  the  sure-con  and  a  tew  invalids. 
At  lirst  the  wind  and  weather  favoured  their  couise,  but  on 
.inly  l:1,  the  boat  Avas  smashed  between  two  pieces  of  ice,  so 
that  they  I   id  hardly  time  to  escape  upon  the  laud  with  tl 


iiU 


\\\ 


iC 


nautical  instruments,  a  sack  of  Hour  and  s(une  butter. 

Ill  this  unpleasant  sitiialioit,  they  were  obli^-ed  to  remain 
for  thirteen  days,  until  at  last  a  walrus  hunter  appeared, 
wlin  took'  the  shipwrecked  explorers  on  board,  and  broiii^'ht 
I'.iciii  safely  back  to  their  winter-cpiarters  (u>  Au;4ust  22. 

The-'  Uiis  lirst  att(unpt  ended  in  e(unplete  disjippoiutmeut, 
till  '  t' '  o(^ason  wa^  alr<'ady  too  far  advanced  to  }>ermit  of  its 
ivjicwal.      Vet  Paclitussow,  resolving-  with  praiseworthy  /.eal 


Id  n 


lake  the  most  of  the  last  davs  of  the  short  summer. 


se 


out   a^'aiu   on  Au,L;'Ust    2(5,   tor  the  eastei-n   eutranee   of  tl 


10 


straits,  and  ]iroce('iled  aloii^"  the  coast,  until  he  was  stojijied 
liv  the  ice,  at   some  distance  lievoiid  the   small   islands  wliicli 


lioat 

hud, 

"  1 1  l;' 


III- 


;er\ 


i)i'ar  Ills  name 


Couviiiced  of  the  fruitlessness  of  all  furth<'r  etl'orts,  Paeli- 
tussow  bade  adieu  Avith  a  sorrowful  heart  tf)  the  coast,  which 
still  stret(died  out  before  him  in  undiscov<'red  mystery,  and 
sailed  back  a|>'aLn  to  Ai-chani^'el  on  Se[)tember  2n.  Soon  after 
liis  i-eturn,  he  fell  ill,  and  four 
iVieiids  carried  him  to  his  ^•l■ave. 


weeliS 


lat( 


er  his    uiuuruiim 


The   Arctic  Ocean   is  so   capricious  that    in   the   foUowiiej,- 


\  car   1  he  \\a 


iMis-hunter    Issakow,  oi*  l\ciii. 


w  1 1  o 


ail    no  I 


lis- 


ciivcnes   ill    view,  was  a 


ble    1 


o   roiiiiij    without    dilljciiltv   tilt 


eartiil   ot 


uni'th-casteni   extremity  of  Novaya    Zeinlya,    l)iit     t 
ciicduiiterin^' the  dan^'ers  of  that   dreadful   <'oast.  he  ;iimost. 
iiiiiiicdiately  returned. 

During-  the  two  winters  he  sjieiit  in  Xovaya  Zenilya.  the 
siccvsiiian  Ziwolka  had  daily  coii,-.ulli'd  the  tliennometer,  and 
tlic  result  of  his  observations   !4M\e  to  the  western  entrance 


Mi 


new  s 


St 


rait 


s  a  mean  aiiiiiia  i  teiiiperat  tire  o 


f  +  1 


Tim-    N'o\a\a    Zeuilva    is    colder   than     th 


west    coast    of 


140 


Till-:    I'Ul-AJl    AVOUIJ). 


Spit/,borp:ori,  wlii«'li,  nUlioiiL;])  still  fnvtlior  to  tlio  nortli,  is  more 
favoumbly  sitiiiiird  wi'li  rcu'iir-l  to  Hh'  wimls  :ni(l  fiirveuts. 
iind  from  five  t(»  icii  (Icn'rcfs  -waiMiicr  tliiiu  llic  liiu'li  noi'tht.'Vii 
piirts  of  Siberia  and  coutiiicntal  Aiiicvica,  which  sustain  a 
('oin])arativ('ly  iiuiiieroiis  population,  Avhilc  Novaya  Zonilya  is 
uninhabited.  IlencL'  this  want  and  the  circumstance  thai 
the  ve<4'etation  of  tliese  islands  scarcely  rises  a  span  above 
tlie  ^Tound,  while  the  forest  re|.>'ion  still  jienetrates  far  within 
the  confines  of  the  colder  continental  rei^-ions  above  men- 
tioned, are  to  be  ascribed  not  to  the  low  mean  annua! 
temperatni'e  of  Novaya  Zendya,  bnt  to  the  nnfavonrable 
distribntiitn  (A'  warmth  over  the  varions  seasons  of  the  a  ear. 
For  althonyh  hi^-h  northern  Sib  ia  and  America-  have  a  _/'"/• 
colli'}'  Avintei',  they  t-'ujoy  a  nnisiilfinhli/  ininuer  sunnner,  an<l 
this  it  is  which  in  the  hiL>'her  latitndes  determines  the  exist- 
ence or  the  development  of  life  on  the  dry  land.  During- 
the  winter,  the  organic  Avorld  is  ])artlv  sheltered  nnder  the 
snow,  or  else  it  miy-rates,  or  it  prodnces  within  itself  suf- 
ficient warmth  to  defy  the  cobl — and  thus  a  few  de^'recs 
more  ov  less  at  that  time  of  the  year  are  of  no  luatei'ial 
conseqnence,  while  the  warmth  of  summer  is  absolutely  in- 
dispensable to  awaken  life  and  determine  its  development. 

The  comparatively  milil  ir infer  of  Novaya,  Zendya  (no  less 
than  thirtv-three  df^^Tees  warmer  than  that  of  Jakutsk)  is 
therefore  of  but  littli' IxMK'fit  to  v<'n-('i;il)|,.  lite,  which  (»n  llie 
other  hand  sutfers  considersibly  from  a  summer  iid'erior  even 
to  that  of  Melville  Island  and  Boothia,  Felix.  A  coast  where 
the  snn,  in  spite  of  a  day  of  several  months''  continuauti', 
^•enerates  so  snudl  a  ([uantily  oi'  heat,  ami  where  yet  soiiu' 
ve«>'eta,tion  is  able  to  lloarish,  must  necessarilv  be  well  worthy 
the  attention  of  botanists,  or  rather  of  all  those  who  take 
an  interest  in  the  <i-eoo'ra])hir;d  distribution  of  plants.  I'or 
if  in  the  primitive  forests  of  Brazil  the  naturalist  admin's 
the  etlects  of  a,  tro[>ical  sun  and  an  excessive  humidity  ia 
j)roducinn"  tla;  utmost  exuberance  of  vi'iVet ati(»n,  it  is  no  less 
interesting,'  for  hiiu  to  obser\e  how  l-'h>iii  under  the  iiiest 
adverse  circumstances  still  waj^-es  a  succcHsful  war  ay,'ainst 
death  and  dest  met  ion. 

Thus  a,  few  years  attei"  I*ai  litussow's  expedition,  the  desiiv 
to  explore  a  land  so  /eiuarKaMe  in  a  l><ilaiii<'al  [loint  of  view. 


f 


MK 


II 

taJ 


el 


>^e||i,r. 


n.<>i;\    '»!'    XOV.WA    ZKMI.VA. 


147 


y   tli- 
ni. 

k)    is 

1    llir 

(.'Vrii 

-mill' 

llU'lllV 

tuki' 

VnV 

iiii't's 

tv  ill 
.'l.'ss 

tlK'St 

iiitisl 

lli'-iri 
\  ii'W. 


;iii(l  lit  t;'atli('i' now  tVuits  for  science  in  the  wilderness,  indiK-ed 
lleri- von  Baer,  tliou;4'li  ulr(Mdy  iidsanced  in  years,  to  nndei- 
take  the  jonrney  to  Nova\'a  Zeinlva. 

Accon)[)aniod  l)y  two  yonnL^Tiuituvalists,  Mr.  Lehniann  and 
Mr.  Jii'»ih'r,  the  cel'jljvated  Petersbiirii"  acaih-niiciaii  ai-rived 
(.11  .July  2i»,  Js;;7,  at  the  w(.'stern  entrance  of  Matlu'w's  Straits, 
saii<il  throu^-h  tlieni  the  next  (hiy  in  a  boat  and  reached 
t]ie  sea  of  Kara,  where  lie  admired  a  ]irodi;^ions  inniilier  oi' 
ji'jly-fishe.s  [Plcunihrdcliiii  jiUnis)  swimming'  alioiit  in  the 
ice-c(»]<l  waters,  and  disphiyin;L^'  a  niarvellons  Ijeae.iy  of  cmIoiii-- 
iiii-'  in  tlieir  (dliated  ribs.  This  excursion  niii>'ht,  ho\ve\er,  iia\e 
had  very  disan'reeablo  consequences,  for  a  dreadful  stnrni, 
lilowiiiL;-  from  the  Avest,  prevented  their  boat  from  i-etvu'nin^", 

.d  forced  them  to  ])ass  the  uiLi'lit  with  some  walrus- hunters, 
whom  tliey  had  the  <4dod  fortune  in  meet  with. 

( )ii  the  followin<^'  day,  the  storm  abated,  so  that  the  return 
could  lie  attem}»ted  ;  they  were,  however,  oblic;'ed  to  land  on 
a  small  island  in  the  Belun'a  liay,  where,  wet  to  the  skin, 
and  their  lind>s  shaking.'"  with  cold,  they  fortunately  Ibiind 
a  refuii'e  in  the  ruins  of  a  Iuil  in  wlTudi  Rosmysslow  had 
wintered  in  I  7(>7. 

i\[eaiiwhile  the  wind  had  \eeret?  lu  the  east,  accompanied 
hy  a  very  disajiTOoable  cold  rain,  whi(di  ou  the  niouidains 
look'  the  foria  of  snow  ;  they  were  now,  how;'ver,  aide  to  make 
use  of  their  sail,  and  arrived  late  at  :ii<^'ht  at  the  S]h)1  where 
tlieir  ship  lay  at  amdior,  completely  wet,  but  in  ^Mod  health 
;ind  s[)irits. 

"  Wo  could  esteem  ourselvt^s  hap[)y,''  says  Von  Tlaei',-''  'in 
ImviiiLi' paid  ^f^  slio'ht  .;  penalty  f(»r  nenleetin^'  tin.' })recautloii, 
>e  necessary  to  all  travellers  in  Novaya  Zemlya,  <»f  providinu' 
i''>y  a  week  when  you  set  out  for  a  day's  excursion.' 

<  )ii  Auj^-ust  t,  after  a  th<)rou;4'h  botanical  examination  of 
llie  s'raits,  the  p;irty  proci'oded  ah'iiL;'  the  west  coast.  The 
wind,  'llowin^•  from  the  north,  brou'^ht  them  to  the  Ivostin 
^cliiir,  a   nia/.e    of  |teissa<res  between   aunieroiis  isl 


els,  wliere 


'lie  walnis-huntei-s  in  Xovaya  Zendya  chiefly  assendde. 

( )n    .\ul;'U-:    :»,  an    excursidii  ^•  as    made   iij)  the    I'iver  Xe(di- 


In  1 


1    In-  1ll>l  nirl  l\r  .1 


ll.l 


iiti  I'tiUiiiuji  ii.'-iMiiii  I.!   Ill-   I'liii'iuy  111 


111.;  n>-//. 


i-,i,i; 


'//•  SI.  P, /,,:•'/>■ 


..%Uhl" 


148 


TIIK    r01>AU    WOIU.D, 


Avatowii,  Avlu'vo  thoy  restLHl  in  ii  Init  wliidi  liad  been 
crecttHl  by  some  fishornian  oiiii»l<)yo(l  in  ('iitchin;^'  '  •^•olzi/ oi* 
Arctic  saliiKiii.  On  ivturnino-  to  the  sbip,  a  dreaJful  storm 
iir()S(»  iVoni  the  norlh-east,  Avhich  lasted  nine  days,  and,  very 
iortunately  for  the  botanists,  caiiyht  them  in  the  Kostin 
Schar,  and  not  on  the  hiL>-h  sea. 

Ahhonj^'h  they  were  anchored  in  a  sheltered  bay,  the  Avaves 
frequently  swept  over  the  deck  of  their  vessel,  and  compelled 
them  to  remain  all  the  time  in  their  small  low  cabin.  Only 
once  they  made  an  attempt  to  land,  but  the  wind  was  so 
strono-  that  they  conld  hardly  stand.  Their  situation  Avas 
rendered  still  more  terrible  and  anxious,  as  part  of  ihe  crew 
which  had  been  sent  out  hunting-  before  the  storm  be^an, 
had  not  yet  returned. 

\\nien  at  last  the  storm  ceased,  Avinter  secnved  about  to 
be^'in  in  ^-ood  earnest.  Every  ni<^'ht  ice  formed  in  th(>  river, 
and  the  land  Avas  coA^ered  Avith  snow,  Avhicli  had  surprised  the 
scanty  A'Cf^'etation  in  its  fnll  bloom.  At  len<ith  the  hunters 
returned,  after  h  ivinp,"  endured  terrible  hardships,  and  iiuav 
preparations  Avere  made  for  a  definitive  departure. 

A  f>-eneral  bath  Avas  taken,  Avithout  AA'hich  no  anchora^'e  in 
Novaya  Zendya  is  CA'er  lefl,  and  according-  to  ancient  custom 
a  votive  cross  Avas  likeAvise  erected  on  the  strand,  as  a  meme- 
riai  of  the  expedition. 

On  AuLi'ii  JS,  the  anehors  Avere  Avei^-iied,  but  they  were 
soon  dr(>[»ped  again  in  the  8char,  to  examine  on  a  small 
island  the  vejj^etable  and  animal  prodncts  of  the  land 
and  of  the  shore.  The  former  ottrreil  but  few  objeets  of 
interest,  but  they  were  astonished  ;it  the  exuberance  of 
niai-iue  life.  After  havini"-  been  dot:iine<l  bv  a  thick  f  >u'  in 
this  place  for  several  days,  they  at  len^'th  sailed  t(e,v;irds 
the  White  Sea,  Avhere  they  were  oblio-ed  Ity  contrary  Avinds 
to  run  into  Tri  OstroAva.  Dreary  ami  desolate  as  tlu' 
tundras  at  this  extreme  point  of  La])land  had  apiMared  In 
them  on  their  journey  ontAvards,  they  wei-e  now  charmed  with 
their  i^Tei-n  slopes,  a  sii^'ht  of  which  they  had  bcmi  deprived 
in  Novaya  Zendya. 

(Ml  SeptiMiibrr  11.  they  ;it  len^'th  reaidied  the  [lort  et" 
ArcliauLic!,  wilh  the  aureciiMe  |.ros|)ect  of  passim';  the 
Avinlei'   in   a  conifi>rl;iMe   vrndv  at    St.    I'ttt'vslnirn'   instcnil  "t 


I 


jn:sri;rs  or  vdn  uakks  .kjuunky. 


uu 


sjit'iuliny"  it,  likf  liiirciit/,  iind  liis  associiitt's,  as  iiii^'ht  oasily 
have  lia[tp<'nt'<l,  ill  a  wivtchud  hut,  beyond  the  7<>th  dt'^'ivo  ctf 
iKirtlicru  latitude. 

Having'  thus  l)ri<'ll_v  slcotclu'd  Yon  Bacr's  adventures,  I  will 
now  notice  some  ol'  the  most  interestiiiL;'  seieiitilie  results  ni' 
his  journey. 

The  roelcv  west-coast  of  Novavti.  Zendva  has  alxmt  the 
same  ap[tearanee  iis  the  analoii'ous  jntrt  (»!'  S[)it/.l)er;_;fii,  tor 
lu're  also  the  mouidains,  particularly  in  the  northern  island, 
rise  ahi'uptly  to  a  heii^'ht  of  three  or  four  thoursand  feot  fioni 
tlie  sea,  while  the  eastern  ct»ast  is  ^'encrally  ilat.  \\\  hoth 
lutries,    annular   hlocks    of  stone,    precipitati'd   from   the 

nimits,  cover  the  sides  of  the  hills,  and  frer(uently  mahe  it 

i]iossi])le  to  ascend  them.  In  lact,  no  rock,  howevor  laird 
liiii'lv   u'rainod,    is    ahle    to    withstnn<l   the    etl'ects   of    a 


Cdl 


su 


III 


or 


climate  where  the  summer  is  so  wet  and  tlie  winter  so  severe. 
Xowliere  in  Xovaya  Zenilya  is  a  s^'rass-covered  s]iot  to  l)e 
tuuiid  deserviin^  the  name  of  a  meadow.  Even  the  iolia- 
ci'Miis  lichens,  which  ^-row  so  luxuriantly  in  La]»land,  have 
here  a  stunted  ajipearance,  but,  as  Yon  Baer  remarks,  this  is 
owin^'  less  to  the  climate  than  to  the  nature  of  the  soil,  as 
plants  of  this  description  thrive  best  on  <dialky  o-round.  The 
crustace(.)us  lichens,  however,  cover  the  Idocks  of  ann'ito 
and  }tor]ihyry  with  a  motley  vesture,  and  tlu.'  ding-y  carpet 
with  wluch  Ih-ijnx  (triiqtdala  invests  here  and  thei'e  the  dry 
shipes,  formed  ol  rocky  detritus,  reminds  one  of  the  tundras 
of  Lai)land. 

I'he  scanty  vej^'otable  coverinn'  Avhiidi  this  only  truly  social 
plant  of  Xovaya  Zemly a  affords  is,  however,  but  an  iiudi  thick, 
and  can  easily  be  deta(.*lied  like  a  cap  from  th('  rock'  beneath. 

On  a  clayey  L!;round  in  moist  and  low  situations,  the 
mosses  atVord  a  ]»rot(K-tion  to  the  polar  willow  (Sully  i>nl<irl><), 
which  raises  l,>ut  two  leaves  and  a  catkin  over  the  surface  of 
its  coverinji". 

Kveii  th(»  most  si)arino;  sheet  of  humus  has  t^'reat  ditliculty 


to  form    in   Xovava   Zemlva,  as  in   a    m'eat 


nnmber 


.f  th 


plants  which   L;'row  there  the  discoloured  leai    dries  on   the 
stalk,  and  is  then  swept  away  by  the  winds,  so  that  the   land 


Won 


Id 


i'Pl 


tear  s 


till 


more   na 


k.Ml 


many  plants,  such   a^  the 


suow  raiiuiuudus  (H-m um  iiln.^  ulniUs),  wx'i'e  lujt  so  extremely 


l.-,() 


Till;  I'di.Ai;   \V(»i{Li>. 


iil»s1i'iiii(»iis  lis  lo  n'(jiiii-('  iKi  liiiiiius  111  nil,  l»iit  iiHTcIv  ii  rocky 
ere  vice  *>)•  si  uip'  loose  ^'ruvcj  ciijiiiltlc  of  rctiiinliiL;"  moist  i  ire  in 
its  niicTsI  ices. 

T)ut  i'\ru  ill  Noviiya  Zciiilvii  tlicrc  iirc  soiui'  more  fiiv'oiirod 
S]iol:s.  'riius  when  V'oii  liiiei'  liiuded  at  tlio  foot  of  a  IiIliIi 
sliitc  inoiiiiliiiii  iVoiitiii^'  the  south-west,  niid  roljeetiiiy'  the 
nivs  of  till'  sun.  he  wiis  astonished  and  dehyhted  to  see  a 
^ay  mixture  of  purple  sileiios,  ^'olden  ranuneuhises,  peaeh- 
colnured  [»ari yas,  wliite  cerastias,  and  hlue  paleniones,  and  was 
|>artieularly  [tlensed  at  Hndiu^'  the  well-known  ior^-et-me- 
iiot  amont^'  the  ornaments  of  this  Aretie  pasture.  IJetweeii 
tliese  various  llowcrs  the  soil  was  everywhere  visihle,  for  the 
dicotyledonous  plants  of  tlie  hi^-h  latitudes  j»'(Mluce  no  Jiiorc 
I'olia^'e  than  is  noeossary  to  set  otf  the  colours  of  t  lie  hlossoms. 
and  have  generally  more  flowers  than  leaves. 

The  entire  vei^-etation  of  the  island  is  c()nfined  to  the 
su])erlicial  layer  of  tlu^  soil  and  to  the  lower  stratum  of  the 
air.  liven  those  plants  which  in  warm  climates  have  a  de- 
sceiidint^'  <)r  vertical  root  have  hero  a  h<»ri/ontal  one,  and 
none,  wlielher  <4rasses  or  shrubs,  <^'row  hi^'lu'r  than  a  span 
al'ove  the  L^'roiimh 

In  the  polar  willow,  a  sinj^'le  pair  of  leaves  sits  on  a  stem 
al)out  as  Ihiclc  as  a  straw,  althou^'h  the  whole  ])lant  forms 
an  extensive  shrub  with  numerous  ramiHcations.  Another 
species  of  willow  {Sdh'.i'  hinaiti)  attains  the  ctmsiderable 
iK'io-ht  of  a  span,  and  is  a  perfect  i^-iant  anioni;-  the  Novayn 
Zemlyau  plants,  for  tlie  thick  subterranean  trunk  sometimes 
measures  two  inches  in  diameter,  and  can  be  laid  Ijare  for  a 
len;4'th  of  ten  or  twelve  feet  witlnmt  lindin<^-  the  end.  Thus 
in  this  country  the  forests  are  moiv  in  than  idiorc  the  earth. 

This  horizontal  development  of  ve^-etation  is  caused  In 
the  sun  principally  heating-  the  superticial  sheet  of  earth. 
which  imparts  its  warmth  to  the  stratum  of  air  immediately 
above  it,  ;'ud  thus  confines  the  plaiits  Avithin  the  narnw 
limits  wluch  best  suit  their  gTOwth.  Hence  also  the  iii- 
iluenc(^  of  position  on  veg'etation  is  so  g'reat  that,  while  ;i 
plain  open  to  I  he  winds  is  a  complete  desert,  a  i^'enlle  moun- 
tain slo[»e  not  seldom  resembles  a  fj'arden. 

The  absence  of  ail  trees  or  shrubs,  or  even  of  all  \  iu-orous 
lu'rban'e,  impai'ts  a  cliaract<'r  of  the  dee}iest  s«»litude  to  ihc 


I 


KAKITV    or    INSISTS. 


151 


I 

i 


Noviiyii  /t'liilviin  hnulsc'iiiic,  iiiul  inspires  cvoii  the  r()u<;li 
siiilor  A\  itli  a  Iciiid  of  religious  iiwe.  '  It  is,'  says  Von  Baer, 
'as  it'  tlie  (lawn  oC  creaiioii  Lad  l»iit  just  l»ei;iin,  and  liCo 
were  still  to  be  called  into  existence.'  The  universal  silenco 
is  hut  rarely  hrokeii  hy  the  noise  ofan  animal.  Ihit  neither 
the  cry  ofthe  sea-mew,  -wheelin'.;'  in  the  air,  nor  the  rust  iin<^'  of 
the  leiiiiuiTiL;"  in  tlio  stnnted  lierha^^c  are  a))h'  to  animate  tlio 
scene.  Xo  voice  is  heard  in  calm  weather.  The  rare  land- 
l)irds  are  silent  as  well  as  the  insects,  which  are  comparatively 
still  fewer  in  number.  T'his  tran(iuillity  of  nature,  particu- 
hrly  durin;^"  serene  days,  i-emiuds  the  s]iectator  of  the  (piiet 
of  the  <j;Tave  ;  and  the  lei ii minims  seem  like  i>hantonis  as  they 
piide  noiselessly  from  burr»»\v  to  burrow.  In  <»ur  iields  even 
a  sli;4'ht  motion  of  the  air  becomes  visible  in  the  foliane  of 
the  trees,  or  in  the  wavin^'  of  the  corn;  here  the  low  plants 
are  so  stitf  and  immovable  that  one  nii;^ht  suppose  them  to 
l>e  painted.  The  rar(»  sand-bee  {AiKlrena),  which  on  sunny 
(lays  and  in  warm  places  flies  about  with  lan^aiid  wind's,  has 
scarcely  the  spirit  to  hum,  and  the  Hies  and  f^-nats,  thon<4'h 
more  frequent,  are  eipially  feeble  and  inoftensive. 

As  a  proof  of  the  rarity  of  insects  in  Novaya  Zendya, 
Von  Baer  mentions  that  not  ii  single  larva,  was  to  be  found 
ill  a  dead  walrus  which  had  been  laying-  at  least  fourteen 
ilays  on  the  shore.  The  hackneyed  phrase  of  our  funeral 
seruKtns  cannot  therefore  be  apjilied  to  these  high  latitudes, 
where  even  above  the  earth  the  decay  of  Ijodies  is  extremely 
slow. 

Tfowever  poor  the  vegetation  of  Novaya  Zeinlya.  may  be, 
it  still  suffices  to  nourish  a  munber  of  lemmings,  which  live 
I'll  leaves,  stems,  and  buds,  but  not  on  roots.  The  slo})es  of 
ilie  mountains  are  often  irndermined  in  all  directions  by 
tlicir  liurrows.  Xext  to  these  lemmings,  the  Arctic  foxes  are 
tlie  most  mnnerous  quadrupeds,  as  they  tind  |>lenty  of  food 
i'l  til''  above-mentioned  little  rodents,  as  well  as  in  the  young 
liirds,  and  in  the  bodies  of  the  marine  animals  which  are 
cast  ashore  by  the  tides.  AVhite  bears  are  scarcely  ever  seen 
during  the  summer,  and  the  reindeer  seems  to  have  de- 
creased in  ninnbers,  at  least  on  the  west  coast,  Avluu'e  they 
live  fre(|uently  shot  by  the  E,ussian  m<n'se-hunt(M-s. 

Til"  h(»sts  of  sea-birds  in  some  parts  of  the  coast  ])rove 


l;V-> 


Tin:  i'(ti,.\u  \voi{!,i). 


Til 


tli;it  ilic  w iitiTS  iii'c  far  imn't'  |ir(>lilic  tliaii  flic  laml.  i  lie 
t'uwlisli  Li'iiillciiiot s  (I'riii  Iritilt),  closdv  fon^rci^Mlrd  in  rows, 
OIK.'  iilxtvc  the  other,  on  tlic  Uiiri'ow  Icdi^'cs  of  vertical  roclc- 
wjills,  make  the  lilack  stoiir  a]>|>('ar  stri[ic(l  willi  white.  Such 
a  l»reediii<>'  phice  is  called  hv  tho  liiissiaiis  u  ba/aar.  (hi  lluj 
siiiiniiit  ot*  isolated  clin's,  and  suft'eriiio;  no  otiier  bird  in  liis 
vicinitA',  nestles  the  larj^'e  t^i'ey  sea-mew  [Litnui  (jhiiiciis],  to 
whom  tho  Dutcli  \Yhah>eat(diers  have  <;iven  the  name  ol' 
hnr!''hevmaster.  While  the  iee-l)eiir  is  monareli  of  the  land 
animals,  this  i^'ull  a{)p(Mi's  as  tlu^  s(»vevei^'n  lord  of  all  the 
sealjirds  iironnd,  and  n(»  guillemot  would  venture  to  disjuite 
tho  possession  of  a  dainty  morsel  claimed  by  the  imperious 
buruhermistev. 

This  abundance  of  the  sea  has  also  attracted  man  1o  the 
desi.'rt  shores  of  NovtiA'a  Zemlyii.  Lcui'^  before  IJareni/, 
mad(^  Avestern  Europe  acquainted  with  the  existence  of 
Novaya  Zendya  (1-V,»  1—9(1),  tho  land  was  known  1o  the 
Russians  as  a  valuable  huntinu'  or  fishing-  ground;  for  the 
Dutch  discttverer  met  with  a  lavi>'e  number  of  their  vessels 
on  its  coast.  Burrou<4'h,  who  visited  the  jtort  of  Kohi 
in  J •").')(!,  in  search  of  the  unfortunate  Willonyliby,  and 
thence  sailed  as  far  as  tho  mouth  of  the  Petschora,  likewise 
saw  in  tlio  <^'ulf  of  Kola  no  less  than  thirty  lodjes,  all  des- 
tined for  Avalrus-huntine-  in  Novaya  Zemlya. 

Whether,  before  the  Russians,  tlie  adventurous  Norsemen 
ever  visited  these  desolate  islands  is  unknown,  but  so  nmcli 
is  certain,  that  ever  since  the  times  of  Barentz  tlie  exi)edi- 
tions  of  the  Muscovites  to  its  western  coast  have  been  imin- 
terruptedly  continued.  As  is  the  case  with  all  lishing-  specula- 
tions, their  success  very  much  depends  upon  chance.  The 
year  18:)4  was  vary  lucrative,  so  that  in  the  followinij-  sea^tlll 
about  eighty  ships,  with  at  least  1,000  men  on  board,  sailed 
for  Novaya  Zemlya  from  the  ports  of  the  White  Sea,  l)ut 
this  time  the  results  Avere  so  unsatisfactory  that  in  1S.!() 
scarce  half  the  number  were  fitted  out.  in  1S:}7  no  more 
than  twenty  vessels  were  employed,  and  Von  Baer  rtdates 
that  but  one  of  them  which  penetrated  into  the  sea  of  Xai'a 
made  a  considerable  profit,  while  all  the  rest,  Avith  but  fiw 
exceptions,  did  not  pay  <me-half  of  their  expenses. 

The  most  vahuible  animals  are  the  Avalrus  and  the  AvliitJ 


■..>.Hili 


risiii.\(,  ciiorvDs  (»r  novava  /,i:mi-va. 


\o'.\ 


^\ 


hit-' 


l.cl 


AliKili;^'    llic   scmIs,    tlic     I'll 


li 


i|i>l|ililll.  or  l)cni;^'il.  iMlKill;^'  I  lie  scMis,  llic  I  lnwd  (iihujiiui 
(if  Piilliis  tlistiiiLiMiislics  itscll"  liy  its  si/c,  lln'  lliickncss  of  its 
skill,  1111(1  its  ([iKilititv  (if  f;lt  ;  I'lmrn  (jra  iihi  nilicil  illid  I'licra 
liisjiiilii  Viiuiv  iii'xt  ill  c^tiiiiii t ion.  'J'lic  ( Jrcciilaiul  wliiiii! 
iii'Ncr  cxti'iids  his  excusioiis  to  tlic  wiitcrs  of  XoViiVii  Zcliih;!, 

ft  ft 

I. lit  the  liii-ljiick  and  the  Li'i'ii iiipus  ai'o  fr('(|ii('ntl_v  si'i'ii. 

Tlu'  Alpine  siilnion  [Siilnin  idjiiiii'f),  whiidi  iowiirds 
iiiitnuiu  iisfi'nds  into  llio  niduntain-lakt's,  is  oaiii^lit  in  in- 
ert'di  I  ilc  nnndxTs  ;  and,  (iiially,  th('  lj('an-<^'oos('  {A  user  sitjil  mn) 
Itrceds  s(i  fr('([uently,  at  least  upon  tiie  sontln-rn  island,  that 
the  i^atheriny-  of  its  quill  leathers  is  au  object  of  some  ini- 
iH.irtanee, 


/  ,«-^ 


icnu'ii 

inirli 

jifdi- 

iniiii- 

■(•lll;i- 
The 
;e;i;.(ili 
sailed 
I,   hut 

lS:!i; 

more 
■elates 

Kani 

t    few 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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Sciences 

Corporation 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY    145BO 

(716)  872-4503 


"i: 


CHAPTER  XI I. 


TOE    liAPl'S. 


Ilfir  ;ill''|r|i 


t  11  i>|iirv  ;ii'cl  ( 'liiivi 


tM    (' 


M•|^!  I. nil 


tv      S,  !t'-ilriiial  :ili<l  I'mV'  I'l  v  o\ 


\\\i-  lyMjiiaiiil  Ciii'iiy  Tlirir  ?.iiif.nilar  .Mcnlc  ot'  I'ciacliiiig  (Jruss  Sii|MrNlitiiiii 
(if  ilic  i/apiiv  -Tile  llvil  S\<\\'\\  lit' tlu' AViiuil. — Till'  Laiilaiiil  Witi'lics  I'liy.^ii'al 
Cciiisfitntioii  fiftlic  l,aii|i>  'i'hrir  I>rc>-s— Tl.c  I'jiilllai.jnir.s- Tlicir  Dwi'Uinirs- 
Sinvi'  IJiiiiM  s  li'iiiuli  (  r  I'lii,-  .MilkiiiiT  tilt'  Iiriiuloi'i'  —  Mipfnitidiis  'i'lic  I-ap- 
land  J»nir  Skiilfi>.  <ir  Skaic^— The  Sl,.,l^r,., ,,,.  Pujka-  Nafiiral  I'.Miitio  of  Laji- 
laml — AtlacliiMiiil  of  the  La]'i»  tn  tluirCniiiilrv — licar  iliintiiiL' —  \N"nlf  liuiiiiiiL: 
-  .M"(lr  of  LiviiiL' iif  llic  wialliiy  I,api»< — llowllicy  kill  the  Kiiii'licr-A'i^it- 
iufj  llif  I'air  .Maiiiinoii  Wdi-liip-  TriaMiio  Ilidin^r — "'I'al'ak.  nr  liraciulo  " — 
Affi't'liuiiati;  l>i>|")>iii'in  <>f  llic  l.aj.p.s     'I'lic  Skugslapp — Tlu'  l''i>liii'lai'p. 

riTlIK  iiiition  of  tilt'  L;i[)i»s  sj)r(':i(ls  over  tlu'  iKnilitTii  i)arts 
1-  of  Sfiindiiiiivlii  iiiid  Fiiilund,  IWtiii  about  tlio  ij'-hd 
(](.o-ivo  of  latitude  to  tlio  i-oiifiiu'S  of  tlio  Polar  Oceau;  but 
llicir  uumbcr,  lianllv  auiouutiui,'  to  luoro  tlian  twcuty  tliou- 
saud,  bears  no  proj)or(i<»u  to  the  exteut  of  the  vast  re<j^ioiis 
in  whieh  they  are  found.  Althoui^h  now  subjeet  to  the 
crowns  of  iJussiii.  Sweden,  and  Norway,  they  aneientiv 
possessed    the     whole     Seandinavian    peninsula,     until    tlie 


li\ 


viral 
n^rs  — 

1'  l-:ip- 

Vi>il- 
lo  ■■- 


parts 

but 
Lliou- 

li'iitly 
th".' 


j,i^>^(f>i 


,.    r,  .  I  ••  V(«l<(6'' 


l:llN'Fl|lli     IIIRI1. 


s 
a 
II 
I 
li 

n 
(; 

w 

111 
tl 

:ii 
\  ( 

<•! 

yt 
A. 
or 
Imi 
l)( 

l!r 

Li. 
Th 
as 

JllU 

sf»r 
iiiit 
zoa 
(lis  I 
full 
the 
bar 
(It'll 
tor 

toll 
cf  il 

fluii 


(•((.vvKR.-^io.v  or  Tin:   lapis. 


ij.-i 


sniis  of  Odin  drove  fliciii  rin-tlicr  and  Ciirtlu'r  t»>  the  iioiili, 
:ind,  t.iil<in<4-  possession  of  the  coasts  and  vallevs,  left  tlieiii 
iiittliin^^  hut  the  l>h'ak  mountain  and  the  des(date  tnndra. 
In  the  thirteenth  ceuturv,  under  Ihe  rei<;-n  of  ^Ma^uns  Ladis- 
l;is,  Kint,'-  of  Sweden,  their  subju^'ation  was  completed  hy 
111''  llirkarls,  a  race  dwellinjif  on  the  borders  of  the  JJothnian 
(Juif.  These  Birkarls  had  to  pay  the  crown  a  sli<.iht  tribute, 
wliirh  they  wran^'  more  than  a  hundredtuld  from  the  Lapps, 
until  at  leu'^'th  Ciustavus  I.  «jfranted  the  persecuted  savajjfes 
llie  ]>rotecti<»n  of  m<»re  ecjuitable  laws,  and  sent  missionaries 
ainon;^'  tlieni  to  relievo  them  at  the  same  time  from  tlu^ 
vnke  «»f  their  ancient  superstitions.  In  1(J00,  Charles  TX. 
ordered  churches  to  be  built  in  their  country,  and,  some 
vears  after,  his  sou  and  sucj-essor,  the  celebrated  (iustavus 
Adolphus,  founded  a  school  for  the  Lapps  at  Pitea,  aud 
ordered  several  eleuieutary  works  to  be  translated  into  their 
lan;,'uan-e.  In  the  year  1002,  Christian  IV.,  Kinjif  t»f 
Dciuaark  and  Norway,  while  ou  a  visit  to  the  province  of 
Kininark,  was  so  incensed  at  the  gross  idolatry  of  the 
liupjis  that  he  orth-red  their  jiriests  or  sorcerers  to  be  per- 
secuted with  bloofly  severity.  A  worthy  cler^'ymau,  Eric 
|{re<lal.  of  Drontheim.  used  uieaus  uiore  cousonaut  with  the 
spirit  of  the  (Josptd,  and,  havinj^'  instructed  several  youujjf 
LapjKS,  seut  them  backay-ain  as  missionaries  to  their  families. 
These  interpreters  of  a  purer  faith  Avere,  however,  received 
;is  :i[iostates  au<l  traitors  by  their  suspicious  countrymen, 
and  cruelly  uuirdered,  most  likely  at  the  instigation  of  the 
sorcerers.  In  17<>7,  Frederic  TV.  founded  the  Finmark 
mission,  and  in  171<>  Thomas  Westen,  a  man  of  rare 
/eal  and  perseverance,  preached  the  (!osp»d  in  the  wildest 
'lisli'icts  of  the  province.  Other  missionaries  and  teachers 
followed  his  example,  aud  at  length  succeeded  in  converting 
llie  Lapps,  and  in  some  measure  conquering  their  ancient 
harl)arism.  Nothing  can  be  uu»re  a<Imirable  than  the  self- 
deniul  and  heri>ic  fortitude  of  these  ministers  <tf  Christ,  for 
to  I'enounce  all  that  is  precious  in  the  eyes  of  the  world  to 
follow  n(tmads  little  better  than  .savages  through  the  wilds 
of  an  Arctic  country  surely  requires  a  courage  not  inferior  to 
that  of  the  soldier 

Whci  <.(  iks  j>ri  t'l  rnitiit  at  tlic  onimnir'-  j>ii>iifli. 


126 


TIIK    I'ULAll    WOIILI). 


Tlic  Lapliiiid  scliodlmaster  enjoys  an  annual  salary  <>(' 
twenty-five  dollars,  and  receives  besides  half  a  dollar  lor 
every  child  instructed.  But  the  jtriest  is  not  much  better 
oft',  as  liis  stipend  amounts  to  no  more  than  thirty  dollars  iii 
iiioney,  and  to  about  loO  dollars  in  produce.  Amon^-  this 
niisi'rably  j»aid  clerj^y  there  are,  as  in  Ic«dand,  men  worthy 
of  a  better  lot.  The  famous  Li»stadius  was  priest  at  Kares- 
uando,  seventy-five  leaj^ues  from  Tromsf),  the  nearest  tcnvn, 
and  a  hundred  leagues  from  Tornea.  His  family  lived  upon 
rye  bread  and  fishes,  and  but  rarely  tasted  reindeer  flesh. 
Chamisso  mentions  another  Lapland  priest  Avho  had  spent 
seven  years  in  his  parish,  which  lay  beyond  the  limits 
of  the  forest  rcj^^ion.  In  the  summer  he  was  completely 
isolated,  as  then  the  Lapps  wandered  with  their  herds  to 
the  cool  shores  of  the  icy  sea  ;  and  in  the  winter,  when  tlie 
moon  afforded  li^ht,  he  travelled  about  in  liis  sledj^e,  fre- 
quently bivouacking;;  at  the  temperature  of  free/in^;  mercury 
to  visit  his  Lapps.  Duriny;  all  that  time  his  solitude  had 
been  but  twice  broken  by  civilised  man  :  a  brother  had  come 
to  see  him,  and  a  botanist  had  strayed  to  his  dwelling-,  lie 
well  knew  how  to  appreciate  the  pleasure  of  such  meetinjL,'f<, 
but  neither  this  pleasure  nor  any  other,  he  said,  was  erpial  to 
that  of  seeing-  the  sun  rise  ajjain  above  the  hori/on  after  the 
lon^  winter's  ni;^-ht. 

It  is  a  siuf^ular  custom  that  the  pastors  preaching-  to  the 
Lapps  deliver  their  harangues  in  a  tone  of  voice  as  elevated 
as  if  their  audience,  instead  of  being  assendjled  in  a  small 
chapel,  were  stationed  upon  the  top  of  a  distant  mountain, 
and  labour  as  if  they  were  going  to  burst  a  bloodvi'ssel.  Dr. 
Clarke,  who  listened  to  one  of  these  sermons,  which  lastrd 
one  hour  and  twenty  minutes,  ventured  to  ask  the  reason 
of  the  very  loud  tone  of  voice  used  in  preaching.  The  min- 
ister said  he  was  aware  that  it  must  appear  extraordinary 
to  a  stranger,  but  that,  if  he  were  to  address  the  Laplanders 
in  a  lower  key,  they  would  consider  him  as  a  feeble  and 
impotent  missionary,  wholly  unfit  for  his  office,  and  would 
iiever  come  to  church;  tluit  the  merit  and  abilities  of  the 
preacher,  like  that  of  many  a  popular  politician,  are  always 
estinnited  by  the  strength  and  power  of  his  lungs. 

Though  the  Lapps   (thanks  to  the  efforts  of  their  spirituid 


LAPKANl)    .Sri'KUSTITKKV: 


1.^)7 


o'uidcs)  liurdlv  (.'vt'ii  ivnu'inln'r  l>v  iiiinu'  ilio  irods  of  tht'ir 
fiithcrs — Aijii,  Akka,  Tnona — tlioy  still  pay  a  scfivt  liouia^'«» 
to  tilt'  Saidas,  or  idols  of  wood  or  stoiio,  t»>  wliom  tlu'V  Avcri' 
iiccustoiiu'd  to  sacrifice  tlio  bones  aJid  lionis  of  the  rcindi'or. 
'I'licv  arc  ill  fact  an  cxtrcnitdv  superstitious  race,  faithfully 
Ih'lievini^:  in  <^di(»sts,  witchcraft,  and  above  all  in  .Stallo,  or 
Tniller,  the  Evil  Spirit  of  the  woods. 

Many  of  them,  when  about  io  i^-o  hunt  in;^-,  throw  a  stirk 
into  the  air,  and  then  take  their  way  in  the  direction  to 
wliich  it  points.  The  appearance  of  the  Aurora  l^orealis  fills 
till  ni  with  terror,  as  they  believe  it  to  be  a  si^n  of  divine 
wrath,  and  o'enerally  shout  and  howl  dnrin«j;  the  whole  dura- 
tion of  the  ^'rand  phenotnenon,  which  their  if]fnorance  con- 
nects with  their  own  petty  existence. 

The  pretended  gift  of  beiny;  able  to  predict  future  events 
is  coininon  among'  the  Laplanders.  The  st)rcerers  fall  into  a 
magic  ^deep,  during  which  their  soul  wanders.  In  this  state, 
like  the  somnambules  of  more  polished  nations,  they  reveal 
things  to  come,  or  see  what  i)asses  at  a  distance.  Men  and 
women  affect  the  power  of  fortune-telling'  by  the  c(»mmon 
trick  of  palmistry,  or  by  tlie  inspection  of  a  cup  of  li(pior; 
and  this,  to  ensure  the  greatest  possible  certainty,  must  be  a 
cup  of  brandy,  which  at  once  ex[>lalns  the  wlude  business  of 
the  [>rophecy.  The  Lapland  witches  pretended,  or  perhaps 
still  pretend,  to  the  power  of  stilling;  the  wind  or  causing  the 
rain  to  cease,  and  such  was  their  reptitation  that  English 
seamen  tradiiif^  to  Aichan^j^el  made  it  a  point  to  land  and 
buy  a  wind  from  these  j)oor  creatures. 

The  Lapps  are  a  dwarfish  race.  On  an  average,  the  men 
do  not  (^'xceed  five  feet  in  lieiglit,  many  not  ev(>n  reaching 
I'our,  and  the  women  are  considerably  K'ss.  ^lost  of  them 
:iit',  however,  very  ndnist,  the  t'ii'euml\'renee  of  their  chest 
iienrly  ecpiallinj^  their  height.  Their  cotnidexion  is  more  or 
less  tawny  and  copper- coloured,  their  hair  dark,  straight,  and 
l;iuk,  its  dangling  masses  adding  much  to  the  wildness  of 
their  aspect.  They  have  very  little  beard,  and  -as  its  want 
is  coiisidi'i'ed  a  beautv,  the  voimg  men  carefullv  eradicate 
tile  scanty  supply  given  them  by  nature. 

Their  dark  piercinjg  eyes  are  generally  dei'p  smdc  in  their 
iK'ads,  wid«dy  se})arated  from  each  other,  and,  lik»'  th(»se  of 


]r,H 


TIIK    I'ol.All    \V<)UIJ>. 


tlir  Tiirtni-M  r»r  ('liiiirsc,  oblitpiclv  slit  towiirMs  tin-  trinplfs. 
The  flM'('l<-b»>ii('S  iir«'  lii;_!-li,  the  iiioiith  piuclit'd  cli'sc.  Itiit 
wide,  the  intsc  ilut.  Tlio  eyes  arc  ''t'licnillv  sdvc,  ciilirr  in 
«'(ni,s('(nu'iioi'  (»t'  tlu'  Ititiu^jf  siiidkc  of  llu'ir  lints,  or  of  the  ic- 
friiftioii  from  tlio  snow,  sotliat  a  liajtj)  schhtin  attains  ii  IuliIi 
ji;,^o  witliont  btH'omiiif^'  blind.  Their  cMHintenanc'es  ^(Mici-allv 
present  a  repulsive  ronibination  of  stolidity,  low  eunnin;^:,  and 
obstinacy,  ilo^'j^nier,  who  dwelt  several  months  amon;^  them 
and  Siiw  diirin<jf  this  time  at  least  H(M>  F^apps,  found  not 
twenty  who  were  not  decidedly  U'jfly ;  an<l  Dr.  Clarke  says 
that  nmny  of  them,  wlien  more  advanced  in  years,  mi^ht,  if 
exhibited  in  a  mcna;j^«'rie  of  Avild  beasts,  be  considcreil  as  the 
lon^'-lost  link  between  man  and  ape. 

Their  Ic^s  are  extremely  thick  and  clumsy,  but  tlu'ir  hands 
areas  small  and  tinelv  shai>ed  as  those  of  any  aristocrat. 
The  reason  for  this  is  that  from  ^a'ueration  to  ^cju'ration 
they  never  perform  any  manual  lal)our,  and  the  vi-ry  trillin;;' 
wt)rk  which  they  do  is  necessarily  of  the  li<4htest  kind.  Their 
limbs  are  sinj^ularly  ilexible,  easily  fallin;^'  int<>  any  posture, 
like  all  the  Oriental  nations,  and  their  hands  are  constantly 
occupied  in  the  beginnin;^  of  conversation  with  hllino;  a  short 
tobacco-pipe,  the  head  bein^'  turned  over  vuo  shouhh'r  to 
the  iH'rson  addressed.  Such  are  the  traits  by  which  the  whole 
tribe  is  distinpfuished  from  the  other  iidiabitants  of  Europe, 
and  in  which  they  differ  from  the  other  natives  of  the  land 
in  which  they  live. 

The  sunnner  «i;arb  of  the  men  consists  of  the  '  poesk,' 
a  sort  of  tunic,  f»'enerally  made  of  a  very  coarse  lij^ht-coloiiri'd 
woollen  cloth,  reachinj^  to  the  knees,  and  fastened  round 
the  waist  with  a  belt  or  girdle.  Their  woollen  caps  are 
shaped  precisely  like  a  ni^ht-cap,  or  a  Turkish  fez,  with  a 
red  tassel  and  red  worsted  band  round  the  rim,  for  they  are 
fond  of  lively  hues  strongly  contrasted.  Their  boots  or 
shoes  are  made  of  the  raw  skin  of  the  reindeer,  with  the 
luiir  outwards,  and  have  a  peaked  shape.  Thoufjh  these 
shoes  are  very  thin,  and  the  Lapp  wears  no  stockings,  yi't 
lie  is  never  annoyed  by  the  cold  or  by  strikino-  against 
stones,  as  he  stuffs  them  with  the  broad  leaves  of  the  (.'(inx 
rcaiciirld,  or  eyperus  jjfrass,  which  he  cuts  in  summer  and 
dries.     This  he  first  combs  and  rid)s  in  his  hands,  and  tlu-n 


LAl'LANl)    crSTO.MS. 


1 .1!) 


wllolt' 


)l(»lirt'(l 

roiunl 


»ts    or 


[h   tl 
tl 


!•' 


V.'t 


L'iiiiist 


<'« 


II 


[V    illKl 

thru 


pliu'i'sit  ill  siu'h  ii  iiuiniicrlluit  it  covtM-s  not  only  liis  I'cct  but 
his  1<'<X'<  iili^'*..  ii"<l  lu'in;^"  thus  f^ii.ii'th'd,  h<'  is  (|iiit»"  HCi'urcd 
iiU'siinst  the  iiitt'iisc  (.•oM.  \Vitli  this  ^imss,  which  is  nii 
iithniriihh'  nou-condiiitov  of  hciit,  he  likrw  isc  stufVs  liis  ijflovcs 
ill  nnlcrto  pivstTvo  liis  IiiukIs.  I!ut  ;is  it  Avards  otl'  iho  cold 
ill  winter,  so  in  snnmicr  it  kt'cps  the  fct't  cool,  iind  is  c<»n- 
st'([iu'n<!y  nscd  at  all  seasons.  The  women's  a)»i)art'I  difl'crs 
very  littlt)  i'rom  that  of  the  otluM*  sex,  hut  their  ;^'irdles  an- 
more  ornamented  with  riny-s  and  chains.  In  winter  both 
sexes  are  so  packed  up  in  skins  as  to  look  inoii'  like  l>cars 
than  human  being's,  and,  when  sfpiattin;;-  accoi-din^-  to  the 
fashion  of  their  country,  exhibit  ii  niouiul  of  furs,  with  the 
head  resting  upon  the  top  of  it. 

Accordin;j,'  to  their  diiferent  mode  of  life,  the  Lapps  may 
be  aptly  sul)divided  into  F)iillla]>[tars,  or  iNlountaiii  Lapjis  : 
Skoyslai>pars,  or  Wood  Lapps  ;  and  Fislierla]t[ts. 

The  Fjiilllappars,  Avbo  form  the  greater  ami  most  charae- 
teristie  part  of  the  nation,  lead  an  exclusiv«'ly  pastoral  life, 
ami  are  constantly  wanderiii<j;'  with  tlu'ir  herds  of  reindeer 
from  place  to  place,  for  the  lichen  which  forms  the  chief  food 
of  those  animals  durin;^  the  ^nvater  part  of  the  year  is  soon 
cro})[)ed  from  the  niy^urd  soil,  and  recpiiros  years  for  its  re- 
pivMluction.  For  this  reason,  also,  this  people  do  not  herd 
to^-ether,  and  never  more  than  three  or  four  families  pitch 
their  huts,  or  tuy^iiria,  upon  the  same  spot.  Of  course  the 
(Iwellino-  of  the  nomad  Lapp  harmonises  with  his  va;4*rant 
habits;  a  rude  tent,  which  can  easily  l)e  taken  to  pieces,  and 
as  easily  erected,  is  all  he  requires  to  shelter  his  family  and 
chattels.  It  consists  of  flexible  stems  of  trees,  i)laced  t(»- 
l^'ethor  ill  a  conical  form,  like  a  stack  of  poles  for  hf»ps,  and 
covered  in  the  summer  with  a  coarse  cloth,  in  winter  witli 
additional  skins,  to  be  better  fenced  a<j;"ainst  tire  inclemencies 
of  the  climate.  To  form  the  entrance,  a  part  of  the  han^nno-, 
about  eiu-hteen  inches  wide  at  the  bottom,  and  terminatiim' 
ui>wards  in  a  point,  is  made  to  turn  back,  as  upon  hiiij^es. 
The  hearth,  consistin<^  of  several  hxv^o  stones,  is  in  the 
centre,  and  in  the  roof  immediately  above  it  is  a  square 
opening-  for  the  escape  of  smoke  and  the  admission  of  rain, 
siKtw,  and  air.  All  the  li|^ht  which  the  den  receives  Avhen 
the  door  is  closed  ci^nnes  from  this  hole.     The  diameter  of 


100 


Tin:    POI.AR    UOIII-T). 


Olio  of  lh«\s(' conit'iil  lints  ^^t'lH'mlly  imnsun's  sit  its  I)iist>  jio 
iiiuiv  lliiiii  six  t»'('t ;  its  whole  circmnt't'n'nt't',  i»r  ciMirsf,  does 
not  ox('<'«'(l  ci^rJitt'cn  I'voi,  and  its  cxtn'nn'  li('i;^lit  miiy  he 
iilxMit  t«'n  f't'ct.  TIm'  floor  is  vcrv  noarlv  t'ovenMl  with  roin- 
diMT  skins,  on  which  the  iiiinatcs  s(|nat  dnrin;^'  thf  (hiy,  and 
Hh'«'p  at  ni^dits,  contract int*'  their  lind)s  to^rcthcr and  Imddlin;^ 
r«»nnd  their  liearth,  so  that  each  individual  of  this  pi^'niy  race 
<»ccnj)i«'S  scarcely  more  space  than  a  don^.  ( )n  the  sides  of 
the  tent  are  snspended  a  nnniher  of  pots,  wooden  howls,  and 
other  honseludd  ntensils  ;  and  a,  small  chest  contains  the 
holiday  apparel  of  the  family.  .Snch  are  the  dwellings  of 
those  amon^'  the  La[)landers  who  are  called  wealthy,  and  win) 
•sometijnes  i)ossoss  very  considerahh'  property. 

Near  tlu»  tent  is  the  dairy  or  storehonse  of  the  estahlish- 
nient.  It  consists  of  nothim;  more  than  a  shelf  or  j»latform, 
raised  hetweeu  two  trees,  so  as  to  l>e  <»nt  of  the  reach  of  the 
doy;s  or  wolvos.  The  means  of  ascent  to  this  treasury  of 
onrds,  ch(»ese,  and  dried  reindeer  flesh,  is  siniply  a  tree 
stri|»[)ed  <»f  its  branches,  but  i»resentin^',  at  every  foot  or  so, 
knobs,  which  serve  the  sanu*  ])nrpose  as  staves  on  a,  ladder, 
the  tree  beiui,'  oblicpiely  reared  a-^ainst  the  i»latforni. 

Another  charact(>ristic  featnre  of  a  Lap})  encampment  is 
found  in  the  enclosures  in  which  the  reindeer  an?  penne<l 
during  the  ni^lit,  or  for  the  purpose  of  milkini;.  These  are 
oireus-liko  open  places,  each  of  a  <Iiameter  of  about  one 
liundrt'd  and  fifty  fiH't,  and  are  fornwd  by  stumps  of  trees 
and  poh's  set  upright  on  the  j^round,  and  linked  to«4vther  Ity 
horizontal  poles.  A;4ainst  the  latter  are  reared  birch  poles  and 
bramdu's  of  trees,  varying"  from  six  to  ten  feet  in  height,  with- 
out the  sliii'htest  attemjit  at  neatness,  thcMvliolebein^^  as  rude 
as  well  can  be,  n  sutticient  security  against  the  wolves  beinixall 
that  its  builders  desire.  The  milkin*;-  of  a  herd  of  reindeer 
j)resents  a  most  aninnite(l  scene.  When  they  have  been  driven 
within  the  enclosure,  and  all  outh'ts  are  secured,  a  Lapi>,  se- 
lectinjjf  a  lon^  thon<'^  or  cord,  takes  a  turn  of  both  ends  rouii<l 
his  left  hand,  and  then  ^^'athers  what  sailors  call  the  bi^ht  in 
loose  f(dds,  held  in  his  rii^ht.  lie  now  sin<j;;les  out  a  reindeer, 
and  throws  the  bij^ht  with  nnei-rin<j^  aim  over  the  antlers  of 
the  victim.  Sometimes  the  latter  makes  no  resistance,  but  in 
yeneral  the  moment  it  feels  the  toncdi  (tf  the  th(Ui«',  it  break-< 


1-A1M,AM>    DWKM.I.Vt, 


ir.i 


iiwiiy  IVoin  tilt'  s[)(it,  iiiid  is  only  sci-nrtMl  by  tlic  most  strciiuotis 
txi'i'tiiMis.  l-]v<Tv  iiiiiiutc  iiiiiv  l>t'  seen  ill!  iiimsiiiillv  power- 
I'll!  (li'cr  ruriniisly  «lr;i;i'^iii;4;  ii  Lapi*  ruuinl  and  roiiiul  IIk! 
ciirloiiit',  iiinl  souK'tiiiH'.s  it  I'iiii'Iy  nviTcniiics  tlu'  rostniiiit  «»t* 
till-  tlioii^r.  iuul  It'iiVfs  its  iiiitiiL;<»iiist  prustriitc  on  tlic  sod. 
Tills  i>iirt  nl"  tlio  sft'iic  is  luLridy  I'xritiii^-,  and  it  is  iinjxissiblo 
not  to  adniin*  the  traiiK-d  skill  cvinci'd  l)y  all  the  Lapiis, 
wonii-n  as  \\v\\  as  men.  Tlif  resistance  oi'  tlie  deer  bein-r 
overeonie,  the  Iia|»[)  takes  a  dexterons  liit(di  of  the  thon^ 
round  his  niu//.le  and  head,  and  tluMi  fastens  him  to  the 
trunk  of  a  |>rostrate  tree,  many  ofwiiieh  have  Ix-en  broiiylit 
>vitinu  the  levtd  enclosure  lor  that  es])e('ial  purpose.  ]Meu 
an(l  women  are  indiscriminately  en^'ap'd  lioth  in  siu;,dinLC 
oui  niilih  reins,  and  in  milking"  theni.  Kverv  one  is  lullv 
ofcuj'ied,  tor  even  the  little  children  are  practising-  the 
Ihrowiii-'  of  the  lasso,  in  wiiich  thev  evince  •'•reat  dexteritv, 
iiitiiouuh  their  streui^th  is  insnflicieut  to  hold  the  smallest  doe. 

When  the  pasture  in  the  iiei^hbourliood  is  fully  exhausted, 
w  hich  ^-enerally  takes  place  in  about  a  fortnight,  the  encamp- 
ment is  broken  up,  to  In*  erect«.'d  a;;*ain  on  some  other  spc»t. 
Ill  less  than  half  an  hour  the  tent  is  taken  to  i»ieces,  and 
pa'kt'd  with  all  the  h«»usi'hold  furniture  np«»n  the  backs  of 
reindeer,  who  In'  lonij^  trainiuLj^  acijuire  the  cajiacity  of 
siTviiiLi-  as  beasts  of  burden.  On  the  i(»urnev  thev  arc  bound 
tojctiiei-,  five  and  live,  with  thonn's  of  leather,  and  led  bvtho 
Women  over  the  mountains,  while  the  father  <»f  the  family 
in.cedis  the  marcdi  to  select  a  pr<»per  place  for  the  new 
'inanipment,  and  his  sons  or  servants  folK»w  with  the  re- 
iiiaiuiler  of  the  herd. 

Towards  the  end  of  sj^riny"  the  Lai>i»s  descen<l  tVom  the 
iiioiuilaius  to  the  sea.  When  they  ap[)roach  its  borders,  the 
rcju'let'r,  snittinj:^  the  sea  air  from  a  distance,  rush  tnmul- 
luoiisly  to  the  fjord,  where  they  take  lon;^-  drau^ihts  of  the 
^i\\\<'i\  water.  This,  as  the  Lapps  believ*',  is  essential  to 
tli'ir  liciilth.  As  the  sunnnin'  advances,  and  the  snow  melts, 
tih'v  ascend  higher  and  hiu'her  into  the  mountains.  At  the 
i'l'l'i'^atdi  of  winter,  they  retreat  into  the  woods,  where,  with 
iIk'  assistance  of  their  doi^-s  and  servants,  they  have  en.  •;li 
t"  do  to  keep  otl'the  attacks  of  the  wolves.  The  reindeer  do<^ 
is  about  the  size  <.>f  a  Scotch  terrier,  l)nt  his  head  bears  a 

M 


1G2 


TIIK    I'oLAK    UOULl). 


i    I 


woiidcrfiil  rnscniMiiiirc  (otliiit  <»f'tli<' Iviix.  ITIs  cdloui"  viii'ics 
(•oiisi(l<'riil>ly,  l>ii<  Hie  liuir  is  iiI\Vii}s  |(ni<^^  ami  hIim;;;;:}.  Iii- 
viiliiiiI)N'  as  ar««  liis  stTvicos,  In*  is  iicvt'i'tliclrss  (r»'ai»Ml  with 
^ival  cnicltv. 

Fur  tlicii"  winter  jounn'VH  tlu'  LaiipH  use  sl»'(l;:y«'s  or  skates. 
()\w  ol'  their  skates,  or  '  skiders,'  is  usually  as  lou<^  as  the 
person  who  wears  it;  the  other  is  ahout  a  loot  shorter.  The 
feet  stand  in  the  middle,  and  to  (hem  th«'  skates  are  fastened 
by  thon<,'s  or  withes.  The  skiders  are  made  of  lir-wood,  aixl 
covered  with  the  skins  (tf  youn^^  reindeer,  wliich  ohstruet  a 
ri'tro^n-ade  mov<'ment  by  actin;^'  like  bi'isth's  a«,'ainst  the 
snow  —  the  roots  p(»intiu;j;  towards  the  forepart  of  th«'  skat<', 
and  thus  preventing  their  slip[»inj^  ba(k.  With  tlu'se 
skiders,  the  fiapp  Hies  like  a  bird  (»ver  the  snow,  now  sealing' 
the  UKMintains  by  a  tortuous  ascent,  and  now  durtiny  «lown 
into  the  valley  : 

Oi'idi"  I'l  rvis  ft  fi;;iiiti'  niiiiliiis 
Ocinr  I'ltiru. 

Sudi  is  tlie  rajtidity  of  liis  course,  that  he  will  t»vertake  the 
swiftest  wild  beasts;  and  so  violent  the  exercise,  that  dnrinu 
the  most  ri^-onais  season  (»f  tlie  y«'ar,  when  earnestly  en^'a^-ed 
in  the  chase,  he  will  divest  himself  (»f  his  furs.  A  Ion<,'  pole 
with  a  round  ball  of  wood  near  the  end,  to  prevent  its  pieniii;^ 
too  deep  in  the  snow,  servos  to  stop  the  skater's  course 
when  he  wishes  to  rest.  The  Laplander  is  no  less  expert  in 
the  use  <»f  the  sledge,  or  'pulka,'  which  is  made  in  the  tbnii 
of  a  small  boat  with  a  convex  botbun,  that  it  may  slide  all 
the  more  easily  over  the  snow  ;  the  prow  is  sluu'i)  and  pointed, 
but  the  sledge  is  tlat  behind.  The  traveller  is  swatla'd  in 
this  carriage  like  an  infant  in  a  cradl(»,  with  a  stick  in  his 
hand  to  steer  the  vessel,  and  disengage  it  from  the  stones  or 
stum[»s  of  trees  which  it  may  chaiu.*e  to  encounter  in  lin' 
route.  He  must  also  balance  the  sledge  with  his  body,  te 
avoid  the  danger  of  being  overturned.  The  traces  by  which 
this  carriage  is  fastened  to  the  reindeer,  are  lixed  to  a  collar 
about  the  auinuirs  neck,  and  run  down  over  the  breast 
between  the  fore  and  hind-legs,  to  be  connected  with  the 
prow  of  the  sledge ;  the  reins  nuinaged  by  the  traveller  are 
tied  to  the  horns,  and  the  trapi)ings  are  furnished  with  little 
bells,  the  staind  of  which  the  animal  likes.  With  this  draught 
at  his  tail,  the  rcintlrer  will  travel  sixty  or  seventy  English 


IIOMK   SICK.VKS.^   n|'    LAIM'S. 


hit 


mill's  III  ji  (liiy  ;  oUcii   luTscvcriii'/  lifty   iiiilcs  without  iiiti'r 
mission,  jim|  witlioiil  tiikim''  uiiv   rt'lVcsliiiiciit,  oxctMit  « 


OCCJI- 


sioiuiily  iiioist<>)iiiio-  his  mouth  with  the  snow.  His  liiipliiml 
th'ivcr  l\U(»ws  liow  to  liiitl  liis  wiiy  through  the  wihh'i'iics.s 
with  ;i  snr|>i'isiii<„' rci'tiiinty  :  Ihtc  ii  rock,  th»'i'<>  n  lir-tn'c,  is 
impi'csscil  iis  a  lanthiiiirk  ou  liis  t'liithtul  mtuiorv,  au<l  thus, 
like  the  h«'st  pilot,  lit>  stcrrs  his  sh'd^'c  to  tho  <listaiit  end 
ol'  his  joiirncy.  I''n'(pi»'nily  the  Aurora  lii^hts  him  on  his 
way,  illumining'  the  siiow-rovcrt'd  landscape  with  a  mayfic 
luilliancy,  and  investing'  every  ohject  with  a  dream-like, 
>iipeinatural  heauty. 

Ihit  even  witliout  tlie  aid  of  tliis  nivsti'rious  coruscation, 
l,ai»laiid  is  ricli  in  ^'raud  and  picturesipie  features,  and  has  all 
the  roinauce  of  the  mountain  and  the  forest.  In  summer 
countless  rivulets  moauder  throiii^h  valleys  of  alpine  ver- 
(hire,  and  l>road  pelhu-iil  rivers  rush  down  the  slopes  in 
tlimideriii;^  cataracts,  emhracin^'  islands  dotlu'd  with  pine- 
tncs  of  incomparahle  diijnity  and  ^•raco.  ^Vhoever  has 
'^r<i\vn  up  in  scenes  like  tliese,  and  been  accustomed  from 
iiiliincy  to  the  uncontrolled  freeihmi  of  the  nomad  state,  re- 
crivt's  impressions  nevi-r  to  l>e  erased;  and  thus  we  cannot 
wonder  that  the  wild  Laplander  believes  his  coiinti-y  to  be  a 
terrestrial  paradise,  and  feels  nowhere  ha[>pybut  at  lionie. 

In  the  yi'iir  1811>,  a  Scotch  ^^entleman  attempted  to  ac- 
tliiaalise  the  reindeer  in  Scotland,  and  induced  two  yoiui^^ 
l,;i]>landers  to  iicc'onipany  tlio  herd  which  he  had  bought  for 
that  purpose.  The  reindoor  soon  perished,  and  the  La]*- 
laiiders  would  luive  died  of  nostalgia  if  they  had  not  been 
Milt  home  by  the  first  oj»portunity.  Prince  Jal>lonowskv,  a 
l'('li>li  nobleman,  Avho  travelled  about  thirty  years  since 
t]iroui;'h  a  ]>art  of  liussian  Lapland,  took  a  Lap[)  i^-irl  with 
liim  '.o  8t.  IV'tersbur;^'.  lie  i^ave  her  a  superior  educati(tn, 
:iiid  she  was  well  treated  in  evei-y  I'esjtect.  She  made  ra[>id 
pi'ou'ivss,  and  sooniod  to  be  jierfectly  riH-oiiciled  to  her  new 
Ik  line.  About  two  years  al'tt'r  her  arrival,  it  ha}>[>ened  that 
ii  Ifussian  pMitlenuin,  who  possi-ssed  extensive  estates 
iiiar  the  capital,  bought  a  small  herd  of  reindeer,  which 
iinived  under  the  nuidance  of  a  Lajip  tamily.  As  it  was 
winter-time,  and  these  people  had  broiii^ht  with  them  their 
tints,  their  sled;^es,  and  their  snow-shoes,  they  soon  became 


1G4 


TIIK    POLAR    AVORLP. 


ol)j«>ots  of  cniinsity,  and  crowds  of  fasliittiiablt^  visitors 
iloc-kcd  to  thoir  (MicainpiiuMit  :  aiiioii^"  dtlicrs  the  ^-ood- 
iialurcd  [(riiicc,  who  iinpnult'iitly  cfMidnclcd  his  i)U|»il,  the 
youii;^'  liiipland  ^irl,  to  see  li»'r  oountr\ men,  aii  interview 
which  he  supj>osed  would  <jfive  her  ^reat  ^ileasuro.  But 
fi'oiu  that  nionient  she  beeauie  an  altered  beiuijf ;  she  lost  her 
s[iirits  and  her  appetite,  and,  in  spite  of  every  care  and  atti.'U- 
tion,  her  health  declined  from  day  to  <lay.  One  nR)rnin<i' 
she  disa[»peared,  and  it  was  found  on  inquiry  that  she  had 
returned  to  her  family,  where  she  remained  ever  after. 

Another  very  reniarkahle  instance  of  the  Laplanders'  love 
of  their  country  is  related  by  Houstritni.  Durin*;"  the  war  of 
riustavus  III.  with  liussia,  a  youn;^'  Laplander  enlisted  in  a 
reii'inu'nt  wliich  was  passing  through  Tornea.  He  served  in 
several  campaigns  as  a  common  soldi«>r,  was  made  a  serg'eaut 
in  fousiMpuMice  of  liis  o-oo,!  ci»nilu(t  and  coura<j;v:  and  haviui,'' 
<i-iven  himself  the  t^'reaK'st  trouble  to  improve  his  education 
and  act|iiire  military  knowledi^-e,  at  len;^'th,  after  twenty  years 
<»f  servii-e,  attained  the  rank  of  captain  in  the  Swedish  army. 
After  tills  loujii"  time  spent  in  the  civilised  W(»rld,  and  haviuL;' 
become  at'customed  to  all  its  enjoyments  and  comforts,  lie 
felt  a  str<»n!i'  desire  to  revisit  his  family  and  his  counti-v. 
Scarcely  had  he  seen  his  native  mountains,  and  s^tent  a  few 
days  anions"  his  c(nnitrymen  and  the  reindr-er,  than  he  at  once 
quitted  the  service,  and  resinned  the  nomad  life  of  his  youth. 

The  Laplander's  chief  desire  is  for  peace  and  tranquillity. 
Exposed  to  all  the  jn'ivations  of  a  vai>Tant  life,  and  to  every 
inclemency  of  weather,  he  endures  the  cavatest  hardships 
with  ecjuanimity,  desirin;^'  only  not  to  be  disturbed  in  the 
enjoyment  of  the  little  that  is  his — not  to  be  interfered  with 
in  his  (»ld  customs  and  habits. 

Yet  this  same  peaceful  Laplander,  who  has  so  easily  sub- 
mitted to  a  forei^'u  yoke,  is  one  of  the  bttldest  hunters,  ami 
not  only  pursues  the  elk  or  the  wild  reindeer,  but  eni:;ai:'ts 
in  sin^'lc  combat  with  the  bear.  Like  all  the  other  Arcti'" 
irations  of  Kussia  and  Siberia,  he  has  stranu'e  notions  aVtout 
this  animal,  which  in  his  opinion  is  the  most  cunniny  ami 
^•ifted  of  all  created  bein^-s.  Thus  he  supposes  that  the  bcnv 
knows  and  hears  all  thatissai<l  about  him,  and  for  this  reason 
he  takes  n^ood  care  never  to  speak  of  him  disrespectfully.  It 
mav  seem  strani4'e  that  he  should  ventin-e  to  slav  an  aniiniil 


iii'XTiNij  Tin:  r.KAFi. 


IG.J 


which  ranks  so  hiLi-h  in  his  ostooni  ;  but  tht>  tonii)t;iti(»n  is  tmt 
slrtnti',  as  its  firsh  lias  an  fxct'llcnf  Ihivnur,  and  its  t'nr,  tll(MI^■h 
ni't  ii(.'ur  so  vahiahle  as  that  of  ihf  American  hhiek-boar,  is 
still  worth  from  fiftcfii  to  twoiitv  dollars. 


At  the  bt'u-innini'-   «it'  winter,  the   bear,  as    i 


s    Wt 


11  1 


known, 


rctirt's  eitht'r  int(»  a  rorky  cave,  or  under  a  rovei'of  brancdios, 
Itnvt'S,  and  moss,  and  remains  there  without  food,  and  plunL^'ed 
ill  sleep,  until  the  next  sprinjii'  reealls  him  t(»  a  more  active 
xisteueo.     Afti-r  the  first  fall  of  snow,  the  Ijait]*  hunters  <j; 


o 


into  the  forest,  and   look  out  for  traces  of  the  ln'jir.      Having* 

tnund  them  thev  carefully  mark  the  spot,  and  ret  urn  inu' after 

a  few  weeks  disturb  the  slumbering  brute,  and  excite  him   to 

an   attack.     It   is  not   considered  luwiourable   to  shoot  him 

while  slee|iiiiti- ;    and  in  many   jtarts  of  Lajtiand,  the  hunter 

who  W(»uld   kill   a   bear  with   any  other  weapon  but  a  lance, 

Would   be   universally  despised.     Hoi*'o-uer  uecGn)})anied  two 

biipps,  W(dl-arme(l  with  axes  and  stout  lances  with  I>arl»ed 

points,  on  one  of  these  bear-hunts.      When  abont  a  hiuidrcd 

paces  iVomthe  lair,  the  eomj)any  halted,  while  one  of  the  Lapps 

ad\anced  shi>utin<4-,  tellinu'his  comrades  to  ujakeas  much  noise 

n<  they  could.      When  about  twenty  paces  from  the  cavern,  ho 

stood  still  and  llun<4'sev»n'al  stones  into  it.      For  some  time  all 

\vas  (juiet,  so  that  Ho^'u'uer  bepin  to  fear  that   the   lair  was 

ilrsiitcd,   when  sutldenly  an  an^ry  i^rowl   was  heard.     The 

hunters  now  redouljh-d  their  clamour,  until  slowly,  like  an  hou- 

esl  citizen  disturbed]  in  his  noonday  slundiers,  the  benr  came 

out  of  his  cavern.     But  this  traiKpiillity  did  not  last  lonu,  f<>r 

ill''  lirute,  as  soon  as  he  perceiveii  his  nearest  enemy,  uttererl 

:i  short  roai".  and  rushed  upon  hiiiK     The  Liijip  coolly  awaited 

llie  onset  with  his  lance  in  rest,  until  the  liear.  ci  uiinLV  qui^'o 

ii'ar.  raised  himself  on  his  hanntdies,  and  be;;an  to  strike  at 

hiin  with  his  *V>repaws.     The  hunter  bent  down  to  avoitl  the 

strikes,  and  then,  suddenly  rising',  with  a  sure  eye  mid  with 

nil  his  niii4'ht.  pluuf^'ed  his  lance  into  the  heiirt  of  the  bc;ir. 

I'urinLf   this   short   conflict    the   [iapp  hatl   received  a  sji^lit 

wiiiind  on  the  hand,  l)ut  the  marks  of  the  bear's  teeth  were 

loniid  deeply  imiu'essed  upon  the  iron  (tf  the  lance.    Accordini;- 

to  an  ancient  custom,  the  wives  of  the  hunters  assemble  in  the 

iiut  ofoiie  of  them  ;   ami  as  soon  as  they  hear  tin-  retiirniiio 

sii'rtsnien,  hei^in  (diantiuL;'  or  howling'  a  sonu'  in  jn-aiseof  the 

hear.     When  the  men.  la<h>n  with  the  skin  and  Ih  sh  *>{'  the 


lofi 


TIIK    r(M,.\l{    \V<»KM>. 


iiiiiniiil,  iipproiU'li,  flicy  ;iiv  rcccivod  by  the  woiimmi  willi  <»]»- 
pr<»l)ri(>us  cpitliots,  iiiul  I'orbiddi'u  impress  tliroii^li  the  <l(»<>r ; 
so  tliiit  they  arc  <»l)lljj;V'(l  to  iiuilvc  a  hole  in  the  wall,  tliroii^li 
which  they  enter  with  their  S[M>ils.  This  eonuMly,  whidi 
is  meant  to  pacify  the  manes  of  the  victim,  is  still  acted, 
though  not  so  frerpu'ntly  as  fornu>rly ;  bnt  the  cnslom 
of  be^y-in^'  the  bear's  pardon  Avith  many  tears,  is  com- 
pletely ont  of  date.  The  animal's  interment,  however,  still 
takes  ]>lace  with  all  the  ancient  honours  and  cerem<»nies. 
After  having'  been  skinned,  and  its  ilesh  cut  ott",  the  body  is 
buried  in  anatomical  ord»'r  — the  head  first,  then  the  necls, 
the  forepaw,  i^vc.  This  is  done  from  a  Ix'lief  in  the  resurrec- 
tion of  the  l>ear,  who  having-  l)een  decently  burie<l,  will,  it  is 
hoped,  allow  himself  t(j  bo  killed  a  second  time  by  the  sann' 
Lapp ;  while  a  neglect  of  the  honours  due  to  him  would  e.x- 
as[>erate  the  whole  race  of  bears,  and  cause  them  to  wi'eak  ;i 
bloody  veny-eance  on  the  disrespectful  hunter. 

T^.-  wolf  is  treated  with  much  less  ceremony.  ]\rany  ;i 
wealthy  Lapp,  the  owner  of  a  thousand  reijideer,  has  been  re- 
duced to  poverty  by  tin' rava<ifes  of  this  sava<>'C  beast,  whi<li 
is  constantly  prowlinj^'  about  the  herds.  Hence  <»ne  <! 
the  first  questions  they  put  to  each  other  when  they  meet 
is,  •"  Lekor  rauheV'  'Is  it  peace  P '—which  meins  nothinu" 
more  than,  '  Have  the  wolves  molested  you  V^ '  8uch  is  tluir 
detestation  of  these  animals,  that  they  believe  them  to  Itc 
creatures  of  the  devil,  contaminatin*;"  all  that  touches  them 
while  alive.  Thus  they  will  never  shoot  a  wolf,  as  the  i^uii 
that  killed  him  W(»uld  ever  after  be  accursed. 

At  the  first  alarm  that  wolves  have  appeared,  the  neii^li- 
bours  assemble,  and  the  chase  begins.  For  miles  they  pursue 
him  over  hills  and  valleys  on  their  '  skiders,'  and  kill  him 
with  clubs,  which  they  afterwards  burn.  They  will  n<'l 
even  defile  themselves  with  skinniny,"  him,  but  leave  his  lii<l'' 
to  the  Finnish  or  Russian  colonists,  who,  bein<^  less  scru- 
pulous or  su}>erstitious,  make  a  warm  cloak  of  it,  or  sell  it  ['<>v 
a  few  dollars  at  the  fair. 

Amonpf  the  Fjall  Lapps  there  are  many  rich  owners  dt' 
1,000  or  l,oOO  reindeer,  -]00  of  which  fully  suffice  for  the 
maintenance  (^f  a  family.  In  this  case  the  owner  is  able 
to  kill  as  many  as  are  necessary  for  providint*'    his    house- 


"y 


hold  with  food  and  raiment,  while  the  sale  of  the  super 


DRUNK KXXIv^S    oi'   Tl!l']    LAI'I'S. 


If.7 


willi  < lit- 
he <loor  ; 

y,  wliicli 

il  aet.'d, 

custom 

is     C(tlH- 

•vcv.  still 
•ciiKtiiics. 
body  is 
ho  n«'('l<. 
rcsurrt'c- 
vill,  it  is 

th»'   SillMt' 

•o\\]{\  t'.x- 
wiviik  !i 

!^^i^ly  il 
i  been  vf- 
st,  whiili 
one  <it 
hey  inert 

notliiui:' 
is  their 

ni  to  he 
IDes  them 

the  gun 

10  neii^'h- 
•V  pursue 
kill  him 
will  net 
his  hide 
"ss  scru- 
^ell  itlnr 

wners  et 

for  the 

is  id>lo 

house- 

0  sup»'i*- 


tluous  siv'ins  iiinl  horns  ennbles  him  to  prirchaso  cloth. 
Hour,  luinlware,  iiiid  other  iieeessarv  artiides — not  to  lbr"et 
the  tohaeco  or  the  l)randy  in  \vhi(  h  he  (hdi^hts.  'Y]u'  price 
of  the  entire  carcase  of  a  reindeer,  skin  and  all,  varies  from 
out>  to  three  dollars  Norsk  (four  shillin;4S  and  sixpence  to 
thirteen  shillino-s  and  sixpence).  A  fine  skin  will  always  sell 
for  one  dcdlar  in  any  part  <»f  the  North,  it  will  thus  he  seen 
that  a  Lapp  possessing- a  heril  of  .">()()  or  l,<Mi(»deer  is  virtually 
11  capitalist  in  every  sense  of  the  word,  far  ri»dier  than  the 
vast  majority  of  his  Norwegian,  Swedish,  or  Jliissian  fell(»w- 
sidijeets,  although  they  all  atfeet  to  look  upon  him  with 
supreme  contempt. 

The  daily  food  of  the  mountain  La2)landers  consists  of  the 
fattest  reindeer  venison,  which  they  boil,  and  eat  with  the 
hroth  in  which  it  has  been  cooked.  Their  summer  diet  con- 
sists of  cheese  and  reindeer-milk.  The  rich  also  eat  bread 
haked  upon  hot  iron  plates. 

Their  mode  of  killing  the  reindeer  is  tlie  method  used  by 
the  hntchors  in  the  Stnith  of  Italy — the  most  ancient  and  best 
method  of  slaying  cattle,  because  it  is  attended  with  the  least 
pain  to  the  animal  aii<l  the  greatest  profit  io  its  possessor. 
They  thrust  a  sliarp-p<»iiited  knife  into  the  back  i)art  of  the 
heiid,  l>etween  the  horns,  so  as  to  divide  the  s^iinal  marrow 
I'ldiii  the  brain.  The  beast  instantly  drops,  and  <lios  without 
il  groiin  or  struggle.  As  socm  as  it  falls,  and  appoiirs  to  bi- 
dead,  (he  Lii[>laiider  plunges  the  knife  doxtercnisly  behind 
the  off-shoulder  into  the  heart ;  then  opening  the  animal,  its 
I'lood  is  found  in  the  stomach,  and  ladled  out  into  a  [tot. 
Boiled  with  fat  and  Hour  it  forms  a  favouriti^  dish. 

All  important  epoch  in  the  life  of  the  Fj;ill  Lii[tp  is  his  annuiil 
visit  to  one  of  the  winter  fairs  held  in  the  chief  towns  <tr 
villiiges  which  the  moie  industrious  Swedes,  Norwegians,  or 
Kins  hiive  founded  on  the  coasts  here  anrl  tlnnv,  <jr  in  the 
Well-watered  valleys  of  his  fatherland,  and  whicdi  he  attends 
htMjiieiitly  from  an  immeuse  distance.  After  a  slight  duty 
to  Government  has  been  paid,  business  begins ;  but  as  every 
hiirgain  is  ratified  with  a  full  glass  of  brandy,  his  thoughts 
get  confused  before  the  day  is  half  over — a  circumstance 
which  the  cunning  merchant  does  not  fail  to  turn  to  account. 
'  *n  iiwiiking  the  next  morning,  the  vexation  of  the  nomad 
ill  his  had  bargains  is  so  much  the  greater,  as  no  people  are 


Hii 


Till:    rOLAR    WOULD. 


move  iivowc'd  maniinoii-worsliippcrs  than  the  Lapps,  or  more 
iiicliut'd  to  siiiu',  ^vith  our  B\irii!>;: — 

()  wae  (111  tliL-  >ill(  r,  it  is  smi'  j>rr\ailiii'  ! 

Their  solo  objoot  .seems  to  bo  the  amassing  of  troasnro,  for 
the  sole  purpose  of  lioardiuy,-  it.  The  avarice  of  a  Laj^p  is 
•i^ralilied  in  eolk'etin^'  a  nnniher  of  silver  vessels,  or  pieces  of 
silver  coin  ;  and  l)ei?ii4'  unable  to  cai'ry  this  treasure  with  him 
on  his  journeys,  he  Iniries  the  whole,  not  even  making"  his 
wife  acquainted  with  the  secret  of  its  deposit,  so  that  when 
ho  dies  the  members  of  his  family  are  often  nnabh'  to  discover 
Avhiwe  he  has  hiildeii  it.  Some  of  the  La}»ps  possess  a 
hundredweii^ht  of  silver,  and  those  who  own  l,oOO  or  1,<I0<> 
reindeer  have  much  more;  in  short,  an  astonishiui;-  qnantiiy 
of  specie  is  dispersed  amonu'  them.  Silver  plate,  when 
offered  to  them  for  sale,  nuist  bo  in  a  polished  state,  or  they 
will  not  buy  it ;  for  such  is  their  i^-norauce,  that  when  the 
metal,  by  beiu^'  k'e[»t  buried,  becomes  tarnished,  tlu'v  conceive 
that  its  value  is  impaired,  and  exchani^'o  it  for  other  silver, 
whicli,  beiny"  repolished,  tliey  believe  to  bo  new.  The  mer- 
chants derive  j^-reat  benoht  from  this  traffic. 

Brandy  and  tobacco  are  the  chief  luxuries  of  tlu'  Lapps. 
The  tobacco-pi[)o  is  never  laid  aside,  except  during*  meals  ;  it 
is  even  used  bv  the  women,  who  also  swahow  spirits  as 
fi'i-eedily  as  the  men  ;  in  fact,  both  sexes  will  almost  part  witli 
life  itself  lor  the  orutification  of  dram-driidcin^-.  If  you 
walk  up  to  a  La))p,  micouthly  S(]uatted  before  ids  tent, 
his  verv  first  salutation  is  nuule  l)v  stretching,'  forth  a  tawnv 
hand,  and  dennindiny,  in  a  whining  tone,  '  Tabak,'  or 
*  Braendi.'  Dr.  C*larke  relates  an  amusin^i'  instance  of  their 
proiUMisity  for  spirituous  liquors.  On  his  very  first  visit  to 
one  of  their  tents,  ho  o-ave  the  father  c)f  the  familv  aboe.t  a 
piid;  of  brandy,  thinking  he  would  husband  it  with  great 
car(\  :is  he  had  seen  him  place  it  behind  him,  upon  his  bed, 
near  the  skirting  of  the  tent.  The  daughter  now  entered,  and 
bem'uvd  for  a  taste  of  the  brand v,  as  she  had  lost  her  share  bv 
being  absent.  The  old  man  made  no  answer,  but  when  tho 
request  was  repeated,  he  slily  crept  round  the  outside  of  the 
tout,  until  he  can«o  to  the  spot  where  the  brandy  was,  when, 
thrusting  his  arm  beneath  tho  skirting,  ho  drew  it  out,  and 
sv.-allowed  the  whole  tuute:its  (f  the  bottle  at  a  drau'dit. 


TlIK    FltRKSJT    I.Al'rs, 


I6d 


(ir  more 


suro,  for 
Lapp  i^ 
pii'cos  of 
,vith  liini 

tint  wlu'ii 
)  discover 
niiS.st'SS  II 
)  or  1,000 
quantity 

c,  or  tlioy 
Avlieii  tlie 
V  coiiceivo 
her  silver, 
The  iiior- 

le  Lapp^- 
meals ;  it 
s')irits  as 
part  with 
•.     If  you 
his  tent, 
h  a  tawny 
abak,'    or 
lee  of  their 
st  visit  to 
Iv  about  a 
,vith  fi'reiit 
n  his  1h'»1, 
itereil,  an<l 
>r  share  I'V 
It  when  tlio 
side  of  the 
iwas,  ^vhen. 
it  out,  and 


The  practice'  of  clraiii-(lriiihiii'4'  is  so  LTeiieral  that  mothers 
pour  the  horrid  dose  dowu  the  throats  oi"  tlieir  iiil'ants.  Their 
christi'isinys  and  fuuerals  heeouu^  mtnv  pretexts  for  indul^'iui^ 
in  brauily.  But  their  mild  aud  pacilh'  dis[)ositioii  shows 
itself  in  their  druulceuuess,  wliicdi  is  uiauifested  only  in  Ijowl- 
iii'^-,  jnmi»in<4',  and  laUL^hinn',  and  in  a  eravinn'  for  more  drams 
uil!i  hvsterie  seroams,  until  thev  fill  senst-h'ssou  the  "ground 


-w 


Idle  at  the  same  time  thev  will  suffer  kiiks,  (  nil's,  blow; 


and  provocations  of  any  kind,  without  the  smallest  irascibi- 
litv.  When  sobi«r  thev  are  as  !>-entle  as  lamljs,  aud  the  soft- 
f  their  lan^Mum-e,  added  to  tiieir  eH'ennnate  shrill  tone 


ness  o 
>f 


fkabb 


ds  with  th 


»lac-able  di 


uu 


-ht. 


ot  voic  ',  reuiarkably  correspoutls  with  tlien-  [»lac-aiile  disposi- 
t'lou.  An  amiable  trait  in  the  characttu*  of  the  l^app  is  the 
warmth  of  his  iifl'ection  towards  his  wife,  his  children,  and 
his  dependents.  Xothini;'  can  exceed  the  c()rdiality  of  their 
mutual  <;'reetin^-s  alter  sepanition.  and  it  is  t(»  he  feured  that 
liut  few  married  men  in  England  cttuld  match  ihe  Lapj) 
husl)and,  who  assured  C'astren  that  during-  thirty  years  of 
wt'illock  n(»  AV(U'se  word  had  passed  between  himself  and  his 
wife  than  *•  Loddadsham,"  or  *  My  little  bird.' 

In  s[>ite  of  his  iatii^uini^-  life,  and  the  insuHicieiit  shelter 
afforded  hint  by  his  hut,  the  I'jall  Lapp  is  ^-enerally  vii^orous 
•and  healthv,  and  not  seldom  lives  to  a  hundred  vears  aue. 
('ontinual  exercise  in  the  open  air  braces  his  constitution.  Jiis 
warm  clothing"  protects  him  a^'ainst  the  cold  ot  winter,  aud 
his  i^-eiierous  meat  diet  nuiintains  his  strength.  To  pi  event 
till'  scurvy,  he  eats  the  berries  of  the  l^iui'i  frirni  uiiirnm,  or 
Ji'iiliii^  < '/i(nitii)ii(iriis,  and  mixes  the  stems  of  the  Anj^elica 
ainoULJi'  his  food.  But  his  chief  remedy  aiiaiD^t  this  and 
every  other  b(»dily  evil  is  warm  reindeei'-ljlood.  Avhit-h  ho 
drinks  with  deli^^ht  as  a  universal  jianacea. 

The  Sko^'s  Lajip,  ctr  Forest  lia[tp,  occupies  an  intermediuto 
f^'rade  between  the  Fjall  La[-[»  and  the  Fisher  r^app,  as  (ishin<jf 
is  Ins  summer  oeeupatiiui,  and  hunting-  and  the  tendini;"  of 
his  rein<leer  that  of  the  winter  mcuiths.  His  herds  not  bein;^ 
so  numerous  as  those  of  the  Fjall  La]ip,  h<'  is  not  driven  to 
constant  mi^-ration  to  j)rocure  tliemfood;  but  they  require 
more  care  than  his  divided  pursuits  allow  him  t(»  bestow 
upon  them,  aud  lience  he  inevitably  descends  to  tlu'  condi- 
tiiui  of  the  Fisher  Lapp.  Liistadius  describes  his  life  as  on**  of 
i'::''  happiest  on  earth     as  a  constant  tdiauL!'!'  between   the 


170 


TIIK    rOLAU    WORLD. 


a{]frccaljlo  pnstinK*  of  fisliiiiLT  and  tlio  ii(>l)l(^  amusiMncnt  ofilic 
chaso.  lie  is  not,  lilcc  tlic  Mountain  La})]),  ('Xi»os('(l  to  all  llic 
sovority  of  the  Arctic  winter,  nor  so  poor  as  the  Fisher 
Lajt]>.  He  is  often  heard  to  sinj^  niuler  the  <j;-reen  canopy  of 
the  lirs. 

The  vilhijifes  of  the  Fisher  Lapps — as  they  are  found,  for  in- 
stance, on  the  bauks  of  Lake  Eniira — afford  ii  by  no  moans 
pleasino-  spectacle. 

About  the  miserable  hnts,  which  are  shajx'less  masses  (»f 
min^'led  earth,  stones,  and  branches  of  trees,  and  scarcely 
equal  to  the  dwelliiif^-s  of  the  wretched  Fue^ians,  heaps  of 
stinkin;^-  fish  and  other  offal  taint  the  air  with  their  pesti- 
lential odours.  When  a  stran|4"er  approaches,  the  inmates 
come  pouring"  out  of  their  narrow  <loorway,  so  covered  with 
dirt  and  vermin  as  to  make  him  recoil  with  disgust.  Ntit 
in  the  least  ashamed,  however,  of  their  ai)pearauce,  they 
approach  the  stran<^er  and  sluike  his  hand,  accordinfjf  to  the 
code  of  Lapp  politeness.  Aft(^r  this  preliminar}',  he  may 
exi)ect  the  followin;^-  questions  :  '  Is  peace  in  the  land?  Ilcnv 
is  the  emperor,  the  bishoj),  and  the  captain  of  the  district?  ' 
The  more  inquisitive  of  the  filthy  troop  then  ask  after  the 
home  of  the  strangvr,  and  beinu;  told  that  it  is  bcn-ond  the 
mountains,  they  further  inquire  if  he  comes  from  the  lan<l 
where  tobacco  otows.  For  as  our  imaj^iiuition  loves  to 
wander  to  the  sunny  regions, 

■\Vlii'rc  tlio  citron  and  oli'vp  arc  fairest  of  IVuif, 
And  till'  voi(.'o  of  tlu>  niglitingalo  never  is  mute  ; 

SO  the  f^incy  of  the  Lai)p  conceives  no  greater  ]>aradise  than 
that  which  produces  the  weed  that,  along  with  the  brandy- 
bottle,  aft'ords  him  his  highest  luxury. 


Ti.e  Glutton. 


Tornea  Uivor. 


(iiArTER  XI n. 

MATTiriAS    ALFXANDKIl    f'ASTlJKX. 

Hi-  l>ii'tlii)l;u'('  iinil  lliv-f  Stuili(>s— .Iniirnov  in  T.aiilainl,  1>."S — 'I'lir  Iwalojoki — 
Thi' JiMkf  ot"  Kiiiu'ii — Till' Pastor  of  I'lxjuki  —  l'"rom  I{<nvaiiionii  tu  Kriui— Sc- 
i'UkI  \'(iyaiir,  ISll-ll — Sttniii  on  tlu' W'liiti'  Sen — Kctiirn  to  Aivliaiigcl — TIic 
TiiinliMs  ol'  tile  European  Samojcdis — Mcsm — I'liivirsal  I>rtaikf'iinffs — Sl(il;ii> 
.liiurni'v  ti)  l'iistosi'r>k  A  Samoji'dc  Tcat'lier — 'I'umlra  Siurms — Alsiiulnntd 
iiihl  alont^  in  tlu;  Wilderness — I'nsfosersk — Our  Traveller's  i'erseeutiuns  at 
I  stsylinsk  and  Isllenl^k — Tlie  I'nsa — ('mssinji  tlio  Ural — nhdorsk — Sepond 
Silii'ian  .Iiiurney,  ISlii— IS— Overilcwin^'  of  tlu'  <i!>i — Surgut --lu'asru'jar^k 
A::reealil('  Surprise — Turuehansk  \'oyatro  down  the  ,Ii  nissii — (.'astreii's 
Study  at  IMaehina — l'"roni  Dudinka  tu  Tolstoi  Noss— Frozen  l"\'et — Jieturn 
\'iiyap:e  to  the  South-  I'mzeu  fast  iMi  tie-  Jeiiis>ei-  AVniidi'rful  I'r.  servjiticm  — 
•l^uruey  aeross  the  Chinese  Frontiers,  and  to  Transliaikalia — luturn  to  Finland 
■    I'mfessorship  at  llelsingfors  -  Death  of  Castn'n,  ISo.j. 

MATTHIAS  ALEXANDER  CA8TREX,  wlioso  intorost- 
inj4"  journeys  form  the  subject  of  the  present  eliapter, 
WHS  born  in  tlie  year  ISl-J,  at  Rowanienii,  a  Finland  villa<^e 
sitnatetl  about  forty  miles  from  the  head  of  tlie  Oulf  of 
l!t»tlinia,  immediately'  under  the  Arctic  Circle;  so  that,  of 
nil    men  who  have   atttiined    celebrity,    probably    none    can 


i;i 


Tin:  poLAi:  wouij). 


f 


boast  of  a  inoro  nortlicrn  birtliplaco.  "Wliilc  still  n  si'liolnr 
at  tho  Ah'Ximdt'r's  Collo^a'  of  llclsin^fors,  ho  rosohctl  to 
devote  liis  lite  to  the  study  of  the  nations  of  Finnish  «»riyiii 
(Fins,  Laplanders,  Sanutjedes,  Ostjaks,  t^e.) ;  and  as  books 
g"ave  but  an  insuttieient  account  of  theuj,  each  passiniif  vejir 
streny;thened  his  desire  to  visit  these  tribes  in  their  own 
haunts,  and  to  learn  fn »ni  themselves  their  lan'>uaL>:es,  their 
liabits,  and  their  history. 

We  may  ima<^ine,  therefore,  the  joy  of  the  enthusiastic 
student,  whom  poverty  alone  had  hitherto  prevented  from 
carryin<4-  out  the  schemes  of  his  youth,  ^vhen  Dr.  Ehrstrom, 
a  friend  and  medical  ftdlow-student,  proposed  to  take  him  as 
a  companion,  free  of  expense,  on  a  tour  in  La[iland.  No 
artist  that  ever  crossed  the  A1[)S  on  his  way  to  sunny  Italy 
could  feel  happier  than  (^istren  at  the  prospect  of  phnij^'iny 
into  the  wildernesses  of  the  Arctic  zone. 

On  June  2.''>,  18:>8,  the  friends  set  out,  and  arrived  on  tho 
30th  at  the  small  town  of  Muonioniska,  where  they  re- 
mained   six    weeks — a    delav    Avhich    Castren    put    to    fj'ood 

«  J.  ~ 

account  in  learnini;'  the  La}>p  lanj^-uajj^e  from  a  native  cat(^- 
chist.  At  lenyth  the  decreasiuLj  sun  warned  the  travellers 
that  it  was  hi^'h  time  to  (,'ontiuue  their  journey,  if  they 
wished  to  see  more  of  Lapland  before  the  winter  set  in  ;  and 
after  havino-,  Avith  fjreat  ditHcidty,  crossed  the  mountain- 
ridi;"e  which  forms  the  watershed  between  the  (Julf  of 
Bothnia  and  the  Polar  Sea,  tlu'y  embarked  on  the  romantic 
Iwalojoki,  where  for  three  days  and  ni<j;hts  the  rushing- 
waters  roared  around  them.  In  spite  of  these  dany-erons 
rapids,  they  were  oblii»"ed  to  trust  themselves  to  the  stream, 
Avhich  every  now  and  then  threatened  to  dash  their  frail 
boat  to  pivices  a<^'ainst  the  rocks.  Armed  with  lonj>*  oars, 
they  were  continually  at  work  during-  the  daytime  to  g-uard 
a;4'ainst  this  peril;  the  niiihts  were  spent  near  a  larg-e  lire 
kindled  in  the  open  air,  without  any  shelter  ag-ainst  the  rain 


d 


and  win( 


1. 


The  Iwalo  river  is,  during  the  greater  ])art  of  its  course, 
encased  between  high  rocks  ;  but  a  few  miles  before  it  dis- 
charges itself  into  the  hirge  Lake  of  Enara,  its  valley 
improves  into  a  tine  grassy  j)lain.  8nnill  islands  covered 
with  trees  divi<le  the  wat,>rs,  which  now  How  more  tran- 
quilly :  soon  also  traces  of  culture  appear,  and  the  astonished 


CASTKKNS   TOIR    IN    I.AIM.ANP. 


17.1 


?onrso, 

it  (lis- 

Vi;llt\v 

tniii- 
mislit'il 


fnivi'ilcr  finds  in  the  villiii^c  of  Kyrli,  not  wrotclnxl  Liip- 
liiiid  huts,  l)nt  well-built  houses  of  Finnish  settlers,  with 
j^rt'eii  nieii(l(»ws  and  corntields. 

The  beautiful  Liike  of  Enara,  sixty  miles  loiij;  and  forty 
miles  broad,  is  so  thickly  studded  with  islands  that  they 
iiiive  ntner  yet  bt-en  <-ouiited.  After  the  trayellers  had  spent 
ii  ft'W  days  auion;j^  the  Fisher  L:i]»j>s  who  soj(»urn  on  its 
liinders,  they  proeeeded  northwards  to  Ft/jidci,  the  limit  of 
tlu'ir  expedition,  and  one  of  the  centres  of  liajtland  eivilisa- 
tinn.  as  it  boasts  of  a  ehundi,  which  is  served  by  a  man  of 
lii^h  character  and  of  no  little  ability.  On  ac'e(M)tin'r  his 
cliii'^"(',  this  SLdf-denyinf4'  priest  had  performed  the  journey 
iVoin  Toniea  in  the  deiith  of  winter,  accomi)anied  by  a  younsj 
vit'c  and  a  female  r(dati(»n  of  the  latter,  fifteen  years  of  aire. 
111'  had  found  the  parsonaye,  vacated  by  his  predecessor,  a 
wretched  ]tnildin^%  distant  some  fifteen  miles  from  the  near- 
est Lai>[>  habitation.  After  establishing'  himself  and  his 
iainily  in  this  dreary  tenement,  he  ha<l  returned  frou"  a  [las- 
tnial  excursion  to  find  his  home  destroyed  by  a  fire,  from 
which  its  inmates  had  escaped  with  the  loss  of  all  that  they 
|i(»ssessed.  A  miserable  hut,  built  for  the  tempoi'ary  shelter 
111' the  La[»ps  who  res«»rt<.'d  thither  for  divine  service,  afforded 
the  family  a  refuiie  for  the  winter.  He  had  since  contrived 
tolniild  himself  another  dwelling',  in  whicdi  our  parry  found 
him,  after  five  years'  residence,  the  father  of  a  family,  and 
the  chief  of  a  happy  household.  Gladly  would  the  travellers 
liave  remained  sonu.»  time  longer  under  his  hospitable  roof, 
l»ut  the  birds  of  passaj^e  were  moving'  to  the  south,  Avarnin<^ 
till '111  to  follow  their  example. 

Thus  they  set  out,  on  Auy-ust  15,  for  their  homeward 
voyay-e,  which  proved  no  less  ditHcult  and  laborious  than  the 
fnrmer.  At  leuyth,  after  wandering-  throuu^h  deserts  and 
swamps — fre(piently  wet  to  the  skin,  and  often  without  food 
fur  many  hours — they  arrived  at  Kowaniemi.  where  they 
embarked  on  the  Komi  river.  '  With  conflictiiio-  feelings,' 
says  CiiS^cren,  '  I  descended  its  stream  :  for  every  cataract 
was  not  only  well-known  to  me  fnun  the  days  of  my  ear- 
liest childhood,  but  the  cataracts  were  even  the  only  ac- 
(juaintances  which  death  had  h-ft  me  in  the  place  of  my 
Vilrth.  AhuiQ:  with  the  mournful  imi>ressif»ns  which  the 
li 'ss  of  beloved  relations   nuide  upon    my  mind,  it  was   de- 


174 


TIIK    rol.All    WOKI-l). 


a, 


li;,'lii<'ii!  1<>  riMH'W  my  iufcrcoiirso  with  llic  rapid  strciiin  jim«I 
its  wairrCiills  —  tli(»so  boisterous  ]ilaytV'Il«»\vs,  wliirU  IiikI 
often  l)i-(»ii'4lit  uie  into  peril  wlieii  a  l»oy.  Now,  as  bet'oi'e,  it 
was  a  pleasant  sport  to  mo  to  l)e  hurried  alon;^  hy  theii- 
tumultuous  waters,  and  to  be  wetted  by  their  sj>ray.  The 
boatmon  often  tried  to  persuade  nu-  to  lan<l  before  passiii;;- 
the  most  danj^vrous  waterfalls,  and  decdarod  that  tiioy  could 
not  l>e  answerable  for  my  safety.  IJut,  in  spite  of  all  their 
r»>monstranees,  I  remained  in  tho  boat,  nor  had  1  reason  to 
re[»eiit  of  my  boldness,  for  Ife  who  is  the  steersman  of  all 
boats  •j^ranted  us  a  safe  arrival  at  Kemi,  where  our  Lapland 
journey  terminated.'  * 

in  IS  II  (.'astn'-n  published  a  metrical  translation,  into  the 
.Swedish  lani4'ua^»'e,  of  the  '  Kalewala,'  a  cycle  of  the  (ddest 
poems  of  the  Fins;  and  at  the  end  of  the  same  year  pro- 
ceeded on  his  first  ^'•reat  Journey  to  the  land  of  the  European 
Samqjedes,  and  from  thence  across  the  n(»rthern  Ural 
Moimtains  to  Siberia.  In  the  famous  convent  of  St>lovetskoi, 
situated  on  a  small  island  in  the  White  Sea,  he  hoped  to  find 
a  friendly  teacher  of  the  Samojede  lan^"ua<^'e  in  the  Archi- 
mandrite Wenjaniin,  who  had  laboured  as  a  missionary 
amon<^  that  savaj^e  people ;  but  the  churlish  diy,'nitary 
jealously  refused  him  all  assistance,  and  as  the  tundras  of 
the  Snmojedes  are  only  accessible  durin«^'  the  winter,  he 
resolved  to  turn  the  interval  to  account  by  a  journey  amon>^- 
the  Terslci  Lap]ts,  who  inhabit  the  western  shores  of  the 
White  Sea.  With  this  view,  in  an  evil  hour  of  the  27tli 
June,  1812,  though  sufferin;^-  at  this  time  from  illness 
severe  enou^-h  to  have  detained  any  less  persevering  traveller, 
he  embarked  at  Archan<);el,  in  a  lar«;;-e  corn-laden  vessel,  with 
a  reasonable  ja'ospect  of  beino- landed  at  Tri  Ostrowa  in  some 
twenty-four  hours  ;  but  a  dead  calm  detained  him  eight  days', 
dui'iuLf  which  he  had  no  ch(»ice  but  to  endure  the  horrible 
stench  of  Russian  sea-stores  in  the  cabin,  or  the  scorcliiiii>' 
sun  on  deck.  At  len<:>'tli  a  favourable  Avind  arose,  and  after 
a  few  hours'  sailing-  nothing  was  to  be  seen  but  Avater  and  sky. 
Soon  the  Terski  coast  came  in  view,  with  its  white  ice- 
capped  shore,  and  Castren  hoped  soon  to  be  released  from 
his  lioatine-  prison,  when  suddenly  the  wind  chang^ed,  antl, 

'^  Iui.-<(}1  in  Ld/ip/iiiK/,  i\<: 


CA.STKK.N  S    UKTl  K.V    T(»    AllClIA.NMiKL. 


175 


iin  Tfiisiiii,'  (u  u  stonii,  tlirt'iitt'iu'il  to  dasli  them  «ni  the  fliU'ri 
i>rfhi'  Sol»»vel/k(»i  Ishimls. 

•  |{(»th  th('fii|»tiiiM  aiul  thi'  s^hip's  cuii)[>aiiy  be^Mii  to  tl«'si>iiir 
<>r  tht'ir  livos  ;  ami  jtmycrs  hiiviiii^'  hcoii  rcsortod  to  in  vain, 
[it  (.-oil jure  the  daiii^'iT,  ^^-nieral  (Irimkcinit'ss  was  the  lu'xt 
ri'suiiivc.  TJie  oa]»taiii,  tiiidiii^'  his  own  bi'aiidy  too  weak  to 
lirdciiiv  the  .stupefaction  he  desired,  h'lt  nie  no  peace  till  1 
had  niven  hiui  a  bottle  of  rum.  After  having-  by  dey:reeM 
riiiptird  its  contents,  he  at  length  obtained  his  end,  and  ftdl 


Th 


le  crew,  lollowini^'  his  example, ilrop[»e< 


le,di 


d 


asleej*  in  the  cabin 
dnwu  one  by  one  into  their  cribs,  and  the  ship  was  hd't, 
without  guidance,  to  the  mercy  of  the  winds  and  waves.  I 
aloiic  remained  on  decdc,  and  j^'loomily  awaited  the  decisive 
moment,  lint  I  soon  discovered  that  the  wind  was  veering 
to  the  oast,  and  awakening-  the  cai>tain  from  his  drunken 
letliar!4-v,  sent  him  on  deck,  and  to(dc  jtossession  of  his  bed. 
Kxliausted  by  the  dreadful  scenes  of  the  day,  I  soon  fell  into 
a  deep  slumber;  and  when  I  awoke  the  following-  niornin;^,  I 
t'ound  myself  ayain  on  the  eastern  coast  of  the  White  8ea,  at 
the  loot  of  a  hi'di  shelterinu*  rock- wall.' 

Continued  bad  weather  and  increasin<^'  illness  now  forced 
i'astren  to  <;-ive  up  his  projecti'd  visit  to  the  Lapps,  and 
wlien  he  returned  to  Archan<4vl,  both  his  health  and  his 
I'lU'se  were  in  a  sad  condition.  He  had  but  tifteen  rouble's 
ill  his  pocket,  but  fortunately  he  foiind  some  Samojecle  bey- 
'_'iirs  still  poorer  than  himself,  (nie  oi'  whom,  for  the  reward 
nt'  an  occasional  i;"lass  of  brandy,  consented  to  become  at  once 
his  host,  his  servant,  and  his  private  tutor  in  the  Samojede 
laiit^ua^v.  In  till!  hut  and  society  of  this  sava<^v,  lie  ])assed 
the  remainder  of  the  summer;  his  health  improved,  and 
Soon  also  his  finances  chaiif^ed  "wonderfully  for  the  better — 
the  (Jovernment  of  Finland  liaviie.;-  «^n'anted  him  a  thousand 
silver  roubles  for  the  prosecution  of  his  travels.  With  a 
liuht  heart  he  continued  his  linnuistie  studies  until  the  end 
of  November,  when  he  started  with  renewed  enthusiasm  for 
the  land  of  the  European  Samojedes.  These  immense  tundras 
extend  from  the  White  Sea  to  the  Ural  mountains,  and  are 
btiimded  on  the  north  by  the  Polar  8ea,  and  on  the  south  by 
till-  rcf^'ion  of  forests,  which  here  reaches  as  high  as  the 
latitudes  of  00°  and  07^ 


170 


Tin:  I'oi-Aii  wtun  n. 


'J'lic  liU'^t'  river  Vfl.s.-lioiM  tlividfs  tlifsc  tlrciirv  wastes  into 
two  uiit'iniiil  liiilvcs,  whilst  scanty  j»(»|»iilati<Mi,  as  may  easily 
be  ima'^niied,  is  siiiik  in  the  deepest  harliarisiii.  It  euiisists 
of  iiniiiadie  Sainojedcs,  and  <d'  a  tew  Jiussiaiis,  \vhi»  inhaliif 
some  niiseraide  settU'ineiits  aloiiy:  the  <aviit  stream  and 
its  tributary  livers. 

To  hiirv  iiimself  Ibi-  a  wlmle  vear  in  tliesc  nielancholv 
deserts,  ("astrt'-ii  left  Andiaiiyel  in  N(tvend)er,  IH  I2.  As  far 
as  Mesen,  :»l'>  versts  north  of  Ar(han;j:i'l,  the  scanty  po[>ula- 
tiou  is  Knss  and  Christian.  At  Mesen  civilisation  ceases, 
and  further  north  the  Samojede  retains  for  llie  most  part, 
Avith  his  primitive  habits  an<l  lany;na;jfe,  his  heiitJien  faitli— 
havin;4".  in  fact,  borrowed  not liiuL;' from  occasional  intercourse 
■with  civilised  man  but  the  means  and  practice  of  drmikeu- 
iiess.  Castrt-n's  lii'st  care,  on  his  arrival  at  l^^esen,  was  t(» 
look  for  a  Samojede  interjiretcr  and  tciiclier:  l)ut  he  was  as 
unsuceessful  here  as  at  Somsha,  a  village  some  forty  versts 
further  oii,when^  drunkenness  was  tlio  order  of  the  day.  lie 
took  the  Uiost  tem}>erat<:  person  he  could  tind  in  all  Somsha 
into  his  service,  but  even  this  moderate  man  would,  accordini,' 
to  our  ideas,  have  been  accouuted  a  perfect  drunkard.  He 
now  resolved  to  try  the  fair  sex,  and  en^-ayed  a  female 
toaclier,  but  she  also  could  not  remain  S(»ber.  At  k'uyth  a 
man  was  introduced  to  liim  as  the  most  U'arned  person  of 
the  tundra,  and  at  first  it  seemed  as  if  he  had  at  length 
found  what  he  wanted  ;  but  after  a  few  hours  the  Samojede 
bef,Mu  to  L^'ct  tired  of  his  numerous  questions,  and  declared 
himself  ill.  Ife  threw  himself  upon  the  floor,  -wailed  and 
lamented,  and  be^-fjfed  Oastren  to  have  pity  on  him,  until  at 
leny^th  the  incensed  j)hil(do<^'ist  turned  him  out-of-doors. 
Soon  after,  he  found  him  lyiu'^  <lead  drunk  iu  the  snow, 
before  the  '  Eh^phant  and  Castle  '  of  the  i)lace. 

Thus  obliged  to  look  for  instruction  elsewhere,  Castrcn 
resolved  to  travel,  in  the  middle  of  winter,  to  the  Kussian 
villap:o  of  Pnstosersk,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Petschora,  where 
the  fair  annually  attracts  a,  inimber  of  Samojedes.  Durlii;^' 
this  sledjjfe-jonrney  of  700  versts,  he  had  to  rest  sometimes 
in  the  open  air  on  the  storm-beaten  tundra,  and  sometimes 
in  the  rick'.>ty  tent  of  the  Samojede,  or  in  the  scarcely  less 
wretched    hut    of  the  Russian    coh^nist — Avhere    the    snow 


sA\it>.ii;iu:  i.M\  i:  iti'   iimMi:. 


177 


)ii'lli'tlMf  I'  I    tlll'Mll^'ll    111  •   iTi'vii-"s  (if  till'   Willi.    wll'Ti-   I  111"   ll.lini' 

of  ill"  li.;-lil  tiicki'i-cil  ill  til'  wiml.  ;i!i.|   :i  (jiick  rlii,il<  i.j"  v...!!'- 

slviii  ;in'>!'.l('il  (III"  oulv  [>\'>\  '.'tiMii  ii.'-iiii^t  llii'  i>iriTiii:^''  cmM  i.|' 
t!i"  All-tic  wiiitcf. 

Fur    this   in'diioiis   ♦oiii-,   t\vi>  sIciIm-i-s,  witli   lom*  n'iinli'rr 

;iM  1 'lli'il  til  Ciicll,  Wt'fc  ciilldiivcd  -  tlic  tr;l\rllcl''s  >li'(|<^'(',  wliit  li 

\v:i>  cnvi Ti'il,  ln'iiiLj*  iiitiidii'd  to  mi  iincdvt'n'ij  oiif  (iccujiit'il  l»y 
tli.'  u'lii'lt'.  'J'lit'  K'liiiiii  'riiiidni  sti'i'lclM'tj  (III  lM'|i»rt'  tln-iii,  as 
tjii'v  tli'W  iiloiiL,''-  iiliiidst  as  iiaKi'd  as  tin'  M'a,  of  wliicli  tliry 
siw  till'  inari;iii  in  llif  cast  ;  aial  liinl  iml  tlif  wind  Ih'It  and 
tliiTi'  driven  away  tlif  snow  wliicdi  llcavon  in  its  nirrcv  strews 
ii\i'r  this  i^Iooniy  land,  they  niiiiht  have  liefii  in  dnuht  on 
wliirli  I'li'meiit  llicy  were  IravflliiiL;'.  Daily,  from  tiiin'  lo 
liiiii'.  soiiic  dwarf"  lirs  inadi'  their  ai»iicarantr,  or  clunii'S  of 
low  willows,  which  i^'cncrally  denote  the  |ircsen(e  of  sonic 
littK'  hroolc  slowly  windin;^'  Ihronuh  the  Mat  linidra. 

The  vilhine  of  \ess,  on  the  north  const,  was  the  (ii'st, 
li;iliin^'-i>laee,  a)id  here  (*asln'n  llaltcre<l  himsi'If  he  Imd  at 
l.'iiuth  fonnd  what  liis  heart  desired,  in  the  person  of  ;i 
Saiiiujrdc  teacher  who  knew  liiisslan.  and  was  gifted  with  a 
(.•Icarcr  head  than  is  nsuiilly  ]iosscssed  hy  his  race. 

•  The  man  was  conscions  of  his  superiority,  and  while  actiii;;' 
;is  a  ]irofoss(»r  l(»(dced  down  with  contempt  njx'n  his  weaker 
liriihivn.  Once,  some  other  Samoj'edcs  vciitni'inL;"  to  currecL 
Hiie  of  his  transhiti(nis,  he  coniniaiah'd  them  to  ho  silent, 
tilling-  them  they  were  not  learned.  F  tried  Ity  all  possiMo 
lai  ai:s  to  seenre  the  services  of  this  Saniojeth'  phenomenon. 
1  spoke  kindly  with  him,  I  jtaid  him  well,  ^avo  him  every 
iliiy  his  aliowaneo  of  brandy,  and  never  once  forhad  him  to 
uv!  ilrnnk  when  ho  felt  inclined  to  do  so.  \'ct,  in  spite  of 
:il!  my  cndeavonrs  to  pleas*%  he  fell  unhai>py,  and  si|L;hed  for 
til"  liberty  of  the  tnndra.  "  Tlion  art  Kind,  and  I  love  thee." 
>;iid  ho  one  day  to  me,  "  Imt  I  cainiot  endure  conlinencnl. 
Ill'  Ihcreforo  inereifnl,  and  _u;ive  me  my  fi-eedom.*' 

*  [  now  increased  his  daily  pay  and  his  rations  of  brandy, 
>i'iit  fur  his  wife  and  child,  treated  his  wif«'  also  with 
lirandy,  and  did  all  I  conld  to  dispel  the  melancholy  of  tin* 
>^aniojede.  By  these  means  I  induced  him  to  remain  a  few 
'^'^'■y^  lonj:;'cr  with  nio. 

"  While  I  was  constantly  ocenpyin;,'  him,  the  wife  was  busy 

N 


178 


Tllli   I'OLAU    WOULD. 


.sewing"  SanKuJtMlc  (licsses,  aiul  suiiu'tiiiK'S  'assisted  licr  1ms- 
Liuid  in  liis  translatioMs.  I  often  li(?ar(l  bcr  sig-hing- dooplv. 
and  having-  asked  lor  llie  iviison,  slie  burst  into  ti'ars,  iiii<l 
answered  tliat  slie  grieved  for  lier  Imsband,  who  was  tlnis 
iiM]»risoned  in  a  room.  "  Tliy  husband,"  was  iny  reply,  "is 
not  worse  olf  than  thyself.  Tell  nie,  Avhat  do  you  think  of 
your  own  position  9  "  "  I  do  not  think  of  myself — I  am  sor- 
rowful for  my  husband,"  was  her  ingenuous  reply.  At 
length  both  the  Imsband  and  the  wife  begged  me  so  earnestly 
to  set  them  at  liberty,  that  I  allowed  them  to  depart.' 

On  the  way  from  rjoscha  to  Pustosersk,  after  Castreu  had 
once  more  vainly  endeavoured  to  discover  that  rxni  aris,  a 
SamojiHle  teacher,  he  became  thoroughly  acquainted  Avilh 
the  January  snowstorms  of  th(^  tundra:  'The  wind  arosi' 
al)out  noon,  and  blew  so  violtMitly,  that  we  could  not  see  the 
reindeer  Ijefore  our  sledges.  The  roof  of  my  vehich',  wldeh  al 
iirst  had  afforded  me  some  protection,  was  soon  carried  away 
by  the  gale.  Anxious  abtmt  my  fate,  I  questioned  my  guides, 
whenever  they  stopped  to  brush  off  the  snow  which  had  aeeii- 
nmhited  upon  me,  and  received  the  invariable  answer,  "We 
do  not  know  where  we  are,  and  see  nothing."  A\"e  proceedcil 
step  by  step,  now  following  one  direction,  now  another,  until 
at  length  we  reached  a  river  well  known  to  the  guides.  Tlic 
leader  of  the  iirst  sledge  hurried  his  reindeer  down  the  pre- 
cipitous bank,  and  drove  away  upon  tlu;  ice  to  seek  a  more 
convenient  descent ;  but  as  he  did  not  return,  the  other  guide 
likewise  left  me  to  look  after  his  companion,  and  thus  1  wa> 
kept  waiting  for  several  hours  on  the  tundra,  without  know- 
ing v.here  my  guides  had  gone  to. 

'At  Iirst  I  did  not  even  know  that  they  had  left  me,  and 
when  L  became  aware  of  the  fact,  I  thought  that  they  li;iil 
abandoned  me  to  my  fate.  T  will  not  attempt  to  doscrilic 
my  sensations  ;  but  my  bodily  condition  was  such,  that  w.icn 
the  cold  increased  witji  the  ai)i)roacli  of  night,  I  Avas  sei/ol 


1^.11, 


w 


ith  a  vit)lent  fever.  I  thought  mvlast  hour  was  come,  and 
[>re[>ared  for  my  jiaa'ney  to  another  Avorld.' 

The  reap[)earance  of  the  guides  relieved  Castreu  of  liis 
anxiety,  and  when  the  little  party  reaehed  some  8amojedi' 
huts,  the  eldest  of  the  guides  knelt  down  at  the  side  of  our 
traveller's  sledge,  and  expressed  his  joy  in  a  prayer  to  (_Jod; 


A    .^iXOWSTOHM    OS    TIIK   TUXDIfA. 


17!) 


I'S,  iUld 
Ls  thus 
ly,  -  is 
liiiik  ol 
;iui  sor- 
ly.  At 
iriiestly 

:vru  liiitl 

:ecl  -Nviili 
id    11  rose 
t  see  til'' 
which  at 
iccl  iiway 
ly  o-nidos, 
uid  aeou- 
^•er,  "Wo 
)rocee(lcil 
lev,  until 
's.     The 
the  pre- 
c  ;i  mow 
u'V  o'uidi' 
us   I  ^va^ 
ut  kuow- 

lue.  aiul 
they  had 

deseril"' 
"luit  AV.lOll 
kis  sei/e'l 
louie,  ami 

leu  of  his 

f^janiojedi' 

k'  of  our 

to  Cio<l; 


l),.nn-iiio'('jistreii  to  join  him  iu  his  thanksgivings, '  tor  He.  and 
hot  I,  has  this  ni;^'ht  saved  thee.' 

The  next  nioniini^',  as  the  weather  seemed  to  improve,  an<l 
tlie  road  (aloni;-  the  liidii;'a  river)  to  the  next  Itussian  set- 
tlement was  easy  to  find,  Castren  resolved  to  i)ursue  his 
jduniey.  '  But  the  storm  onee  more  arose,  and  heeame 
so  dreadfully  violent  that  I  could  neither  l.)reathe.  nor  keep 
my  eyes  o})en  ati'ainst  the'  wind.  The  roariu^-  of  the  ^alo 
stupefied  my  senses.  The  moist  snow  wetted  me  durino' 
the  day.  and  the  ni;^-ht  converted  it  into  iee.  Half  frozen,  I 
arrived  aftt-r  miduiLi-ht  at  the  settlement.  The  fati^-ues 
of  the  journey  had  been  such  that  [  could  scarcely  stand;  I 
iiad  almost  Icjst  my  consciousiu'ss,  and  my  si^ht  had  suffered 
so  much  from  the  wind,  that  I  repeatedly  ran  with  my  fore- 
head ai^-aiust  tlie  walk  The  roaring'  of  the  storm  continually 
rooimded  iu  mv  ears  for  manv  hours  after.' 

A  few  days  later,  Castren  arrived  at  Pustosersk,  inidouht- 
eiUy  one  of  the  dreariest  places  in  the  world.  AVith  scarcely 
a  ti-ace  of  arboreal  veuvtation,  the  eve,  durin<>-  the  u'reater 
jiart  of  the  year,  rests  on  an  iutermiiuible  Maste  of  snow, 
wheie  the  Cold  winds  are  almost  perpetually  raij'in^'.  Tim 
storms  are  so  viohmt  as  not  sekk>m  to  carry  away  the  I'oofs 
ef  the  huts,  and  to  prevent  the  wretched  inhabitants  from 
tV'tcliiiii;-  water  and  fuck  In  this  Xorthern  Eden  our  inde- 
fiitin'ahle  ethnolog'ist  tarried  several  months,  as  it  afforded 
liiiii  an  excellent  opportunity  l\»r  C(.>ntiuuino-  his  stiidies  of 
the  Iano-ua<;'e,  nuinners,  and  reli^-ion  of  the  Sanutjedes,  who 
coiue  to  the  fair  of  Pust<xsersk  during"  the  winter,  to  barter 
their  reindeer-skins  for  Hour  and  other  commodities,  und  at 
tlie  same  time  to  indulge  in  their  favourite  beverage — brandy. 
At  liMigth  the  iSamojedes  retired,  the  busy  season  of  the 
plare  was  evidently  at  an  end,  and  C*astrt'n,  having  no  further 
iudiKH'ment  to  renuiin  at  Pustosersk,  left  it  for  the  village  of 
I  stsylmsk,  situated  ]')0  versts  higher  u[>  the  Petschora, 
wh-Te  he  hoped  still  to  find  some  straggling*  Saniojedes. 
The  road  to  Ustsylmsk  leads  through  so  desolate  a  region, 
that,  according  to  tlu;  priests  of  the  neighbourhood,  it  can- 
not have  been  originally  created  by  God  with  the  rest  of  the 
v.orld,  bnt  nnisi  have  been  formed  after  the  deluge.  Near 
I  stsylmsk  (Oo*^  oO'  N.  hit.)  the  country  im}>roves,  as  most  of 

N  -2 


ISO 


TllH    i'Ol.AU    WOHl.D. 


tho  nortliorn  troos  <,n'ow  about  tlio  ])laoo  ;  Init,  imfortiinatoly, 
a  similar  praise  eanuot  bo  awarded  to  its  iuliabitants,  wlioiii 
Ciisti'(Mi  iuuixl  to  bo  the  iiiost  brutal  ami  ob.stiuate  Raskol- 
iiiks  (<»r  seelarians)  ho  had  ever  seen.  "Without  in  the  least 
carinu'  for  the  Ten  Connnandnieuts,  an<l  indnl^-iuy  in  everv 
vice,  these  absurd  fanatics  fancied  themselves  better  than 
the  rest  of  mankind,  because  they  made  the  si^'u  of  tht; 
cross  with  the  thund>  and  the  two  last  iinu'ers,  and  stood  for 
hours  to!4('ther  before  an  iniaL;"e  in  stupid  conti.'mplation. 
Our  homeless  traveller  sotni  became  the  object  of  their 
persecutions;  they  called  him  'wizard,'  'a  poisoner  of 
rivers  and  wells,'  and  insulted  him  during*  his  walks.  At 
len^jth  tluw  even  attempted  to  take  his  lift',  so  that  ln' 
thou^•llt  ln'st  to  retreat  to  Ishemsk,  on  the  Ishma.  a  hvnidrcd 
versts  farther  to  the  south.  But,  mifortunately,  his  l)a<l 
re})ut:itioi;  ha<l  preceded  him,  and  altliouj^'h  tlie  Isprawuik 
(or  parish  otiicial)  and  his  wife  warmly  took  his  part,  tin' 
pectple  eontinued  to  reg'ard  him  Avith  suspicion. 

Towards  the  end  of  June,  Castren  ascended  the  Petsclmia 
and  its  chief  tributary,  tiie  Uusa,  as  far  asthe  viilag-e  of  Kolwii. 
Avhcre  he  spent  tlie  renuiinder  of  the  summer,  <l('cply  bnricil 
as  usual,  in  .Samojede  studies.  Beyond  Kolwa.  which  he  !<  It 
on  Se[»tember  Id  for  Obdorsk,  there  is  not  a  sinu'le  seitl'- 
nieiii  ;il(>n;4'  th<>  I'usa  and  its  tributaries. 

As  he  ascended  the  I'iver,  the  nu'adows  on  its  low  l)anks 
ap[>e;ired  coloured  with  the  n'l'ey  tints  of  autumn.  Sonic- 
times  a  wild  animal  started  from  its  lair,  but  no  vestit:'''  ef 
man  was  to  l.)e  seen.  C'onntless  tlocks  of  wiM  dncLs  ami 
uci'se  passed  over  the  traveller's  head,  on  tluir  wav  sontli- 
wards. 

After  many  a  tedious  delay,  caused  l>y  stoi'uis  and  contnivv 
A\  inds.  ( 'astn''!)  rea(die(l  (on  Scjiteniber  27)  a  wret(died  lint, 
about  I'orty  vei'sts  from  the  Ural,  where  he  was  olili|4'ed  |c 
wait  a  whtdi'  month,  with  fourteen  other  ])ersons,  until  th'' 
snow-track  over  the  mountains  became  practicable  for  slcd'jcs. 

The  t'>tal  wiint  of  every  comfort,  the  bad  com[)any,  the  pci'- 
petnal  rain,  and  the  dreary  as]>ect  of  the  ctauitry,  made  lii> 
prolon;4"ed  stay  in  this  miserable  tiuiement  alnmst  unbearable. 
At  leuLith.  on  October  'i-^,  he  was  able  to  depart,  and  "ii 
November  -■),  he  saw  the  Ural  Mountains  raisiim-  their  snew- 


TIIH    HANKS    or    Till-:    Olil. 


isl 


cnjipod  snininits  1o  the  slcios.  '  Tlio  wouiluu'  is  mild,'  .sjiid  liis 
S;iiiit)j(Ml(Mlrivcr,  'and  tlutii  art  fori miato, but  the  Ural  can  Ix; 
vci-y  dittV'rt'iit.'  He  thou  descril:)t'd  the  dreadful  storms  that 
iMui'  over  th(>  houudary-ehalu  which  se[)arates  Kiu'ope  from 
Asia,  aud  Imw  they  luvcipitate  stones  and  roi-ks  tVom  the 
iiiniuitain-tops. 

Tliis  tiuie  the  dreiidcd  pass  was  erossod  iu  safety,  aud  ou 
November  U,  Isj:*,  Castron  arrived  at  Obdor^k,  on  the  ()bi, 
cxluiusted  iu  strru^-th  and  sluittered  iu  hcaltb,  but  yi'i  de- 
liLilited  to  iiud  himself  iu  Asia,  the  laud  of  Jiis  early  dreams. 
(»liilor>k — the  uiost  u<.)rtherly  eolouy  iu  Westirn  Siberia, 
;iiid,  as  univ  easilv  be  iniau'intMl,  utterly  dellcieut  iu  all  that 
(Mil  b,'  iuterestiun*  to  au  ordinary  traveller — was  as  much  as 
;i  inivei'sity  to  the  zealous  stndeut,  for  several  thonsauds  of 
Sim; ijcdt's  and  Ostjaks  ei,)Ug're«4'ate  to  its  fiir  from  hundreds 
u\'  vi'i'sts  ai'ouiid. 

No  better  place  could  possibly  be  fouud  for  tlu' prosecution 
el'  liis  researches;  lint  the  (h'phn'able  coudillnu  of  his  health 
dill  net  allow  him  to  remain  as  loujj;  as  be  would  have  de- 
sii'id  at  this  fouutain-head  of  knowledLis'.  He  was  thns 
eliliLi'ed  to  leave  t'<  >r  Tobolsk,  ami  to  return,  iu  March  18  It, 
liy  the  slioi'test  road  to  Finland. 

hi  the  tollowiu'.;'  snmmer  (Islo'i.  we  aL^'.iin  liiid  hlin  on  the 
Ii;iii1\'s  ol'  the  Irtvsch  aud  the  Olii.  ])bui^'ed  in  (  Jstjiik'  studies 
with  rt'uewed  eneru'v  aud  enthusiasm.  Alter  h:ivinLi'  so- 
journed tor  several  weeks  at  Toropkowa,  a  small  island  at 
tlie  c(»!i(hieuce  of  these  two  mi^^'hty  streams,  he  asceiideil  the 
Olii  in  July  as  far  as  Sui'p'ut,  where  he  arrived  in  the  be- 
L^iiiniiiM-  of  Au^'ust. 

In  c(»use(juence  of  the  overliowin^'  of  its  \v;iters.  the  river 
liid  s]»reiid  into  a  boundless  lake,  whose  nionoteny  was  only 
r  'lieved,  from  time  to  tinu.',  by  some  small  wooded  island  or 
s'liie  inundated  villa^'e.  The  risint^-  of  the  stream  had 
sjii'ead  miserv  fir  aud  wide,  for  manv  Ostiak  tiimilii's  bad 
h  rii  oblio-cd  to  abandon  their  huts,  and  to  seek  a  refiiu'e  in 
till'  tbri'sts.  Those  who  had  horses  and  cows  bad  tin'  Lii'eatc'st 
'lillicnlty  to  keep  them  alive  ;  aud  as  all  the  nn-adows  were 
i!;.iler  water,  aud  the  autuuui,  with  its  ni;^ht -frosts,  was 
:ilie;nly  approachin<^-,  there  was  scarcely  any  hope  of  uuikiug' 
li;i\  for  the  winter. 


182 


TIIK    roLAll    WOULD. 


As  Caslivii  [H'oceecled  on  his  jonnicy,  llu;  low  baulks  cf 
tlio  rivor  rose  uljovo  tlio  waters,  and  a]»i)oar('cl  in  all  tlicir 
wild  and  o](»(»niy  desolation.  The  uinul)er  of  inliabitanis 
al<tnf^  the  Obi  is  ntterly  inyij^'iiilieant  when  compared  Avilli 
the  wide  extent  of  the  coniitry;  and  as  huntin}^'  and  fishiiiLi,' 
are  their  ehicf  oceni)ations,  n<»thin<j;'  is  done  to  snbdno  tlie 
wilderness.  The  weary  eye  sees  but  a  dnll  snccession  of 
moors,  willow-bnshes,  dry  heaths,  and  firs  on  the  hij^her 
•grounds.  Near  every  ilonrishing,"  tree  stands  another,  bearing- 
the  marlvs  of  decay.  The  yonnj^  jjfrass  is  hemmed  in  its 
<iTowth  by  that  of  the  previons  year,  which  even  in  July 
^•jves  the  meadow  a  dull  asli-<4Tey  colour.  Cranes,  wild 
<lucks,  and  ^eese  are  almost  the  only  livinf^  creatures  to  be 
seen.  Fi'om  Siljarshi  to  Snrj^'ut,  a  distance  of  200  versts. 
there  are  but  three  Kussian  villa|>"es ;  and  the  Ostjaks,  who 
form  the  main  part  of  the  population,  ♦^'•enerally  live  aloni; 
the  tributary  rivers,  or  erect  their  summer  huts  on  tlic 
smaller  arms  of  the  Obi,  where  they  can  make  a  better  use 
of  Iheir  very  imperfect  fishinj,^  implenients  than  on  tlic 
[•rincipal  stream. 

Snr<4-ut,  once  a  fortress,  and  the  chief  town  of  the  Cossack 
conquerors  of  8il)eria,  is  now  reduced  to  a>  few  miseral>!i' 
huts,  scattered  amono-  the  ruins  f»f  rejtcated  con  Hay-rat  ions. 

Here  Castren  remained  till  September  21,  occupied  witli 
th(>  studv  of  the  various  dialects  of  the  nei<ihbourin<>'  Osiiak 
tribes,  and  then  ascended  the  Obi  as  far  as  IS^arym,  a  distanci> 
of  SOO  versts.  Most  of  the  fishermen  had  already  retired 
from  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  a  deathlike  stillness,  rarelv 
interrupted  by  an  Ostjak  boat  rapidly  shooting-  throuo-li  flic 
stream,  reii;-iied  over  its  waters. 

Fortunately  the  Aveather  was  fine,  at  least  dm-iuo-  Hie  first 
days  of  the  journey ;  and  the  o-reen  river-baidvs,  the  birds 
sin;4'in<>'  in  the  trees,  and  the  suidieams  {^dancinn"  <'>ver  tlic 
wide  mirror  of  the  Obi,  somewhat  enlivened  the  monotoiiv  "t 
the  scene. 

After  havinjjf  enjoyed  at  Narym  a  remnrhihhi  wihl  8iberi;iii 
winter,  as  )u>  rmirs  /mil  hfrn  /'rozcii  to  (hatli^  and  havinu' 
increased  his  knowledo-e  of  the  Ostjak  dialects,  C'astr.'ii 
]m>ceeded  in  Ihe  fcdlowino-  sju-ina-,  by  way  of  Tomsk,  te 
Krasnojarsk,  on  tla^  Jenisei,  where  he  arrived  in  A))ri1  18  1<!. 


I 


u X i:\  1  •  \:c\' !•: i >  i •  i ; 1 1: x i ) 1. 1 x i:ss 


1  ii-.i 


:iii(l    was   wolo(»int'tl    in    a    niosf    n^Tecablt^    aiitl    niicxpoftcd 
inaniitT.      Ft    will   l)t>  lUMiicinbcrrd   lliat    duriiij^'   liis   stay   at 
Isheiiisk,  in  the  tundra  of  the   Saniojcdos,  he  found  warni- 
hi'arted  friends  and  [H'oteetors  aj^'ainst  the  insane  l)i<^-oirv  of 
the  Raskoluiks  in  the  Isprawruk  and  his  youn;^-  and  aniiahle 
wife.     Of  the  latter,  it  nii«4'ht  truly  be  said  that  she  was  like 
a  flower  born  to  bhish  unseen  in  the  desert.     l!eniarkably 
eloquent,  she  was  no  less  talented  in  expressinj^'  her  thoughts 
Ity  writin<^';  and  yet  she  was  only  the  dauf^hter  of  a  serf  who 
liad  been  exiled  to  Krasnojarsk,  and  had  spent  a  ^-reat  i)art 
of  a   small  property,  aequired   by  industry  and  economy,  in 
the   education    of   his   g-ifted    daughter.     The   Isprawnik,   a 
yenng  Pole  of  insinuating  manners,  having  gained  her  affec- 
tions, she  had  accompanied  him  to  Ishemsk  as  his  wiff. 

From  what  Castren  had  told  her  thre(>  years  since  about 
his  future  plans,  she  knew  that  he  would  probably  arrive 
aliout  this  tinu'  at  Krasn(»jarsk,  and  had  writti-n  a  letter, 
wliieh  reached  its  destination  oidy  a  few  hours  before  him. 
It  wa-j  to  her  father,  earnestly  begging  him  to  [n\\  evt'ry 
attention  to  the  homeless  stranger.  The  feelings  of  (^istren 
iiKiy  easily  be  imagined  Avhen  the  old  man  knocked  at  his 
(Inor,  and  brouirht  him  these  friendlv  greet ini>s  I'loni  a  dis- 
t;nice  of  (),0()(»  versts.-^ 

But  his  stay  at  Krasnojarsk  was  not  of  long  duration,  for 
lie  was  impatient  to  proceed  northwards,  for  the  purpose  of 
lii'coming    acquainted  with    tlu'    tribes    dwelling    along  the 
•Iciiisei,    after   having    studied    their    brethren   f)f   the  Obi. 
I'rom  June  till  the  end  of  July,  his  literary  pursuits  detained 
him    at  Turuchansk,  wlun'e,  in    the   vicinity   of    the   Arctic 
t'ircle,  he  had  much  to  suffer  from  the  heat   and  llie  nios- 
iiuitoes.     Tn  the  beginning  of  August,  the  signs  <if  approiich- 
iiig  winter  made  their  appearance,  the  cold  north-wind  swept 
ii'.vay  the  leaves  from  the  trees,  the  fishermen  retired  to  tlie 
ueiids,  and  the  ducks  and  geese  prepare<l  to  migrate  to  the 
south.     And  now  Oastren   also  took  leave  of  Turuchansk — 
nut  however,  like  the  birds,  for  a  more  sunny  region,  but  to 
hiiry  himself  still  deeper  in  the  northern  wilds  of  the  Jenisei. 
l!el(i\v  Turuchansk,  the  river  begins  to  flow  so  languidly,  that 


'*  Tlif  vcr^t  is  Mli'iut  tlirro-fiftlis  of  a  niil< 


1S4 


Till-:    I'OLAU    WOKI.I). 


when  flic  wind  Is  contrary,  the  bo.ti  iimst  be  tlriiL,'L;v<l  iil<>ii<4 
by  tl'>i;'s,  and  advain'cs  no  more  tliaii  from  five  to  ten  vt'ist^ 
(luring-  a-  wliolc  day.  Thus  tlie  travdlfr  lias  full  tiiuf  to 
notice  the  \vill(»\vs  on  the  Iclt  banlc,  and  the  firs  on  Ihe  ri^hl: 
fhe  ice-ldocks,  surviviiif^'  memorials  of  the  last  wintci',  whit  li 
ihe  spring*  iiumdations  have  left  hero  and  there  on  the  bank-; 
of  the  vast  stream  ;  and  the  countless  troops  of  wild  birds  that 
fly  with  htud  clamour  over  his  head. 

Abdut  ol)-"*  vcrsts  below  Tnrucliansk  is  situated  Placliina, 
the  fishing-station  of  a  small  tribe  of  ^amojcdcs,  anmn^- 
whom  (Aistrcn  tarried  three  weel<s.  lie  had  taken  }i(»ssessio!i 
of  th(>  liisf  of  the  three  huts  of  which  the  ]>lace  consisted, 
but  (>ven  this  would  have  been  jierl'ectly  iuiolernble  to  any 
one  but  our  zealous  etlnio]o<4'is!.  Into  his  stmly  tln'  da_\ - 
lij^'ht  jx'aelrated  so  s[)arin;4'Iy  lhv<>u;4h  a  small  hole  in  the 
wall,  that  lie  was  ofien  oblii^'eil  to  write  by  the  liyht  of  a 
resinous  torch  in  the  middle  of  (he  day. 

The  flame  flickerinti'  in  the  wind,  which  blew  through  a 
thousand    crevicts,  affected    his  eves   no   less  si'Verelv   than 


tl 


le  smoK" 


wliicli    at    the    sanu'    time    rem 


lered 


resi> 


irati 


nil 


diflicult.  Altliou;L:'h  the  roof  luul  bi.'eu  rt,'j)aired,  yet  duiinL:' 
evtn*y  stronj^"  rain — and  it  rained  almost  ]»er]ietually — he  was 
o])lio'(j(l  to  ])ack  up  his  papers,  and  to  protect  himself  fV<ia 
the  wet  as  if  he  had  been  in  the  open  air.  From  this 
delit^'htfid  residence  Oastren,  still  pursuing'  his  study  of  tlie 
Samojede  <lialects,  procei'(led  down  the  I'iver  to  Dudiidca.  and 
finally,  in  Xovi'iubcr.  to  Tolstoi  ^^'oss,  whose  pleasant  climate 
nniy  be  jnd^'ed  of  l»y  the  fact  tinit  it  is  situated  in  tl," 
latituili'  of  71".  This  last  voya^'owas  performtMl  in  a  •  liaLk" 
or  cldse  fsled<4'e,  covei'ed  with  reinih'cr-skins.    The  teiliiaisiu  .-> 


ot    henii;'  convevtM 


1  lil 


ce  a   cori»S(^  in  a 


V 


dark 


d 


c  and  narrow  iicx. 


induced  him  to  exchan^-e  the  '  balok  '  for  an  open  sled^'e:  bi;! 
'"le  iVee/ino'  of  his  feet,  of  his  fiu'^'ers,  and  of  part  <»f  his  face, 
soon  causetl  him  to  repent  of  his  temerity.  As  somi  as  tliis 
•  cident  was  iliseovered  at  the  next  station,  C'astren  t'ltpt 
hack  a;4ain  iido  his  prison,  and  was  heartily  >j;hu\  when,  aft'  i' 
a   nine-<lavs'   conlinement,   he   at  lenu'th   arrive<l   at   Tobii  i 


X 


O:- 


A\ 


ihiidi    he   foiuid    to   consist    of   four  Avretched  hui- 


ii, 


Here  a^•ain  he  spent  several  weeks  studvini''  by  torchli^l 
for  the  sun    had    nni-le  his  last    appearance    in    Xovemlur 


FOKTl'NATi:    KKSCIK    FROM    I'KRII- 


1S5 


|l(illS11i'.-S 


iiinl  tilt'  diiy  was  rciluci'd  to  n  faint  ^liniiiit'viuu-  a<  noon.  \\\ 
January  wc  find  him  on  liis  rclurn-voyap'  to  Turucliaiisk,  a 
)ilai't'  wliicli,  tliou^'li  not  vciT  cliarniin^'  in  itsclt",  a[>[t<'ai't>(l 
ili'liuf'itfnl  to  C*astivu  after  a  six-niontlis'  ri'siduiic*'  in  tlio 
tiiii(li"as  beyond  the  Arctic  t'irclo. 

Tnrueliansk  can  boast  at  least  of  seeing'  some  da^liL^■ht  at 


)f  the 


d  tl 


d 


ith 


all  seasons  oi  ilie  year,  an»l  this  may  he  enjoyeu  even  within- 
doors, lor  Tiirucliansk  possesses  ii(»  less  than  i'oiir  holies 
witli  i^'lass  windows.  Lnnn'lnj^  to  ivaeh  tliis  comparatively 
sunny  place,  (.'astr»'n,  a;4'ainst  his  usual  custom,  resolved  to 
travel  day  and  uin'ht  without  sto]»i)inL;-,  l»ul  his  iiii[»atieiice 
wfllnii4'h  ]»roved  fatal  to  him.  ]!is  Saniojedc  o'nide  had  not 
]/(  iccivcd  in  the  dark  that  the  waters  of  the  Jcni-i'i,  (,V('r 
wliirli  they  were  travcjlinu',  had  oo/rd  tliroUL;']!  fissures  in  the 
iir.  iind  inundati'd  llic  siiilaiM'  of  tlie  river  far  and  wiile. 
Tliii.s  he  drove  into  tlie  water,  whii-h  of  courso  \vas  rapidly 
^■M;|^•t■;llin^■ :  the  reiiidt'iU"  Were  uuabie  to  drau'  I  lie  sIciIl;'*'  ba(;k' 
ii_;';iiii  upon  the  laud,  and  Castrt'ii  sturk  fast  on  tlic  river, 
will)  tlie  a^'iveable  prospect  of  lieiiiLi'  fro/.eii  to  death.  l''rom 
tliis  imminent  dan^•el■  lie  was  rescued  by  a  wonderful  cir- 
iMiiustauce.  Tictters  havini^' ari'ivi'tl  from  the  Ini[ii'rial  Aca- 
(Iniy  of  St.  PelersbiirL;".  a  courier  had  Itet  n  des[iatehed  from 
Turuchaiisk  to  convey  tiiem  to  C'asiiv'n.  Tliis  coui'ier  for- 
1  uuately  roachi'd  him  Avhile  he  was  in  this  iierilous  situation, 
lh'l|ied  him  on  laiul,  and  conducted  him  to  a  Samojeiie  hut, 
wiiei'i'  he  vras  able  to  warm  his  stitfened  limbs. 

After  such  a  journey,  we  caiuiot  wonder  tiiat.  on  arriving* 
ill  I'liruchansk.  he  was  so  tormented  \vitli  rheumatism  and 
1e:.tli;udie  as  to  be  oldi^'ed  to  rest  there  si'\er;il  days.  \\'itli 
Sere  joints  and  an  acliin<j;"  body,  he  slowly  [iroeeedcd  to 
.I'iiiseisk.  where  he  arrived  on  AjU'il  :!,  b'~!|7.  in  a  wretched 
state  ot'  health,  which  howe\  ei'  lia«l  not  iiiterrupted  his  ( )st  jalc 
studies  on  the  way.  I  r.ii'idly  Li'lauce  over  his  >iibse(jiieiit 
ti'av'ds.  as  they  are  but  a  rejtetition  of  the  same  [irivalions 
iiiid  the  same  hardshiiis.  ;ill  (dieerfully  sustained  i'i>v  the  h.ivo 
ef  knowled^•e.  Havinn'  somewhat  recruited  his  strength  at 
.leiiiseisk.  lie  crossed  the  Sajan  mountains  to  ^isit  some 
Saniojedes  beyond  the  Russian  frontier  -  a  jiuiriiey  which, 
h'sides  the  usual  fatiu'ues,  iiivtdved  the  a<lditional  risk  (»f 
hi'iiio'  arresti'd  as  a  spy  by  the  Chinese  authorities—  and  the 


1«G 


TlIK    I'OLAU  WOKF.I). 


year  after  lie  visited  Transbaikalia,  \o  make  iii(|iiiries  ainonj^- 
the  Btiriat  priests  about  tlu^  ancient  history  of  Liberia. 

Havinfj  thus  accomplished  his  task,  aud  thorou^'hlj'  in- 
vesti«i-ated  the  wild  nations  of  the  Finnish  race,  from  the 
confines  (A'  the  Arctic  Sea  to  the  Altai — a  task  Avhieh  cost 
liini  his  health,  and  the  best  part  of  his  enerf;"ies  -he  longed 
to  breathe  the  air  of  Lis  native  country.  But  neither  the 
pleasures  of  home,  nor  a  professorship  at  the  University  oi" 
Helsiu'i^foi's,  richly  earned  by  almost  superhuman  exertions, 
were  able  to  arrest  the  <:irerms  of  disease,  which  journeys  such 
as  these  could  scarcely  fail  to  plant  even  in  his  (trifjinally 
robust  cc»nstitution.  After  lingerinjjf  some  years,  he  died 
in  1855,  universally  lamented  by  his  countrymen,  who  justly 
mourned  his  early  death  as  a  national  loss. 


The  Soushk. 


I'    I 


*••■  *!^- 


m 


Sarr.ocdC3  and  thcr  D'-vcl'mt^:-;. 


CHAPTER   XIV. 


■i^: 


THE    SAMOJEDES. 

riiiir  l!;ii'l',irism-  N'liiii.  ur  Jililieniiili.uTtj.' — Sli:iniauisin  — Siiniojodo  Idols  Sja- 
c!;ii  ll;ilic  'riu'  'I'.'iclrlitsius,  or  Sjiirits — 'I'lip  Tiiililics,  or  Sorcfna's  'riu>ir 
|ii.-<  Tlicir  liivi)i'':itiiiiis — Thrir  coujiiviiiff  Tricks — IJcvoroiK't' piiiil  to  llio  I). 'ml 
—  A  Sainoj.cli^  ()Mth — Appearaiico  of  tlic  Samojedos — Tlnir  Dnss— A  Saiiiojidi- 
IMli' — Cliaracttr  of  the  Samojodcs— Tlieir  decroasiiiiX  Nuint.icrs — Traditions  of 
aiii'iciit  lliToos. 

rpiTE  8iiriioio(los,  the  noi<^'libour.s  of  the  Liiphindeis,  arc  still 
I  t'uvthor  roiinn't'd  from  eiviHscd  .society,  imd  |>liiiif>-ed  in 
«'V*'ii  deeper  barbiirism.  The  wildest  tundras  and  woods  of 
Xnvtliern  Russia  aud  Western  Siberia  are  the  liouio  of  the 
SiDiiojede.  With  his  reindeer  herds  lie  ■wanders  over  tht^ 
tiaketl  wastes,  from  the  eastern  coast  of  the  ^\"llite  Sea  to 
the  banks  of  the  Chatano-a,  or  hunts  in  the  boundless  forests 
lu'tween  the  Obi  and  the  Jenisei.  His  intercourse  with  the 
Russians  is  confined  to  his  annual  visits  at  the  fairs  of  such 
miseralde  settlements  as  Obdorsk  and  Pustosersk,  where,  far 
from  improvinp,"  by  their  company,  lie  but  too  often  becomes 
tlio  prey  of  their  avarice,  and  learns  to  know  them  merely  as 
•  lii'ats  and  oppressors.     Protestant   missionaries  have  Icmj:^ 


18S 


Tin:    I'OLAlt    WOULD. 


r 


siiiec  br<>U|4'lit  iiisiriu-iioii  i<>  tlif  Ti:i]»liiii(lt'r's  Imt,  l>ut  tin' 
lUiijority  (if  the  lus.s  Dd'iiiiuito  Saiiiojcdt's  slill  inlliL'r(>  1<»  IIh' 
liToss  suixn-stitions  of  their  fatlicrs.  Tin  v  lu'liovc  in  ii  Sii- 
lirciiit.'  Hciii!;- — Nniii,  or  Jilibciiiiibiicrtjc — who  n'si(h's  in  lln' 
air,  ami,  like  the  Jupiter  of  okl,  semis  dowii  tlmmlei-  ami 
li;H'lilniii<^',  rain  ami  snow;  and  as  a  proof  that  soiuethini^-  of 
a  pootie  fancy  is  to  be  fciund  even  anionic'  Die  most  savaiie 
nations,  they  call  the  rainbow  '  the  hem  of  his  ^•arnieni.'  As 
this  deity,  however,  is  too  far  removed  from  them  to  leave 
them  any  hope  of  •^•ainin*^  his  favour,  they  never  think  of 
otl'erinp;'  liim  either  prayer  or  saerifiee.  Ibit,  besides  Ninu, 
there  are  a  <4'reat  many  inferior  spirits,  or  idols,  who  directly 
interfere  in  human  coneenis — eaprieions  beiuii's.  who  allow 
themselves  t<»  1h'  inthienccd  by  olfc ring's,  or  yi.dd  to  maj^'irnl 
incantations;  and  to  tln'se,  theri'f<ii'i',  the  Sann>jedi'  has  re- 
course when  lie  f.'els  the  necessity  of  invokiuL;"  the  aid  or 
averting"  the  wrath  of  a  hiii'her  I'ower. 

The  (diief  of  all  Saniojedo  id<.»ls  is  in  tin-  island  of  Way- 
li'atz—  a  cold  antl  nielancholv  Delos — where  it  was  alreadv 
found  by  ("Id  ]»arentz.  This  idol  is  a  niei'e  Idock  of  stone, 
with  its  head  taiterinu'  to  a  point.  It  has  thus  lieen 
fashioned,  not  bv  a  mortal  ai'tist,  but  bv  a  iilav  ul'  nature. 
After  this  (iri'-'inal  the  Sanioicdes  have  forme<l  inanv  idols  of 
stone  or  wood  of  various  sizes,  which  they  call  '  Sja<]u'i,'  froia 
their  pfissessin^-  a  human  physio^'nomy  {''J'l).  These  idols 
thtn'  dress  in  reindeer-skins,  and  ornament  them  with  all 
sorts  of  coloured  ra^'s.  Ihit  a  resendilance  t(»  tlu'  huni;ni 
form  is  not  the  necessary  attribute  of  a  Samojedo  idol ;  iniy 
irreo-ularly-shaped  ston*!  or  tree  may  be  thus  distint^aiisheil. 
If  the  object  is  small,  th(.^  savat4"e  cari'ies  it  everywhere  about 
with  him,  carefully  wra})ped  up;  if  too  cumbersome  to  Im' 
trans]iorted,  it  is  resi'rved  as  a,  kind  of  national  deity.  A>; 
■with  the  Ostjaks,  each  Saniojede  tribe  has  in  its  train  a 
peculiar  sledi4'e— the  Ilahen^an — in  which  the  househoM 
idols  (or  llahe)  are  placed.  One  of  these  Penates  protects 
the  rein<leer,  another  watches  over  tlu^  health  of  his  wor- 
shippers, a  third  is  the  f;-uardian  of  their  connubial  happi- 
ness, a  fourth  takes  care  to  till  their  nets  with  fish.  "When- 
ever his  services  are  required,  the  Halie  is  taken  from  his 
rejxisitory,  and  eri'cted  in  the  tiMit  or  on  the  pasture-j^roniKl, 


l.ut    llli' 

'     to    111.' 

II  ii  Su- 
's  ill  lilt' 
(lev  iiiiil 
tliiiiL;  of 
t  SilVii;ji' 
lit;  As 
lo  IcilVi' 
lliiiik  of" 
L's  Nmii, 
(lirci-tly 

lli>    illlow 
lllll^^'irill 

i'  luis  rc- 
e   a'nl  ov 

of  Wiiy- 
iilrradv 

III'     stdlll', 
us      IxM'll 

uiitur(\ 
jddls  (if 

i,"  i'lMiii 
so  idols 
Willi   all 

luiiiiaii 
(il ;  any 
;-uisli»'(l. 
'i'  al)fiit 

10  to    111' 

ity.     As 
train  a 

lliscllo'il 
prott'rts 
Hiis  \V(ir- 


hapi 
AVI 


ti- 


icn- 


rom  ins 
li«-niun(l. 


SAM  (J.)  HI  IK    NKi  lloMAMV 


is;i 


in  {ill'  wonil  or  on  tlif  ri\('r"s  lt:inl<.  His  iiioiitii  is  tlu'ii 
>mi'ai'i'd  with  oil  or  Mooil,  mikI  ii  dish  with  li>h  or  (li'sli  is  set 
lii'Tofi'  him,  ill  lln'  full  t'.\|M'c*tution  that  his  i^-ooil  otliccs  will 
amply  i't'i»ay  the  savoury  repast.  AVIicn  his  aid  is  no  lono-ci- 
iH'ccssary,  he  is  put  aside  without  any  t'nrthcr  cerciiioiiy, 
ainl  as  little  noticed  as  the  M!i(h>iinu  of  the  2sea[»olitau 
lisherman  after  the  storm  has  eeased. 

The  llahe.  or  idols,  are  very  couveuieiit  <»hjeets  of  revei'- 
e;i(e  to  the  Samoj.'de,  ;is  he  can  consult  them,  or  iisk  their 
;i-'<lstance,  without  Ijcin^- initiated  in  the  secrets  of  ma^'ic  ; 
wliile  the  'J'adehtsios,  or  invisiMe  spirits,  Avhicli  eveiywhen! 
Imver  ahout  ill  the  air,  and  are  ni(»re  inclined  to  injure  than 
to  henelit  man,  can  only  he  invoked  hy  a  Tadihe,  or  sorcerer, 
A\lio.  like  the  ('uuiiean  Sihyl,  Avorks  himself  into  a  state  of 
ci-!;i(ic  frenzy.  When  his  services  are  reipiired,  the  fii-st, 
(■;iii'  of  the  'I'adihe  is  to  invi'st  himself  with  his  ina^'ical 
iiiantle-  a  Iviiul  of  shirt  made  of  reindeer  leathei-,  imd 
lii'Uimed  with  red  cloth.  The  seams  are  covereil  in  a  ^iniiliM" 
iiiMiiiier,  and  the  shoulders  are  dt.'corated  with  epaeli'ttes  (.f 
the  same  j^'aniiy  material.  A  [>iece  of  red  cloth  veils  the 
i\es  and  face--  tor  the  Tatlihe  reipiires  no  external  or^^'ans  of 
s]'j;\i\  to  penetrate  into  the  woi-hl  ot"  s[)iiits — and  a  i>late  of 
I'l'lished  metal  shines  upon  hi-;  hreasl. 

'J'hus  aeeoutred,  the  'i'adilie  sei/es  his  inaiiical  drum, 
whose  sounds  summon  tho  spirits  to  his  Avill.  Its  form  is 
i"iiiid,  it  lias  but  one  bottom,  made  of  reimh'i'r-skin,  and  is 
more  or  less  decorated  with  lirass  rinns  and  other  oniamenls, 
arroi'diiiL;'  to  the  wcLilth  or  poverty  of  its  posses-or,  |)ul■ill^• 
the  ceremony  of  invocation,  tlie  T.idibe  is  L';eiierally  assisted 
I'V  a  disciple,  iii<>re  or  le.-s  iniiiiited  in  the  uiai^ic  ait.  Tlie\- 
I'ither  sit  (h)wn.  or  walk  about  in  a  I'iri'le.  'I'jie  chief  sorcerer 
beats  t  lie  (b'um,  ill  lirst  slowly,  then  with  iiicreasiiii^- violence, 
siiiu'in^'  at  the  same  time  a  few  words  to  a  mystic  melody. 
Tiie  disi'i[»le  immediately  falls  iii,  and  lioth  repeat  the  sanu.' 
iiioiiutoiioiis  chant. 

At  lene'th  the  sj)ivits  ai)pear,  and  the  consultation  is  siii)- 
l»<!Sed  to  betiin  ;  the  Tudibe  from  time  to  time  remainino- 
silent,  as  if  listeiiini;"  to  their  answers,  aii<l  but  ;,;'entlv 
bcatiii>>-  his  drum,  wliile  the  assistant  continues  to  siiiji-. 
Filially,  this  mute   ci.>nversation  ceases,  the    son;^    chanties 


ino 


TIIK    I'OLAK    WOKIJ). 


into  !i  wiM  li(»wllii^',  lilt'  (Iniiii  is  violently  strndc,  tlir  eye  of 
ilic  Tinlilx'  i^'iows  with  ii  stiMii'^'c  lii'c,  loniii  isMues  from  his 
li|ts — when  .suddenly  the  nproiir  eeases,  iind  the  or;iiui;ii 
sentenre  is  pronounced.  The  Tadihes  tire  etnisnlted  not 
only  lor  the  ]iiir|M»se  of  I'ecoverin;;'  a  strange  reindeer, 
or  to  preserve  the  herd  I'roin  a  e<»iitanious  disorder,  or  to 
obtain  siiceess  in  lishiiiL;';  the  Sainojede,  when  a  [)i'ey  t-i 
illness,  ser-ks  no  othei"  medical  advice;  and  the  sort  erer's 
drinn  either  scares  away  the  malevolent  s[)ii'its  that  cause 
tlio  malady,  or  summons  others  to  the  assistance  of  lu^ 
patient. 

'JMie  ollice  ot*  Tadil»e   is  ;j,'enerally  hereditary,  but  iiidivi- 
tluals  <;-il'ted  by  nature  with  excitable  nerves  and  an  ardent 
ima^iiiiition  not  seMom  desire  to  bo  initiated  in  these  sujier- 
natural  comninnications.     No  one  can  teatdi  the  candidate. 
His  morbid  fancy  is  worked  upon  l)y  solitudi',  the  conteni- 
[)latiou  of  the  i^'loomy  aspect  of  nature,  lon^*  viyils,  fasts,  the 
use  of  narcotics  and  stimulants,  until  he  becomes  persuaded 
that  he  too  has  soon  the  apparitions  Avhich  }ie  has  heard  of 
from  his  boyhood.     He   is  then  rocoivod  as  a  Tadibe  with 
many  ceremonies,  Avhich  are  held  in  the  silence  of  tlu'  ni^ht. 
and  invested  with  the  inaj^'ic  drum.     Thus  the  Tadibe  pai-1l\ 
l)elieves  in  the  visions  and  fancies  of  his  own  overheated  l»ra  in. 
Besides  doalinu'  with  the  invisible  work!,  he  does  not  neu'lect 
the  usual  arts  of  an  expert  conjurtn*,  and  knows  by  this  means 
to  increase  his  intiuence   over  his   simple-miiKhMl   country- 
men.    One  of  his  commonest  tricks  is  similar  to  that  whitli 
lias  been  practised  with  so  much  success  by  the  Ih'otluis 
Davenport,     lie  sits  down,  with  his  lunuh:!  and  feet  l)ouiid. 
on  a  reindeer-skin  stretched  out  upon  the  lioor,  and,  the  li^lil 
being'  removed,  be<4'ins  to  summon  the  ministerinry  spirits  in 
liis  aid.     Strange  unearthly  noises  now  bei^'in  to  be  heard — 
l)ears  growl,  snakes  hiss,  squirrels  rustle  about  the  hut.     At 
lono'th  the  tumult  ceases,  the  andience  anxiously  awaits  the 
end  of  the  spectacle,  Avhen  suddenly  the  Tadibe,  freed  fr(»m  his 
bonds,  steps  into  the  hut — no  one  doubting'  that  the  spirits 
have  set  him  free. 

As  barbarous  as  the  poor  wretches  Avho  submit  to  his 
guidance,  the  Tadibe  is  incai)abl(>  of  impn)ving  their  moral 
condition,  and  has  no  wish  to  do  so.     Under  various  nanus 


SAMOJKhK    S(>UCK1{KII> 


lUl 


eye  ol" 
»iu  liis 
•aciiliir 

■il     lint 

i\i(lt't'r. 
,  or  to 
iivy  i'» 
i'(  (Tcr  s 

I     CilUSt' 

ol"  lii^ 

iiiilivi- 
iinltMit 

lulitlnl*'. 
(•(.(iiti'in- 
ists,  111*' 
.TSUiult'tl 

lu'urd  of 
ibo  with 
le  iiiLi'lit. 
]>;U'tI\ 
I  lira  ill. 
iie^'lt'ft 
s  means 
oimtrv- 
t  Nvliiili 
irotlurs 

l)ollll(l. 

lu"  li-'lit 
ivits  io 
lu-anl-  ■ 
mt.  At 
aits  the 
tV<  ini  111!'' 
(>  spirit?' 


to   lii> 
tr  luonil 


— S(  liaiiiaiis  iiinoti<4'  the  'I\iiiy;iisi,  Aii<^"('k(»ks  tniion;,'  the  I']s(|iii- 
iiiiiax,  iiifdit'iiK'-iiifii  aiinMii;;  tlii'  Crccs  ami  Cliciu'wyaiis,  <S,r. 
— we  liial  similar  mao;i('iaiis  or  imiutstorH  assuiniiio;  a  si»iriliial 
iiiitatorshii>  over  all  tlu'  Aroti<i  nations  of  tlic  UM  ami  tin* 
Ni'W  Woi  1(1,  wlnTcvcr  tlit'irantliority  has  not  ln-fii  Urokcn  Ity 
Clivislianity  or  Jimldliism  ;  and  this  (Ircary  laitli  >«till  extends 
its  iiilliienc'o  over  at  least  half  a  million  of  sonis,  from  the 
W'hiti'  Sea  to  the  extrenuty  of  Asia,  and  from  the  Paeilic  t<» 
II  11(1  son's  Jiay. 

liike  the  Usljaks  and  other  yiberian  trihi's,  ih«'  Saniojedes 
ill. Hour  the  menioiy  of  the  dead  by  sacritiees  and  (»ther  eere- 
iiioiiies.  They  believe  that  their  deceased  IVieuds  have  still 
I  lie  same  wants,  and  pursue  the  same  occupations,  as  when  in 

I  lie  land  of  the  liviuff ;  and  thus  they  place  in  »»r  about  their 
graves  a  sled^-e,  a  spear,  a  coukin^'-pot,  a  knife,  an  axe,  i^c, 
to  assist  them  in  procurinj^-  and  i>ri'[)arin<^'  their  lood.  At, 
tip'  funeral,  and  l'(.)r  several  years  tiiterwards,  the  relations 
Micrilict!  reindeer  over  the  ^•rave.     When  a  person  of  note, 

II  |iriiice,  a  Starscliina,  the  i)ruprietor  of  numerous  herds  of 
iviiideer,  dies  (for  even  anK»ny  the  miserable  Saniojedes  wo 
find  the  social  distinctions  of  rii-h  and  poor),  the  nearest 
ivlatioiis  uiake  an  ima^v,  which  is  placed  in  the  tent  of  the 

•ceased,  and  enjoys  the  respect  paid  to  hini  durinj^-  his  life- 
time. At  evi'ry  meal  tlu^  imag'O  is  placed  in  his  former  seal, 
and  every  eveuiu<>-  it  is  undressed  and  laid  down  in  his  bi'd. 
iiiiriiiy'  three  years  the  imagv  is  thus  honoiu'ed,  and  then 
liiiried  ;  for  by  this  time  the  body  is  supposed  to  be  decayed, 
and  to  have  lust  all  sensation  of  the  past.  The  Sv)uls  of  the 
Tadibes,  and  of  those  who  have  died  a  violent  death,  alone 
I'liioy  the  privilej^'O  of  immortality,  and  after  their  terrestrial 
lite  hover  about  in  the  air  as  unsubstantial  spirits. 

\\'\  in  spite  of  this  privile^^v,  and  of  the  savoury  morsels 
iliat  fall  to  their  share  at  every  sacriticial  feast,  or  of  the 
[•resents  received  for  their  services,  the  Tadibes  are  very 
unhappy  beings.  The  ecstatic  coiulition  into  which  they 
so  fre(|uently  work  themselves,  shatters  their  nerves  and 
darkens  their  mind.  Wild  looks,  bloodshot  eyes,  an  uncer- 
tain n'ait,  and  a  shy  numner,  are  among  the  elfects  of  this 
iKiiodical  excitement. 

Like  the  Ostjaks,  the  Saniojedes  consider  the  taking  of  an 


III 


192 


TllK    I'Ul.All    \Vt)KI-l). 


(tilth  ;is  till  iidioii  of  tlic  hi^'host  i'eli;4'ious  iiiijturiiiiu'O.  AVlicii 
a  c'l-imu  has  boon  secretly  eonimitted  ii^'ainst,  a  Suiiiojeile,  he 
1ms  the  vi^-Ut  t(j  deiiiand  iiii  oath  IVoiu  the  suspected  iiersoii. 

Ft'  IK)  wooden  or  stone  Hahe  is  at  hand,  he  manufactures 
or.('  of  earth  or  snow,  leads  his  opponent  to  the  inia^-e,  sacri- 
lices  a  do<4',  breaks  the  iniaye,  and  then  addresses  him  witli 
the  fillowini;'  words: — '  If  thou  hast  coniniiited  this  crime, 
then  nnist  thou  p'rish  like  this  doy*  I  '  The  ill-conserpienees 
of  perjury  are  so  mnch  (h'eaded  by  the  Samojedes — who, 
tlu>ug-h  they  have  bnt  very  faint  ideas  of  a  fnture  stall*, 
firmly  believe  that  crime  ^^•'M  be  pnnished  in  this  life,  murder 
with  violent  death,  orrol)bt'i'v  by  losses  of  rein<h'er — that  the 
true  criminal,  whi'ii  called  upon  to  swear,  hardly  evt.'r  submiis 
to  the  ceremony,  but  rather  at  once  confess(,'S  his  guilt  and 
pays  the  jienaliy. 

The  most  etf<M;tual  security  for  an  oaih  is  tliat  it  sjiould  lie 
solemnised  ovt.-r  tlie  snout  of  a  bear — an  animal  which  is 
hi<4'hly  revered  liy  all  the  Sil)erian  tribes,  ironi  the  Kani- 
tsciiatlv'ans  i(»  tlie  .Sanuijedes.  as  well  as  by  the  Laplanders. 
Like  the  Laplanders,  they  believe  that  the  liear  conceals  under 
his  shay-gy  coat  a  human  shape  with  m<»re  than  huuiaii 
Avis(h>m,  and  speak  of  him  in  terms  of  the  hii.^hesl  revereii((\ 
Like  the  .lja2)[)S  also,  when  occasion  ort'ers.  they  will  drive  an 
ai'row  or  a  bullet  throui.';h  his  skin;  but  they  preface  the 
atta<;k  with  so  manv  comoliments,  that  tliev  feel  sure  of  dis- 
arming  his  anji'cr. 

The  appearanee  of  the  Samojedes  is  as  wild  as  the  country 
"wliich  they  inhabit.  Tin*  dwarfish  stature  of  the  Ostjak.  er 
the  La]ip,  thielc  li[is,  small  eyes,  a  low  fondiead,  a  bre,i<l 
uuse  Sit  mui-h  tlattened  that  the  end  is  nearly  upon  a  le\il 
with  t]ieli(tiie  of  till'  ujiper  jaw  (which  is  stroni;'  and  ^real 


IV 


•  •levati'd),  raven-l>laelc  sliau-;^y  hair,  a  thiii  ])eard.  and  a 
yell(t\v-br(twn  complexion,  are  their  characteristic  iV'atures, 
and  in  g'eneral  they  do  n(tlhiii<4"  to  improve  a  form  which  Inis 
bnt  little  naliu-al  beauty  to  l)oast  (tf.  The  8am(tjede  is  sati-^- 
fied  if  his  heavy  reinth'er-dress  affords  bin)  protection  ai^'aiii>t 
the  c(tld  and  rain,  au<l  cares  little  if  it  Ite  dii'ty  or  ill-cut  : 
some  dandies,  however,  w<'ar  furs  trimmed  with  chtth  of  a 
gaudy  i-t)lour.  The  wttmen,  as  long  as  they  are  unmarried, 
take  some  pains  with  their  persons  ;  and  when  a  iSamojede  girl. 


SA.MO.IKDH    roiH'LATIO.V. 


J  93 


,  AVluMi 
ji'ilo,  111' 
[)ev.S()ii. 

i\u-t\lV(,'S 

c,  siici'i- 
iiii  Avhli 
s  ei-iiui', 

'qiUMlcrs 

■s — Avlio, 
n?  still" % 
,  inur(l<'V 
-that  tin- 
submils 
••uilt  autl 

wliicli  is 
he  l\aiH- 
plaiKlt'i's. 
■ills  uiKln- 
I  liuiuaii 
vorciico. 
drivt'  iiii 
are  tilt' 
c  'A'  di~ 

ctmiiln' 
)sljal<.  "I" 

il      lllM.lll 
11     !t     li'\''l 

(I  o'vciilly 
(1.   iiud    ;i 

iV'aiiiV'-. 
ihicli  lias 
e  is  sati^ 
»n  a^'iiiii^t 
V  ill-cut  : 
l(.tli  of  a 
iimaiTiod, 

>jede  gii'l" 


witli  her  small  and  lively  l)liU'k  cyt's,  apju'iirs  in  licr  roiiidoor 
jarkct  tightly  littiiii;'  round  the  wiiist,  and  iriiiniicd  with  do;^-- 
>kiii,  ill  her  scai'li't  mocassins,  and  her  loiii^'  black  tivsses 
nrnaniontod  with  pieces  of  bniss  or  tin,  slie  may  well  tempt 
some  rich  admirer  to  otter  a  whole  herd  of  reindeer  for  lun- 
hand.  For  amoiiij;-st  the  S;iniojedes  no  father  ever  tliinks  of 
lu'stowing-  u  portion  on  his  dany-liter  :  on  the  e»»ntrary,  ho 
vX[)ects  from  the  hridej^Toom  an  oqnivalent  for  the  services 
which  he  is  about  to  lose  by  her  nnirriiiye.  The  ci>nse- 
(|ii('nce  of  this  deoTiidin*^-  custom  is  thtit  the  husbiiiid  treiits 
his  consort  like  a  sliive,  or  as  an  inferior  bein^-.  A  Samojede, 
who  laid  Jiiurch'red  his  wife,  Wiis  quite  surprised  at  bein^- 
suiiiiiioned  before  a  court  of  justice  for  what  he  considered  a 
tiitliiiLi,-  otfence ;  'he  had  honestly  paid  for  her,'  he  said,  'and 
cniild  surely  do  what  he  liked  with  his  own/ 

'file  senses  and  faculties  of  the  Samojech's  corresi)ond  to 
their  ni(»de  of  life  as  nomads  iind  hunters.  They  Inive  a 
pici'ciiiM-  (>ye,  delicate  hearinf^',  and  a  steady  lumd  :  tliey  shoot 
iiii  iirrow  with  i^'reat  accuracy,  tind  are  swilt  runners.  On 
the  (tiller hiuid,  they  have  ii  ^-ross  tsiste,  ^•enerally  consuming- 
thiir  fish  or  their  reindeer-ilesh  riiw  ;  and  their  smell  is  so 
wc;ik  tliiit  they  iippear  quito  insensible  to  the  putrefying- 
nilnurs  arising;'  from  the  sent [)inj4's  <»f  skins,  stinkin;^"  tish,  and 
nthcr  oifal  which  is  allowed  to  accumulate  in  and  about  their 
hilts. 

The  Siimojede  is  i^ood-mitured,  melancholy,  and  [)hle;4'- 
iiiiitic.  He  has.  indeed,  but  indistinct  notions  of  ri^'lit  and 
wiuiiM'.  of  u'ood  and  evil ;  but  lie  [tossesses  a  ^riitefulln'iirt,  and 
is  I'ciidy  to  divi(h'  his  last  morsel  with  his  friend.  Cruelty, 
ivvt'iiL^'e,  the  darker  crimes  tluit  jioUiite  so  niiiny  of  the 
sii\;iL;-e  tribes  of  the  tropic.il  zone,  iire  foi'ei^'ii  tolas  eharactei'. 
< 'oiistiintly  iit  Wiir  with  \i  dre.idful  clinnite,  a  ]>rey  to  i<4'no- 
I'ancc  mid  poverty,  he  ri'<^"!irds  most  ot'  the  tliiiiii's  of  this  lift; 
wit  h  supreme  indilfereiice.  A  ;^'o(»d  meal  is  of  coni'se  a  m;it- 
ti'i'  of  importance  in  his  eyes;  but  even  the  Wiint  of  ii  meal 
he  will  bear  with  stoical  iipathy,  when  it  can  only  be  i^'ained 
I'V  exertion,  for  he  sets  ii   still  higher  value  on  repose  iind 

:^li'e[i, 

A  common  triiit  in  the  cluiracter  of  all  .Siiniojedes,  is  the 
Lil'K.iiiy  view  which  they  tiike  of  life  ;ind  its  concerns;   their 

o 


104 


TllK    I'Uf.AU    WoKLIi. 


|i  I 


internal  world  is  us  clit'erless  as  that  which  surrounds  them. 
True  men  of  ice  and  snow,  they  relin(|uish,  Avithout  a  ninr- 
mnr,  a  hfo  which  they  can  hardly  l(»ve,  as  it  imposes  upon 
them  many  privations,  and  ulFords  them  hnt  few  pleasures  in 
return. 

They  a)'0  suspicious,  like  all  oppressed  nations  that  have 
much  to  suffer  from  their  more  crafty  or  ener^'ctic  nei«^"li- 
houi's.  Oljstinately  attached  to  their  old  customs,  they  are 
opposed  to  all  innovations  ;  and  they  have  been  so  often 
deceived  by  the  Russians,  that  they  may  well  be  pardoned  if 
they  h)(>k  Avith  a  mistrustful  eye  upon  all  benefits  coming' 
from  that  source. 

The  wealth  of  the  Samojedes  consists  in  tlu^  possession  of 
herds  of  reindeer,  and  P.  von  Ki'usenstei-n,  in  18  l-">,  calculated 
the  nundjer  owned  bv  the  Samojedes  of  the  Lower  Petschoni. 
near  Pustosersk,  at  l(),(MM)  head — a  nuich  smaller  number 
than  Avhut  they  formerly  had,  OAvin<^'  to  a  succession  of  mis- 
fortunes. The  Russian  settlers  alon^-  that  inunense  stream 
and  its  tributaries  gTadually  ol)tain  possession  of  their  best 
pasture-g-rounds,  and  force  them  to  recede  Avithiii  narrower 
and  naiTOAver  limits.  Thus  many  ha\^e  been  reduced  to  the 
AA'retched  condition  of  the  Arctic  lishernmn,  or  ha\'e  been 
compelled  to  exchanL!,'e  their  ancient  independence  for  a  life 
of  submission  to  the  will  of  an  imiierious  master. 

The  entire  number  of  the  European  and  Asiatic  Samojedt  s 
is  estimated  at  nt»  more  than  about  10,(>()(>,  and  this  nundier. 
small  as  it  is  Avhen  compared  to  the  A'ast  territory  over  Aviiieli 
they  roam,  is  still  decreasing-  from  year  to  year.  Before  their 
subjuo-ation  by  the  Russians,  the  Samojedes  Avere  frecpiently 
at  war  Avith  their  nei<,dibonrs,  the  Ostjaks,  the  Wof;-uls,  and 
the  Tartars,  and  the  rude  poems  which  celebrate  the  deeds 
of  the  heroes  of  old  are  still  suno-  in  the  tents  of  their  peace- 
ful descendants.  The  nn'Dsfrcl,  or  tyiniliddoiir — if  T  may  tie 
alloAA'ed  to  use  these  names  while  sj^eakino-  of  the  rudest  el 
mankind — is  seated  in  the  centre  of  the  hut.  Avhile  the 
audience  squat  around.  His  <4'esticulations  endeavour  te 
express  his  sympathy  Avith  his  hero.  His  body  trenddes,  liis 
voice  quivers,  and  during;  the  ntore  pathetic  parts  of  his  story. 
tears  start  to  his  eyes,  and  he  co\ors  his  face  with  his  It  tt 


' 


ids  them, 
it  u  mnv- 
oses  upon 
ensures  in 

that  have 

ic  nei«^'h- 

they  aro 

so   often 

irdoned  if 


:s  coming' 


session  of 
;aleuhite(l 
'etschora. 
f  imiiihcr 
1  of  mis- 
;e  stream 
heir  best 
narrower 
e<T  to  the 
.ave  been 
for  a  lite 

amoji'di  ,s 
number, 
■er  Avhicli 
OTe  their 
•equently 
[jfuls,  11  nd 
he  deeds 
'ir  peaee- 
[  may  ho 
rudest  i>l' 
Idle  the 
iivour  te 
ibk^s,  his 
lis  st()r\ . 
.1  his  lel'f 


SAMOJKDf.:    TJtOLl'ADOUH.S.  if,j 

I.U..1  while  the  risht.  hoWi,,.  „„  ,,,-0..,  directs  its  point 
0  the  ground.  The  audi,.„ee  generally  keep  silenee  l,„t 
then-  groans  accompany  the  hero's  death;  or  when  he  soars 
"l">"  -n  eagle  to  the  elonds,  and  thns  escapes  the  n.alice 
e     us  enemies,  they  express  their  delight  by  a  trinn.phaut 


The  Snow  Bunting, 


o  2 


mmmmmmmmm 


CHAPTER   XV. 


TIIK    OSTJAKS. 

\\'Iiat  is  tile  01)i?  Iiiuiitlatidus  -An  dstjak  Sinnincr  .riirl  — TDVcrty  of  tlw  O^ij.ik 
I'lslnriiifii  A  WmtiT  .I\irt  Attarlmniit  oi'  tlio  ()>ljaks  t(i  tlu'ir  ain'ii'iit  Cu<- 
tdins  All  (tstjak  I'riiicc — Arclicry — .\|iiiiaraiu'<'  and  (."liarui-tur  ot'  tlir  Osijiik-- 
.--Tlic  l'"air  ofOLd.ii'sk. 

TiniAT  is  the  UbiP— 'Ono  of  the  most  inokncholy 
*  *  rivers  on  earth,'  say  the  few  Eurojieaii  travellers  who 
have  ever  seen  it  roll  its  turbid  waters  thron^'h  the  Avilderiiess, 
'its  luonotonons  banks  a  dreary  succession  of  swamps  ami 
dismal  pine-foresis,  and  hardly  a  living'  creature  to  be  seen, 
but  cranes,  wild  ducks,  and  yvese.'  If  ydu  address  the  saino 
question  to  t»ne  of  the  few  Russians  who  have  settled  (Hi 
its  banks,  he  answers,  with  a  devout  mien,  'Old  is  (nir 
motlier  ; '  but  if  you  ask  tlie  C)stiak,  he  bursts  forth,  in  a 
laconic  but  cner«i'etic  phrase — 'Obi  is  the  j^'od  whom  avo 
luaiour  above  all  (»nr  other  i^'ods.' 

To  him  the  Olii  is  a  source  of  life.     With  its  salmon  ami 
>sturye(>n    lie  pays    hi.-   taxes    and   debts,  and  buys    his  few 


of  tlic  (>^i,;;ik 

iiioiunt  ('»— 

tile  (istiiik- 


'lanclioly 
Hers  Avlid 
ilderiit^ss, 
lups  sukI 
Ijo  set '11. 
the  same 
_»ttled  (111 
hi  is  (iiir 
>rili,  ill  ii 
■Nvhoiu  ^vt' 

hiioii  iiinl 
bis  lew 


TIIK    l{IVi:i{    Olil. 


I'.u 


liixnrios;  while  the  fishes  of  inferior  (jiiahty  whieh  ^-et  eii- 
tiiiiju'h'tl  in  his  net  ho  keeps  for  his  own  eonsnniption,  and 
tluit  of  his  faithful  doj^-,  eatinu-  ilicni  mostly  raw,  so  tlait  the 
pt'reh  not  seldom  feels  his  teeth  as  soon  as  it  is  pulled 
(lilt  of  the  water.  In  sprinu;-,  when  the  Obi  and  its  tribu- 
tiiries  burst  their  bonds  of  ice,  and  the  floods  sweep 
ever  the  plains,  the  Ostjak  is  frecpiently  driven  into  the 
woods,  where  he  finds  but  little  to  appease  his  lunii^-er ; 
at  leny-th,  however,  the  waters  subside,  the  flat  banks  of 
till'  river  appear  above  their  surfaee,  and  the  sava^^e  erects 
his  sunnner  hut  cdose  to  its  stream.  This  hovel  bus 
Li't'iierally  a  quadrany'ular  form,  low  walls,  and  a  hi«^'h 
poi'ited  roof,  made  of  willow-branches  covered  Avith  lar«i'e 
pirees  of  bark.  These,  havino-  first  been  softened  by 
bdiilii^',  are  sewn  too'ether,  so  as  to  form  lar^'e  mats  or 
(.iirpets,  easily  rolled  up  and  transported.  The  hearth,  a  mere 
liole  enclosed  by  a  few  stones,  is  in  the  centre,  and  the  smoke 
escapes  throno-h  an  aperture  at  the  top.  Close  to  the  hut  there 
is  also,  o-onerally,  a  small  storehouse  erected  on  hiyh  poles, 
as  ill  Lapland  ;  for  the  provisions  must  be  secured  against 
tlic  attacks  of  the  glutton,  the  Avolf,  or  the  owner's  dogs. 

Although  the  Obi  and  its  tributaries — the  Irtyseh,  the 
Wach,  the  Wasjugan — abundantly  provide  for  the  wants 
"f  the  Ostjaks,  yet  those  who  are  exclusively  fishermen 
Vfurtate  in  a,  state  of  the  greatest  poverty,  in  indolence, 
•Iniukenness,  and  vice.  The  wily  Russian  setth.'rs  have  got 
tlit'iii  completely^  in  their  power,  by  advancing  them  goods 
"11  crv'dit,  and  thus  securing  the  produce  of  their  fisheries 
tium  year  to  year.  During  the  whole  summer  Russian 
siH'culators  from  Obdorsk,  Beresow,  and  Tobolsk,  sail  about 
<m  t!ie  Obi,  to  I'eceive  from  their  (.)stjak  debtors  the  salmon 
and  sturgeon  which  they  have  caught,  or  to  fish  on  their  own 
accniiiit,  which,  as  having  better  nets  and  more  assistance, 
llicy  do  with  much  greater  success  than  the  poor  savages. 

The  Russian  Government  has,  indeed,  conliniied  the  <  )st  jaks 
in  the  possession  of  almost  all  the  land  and  water  in  the 
territories  (»f  the  LoAver  Obi  and  Trtysch,  but  the  Russian 
traders  find  means  to  monopolise  the  best  part  of  tli<' 
tisiii'i'i(>s :  t'nr  ignorance  and  stupidity,  in  spite  ol'  all  laws  in 
'lii'ir  favoui".  are  nowhere  a  match  lor  mercantile  cunning. 


198 


TUK    TOLA  It   WOULD. 


i!    I 


At  the  boo-iiiiiin^'of  winter,  tlio  Ostjaks  retire  into  the  woods, 
where  they  find  at  least  some  proteetion  ai^ainst  the  Arctic 
blasts,  and  are  busy  hnntin<^  the  sable  or  the  sqnirrel  ;  Imt 
as  fishinf^  iift'ords  them  at  all  times  their  chief  fo(»d,  thcv 
take  care  to  establish  their  Avintcr  lints  on  some  eminence 
above  the  reach  of  the  sprin^,'  innndations,  near  some  small 
river,  which,  throno-h  holes  made  in  the  ice,  affords  their  nets 
and  an<i;-leis  a  precarious  supply.  Their  winter  jurt  is  some- 
what more  solidly  constructed  than  their  summer  residence, 
as  it  is  not  removed  every  year.  It  is  low  and  small,  and  its 
walls  arn  plastered  with  chiy.  Lifjht  is  admitted  throun^h  a 
piece  of  loe  ii>-^rted  in  the  wall,  or  on  the  roof.  In  the 
better  sort  <-"  im  ,,  the  space  alonfj^  one  or  several  of  the  walls; 
is  hunfif  with  mats  made  of  sedges,  and  here  the  family  sits  or 
sleeps.  tSo  ,  times  a  small  antechamber  serves  to  hanf^  ny 
the  clothes,  or  is  used  as  a  r-^jjository  for  household  utensils. 
Besides  those  who  live  solely  upon  fishes  and  birds  of  pas- 
sage, there  are  other  Ostjaks  who  possess  reindeer  herds. 
and  wander  in  summer  to  the  border  of  the  Polar  sea,  where 
they  also  catch  seals  and  fish.  When  Avinter  approaches, 
they  slowly  retnrn  to  the  woods.  Finally,  in  the  movf^ 
sonthernly  districts,  there  are  some  Ostjaks  who,  havini: 
entirely  adopted  the  Russian  mode  of  life,  cultivate  tli*' 
soil,  keep  cattle,  or  earn  their  livelihood  as  carriers. 

In  general,  however,  the  Ostjak,  like  the  Sumojede,  obsti- 
nately withstands  all  innovations,  and  remains  true  to  the 
customs  of  his  forefathers.  He  has  been  so  often  deceived 
b}'  the  Russians  that  he  is  loth  to  receive  the  gifts  of  civili- 
sation from  their  hands.  He  fears  that  if  his  children  learn 
to  read  and  write,  they  will  no  longer  be  satisfied  to  live 
like  their  parents,  and  that  the  school  Avill  deprive  hini  el' 
the  suppf)rt  of  his  age.  He  is  no  less  obstinately  attached 
to  the  religion  of  his  fathers,  Avhicli  in  all  essential  points 
is  identical  with  that  of  the  Samojedes,  In  some  of  tlie 
southern  districts,  along  the  Irtysch,  at  Surgut,  he  has  in- 
deed been  baptized,  and  hangs  uj)  the  image  of  a  saint  in  his 
hut,  as  his  Russian  pope  or  priest  has  instructed  him  to  de : 
but  his  Christianity  extends  no  further  Along  the  tribn- 
taries  of  the  Obi,  and  below  Obdorsk,  he  is  still  plunged  in 
Schamanism. 

Like   the  Hajnojedes,   the   Ostjaks,   whose  entire   number 


niAKAfTKIi   ol'    TIIK    »»sT.lAKs. 


kt:» 


I  e  woods, 
le  Arctic 
■rcl  ;  1)111 
)0(1,  tln\v 
'inincTift* 
110  siruill 
heir  nets 

is  soino- 
GsitleiK'c, 
1,  and  its 
hronn'li  ii 
In  thf 
tho  Willis 
ily  sits  f>r 
i  lianfr  u]i 

ntensils. 
s  of  pas- 
er  herds, 
ea,  whf'vo 
iproaches, 
the  move 

,  haviiii:' 

ivate  tlif 

de,  obsti- 

ae  to  the 

deceived 

of  civili- 

ren  Iciivii 

d   to   Hve 

e  him  <>1 

attached 

ial  points 

iie  of  the 

e  has  in- 

int  in  his 

im  to  do  : 

he  trihii- 

nn(ved  in 

'   nnmbt^r 


11  nil  Hints  to  about  2-'). ('()(»,  are  subdivided  into  tribes,  rr- 
niiiidiii''' one  of  the  lliu'hhind  chins.  Each  tribe  consists  of 
a  Hiiiulter  of  families,  of  a  comni(»n  descent,  and  sonietiiues 
riim]trisiii<4'  many  hundred  indivitUials,  wlio,  however  distantly 
i'cl;it"'il,  consider  it  a  duty  to  assist  each  other  in  distress. 
Tlic  fortunate  lishcrnuin  divides  the  sjtoils  of  the  day  with 
liis  less  fortunate  clansman,  who  hardly  thanks  liini  for  a 
^it't  which  he  considers  as  his  due.  In  cases  of  dispute  the 
Starschina.  or  elder,  acts  as  a  jiidL;*' ;  if,  h(»wever,  the  ]>arties 
ai-e  not  satisfied  with  his  verdict,  they  appeal  to  the  hl«4'her 
authority  of  the  hereditary  (diieftain  or  prince — a  title  which 
lias  l)een  conferred,  by  the  Km})ress  Catherine  H.,  on  the 
(>stjak  mag'uates  who,  froui  time  immemorial,  have  been 
ciiiisirhM'ed  as  the  heads  (»f  their  tribes.  These  princes  are.  of 
eonrse,  subordinate  to  the  Russian  ofticials,  and  bound  to  ap- 
jM'ar,  with  the  Starschinas,  at  the  fairs  of  lieresow  or  Obdorsk, 
as  they  are  answerable  for  the  (piantity  and  fjuality  of  the 
vai'ious  Sorts  of  furs  which  the  Ostjaks  are  obliy-ed  to  pay 
as  a  tribute  to  Government.  Their  di;4uity  is  hereditary,  and, 
in  default  of  male  descendants,  passes  to  the  nearest  nu>le  re- 
lation. It  must,  however,  not  l)e  supposed  that  tlu'se  princes 
are  distini^uished  from  the  other  (Jstjaks  by  their  riches,  or  a 
more  splendid  appearance  ;  for  their  mo(h'  of  life  differs  in 
no  way  from  that  of  their  inferiors  iu  rank,  and  like  them 
they  are  obliged  to  Hsh  or  to  hunt  ibr  their  daily  subsistence. 

On  entering  the  liut  of  one  of  these  di<^nitaries,  Castreu 
found  him  in  a  ra<^'yed  jacket,  while  the  i)rincess  had  no 
other  robe  t»f  state  but  a  shirt.  The  prince,  having-  liberally 
Inlped  himself  from  the  brandy-bottle  which  the  traveller 
•  'lit  red  him,  became  very  communicative,  and  complained  of 
the  sulferinns  and  cares  of  the  past  Avinter.  He  had  exerted 
himself  to  the  utnu»st,  but  without  success.  Far  from  t^'iviiii;" 
way  to  in(h)Ience  in  his  turf-luit,  he  had  been  (nit  hunting-  in 
the  foivst,  after  the  iirst  snow-fall,  but  rarely  pitehinu*  his 
hark-tent,  and  frecpiently  sleepin<^'  in  the  open  air.  Vet,  in 
s[iite  of  all  his  exertions,  he  had  (d'ten  not  l)een  able  tc*  shoot 
:i  sin^'leptarmiy'an.  His  stores  of  meal  and  frozen  fishes  were 
seoii  exhausted,  and  sometimes  the  princely  family  had  been 
I'M  bleed  to  eat  the  tle->h  of  wolves. 

The  Ostjaks  are  excellent  arfdiers.  and,  like  all  the  othei- 
hunt  inn'  tril)es  of  Siberia,  use  variouslv  constructed  arrf>ws  tor 


mmm 


200 


TIIH    roi.AU    WORF.n. 


the  difforont  objects  of  tlioir  oluiso.  Snuiller  sliiit't.^,  with  ii 
Icuob  of  wood  at  the  end,  are  destined  tor  tlie  S([uiiTelH  ami 
other  small  auiiiuils  wliose  fur  it  is  desiral)le  not  to  injure; 
whiki  hu'<4'e  arrows  with  stron;^'  trian^^ular  iron  ]ioints  brin^;- 
down  the  wolf,  the  bear,  an<l  sonietinu-s  Iho  fuj^itive  cxilr. 
F(»r,  to  prevent  th(>  escape  of  criminals  sentenced  to  biinisli- 
meiit  in  Siberia,  the  Russian  (Jovernment  nllows  the  Ostjaks 
to  shoot  any  unknown  person,  not  belon^-ine-  to  their  race, 
Avhom  they  may  meet  with  on  their  territory.  Although 
well  aAvare  of  this  dan^^vr,  several  exiles  have  attempted  to 
escape  to  Arehanyel  alon<4"  the  border  of  the  Arctic  sea  ;  but 
they  either  died  of  hun^-ei',  or  were  devoured  by  wild  beasts. 
or  shot  by  the  Ostjaks.  There  is  but  one  instance  known  of 
an  exile,  wdio,  after  spending-  a  whole  year  on  the  journey,  a< 
length  reached  the  abodes  of  civilised  man,  and  he  was 
pardoned  in  consideration  of  the  dreadful  sulferings  he  had 
undergone. 

The  Ostjaks  are  generally  of  a  small  stature,  and  most  of 
them  arc  dark-com})lexioned,  with  raven-black  hair  like  the 
Samojedes ;  some  of  them,  however,  have  a  fairer  skin  ami 
light-coloured  hair.  They  have  neither  the  oblique  eyes 
nor  the  broad  projecting  cheek-bones  of  the  Mongols  and 
Tungus,  but  bear  a  greater  resenddance  to  the  Finnisli. 
Samojede,  and  Turkish  cast  of  countenance.  They  are  a 
good-natured,  indolent,  honest  race ;  and  tln^ugh  they  are 
extremely  dirty,  yet  their  smrdcy  huts  are  not  more  tilthy 
than  those  of  the  Norwegian  or  Icelandic  lisherman.  As 
among  the  Samojedes,  the  women  are  in  a  very  degraded 
condition,  the  father  always  giving  his  daughter  in  marriage 
to  the  highest  bidder.  The  price  is  very  dilferent,  and  rises 
or  falls  according  to  the  circumstances  of  the  parent;  for 
while  the  rich  man  asks  fifty  reindeer  for  his  child,  the  poor 
fisherman  is  glad  to  part  with  his  daughter  for  a  few  squirrel- 
skins  and  dried  sturgeon. 

Before  taking  leave  of  the  Ostjaks,  we  will  still  tarry  a 
moment  at  the  small  town  of  Obdorsk,  which  may  be  con- 
sidered as  the  capital  of  their  country,  and  entirely  owes 
its  existence  to  the  trade  carried  on  l>etween  them  and  tlic 
Russians.  Formerly  the  merchants  from  Beresow  and  To- 
bolsk used  merely  to  visit  the  spot,  but  the  ditliculties  of  tlic 
journey  soon  com])elled  tlicm  to  (>stal>lish  pcrnianei't  dwell- 


I!    I 


OST.TAK    FA  HIS. 


'201 


,  Avllh  ii 
i'i'Ih  mill 
>  injur*' : 
its  brinu' 
vc  cxilt'. 

l)!iinsli- 
'  Ostjiil<s 
.i.'ir  viiec, 
Vltluaigli 
mpled  tn 

sea  ;  but 
id  l)eiists, 
known  of 
(urney,  at 
l1  ho  Avas 
o-s  lie  luul 

J.  most  (^f 
ir  like  the 
•  skin  and 
lique  eyes 
nu'ols  and 
Finnislu 
ley  are  a 
they  are 
lore  tilthy 
num.     As 
deu'raded 
nuirriatie 
,  and  rises 
I  rent ;   i'"V 
,  the  pool- 
Lv  squirrel- 

lill  tarry  u 
|iy  be  oou- 
Ircdy  owes 
In  and  tlie 
lv  and  Tt>- 
ties  of  the 
lent  dwell- 


\n'^s    in    that   dreary  re;4-i(>n.     A   certaiti   number  of*   exiles 
serves  to  inerease  the  seanty  population,  whieh  consists  of  a 
strano-e  nn'dley   of   various   nations,   ann>ny  Avhom   (*astren 
tnun<l  a  Calnuu-k,  a  Kir^his,  and  a  l\)lish  cook,  who  bitterly 
eoniplained  that  he  had  but  few  o[)[)ortunities  of  sliowin<,'  his 
skill  in  a  town  where  people  lived  <"'  In  Ostjak.     In  fact,  most 
of  the  Russian  inhalntants  of  the  place  have  in  so  far  a(htpt(Hl 
the  Ostjak   mode  vt'  life,   as  to   deem  the  eookin<;'  of  their 
victuals  superfluous.   "When  Castren,  on  his  arrival  at  Obdorsk, 
jiaid  a  visit  to  a  Tobolsk  nu'rchant,  who  had  been  for  some 
tiiiie  settled  in  the  place,  he  found  the  whole  family  lyin;^  on 
the  floor,  reu;'alini;'  t>n  raAV  fish,  and  the  most  civilised  person 
lie  met  with  told  him  that  he  had  tasted  neither  b(jiled  nor  roast 
llrsh  or  tish  for  half  a  year.    Yet  fine  shawls  and  dresses,  and 
iiiiw  no  doubt  the  crinoline  and  the  chi^j^non,  are  found  amidst 
all  this  barbarism.     Edifices  with  the  least  pretensions  to  ar- 
chitectural beauty  it  Avoidd  of  course  be  vain  to  look  for  in 
( )lidorsk.    The  houses  of  the  better  sort  of  llussian  settlers  are 
two-storied,  or  consistinji;  of  a  ^Tound-floor  and  ^-arrets ;  but 
as  they  are  built  of  wood,  and  are  by  no  nutans  wind-tight, 
the  half-famished  Ostjaks,  Avho  have  settled  in  the  town,  are 
lirobably  more  comfortably  housed    in  their  low  turf-huts, 
than  the  prosperous  Russian  inhabitants  of  the  place.     The 
latter  make  it  their  chief  occupation  to   cheat  the  Ostjaks 
in  every  possible  way ;  some  of  them,  however,  aHd  to  this 
profitable,  if  not  praiseworthy  occupation,  the  keepin<;-  of 
reindeer  herds,  or  even  of  cows  and  sheep. 

The  fair  lasts  from  the  beii-innino-  of  Avinter  to  February, 
and  during-  this  time  the  Ostjaks  who  assemble  at  Obdorsk 
pitch  their  bark -tents  about  the  town.  With  their  an'ival  a 
new  life  begins  to  stir  in  the  wretched  place.  Groups  of  the 
wild  sons  and  daughters  of  the  tundra,  clothed  in  heavy 
skins,  make  their  appearance,  and  stroll  slowly  through  the 
streets,  admiring  the  high  wooden  houses,  which  to  them 
seem  palaces.  But  nothing  is  to  be  seen  of  the  aninuition 
and  activity  Avliich  usually  characterise  a  fair.  Concealing 
some  costly  fur  under  his  wide  skin  nnintle,  the  savage  l)ays 
his  cautious  visit  to  the  trath.u',  and  nuikes  his  bargain  amid 
copious  libations  of  brandy.  He  is  well  aware  that  this 
underhand  way  of  dealing  is  detrinunital  to  his  interests; 
hilt  his  timorous  disposition  shrinks  from  public  sales,  and 


Wt^^fjiy^mf^mimm 


202 


TIIK    I'OI.AK    \Vol!l,|). 


frequently  lio  is  not  «,'von  in  llie  situation  to  jn'ofil  1»\  coni- 
])L>tition  ;  lor  iinu)n<^'  tin.'  lli(»usunds  that  Hock  t(t  the  tair, 
there  are  but  very  lew  who  do  not  owe  to  the  tra<lers  of 
Ohdorsk  much  more  than  they  possess,  or  c-an  ever  hop*;  to 
repay.  W(»e  to  tlie  poor  Ostjak  whose  creditor  shoidd  tiiid 
him  deallnt;'  with  some  other  trath'r ! — for  the  seizure  of  all  his 
moveable  property,  of  liis  tent  an<l  household  utensils,  would 
be  the  least  punishment  which  the  "wretch  turued  adrift  into 
the  naked  desert  would  have  to  expect.  The  fair  is  not 
opened  bef<»r<'  (Jovernment  has  received  the  furs  which  are 
due  to  it,  or  at  least  a  g-uiirantee  for  the  amount  from  the 
merchants  of  the  place.  Then  the  maj^azines  of  the  traders 
gTadually  tdl  with  furs — with  cl<»thes  of  reindeer-skin  ready- 
made,  with  feathers,  reindeer-flesh,  frozeu  sturgeon,  mam- 
moth tusks,  i^c.  For  these  jj^oods  the  Ostjaks  receive  flour, 
baked  bread,  tobacco,  jjots,  kettles,  knives,  needles,  brass 
buttons  and  ring's,  glass  pearls,  and  other  trifling  articles. 
An  open  trade  in  spirits  is  not  allowed;  but  brandy  may  be 
sold  as  a  medicine,  and  thus  many  an  Ostjak  takes  advantage 
of  the  fair  for  undergoing  a  cure  the  reverse  of  that  -which 
is  recommended  by  hydropathic  doctors. 

Towards  the  end  of  February,  when  the  r)stjaks  have  re- 
tired into  the  woods — where  they  hunt  or  tend  their  reindeer 
herds  until  the  opening  of  the  fishing  season  recalls  them  to 
the  Obi — the  trader  prepares  for  his  join'uey  to  Irbit,  Avhere 
he  hopes  to  dispose  of  his  furs  at  an  enornutus  profit,  am! 
Obdorsk  is  once  more  left  until  the  following  winter  to  its 
deathlike  solitude. 


The  Sable. 


1»\     (Mllll- 

lie    I'iiii', 
lulcrs  (if 

ll(>[M'     ((> 

iild  iind 
.fiillliis 
S,  Udllld 
.ril't  into 
r  is  iifil 
liicli  art' 
r(,)m  the 
:>  tradors 
11  ivadv- 
11,  luaiii- 
ivo  flour, 
:'S,  brass 
articles. 
(  may  1)p 
Ivautao-p 
at  Avliich 

have  re- 

rciiuloor 

them  to 

,  Avherc 

(•fit,  and 

r  to  its 


::£m 


'i-jtj.lc.-:. 


(MIA ITER    XVI. 

(  ONQIEST    OF    SFIIKRIA    BY  THE    lU'SSIAXS-    TFiriT?    VOYAGE';    OF 
DISCOVERY    ALON(i    THE    SIIOHES    OF    THE    I'OLAH    SFIA. 

IvriM  tlio  Tcrrililc— -StiYiii-oiuitf  Ycri:i;ik  tlic  UmMki- and  C'liiiijiwrdr  lli.<  Mxjifdi- 
tidiis  to  Siljcria  -  linttlc  ii\'  T(jbr)lsk  -  ^'ci'iiiak's  ])catli  l'r(i^;r('ss  of  ili,'  K'lis- 
siaiistti  Ocliiitsk-  St'int'ii  I)(>liiii-\v  -  Coiiditioii  of  the  Sil'crian  N:itivi>  umlrrflic 
Russian  Yoke  Voyajifs  of  Uiscovcry  in  tlic  Rciirn  of  liic  I'ltnjircss  Anna  - 
Pi'iintschisclitscliew — L'liariton  ami  I)cmcti'in<  I,a]>fi\v  -.\ii  arctii'  Jrcrnino — 
Si'halauruw  I  )i^c.n-rries  in  the  Si  a  of  iSrhrinir  aiid  in  tlif  I'ai-ilir  O.'i-an — 'riii-> 
Liik-liow  Islaml-  I'o.ssil  Ivory  N'W  SiIm  ria— Tlir  W.i.iilcn  .Muiuilains— 'riir 
past  Ages  of  Silicria. 

IN  the  lJ('^■illlli]lu'  of  the  thirteeiitli  centurN-.  tlie  now  Imn'e 
J'hn[)ire  of  Russia  was  coufiiieil  t<»  ]iart  (d'  iicr  orcsfiil 
Knropeaii  possessions,  and  divided  into  several  iude|)endent 
priuciitalities,  the  scone  of  disuni(»!i  and  almost  jjerputual 
warfare.  Thus  when  the  country  was  invaded,  in  ri-"!(i,  by 
tlit^  Tartars,  under  Baaty  Khan,  a  grandson  of  tlie  famous 
<ieiio-is  Khan,  it  fell  an  easy  prey  to  its  concpierors.  The 
miseries  of  a  foreij^-n  yoke,  ag'g-ravated  by  intestine  discord, 
lasted  ab(»ut   2.")0  years,  until  Tvan  Wasiljewitscli   I.  (1402- 


204 


TIIK    POI.AU    WOKM). 


loO,'))  bcpiiiiK'  lilt'  (It'liviTcr  oC  liis  country,  uihI  liii<l  llir 
foiiiidiiiiniis  of  lu'r  ruturc  ^Tciitiicss.  'J'liis  nhlr  [triiicc  sul»- 
«lii('(l,  ill  I  I7<>,  the  (it'int  \(>r)i(ir(iil,ii  city  until  then  so|M»W('r- 
I'lil  ;is  t<»  liitvc  niuintiiiiUMl  its  iii<l('i»cnilcnc(',  both  ai^ainst  the 
llussiiin  f^n'iind  princes  mid  the  Tiirtar  khiins;  and,  ten  years 
later,  he  not  only  throw  otf  the  yoke  of  the  Khans  of  Khip- 
sack,  hut  destroyed  their  empire.  The  con(|nesi  ol'Constan- 
lino[)le  l)y  the  Turks  placed  the  spiritual  diadem  of  the 
ancient  Ca-sai's  on  his  head,  and  caused  him,  as  chief  of  the 
(j!re(dv  orthochix  Church,  to  exchani^v  his  old  title  of  (.irand 
Prince  for  the  more  si<4'niricant  and  iiiiposini;'  one  of  ( V.ar. 

His  <4'randson,  fvau  VV'asiljewitsch  FI.,a  cruel  hut  ener^^-etic 
monarch,  C(»u<]uered  Kasau  in  ir)r)2,and  thus  completely  and 
permanently  overthrow  the  dominion  of  the  Tartars.  Two 
years  later  ho  subdued  Astrakhan,  and  planted  the  Cii'oek 
cross  on  tho  bonU'rs  of  tho  Caspuiii  Sea,  where  until  then 
only  the  Crescent  had  boeu  soon. 

lu  spite  of  the  iidiuman  cruelty  that  diso-raced  his  idia- 
racter,  and  oarued  for  him  tho  name  of  Tcrrihlr,  Ivan  sought, 
like  his  illustrious  successor  Peter  tho  CJroat,  to  iutro(lucr 
the  arts  and  sciences  of  Western  Europe  into  his  barbarous 
realm,  and  to  improve  tho  Russian  manufactures  by  eii- 
couraj^'in;^-  (Jorman  artists  and  mechanics  to  settle  in  the 
country.  It  was  in  his  roij^'u  that  Chancellor  discovered  the 
passage  from  En<ifland  to  tho  White  Sea,  and  Ivan  gladly 
seized  tho  opportunity  thus  afforded.  Soon  after  this  the 
port  of  Archan;4'el  was  built,  and  thus  a  now  seat  was  oponeil 
to  civilisation  at  tho  northern  extremity  of  Europe. 

After  the  concpiost  of  Kasan,  several  Russians  settled  in 
that  province;  amon<j^  others,  a  merchant  of  the  name  of 
Strog-onoff,  who  established  some  salt-works  on  the  bank-; 
of  tho  Kama,  and  opened  a  trade  with  tho  natives.  Amoiii;' 
those  he  noticed  some  strann-evs,  and  havino-  heard  that  tliev 
came  from  a  country  ruled  l)y  a  Tartar  khan,  who  resided  in 
a  capital  called  Sibir,  he  sent  some  of  his  people  into  their 
land.  These  ag'onts  returned  with  tho  Hnest  sable-skins, 
which  they  had  pin-chased  for  a  trifling  sum ;  and  Strogoiiotf, 
not  so  covetous  as  to  wish  to  koop  all  the  advantage  of  his 
discovery  to  himself,  immediately  informed  the  Government 
of  the  new  trade  he  had  opened.     He  was  rewarded  with 


f 


<(»\(/ri';>*T  <""  siiir.iMA. 


•J0.1 


id     tlir 

•t'  sul>- 
jtoNvcr- 

list  the 

II  yciirs 

Kliip- 

)iistiin- 

ol'   tlw 

..f  tlic 

(irainl 

ii.fo-ciic 
cly  Jiiul 
i.  *  Two 
J  Creels 
til  tlieii 

Ills   ellil- 

ltr<>(luce 

irbiirous 

l)y   «'ii- 

in   the 

red  the 

1   o-ladly 

liis  tlu' 

openetl 

Ittled    ill 

liiiine    ef 

•  b!nd<-; 


liii 


lev 


t  tl 
^ided  ill 
Ito  their 


»e-si\ 


111? 


roti'oiH) 


le  (> 


'riiiiu 


tt', 
{'  Lis 


■lit 


I  lie  yit't  »»r  (•onsideriii)le  estales  sit  the  conlhieiiee  of  the 
l\:iiiiii  siiid  Tsehinsov;!,  and  his  deseeiidiiiit.s,  the  ("mints 
S|n»;,'<»iH»fl',  are,  as  is  wrll  known,  reckoned  anu»ii;4;  <  he  richest 
>>\'  the  liiissian  nohility. 

Soon  after  Ivan  sent  some  troo|)s  to  Sihcria.  wliose  priiieo 
Jcdio'cr  ai'kn<.)\vh'dL;"ed  his  sn|»reinae\",  and  promised  to  pay 
him  an  animal  trihutc  of  a  thonsand  sah|(>-skins.  Ihit  this  con- 
nection was  not  of  lon;^'  dnration,  for  a  few  years  after  Jed i^-er 
\v;is(h'feated  hy  another  Tartar  [»rince,  named  Kntchnm  Khan; 
iiiid  thus,  after  Jinssian  inthieiice  had  taken  the  first  step  to 
cstahlisli  itself  l)eyt»nd  the  Ural,  it  once  more  hecnnie  donhtfnl 
wlicther  N(»rthorn  Asia  was  to  bo  Christian  or  Maliometiin. 
Tie  (jiiestion  was  soon  after  decided  by  a  tiij^itive  r(»bber. 

The  concpiests  of  Ivan  on  the  (*as[»ian  Sea  had  called  into 
lite  a  considerabli!  trade  with  Bokhara  and  Persia,  whiidi, 
however,  was    e-reatly  distnrbed  by  the  depredations  of  the 
Doll  Cossacks,  who  made    it  their  practice   to  plunder  the 
caravans.     ]}iit  Ivan,  not  the  man  to  be   trifled  with   by   a 
horde  of  freebooters,  immediately  sent  out  a  body  of  troo|>s 
against  the  Don  Cossacks,  who,  not  vontnrin^-  to  me'ct  them, 
snui>'ht  their  safety  in  lliyht.     At  the  head  of  the  fiijiitives, 
whose  number    amounted  to  no  k'ss   than  (5,000   men,  was 
N'ermak  Timodajetl^',  a  man  who,  like  Cortez  or  Pi/.arro,  was 
destined  to  lay  a  now  emi)iro  at  the  feet   of  his   master. 
Dili  while  the   troops  of  the  Czar  were  following'  his  track, 
Veriiiak  was  not  yet  dreamine^  of  future  conquests ;  his  ojdy 
aim  was  to  escape  the  executioner;  and  ho  considered  himstdf 
t'xtreiuely  fortunate  when,  leavin;^"  his  }»ursuers  far  behind,  he 
at  leiio'th  arrived  on  the  estates  of  Stro^onoff.      Hero  he  was 
Well  received — bettor,  no  doubt,  than  if  ho  had  come  siiie-lo- 
lianded  and  defenceless;   and  Strogouoff  haviii;;'  made  him 
;ic(niuintod  with  Siberian  atfairs,  ho  at  once  resolved  to  try 
his  fortunes  on  this  new  scone  of  action.     As  the  tyranny  of 
K'utchum  Khan  had  rendered  him  odious  t(»  his  sultjects,  he 
hoped  it  Avould  be  an  easy  task  to  overthrow  his  power;  the 
I'lMspect  of  a  rich  booty  of  sable-skins  was  also  extremely 
attractive  ;   and,  finally,  there  could  bo    no   doubt  that   the 
ureutcst  dang'ors  wore  in  his  rear,  and  that  any  choice  was 
iH'tterthan  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  J  van  the  Terrible.     Stro- 
aoiioff,  on  his  part,  had  excellent  reasons  for  eneouraoing-  the 


206 


TliK    I'OLAIt    WOnLD. 


lid  vent  live.  If  it  succeeded,  a  consideriilde  part  of  the  profits 
was  likely  to  iall  to  liis  sliare  ;  if  not,  he  at  least  was  rid  of 
his  inihiddeii  guest. 

Thus  Yeriuak,  in  the  suninii'r  of  1578,  advanced  Avith  his 
Cossacks  along  the  banks  of  the  Tschinsova  into  Siberiii. 
But,  either  from  a  want  of  knowledge  of  the  country,  or 
from  n<»t  having  taken  the  necessary  precautions,  ho  was 
overtaken  l)y  winter  before  he  could  nnike  any  progress;  and 
when  s^n-ing  a}»peared,  famine  conipelle<I  him  to  return  to 
his  old  quarters,  where,  as  may  easily  be  imagined,  his  re- 
ception was  none  of  the  most  cordiaL  But,  far  from  losing 
courage  from  this  first  disappointment,  Yermak  was  firmly 
resolved  to  persevere.  He  had  gained  experience — his  self- 
confidence  was  steeled  by  adversity  ;  and  when  Strogonoti' 
attempted  to  refuse  him  further  assistance,  he  pointed  to 
his  Cossacks,  with  the  air  of  a  man  who  has  the  means  of 
enforcing  obedience  to  his  orders.  This  time  Yermak  took 
better  measures  for  ensuring  success  ;  he  com])elled  8trog(»nolf 
to  furnish  him  with  an  ample  supply  of  ja'ovisions  and 
annnunition,  and  in  the  June  of  the  following  year,  we  again 
find  him,  Avith  his  faithful  Cossacks,  on  the  march  to  Siberia. 
But  such  were  the  impediments  which  the  pathless  SAvamps 
and  forests,  the  severity  of  tlie  climate,  and  the  hostility 
of  the  uatiA'es  opi)osed  to  his  progress,  that  toAvards  the 
end  of  1580,  his  force  (uoav  reduced  to  1 ,500  men)  had  reaclu'd 
no  farther  than  the  banks  of  the  Tara.  The  subsequent 
advance  of  this  little  band  Avas  a  ccnistiint  succession  f>f 
hardships  and  skirmishes,  Avhicli  caused  it  to  melt  away  like 
snoAV  in  the  sunshine  ;  so  that  scarcely  500  remained  Avlien,  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Tobol  and  the  Irtysch,  they  at  length 
reached  the  camp  of  Kutchum  Khan,  whose  overAvhelmiiig 
numbers  seemed  to  mock  their  audacity. 

But  Yermak  felt  as  little  fear  at  sight  of  the  innumeral)lc 
tents  of  the  Tartar  host,  as  the  Avolf  Avhen  meeting  a  herd  of 
sheep  ;  he  kncAV  that  his  Cossacks,  armed  Avith  their  matcli- 
h)cks,  had  long  since  disdahied  to  count  their  enemies,  and, 
fully  determined  to  conquer  or  to  die,  he  gaA^e  the  order  to 
attack.  A  drea<lful  battle  ensued,  for  though  the  Tartars 
only  fought  Avith  their  bows  and  arrows,  yet  they  Avere  no 
less  brave  than  their  adversaries,  and  their  vast  superiority 


IJATTLK    OK   TOBOLSK. 


20; 


■  prutits 
3  rid  of 

kith  his 
Siberiii . 
itry,   or 
he  was 
!ss ;  and 
'turn  to 
liis  ro- 
ll k)sin^' 
s  tirinly 
his  soll- 
n^ffoiioti' 
iuted  to 
iieaiis  of 
lak  took 
roo'oiiolf 
011s    and 
we  ao'ain 
Siberiii, 
SAvamjis 
hostility 
irds    tlic 
roaclu'd 
bsc(|uent 
ssiou  of 
way  Hk(> 
when,  iit 
it  U'lio-tli 
hohiiiuu' 

unerahle 
I  herd  of 
r  iiiatcli- 
iios,  and. 
order  to 
Tartars 
wero  no 
])eriority 


of  numbers  made  up  for  the  iiiferii^'quahty  of  their  weapons. 
I'lie  stnnjfo'le  was  h>no-  doubtful — thi'  Tartars  repeating 
attaek  upon  attack  like  the  waves  of  a  storm-tide,  and  the 
('ossaeks  receiving-  their  assaults  as  firmly  and  immoveably 
IIS  rocks  ;  until,  linallv,  the  liordes  of  Kutchnm  Khan  o-ave 
wiiy  to  their  stubborn  ol)stinacy,  and  his  eainp  and  all  its 
treasures  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  conquerors. 

The  sul)S(Hiuent  conduct  of  Yermak  proved  that  he  had 
nil  the  qualities  of  a  o-oneral  and  a  statesman,  and  that  his 
talents  were  not  unequal  to  his  fortunes.  Witliout  losing-  a 
sin'^'le  moment,  he,  immediately  after  this  decisive  battle,  sent 
{nivt  (if  his  small  Ijand  to  occupy  the  capital  of  the  vanquished 
K'utchum,  for  he  well  knew  that  a  victory  is  but  half-o-ained 
if  one  delays  to  reap  its  fruits.  The  Cossacks  fomid  the 
].la((>  evacuated,  and  soon  after  Yermak  made  his  triumphal 
entry  into  Sibir.  His  Aveakness  now  became  a  source  of 
stri'ii^th,  for,  daunted  bv  the  wonderful  suec(>ss  of  this  hand- 
till  (if  straii<»vrs,  the  people  far  and  wide  cam(>  to  render  him 
lioiua^'o.  The  Ostjaks  of  the  Soswa  freely  consented  to 
yield  an  annual  tribute  of  280  sable-skins,  and  other  tiibes 
t  r  tlit^  same  riiition,  who  were  more  backward  in  t'.ieir  sub- 
iiiissidii,  were  compelled  by  his  menaces  to  pay  him  a  tax  or 
/'<.s>v//,-  (_)f  eleven  skins  for  every  archer. 

It  was  not  without  reason  that  Yermak  thus  souy-ht  to 
collect  as  many  of  these  valuable  furs  as  he  possibly  could, 
till'  his  aim  was  to  obtain  from  Ivan  a  pardon  of  his  former 
drliiiquencies,  by  ])resentint;'  him  with  the  richest  spoils  oi' 
liis  victories,  and  he  well  knew  that  it  Avould  be  impossibh^ 
f'nr  him  to  maintain  his  conquests  without  further  assistance 
t'ldni  the  i'/MV.  (Jreat  was  Ivan's  astonishment  when  an 
•  iivoy  of  the  fu<^'itive  rol»ber  brouf>ht  him  the  welconu' <;'ift  of 
-.100  salde-skius,  and  informed  him  that  Yermak  had  added 
a  iit'w  province  to  his  realm.  He  at  once  ((iiiqu^diciided  that 
till'  hero  who  Avith  small  m(Mns  had  achievtMl  such  f^'i-cnt 
successes,  Avas  the  fittest  man  to  consolidate  or  enlarg'o  his 
ac(|uisitions  ;  he  consequently  not  only  pardoned  all  his  former 
olVrucv's,  but  confirmed  him  in  the  dij^iiity  of  g'overnor  and 
'•nimiiander-in-chief  in  the  countries  Avhich  he  had  subdued. 
rinis  Yermak's  envoy,  havino-  bei^n  received  Avith  the  o-rcat- 
'•■-1  distinction   at   Moscow,  returned   (o  his   fortunate  inastei- 


Mi 


208 


THE   POLAR   WOULD. 


with  a  rol)e  oflionour  Avhieli  liatl  been  woini  by  the  0/ar  him- 
self, and  the  still  iiion;  welcome  iiitelliyeiiee  that  reiiitoive- 
ineiits  w^ere  ou  the  march  to  join  him. 

Meanwhile  Yermak  had  continued  to  advance  into  the 
valley  of  tlie  ( )l)i  beyond  its  conllnence  with  the  Irtysch  ;  uinl 
when  at  len«4'th  his  force  was  an<^-mente(l  by  the  arrival  of 
oOO  Russians,  he  pursued  his  expeditions  with  increasinj^' 
audacity.  On  his  return  from  one  of  these  forays,  he  en- 
camped on  a  small  island  in  the  Irtysch.  The  nig-ht  was 
dark  and  rainy,  and  the  llussians,  fatigued  by  their  march, 
relied  too  much  upon  the  badness  of  the  weather  or  the  terror 
of  their  name,  lint  Kutchum  Khan,  having  been  informed 
by  his  spies  of  their  Avant  of  vigilance,  crossed  a  ford  in  the 
river,  and  falb'ng  upon  the  unsuspecting  Russians,  killed 
them  all  except  one  single  soldier,  who  brought  the  fatal 
intelliti'ence  to  Sibir.  Yermak,  when  he  saw  his  warriors 
fall  around  him  like  grass  before  the  scythe,  with(jut  losiiii; 
his  presence  of  mind  for  a  moment,  cut  his  Avay  through 
the  Tartars,  and  endeavoured  to  save  himself  in  a  boat.  But 
in  the  medley  he  fell  into  the  water  and  was  drt>wned. 

By  the  orders  of  Kutchum,  the  body  of  the  hero  was 
exposed  to  every  indignity  wdiich  the  rage  of  a  barl)arian 
can  think  of;  but  after  this  first  explosion  of  impotent  furv, 
his  followers,  feeling  ashamed  of  the  ignoble  conduct  of  their 
chief,  buried  his  remains  with  princely  pomp,  and  ascribed 
miraculous  powers  to  the  grave  in  which  they  were  de})osited. 
The  Russians  have  also  erected  a.  monument  to  Yermak  in 
the  town  of  Tobolsk,  which  was  built  on  the  very  spot  where 
he  gained  his  first  decisive  victory  over  Kutchum.  It  is 
inscribed  with  the  dates  of  that  memorable  event,  and  of  the 
unfin'tnnate  day  when  he  found  his  death  in  the  floods  ef 
the  Irtysch.  His  real  monument,  however,  is  all  Siberia 
from  the  Ural  to  the  Pacific  ;  for  as  long  as  the  Rnssiau 
nation  continues  to  exist,  it  will  remember  the  name  <it' 
Yermak  Timodajeff.  The  value  of  the  man  became  ai 
onc3  apparent  after  his  deatli,  for  scarcely  had  the  news  dt 
the  disaster  arrivt'd,  Avhi'u  the  Russians  immediately  evacu- 
ated Sibir,  and  left  the  country.  But  they  well  knew  that 
this  retreat  was  to  be  but  temporary,  and  that  the  present 
ebb  of  their  fortunes  would  soon  be  followed  bv  a  fresh  tide 


IIISSIAN    ADVAXCK.S    IX    SIliKUlA. 


209 


XY  liiui- 
iuUdvo- 

utu  till- 
^\i;  ami 
rival  of 
•ivasiiii:' 
ho  en- 
4'lit  AN  as 

•  lUUl'Cll. 

tie  terror 
nforined 
1  in  til.' 
s,  kilU-.l 
tlio  fatal 

warriors 
it  los'w'A 

tliroui^'li 
lat.     But 

0(1. 

loro  was 
jarbariau 
out  t'urv, 
t  of  tlieir 
ascrilxMl 

('JH)sitOil. 

ormali  in 
-ot  wliori' 
u.     It  is 
ml  of  till' 
floods   of 
1   8il)oria 
Russian 
uaino   of 
'oamo   at 
.   news  ot 
Iv  ovaiMi- 


Inow 

pr 

Irosli 


tlait 

t 'SCI  it 


ti. 


of  snec'oss.  After  a  few  years  tlioy  once  more  r  'tiinioil,  as 
the  (letinitivo  masters  of  tlie  country.  Their  fii'st  settloineut 
WHS  Tjumen,  on  the  Tarn,  aud before  theeudof  l')S7  Tobolsk 
was  I'ouuded.  They  liad,  indeed,  still  mauy  a  eoufliet  with 
the  Woo'uls  aud  Tartars,  l)ut  every  effort  of  the  natives  to 
sl)ake  off  the  yoke  proved  fruitless. 

As  <>;old  had  l>een  the  all-powerful  majjfuot  which   led  the 
S^paniards  from  Hispaniola  to  Mexico  and  Peru,  so  a  small 
tur-beariu;^  animal  (the  sable)  attract<'d  the  Cossacks  farther 
ainl  farther  to  the  oast ;  and  althou<i;h  the  possession  <»f  fire- 
arms <^'avo  them   an   immense  advantage  ovi'r   the   wild   in- 
lialiitants  of  Siberia,  yet  it  is  astonishin<c  with  what  trillin<x 
nil. I  US   they    subdued    whole   nations,   aud    ]ierhaps  history 
affords  no  other  example  of  such  a  vast  extent  of  territory 
lia\iuuf  boon  conquered  l)y  so  small  a  number  of  adventurers. 
As   (hey  advanced,  small  wooden   forts   (or   o.s/rof/.s-)    were 
l»ni!t  in  suitable  places,  aud  became  in  their  turn  the  startin<,'- 
|.ii>ls   for    new  expeditions.     The   followin<i'   dates  g-iv(^  the 
lirst  proof  of  the  uncommon  rapi<lity  with  which  the  tide  of 
(■(iiniuest  rolled  onwards   to  tJu'  oast.     Tomsk  was  foundiHl 
in   l(5n|. ;    and  the   ostroi^  Jeniseisk,   where  the  nei^hbotu-- 
in.;-  nomads  brou<i;ht  their  sable-skins  to  nuirket,  in   l(i21. 
T!ic    snow-shoes    of    the   Tun^'uso,    which    they    sometinu'S 
-aw  ornamented  with  this  costly  fur,  iiuluced  the  Cossacks 
t'l  fullow  tiieir  hordes,  of  which  nuiuv  had  come  from  the 
niiildle  and  inferior  Tuuf^uska.  and  thus,  in  1(5;>0,  Wassiljew 
iva(li('(l  the  banks  of  the  Lena.      Ju  l()o(),  Jelissei  Busa  was 
••'iiHuiissioned  to  asc<'n<l  that    miLi'hty   river,  and   to   impose 
j'!.<^iik  on  all  the  natives  of  those  (piarters.      lie  reached  tln^ 
wi'^tiTu  mouth  of  the  Lena,  anil  after  navi'^'atin;^'  the  sea  for 
1  u.nty-four  hoiu'S  came  to  the  ( )lekma,  which  he  ascended. 
In  liI-lS  he  discovere«l  the  Tana,  on  whose  hanks  he  spent  an- 
iitlicr  winter:  and  in  Id:)!'.  resuniiuL;'  his  voyau'e  eastward  by 
S''a.  lie  reacheil  the  Tclu-ndoma.  and  wintoriuo'  f'oi-  two  years 
anionu"  the  ,Iid\ahirs,  nia<le  them  also  tributary  to  Kussia. 

Ill  that  same  year  another  party  of  Cossacks  crossed  the 
Altai  Mountains,  and,  traversing-  forests  and  swamps,  arrived 
:ii  till.'  coasts  of  the  inhos[)itablo  Sea  of  (.)chotsk  ;  while  a 
third  expedition  disc<n-ered  the  Amui-,  and  built  a,  stronj;| 
"-iioLi',  called   Albasin.  on   its  left   bank.       'JMie    re]if>rt    soon 

1' 


'210 


TJIK   ruLAIt    WORLD. 


spreiul  tliiit  Ihc  vivcr  rolled  over  i^-old-saiid,  aiul  colonists 
ciiiiie  lloekiiij4'  to  the  s[)ot,  both  to  collect  tliest.'  treiisures,  aii<l 
to  enjoy  tlie  fruits  of  ii  milder  climate  and  of  a  more  fruil- 
fnl  soil.  JUit  the  Chinese  destroyed  the  fort  in  1(180,  and 
carried  the  ^-arrison  prisoners  to  Peking". 

Alhasin  was  soon  after  rebuilt;  but  as  Russia  at  that  time 
had  MO  inclination  to  en^'a^H!  in  constant  (quarrels  with  tlic 
Celestial  Empire  about  the  possession  of  a  remote  desert,  all  its 
pretensions  to  the  Amur  were  <4'iven  up  by  the  treaty  of  Nert- 
schinslv  (1()81)).  This  aj^Teement,  however,  like  so  many  others, 
was    doomed  to  last  no  lon<>'er  than  it    pleased    the    more 
powerful  of  the  contractino-  parties  to  keep  it,  and  came  to 
nothin;^-    as   soon    as  the  possession  vi'  the  Amur  territory 
became  an  object  of  importance,  and  the  iucreasin<4' weakness 
of  China  was  no  lonj^vr  able  to  dispute  its  possession.     Thus, 
when  Count   Nicholas  Mourawietf  was  appointed  CJovernor- 
Ceneral  of  Eastern  Siberia  in  1817,  one  of  his  first  cares  was 
to  a[>piopriate  or  annex  the  Amur.     He  immediately  sent  ii 
surveying-  expedition  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  where,  in  18-')  1 . 
regardless  of  the  remonstrances  of  the  Chinese  Goverinnent, 
he  ordered  the  stations  of  Nikolajewsk  and  Mariinsk  to  ln' 
built;  and  in  185  the  himself  sailed  down  the  Amur,  wit  li 
a  numerous  flotilla  of  boats  and  rafts,  for  ^he  purpose  of 
personally  opening  this  new  channel  of  intercourse  with  tlic 
Pacitic.     Other  expeditions  soon  followed,  and  the  Chinese, 
finding  resistance  hopeless,  ceded  to  Russia  in  the  year  18-')S, 
by  the  treaty  of  Aigun,  the  left  bank  of  the  Amur  as  far  as 
the  influx  of  the  Ussuri,  and  both  its  banks  below  the  latter 
river.  Thus  the  Czar  found  some  consolation  for  the  losses  of 
the  (*rimean  campaign  in  the  acquisition  of  a  vast  territory 
in  the  distant  East,  which,  though  at  present  a  mere  wikkr- 
ness,  may  in  time  become  a  flourishing  colonv. 

In  l(!ll,  a  few  years  after  the  discovery  of  the  Amur,  thi' 
Cossack  Michael  Staduchin  formed  a  winter  establishment 
on  the  delta- of  the  Kolyma,  which  has  since  expanded  \u\o 
the  town  of  Nishnei-Ivolynisk,  and  afterwards  navigated  tin' 
sea  eastward  to  Cape  tSchelagskoi,  which  may  be  considered 
as  the  north-eastern  cape  of  Siberia. 

In  1()I8  Semen  Deschnew  sailed  from  the  Kolyma  with  tho 
intention  of  reaching  tlie  Anadyr  by  sea,  and  bv  this  reniark- 


' 


ible  vova^c 


\v 


hieh   no  one  else,  either  l.iefore  or  alter  him. 


yiUJlGATlON    oV    KAMT.SCJIATKA. 


211 


)lonis1s 
OS,  and 
e  frviil- 
^0,  autl 

•at  time 
■ith  ill"' 
•t,  all  its 

.)f  Novt- 
^-  others, 
le    more 
eamc  i«> 
territory 
^•oaknoss 
.     Thus, 
overn<»r- 
ares  was 
lY  sent  ii 
,  in  IS") I, 
.n'uuK'ut, 
sk   to   he 
mr,  Avitli 
iirpose  "f 
with  tlu' 
C'hinosc, 
'AY  18.')S, 
as  far  as 
u!  latlrr 
h)sses  of 
terriiuvy 
;o  AviUh  r- 

niur,  till' 
llishiucnl 

idoil  ii>t'* 
UitoA  tl\'' 
i)nsidorct.l 

with  the 

In.'i-  iii'ii- 


lias  over  perfVn'iiKMl — J/firoran'^J  nud  piisso<l  throno-U  the  strait, 
Avhieh  properly  should  bear  his  iiauie,  instead  of  Behriii^-'s, 
who,  sailiiii''  from  Kauitsehatka  iKjrtluvards  in  1  72s',  did  not  ^'o 
Ix'vond  East  Ca[)e,  Ix'inn"  satisfied  with  the  westerly  trending- 
of  the  cape  beyond  the  i)roniontory.  Some  of  Desehnew'.s  coiu- 
]piiiiions  subsequently  reached  Kauitsehatka,  and  were  put  to 
di-atli  by  the  peoph.' of  that  peninsula,  which  was  eonqiiered,  in 
](;;>!>,  by  Atlassotf,  a  Cossack  otHcer  who  came  from  Jakutsk. 

After  havin;Li-  thus  rapitlly  j^'lanced  at  the  jiroj^'ress  of  the 
J^tissian  dominion  from  the  I'ral  to  the  Sea  of  Ochotsk,  it 
may  not  be  luiinterestiuL;'  to  infjuire  whether  the  natives  had 
reason  to  Idess  the  arrival  of  their  new  masters,  or  to  curse 
the  day  when  they  were  first  mad(>  to  understand  the  meanin*;- 
of  the  word  i/dssiil-ov  tribute.  Unfortunately,  history  t(dls  us 
tlial,  wliih'  the  conquerors  of  Siberia  were  fully  as  bold  and 
])ri'severini;-  as  the  companions  of  Cortez  and  Pi/arro,  they 
al.-o  r(]ualled  them  in  avarice  and  cruelty.  Under  their  iron 
yolvc  whole  r.ations,  such  as  the  Schelat'-i,  Aniujili,  and  Omoki, 
nulled  away;  others,  as  the  Wog'uls,  Jukahires,  Kttriaks, 
and  ftiilinenes,  were  reduced  to  a  scant}'  remnant. 

The  history  of  the  subjui^-ation  of  the  Itiilmenes,  oriuitives 
"f  Kamtschatka,  as  described  by  Steller,  may  sufftco  to  show 
1)1  i\v  the  Cossacks  made  and  lu)w  they  abused  their  conquests. 

When  Atlassoff,  with  i>nly  sixteen  men,  came  to  the 
river  of  Kamtschatka,  the  Itiilmene  chieftain  inquired, 
tlir.iu^'h  a  Koriak  intcn'preter,  Avhat  they  wanted,  and  whence 
tiny  came;  and  receivcMl  for  answer,  that  the  powerful 
snvcrcii^-n,  to  whom  the  Avhole  land  belon<i'ed,  had  sent  them 
til  Ii'vy  the  trilmte  Avhich  they  owed  him  as  his  snbjccts. 
The  chieftain  was  naturally  astonished  at  this  information, 
and  offi'riny-  the  strang'crs  a  present  of  costly  furs,  he  rc- 
•  lUi'sted  them  to  leave  the  country,  and  not  to  repeat  their 


vi<it.      But   the    Cossacks  i 


lit    i>ro]ter  to  remain,    and 


huilt  a  small  wooden  fort,  Verchnei  Ostro;^',  whence  they 
till  on  the  nein-libouriny  villay,'es,  robbino-  or  destroying'  all 
tlii'v   could    lay    hands    upon.      Exasperated  by   these   acts 


[liil 


nienes  resolved  to  attack  the  fort  ;  but  as  tl 


i(>  Avary 


'•'ssacks  hiid  Icept   up  a   friendly  intercourse  with   some  of 
'li''iii.   and    had    moreover   iny'raliated   thfniseh'c 


w 


Ith    th 


»f  tl 


\\|'iiHii.  Ilic  plans  of  Jhen-  enemies  were   always   revca 


led  tl 


l>  2 


212 


TIIK    r01,AR    WOULD. 


them  in  proper  time,  and  led  tci  a  still  greater  tyranny. 
At  leng'tli  the  savaj^-es  appeared  before  the  ostro;:^  in  sncli 
overwhelming-  nnmbors,  that  the  (^ossacks  began  to  losf 
courage;  yt  by  their  superior  taetien  they  finally  managnl 
to  gain  a  complete  victory,  and  those  Avho  escaped  their 
bullets  were  either  drowned  or  taken  prisoners,  and  then  put 
to  death  in  the  most  cruel  manner. 

Convinced  that  a  lasting  security  was  impossible  as  long 
as  the  natives  retained  their  numbers,  the  Cossacks  lost  im 
opportnnity  of  goading  them  to  revolt,  and  then  butchering 
as  many  of  them  as  tliey  could.  Thus,  in  less  than  forty 
years,  the  Kamtsehatkans  were  reduced  to  a  twelfth  part  of 
their  original  numbers:  and  the  C<jssacks,  having  made  a 
solitude,  called  it  peace. 

In  former  times,  the  nomads  of  the  North  used  freely 
to  wander  with  their  reindeer  herds  over  the  tundra,  bnt 
after  the  conquest  they  were  loaded  with  taxes,  and  continnl 
to  certain  districts.  The  consecpience  was  that  their  rein- 
doer  gradually  pei  ished,  and  that  a  great  number  of  Avanderinu' 
herdsmen  were  now  conq  elled  to  adopt  a  lisherman's  lil'e- 
a  change  fatal  to  many. 

It  would,  however,  be  nnjust  to  accuse  the  Russian  (Toveni- 
ment  of  having  wilfully  sought  the  ruin  of  the  aborigine! 
tribes  ;  on  the  contrary,  it  has  constantly  endeavoured  t<> 
protect  them  against  the  exactions  of  the  Cossacks,  and.  in 
order  to  secure  their  existence,  has  even  granted  them  tin? 
exclusive  possession  of  the  districts  assigned  to  them.  Tims 
the  Ostjaks  and  Samojedes,  the  Koriaks  and  the  Jaknt>. 
have  their  own  land,  their  own  rhers,  forests,  and  tin  dii. 
But  if  it  is  a  common  saying  in  European  Russia,  'tli;it 
heaven  is  high,  and  the  C*zar  distant,"  it  may  easily  Ik' 
imagined  that  bevond  the  Ural  the  weak  indiyvnous  tiilns 
found  the  law  but  a  very  inetUeieut  l)arrier  against  tli" 
rapacity  of  their  conquerors. 

Thus,  in  s[)ite  of  the  (lOvernnuMit,  the  i/n.^snk  was  iini 
unfrequently  raised,  nnder  various  pretences,  to  six  or  ten 
times  its  origiu.il  amount ;  and  the  natives  were,  besides, 
obliged  to  bring  the  best  of  their  produce,  from  consideralil'' 
distances,  to  the  ostrog. 

Nor  could  the  Governmeni  prevent  the  accumulation  I't 
usurious  debts,  nor  the  leasing  of  the  best  jiasturages  or  fisli- 


RUSSIAN    SClKNTiriC    KXPKDITIOXS 


'213 


vrnnnv. 
in  sucli 
to  lost' 
v.inugfil 
hI  tlic'ii" 
:lien  put 

as  louji 

lost    11" 

itclii'i-iiiLi- 
laii  forty 
\\  part  <'f 
;  uunU'  a 

ic'd  fnn'ly 
ulva,   but 

I  coutiut'il 
iieir  n-iii- 
vantlL'riu<i' 
m's  lite— • 

II  ({ovevu- 
iV>ori^'iiKil 

VOUVO'l   ti> 

s,  anA,  in 
tlu'iu  tli<' 
ui.     Tl.us 
(•   Jal<ut>. 
,1(1  tui'lvi. 
Isia,  'that 
1  easily   1"' 
i.us  ti'i'"'^ 
taiiist   th" 

was   i\i'i 
iix  or  ten 


hesiilt's, 
IcvaVa. 


iisu 


In 


lation 


Ics  or 


iiiu'-f^tations  for  a  triflin<jf  sum  quite  out  of  proportion  to  their 
value;  so  that  the  natives  noloni^cr  had  the  means  of  feetlint; 
their  herds,  and  sank  deeper  and  deeper  into  poverty. 

And  if  we  consider,  finally,  of  what  elements  Yerniak's 
baud  was  ori^'inally  composed,  wo  can  easily  conceive  that, 
under  such  masters,  the  lot  of  the  Siberian  natives  was  by 
Jill  means  to  be  envied. 

The  year  178  !•  opens  a  new  epoch  in  the  history  of  Silieriau 
discoveries.  Until  then  they  had  been  merely  undertaken 
lur  pcU'poses  of  tratlie:  bold  Cossacks  and  Promyschlenniki 
lor  fur-hunters)  had  ^n-adually  extended  their  excursions  to 
ill'  8ea  of  BehriuLi' ;  Imt  noAV,  for  the  tirst  time,  scientific 
expeditions  were  sent  out,  for  the  more  accurate  investig'a- 
ti'iii  of  the  northern  coasts  of  Siberia. 

Prontschischtschew,  who  sailed  westwards  from  the  Lena 
to  circumnavigate  the  icy  capes  of  Taimui-laud,  was  accom- 
]iaiii('d  by  his  y<juthful  wife,  who  wintered  with  him  at  the 
Olenek,  in  72^  of/  of  latitude,  and  in  the  following  summer 
tiMik  ]»art  in  his  fruitless  endeavours  to  double  those  most 
iiorthevnly  points  of  Asia,  lie  died  in  ecuisecpienee  of  the 
t'litigues  he  had  to  undergo,  and  a  tew  days  after  she  followed 
liiui  to  the  grave.  A  similar  exam})le  of  female  devotion  is 
)iot  to  be  met  with  in  the  annais  of  Arctic  discovery. 

After  Prontschischtschew *s  d(>ath.  Lieutenant  Chariton 
l;;i[itew  was  appoint<'d  to  carry  out  tli<'  project  in  whi<di  the 
i'uiiier  had  failed.  Having  Ikmmi  repulsed  by  tln^  drift-ice, 
lie  was  oldiged  to  winter  on  th(»  ("hatauga  (17;!!)-I0)  ;  l)ut  re- 
newed the  attempt  in  the  following  sunimei-,  which  however 
ex])osed  him  to  still  severer  trials.  The  vessel  was  wrecked 
in  the  ice  ;  the  crew  reached  the  shore  with  ditticultv,  and 
liiiiuy  of  them  perished,  from  fatigue  and  fainint\  before  the 
rivers  were  sufficiently  frozen  to  enable  the  feelde  survi- 
vors to  return  to  their  former  winter-station  at  Cliatanga. 
Notwithstanding  the  hardships  which  he  antl  his  party  had 
endured,  Laptew  prosecuted  the  survey  of  the  promontory  in 
the  following  spring. 

'"netting  out  with  a  sledge-party  across  tlu>  tundra  on 
A^iril  21,  1711,  he  reached  Taimur  Lake  on  the  Moth; 
iiiul  following  the  Taimur  river,  as  it  flows  from  the  lake, 
ascertained  its  mouth  to  be  situated  in  Int.  75°  .'>r)'  N.     On 


•J  1 4 


TIIH    1'(>LAI{    WOIMJ). 


Aiio'u.st  21),  lie  Siifely  roturnod  to  Jeiii;U'islc,  iift<'i'  ono 
of  the  most  dilHcult  voyugvs  ever  pertovim'd  l»y  iiiiui.  The 
resolution  with  which  he  overciime  ditticiiities,  and  his  i)er- 
S(n'(,'riiuc'o  ;unid  Iht;  severest  distresses,  entitle  hini  to  a  hi^li 
rank  anion*^'  Aretie  discoverers. 

While  Chariton  Laptew  was  thus  o-aininy  distinction  in 
the  wilds  of  Taimurland,  his  brother,  Diniitri  Laptew,  Avas 
busy  extending'  f^'eoyTaphical  Icuowledye  to  the  east  of  the 
Lena.,  lie  (h)ubled  the  l-^i'iiifdl-iioss,  wintered  t»n  the  banks 
of  the  Indi^irka,  surveyed  the  Bear  Islands,  passed  a  second 
Avinter  on  the  borders  of  the  Kcdynia;  and  in  a  fourth 
season  extended  his  survey  of  the  coast  to  the  Baranow  Rock, 
wliich  he  vaiidy  endeavoured  to  double  during'  two  successive 
summers.  After  havin<j;'  passed  seven  years  on  the  coasts  ol" 
the  Polar  (Jcean,  he  returned  to  Jakutsk  in  1  7  I-). 

Fourteen  years  later,  Schalanr(»w,  a  merchant  of  Jakutsk, 
Avho  sailed  fnnn  the  Jana  in  a,  vessel  built  at  his  own  expense. 
at  length  succeeded  in  (h>ubling"  the  Baranow  Rock,  and  pm- 
CJeded  eastwards  as  far  as  Cape  ychela;4sk(»i,  which  prevented 
his  farthei"  prog'ress.  After  twice  wintering-  on  the  dreary 
Kolyma,  he  resolved,  with  admirable  perseverance,  to  make  a 
third  attempt,  but  his  crew  woidd  no  longer  follow  him. 
From  a  second  sea-journey,  Avliich  he  undertook  in  1701  to 
that  cape,  he  did  not  return.  '  His  unfortunate  death  is  the 
more  to  be  himented,'  says  Wrangell,  'as  he  sacriticed  liis 
property  and  life  to  a  disinterested  aim,  and  united  intelli- 
gence and  energy  in  a  remarkable  degree.'  ( )n  his  map,  the 
whole  coast  from  the  Jana  to  Ca[ie  Schelagskoi  is  markeil, 
Avith  an  accuracy  Avhich  does  him  the  greatest  honom-.  Jii 
1785,  Billings  and  .Sarytchew  Avere  equally  unsuccessful  in 
the  endeavour  to  sail  round  the  cape  Avhich  had  defeated  all 
SchalauroAv's  endeavours  ;  nor  has  the  voyage  been  accom- 
plished to  the  present  day. 

As  the  sable  had  gradually  led  the  Russian  fur-hunters 
to  Kamtschatka,  so  the  still  more  valnalde  sea-otter  gave 
the  chief  impulse  to  the  discovery  of  the  Aleutic  chain  and 
the  oi)i)osite  continent  of  America.  When  AtlassoAV  and  his 
band  arrived  at  ICamtschatka  by  the  end  of  the  seven- 
teenth ceiitui'},  tiiey  found  tlie  sea-ol(ep  abounding  oj'  its 
coasts  ;  1)ut  the  f'ni'-hunters  chased  it  so  eagerly  that,  before 
the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  centurv,  tlicv  had  entirelv  extir- 


TMSCOVKUIKS    OF    FJISSI AN    XAVKiATORS. 


il.j 


>r    one 
.     The 

lis    JHT- 

I  a  hiL^'li 
•tioii   ill 

iW,    AVils 

:  ul'  til.' 
e  bunks 

I  SOCOlltl 

I   fovivtli 

iccossivc 
coasts  of 

Jakutsk, 

OXpOllSt'. 

and  i>i'<'- 
)re  vented 
le  dreary 
)  make  a 
(iw  liini. 
17()1  io 
itli  istlic 
itieed  liis 
d  intelli- 
nitip,  tlie 
nuirkeil, 
lour.     In 
cssful  in 
feated  all 
1  accoia- 

•-liunters 
ter  •j.'avc 
liaiii  aiul 
V  and  his 

>  sevrii- 
<_)•  ( )  1 1  its 
Lt,  before 
dv  extir- 


pated it  in  iliat  eountry.  On  ]jehrin<;-'s  second  voya^'e  of 
discovery  (1711-12),  it  was  apiin  found  in  considerable 
iiiiinhers.  Tschiri^'ow  is  said  b»  have  brouj^lit  ba(dv  1H»0 
skins,  and  on  Behriny-'s  Island  7O0  sea-otters — wliose  skins, 
accoi-dinij;-  to  present  prices,  would  bo  worth  about  2(),('00/. 
— were  killed  almost  Avithout  troubk'.  Thest^  facts,  of  c(»nrs(\ 
ciicouraLi'ed  the  merchants  of  Jakulsk  and  Frkutsk  io  under- 
tiike  new  exi)editions. 

(Jenerally,  several  of  them  formed  an  association,  wlii(di 
littc<l  out  some  hardlv  seaworthy  vessel  at  Ocliotslc,  whore 
also  the  captain  and  the  crow,  consistin^•  of  fnr-huntei-s  and 
other  adventurers,  were  hin.'d.  The  expenses  of  such  an  ex- 
(ifdition  amounted  to  the  considerable  snm  of  about  oO,()U() 
r(iid>les,  as  p)ack-horses  had  to  trauspoi't  a  <4'reat  part  (»f  the 
necessary  outfit  all  the  distance  from  Jakutsk,  and  the 
vessel  ^•enerally  remained  four  or  five  years  on  the  voyay'e. 
Passing'  throne-h  one  of  the  iCurih'  Straits,  these  ex}»editions 
saih^l  at  first  alon*"-  the  east  cf>ast  of  Kamtschatka,  harterinn' 
saltles  and  sea-otters  for  reindeer-skins  and  otlier  articles; 
ami  as  the  ])recious  furs  1>ecame  more  rare,  ventunHl  out 
farther  into  the  Eastern  Ocean.  Thus  ]\ficha«d  Nowodsikoft' 
discovered  the  Western  Aleuts  in  17I-'):  Paikoff  the  Fox 
isla licks  in  1  7-'>0  ;  Acb'ian  Tolsfych  almost  all  the  islands  of 
the  central  i^roup,  wlii(di  still  bear  his  name,  in  I7<10; 
Ste[dien  (jllottoff  the  island  of  Kadialc  in  1  7<!-5.  and  Ivrenit/in 
the  peninsula  of  Aljaska  in  17(58.  When  we  consich'r  the 
sianty  resources  of  these  liussian  navie-ators,  the  bad  con- 
dition of  their  miserable  barks,  their  own  imperfect  nautu'al 
Kiinwledn'e,  and  the  inhospitalde  nature  of  tln^  seas  which 
till  y  traversed,  we  cannot  but  acbnire  th(Mr  intrepidity. 

1 11 1  he  Polar  Sea  there  are  neither  sables  U(  a*  otters,  and  thus 
ilie  islands  lying  to  the  north  of  Siberia  might  have  remained 
iiiikiiowu  till  the  present  day,  if  the  search  after  maiimioth- 
teetli  had  not,  in  a  similar  mainiei-,  led  to  their  discoverv. 

Ill  March  1770,  while  a  merchant  of  the  name  of  rjiichow 
was  busy  collecting  fossil  ivory  about  Capo  Svatoinoss,  he  saw 
!i  large  herd  of  deer  coming  over  the  ice  from  the  north. 

I'esolute  find  courageous,  he  at  once  resolved  to  follow 
tlit'ir  tracks,  and  after  a  sledge-j<uirney  of  seventy  versts,  he 
'■auie  to  nn  island,  and  twenty  versts  fui'ther  reached  a 
^•'I'fiiid   island,  at  whiidi,  owing  to  the  roughness  ol"  the  ice, 


21G 


TIIK    I'ULAR    WOULD. 


liis  excursion  tt'riniiiiitt'd.  Ho  Sfiw  ouono-h,  lunvovor,  of  the 
ricIiMcss  of  tilt'  two  ishmds  in  numiinotli-tct'tli,  to  show  liini 
tliiif  iinollit'i-  visit  woiiM  be  n  valimblc  siK'('nliiti(tn  ;  tnnl  on 
ni.iKiiiy-  his  i-cpovj  to  t lie  linssiun  ( iovcrnnicnt,  ht'obtuincd  iin 
«'X('insiv('  privilcLT!'  to  d'v^  tor  niiininioth-hont'S  on  thu  islands 
wliich  lit'  had  disrovcn'tl,  and  t(»  \vhi(di  his  name  has  been 
•^ivcn.  [n  the  sunniu'i"  of  l77o  hf  consiMjncntly  rctiivncd. 
ami  asct'i'taiiu'd  the  existence  of  a  ihird  island,  iniudi  lar;;;er 
than  the  otla-rs,  nioinitainous,  ami  liavinL"-  its  coasts  covei'ed 
with  di'il't W(»od.  He  then  went  Ijaidc  to  tin'  tirst  island, 
wintered  there,  and  retiu'ned  to  Tstjansk  in  sprinj^-,  witli  ;i 
vahiiihle  cartel*  <»t' niannnolli  tnsks. 

There  hardly  exists  a  more  remarkahle  article  «tf  coni- 
niorce  than  these  remains  ot  an  extinct  animal.  In  North 
Siberia,  alonij,"  the  Obi,  the  Jenisei,  the  Lena,  and  their 
tributaries,  from  lai.  A.S"  to  70^,  <_»r  aloni;'  tlu'  shores  of  the 
Polar  Ocean  as  far  as  the  American  side  of  B(dirinm'  Strait,  the 
remains  of  a  species  of  elephant  ai'e  found  ind)edded  in  the 
frozen  soil,  or  beconio  exposed,  by  the  annual  tluiwino-  mid 
crund-)lin<_i'  of  the  riwr-banks.  Dozens  of  tnsks  are  fre- 
quently found  too'ether,  but  the  most  astonishin;^'  de2)o>it 
of  mammoth-bon(^s  occurs  in  the  liiichow  IshiUids,  where,  in 
some  localities,  they  are  accumulated  in  such  quantities  us 
to  form  the  (diief  substance  of  the  soil.  Year  after  year  tlic 
tusk-hunters  work  every  summer  at  the  clilfs,  witliout  ])r('- 
ducint^*  any  sensible  diminution  of  the  stock.  The  solidly- 
frozen  matrix,  in  which  the  l)ones  lie,  thaws  to  a  certain 
extent  annually,  allowing-  the  tnsks  to  drop  out,  or  to  lie 
quarried.  In  1821,  20,000  lbs.  of  fossil  ivory  were  procuivd 
from  the  island  of  New  Siberia. 

The  ice  in  which  the  mammoth  remains  are  indjiMldcd 
souK'times  preserves  their  entire  bodies,  in  spite  of  llu' 
countless  aj^vs  which  mnst  have  ela}»sed  since  they  walked  on 
earth.  In  1700  the  carcase  t)f  a  maninioth  was  discovereil. 
so  fresh  that  the  do«4-s  ate  the  flesh  for  two  suunners.  Tlic 
skeleton  is  preserved  at  St.  Petersburg-,  and  specimens  of 
the  w-oolly  hair — proving-  that  the  clinuite  of  Siberia,  though 
then  no  tloubt  much  milder  than  at  present,  still  required 
the  protection  of  a  warm  and  shagg-y  coaf — were  presented  to 


the  chief  museums  of  I]ur 


ope. 


AlU'TIC    FOSSILS. 


•J  17 


I*,  (tf  till' 
\()\V    l<il)i 

;  iinil  (III 
iiiiit'd  iiii 
(i  isliinds 

luiS    Ix'fll 

Lvtnriit'd. 
•li  lavii-rr 
•i  covert  •! I 
it  isliiiul. 
jl',  with  a 

ol'  ('dlii- 
In  North 
iiid  thi'ir 

I'S    of    till' 

^trait,thl• 
I'd  ill  till' 
wiii^'  and 
are  tVr- 
j;  d('po>d 
wlien'.  ill 


it 


itios  as 
year  tln' 
lout  ]>i'o- 

solidly- 
ccvtaiu 

ir    to   111' 

»ro(.Mii'i'il 

imbcddi'il 
of  the 
ralkt'd  nil 

SCOVOl'i'il. 

'rs.  TIk' 
■inious  of 
U  thou;^!i 
reciuivii.l 
sented  tn 


Tlu"  remains  of  a  rhinoceros,  very  siniihir  to  the  Indian 
sjieeies.  are  likewise  found  in  o-reat  nunihers  alon^'the  sliores, 
i>r  on  the  steep  and  .-^audv  river-banks  of  Northern  Siberia, 
;i]nii^-  witli  those  <»f  fossil  s])eeies  of  the  horse,  the  nuisk-ox, 
and  the  bist»n,  whieh  have  now  totally  forsaken  the  Aretic 
wilds. 

The  Archi]»ela^'o  of  New  Siberia,  situated  to  the  north  of 
llii"  Liiehow  Islands,  was  discovered  by  Sirowatsky  in  1S(HI, 
and  since  then  scientitically  i'X]»lore(l  by  lledenstri'tni  in 
I^OS.  and  Anjou  in  \^'l'].  These  islands  are  remarkable  n<» 
li'ss  for  the  numerous  bones  of  horses,  butfaloes,  oxt'ii,  and 
sheep  scatt(>red  over  their  desolate  shon'S,  than  for  the  vast 
(juantities  of  fossil-wood  imbedded  in  their  Koil.  The  hills, 
which  rise  to  a  considerable  altitudi',  consist  of  horizontal 
lii'ds  of  sandstone,  alternating.;-  with  bituminous  beams  or 
trunks  of  trees.  On  ascending-  them,  fossilised  charcoal  is 
everywhere  met  with,  encrusted  with  an  ash-c(>h)ured  matter, 
which  is  S(»  hard  that  it  can  scarcely  be  scraj)ed  otf  with  a 
knife.  On  the  summit  there  is  a  lony*  row  of  beams  resem- 
liliiii^'  the  foriiKM',  l)ut  fixed  perpendicularly  in  the  sandstone. 
'J'he  ends,  which  ])roi(>ct  from  seven  to  ten  inches,  are  for  the 
most  piirt  broken,  and  the  whole  has  the  appearance  of  a 
ruinous  dyke.  Thus  a  robust  forest  veo-ctation  once  ilou- 
rished  where  now  onlv  hardv  lichens  can  be  seen;  and  nianv 
herbivorous  animals  feasted  on  <4Tasses  where  now  the  rein- 
deer finds  but  a  scanty  sup[»ly  t>f  moss,  and  the  polar  bear  is 
the  sole  lord  of  the  dreary  waste. 


'ihe  A!  iiali  Shtui) 


■P 


'■lOfK. 


>-v  -  ~«<K.— 


rii'nui  mil  l:';Xllc3  I  \\  lou'L'. 


'^. 


C'llAI'TKIf    W'll. 

SIliKIM  \       1'ri;-TI!.\I)K    AND    (JOF-D-DKiC  f \(iS. 

SilMi'i.i         Its    iiiiirirlisc    l-'.\t(iil    alhl    ( 'iipaMli!  i>  >      'I'lif    I'Ail.s  —  .Mi'iil '•■■liikdil' 
|)(il^iiir(iiiky  -    .Miinii'li     'I'lir  CriiiiiiiaN     'I'lir  tVcr  Silji'riaii    iVasaiit      Mxl  I'ciii'-' 
iillliat  ami  Cold  -  iMir-lnai-iiiii  .\iiiiiial>— 'I'll.'  SaMr     The  I'li'iiiinc — The  Si  Ik  tI  an 
Wia/.cl -TlicSca-OlIri'     Till'  r.lai'k  l"ux      'I'll.'  I.\  ii\  - 'I'lic  S'|iiii-rrl      'l'lM■^■an•• 
iiiL^lIai'i — 'I'hi' Suslik      liu]iiiriaiiri' III' I  hr  T'lii' Ti'adc  fur  the  Nm-ilicrn  l'i'M\iih'i » 
(.r  Ihe    l!iis>i:iu    l-'iiipirc      'i'hc   (l(_iM    i»i;^L;iiin>   nf    I'lastciMi    Silicri.i     Tlic  Taivii 
-  I'.\['('n<cs  ami    nilticiilties  ol'  ;-cai'i'liiiiu'   I'^xpcilit  inns — Cosls  of  I'i'imIiu'c  and 
(•iinriniius    I'roliis   dl'    -iiri'c^>t'iil   SpienlatDr^     'i'hcir    scii.--cli  >s    l'!.\trava;riini"('- 
l''ir.st    l)isri>vci'y  ol'  linM   in  ihc  I'ral    .M(]iuilaiii<  -  .Jaknu  !iw  and    jlinii't"' 
Nisliiu-Tnt;;il>k. 

SfBERTA  is  at  least  tliivtv  tiiiu's  inovo  (>xtensi\  llian 
CJreat  Britain  and  Irclaml,  l)ut  its  scanty  ])(>])nlal  ini 
forms  a  miserable  contrast  to  its  enornidus  si/.c.  (,'ontainiiiu 
scarcely  three  millions  of  inhabitants,  it  is  comparatively 
three  hnndred  times  less  peopled  than  the  liritish  Islands. 
This  small  i)opulati<ni  is,  mor<'ov(M",  very  unccpiiilly  disti'i- 
bnted,  eonsistint>'  ohielly  of  Rnssiiins  and  Tartars,  who  have 
settled  in  the  .south  or  in  the  mildei*  west,  alon^'  the  rivers  anil 
the  principal  (lioronulit'arcs  which  lend  tVoni  the  tcrrit<try  <d' 


>■» 


L^ 


"aI  I'rlll'  ~ 

Silicriiiii 
ic  \';irv 

l'lM\lll.'l  - 

IV  Taiv  I 
hIik'c   aiiil 


I   I  1111  I 

)ul:it  ii'i 
liiiuiiiu' 
i-ii  lively 
sliimls. 
(listri- 
lo  Imve 
crs  iiiiil 
itorv  "t 


■$.:^^c%M^:5^ 


«^.fr~^— 


-Aiir.i:  AMI  .\ui  IK    1 1>\. 


mm 


K    i 


KXII.HS    IN    SinKIUA. 


•210 


Hill'  larg'O  stream  to  the  other.  In  tlie  northern  unci  eastern 
districts,  as  far  as  they  are  occnpied,  the  settlements  are  like- 
wise almost  entirely  Cimtined  to  the  river-banks;  and  tlins 
lli(^  o-reater  part  of  tht?  enormons  forest-lands,  and  of  the 
iiitci-minable  tnndrus,  are  either  entirely  nniidiabited  by 
man,  or  visited  only  by  the  hnntsman,  the  ^-ohl-diu-o-or,  or 
tilt  mipTatory  sava<j;e. 

And  yet  Siberia  lias  not  been  so  ni^-o-ardly  treated  by 
Nature  as  not  to  be  able  to  sustain  a  far  more  considerable 
[lepulation.  In  the  south  there  are  thousands  of  square 
miles  fit  for  cultivation;  the  nundjers  of  the  herds  and  flocks 
iiii^^ht  be  increased  a  hundredfold,  and  even  the  climate 
would  become  milder  after  the  labour  of  man  had  subdued 
llie  chilling-  influences  of  the  forest  and  the  swamp.  But  it 
is  easier  to  express  than  to  realise  the  Avisli  to  see  Siberia 
more  populous,  for  its  reputation  is  hardly  such  as  to  tempt 
the  free  colonist  to  settle  Avithin  its  limits  ;  and  thus  the 
Ixussian  Government,  Avhich  would  willine-ly  see  its  more 
temperate  reg-ions  covered  with  flourishing'  towns  and  vil- 
lages, can  onl}-  expect  an  increase  of  population  from  the 
slow  growth  of  time,  aided  by  the  annual  influx  of  the  invo- 
luntary emigrants  which  it  sends  across  the  Ui-.il  to  the 
East. 

Many  a  celel)rated  personage  has  already  been  doomed  to 
trace  this  melancholy  path,  particularly  during  the  last  cen- 
tury,  Avlien  the  all  powerful-favourite  of  one  period  Avas  not 
seldom  doomed  to  exile  by  the  next  palace  revolution.  This 
fat(^  befel,  among  others,  the  famous  Prince  Mentschikolf. 
Ill  a  covered  cart,  and  in  the  dress  of  a  peasanr,  the  confi- 
'leiitial  niinistei'  of  Pett.T  the  (ireat,  the  man  who  for  years 
li;iil  ruled  the  vast  Russian  Ihnpire,  was  conveyed  into  per- 
pi'tual  banishment.  His  dwelling  was  now  a  siini)le  hut,  and 
the  s[)ade  of  the  labourer  re]»laced  tin'  pen  of  Uio  s;tatesman. 
I'emestic  misf<»rtunes  aggravated  his  cruel  lot.  His  wife* 
died  iVoni  the  fatigues  of  the  iournev ;  -ofie  of  his  daughters 
seen  after  fell  a  victim  to  tlie  smallpox;  his  two  other 
'  hildren.  Avho  were  attacked  by  the  same  nnilady,  recovered. 
He  himself  died  in  the  year  1729,  and  Avas  buried  near  his 
diniL'Iiter  at  Beresow,  flie  seat  of  his  exile.  Like  Cardimil 
NVol.->ev,  after  his  fall    he   remend)ered  (o»d,  whom   he   had 


sn-'-mm^^i^^mm 


920 


THE    I'OLAK    WOKLD. 


for^'otton  cluriii<,'  the  swelliufj  tide  of  his  prosperity.  Hy 
considered  liis  punishment  as  a  blessino-,  -which  showed  hini 
the  way  to  evtn-liistin^'  luippiness.  He  built  a  chapel,  assist- 
ing* in  its  erection  with  his  own  hands,  and  after  the  ser- 
vices <4"ave  instruction  to  the  conj;^Te^'atiun.  The  iidiabitants 
of  lion 'SOW  still  honour  his  meniorv,  and  revere  him  as  a 
saint.  They  were  continued  iu  this  belief  by  the  circum- 
stance that  his  body,  havin<^  been  dishiterred  in  1821,  was 
found  in  a  state  of  perfect  preservation,  after  a  lapse  of 
ninety-two  years. 

Our  (lay,  as  his  daufj'liter  walked  throu<i,'h  the  villa<^e,  she 
was  accosted  l)y  a  peasant  from  the  window  of  a  hut.  This 
peasant  was  Prince  Doli^-orouky,  her  father's  enemy — the 
man  who  had  caused  liis  banishment,  and  was  now,  iu  his 
turn,  doomed  to  taste  the  bitterness  of  exile.  Soon  after, 
the  princess  and  her  br(jther  were  pardoned  by  the  Empress 
Anna,  and  Dol<^"oroulvy  took  i)ossessiou  of  theu*  hut.  Youn;L;" 
Mentschikoif  was  tinally  reinstated  in  all  the  honours  and 
riches  of  his  father,  and  frcmi  him  descends,  iu  a  direct  line, 
the  fannnis  defender  of  Sebastopol. 

Marshal  Miinich,  the  favourite  of  the  Empress  Anna,  was 
doomed,  in  his  sixtieth  year,  to  a  Siberian  exile,  when  Eliza- 
beth ascended  tlie  throne.  His  prison  consisted  of  three 
rooms — ^itne  for  his  «4"uards  or  ^'aolers,  the  sec(»nd  for  their 
kitchen,  the  third  for  his  own  use.  A  wall  twenty  feet  hi^li 
prevented  him  from  enjoying"  the  view  even  of  the  sky.  Tin- 
man  who  had  once  ^^'overned  Russia  had  but  half  a  rouble  dailv 
to  spend  :  but  the  love  of  his  wife— who,  alihouyh  fifty-livi' 
years  old,  had  the  coura^-e  and  the  self-denial  to  accompaiiv 
him  in  his  banishment — alleviated  the  sorrows  (»f  Ids  exili'. 
The  venerable  couple  s])eut  twenty-one  years  in  Siberia,  and 
on  their  return  iVom  exile,  liftv-two  children,  urandchildrcii, 
and  g"reat-^Ta)idchildren  wore  assend)led  to  meet  them  at 
^loscow.  Tlie  revolution  which  placed  Catherine  the  Second 
on  the  throne,  had  nearly  once  more  doomed  the  octopfenii- 
riau  statesman  to  banishment,  but  he  fortunately  weathered 
the  st(U-m,  and  died  as  y,-overnor  of  St.  Petersburg*. 

In  this  century,  also,  many  an  unfortunate  exde,  ouiltless 
at  least  of  i^-noble  crimes,  has  been  doomed  to  wander  t" 
Siberia.     There   many   a    soldier    of  the    (jnnule   annee  has 


CRIMIXAL    KXILES. 


'2-21 


ty.  U^ 
rved  hi  1 11 
I,  tissist- 
tlie  ser- 
labitaiits 
ini  as  a 
oireum- 
H-ll,  uas 
lapse  of 

aL^e,  slu' 
it.  This 
my — the 
,v,  iii  his 
»ii  after, 
Empress 
Youiil;' 
Diirs  and 
rect  line, 

mm,  Avas 
Ml  Elizii- 
of  three 
for  their 
eet  hiti'li 
cy.  Tlir 
l)le  daily 
hfty-liw 
eompany 
lis  exili'. 
'ria,  and 
idiildren. 
them  at 
0  Seeond 
)<'to;4'ena- 
eathercd 

yiiiltiess 
auder  to 
nna:   has 


II 


(>nded  his  life;  there  still  lives  many  a  patriotic  Polo, 
Itanished  for  havin*;'  loved  his  conntry  'not  wisely  but  too 
well  ; '  there  also  the  conspirators  who  marked  with  so  bloody 
an  episode  the  accession  of  Nicholas,  havi'  had  time  to  re- 


flect on  the  d; 


lect  on  tlio  dann-ers  of  plotting-  a^-aiiist  the  Czar. 

Most  of  the  Siberian  exiles  are,  however,  common  crimi- 
nals— such  as  in  our  C(juntry  would  be  hung-  or  transported, 
or  sentenced  to  the  treadmill :  the  assassin,  the  robber — to 
Siberia  ;  the  snniggler  on  the  frontier,  whose  free-trade 
principles  injure  the  imperial  exehequer — to  Siberia  ;  even 
the  vagabond  Avho  is  caught  roaiuing,  and  can  give  no  satis- 
factory account  of  his  doings  and  intentions,  receives  a  fresh 
[lassport — to  Siberia. 

Thus  the  annual  number  of  th(^  exiles  amounts  to  about 
l:2.(i(M>.  who,  according-  to  the  gravity  of  tliidr  offences, 
iire  sent  further  and  further  eastwards.  ()ii  an  aviTag(\ 
every  week  sees  a  transport  of  about  -'Joo  of  tliese  •  uu- 
fortunates,'  as  they  are  termed  by  popular  compassion, 
jiass  through  Tobolsk.  About  one-sixth  are  immediately 
imrdoned,  and  the  others  soi'ted.  Murderers  and  burglars 
are  sent  to  the  mines  of  Nertschinsk,  after  having  Ijeen 
treated  in  Russia,  before  they  set  out  on  their  travcds,  with 
lifty  lashes  of  the  knout.  In  fonner  times  their  nostrils 
used  to  be  t(n-n  off,  a  barbarity  which  is  now  ]io  longcr 
practised. 

Accordingto  Sir  George  Simpson's  'Narrative  (d'a  -Tourney 
Round  the  AVorld  '  (ISl?),  Siberia  is  tlie  liest  penitentiary  in 
the  world.     Every  exile  Avho  is   not  consi(h're(l   ba<l  enoiigli 
for  Ihe  mines — tliose  blacdc  abysses,  af   whose  entrance,  as  ,it 
iliat  of  Dante's  hell,  all  hope  must  lie  left  bidiind     recei\cs  a 
piece  of  land,  a  hut,  a  horse,  two  cows,   the   iiecessmy  aLi'ri- 
cultiiral    implements,    and   provi>ions  {'>>y   a    yeai'.      The   first 
ihrcM'  y(.'ars  h<.'  has  no  taxes  to  piiy,  ami.  diiriiiii'  the  fullowing 
ten.  only  the   half  (d'  the   usual    asses^menl.     'I'hus.    it'    he 
ehoose  to  exert  himself,  he  Inis  every  reason   to  hope  tor  an 
improvement  in  his   condition,  and   af    the   same  time  \\-,\r 
contributes  to  keep  him  in  the  rigid  jiatli  :  for  he  well  knows 
that    his  first  trespass  would  infalliljly  conduct  him    to  the 
tninos,  a  by  no    means   agreealde   prospect.      I'ndei-   the    in- 
lluence  <d' these  stimulants,  manv  an  exile  ;iltaiiis  a  degree  of 


222 


TIIK    rOLAll   WORLD. 


prosperity  wliioli  would  have  boon  quite  beyond  his  reiicli  had 
he  ronuiined  in  Enrc)i)Oiin  Rnssia. 

Hof'niann  yives  a  less  favourable  account  of  the  Sibeviiiii 
exiles.  Jn  his  opinion,  the  prospority  and  civilisation  of  the 
country  has  no  greater  obstacle  than  the  mass  of  criminals 
sent  to  swell  its  population.  In  the  province  of  Tomslv, 
Avhich  seems  to  be  richly  stocked  ■with  c\ilprits  of  the  Avorst 
description,  all  the  wag-g-oners  beloiifv  to  this  class.  Th(\v 
endeavoured  to  excite  his  compassion  by  hypocrisy.  '  It  was 
the  will  of  God  ! '  is  thoir  standiuo-  phrase,  to  which  they  tried 
to  give  a  greater  emphasis  by  turning-  up  tlie  Avhites  of  their 
ey(.'s.  But,  in  s])ite  of  this  pious  resignation  to  the  Divine 
will,  Ilofniaiui  never  met  with  a  worse  set  of  drunkards,  liars, 
and  thieves. 

As  to  the  free  Siberian  peasant,  who  is  generally  of  exile 
extraction,  all  travellers  are  agreed  in  his  praise.  '  As  soon 
as  one  crosses  the  Ural,'  says  Wrangoll,  '  one  is  suri)rised 
by  the  extreme  friendliness  and  good-nature  of  the  inhabit- 
ants, as  much  as  by  the  rich  vegetation,  the  well-c\dtivated 
holds,  and  the  excoUent  state  of  tln^  roads  in  the  southoru 
part  of  the  government  of  Tolxdsk.  Our  lug-gage  could  be  loi\ 
without  a  guard  in  the  opcni  air.  "  Neboss  !  "  "  Fear  not !  " 
was  the  answer  when  we  expressed  some  apprehension; 
"  there  are  no  thieves  among  us."  This  may  appear  strange, 
but  it  must  be  remembered  that  the  Tomsk  waggoners,  de- 
scribed above,  are  located  far  nK)re  to  the  east,  and  that 
every  exiled  criminal  has  his  prescribed  circuit,  the  bounds 
of  which  he  may  not  pass  without  incurring-  the  penalty  of 
being  sent  to  the  mines. 

According  to  Professor  Ilani'^en,*  the  Siberian  peasants 
aro  the  finest  men  of  all  Russia,  with  constitutions  of  iron. 
"With  a  sheepskin  over  their  shirt,  and  their  thin  linen 
trousers,  tlu^y  bid  dellanco  to  a  cold  of  '\if  and  more.  They 
have  nothing  of  the  dirty  avarice  of  the  Eurojiean  Russian 
boor;  theylnive  as  much  land  as  they  choose  i'or  cultivation, 
and  the  soil  furnishes  all  they  require  for  their  nourishment 
and  elothing.  Their  cleanliness  is  exenqdary.  Within  tli(^ 
last  thirty  years  the  gold-diggings  have  siunoAvhat  spoilt  liii.^ 


'   'I'lMvds  ill  >iii.Ti;i,  1S2M    l,s:i(). 


Ri:.soL'Krf:>^  of  siijkkia. 


'2-23 


reaeli  had 

Siberia  n 
oil  of  tlio 
criiiiiiijil.s 
f  Tomsl., 
the  Avorst 
!s.     They 

'  It  was 
hey  tried 
i  of  their 
le  Divine 
rds,  liars, 

'  of  exi](! 
'  As  soon 
surprised 
iiihaljit- 
iiltiviited 

SOlltllCl'U 

(l  be  left 
r  not !  " 
lensioii ; 
.straii<4-e, 
lers,  de- 
iid  thiit 
bounds 
lalty  (d' 

feasants 

of  iron. 

n  linen 

They 

■Inssian 

ivation. 

slnnciil 

lin  fill' 

ill  tliis 


slate  fd'  primitive  siniplieity,  yet  even  llofniann  allows  that 
lilt'  Wi'st-Siberian  peasant  has  retained  nmeh  of  the  honesty 
and  hospitality  for  which  he  was  justly  celebrated. 

Besides  ag'riculture,  niinin;^-,  ilshinj^',  and  hunliuLT,  the 
cavriay'e  of  merchandise  is  one  of  the  (diief  occnpatit)ns  of 
the  Siljerians,  and  probably,  in  pi-o^Mivtion  to  the  popnlation, 

I tlu'r  country  ernidovs  so  lary-e  a  number  of  wa o-u'oners 

;iii<l  carriers.  The  enormous  masses  of  C(>p[)"r,  lead,  iron, 
and  silver,  produced  by  the  Altai  and  the  Nertschinsk  moun- 
tains, have  to  be  conveyed  from  an  immense  distaiuje  to  the 
Russian  markets.  The  i^'old  from  the  East-Siberian  di^'f^'ino-s 
is  indeed  easier  to  transpcu't,  but  the  provisions  retpiired  by 
t lie  thousands  of  Avorknien  em})loy«'d  duriu'j,-  th(>  summer  in 
worlciii^'  the  auriferous  sands,  have  to  be  brouo-lit  to  then), 
fi'e(|ueutly  from  a.  distance  of  nuiny  hundred  vei-sts. 

The  millions  of  furs,  from  the  squirrel  to  the  bear,  likewise 
iv(|uire  considerable  means  of  transj.ort;  and,  finally,  the 
iiii^lily  imjiortant  caravan-trade  with  China  conveys  thousands 
of  liales  of  tea  from  Kiacdita  to  Irbit.  Siberia  has  indeed 
many  navig'able  rivers,  bitt  a  i^danco  at  the  nuip  shows  ns  iit 
once,  that  they  are  so  situated  as  to  afford  far  less  facilities 
to  eommerce  than  would  be  the  case  in  a  more  temperate 
( limate.  They  all  ilow  northwards  into  an  inhosi)ital)le  sea, 
wliicli  is  for  ever  closed  to  navi^^'ation,  and  are  themselves 
ice-liniuid  duriim-  the  ii'reater  ]>art  of  the  vear.  EnornKms 
distances  separate  them  from  each  other,  and  there  are  no 
navii>-able  canals  to  unite  them. 

On  some  of  the  lartjer  rivers,  steamboats  have  indeed 
lieeii  introduced,  and  railroads  are  lulh-id  of;  but  there  can 
lie  no  doubt  that,  for  many  a  }ear  to  come,  the  cart  and  the 
sled^'e  will  continue  to  be  the  chi(d'  means  of  transport  in  a 
country  which,  in  conseqneiice  <d'  its  jieculiar  ^•eo^•raphical 
jii'sition,  is,  even  in  its  nion'  southei'ii  [larts,  exp^tsed  1<>  all  the 
lii^'oui-s  of  an  Arctic  winter. 

Thus  at  Jakutsk  (<>2'^  N.  lat.^i,  Avliicdi  is  situated  but  six 
dei;i'ces  further  to  the  north  than  Kdinbui'i^h  {~)o^  •')^'),  tin; 
mean  temjx'rature  of  the  coldest  month  ir;  —  In',,  jnid  mer- 
curv  a  solid  bodv  dtirine'  one-sixth  iiart  of  the  \car:  while 
al  h'kiitsjs  !.')2'  Ki'  X.  hit.)  silualed  but  iitth'  fiirtlier  to 
'lie   north  than  <  >\ford  ;.)1      Ki'),  the  t  hei'indun-ier  frctjueiith 


224 


TIIK    POLAR    WOULD. 


1^ 

i  I 


falls  to  —00°,  or  even  —  4(>°;  temperatures  which  are,  of 
course,  quite  uuheanl  of  ou  the  bauks  of  the  Tsis.  For  these 
dreadful  Aviuters  in  the  heart  of  Siberia,  and  uuder  coni- 
l^aratively  low  de<,n'ees  of  latitude,  there  are  various  causes. 
The  laud  is,  iu  the  first  place,  au  iuimeuse  plain  slautiu}jf  to 
the  uortli ;  moreover,  it  is  situated  at  such  a  distauce  from 
the  AHantic,  that  bi'voud  the  Ural  the  western  sea-winds, 
which  briut^'  warmth  to  our  winters,  assume  the  character 
of  cold  land-wiu<ls ;  and,  finally,  it  merges  in  the  south  into 
the  hi<4-h  Mono-olian  plateau,  which,  situated  4,0(10  feetab(»ve 
the  level  of  the  sea,  has  of  course  but  little  warmth  to 
impart  to  it  iu  Avinter  ;  so  that,  from  whatever  side  the  wind 
may  blow  at  that  season,  it  constantly  conveys  cold.  But 
in  summer  the  scene  undt'ro'oes  a  total  chauye.  Under  the 
influence  of  the;  sun  circlin;^"  for  months  round  the  North 
Pole,  Hoods  of  warmth  are  pimi'ed  into  Central  Siberia,  and 
rapidly  cause  the  thermometer  to  rise ;  no  nei|H"hl)<»urinn^  sea 
refreshes  the  air  with  a  cocding  breeze;  Avhether  the  wind 
come  from  the  heated  MonL>'olian  deserts,  or  sweej)  over  flic 
Siberian  ])lains,  it  imbibes  warmth  ou  <n'ery  side.  Thus  1 1n- 
terrible  Avinter  of  Jakutsk  is  folloAved  by  an  equally  iinhio- 
derate  sununer  (oH°  :>'),  so  that  rye  and  barley  are  able  t<i 
ripen  on  a  soil  Avhich  a  fcAv  feet  below  the  surface  is  p<.M'- 
petually  fro/en. 

The  boundless  Avoods  of  Si1)eria  harbour  a  nundjer  of  fnr- 
bearino'  animals,  Avhose  skins  form  c»ne  of  the  chief  products 
of  the  country.  Anions-  these  persecuted  denizens  of  tlh' 
forest,  the  sable  (.l/^r/r/f.s  ziltellinfi),  Avhich  closely  resendjies 
the  pine-marten  {Marfii^  nhictiim)  in  shape  and  size,  deserves 
to  be  particularly  noticed,  both  for  the  beauty  of  its  pelt,  and 
its  inq)ortauce  iu  the  fur-trade.  Sleei)ini;-  by  day,  tin*  saLle 
hunts  his  prey  by  niyht ;  but  tliou^'h  he  chiefly  relishes  animal 
food,  such  as  haivs,  yovniti' birds,  nuce,  and  ei>";4'S,  he  also  feeils 
on  berries,  and  the  tasteful  seeds  of  the  PiitKs  ciuiJira.     1\ 


IS 


es 


favourite  abode  is  near  the  banks  of  some  riA'er,  in  bol 
of  the  earth,  or  beneath  the  roots  of  trees.  Incessant 
persecuti<»n  has  ^'radually  driven  him  into  the  most  inai- 
cessible  forests;  the  <lays  are  no  more  when  the  Timiinse 
hunter  Avillinolv  o-ave  for  a  copjier  kettle  as  nuiny  sable-skins 
as  it  would  hold,  or  Avheu  the  Kamtschatkan  trap])er  could 


SAMIJ:-IIU.\TIN(i. 


1  are,  of 
For  tlu'st' 
lev  coiii- 
s  causes. 

LlltillJJf    to 

nee  i'vo^n 

'!l-Avill«ls. 

•hiiruetcr 
>ntli  into 
eet  above 
rmth  to 
the  wind 
lid.  But 
luler  tlie 
le  Norili 
eria,  and 
n'in<4'  stM 
the  wind 
over  the 
Thus  ihr 
\y  i  III  III  1 1- 
alde  1o 
is   per- 

nf  fni'- 
)i'odncts 

S     of    tlh' 

esonddfs 
deserves 
lelt,  iitid 

lo  S;d>li' 
s  iinini;d 
Iso  i'ccds 
ni.  His 
in  liolrs 
ncessaiit 
st  inur- 
runii'vi-i' 
)le-skins 

r  eon  Id 


^ 


liisily  cateli  seventy  ov  ei^'hty  sabli's  in  one  winter:  but  Von 
lliit'i-  si  ill  estimates  the  iinimal  produce  of   all  Siberia  at 
1A,(M)0  skins.     The  finest  are  cauo-lit  in  the  forests  between 
ihe  Lena  and  the  l^astern  Sea,  but  Kanitsehatka  fui'nislies 
llie  o-reater  number.     A  slcin  of  the  iinest  quality  is  Avorth 
!il)out   forty   roubles    on   the   spot,    and    at   least   twice   as 
much  in  St.  Petersburg-  or  Moscow,  particularly  Avhen  the 
Iiiiir  is  long,  close,  and  of  a  deep  blackish-broAvn,   with  a 
lliiek  brown  underwool.     Skins  with  lon<^  dark  hair  tipped 
with  white    are   highly  esteemed,  but    still  more  so  those 
which  are  entirely  black — a  colour  to  which  the  Russians 
'j;ivt'  the  preference,  while  the  Chinese  have  no  objection  to 
vctldish  tints.     In  consequence  of  this  difference  of  taste, 
the  saljles  from  the  Obi,  which  are  generally  larger  but  of  a 
lighter  colour,  are  sent  to  Kiachta,  wdiile  the  darker  skins,  from 
I'^astern  Siberia,  are  directed  to  St.  Petersburg  and  Leipsic. 
The  chase  of  the  sable  is  attended  with  many  hardships 
and  dangers.     The  skins  are  in  the  highest  perfection  at  the 
cf)nnnencenient  of  the  winter ;  accordingly,  towards  the  end 
of  October,  the  hunters  assemble  in   small  companies,  and 
jiroceed  algng  the  rivers  in  boats,  or  travel  in  sledges  to  the 
place  of  rendezvous — taking  with  them  provisions  for  three 
or  four  months.     In  the  deep  and  solitary  forest  they  erect 
llicir  huts,  made  of  branches  of  trees,  and  bank  up  the  snow 
round  them,  as  a  further  protection  against   the  piercing 
wind.    They  now  roam  and.  seek  everywhere  for  the  traces  of 
the  sable,  and.  lay  traps  or  snares  for  his  destruction.     These 
aiv  generally  pitfalls,  with  loose  boards   placed  over  them, 
Iniited  with  fish  or  flesh  ;  firearms  or  crossbows   are  more 
rarely  used,  as  they  damage  the  skins.     The  traps  must  be 
l'iv(iuently  visited,  and  even  then  the  hunter  often  finds  that 
a  fox  has  preceded  him,  and  left  but  a  few  worthless  rem- 
nants of  the  sable  in  the  snare.    Or  sometimes  a  snowstorm 
overtakes  him,  and  then  his  care  must  be  to  save  his  own 
lite.      Thus    sable-hunting  is  a  continual    chain   of  disa[)- 
|iointnients  and  perils,   and   at  the   end  of  the  si-ason  it  is 
irc(|uently  found  that  the  expenses  are  hardly  paid.     Until 
now  tlif  sable  has  been  but  riirely  tamed.     One  kept  in  the 
palace  of  the  Archbishop  of  Tolxdsk  was  so   ix'rl't'ctly   do- 
mesticated, that  it  was  allo^ved  <o  sfroll  about  (he  iown  as  it 

o 


P 


mmmmmmmim 


2  2(5 


TilK    I'OI.AK    \V"i:i,I). 


likoil.  It  was  an  areh-eiieiny  of  eats,  niiHino-  itself  furious ly 
oil  its  liiud-loL^'s  as  soon  as  it  saw  «.ine,  and  sliowin;^'  the 
yi'eatest  diisire  to  liL^-lit  it. 

In  foi'incr  times  the  ermine  {Miiyt(h(  criuiocd]  ranked  next 
\o  tlie  sable  as  the  most  vahiable  i'ur-beariu<^  animal  of 
lh(>  Siberian  woods ;  at  ]>resent  the  sl<iu  is  Avortli  no  moi'i' 
than  from  live  to  ei<^'ht  silver  kopeks  at  Tobojsic,  so  that  tlie 
Avhoh;  ]»roduee  t»f  its  chase  hardly  anjonnts  to  !i(l(»,()()0  roubli.s. 
Th.'s  little  animal  resembles  in  its  ^'eneral  appearance  the 
■weasel,  bnt  is  considerably  larger,  as  it  uttaius  a  lenutli  of 
from  twelve  to  fourteen  inches.  Its  c<dour,  which  is  reddi.^li- 
brown  in  sumnn'r,  becomes  milk-wbiie  (hu'iii;.;'  the  wiutci'  in 
the  northern  re<j;'ions,  with  the  cxcejition  of  the  tip  of  llic 
tail,  whicli  always  remains  black,  lis  habits  likewise  <4rcaiiy 
resemble  those  of  th(^  Avi-asd  :  it  is  ('(ically  alert  in  all  lis 
movements,  and  eijually  courageous  in  dcfejidin^-  itself  uhm 
attacked.  It  lives  on  birds,  poultry,  rats,  rabbits,  leverds, 
and  all  kirids  of  smaller  aniuralf-,  and  will  not  hesitate  to 
•  attai-k  a  prey  of  much  j^'reaier  size  tiian  itself.  Allhouijh 
various  species  of  ermine  are  distributed  ovt  ]•  the  whol,' 
forest  re<4-!on  of  the  north,  yet  Siberia  i^roduce^  the  finest 
skins.  The  larj^^'est  come  from  the  Kolynni,  or  art'  brouulii" 
to  th(>  fiiir  of  Ostrownoje  by  the  Tcliulchi,  who  oljtain  tjiem 
from  the  coldest  rei>'ions  of  America. 

The  Siberian  weasel  {Vir'rrn  s'ihri-irii),  -which  is  i)iuc]i 
smaller  than  the  ermine,  is  lilr(Mvis(>  huute'l  for  its  soft  aiMJ 
perfectly  snow-white  Avinter  dre-s  -the  ti))  of  the  tail  in'i 
being-  black,  as  in  the  latt(  r. 

The  sea-otter,  or  kalan  (/v///^ //'?//•••  /"/r/s),the  most  vahialil'' 
of  all  the  Hussian  fur-bearini,'' animals,  as  ]\i)  silver  ronlil*'< 
is  the  a.verag'e  I'trice  of  a  single  skin,  is  nearly  relate"!  to  iIp' 
weasel  tribe.  The  enormous  \aiue  srt  upon  the  g-lossy,  ji'f- 
black,  soft,  and  thick  fur  (jf  the  Icalan  siiiliciently  ex|)lains  how 
the  Ilnssian  huutm-s  have  followed  his  traces  from  Kaiii- 
tschatka.  to  America,  and  aluio.vt  entirely  (-xt irj!ale<l  him  <'ii 
many  of  the  coasts  and  islands  of  i'ehriu'^'s  S"a  and  ili<' 
Northern  Pacific,  where  he  formerly  abmindi'd.  jlis  haMH 
very  mneh  resendde  thost^  <if  the  seal;  he  haunts  sea-was/ieil 
rocks,  lives  nn^stly  in  the  water,  and  loves  to  bask  in  the  sim, 
His  hind-teel    1i,i\e   ;i    nuMnbraiii'  skirtin;^'   the  outside  oi' t '!•' 


i 


FVi;  IJKAIMNC    ANIMALS. 


'2- 11 


furiously 
winy  tlu' 


iikeil  lU'xt 
lUiiuial  of 
.  no  nitiiv 
.  that  tlio 
i<»  roubles, 
iranee  tlic 

leiiLi'th  of 
IS  ivdilish- 
■  Av inter  in 
tip  of  lilt' 
ise  <>'iH'aiiy 

in  all  its 
tsclf  when 
s,  k'V('rt.'ts, 
lesrtaio  1>> 

AiilM'U<:ll 

the  Avlioli' 

the  fint'St 

re  In'oito'lii" 

)tain  iluiii 

is    iintcli 
s  soil  ami 

1'  tail  111'! 

t  vahtaM'' 
(>r  roiiblt'^ 

llcil    t<'    lil'' 

i'lossy,  ji'1- 
plaiiis  liow 
oiii  l\aiii- 
cij  liini  I'll 
a  ami  '1"' 
His  lial^iH 
;(':i-wasiifn 
in  llie  si'ii. 
>i,lr.  .-i'lli-^ 


rsterioi"  toe,  Ijlct,'  lliat  ol"  a  ^oose,  and  the  chnin'atetl  form 
(if  his  ilexihle  h(Mlv  eiiahh'S  liini  to  swim  >vith  the  Lircatest 
(•('li-rity.  The  hive  (tf  Ihc  sca-<»ttri's  lor  llieir  yonii'^-  is  so 
prcal  that  they  reckon  lln-ir  own  lives  as  iiolliin^'  to  jirotect 
ilii'in  i'rom  daiiy:''r;  and  Steller.  uho  Innl  nioic  o[i))ortnnities 
iliaii  any  other  naturalist  for  ohservino-  tlifir  hahits,  alHriiis 
tliat.  when  dcprivt.'d  of  their  offspriii;;-.  (hoii- i^rief  is  so  sironn" 
liiiit  ill  less  Ihan  a  f<>rtni<rlit  thev  uaslc  awav  to  slcelelous. 
(hi  their  lliifht  they  cirry  llieir  yomi'_--  in  their  nioiitlis,  or 
drive  them  aloii^''  b(.'fore  them.  If  they  sueeeed  in  rea«diiiig' 
the  sea,  they  beu'iii  to  niocdv  their  halUed  ])Ursuer,  and  exjiress 
tliir  iov  by  a^  varietv  ^A'  antics.  .Sometimes  Ihev  raise 
ih'.'Uisvdves  iipri'jht  in  the  water.  risin;Lr  and  fallin;^'  with  IJu^ 
waves,  or  holdim;-  a  forejunv  ovei'  tlieir  eyes,  as  if  to  look 
j-harply  at  liim  :  or  they  throw  thems(dvi'S  <ni  their  bade, 
ni.hliJtiL^"  their  breast  ^vitli  their  forepnws:  or  east  their 
veiii);/  into  tlie  water,  and  cat'.-h  tlii'iu  au'aiii.  I i ice  a  niotln-r 
|!layin<4'  with  lier  intant.  The  .sea-olrer  not  only  .-an'iiasses 
the  liii-otter  1>y  the  biMuty  of  his  fnr,  lint  also  in  si/.e,  as  h(.> 
attains  a  hnie'th  of  JVom  ti'Vee  to  four  fee't  t>.\<duslve  of  tlie 
T  lil.  }lis«fooil  C(»iisists  of  small  lislie's.  niolhises.  and  eriis- 
l.iceoiis  animal-^.  Avljose  liard  caleareous  eoverin^-  his  broad 
<jriiider.s  are  well  ada]>led  to  (.rush. 

Next  to  the  sea-<»tter,  the  bhudv  fox,  Avhose  skin  is  (tf  a  rich 
and  >iiinin<j,'-blaek  or  tleep  brown  eoloiir.  uith  the  loii;^cr  <>r  (X- 
I'Tior  hairs  <»f  a  silvery-wliite.  furnishes  the  most  costly  of  all 
tlie  Siberian  furs.  Tlie  averap'  ])rice  of  a  sinii'leskin  amounts 
to  ()0  or  70  silver  rouMes,  and  ri(di  amateui's  -will  willinu'ly^ 
\K^\-  :J(H»  roubles,  or  (nen  moi"('.  Ibr  tho.^e  of  Ih'st-rate  quality. 
Tlio  skin  of  the  Siberian  red  fox.  ^viii(di  ranks  m.'xt  in  value, 
is  worth  no  more  than  2'>  roubles;  the  steel  e'r(.'y  winter 
dress  of  the  Siberian  crossed  fox  (thus  named  tV<im  the  black 
<re.~s  on  his  shoulders),  from  1<>  to  12  r(tubles  :  and  that  of 
ilie  Arctic  f(.>x,  thouyh  very  warm  and  elose,  no  more  than 
<'  er  S. 

Til'-  bear  fimilv  likewise  furnishes  many  sicins  to  the 
^'ilxM'ian  furrier.  That  of  the  younij,'  br«e,\n  bear  [Cryirs 
<irrl,in)  is  highly  esieeme(l  for  the  trimmino"  of  pelisses:  but 
that  of  the  ohler  anbnal  has  little  value,  and  is  used,  like 
th:it  of  th(^  l^dar  liear,  as  a  rue-  rtr  a  foot-(doth  in  sledn-054. 


I    I 


'i'JS 


THE    l'(»l,.\U   WolJM). 


The  lynx  is  liij^-hly  prized  for  ils  vcrv  lliick,  soft,  nist- 
coloiuvd  winter  dress  striped  willi  diirker  I»r<>\vn.  It  attains 
the  si/e  <»f  the  wolf,  and  is  distiui^Miished  from  all  other 
uieinhers  of  the  cat  trihe,  hy  the;  pencils  <»t'  loni;  black  hair 
which  tip  its  erect  and  pointed  ears.  It  loves  to  lie  in 
ambush  for  the  passing  reindeer  or  elk,  on  some  thick  branch 
at  a  considerable  distance  I'rom  the  ^'round.  With  one  pro- 
di^'ious  l>onnd  it  leaps  upon  the  back  of  its  victim,  sti-ikes 
its  talons  into  its  llesh,  and  o[»eJis  Avith  its  sharp  teeth  tlie 
arteries  of  its  neck. 

Thon<,di  shi^'ly  of  but   little   value,  as   a    thousand   of  its 
skins  are  worth  no  more   than  i»ne   sea-otter,   the   squii-rd 
plays  in  reality  a  far  more  important  part   in  the  Siberian 
fur-trade  than  any  of  the  before-mentioned  animals,  as  tlir 
total  value  of  the  yrey  peltry  which  it  furnishes  to  trade  is 
at  least  seven  times  <^'reater  than  that  of  the  sable.     Four 
millions  of  grey  s(piirrel-skins  are,  on  an  averaf;-e,  annual  I  v 
exported  to  China,  from  two  to  three  millions  to    Eurojie. 
and  the  home-consumption  of  the  Russian  Em[)ire  is  beyoml 
all  doubt  still  more  considerable,  as  it  is  the  fur  most  com- 
monly used  by  the  middle-classes.     The  European  squirrels 
are  of  inferior  value,  as  the  hair  of  their  winter  dress  is  still 
a  mixture  of  red  and  grey;  in  the  territory  of  the  Petschora. 
the  grey  first  becomes  predominant,  and  increases  in  beauty 
on  advancing  towards  the  east.     The  squirrels  are  caught  in 
snares  or  traps,   or  shot  with  blunted  arrows.     AnK>ng  tin 
fur-bearing  animals  of  Siberia,  we  have  further  to  iu>tice  the 
varying  hare,   whose  Avinter  dress  is   entirely  white,  except 
the  tips  of  the  ears,  which  are  black ;  the  Baikal  hare  ;  the 
ground-squirrel,  whose  fur  has  fine  longitudinal  dark-brown 
stripes,  alternating  with   four   light-yellow    ones;    and  the 
suslik,  a  species  of  marmot,  Avliose  bi'OAvn   fur,  Avith  Avhite 
spots  and  stripes,  fetches  a  high  price  in  China.     It  occurs 
over  all   Siberia  as  far  as  Kamtschatka.     Its  burruAvs  arc 
frequently  nine  feet  deep ;  this,  hoAvever,  docs  not  prevent  its 
being  dug  out  by  the  hunters,  Avho  likcAvise  entrap  it  in 
spring  Avlien  it  aAvakes  from  its  Avinter  sleep. 

Summing  together  the  total  amount  of  the  Russian  fnv- 
trade.  Yon  Baer  estimates  the  A^alue  of  the  skins  annua llv 
bi-onght  to  the  market  by  the  Russian  Amerii^an   Fur  Cen  - 


SAM')   or    I'l'KS. 


329 


(it't,  nist- 
It  iittiiiiis 

all  oth<  r 
)la<'lv  liiiii' 

to  lie  ill 
ck  briiiicli 

one  [ti'd- 
111,  strikes 

ledh  ill.' 

uul   ol'  it^ 
e   siinirvfl 
[»  Siberian 
ills,  as  ilie 
to  trade  is 
ble.     Four 
.',  annual l_v 
<)    Europe, 
is  lieyoiul 
most  coiii- 
II  squirrels 
ivss  is  still 
Potscliora, 
in  beauty 
cauglit  ill 
LlllOn<4'    tlie 
notice  till' 
ite,  except 
liare  ;  tlie 
ark-brow  II 
;    and  tlie 
with  Avliitc 
It  occurs 
lUTows  arc 
prevent  its 
itrap  it  in 

ussiaii  I'ur- 
is  annua n_v 
Fur  ('e.ir- 


p:iiiy  al  ball'  a  niillioii  of  silver  I'onblcs,  ibe  produce  of 
l';iiro[)ean  Jlussia  at  a  million  and  a  bait',  and  tbat  ol'  Siberia 
at  three  millions.  As  an'ricnlture  deereases  on  a<lvaneini4"  to 
tlie  north,  the  cbase  of  (be  fur-bearinj;'  animals  increases  in 
iiiipoi'tan('(».  Thus,  in  tlu'  most  iiortberii  f^'overnments  of 
lan-opean  liussia — W'jatka,  \Vol(»;^da,  Olonc/,  and  v\.reban<4;(d 
—  it  is  one  of  the  ebief  occupations  of  tbe  inbabitanls.  In 
Olonez  about  I'our  hundred  bears  are  killed  every  year,  and 
I  lie  immense  forests  of  \Volo;4(Ja  furnish  from  one  bundred 
tn  two  bundred  black  foxes,  three  hundred  bears,  and  tlii'ee 
millions  of  sijuirrels. 

Althou^'h  tbe  sablo  and  the  soa-otter  are  not  so  iiuinerous 
;is  ill  former  times,  yot,  upon  the  whole,  the  llussian  i'ur-trado 
is  in  a  very  tlourishin^'  condition  ;  nor  is  there  any  fear  of  its 
deereasiny',  as  the  less  valuable  skins — such  as  those  of  tbe 
sipiirrels  and  hares,  wbicdi  from  tbeir  numbers  weii^b  most 
heavily  in  the  balance  of  trade — are  furnished  by  rodents, 
\\]ii<'h  multijily  very  rapidly,  and  lind  an  inexhaustible  supply 
nf  food  in  the  forests  and  pasture-<^Tounds  (»f  Siberia. 

Tbe  chase  of  the  fur-bearino-  animals  ati'ords  the  North 
Siberian  nomads — such  as  the  Ostjaks,  Jakuts,  Tun^usi,  and 
Saiiiojedes — the  only  means  of  procuring  the  foreij^'ii  articles 
tliey  require  ;  hence  it  taxes  all  their  in^vnuity,  and  takes  up  a 
,i;i'eat  deal  of  their  time.  On  the  river-banks  and  in  the  f( »rests, 
tliey  lay  innumerable  snares  and  traps,  all  so  nicely  adajtted 
ti)  the  size,  stren^;*th,  and  peculiar  habits  of  the  various 
( reaturcs  they  are  intended  to  capture,  tbat  it  would  be 
almost  impossible  to  improve  them.  An  industrious  Jakut 
will  lay  about  five  hundred  various  traps  as  soon  as  the  first 
snow  has  fallen;  those  he  visits  about  five  or  six  times  in  the 
(•nurse  of  tbe  winter,  and  generally  linds  some  animal  or 
"ilier  in  every  ei^'hth  or  tenth  snare. 

Tbe  [iroduce  of  bis  cbase  be  briii^is  to  tbe  nearest  fair, 
where  the  tax-gatherer  is  waitin<^'  for  the  yassak,  which  is  now 
P'lierally  paid  in  money  (five  paper  roubles  =  four  sbillin^s). 
\\"\\h  the  remainder  of  his  y'ains  he  purchases  iron  kettles, 
I'rd  cloth  f<ir  hemming'  his  ii'armeuts,  powder  and  shot,  rye- 
iiieal,  o-lass  pearls,  t<.>bacco,  and  brandy — whicb,  th<»uy-h  for- 
l>idden  to  be  sold  publicly,  is  richly  sui»plied  to  him  in 
private — and    then    retires    to  his  native    wilds.     IVoni  the 


S30 


Tin;  I'oi.Ai:  wmn.f*. 


HiniilltM*  t'iiirs,  the  fni'M  iirc  s'Mit  1)V  tlir  Uitssimi  nicvcliimts  td 
tlic  l;ii'u'i'rsfii|>lt'  pliiccs,  siK'li  us  .fiikiitsk,  Nrrlcliiiisk,  'rulmlsk, 
Kiiicli(:i.  Irl>it,  XisliiH'-Nowo-ovod,  jiiul  liiiiilly  St.  IV'tcrs- 
biir^'  and  Moscow;  for  Ity  ri'i»('!it('(lly  sortiiiy,  ami  miitt'liiiiu' 
the  sl/c  and  coloiu'  of  tlic  skiiH,  tlicir  valii"  is  increased. 

About  tliiriv  years  a^-o,  I'lii's  were  still  tlie  chief  e.v|iort 
iirlicK' of  Sil>i'ria-1o  China.  Mui-opean  I?Mssia.  and  Wesiern 
Europe  -hnt  siu(  e  thei\  the  discovery  (d'  its  1-ieh  anriCeroii- 
deposits  has  made  ^old  its  most  ini|Mirtaut  I'l'inhice.  Tlie 
jtrecious  metal  is  IoiuhI  on  the  western  slopes  of  the  I'rai 
I'hain  and  in  West  Silieriii  ;  l»nt  the  most  [>i'odnetive  diLr^'iiit^'s 
fire  situated  in  ilast  Sihei'ia,  where  lhey;^'ive  occii[Kit i<  ii  to 
many  thousands  of  worI:men,  and  riidies  id  a  few  successful 
sjteenlatois. 

Till'  M\si  teri'itory  draiiu-il  by  the  Tpp^'i'  Jeni.-'ei  and  its 
tributaries,  the  Siiperior  and  tlu'  ^liddle  Tnne-uska,  consists 
for  the  ;^-rcater  ])ai-t  <d'  a  dismal  and  swampy  [)rime\al  forest, 
■whicli  scarcely  thirty  years  since  \vas  almost  totally  un- 
known. A  lew  wr<'tclie(l  nomads  and  tur-hniiteis  were  the 
only  inhabitants  <d"  the  TaiLj'a— as  thos(^  sylvan  deserts  ai'e 
called — ami  squirrel-skins  seeim.'d  all  tliey  v.erc  c\cr  lik' ly 
to  produce,  A  journey  throU'^'h  th<'  'I'ai'^a  is  said  to  hi'  one 
ot  the  most  fati^-uiuL';  and  tedious  toni's  wi'i(di  it  is  possihle 
to  jnak(\  I'phill  and  downhill,  a  nari'o',\  path  leads  over 
a.  swampy  'ground,  into  Avhich  the  horses  siidv  up  to  their 
kn<'es.  'i'iie  rider  is  scarcely  le>,s  harassetl  than  the  patient 
animal  \\hi(di  carries  bim  over  this  unstable  soil.     Xo  Idi'd 


enlivens  the   solitarv  forest  with    its    son 


tl 


le   moanniL;'  o 


the   wind   in   tho    crowns   of  tlii>    trees   alone    ini(  rrupts  tin 


'1 


Qlooniv   suence 


'J'l 


le     ( 


■ten 


lai 


ameiiess   (d'  th 


e   sceue — <l!i\ 


after  day  one  constant  snccession  ui'  everlastiuL,'  lai'ches  and 
fir-trees — is  as  wearyiuL;"  to  the  nundas  tlu'  almost  impassahle 
road  to  tin.'  body. 

But  snddenlv  the  sonnd  <>f  the  i\xo  or  the  creakine'  of  tlio 


waterwlieel  is  hi'ard:  t be  forest  o 


•pens,  a  lone*  row  o 


f  Imtf 


extends  alone-  the  banks  of  a  rivulet,  and  biuidreds  of  work- 
iiU'n  are  seen  moving*  about  as  industrious  as  a  bive  of  bees. 
AVliat  is  tbe  cause  of  all  this  activity  —  of  this  sudden 
cliane'e  from  a  deathlike  (piiet  to  a  feverisli  life-^  These 
are  the  yuldtields  ;  the  sands  of  these  swampiy  g-rounds  are 


sii;i;i!iA.\  (.(ii,i)  riKi.iis 


•i.'Ji 


vliiints  f(i 
,  Tobolsk, 
.  Pi'tcrH- 
miileliiii;^' 
•iiscd. 

t'f  t'\|)nrt 

VN'fsti'iMi 
iiii'irci'ons 
KM..  '!'|„. 
flM'  I'nil 
"iiLT^'i'iU's 
[>iit  ii  11  til 
oiccos.sl'iil 

i   ill  111  its 

consi.-ls 

ill  fntv>l. 

tally    im- 

Wfl'c     till' 

scrts  iii'c 
cf  likrly 

i»  lie  (Ulr 
j)(  iSslMi' 

ads  oviv 
io  tlii'ir 

'  piilii'iit 
No  l.ii'cl 

;illill!4'    of 

llpts    till' 

Mie — d;iy 
•lu's  ;iiiil 
ipiiijisaMo 

H'  of  l!)i> 

(if  liiii^ 

•  t"  ■\vc)lv- 

ol   ht'i's. 

.slidclou 

Th.'SO 

11  ids  are 


niivi'd.  liko  tlini*,.  ..I'  Hi.'  I'lictnlns,  \villi  j^'dd,  and  tlicir  Ini-- 
tiiiiati>  possessors  \voidd  not  oNcliaiiLj.'  IIm'Iii  for  the  lliiost 
meadows,  (•••ndiclds,  oi-  \  im-x  anl>j. 

I'cddi'  l*o|i(>\v,  a  Iiiiiiltr  (.!"  tin  j-i-nviiK't*  ol' Tniiisk',  is  said 
In  have  Iti'cii  till'  lii'^l  discoviTci"  of  L;'i>Id  in  Silicria  :  and 
( Ji'Vi'i'iiuit'id  having-  ^rallied  iicnnissidii  lt»  )iri\ali'  |irrsonH 
I  .  srai'i'Ii  I'm'  lilt'  iircciuiis  metal,  a  t<\v  eiiler|.risin:^'  men 
•  lii'ei'ied  t  lieir  at)e(ili<i)i  tit  the  wild  s|  Mil's  ul'  the  Sajai;  M*  iin- 
I  :iiis.  A.  Itrilliaiit  success  rewarded  their  eiideaviaii's.  Jii 
ill.'  year  \X'-)i>  an  cxpldriiiL;"  [larty,  sent  out  Uy  a  meivdiant 
1' lined  Jak'iii  IJesaiiow,  discovere<l  a  ri(di  <lejM>slt  of  miri- 
I'.reus  sand  near  the  Ininks  of  tlic  (ireal  Jlinissa  ;  and  in 
H;I!'-I'>,  similar  de^iosits  were  found  alonn*  several  of  tlio 
triiiiitaries  of  tin.'  Upper  Tiinmisk-a,  and  still  farllier  io  Iho 
ii'irili,  on  tile  (  Hctolylc,  a  I'ivulel  that  Ihtws  into  the  Pit. 

'file  (.'Xjteus<\-;  (d'a  scarchinn"  [larty  amount,  on  an  avcrn^'e, 
to  :I.<i()0  silver  rouMcs  '(KM)/.),  und  as  very  often  no  o-old 
wliairver  is  found,  these  hazardous  oxplorations  not  sehhuu 
]iui  both  the  purse  ami  the  pt'rscvcranci'  of  their  undci'takers 
to  a  severe  trial.  Thus  Nikita  ]Vlaesiiik<»w  had  sp<.Mit  no  less 
than  L'tid.diiM  silvei- roiiMes  (oL>.()oo/.>  in  IVuitless  resoarches, 
when  he  at  leii^'th  discovred  t  he  rich  ^V"l'lli''l«l  <•"  11"'  I'es- 
i.lii,  whi(di,  as  we  shall  presently  see.  amply  rcmuiierateil  him 
lei'  his  ])revioiis  losses. 

t  H'  the  dinii.'ultit's  Avhich  await  iho  e-ohl-searcliers,  a  faint 
idea  may  bo  t'ormed,  on  (^onsideriii<^  that  the  whole  of  the 
aiirifer<^iis  re^a'on,  which  far  surjiasses  in  si/o  most  ol*  the 
European  kin^'iloms,  (•(uisists  of  one  vast  forest  like  that 
aiiiive  dt.'scribed.  Patrdit's  (if  n'rass-land  on  which  horses  can 
!erd  are  of  very  rare  occurrence,  and  dam[)  moss  is  the  only 
bed  the  Tai^i'a  affords.  As  the  •i'(dd-sear(diers  are  verv  often 
at  work  soim."  huudreils  of  versis  from  the  nearest  vilhiLt'e, 
lliey  are  oblio-cd  to  carry  all  t!i>'ir  )iro\isions  aloui;-  with 
them.  Their  clothes  are  almost  coiistaully  wet,  fnaii  (heir 
-leepiim  hi  the  damp  forest,  from  the  fro(pieut  rains  towhi(di 
they  are  ex[)o,sed,  and  from  their  toilino-  in  the  swampy 
l: round.  Scarcely  have  they  dm|  a  few  feet  deep  wdieu  Iho 
fit  tills  with  water,  which  they  are  obliy,-od  to  pump  out  as 
fa:,t  as  it  g-athers,  and  thus  standing'  up  to  their  knees  in  the 
innd.  tliev  woi'k  on  until  thev  reaeh  the  solid  rook,  for  then 


'2[\2 


TlIK    rOLAi;    WOIll.l). 


only  can  tlicy  i)v  certain  that  no  auvifcrous  lay<'r  has  been 
nco-lcctcd  in  their  search.  When  we  consider,  moreover, 
that  all  tills  lah(»nr  is  very  often  totally  useless,  their  perse- 
verance cannot  but  b*^'  adniire(l;  nor  is  it  t(»  be  wondered  a1 
that  exploriu<j;-  parties  have  sometimes  encamped  on  the  site 
of  rich  g'old-deposits  "without  examinini,'  the  spot,  their 
patience  having'  been  exhausted  by  repeated  failures  in  tlie 
vicinit}'.  When  the  winter,  with  its  deep  snowfalls,  suddenly 
brealcs  in  upon  the  searcliers,  their  hardships  become  dread- 
ful. The  frost  a,nd  want  of  food  kill  their  horses,  their 
utensils  have  to  be  left  behind;  and  dra^'i^'in^-  their  most  in- 
dispensable provisions  alont;"  with,  them,  on  small  sled<^-es, 
they  are  not  seldom  oblig'ed  to  Avade  for  weeks  through  the 
deeji  sr. :)w  before  they  rea-h  some  inhabited  place. 

But  even  the  severity  ol  a  Siberian  -winter  does  not  pro 
vent  the  sending-  out  of  exploring'  parties.  Such  winter 
cxpediti(ms  arc  only  fitted  out  for  the  more  accurate  exami- 
nation of  vcri/  swampy  auriferous  f^rounds  that  have  Ijet  n 
discovered  in  the  previous  year,  and  where  it  is  less  difli- 
I'ult  to  work  in  the  frozcii  soil  than  to  contend  with  the 
Avater  in  summer.  A  winter-party  travels  Avithout  horses, 
the  Avorkmen  themselves  transporting'  all  that  they  require 
on  li<4-ht  sletlges.  They  are  oblig'ed  to  break  up  the  obdu- 
rate soil  Avith  pickaxes,  and  the  sand  thus  loosened  lias  to 
be  tluiAved  and  Avashed  in  Avarm  Avater.  After  their  day'b 
Avork,  they  spend  the  ni«^-lit  in  huts  made  of  the  branches  of 
trees,  Avhere  they  sleep  on  the  hard  ground.  It  requires  the 
iron  constitution  of  a  Siberian  to  bear  such  hardships,  to 
which  many  fall  a  prey,  in  spite  of  their  vij^^orous  health. 

A  <4Y)ld-(le])osit  having  b  !en  found,  the  fortunate  disco- 
A'orer  obtains  iho  grant  of  a  lot  c»f  groinid,  ]()()  sashens  (<Jom 
feet)  broad,  and  2,500  sashens  (or  5  versts)  long.  Two  ad- 
joiniiig  lots  are  never  granted  to  the  same  person,  but  ;i 
sidjsequent  purchase  or  amalgamation  is  permitted.  At 
(irst  ( Jovernn.ient  was  satisfied  with  a  moderate  tax  (tf  1") 
per  cent,  of  the  produce:  sul>se(piently,  however,  this  was 
doubled  until  Avithin  the  last  few  years,  when,  the  gold  pi"- 
ductidii  having  been  found  to  decrease,  llie  |  i-imitive  iuipo>' 
Avas  r<'t urued  to.  nveven  reduceil  In  '>  jmt  <'eiit.  !'"',•  the  le-^s 
productive  uihies.      Resides  (lu,^  tax,  fniin  lour  \i>  eiuht    'j:i>h\ 


(;oiJ)-in(i(ii:us. 


2.S;] 


lins  Ijccii 

IK  »!•('( )V('l'. 

ir  pi-rsc- 

l(U'l'L'(l  ill 

I  the  site 
ot,  tli( 'il- 
l's in  till' 
siuUlciily 
10  droa<l- 
ses,  their 
'  most  iii- 
[  sk'd^-es, 
L'oiig'h  the 

not  pre- 
■h  wiiitiT 
,te  exaiiii- 
lavc  been 

less  clifli- 

^vith  the 

it  horses, 
.'V  recjuire 
the  ohdu- 
iL'd  lias  to 

icir  Jay's 
anehes  of 

(uires  the 
Iships,   tn 
alth. 

I  to   (liseo- 

hens  (<;no 
Two  iid- 

(in,  but  ;i 
itt.'d.     At 

tax  of  1') 
this   was 

;^-(tl(l  pl'ii- 

vo  impost 
•  th(>  ]t"^> 
iu'lit    U"l'l 


idiihles  per  pound  of"  g'old,  aeeordin<^  to  the  riehness  of  the 
(lioM-iiij^'s,  have  to  be  paid  for  police  exponscs.  Only  a  twelve 
years'  lease  is  ^'ranted,  after  which  the  diii'^ini;'  ri'vcrts  to  the 
clown,  and  a  new  lease  has  to  Ix'  purchased.  As  the  severe 
eliiiiate  of  the  Tai^'a  limits  the  workiny-tiine  to  four  months 
it'roiii  May  to  September),  the  period  of  tin;  ccmcession  is  thus 
ill  reality  not  more  than  four  years. 

The  first  care  of  the  lessee  is,  of  course,  to  collect  the 
necessary  provisions  and  worlvin<4-  apparatus.  The  distant 
ste[»pe  of  the  Kir^-hese  furnishes  him  Avith  di-ieil  or  salted 
meat;  his  iron  utensils  he  purchases  in  the  factories  of  the 
Tral;  the  fairs  of  Irbit  and  Nishne-Nowo-orod  supply  him 
with  every  other  article  ;  and  rye-meal  and  tishes  he  easily 
<i1)tains  from  the  Siberian  peasants  or  traders.  By  water  and 
liy  land,  all  these  various  stores  have  to  be  transported  in 
>iininier  to  the  rcy'uh'iicr  or  establishment  of  the  ;4'old-di>4'L;"er 
ell  the  border  of  the  Tai<^a.  The  transjiort  throue-h  the 
Tai^'a  itself  takes  place  durino-  the  winter,  on  sled;j,'<'S.  at  a  very 
L;r<'at  cost ;  and  the  expense  is  still  more  increased  if  tinu; 
has  been  lost  throup^h  inattention,  as  then  all  that  may  still 
be  wanting-  has  to  be  conveyed  to  the  spot  on  the  backs  of 
horses. 

j\[ost  of  the  men  that  are  hired  for  working-  in  the  dig- 
iriugs  are  exiles— the  remainder  g*enerally  free  i)easaiit>,  who 
have  l.ieen  reduced  in  their  circumstances  by  misfortunes  or 
misconduct.  The  procuring-  of  the  necessary  woilunen  is 
ail  alfair  of  no  small  ti-oul)l«^  ami  ex]>(  ns".  JJefoi-e  ('\['y\ 
Minimer  campaig-n  the  ag-ents  of  the  g-old-diggers  travel 
ahoiit  the  counti'v  like  recruit inu'-sern-eants.  ainl  after  !>-i\in"- 
many  fair  words  and  some  hand-money,  ihcy  lake  the  pass- 
]i()rt  of  the  man  engaged  as  a  sec-urity  for  his  ap]ie;!raiic<-. 
but  ahlioiigh  a  ])ass[)ort  is  a.i  indispensable  dociinicnt  in 
Siberia,  yet  it  not  seldom  lia]i])eiis  that  the  woil.inaii  tiiids 
means  to  obtain  a  new  one  under  some  other  name,  uml,  I'U- 
uaging  himself  to  a  new  master,  <lefrauds  thetir>t  of  his 
lia  !id-iiioiu'v. 

It  may  easily  lie  imagined  that,  as  the  workmen  oiil_\  (-((ii- 
sist  of  the  refuse  of  society,  the  gr"atest  discijiline  is  ncces- 
sai-y  to  keep  them  in  order.  Tin*  system  of  a  secret  polifp, 
so  cherished  b\  all  aibitrarv  governments,  is  here  ■  -'ed 


234 


Tin:    I'OI-AR    WOULD. 


to  its  iitiiiitst  limits;  sciireely  has  a  suspicious  word  fallen 
amon^'  tho  Avorkmcn,  wlieii  tiie  director  is  iiniiiediatidy  iii- 
forui.'d  of  it,  iind  tiikcs  liis  measures  accordin<4ly.  Every 
man  knows  that  In'  is  walclu'd,  and  is  liimself  a  spy  u])on  liis 
companions. 

irofntan  r(.'1;it(.'s  im  instance  of  a  ]>I()t  siuL^'ularly  nipped 
in  tin-  ImkI.  in  (»ni.'  of  tlie  g'()ld-di;4';4'in<js  on  the  Koiha, 
the  -wovlcnicn,  at  tlie  insti;4'ation  of  an  under-ovevsccr,  had 
ret'nx'il  lo  p(n'f'oi'm  a  task  assi<^'ned  to  tliem.  It  was  to 
be  I'carcd  Ihat  1lii'  spirit  of  insul)ordination  would  ^-aiu 
g'ronnd.  an<l  exicnd  <ivi'r  ail  the  nei;.>'ld)ourinn' dio-o-ino's.  The 
direi-tor,  consLM|u<Miil_v,  sent  at  ont-c  for  military  assistance  ; 
this,  liowover,  ]»i'ovetl  to  ho  nnni'ccssai'y,  for  whon  the  (.\>.s- 
sacks  arrived  a  I  the  Xoiha,  a,  thundei'storm  arose,  and  at 
tlic  \-ery  moi\ii'nt  lliov  came  riding'  n[)  to  tlie  diyjj'iny,  a  ilasli 
of  liLi'htnin^'  killed  the  rinii;'leader  in  the  midst  of  the  muti- 
neers. As  soon  as  the  men  recovered  from  the  lirst  shock  of 
tlieir  sur|»rise  and  t(.'rror.  they  all  exclaimed,  'This  is  the 
jud^'inent  of  God  !  '  and,  Avitliout  any  fnrtJier  hc'sitation,  at 
once  returned  t(^)  their  duty. 

Besi(h.'s  free  rations,  tin;  ordinary  wa^'es  of  a  common 
workman  are  I-')  roubles  banco,  or  \'2  j-jhillinn's  a  month,  but 
m(»re  experienced  hands  receive  oO  or  evini  (Jd  r<uibli's.  The 
pay  <lates  from  the  day  wlien  the  w(n-kman  makes  his  appear- 
ance at  the  residence,  and  tluMU'cforward,  also,  his  rations 
are  served  out  to  him.  They  consist  of  a  pound  of  fresh  oi- 
salt-n)eal,  or  an  ('(juisalent  j)ortion  of  lish  on  fasting-days, 
cabba^-e  and  e'roats  for  soup,  bt-sides  fresh  rve-br(>ad  and 
ry/((/.s'  (the  favourite  national  1>ever;iev)  or/  lilniinii.  The 
whole  inuid)er  of  worlcmen  emidoved  in  a  <''old-diu'u'ini''  sub- 
divide  Ihemselves  into  separate  societies,  or  arttdls,  hjachof 
these  (dects  a  (diief.  or  hi'adman.  to  \vliom  the  provisions  for 
his  artel!  are  wei^lieil  ont,  and  to  whom  all  the  other  common 
interests  are  entruste<l.  The  sale  of  spirituous  licpior  is 
strict  ly  forbidden,  lor  its  use  would  ren<li'r  it  impossible  to 
uiaintain  order  ;  and,  accordinii*  to  la  vr.  no  e-in-shop  is  allowed 
to  be  opene(]  within  (10  versts  (d'a  di^'^'inu'. 

'J'he  p;iv  and  llie  liberal  rations  rec('i\('<l  wonld  alone  Ik' 
insuHicient  to  allure  workmen  to  tiie  tlie-yiu^'s,  for,  as  we 
have  seini,  the  voyage  there  and  back  Is  exti'ejuely  irksonie, 
and  the  lal^onr  yovy  fatio'uino-,      ,\n   excelh>nt  plan  hns  oon- 


•d  fill  Ion 

-ti^ly  in- 

Evt'ry 

ipou  his 

'  ni|>iioil 

IS'oiba, 

eer,  luul 

was   to 

lid    i;'ilin 

Li'S.    The 

istiuico  ; 

tlu-  CV.s- 

and  111 

(-,  a  ilas;li 

lie  muti- 

sliock  iA' 

s   is  tlio 

it  ion,  at 

common 

nth,  liut 

'S.     Th." 

nppcav- 

rations 

T*'sh  oi' 

iLi'-ilays, 

'a<l    ami 

^^      Tlu' 

II il:'  snli- 

Kacliol' 

ions  t'.  ir 

•oimiion 

njuor  is 

;sil)lo    111 

allowt  il 

llolio    ll" 

•,  as  wl- 
■k<onii', 
in>  t'on- 


GOLD-niUdERS. 


TM. 


siMjiioiitlj  botMi  devised  for  their  eneonrau'emcnt.  The  con- 
tract of  each  Avorkman  distinctly  specitios  the  (piantify  of 
his  daily  work,  consisting-  (tf  a  certain  nundjcr  of  whecl- 
liiiri'ows  of  sand — from  1(»()  to  12n,  accordinn'  to  tlie  distance 
ef  the  spot  where  it  is  dn^-  to  the  plai-c  wlici-c  it  is  washed 
out — each  roclc(.iii'(l  at  tlirci'  jtonds,-'  whieli  oiio  ])arty  has  to 
lii I.  another  fo  convey  to  the  wash-stands,  ami  a  third  to  wasli. 
Till' lasiv  is  <4'('nrrally  eoinplctrd  hy  noon,  or  cariv  in  the 
lil'ti'i'iioon.  l''oi"  the  iah<Mir  tlioy  pcrlVirin  (hiring'  the  rest  of 
thf  ihiy.  or  on  Sundays  and  holidays,  tlii'V  receive  an  exti'a 
|/;iy  of  two  or  thi'c''  roiiMcs  for  every  sohitiiik  of  Li('ld  thev 
wish.  f]verv  eveninii'  the  Workmen  come  Willi  the  orodnce 
dl  iheir  f'wH'  lahonr  to  the  ottice,  the  li'old  is  weighed  in  their 
jii'cscnce,  a)id  the  artell  credited  for  the  anioiiiit  of  its  share. 
This  fi'i'e-wiirk  is  as  advanta^'eoiis  f.ir  the  ina-ti-rs  as  the 
I  ^.-uri-rs.  The  foi'inei-  enjoy  a  net  ]irolit  of  ei^^'iit  or  t^'U 
ru,;l,!  ^  per  solotnik.  ami  all  the  w<>rkiiui'  expeiises  are  <if 
c'lnrse  put  to  the  charLi'e  of  the  contrai-t  lahour;  ami  the 
l.ite'r  earn  a  j^'reat  deal  of  money,  accordinLi'  to  their  iiidus- 
tiy  or  n'(»o(l-lnek.  for  when  fortune  favours  an  artell.  its  share 
iiiay  amount  to  a  considerable  sum.  Duriun'  lloi'nian's 
stay  at  the  iJiriiss;!.  each  workman  of  a  certain  ar!ell  earne(l 
ia  one  attermion  72  I'oubles.  aial  the  Siinday's  v.ork  of 
aaotlier  of  thest.'  associations  i^ave  t<>  each  (>f  its  meiiilu'rs 
In")  rniibles,  or  I/.  The  artis;ins  -  who,  t houu'h  eiuphiycd  in  a 
'„i'ld-iiiine,  are  not  en<4'a;^'e(|  in  diL;■^■in^•  or  washing  tlh-  ani'i- 
1'  lulls  sand — are  also  rewarded  from  time  \i>  time  b\  a  day's 
fi'i'-labour  in  places  which  ai'e  known  Id  Ite  I'ich.  Hn  one  of 
ti.ese  occasidus  a  ( 'ossack  on  t  he  ( (ktoh  k"  recei\ed  •'!!'»  niiiliks 
I"!' his  share  of  the  ^'old  tliat  was  washed  out  of  [H  \\Iieentar- 
1'.  ,\vs  (if  <;iii(l.  These  of  course  a  re  ext  raordiiia  ry  cases,  but 
liiey,-ho\v  how  much  a  workman  ///-///  niiin:  and  bcin;.;-  of 
("arse  exau'u'erated  bv  I'ejiort.  are  the  chief  iiHlucemeiits 
which  attract  the  workmen,  and  kd'O  them  to  their  duty. 

If  the  free-lal»oiir  is  nnprodiict  ive.  many  ol'  the  workimui 
(li'sei't  or  u'i\e  up  free-labour  altogether,  ami  in  bdtli  cases 
tile  master  is  a  loser.  To  pri'xciit  this,  it  is  customary,  in 
iiiaiiy  of  t  he  diu^iii'j.'s,  to  pay  the  workim'ii  a  lixed  >iim  tor 
llicir  extra  work. 

"   T'lM  pijU'l  i-i  fi|ii!vl  to  10  poiuiila.     Tln'  jiou'i  i^  iliv. '■•I  iutn  OO  sol.>tiiiIis. 


.... 


'2;'(i 


TIIK    POLAIl    WOrwlJ). 


At  tlio  oiul  of  tlu'  season  tlie  workiiu:]!  are  paid  oH',  and  re- 
ceive provisions  for  their  honie-joiirney.  Generally,  the  jao- 
duee  of  their  snnnner's  labour  is  spent,  in  the  hrst  villa^'es  tlicy 
reach,  in  drinking  and  oandjlint^ ;  so  that,  to  be  able  to  return 
to  their  families,  they  are  obli<^'ed  to  bind  themselves  anew 
for  the  next  season,  and  to  receive  hand-money  from  the 
a<4vnt,  who,  knowin<>^  their  weakness,  is  ^-enerally  on  the  spot 
to  take  advanfca<^"e  of  it.  After  spending-  a,  lon<^  winter  full 
of  want  and  privations,  they  rctnrn  to  the  Taij^a  in  sprint;', 
and  thus,  thron<4-h  their  own  folly,  their  life  is  spent  in  con- 
stant misery  and  hard  labour. 

])nvin<>-  the  winter  the  di<^'<4'in<:r  i>^  deserted,  except  by  an 
nnder-overseer  and  a  few  wor.  men,  who  make  the  necessaiv 
l)reparations  for  the  next  campaijjfn,  receive  and  warehouse 
tlie  provisions  as  they  arrive,  and  guard  the  property  againsl 
thieves  or  wanton  destruction.  The  npper-overseer  or  di- 
rector, meainvhile,  is  fully  occupied  at  the  residence,  in  foi- 
warding  the  provisions  and  stores  that  hiive  arrived  there 
during  the  summer  to  the  i  line,  in  making  the  necessary 
purchases  for  the  next  year,  in  sending  Ids  agents  about  tlie 
country  to  engage  new  workmen;  and  thus  the  winter  is,  in 
fact,  his  busiest  time.  AVith  the  last  sledge  transport  lie 
returns  to  the  digging,  to  receive  the  workmen  as  they 
arrive,  and  to  see  that  all  is  ready  for  the  summer.  As  his 
situation  is  one  of  great  trust  and  responsibility,  he  enjoys  ii 
considerable  salary.  Maesnikow,  for  instance,  paid  his  chief 
director  ■1(),000  roubles  a  year;  and  (5,00(1  or  S,(»()(|  roubles, 
bt'sides  free  station,  and  a  percentage  of  the  gold  [trocbiced, 
is  the  oi'dinary  emolument. 

It  is  thus  evident  that  the  ex])enses  of  a  Siberian  gold- 
mine are  enormous,  but  when  foi'lune  favours  the  under- 
taker he  is  uni[>ly  rewarch'd  for  his  outlay:  an  annuiil 
produce  of  10,  1 '>,  or  lio  ponds  of  gold  is  by  no  menus  un- 
common. In  tlu'  year  1S!.*>,  |.')S  workmen  eni|d(»yed  in  tli'' 
gold-mine  of  iAFariinsk,  Ixdonging  to  Messrs.  (Jolulxlow  and 
Kusnezow,  produced  Si  ponds  j'.'.'j  |l)s.  of  the  (nn(di-eo\eli  d 
metal;  in  the  year  1S|:>  the  mine  (d'  ()iginsk.  lndougiuL;'  tn 
rii(Miteiiant  Mak'winsky,  yi(ddi'<l  S'J  pouds  ;!7j  II>s.  ;  and  in 
IS  II',  the  laboured'  1,01  I  worknien,  cniployeil  in  the  ndiie  e)' 
In  resdowosdwishensk,  bidoiiiiiug  (o  Messrs.  Kusne/o\v  and 
8chtscliegolow,  produced  no  less  than  S7  |»ivhl>  11  |b>.  of  gold. 


fiOLD-PUODUCI':    OF    SinKHIA. 


•J.tT 


tli*.'  prii- 

torotuni 
'OS  iiiimv 
V(»lll  llic 
the  spot 
iiitor  full 
I  sprinu', 
;  in  C'ou- 

pt  Ly  ;ni 

lecessiirv 

arelioiist' 

y  ii^i'aiiisl 

vv  or  (li- 

(',  ill  t'oi'- 

/ed  tlici't' 

iiocessiirv 

ibout  till' 

tor  is,  ill 

1  sport  he 

as    tlicy 

As  Ills 

enjoys  ;i 

liis  ('lutt' 

roubles. 

iroduccd, 

an  <j;oltl- 
uiidt'i- 
I    aniiuiil 

llllS  IMl- 
1  ill  l!i 
(loAV  i!ll<l 
l-roVt'li'il 
lio'ili;^'  \" 
;  imkI  III 
■  mine  of 
/(•w  aii'l 


Hut  even  Kresdowosdwislionsk  lias  boon  clisiaiioo(T  by  ilic 
mine  of  8j)asky,  situated  near  the  sources  of  tlie  IVskiii, 
wliii'h,  ill  the  year  IS  12,  yielded  its  fortunate  possessor,  the 
aliove-nientioncd  Counsellor  Nikita  Maesnikow  (one  of  the 
t'i'w  men  \vlio  wdi-  already  extremely  rich  before  the  Sib(>- 
riiiii  aurilerons  deposits  were  dis(;overod),  the  onornions  quaii- 
lity  of  loo  ponds  of  ^'old  !  From  ISIO  to  ISl."),  Maesnikow 
extracted  from  this  mine  no  less  than  ;>  18  ponds  (I  ll)s.  of  <;'olil, 
worth  I,!:}."),!?  !■  silver  roubles,  or  about  0 10,000/.  Still 
mure  recently,  in  18()0,  the  Gawrilow  inino,  belono'in<4'  to  the 
lii'usc  of  Kjasanow.  produced  l02^-  ponds  of  pure  <4'old, 

l)iit  in  Liberia,  as  elsewhere,  miniiiL;*  operations  are  fre- 
uciitly  doomed  to  end  in  disappointment,  particularly  if  the 
.  }ia(*e  destined  to  be  worked  in  the  folk) win <:;■  summer  has  not 
been  carefully  examined  beforehand,  as  th<?  ore  is  often  very 
uiu'([ually  distributed.  A  speculator,  liavin^'  discovered  a 
■jold-mine,  examined  four  or  live  samples  of  the  sand,  which 
"■;uc  a  hiu'hlv  satisfactory  result.  Deliu'lited  with  his  u'ood 
fcrtiuie,  he  made  his  arrangements  on  a  grand  scale,  and 
collected  provisions  for  500  workmen  ;  but  when  operations 
began,  it  was  fouml  that  he  had,  unfortiuuitel}',  hit  upon  a, 
siii;iil  [latch  of  auriferous  sand,  the  vi'/inity  of  which  was 
tutiiliy  void  of  gold,  so  that  his  500  workmen  produced  no 
more  than  a  foAV  pounds  of  ore,  and  lie  lost  at  least  10,000/. 
liy  his  adventure. 

The  entire  gold  produce  of  East  Sibt>ria  amounted,  in 
1  ^  15.  to  S  IH  ponds  ;}()  lbs.,  and  in  1S5(>  to  about  1,100  jiouds  ; 
lint  latterly,  in  consequence  of  the  increasing  wages  and 
(learness  of  provisions,  wliic'i  has  caused  uiany  of  the  less 
productive  mines  to  b».^  al)andoned,  it  has  somewhat  dinii- 
iiislied.  Ill  lS(i(i,  :{K700  men,  Dl'J  Avonien,  and  s, 751  horses 
and  oxen,  were  employed  in  the  Siberian  goM-inines. 

\s  iiiav  easily  be  imagined,  the  discovery  of  these  sources 
<||  wc.ilth  in  the  desert  has  caused  a.  great  rexolutidii  in  the 
secial  statt'  of  >il«'ria.  The  riclies  so  suddenly  ae«piired  iiy 
;i  few  favourites  of  fortune,  have  raised  luxury  to  an  un- 
'  xaiiipled  height,  and  ei;courage«l  a  senseless  prodigality. 
>>"iae  strrlt't.^'''  liavinu'  been  otiered  f<'r  oOO  roubles  to  a  miner 


2.'5S 


TIIK    H)\..\\{    UOIIM*. 


.suddenly  raised  I'niiii  penury  to  Avenll]i,  '  Fool  !  *  said  iho 
n[)s1art.  v>i11i  t]ie  superb  mien  ef  a  (•(•nqueriii^-  liern.  io  llic 
iisli-dealer,  '  wilt  lliou  sell  me  tliesc  <\\cellent  sterlets  so 
che'apy  Here  are  a  tJioiisand  roubles  ;  !Ji<»,  and  say  that  tli(ni 
hast  dealt  with  hn- ! ' 

The  small  lowii  of  Krasnojarsk,  remautically  siiualed  on 
the  Jenisei,  is  the  (diief  seat  ol'  Ihe  rich  miners,  liorc  may 
be  seen  the  ehoieest  toilettes,  the  nntst  showy  ec[uipaci'es, 
and  ehanipayne  (which  in  Sil)eria  costs  at  least  1/.  a  ItoHt. 
is  th(»  daily  beveray,'e  of  the  ^^nld  aristocracy.  Uiifortii- 
natelv.  Krasnoiarsk  had,  iintil  Aerv  recent Iv,  not  a  .sin<>'lo 
bookselhf's  sh()[)  to  bnast  <d';  and  Avliile  thousands  weri' 
]avishe(l  (in  vanity  and  sensual  enjoyments,  Jiot  a  rdubk'  was 
devoted  to  tlie  im]>rovement  of  the  mind. 

Less  rich  in  tj'old  than  the  ]>rnvince  of  -Teniseislc.  bui 
richer  in  c(>;)[)er  and  ii'on,  and  al.)«ive  all  in  ])1,itina,  is  t!ic 
T'ral,  where  minini;'  industry  Avas  first  iiitroduci'd,  by  Peter 
the  Ui'cat.  in  the  last  years  of  the  seventeeinli  century,  auil 
lias  since  aci|uired  a,  colossal  development.  'rhonuli  ^(.111 
was  discovered  i)i  tl;e  I'ralian  province  of  I'ermia  as  early  as 
I"!').  Act  its  ]ii'odnction  on  a  lar^'e  scaii-  is  of  more  modern 
date,  in  tlie  year  lsl(i.  th"  whole  quantity  of  o-,,|,l  fnrnishei] 
by  tlu'Uj'al  aniounled  only  to  •')  ponds  :)•')  lbs.,  while  in  l,s;M.  ii 
iiad  inei'eascd  to   lO-*)  pouds. 

The  di.M  ^ery  of  the  precious  metals  on  the  estates  of  the 
lar^-e  mine-proprietdrs  of  the  Ural,  who  already  before  that 
time  were  amoni;"  the  wealthiest  men  of  the  empire,  has  in- 
creased their  ricdies  to  an  enormous  ext.-nt,  and  j^-iven  an 
European  celeln-ity  to  the  names  of  Jakowlew  and  Demidci}]'. 
Werdi  Isselsk  and  Werchne  Taii,'ilslc.  in  the  ]irovince  of 
Periuia,  lieloni^ann"  to  the  .Fakowlew  family,  have  an  o'tent  of 
more  than  three  millions  of  aci'es.  with  a  pope.iation  of 
11,0(M>  souls.  Besides  iron  au'l  '-opper.  their  (diiei'  pr<jducc. 
Ihese  estates  yielded,  in  l'~^:II.  ■'}><  ]iouds  of  ;^'o!d. 

XishMc-'l'a«4ilsk,  belonp-iii;^',  since  I7_'").  to  the  Deniidolf-. 
is  ;i  still  more  ma^'i'Mici'iit  po>session  ;  foi-  i(  may  truly  he 
said,  that  perhaps  uciwiiere  in  the  worid  are  ^Teater  mi- 
neral riches  conL;'re:^ated  in  one  spot  than  here,  where, 
be^idi's  \as(  (|uantities  of  iron  and  cojipei-,  the  washiuL;'  el' 
the  sands  produced,  in   l^'il',  no   lis.-,   than  'J'.'  ponds  of  e-oM. 


I 


said   ilio 

i».    to    llli' 

ci'lcts   So 
that  thou 

nated  on 
it'To  may 
[[uii.ag'cs, 
a  bottli') 
Uiifoi-tn- 
a  (sinu'li* 
lids  woiv 
inl)l(.'  uas 

'I'isL',  linl 
a,  is  tlio 
hy  PotiT 
uiT.  aiiil 
1114I1  Li;<'M 
>  cai'lv  as 
'  iiiddcni 
I'liriiishi'i] 
11  Ks;;  |.  it 

fS  of  tlio 

lure  that 
,  has  ii)- 
^iveu  au 
Jeinidoir. 
n'iuco  <  if 
oxtoiit  of 
lati(»n  (if 
^irodiU'  . 

finiih^n"';, 

■  iruly  !"' 
atcr   nii- 

'.     wllct'i'. 

ishiuy  "il 


SIi;i;iiiA\    (.t>M)-AKlST()(|JA('V 


:if) 


mid  11  :J  ponds  :]  ll)s.  of  platina.  The  ostato  oxtoiids  ov.m-  I'.air 
iidllioiis  of  aeivs,  and  its  jH.pulatiou,  in  1 -:;  I-,  aiiK.uiil.'d  to 
2t>,()U0  souls. 

The  town  of  Nislme-Ta;>-iislc  has  altont  ir..(i(i(i  inhal>itan<s, 
and  Helmersen  (•Travels  in  tjie  L'ral'i  j.rais.s  Ww  Denii- 
(lotis  for  their  zeal  in  earrvin--  tin"  eiviiisat  ion  of  Europe  to 
the  wilds  of  the  Ural.  In  an  .'xe.'hont  olcni.a,i;irv  srlmul, 
l.')0  hoys  are  eh)thed,  fed,  and  r(lnciit,.d  al  Hi. mi-  c.\|KMise. 
Tlu.se  pupils  who  disrin_L;-,n":,h  llioiii.s.'lv.'s  hy  iln-ir  ai-ilitics 
are  then  sent  to  a  hio-her  .scIpm.I.  siicli  i,s  tl,e  D^'ini.idtf 
lAceuin  in  Jaroslaw,  or  the  rniv..'V.sity  uf  Idosrow.  and  aflrr 
the  termination  of  their  stnd.ies  obtain  a-  situation  on  lli-.' 
estates  of  the  family.  The  palace  of  the  l),.nnil«.lfs  has  a 
fine  colleelion  of  paintino-s  by  tji,.  first  Italian  masters;  but 
ir  is  seldom  if  evt^r  inhabited  l)y  the  ]»i'(.prielors.  wlio  jir*  f.'i- 
I'l^irener  Taris  to  the  Ural.     The  j'.anid  m-  of  the  faiiii!v 

was  an  emmont  ,^-u,isniith  of  the  town  of  Tida,  v>Iio>c  ;ilM]i'- 
ties  o-ained  him  the  favour  of  Peter  the  (ireat.  and  tlie  oiff 
eftho  mines  on  whidi  Hie  colossal  fertinieof  his  de.seeudants 
has  beeji  raised. 


I    I 


'■■i^' 


I  ' 


M  M^^'-  2 


i_li'  up  ol  l-ii;S3i;iu  i.oiijV'.s. 


CIIAPTEE  XVTTT. 

mtddendoeff's  adventures  in  taimurland. 

I'ur  what  rm'i'oso  was  ^liiMi'iulnrfTs  Vdviifii'  lo  'I'ainHirlaiid  iindcilakoii  ?  I>illi- 
cultii's  iiiiil  Olistai'lcs  -  l']x}i('diti<m  down  the 'raiiiuir  Hiwr  to  thi'  I'olar  Sea  — 
iStfii-m  on  'rainmr  Lake — Loss  of  tlie  IJoat — ^lidthMuhjrJl'  ill  and  alnnc  in  TV 
N.  Lat. — Savid  by  ii  grateful  Samojcdc-Cliniato  and  Wgctation  of  Tainnii'- 
land. 

ON  following'  tlio  contours  of  the  Siboriun  const,  wcfind,  in 
the  east  of  Novaya  Zenilya,  a  vast  tract  of  territory 
projecting-  towards  the  Pole,  and  extending  its  promontories 
far  into  the  Icy  sea.  This  country — which,  from  its  princi- 
pal river,  may  be  called  Taimurland — is  the  most  nortliern. 
and,  I  need  hardly  add,  the  most  inhospitable  part  of  tlie  <  >M 
World.  The  last  huts  of  the  Russian  lishermen  are  situated 
about  the  mouth  of  the  Jenisei,  but  the  Avhole  territorv 
of  the  Tainuu-  river,  and  the  regions  traversed  l)y  the  lowti' 
course  of  the  Cliatanga  and  the  Piisina,  are  completely  uiiiii- 
bited. 

Even  along  the  upper  course  of  these  two  lasi -named  i-ivers. 


MIDDKNDoUri'S    ADVKNTfKKS. 


241 


tilt'  j^'^P^i'ii^tiou  is  ('xi'ciMliiin-ly  sciiiity  aiitl  sciittcrotl ;  ;nul  ilio 
I'lW  Sinu(»jt'(lt's  wild  nii^'i'jid'  diirin^'  tlic  sniniiifi'  (o  the  l)iiiil<.s 
nf  ilie  Tiiiiiiui',  i;'!;hllv  li'iivi-  tlifiii  ;it  tlic  ;i  jiin'tiiicli  of  winter, 
I  lit' cold  of"  which  no  t  hci'mniiictcr  has  ever  iiii'iisni'cd.  As 
may  ("iisily  bo  iniim'iiH'il,  'raimm-hiiid  has  hut  few  altriictioii.s 
fur  the  lra(h'r  or  tlio  I'lir-huutor,  hut  I'w  the  natiu'alist  il  is 
liv  ii(»  moans  without  intorost. 


oW 


(III 


II 


IICl', 


Wo  have  aevn  in  a  I'ornior  chaptor  h 
|ii(ini[ito(l  by  tlio  disiutoivstcd  h)vo  ot"  simouco,  tra\i'lh'd  to 
Xdvaya  Zoinlya,  to  o.xaniiiio  the  productions  (d'a  cnlil  lusuliir 
siniuucr,  beyond  tlio  Tntli  derive  of  latituih'.  T'.ie  instruc- 
tive results  ol'  his  journey  fudered  it  doubly  desirable  io 
(ilitain  int'oriiuttion  aljout  ^ic  cirocls  of  sunnnor  in  a  cnnll- 
innliil  climate,  situated  it'  jiossible  still  farther  to  the  north; 
;iiid  as  no  ree;iou  coidd  be  better  suited  to  this  ](ur[iose  than 
till'  inieri(»r  ol'thu  broad  mass  of  Tainiurlaiid,  the  Academy  of 
Sciences  of  8t.  Pett.'rsbure-  resolved  to  send  tiiither  a  scientific 


ex 


peditiou.      Fortunately  for  the  succ(»ss  ol'  the  undertakiuL;', 
Veil    ]Middeii(]ortl',    the    eminent    naturalist,   "whosi'   otfer    of 


,-la<lly 


accep 


ted. 


was  in  every  respect  the  ri 


rht 


sirvjce  \vas   l 

man  in  the  I'ieht  place;  for  to  the  most  iiutirine-  scientific 
/.'•al,  and  an  mnvaverine-  determination,  he  Joined  a  [thysical 
slreiii^lh  and  a.  manual  dexterity  rarely  found  miited  with 
li'aniiiiy-.  In  the  Jraplaiid  luoors  he  had  learned  to  l)i\onac 
t'lr  ni^'hts  toj^'ethei',  while  chasine,-  the  waterfowl,  and  (»n 
I'eei  ho  was  able  to  tire  the  best-trained  Avah-iis-hnnter.  lie 
iimlei'stood  how  to  eoustrnct  a  boat,  ami  to  steer  it  with  his 
ewii  hand,  and  every  beast  or  bird  was  dctonu'd  that  came 
within  reach  of  his  unerrini^'  ball.  In  one  Avord,  no  traveller 
cvei-  [)luno'ed  into  the  Arctic  wilds  more  independent  of  bae-- 
U'liu'c,  followers,  or  the  means  of  transport. 

On  A[)ril  I  we  liud  i\IiddeiHh)i'fl',  accompanied  by  ]\Ii'. 
iiraiidt,  a  Danish  forester,  and  a  siiiule  ser\ant.  on  the  ice  of 
the  .jeiiisei  bt'tween  Turnchaiisk  and  Inidiiio.  jieiv  his 
'■"liipauions  Avere  attacketl  Ity  mea.sles;  but  as  it  was  liiLih 
trine  to  rcatdi  the  ('hataiiiia  before  the  niidtine-  of  the  snow, 
;lie  patients  we're  i-aivl'ully  paclve<l  up  in  boxes  lined  with 
^l:iiis,  and  the  whole  party — Avhose  nnndjers,  nicaii\vhil(%  had 
lireii  increased  hy  the  addition  of  ;i  topoeTaj)her  and  of  three 
Cossacks — enujrii'ed  from  the  re^'ion  of  forests  on  A]iril    1;{, 


'24-2 


Tin:    I'oLAIi    WuKI.I), 


]i;iviiin"  l(»  tiicf  ii  cold  of  —:!(!',  mnl  ii  stoi'in  tluil  iiliiiusi 
(•wrt  iinicd  their  slcd^'cs.  With  'riiii^iMisc  ^'iiidcs  thi'V  tr.i- 
Vci'SL'd  tlic  tiiiidiM  ill  ii  iiitrth-i'iisti'rlv  dii'fct  idii  iis  tar  ii-^  thi' 
I'i'isiiia,  and  thciicc  passiii;^'  uii  tVom  oin'  Saiiiojcih'  hniih' 
to  allot iicr,  at  Ii'iii4'th  reached  l\oroiiiioje  Fiii|)|((t\vsk(ij  (71  ■">' 
lilt.)  on  tlie  iJii^Miiida,  an  atlliient  of  the  Cheta,  which  ']< 
itself  a  tril)ntar_v  <»f  the  rhataii^'a.  Here  a  lialt  was  made, 
pai'tiy  heeansL!  all  the  ['arty  cxcejit  JNIiddendortf  were  l»y  this 
time  attacked  with  tin-  ivi;4'iiiii^'  ej)idemic,  and  partly  t<»  wait 
for  the  Sainojedes,  whom  they  iiiteialed  to  join  on  their 
suuinier  niiy-ration  to  the  north,  liiiriim- this  interval  .Mid- 
dendorlV  made  an  excursion  t<»  tlie  ('liatanLi'a.  for  the  pnriMisc 
of  u'al  hei-iiiLi'  inrorinal  ion  ah(mt  the  voya^'e  down  that  ri\(  r. 
and  to  make  the  necessary  |>re|tarations.  In  the  viliaLi'e  d' 
( "hataiiusk,  linwcvei-,  he  found  nearly  all  the  inhaliitanl; 
.sntferin;^'  from  the  measles,  and  as  no  a-^si.staiice  was  to  he 
oxpcH'ted  from  them,  he  resctlved  to  alter  his  ront(>.  and  u> 
])roei'(>d  as  soon  as  jiossihle  io  the  ri\cr  Taimnr,  ^Yllicll  wouM 
in  all  prohahility  alVord  him  ihe  hest  means  for  peiietiM;  in^' 
to  th(>  e.\t  I'eine  confines  of  cont  iicnl.!  I  Asia.  As  this  most 
'iiDfl/nrli/  river  of  the  old  world  lies  far  heyoiid  the  homi- 
diiries  of  aihoreal  <4'rowlh,  a  1/oat  Irame  of  twi'lve  feet  oii 
ihe  keel  had  to  he  made  at  Jvoroinioje  before  scltiiiL;'  oiil. 
Brandt  was  left  Ijohind,  Avitli  ])art  of  tii"  conqiany,  to  make  a 
jn'olon^'cd  series  of  nK'tooroloLi'ical  observat  ions,  and  to  m-jI  hs' 
as  com[ih'te  a  collection  as  possilde  of  the  aniniais  aii'i 
]ilants  ol"  the  ronnl!'y,  wdiilo  Aliddendoi'ff  started  on  Li,-;  a  1- 
Aontnrons  toni'  (ATay  l!>),  with  .•;ixiy-eiuht  reindeer,  tinder  tin' 
"I'liidanci'  of  a  i'ew  Samoiedes  on  llieir  proLi'ri'ss  to  the  n<»i'tii. 
aiid  aecoiiipanied  only  by  tin'  toitojjrapher,  an  inlcvpr;)- i'. 
and  t  w^i  ( 'ossacks.  The  dillicnlties  of  this  jonriiey,  since  ;i 
buat-franie,  fuel,  provisions,  physical  insli-iiiiienls,  ap[';!iM- 
tuses  for  the  2'^'t''>''i'^i''^i""  ''1^'  ohji'''<s  of  natural  history, 
loi'min'j,'  altoevtlier  a  load  for  many  sled^-es,  had  to  be  ti'aiis- 
]K)rtcd  alont^-  with  the  travellers,  would  have  been  u'l'i'at  ;ii 
all  times,  but  were  now  c<»n<iderab!y  increased  by  i!i.' 
epidemic  having:"  also  seized  the  tribe  of  Saniojedes   wl 


llrll 


owajM 


Midden(h»rtt'  expeeted  to  lind  near  the  small  river  N 

and  Avhich  was  to  ^aiide  him  farther  on  to  the  Taimnr.      Ai 

lenLjIh,  after  a  search  of  three  days,  lu^  fouml  the  reiiinaiil  " 


11   * 


lev    llM- 
V  ;is  till' 

(•        llMl'll' 

ivllicll     i- 
IS   lIC.uli'. 

.   l.y  11ii> 

,'   t(»    Willi 

(111    llii'ir 

vn\   Mi'l- 
puriMiM' 

i:ii  riv(i\ 

r.iliit  ;i  111  - 
as  lo  III' 
',  atiil  '" 
ell  Wdni'l 
net  rat  iiiL;' 

llis  IIH'-I 
IC  ii((U:l- 
'    I'ci't     n,l 

tiii'_f  oii'i. 
(t  iiial';*'  :i 

to  '_>m1  li'i' 

iiiais  ai.'l 
m  llis  a  i- 
iinliT  1  li-' 

10    THM'i  II. 
i'Vj>r;'1'  i'. 

,  siiii-i'  11 
ai.i-ar;!- 
histuiT. 
In'  traii^- 
U'lvai  ;i! 
hy  lin- 
t's will' ii 
Nuwaja. 
iiinr.  Ai 
•uiMaiit  "! 


V|(  ISSITIDKS    n|'    TIIWI'I,. 


•241 


I  111'  liKi'd',  wliidi  liail  iM'.'ii  (Icciiiiatcil  ami  I'l'iliici'il  to  a  di'- 
I'IhimMc  CI » 1 1(1  it  i(. II  l>y  t  lie  r|iii|i'iiiic.     1 II  vain  ill'  sdU'^'lil  for  tin' 

W  I  ll-kll<  i\Vll   fares  iti'  the    cliici"   |ii'|Sn|ia;^i'S  <i|'   till'  linr<lf.  with 

wliiiiii  he  had  ii("^""tiati'<l  mii  t  Ih'  ilnj^Miiiila — '  ihcy  wrrf  all 
ilraih'  (  >t't  liirty-li\('  imtsohs,  oin'  niily  was  ci 'in  plct  civ  healthy  ; 
a  seciiiid  eiiuM  hardly  ei-awl  ahoiit;  hut  the  dth'TS  la_\  ja'os- 
tiMte  ill  their  teiit-<.  ct 'iiL;'h i iil;'  and  '_:'i''»aiiiiiL;'  niider  their  skiii 

t  ii\  I'l'inU'S.       lit'il  villLl"    seven     eorpses     i>ll     the    I'oad.    they    liail 

ad\aiici'd  hy  slow  jduriH'ys  to  Ji»in  M  iildeiidi>i"ll',  until  they 
lireLe  down.  s(»  that,  instead  of  I'eceivinLf  iiitl  at  their  hands, 
lie  was  now  (»hlii4-ed  til  help  t  lii'iii  in  t  h  'ir  (list  n-ss  aiiassist- 
aiH-c  wliieh  they  a  ply  repaid,  as  wo  shall  set.*  In  tho 
sri|iiel. 

I  iit'ei'tiinately  the  ilhies-;  had  pi'evented  the  SaiiK ije(l(^ 
weiiieii  IVdiM  sewing"  tiio'rther,  as  they  hail  pri'iiiised,  iIk; 
>l\ilis  that  Wel'e  iieee,>^ai'V  1o  ciiniplete  the  e*  i\  fl'i  ii^;'  <  d'  the 
tiM\e|jeis'  tent,  si i  that  ihev  had  niueh  to  srJl'er  diirinu-  a. 
NJeji'iii  snow-st'ii-ni.  wliieh  raLi'ed  IVoni  May  27  to  :!(►.  'I'lius 
at't'T  another  hmj^-  di-lay  and  an  irieparalile  loss  ot"  time, 
ie'isIdeiinL;"  the  extrenu'  shnrluess  nf  the  sninnier.  .\riddeii- 
iliiftrwas  nut  ahle  to  >iiiiri  IVuni  tin'  Xuwaja  liet'ui'e  May  ol. 
'I  111'  sol*teniii>4"  of  tlie  sni>w  remh'i'ed  the  advaiici,'  of  the 
sli'iln'cs  ('xt)vmt'ly  dillieult.  so  that  it  was  not  helufe  June  1  !• 
tli;it  lie  I'eaehed  the  'i'aiiiiui'  at  a  eoiisiderahle  distanee  ahiive 
the  piiiiit  whevi'  tin;  river  disidiai'e'es  its  waters  intn  tlie  lake. 
I]iii'a!iipiii'4' on  n  steep  deeli\ity  of  its  l»aid<.  .M  iddendortt*  imw 
Set  ahuut  imil  linj^'  his  hoat.  ( )ii  June  :»(>,  the  iee  nn  tiie  I'iver 
h'  .;;iii  to  lirealc  up.  and  on  .Iiijy  .'>.  the  na\i'4'ation  nt'  tlie 
slrcaiii  was  free.  iJy  the  liL:hi  of  the  midiii^dit  sun  the  hoat 
v.is  laiimdied,  aii<l  ehristeiied  * 'I'he  Tundra.''  to  eommi'mo- 
rate  the  dilHeiiltit'S  of  its  eoiistruetioii  in  the  deserts  of  71^ 
N.  !at.  (Jonstaiit  north  winds  retardeil  tin'  voyaLi'e  down  the 
ri\''r  iuid  over  the  lal<i',  heymid  whieh  the  'raiiuur.  traversing- 
a  hilly  couiitry,  is  cuelosed  within  steep  and  piet  uresque 
ri'il'is.  The  iiK-reasiiie-  rapidity  of  the  >treain  now  fa\oin'ed 
'lie  travellers,  and  the  storms  wi'rc  less  trouhlesonie  hetween 
till' mi'^-hty  roi-k-walls  ;  but  unfort  unati  ly  M  idilendorlf.  in- 
^le.id  of  heiiiw'  able,  as  he  had  expected,  to  till  his  nets  with 
li-h  as  he  advanced,  and  to  establish  depot  s  foi-  his  return 
.l"".riiey.  found  himself  ol(lii_>'ed  to  eousunie  the  |U'ovisions  he 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY    I4S80 

(716)  872-4503 


^ 


^ 


■244 


THK    I'OLAU   WOULD. 


had  taken  with  him  in  the  boat.  On  An«,ni.st  (5,  the  first 
night  frost  took  place,  and  from  that  lime  was  regniarly 
repeated.  Yet  in  spite  of  these  waniin<j^H,  MiihU-iidortl' 
continued  his  journey  down  the  river,  and  reached  the  s«'ii 
on  August  21,  in  70°  N.  lat.  But  now  it  was  high  time  to 
return. 

'  The  fear  of  k'aving  my  nndt.'rtaking  half  unfinished,' 
says  Middendortf,  'had  hithei'to  encouraged  me  to  perse- 
vere. The  great  distance  frt>m  any  Iiunum  habitation,  tin- 
rapid  stream,  against  which  we  had  now  to  contend,  and  the 
advanced  season,  with  its  approaching  dark  nights  and 
frosts,  made  our  return  an  imperative  necessity,  and  I  could 
liave  but  little  reliance  on  our  remaining  strength.  The 
insufficient  food  and  the  fatigues  of  our  journey,  often 
prolonged  to  extreme  exhaustion,  had  reduced  our  vigour, 
and  we  all  began  to  feel  the  ettects  of  our  frequent  wadini,' 
through  cold  water,  wdien,  as  often  happene<l,  our  boat  hiul 
grounded  upon  a  shallow,  or  when  the  flat  mud  banks  of  the 
river  gave  us  no  other  alternative  for  reaching  the  dry  land. 
It  was  now  also  the  second  month  since  we  had  not  slept  inider 
a  tent,  having  all  the  time  passed  the  nights  behind  a  screen 
erected  on  the  oars  of  the  boat,  as  a  shelter  against  the  wind. 
Provided  with  a  good  load  (»f  drift-wood,  collected  on  the 
shore  of  the  Polar  Ocean,  we  began  our  return  voyiige  on 
August  26.  The  borders  of  the  river  were  already  encrusted 
with  ice.  Wading  became  extremely  irksome,  the  river 
having  meanwhile  fallen  above  six  feet,  and  the  shallows 
frequently  forcing  us  to  step  into  the  water,  and  pull  the 
boat  along. 

'  Fortunately  the  wind  remained  favourable,  and  thus  In- 
rowing  to  the  utmost  of  our  strength,  and  with  the  assistance 
of  the  broad  sails  <»f  cmr  "  Tundra,"  we  surmounted  two  rapids 
Avhich,  encased  between  abrupt  rocks,  seemed  to  defy  our  ut- 
most efforts. 

*0n  the  'Jlst,  a  malicious  gust  of  wind,  bursting  out  of  a 
narrow  gorge,  threw  our  boat  against  the  rocks  and  broke  the 
rudder.  The  frost  and  wet,  together  with  the  shortness  of 
our  provisions,  tried  us  s(>rely.  Not  a  day  passed  without 
sleet  and  snow. 

'  On  September  '»,  while  endeavouring  to  double  during   i 


Loss    nr   THK    IK) AT. 


24.1 


vi(»l('ut  storm  a  rockv  island  at  the  nortliorn  »'xtivinit}  of 
li  ikc  Taimur,  oiu.  wave  at'tor  another  dasla'd  into  tlio  boat, 
whicli  I  oonld  onlysavo  by  letting'  lior  run  upon  a  Sinul-ltanlc. 
Tilt'  vi<»l«'nt  wind,  with  a  toni|M'ratnr('  of  only  -i  '27°  at  noon, 
ccvcn'd  our  clotlu'S  with  solid  ice-crusts.  Wo  wcri'  ohli^'cd 
to  hiilt  foin* days  till  the  storm  ceased  ;  (»ur  n<'ts  and  my  dctuble- 
liiirrelled  jj^un  ]»roved  <hiily  more  and  moreunsuecessfnl,  so  that 
iiuu^'er  combined  with  cold  to  renchn*  our  situation  ;ilmost  in- 
tolerable. On  the  Sth,  while  on  the  look-out  f«>r  }»tarnii;^an, 
1  siiw  throuufh  my  telescope  a  lon^  stripe  of  silver  stretching 
over  the  lake,  and  retmniinyr  to  mv  comriuh's  informed  them 
iliat  we  must  absolutely  set  oft'  again  the  next  morning,  re- 
L:;;r<lless  of  wind  and  weather. 

'  On  the  following  dav  the  ominous  indications  of  the  tele- 
scope  rendered  it  necessary  to  approach  tlie  more  open 
west  side  of  the  lake;  whicli  I  followed  until  stopped  by  the 
ice,  along  whose  borders  I  then  saih'd  in  order  to  reach  the 
river,  which  must  still  be  open.  Mt'anwhile  the  wind  had 
tompletely  fallen,  and  to  our  astonishment  we  saw  the  water 
ill  our  wake  cover  itself  with  a  thin  crust  of  ice  as  soon  as 
\vi>  passed.  The  danger  of  freezing  fast  in  the  middle  of  the 
liike  was  evident." 

Unfortunately,  while  endeavouring  to  reach  the  river,  th(^ 
I'oat  was  crushed  between  two  ice  tloes,  and  was  with  great 
•litHcultv  dratrjred  on  shore.  The  onlv  chance  of  rescue  now 
was  to  meet  with  some  Samojedes  on  the  upper  course  of 
the  river,  for  these  nomads  never  wander  northwards  be- 
yond the  southern  extremity  of  the  lake,  and  from  this  our 
travellers  were  still  at  a  great  distance. 

'We  made  a  large  hand-sledge,'  continues  i^Fiddendortf,  'and 
set  otf  without  loss  of  time  on  the  loth,  in  sj»ite  of  the  rainy 
weather,  whicli  had  completely  dissolvi'd  the  sparing  snow 
ii|ion  the  hills.  The  sharp  stones  cut  into  our  sledge-runners 
lilo'  knives,  and  after  having  scarcely  made  three  versts,  the 
Vehicle  fell  to  pieces.  The  bad  weather  forced  us  to  stop  foi* 
11h'  night.  The  fatiffues  of  our  boat  j(»urmy,  the  want  of 
pvojM'r  food,  and  mental  anxiety,  had  f(»r  several  weeks  been 
niulermining  my  health:  a  total  want  of  sleep  destroyed 
tlh'  remainder  (»f  my  strength,  so  that,  early  on  the  11th.  I 
I'ejl  myself  (piite  unable  to  proceed." 


24(i 


TlIK    Vo\.\R    WOlU.lt. 


Ill  this  oxhvinity  ^Sfiddoiidorft'  iidojitcd  Avitli  hcniic  sclf- 
(Iciiial  the  bi'st  and  oiilv  iiiciiiis  for  liis  own  prcstrvalion  ami 
that  oi'his  <'(»iiira»1<'s.  If,  l>y  (h'partiu;^'  without  loss  ot'tiiiic. 
they  wort!  I'ort iiiiatc  enough  to  reach  tiic  Saniojfih'S  hclotv 
tht'st'  iioinads  had  left  the  'raiiimr  couiitrv  for  the  soiitli,  h.- 
also  iiii^^ht  he  i-i>scut'd  ;  if  thev  htiilid  them  vt'Vy  lato,  Ihty 
at  least  ini^lit  cxiK'ct  to  savt*  their  lives;  if  the  Saiuojedts 
could  not  l>e  found,  then,  df  course,  the  Avhole  party  wa> 
doonie*].  Thus  ^Iidden<loril'  resolved  t(t  separate  at  oiic' 
from  his  conu"a(h'S.  A  renniant  of  llesh  extract,  reserved  f<ir 
extreme  cases,  was  divided  into  tivi-  e(|ual  portions;  tli" 
natnralist's  dou'.  the  faithlul  companion  of  all  his  [trevioiis 
j<»urneys,  was  killeil,  tiH>nii]i  reduced  to  a  mere  skeleton,  ainl 
his  scanty  fl(>sh  similarly  distril»ute«l  amon;^'  tlie  j.arty.  Tli!' 
hlo<Ml  and  a  soup  made  of  the  hones  served  tor  the  parting;' 
repast.  'JMnis  of  his  own  free  will,  the  winter  havin<^  already 
set  in.  ^Iid«lendorff,  ill  and  exhansted.  remaim-d  (piite  aloiif 
in  tlie  icv  desert,  hchind  a  shelterinu'  rock,  in  7')^  X.  !at.. 
several  hnndrt'<l  versts  from  all  human  dwelliie^s.  alnic.i 
withont  fuel,  and  with  a  miseral)le  supply  of  fond,  'fhc 
throe  first  «lays  lie  was  still  aide  to  move,  lie  saw  the  lake 
cover  itself  ('(unpletely  with  ice.  and  the  last  l)irds  depart  I'l' 
tlu'  S(»uth.  Then  Ins  streiiLjtli  utterly  failed  him.  and  for  tlie 
next  three  days  he  was  unahle  to  st  ir.  ^Vhen  he  was  auain 
ahh'  to  m<»ve.  he  felt  an  excessive  tliirst.  He  crawled  to  tlie 
lake,  hridce  the  i<'e.  and  the  water  refreshed  him.  I»nt  lie\\,i> 
not  y«'t  free  from  disease,  and  this  was  lia-tnnate.  as  want  et 
appetite  tlid  not  make  him  feel  the  lu'cessity  of  food.  ]S'e\v 
followed  a  succession  of  terrihie  snow-storms,  which  coiii- 
jtletely  impristued  the  solitary  I  ;aveller.  hut  at  thes.mie  tii.i' 
affoi'ih'd  him  a  hotter  sh.dter  a'_;ainst  the  wind. 

'  IVFy  comi>anions,'  he  wiates  iu  a  letter  to  a  relation,  '  ]\\\<\ 
now  left  me  twelve  (hiys  ;  human  assistam-e  could  no  lonu'i" 
he  expectiMl;  I  was  convinced  that  1  had  only  myself  to  iclv 
n[ton,  that  I  was  doomed,  and  as  i^'ood  as  innnhcred  with  th  • 
(h'ad.  And  vet  mv  conra^'i'  did  not  forsake  me.  Tiike  or 
squirrels,  I  tui-ned  mystdf  accordini;  to  the  (diany-es  of  th  • 
wind.  During-  the  loiii;-  sleep'ess  nie-hts  fancy  opened  In  r 
domains,  and  I  foreol  even  hunj4'er  and  thirst.  Then  IJoi-e;!- 
broke  roaring"  out  (»f  the  •••ullios  as  if  he  intenth'd  to  sweep 


Ai.oNi:  ON  Tin:  tindka. 


•-M7 


)iii'  inviiy  into  flic  slcifs,  ninl  in  n  slioi-t  tiiiu'  I  was  eovcrtd 
willi  ii  coiniortjililc  siKiw-iniiiitlo.  Thus  F  liiy  tlirt'f  days, 
tliiiikiii;^  <»f'  wrctrhi'S  wlio  had  hern  imiinirtMl  ahvi',  and 
uiowii  iiia<l  iii  their  dp'adl'nl  ]»ris<iM.  An  ovt'i-wlirlniiii^ 
\'<-.\r  ct' insanity  befell  me — ^it  oppressed  my  lieart  -it  heeanai 
jiisMpportabh'.  In  vain  I  attt.'mpted  to  east  it  ofi'  niy 
\vt;ikene<l  brain  eonld  j^rasp  no  other  idea.  And  now  sud- 
il'idv — like  a  rav  of  liolit  from  lieaven  -  tlie   saviiiLT  thoUiiht 


;is 


h.'d 


Ultoii  me 


'  My  hist  ]»ieees  of  weod  were  (jniikly  linhled  -  seme  waler 
\\;is  thawed  and  warmed — I  poured  into  it  the  sjtirils  from  a 
lliisk  containing''  ji  specinn-n  of  iiatural  Idstorv,  and  di'aid>>. 
A  iii'W  life  seemed  t<t  awaken  in  me;  my  tlioULihts  reiunied 
nuiiin  to  my  family,  to  the  happy  days  I  hatl  s)»ent  with  tla^ 
iVieiids  of  my  youth.  So<»n  I  tell  into  a  jirofnund  slecj) — 
liuu  lon;4'  it  lasted  I  know  n(»t  — but  on  awakening,'  I  felt  lik»; 
iiiKrilier  man,  and  my  ]»reasi  was  fdied  with  L^r.ititnde,  Aj)- 
pi'tite  ret urne<l  with  recovery,  and  1  was  reduced  to  eat 
l;ith''rand  birch-bark — when  a  ptarmii;an  fortunately  cam.; 
within  reacdj  of  my  Li'un.  Mavint,^  thus  obtained  sonie  iood 
I'll-  the  journey,  I  I'csojved,  although  still  very  feeble,  to  set 
iii'tivisions  we   had  buried.      J*ackinu"  sonn^ 


■  111  and  se( 


■k  th 


<>\ 


;ir;iiji's  of  dress,  my  L;'un  and  ammunition,  my  Jnui'nal.  Sn'., 
I  uiv  small  hand  sledi-'e,  J  iii'o<-eeded  slowlv,  and  freciuentlv 
i''>tini,''.  At  noon  1  saw,  on  a  well-known  declivity  of  the  hills, 
three  black  sp(»ts  which  I  had  not  previously  noticed,  and  as 
t !iev  chanu'ed  their  iiosition,  I  at  once  alteictl  mv  route  to 
ji'iii  them.  \Ve  approached  each  other — and.  Jud;^'e  of  my 
ileli'_;-ht,  it  Avas  Trisclmu,  the  Saniojede  ciiieftain,  w  luaii  I 
liaij  j»reviously  assisted  in  the  jirevailiui;' epidemic,  mid  who 
nii\v,  i^nided  by  one  of  my  companions,  had  set  out  with 
tliree  sledj^'es  to  seek  me.  I'liiijer  to  serve  his  benefactor,  the 
i^iatefnl  savai^'e  liad  made  his  reimleer  wander  without  food 
"\e|-  ii  sjtace  of  l.-jO  versts  where  no  moss  i;rew. 

'  I  now  hear<l  that  my  eomjKinions  had  fortunately  reacheil 
tile  Samojedes,  four  days  after  our  sej)aration;  but  the 
di'eadful  snow  storms  had  prevented  the  nomads  from 
cnniinLT  sooner  to  my  assistance,  and  had  even  fei-eed  them 
twice  to  retrace  their  steps. 

'On  Se])tember  -SO,  tlie  Samojedes  l»rou;^ht  me  io  my  tent 


248 


TiiK  I'oi.Au  woin.n. 


niul,  on  Ootubcr  J),  we  biido  tlic  Tiiiinur  iin  cttTiinl  ruivwrll. 
Ai'tcr  five  uiuiillis  we  liailcd  with  ddi^Mit,  on  ( htoltcr  I'o. 
ilu'  vci*;,''*'  (tf  llic  jort'sf,  and  on  the  I'ollnwinijf  «liiy  \V'' 
r«'iic!i('<l  tlic  smoky  lint  on  tho  ll(»;jifani<la  wlu-rc  wo  had  Id: 
onr  friends.' 

Havin^jf  thns  aoeoni]>ani('d  iMiihh'ntloril' on  his  advontin-oiis 
Avandcrino-s  thronyh  Taiinnria,  I  Avill  now  ^'ive  a  hrii  t 
af'<'onnt  <»f  liis  ohservations  on  tiu'  cliniato  and  natnial 
}ir<Mhi(li(»ns  (if  tliis  nortlicrn  land. 

The  remark  of  Sanssnre  that  the  dilVereiice  of  teni|»eraturi' 
between  li^^'ht  and  shade  is  <;"reatest  in  sninnicr,  ami  in  tli.' 
liiLrh  latitndes,  was  fnlly  eonfii-nied  l»y  Middendnrff.  While 
the  thermometer  marked  — i*?"  in  the  shade,  the  hill  sidr^ 
exposed  to  the  snii  were  drijipin^  with  wet,  and  towards  tlir 
en<l  r»f  ,Inne,  tlionj^di  the  ]n«'an  teinperatnre  <tf  the  air  was 
still  Itelow  the  freezin<x  jHunt  of  water,  the  snow  ha<l  already 
entirely  disappeared  <»n  the  snnny  side  of  the  'J'ainuir  rivn-. 
Torrents  came  hrawlin^^  down  the  hills;  the  swollen  riveis 
rose  fortv  or  sixty  feet  ahove  their  winter  level,  and  earrinl 
their  icy  eoverinj^-  alont,'  with  them  to  the  sea. 

(Jii  An^ust  ;{,  in  the  v«'ry  middle  of  the  short  Taimnriaii 
snnimer  in  71°  !•'>'  of  latitnde,  Middendorlf  hnnted  hntterlli.  s 
nnder  the  shelter  of  a  hill,  hare-footed  and  in  lifjfht  under- 
clothes. The  thennonn'ter  rose  in  the  snn  to  4-(»H°,  and 
close  to  the  ;,'ronnd  to  -f  Sd'',  while  at  a  short  distance  f>n  ;i 
spot  exposed  to  the  north-eastern  air-current,  it  fell  lit  ome 
to  +27°. 

The  nndstnre  of  the  air  was  very  remarkalde.  In  i\rav 
thick  snow  fo^s  almost  ])erpetually  obscured  the  atmosjditii', 
so  that  it  was  imjiossible  to  ascertain  the  position  f>f  tlie 
sini.  It  appeared  only  in  the  evenin;^",  or  about  midni;^lii. 
and  then  re^'ularly  a  perpendicular  colnmn  of  liuninoiis 
whitem'ss  «lescend»'d  from  its  orl>  t(»  the  t'arth,  and,  wideniiiL; 
as  it  approached  the  hori/on,  took  the  form  an<l  the  ap- 
peavance  of  a  cohtssal  lam])  (lame,  sin  h  as  the  latter  ai»peiii> 
when  seen  thron<j;h  the  mists  of  a  vapour  bath.  From  the 
sanu'  canse  parhelia  and  halos  were  very  frecpient. 

Onrinn"  the  daytime  tho  snow  fo<jfs,  in  ]»erpetnal  motion, 
either  entirely  veiled  the  nearest  objects,  or  ma^-nified  tluii- 
si/e.  or  exhibited  them   in   a  dancing;  motion.      In  June,  tli'- 


(I.IMATi;   OF   TAIMIRLANI). 


'J41> 


siiow-f(»nf  lioramc  a  vapour-fo^',  wliich  daily  from  timo  to  time 
Id-coipitiitcd  its  surj>lus  of  luoistui'o  in  form  of  a  liiu'lit  rain, 
Imt  cvoii  then  tlic  ni^'lits,  particularly  after  cK'ven  o'clock, 
were  mostly  serene. 

Kxperieiice  i>rove<l  contrary  to  Ara;^o's  opinion  that 
llmiHlerstorms  take  place  witliin  the  Arctic  zone.  The 
jM'ri>etnal  motion  of  the  air  was  very  i-emarkahle.  The  sun 
]i;m1  merely  to  <lisai>pear  hehind  a  chmd,  t<.>  j»rotluce  at  <»nce 
ii  yust  of  wind.  Towards  the  end  of  An^-ust,  the  sontheni 
;iiid  the  northern  air-currents,  like  two  contemlinj,'  {j^iants, 
lit'iran  to  strive  for  the  masterv,  until  finallv  the  storms 
i;iL;'ed  with  extn'me  violence.  But  in  these  treeless  deserts 
tlit'ir  fury  finds  nothing'  to  destroy. 

It  is  impossible  to  form  anythin*^  like  a  correct  estimate 
lit'  the  (piantity  of  snf»w  which  annually  falls  in  the  hij^hest 
liititud<'s.  So  much  is  certain  that  it  cannf»t  be  small,  to 
jud<^fe  by  the  vi(»l«Mice  and  swellinq;  of  the  rivers  in  sprin<:»'. 
The  sunnnits  of  the  hills,  and  the  declivities  exposed  to 
tilt'  rei^'nin<x  winds,  are  constantly  deprived  of  snow,  which, 
Imwever,  fills  np  the  bottom  of  the  valleys  to  a  considerable 
liri'^dit.  Great  Avas  Middendorff's  astonishment,  while  tra- 
vrllinjj:  over  the  tundra  at  the  end  of  winter,  to  find  it 
ciAcred  with  no  more  than  two  inches,  or  at  the  very  ntmost 
luilf  a  foot,  of  snow ;  the  dried  stems  of  the  Arctic  plants 
everywhere  p<'e})in<^  forth  above  its  surface.  This  was  the 
iiMtural  consecpience  of  the  north-easterly  storms,  which, 
>\V(M'pin<x  over  the  naked  plain,  carry  the  snow  alonij  with 
llniM,  and  form  the  snow-waves,  the  compass  of  the  northern 
iMnnads. 

It  is  extremely  prf>bable  that,  on  advancin*,'  t<^»wards  the 
]>"h\  the  fall  of  snow  o-radually  diminishes,  as  in  tlw  Alps, 
wlii-re  its  (juantity  likewise  decreases  on  ascendin;;-  above  a 
•■•■rtain  hei<^'ht. 

<  Ml  measuring  the  thickness  f»f  the  ice,  ^liddendorff  was 
vi'iy  much  snr[)rised  to  find  it  nowhere,  both  in  the  lakes 
;iih1  on  the  river,  thicker  than  ei<;ht  feet,  and  sometimes 
"lily  four  and  a  half;  its  thickness  bein*,'  constantly  propor- 
tinimte  to  the  quaiiiit}' of  snow  with  which  it  was  covered. 
At  first  he  could  hardly  believe  that  this  simple  coverinj,*' 
'I mid  at^'ord  so  efficacious  a  protection  against  the  extreme 


2.i0 


Tin:    POLAR    WOULD. 


r<»M  of  winter  in  tlic  7M1>  dcijn'*'  of  latihulc,  l)ut  iho  fact  \h 
well  known  to  the  Saniojodes,  who,  whenever  they  re(|niif 
water,  always  make  the  hole  where  the  Kn«»w  lies  th'epeHt. 

The  tun«lr:i!S  of 'Jaiiunria  were  found  to  consiwt  princijtaliy 
of  arid  plaleunx  and  vnahdjitin;^- heights,  where  the  ve;^etati<»n 
cannot  conceal  the  houlders  and  the  sand  of  which  the  crust 
(►f  the  i'arth  is  forn»c<h 

The  withered  tips  of  the  <4:rasses  scarcely  differ  in  colour 
from  the  dirty  yelIow-l)rown  nioHs,  and  the  <;roen  of  tlie 
lower  part  of  tlie  stalks  appears  us  through  a  v«'il.  NotliiuL: 
can  he  of  a  nu»re  <lrearv  m<»notonv  than  this  vegetation  when 
spread  over  a  wide  sui-face,  hut  in  the  hardly  perceptible 
depressions  of  tlie  jdjiius  where  the  sprin;^'  water  is  ahle  in 
collect,  a  fresher  «_;-re«'n  ^'ains  the  Uj>])er  hand,  the  stalks  arc 
not  onlv  loiiu'er  l>ut  stand  closer  to<«-('ther,  and  the  jirass, 
<^rowiu<;'  to  a,  iieij^ht  of  three  or  even  fonr  inclu's,  nsnr|»s  the 
phici,'  of  the  nioss.  Here  and  there  snuill  patches  td'  />>•//">• 
iH'htlufiiln,  <»r  CiiKsii'i),'  frlriiijtuiii,  and  mnch  moiv  rarely  a 
dwarf  raniuicidus,  diversify  the  dinn'y  carpet,  yet  without 
l)ein;4"  ahle  to  relieve  its  Avearisoiu<'  character.  But  very 
ditferent,  and  indeed  truly  sur|trisin;4',  is  the  asjx'ct  of  tlit> 
shtpes  whieh,  faciuLj  the  Taimur  lake  or  river,  are  j^rotectrd 
a;j;ainst  the  late  aiul  early  frosts.  Here  considerahlepatchts 
of  ^-roinid  ar(>  <'overed  with  a  lively  ^reen,  interminn;l»'d  with 
<'ailv  coloun'd  llowers,  snch  as  the  hi'illiant  vi'How  .Sieversia, 
the  t'leiiant  Oxytropis,  the  hlne  and  white  Saxifra<;;"as,  the  red 
Arunrln  iilin'ini,  and  a  heautiful  new  S2)ecies  of  Deljdiiniuiii. 
All  these  various  fiowers  are  not  dwarfs  of  stunted  growth, 
for  l*oh'nion<\s.  Sisyndirias,  Polyodnunis,  and  Paj»avers,  aliovi- 
a  foot  hiL;*h,  decorate  the  slopes,  and  Middend(»rtf  found  an 
islet  in  the  Taiuiur  covered  like  a  field  Avith  a  Senecio,  of 
Avhich  some  of  the  most  conspicuous  spocin)ens  were  mere 
than  a  foot  aiul  a  half  hi^h,  and  hore  no  less  than  forty 
flowers  ahove  an  inch  in  diameter. 

The  pro;,n*ess  of  vegetation  is  uncommonly  rapid,  so  that. 
as  INIiddendortt'  renuirks,  if  any  one  wishes  to  see  the  erass 
f>row.  he  must  travel  to  the  Taimnr.  Hcarcely  do  tlii'  tir>t 
leavi's  ]iee[)  forth  when  the  hlosstuns  also  ajipear,  as  it. 
conscious  of  the  early  approach   of  autumn,  they  felt  tin- 


I'UulHCTIoNS    oV   TAI.MrUl,AM>. 


251 


iiiMMSsity  of  Itrinninn"  tln-ir  scrds^  in  w  r;i|>i<l   mafiirity  inidrr 
this  wiiiti-y  sky. 

With  rt'LTiii'd  to  tlif  iiuiiiiiit  cn'ution,  tlic  ^rcMicnil  law  of 
|M«!;ir  iinifoiiiiitv  was  fullv  ronllniit'd  in  'riiinmr  LiiiKl.  Tlif 
-.iiiK'  li-nimiiiLi's  wtMV  t'ouiid  which  ix'ojtlc  the  whole  iiorlh  of 
Asi;i  ;iii(l  Aiiicrica,  iiiid  as  hi^h  as  7")  X.  lal.  Ihoy  fomid  llio 
Ir.i  Ts  of  ihc  siiow-lian',  Avhirli  inhahils  llio  cninph'to  cii'i  It* 
(f  thi'  Arctic  i"»';^'i()iis  of  i\\o  jj^hihc.  The  Ai'ctic  fox,  cvcn- 
wliciciit  h(»iiii'  ill  the  treeless  wastes,  is  here  jilsn  |iursiie<l 
|p\  tlie  northern  eluttoit  ;  and  followine:  the  herds  <>f  the  rein- 
(I'cr.  tilt'  Avolves.  and  tin*  Sainojedes,  r<»ains  u|>  and  dnwn  the 
tMiiiliM.  The  ptarniitiiin.  which  in  Sciindinavia  and  on  Melville 
Nliiiid  feeds  <»n  herries  and  hnds,  apjuMrs  also  as  a  sninnier 
\i<itor  at  the  nnmth  of  the  'I'aiimir  in  "'>'  I'  X.  lat..  and  the 
i\"ry  ;^iill  <»f  the  northei'ii  Miiroiieiin   sens  likewise  hiiilds  its 


iii'>i  (I 


n  the  ro(dcs  of  that  distant  shitre 


'flic  more  vi^'oriins  ve^'ctatioii  on  the  slieltered  declivities 
I  r  t!ie  'raiimir  ]'rovides  food  Inr  a  c(ini|tarat ively  ^renter 
inMiilici'  of  insects  than  is  found  on  the  consts  of  Xovava. 
/  iiilva.  i»ces,  hornets,  and  three  ditlerent  species  of  hiitter- 
lli  ■>.  l>n//.ed  or  hovcred  round  the  llowers.  ;ind  cnterpillars 
ciiiilil  l»e  <_i'at lieretl  Iiy  do/.eiis  on  the  tiindra.  hut  tlicii'  mortal 
ciictiiirs  lia<l  |»ursiicd  them  even  here;  and  iciineiinion  Hies 
crept  out  of  most  of  them.  Tw(t  s]»iders,  several  Hies,  e-iiats, 
;!iid  tijiuia',  a  curcnlio,  and  half-a-do/.en  carahi  comiileted 
.Miilden<lortl"s  entoiiiolotiical  list,  to  which,  no  doubt,  further 
ri  scarcju's  W(»uld  hare  i-oiisiderahly  added. 

Thus,  at  liic  uorihei-n  extremity  of  Asia,  as  in  every  other 
I'iirt  of  the  world,  the  naturalist  linds  the  confirmation 
ef  the  M-,.]i,.val  law  that,  where  the  means  of  life  are  tiiveii, 
III''  is  sure  to  conio  f<»rtli. 


Jakr.ts. 


criAPTER  XIX. 

THE    JAKUTS. 

Tlicir  ciicrpctii'  N;iti()iiiility--TIii  ir  T'l'sccnl- Their  gloomy  riiaracfcr  Sinnin.i' 
iiinl  ^Villt(•r  Dwrlliiips — The  Jakut  Horse-  Inornlililo  Powers  of  l-liuluniin  >  ..t 
tlie  Jjikiits  -  Tluir  Sliari>iie.'-s  of  Vision — Suriirisiiifr  Ini'al  ^IcJimry  'I'li.  ii- 
inaiiual  Dexterity-  Ltallier.  roiiiards,  C'arjiets  -  Jakut  tilutloiis-  Superstitii'ii- 
l''ear  of  tlio  Mo\iiitain  Spirit  Jjjeseliei — Offerings  of  Horse-hair — Improvisnl 
Songs — Tile  Kivtr  Jakut. 

rilHE  Jalvuts  are  a  romarkably  ener<jfotic  race,  for  tlionuli 
X  subject  to  the  Muscovite  yoke,  they  not  only  successlully 
maintain  their  lan^jnajj^e  and  manners,  but  even  ini^jose  ihvlr 
own  ton<?ue  and  customs  upon  tlie  Russians  who  have 
settled  in  their  country.  Thus  in  Jakutsk,  or  ihe  '  cai>it;il 
of  the  Jakiits,'  as  with  not  a  little  of  national  jn'ide  iiiid 
self-complacency  the}'  style  that  dreary  city,  their  lanf»uii;ii' 
is  much  more  frequently  spoken  than  the  Russian,  for  almost 
all  the  artisans  are  Jakuts,  and  even  the  rich  fur-mercliiint 
has  not  seldom  a  Jakut  Avife,  as  no  Russian  now  disdains  an 
alliance  with  one  of  that  nation. 

At  Am;4inskoje,  an  oriorinally  Russian  settlement,  Middiii- 
dorff  found  the  greatest  ditliculty  in  procuriiio^  a  jj^uide  iiM'' 


(  IIAHACTKK   OK    TIIK    JAKUTS. 


9/19 


t(»  s|M'iik  tlio  Russian  laiij^Uii^'o,  iiinl  all  llic  Tnn<ifnso  wliom 
Im'  met  with  iK'twt'Oi  Jakutsk  and  Ocliotsk  (imh'rstnod  ami 
s|Mikt>  Jakut,  whicli  is  tlins  tlit>  (loiiiiiiaiit  laii;^nia;^^<>  t'nnii 
till'  basin  (»t'  liif  Lena  to  the  fxtiTiin'  ('ast«'ni  (•(•iitincs  of 
Sihcria.  In  trnth,  no  Unssian  workmen  can  fompfto  with 
till"  .laknts,  whoso  cnnnin;^',  an<l  ctrrontcry  W(MiI(1  niaku  it 
(lilliiMilt  even  for  a  Jew  to  prosper  amon^'  them. 

Though  of  a  IMoii^'olian  physiognomy,  their  hin^j^na^'e, 
wliieh  is  said  to  be  intelli^'iblo  at  ('onstaiitin<»i»le,  distinctly 
|.(iiiits  to  a  Turk  extraction,  and  their  traditions  sp«'ak  of 
tht'ir  original  seats  as  situated  on  the  liaikal  and  Aiijjfora, 
whence,  retn-atin^'  l)efor«?  more  powerful  hordes,  thi'y  ad- 
viinced  to  the  Lena,  where  in  tlieirt\irn  they  disi»ossessed  tlio 
weaker  tribes  which  they  found  in  possession  of  the  country. 
At  present,  their  chief  abode  is  ah^n^  the  banks  of  that 
iiiiniense  river,  wliich  they  occupy  at  h'ast  as  far  southward 
iistheAhhm.  Eastward  they  are  found  on  the  Kcdyma, 
and  westward  as  far  as  the  Jenisei.  Their  total  nundn'r 
iiiiiounts  to  about  2tH),000,  and  they  ft)rin  tlu>  chief  part 
ef  the  population  of  the  vast  but  almost  desert  pntvince  of 
Jakiitsk. 

They  are  essentially  a  pastoral  i>eople,  and  tlu'ir  cliief 
wt  ahh  consists  in  horses  and  cattle,  though  the  n(»rthern 
l"ii'ti(»n  of  their  nation  is  reduced  to  the  reindeer  and  the 
ili"4'.  Besides  the  bre(,'din^  of  horses,  the  Russian  fur-trade 
lias  developed  an  industrial  form  of  the  hunt<'r's  state,  so 
that  amongst  the  Jakuts  property  accunudati's,  and  we  have 
a  liiifjier  civilisation  than  Avill  be  found  elsewhere  in  the 
same  latitude,  Iceland,  Finland,  and  Norway  alone  excei»ted. 
<M'an  unsocial  and  reserved  dis[>osition,  they  prefer  a  soli- 
tarv  settlement,  but  at  the  sanu*  time  they  are  very  hospi- 
talile,  and  <^'ive  the  stran<j^er  who  claims  their  assistance 
a  fVicndly  welcome.  Villau'es  consisting;'  of  sevei-al  huts,  or 
./"/•/x,  are  rare,  and  found  only  between  Jakutsk  and  the 
Aldan,  where  the  population  is  somewhat  denser.  JJeyond 
the  Wcrclntjansk  ridjjfe,  the  solitary  huts  are  frequently 
M'veral  hundred  versts  apart,  so  that  the  nearest  neighbours 
sometimes  do  not  see  each  other  for  years. 

In  summer   the  Jakut  herdsmen  live   in  '  Urossv,'  li<dit 
coiiieal  tents  fixed  on  poles  and  covered  with  birch  rind,  and 


•2.U 


TiFK    rol.Ai:    WnlM.U 


•lnriiii,'  this  wlinic  s'nsuii  tlicy  iir»'  pcrjM'tuall}  I'lintloycd  lit 
iMiikiii;^'  liiiy  I'nr  tlic  Imi"^''  winter. 

Ill  i'tl'  N.  lilt,  and  ill  ii  t'liinatc  <»f  an  aliiit»st  miparallfl.  .1 
st'vt'i'il  V,  tilt'  rt-ariii;^'  of  their  cattle  causes  them  far  nnir.' 
tnmhie  than  is  the  case  with  any  (»ther  pastoral  |>eo|.|.'. 
Their  sn|»|»ly  of  hay  is  freijueiitly  exhausted  hefore  the  cud 
of  the  winter,  and  from  Alartdi  to  May  their  oxen  musi 
p'lierally  he  c«mtent  with  willow  and  Idrtdi  twii^soi-  sai>lini;<. 

At  the  he«,nnnin;^'  of  the  c(dd  season,  the  Jakut  ext  hanu'e-i 
his  summer  tent  for  his  warm  winter  residence,  or  jm-f,  a 
hut  hnilt  of  heaiiis  ur  lo^'s,  in  the  foiaii  of  a  truncated  )»y- 
raniid,  and  thickly  covere(l  with  turf  and  clay.  IMates  of  i.  ,■ 
serve  as  windows,  and  are  rejdaced  l»y  rishl>hnlders  or  i»a]ier 
slee|ied  ill  oil,  as  soon  as  the  thaw  l)e;;ins.  'J'he  «'ai1h(ii 
floor,  for  it  is  hut  rarely  hoanh'd,  is  i^enerally  sunk  two  oi- 
three  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  ^'round.  'JMie  seals  ai;d 
sleeping'  berths  arc  raiij^cd  alon;^*  the  sides,  and  the  centre  is 
oi'c(i|»ied  by  the  tstliinrnl,  oi*  hearth,  tia'  smoke  ol'  whiili 
liiids  i!s  exit  throun'h  an  ajierture  in  the  root',  rlnthes  and 
arms  aiv  suspended  from  the  walls,  aial  the  whole  premises 
c'xhil>it  a  sad  jdcture  of  disorder  and  lilth.  Is'ear  the  jmi 
are  stables  for  the  cows,  l)ut  Avhen  the  cold  is  \cry  srvriv. 
those  useful  animals  arc  received  into  the  family  room.  A^ 
for  the  horses,  thev  remain  ni;iht  and  dav  Avithoul  a  shelter. 
at  a  tem[terature  when  mercury  freezes,  and  are  oldi^-ed  {<> 
feed  on  the  withered  autumnal  li'rass,  whicdi  they  find  iindi  !• 
the  snow.  These  creatures.  Avhose  ]»«>wers  «d'  endui'aiice  aie 
almost  incredible,  chaii^'e  their  hair  in  summer  like  the  other 
<pridrii[>eds  of  tla^  Arctii-  re^-ioiis.  They  keep  their  stren^lli, 
thoUL^'h  travtdlinLj;  perhaps  lor  months  through  the  wilder- 
ness without  any  (»tlier  food  than  the  parched,  half-r(»tteii 
;.>'rass  met  with  on  the  way.  They  retain  their  teeth  to  oM 
ai^e,  and  remain  A'ouny  much  h>ny'i'r  than  our  horses.  '  lie 
who  thinks  of  iniprovine-  the  Jakut  horse,'  says  Von  ]\lii- 
dendortt',  'aims  at  sonietliine-  like  perfection.  Fancy  tlr' 
worst  conceivable  roads,  and  for  nonrishnient  the  bark  of  tin' 
lareli  and  willow,  with  hard  o-vass-stalks  instead  of  <^>ats;  or 
merely  traA'el  on  tlie  post-road  to  Jakutsk,  and  see  the  horses 
that   have  just  run   forty  versts  without   stop[iinii-,   and  are 


KXTIIAOIMUNAKV    SII\UI'M:>S    n|'    MsloN. 


■i.'>i 


nvt'r('<l  with   iM'rs|tinitiuii  niid  rouni,  ositiii^'  tin  ir  liiiv  in  tin- 
'|n'ii  iiir  without   tho   sli^^lttcst  covcrinij:,  at   ii   t»  iiiiMratiir*' 

l»iit    the  Jiikiil    himsi'lf  is    iu»    h-ss   lianlcin'il    aLrain.-t    the 


■  M  than  his  linthtnl  horsf.     M  )n   hrcrnilMM- !», 


;i\s 


\Vi- 


in- 


'jvll.  '  wf  hi\«tnackt't|  naind  a  lin*,  at  a  trin|i"i"atni-i'  of  —•_'*>, 
I'll  an  ojH'n  ]»astnrt.' i^'rouinl,  which  alt'onh'd  no  >ht'ltrr  aLTiiin^t 
lilt'  northern  hhist.  Ih'n'  I  haW  an  cxiflli'nt  o|.|.i.rtiniit  v  lor 
iiihnii'inL,'  tho  Mni)arall»'h'<l  |Miwt'rs  of  ondurantr  of  unr  .lakut 
;ittt'n»hints.  ( )n  thf  h>n;^'«'sl  winlor  join-no v  t  hoy  take  in-it  h<  r 
t'lits  nor  extra  eoverinLCs  alonn- with  them,  not  even  one  of 
the  larLfer  fnr-»h*esses.  Whih*  travellin'^,  the  .laknt  eonteiils 
liimself  with  his  nsnal  dress;  in  this  he  <_jeiieiMlIv  slet'|i^  in 
the  open  air;  a  horse  v\\<j;  stretehed  oiit  npon  the  siiow  is 
lii^  hed,  a  woo(h'n  saddle  liis  ['illow.  With  the  same  fnr 
j;icket  whi(di  serves  him  h\  davtinie  as  a  dres<,  and  wliieh 
Ih' jinlks  oil'  wlien  lie  lies  down  for  the  niL^liI,  lie  decks  his 
ImcU  and  s1i<»ultlers,  while  the  front  pai't  of  his  ImmIv  i-; 
Imiied  towards  the  lire,  almost  without  anv  eov.TiiiL;-.  lie 
tlicu  stops  his  nttse  and  eai's  with  small  |»ieces  of  ski'i.  and 
Clivers  Ids  fa<'i'  so  as  to  h-ave  hut  a  small  oiteiiin:;'  for  hreath- 
inu  these  are  all  the  precautions  he  takes  a 'gainst  the  soyerest 
cnld.  jlyen  in  Siberia  the  Jaknts  are  called  '*  men  of  iron." 
<Mtcn  have  I  seen  them  sleeping'  ;|{  ii  ti'm]>eiMl  in  e  of  —  !■  in 
til'  open  air.  near  an  extin^-nished  hivoiiac  lift-,  and  v.ith  a 
tiiiik'  ici'-rind  eoveriniLv  their  almost  niipr<.tc,tfd  Ii.mIv.' 

.Mt»st  of  theJakuts  have  an  iiicredilde  sharpne-s  of  \  isi"n. 
<  ijie  of' them  told  Lieutenaid  Anjoii.  point  ini:'  to  the  plaiici 
.liii'iter,  that   he  had  often   si>en   vonder  blue   star  di-\onr  a 


Miaiier  one,  sin( 


Itl 


u'li  after  a  time  east  it  out  aL;ain. 


hen* 


I'ical  momorv  is  no  less  astonishinu" :  a  pool  nt'  water,  n  lare'e 
^tlale,  a  solitary  hush  imprints  itsell"  deeply  into  iheii  rc- 
iMcjiilirance.  and  L^uides  tiieui  after  a  lapse  <.f  \ears  lliroaM-|i 
ilie  boundless  wiKleruess.  In  manual  dexterity  tbey  surpass 
all  other  Siberian  nations,  and  sonn.'  of  their  article^,  such 
their  poniards  and  their  h-ather,  miuht  ti^ure  with  credit 
ill  any  European  exhibiti<.)n.     L(»n<^  before  the  itus>ian  con- 


as 


*   1Iiiiii!mi1i1i  lik<\\i>r  iiii'iitii)iis  an  Mi'ti-;\ii  ' 


f   I! 


1-1. lU  wli-^i'   ^i-ht  wa» 


n«  111  ciial.l.'  Ii'mii  t'l  I'liiiit  mil  tlic  iiu-ition  ^,\  .lupitiT-  >,iti'! 


iV[> 


itC! 


256 


TIIK    rOLAIl    WORLD. 


quest  they  made  use  of  the  irou  ore  on  the  Wihii  to  mann- 
faetnre  1h<'ir  own  knives  and  axes,  which,  either  t'nan  the 
excellence  of  the  material  or  of  the  workiminshij),  rarely 
hreiik,  even  in  the  severest  cold — a  perfection  which  the 
best  Shetlield  ware  does  not  attain.  Since  time  imm«'mori:il 
they  have  been  acquainted  with  the  art  of  strikini^-  fire  with 
flint  and  steel,  an  invention  unknown  even  to  the  ancient 
Greeks  and  llomans.  Their  leather  is  perfectly  water-ti<»'ht, 
and  the  women  make  carpets  of  white  and  coloured  skins 
which  are  even  exported  to  Europe.  It  is  almost  super- 
fluous to  uiention  that  a  people  so  capable  of  bearing'  hard- 
ships, so  sharp-witted  and  so  eaj^'er  for  <4'!iin,  as  the  Jakuts, 
must  nei'ds  pnrsue  the  fnr-bearing" animals  with  which  their 
forests  abound  with  untirini,^  zeal  and  a  wonderful  dexterity. 

The  horse  renders  the  Jakut  services  not  less  important 
than  those  of  the  reindeer  to  the  Saniojede  or  the  La[)p. 
Besides  usinjj;'  it  for  carrying-  or  ridin;^-,  the  Jakut  makes 
articles  of  dress  out  of  its  skin,  and  tishin<^--nets  of  its  hair; 
boiled  horse  meat  is  his  favourite  food,  and  sour  mare's  milk, 
or  liai)n/KK,  his  chief  beveraj^v.  Of  the  latter  lu'  also  makes  a 
thick  porrid^^v,  or  ytthinidt,  by  mixin<^  it  with  rye  flour,  or  the 
inner  rin<l  of  the  larch  c»r  fir-tree,  to  which  he  frequently 
adds  dried  flsh  and  berries,  and,  to  render  it  i)erfect,  a  (juau- 
tity  of  rancid  fat,  of  which  he  is  immoderately  fond,  lie  is 
in  fact  a  <^'ross  feeder,  and  some  professional  <,^luttons  are 
capable  of  consinnin;^-  such  astonishing*  masses  as  to  shame 
the  appetite  even  of  an  Esquimaux.  During  his  stay  at 
Jakutsk,  Sir  Gieorge  Simpson  put  the  abilities  of  two  dis- 
tinguished artists  to  the  test,  by  setting  two  pouds  of  boiled 
beef  and  apoud  of  melted  butter  before  them.  Each  of  theiii 
got  a  poud  of  meat  for  his  share  ;  the  butter  they  Avere  allowed 
to  ladle  out  and  drink  ad  libitum.  The  one  was  old  and 
experienced,  the  other  young  and  full  of  zeal.  At  flrst  the 
Litter  had  the  advantage.  '  His  teeth  are  good,'  said  tin; 
elder  luimpion, '  but  with  the  assistance  of  my  saint  (crossing' 
himself),  I  will  soon  C(»me  uj)  to  him.' 

When  about  half  of  their  task  was  finished,  Sii'  George 
left  his  n(»ble  guests  to  the  care  and  insi)ectiou  of  his  secre- 
tary, but  when  he  returned  a  few  hours  after,  luMvas  inforuicd 
that  all  was  consnmed.  while  the  champions,  stretched  out  on 


tllARACTKU    OF   TIIK    JAKITS. 


>  maun- 
•oiii  the 
,  viircly 
ich   tlir 
[♦'iimrinl 
ire  with 
aiK'i<'iit 
'r-tio-ht, 
'd  skins 
t  super- 
g  liiir«l- 
Jukuts, 
I'll  tlit'ir 
L'xteritv. 
iiportaiit 
o  Lapp, 
t  makes 
its  hair ; 
•e'suiilk, 
iiiakfs  ti 
r,  or  llu' 
cqiu'iilly 
a  (piaii- 
lle  is 
oiis  are 
)  shame 
stay  at 
wo  (lis- 
f  boiled 
of  theia 
allowed 
cdd  and 
tirst  111.' 
said  lilt' 
crosshig 

GoorL^e 
IS  seere- 
intornied 
'il  out  I  m 


llio  floor,  ('o:ifirnied  the  se  Totary's  i-eporl.  and  expressoil  their 
llianks  for  the  (.'xorldtant  inejil  they  had  enjoy<^d  by  respeet- 
fidly  kissini;  the  ;,froMnd.  After  one  of  these  dis^nstinLT 
I'euts,  the  ijor^'ed  L;luttoiis  LTenerally  reniiiin  tor  tliive  or  four 
days  jduii^''ed  in  a  torpid  stale  like  boa  snakes,  witlunit 
-aiiuii"  or  drinking-,  and  are  frecjnently  ndh.'d  about  on  the 
ui'i'iind  to  jironiote  <liL:'esti<»n.  It  may  also  be  iiotieed,  as 
a  proof  <d'  the  low  stale  of  intelleetual  eultiire  ;imon<^f  tlie 
jaknts.  that  at  e\ery  AviddinLf  anionic  the  rieher  elass  two 
]i!'. if.'ssed  virtuosi  in  the  art  of  ^ornumdiziuLj  are  rej^'idarly 
invited  for  the  enlertainineiit  of  t)ie  quests.  One  <d"  tliem 
i^  IlV'lted  at  the  iMMdeLfroom's  expense,  the  other  at  that 
i.t'ihe  bi'ide,  and  the  party  whose  (diampioii  ^-aiiis  the  vietoi-y 
i'.iii>iders  it  as  a  ^'ood  (tnien  fa*  the  future. 

The  Jaknts,  liesifh's  liein;;'  a  ))re-emine)it  ly  pastoral  peojde, 
;iie  aNo  tlie  univ.'r>al  eaniers  to  tjie  cast  of  the  Lena.  For 
lii'Vdiid  .Jakuislx.  tlie  only  roads  are  narrow  paths  leading" 
tlii'iiiLi'li  swamps,  (huse  foi-ests,  or  tanyled  bushes,  so  that 
ilh  iioise  affords  the  only  means  ot"  rea<d»in;a"  the  more  even 
will  lower  countries  wlu-re  rein<leor  or  do^s  can  be  attached 
\  <  -ledo-es.  AVithont  the  Jakut  and  his  liorsi'.  the  Russian 
n.iiiid  nev<'r  have  been  able  to  penetrate  to  the  sea  of 
'ii'lioisk,  and  fr<tm  theneo  lo  ihe  Aleutian  (diain  ;  but  for 
Il  111.  lliey  never  \\oul<l  have  sittled  on  the  Kolyma,  nor  hnvo 
"I'lii'd  a  eonimereial  intei-eoinse  with  the  T*duikt(dii  and  the 
'vvi-i.'i'ii  l'ls(juinuiux. 

Ill  fore  the  jiossessioj,  (d'tlie  Amur  had  ojiened  a  new  road 


<        I'M;! 


MiieiTe.  thousands  of  ]iaek-hi>rses  used  annually  to 
d'c-s  the  Stanowoi  liijl.^  on  1  h-  way  lo  (  M  hot>k  :  and  when  w»! 
inii-^iilrr  the  dreadl'iil  hai'd>!.'ps  of  i  he  journey,  we  eaniiot 
\V"i!,]rr  ili;it  tlie  i-itad  wa>  nniro  thiekly  strewn  with  the 
-kfii'loiis  of  fallen  horses    than   the  earaxan   routes   thi-ou^'h 


M  •    (I 


•rt    with    the   boih 


an 


li-hed    eannds.      iJut     the 


•I:dNiit  t'rars  neithi'r  the  icy  eol  1  of  the  bi\oua<-  nor  the  p 


1 ;  1  M-,s 


Miii:fer.   whicli.   111    spite-    ot    Jus    wollisli    voracity 


f    h 


:  ■!''  io  sMitpoi't  with  stoical  fortitude.  He  fears  iitdther  the 
-!"iiii  on  tlu>  naked  hill,  nor  the  ^^dooin  of"  the  fort-st,  no)-  tho 
'1  p'li  of  th.'  morass;  and.  bidding*  defiance  to  e\ei'vthino' 
'  1-''.  Ie;ns  only  the  invisifde  power  <d'  '  ijieschei,"  the  s[)irit 
■'  iiie  iiiountain  and  the  wood.      The  travellei-  wonders  when 


258 


Tin:  roi.AK  woi!m». 


ho  st'os  on  iiii  cinincncc  crowiit'd  witli  firs,  jm  (»M  tree  frnin 
Avli(»S('  hi'iiiiclics  li;iii^"  ImiiicIk'S  of  liorsc-liilir.  Tlie  J;ikiit 
who  Icinls  tlic  ciirjiViiii  soon  t'X[>liiins  Iht*  inystrry.  He 
<Hsnionnls,  iiiul  plnckint^^  ii  W'w  hiiirs  I'roni  ilio  niiiiK'  <'l'  lii-- 
horso.  iilt;i('h('S  llirm  Avith  ;i  ^rcat  sliow  «»!'  r<'s[icct  to  ;i 
briMM'h,  iis  iin  oll'crin;;-  io  |»ro]iiti!it('  the  f'iivonr  of  I.jcscliii 
<»n  the  jonrncy.  I'lvcn  those  Jiilcnts  who  pass  for  Christian-, 
still  pay  this  mark  of  respect  to  the  dethroned  divinity  (if 
their  fathers;  and  there  can  l>e  no  donltt  that  they  still 
retain  the  old  belief  in  Sehamanisni,  and  an  ahject  fmr 
(»f  all  Sorts  of  evil  sjdrits. 

While  travelling"  they  siiii^-  almost  ]>erpetnally  nn-laii- 
eholy  times,  correspond in;^'  with  the  hahitnal  nlooni  n\' 
their  national  character.  The  text  has  more  variety  ainl 
poetry,  and  y'enerally  celehrates  the  beauties  of  nature,  ili, 
stately  <;Towth  of  the  pine,  the  mnrnuiriiiLi'  of  the  l)rook.  m 
the  grandeur  of  the  mountain.  The  sin<^-ers  are  mostly  i 
provisators,  and  to  conciliate  the  favour  <»f  Ljeschei,  tl 
praise  the  desert  throu<^"h  Avhich  they  pass,  as   if  it   wei't 


III 


ii'\ 


1 


taradise 


li 


Like   the    impoverished   Samojede  or  La]>i»,   the   iiidi« 


■lit 


Jakut,  who  possesses  neither  cattle  nor  hor 


ses,  St 


ttl 


es  U' 


nun; 


il    is   1 


lis    ( 


lo-, 


WllM 


the  fish  on  a  liiiht  sledu'e  from  the  river  bank  t 


O     III 


1' Ill- 


some  stream.     His  oidv   domestic    a 

carries 

hut,  or  follows  him  into  the  wocmIs  on  his  hunt  inti"  ex[)edit 

With  the  skins  of  fur-bearing^  animals  he  pays  his  Jassn 

and  is  fj;"lad  if  the  surplus  allows  him  to  indulii'e  from  tin 

to  time  ill  the  luxury  of  a  pipe  of  Circassian  tobacco. 


TiiL  Wi.isLling  S'.vau. 


CIIAITKK*    XX. 


\vi;.\X(;i;i,i. 


Ili~  >li^iiii:.'iii>li''i  .'^'■I'v 


UTS  a~  all 


AiTii.-    Kxi'lun  r--l' 


I'Mll.     1.  |rP>.|illl'-l|   !•.  .I.ikut- 


ISJM  — Tnul-'  >it'  .lakii'-k      Im'-iii  ,lakiit-k  L.   \i~li,;.'    !\mI vni-k  -Tlir    i) 


Dr.  .■iillul  Cli 


lair  of  Ni--liiii'    IvpIviii 


'ilininrr    I  l;r_;il( 


1  iTi  la!  mn 


Aiiiiiial  LitV  —  I 


\rllMlCfr 


lluiitiim'--l'"aiiiiiu-—  Imunlat 


mil-       I  lir   Silirriau    I '■ 


l'ii>t  .Idiu'iicv.-.   (ivi-r  tile   Ii'c   lit' till-    I'lilar   S(a.    ami   Mxpl.irai  ion   ul   tin-    Ci.a-i 
.ml  Ca)..'  Slichi:;~kiM  in   1  M' 1       hr.a.lliil   I'aii-.  r-  aii.l  llanl-hii'S— Matiii-.,'li- 


li 


kiiiV  Sit'dpt'  ■Ii.iirii.v  i.\ .  r  tlir  l'..larS.'a  in   ISj'J      I,a-I   A.|\i  ul  iii-.  ~  .m  i  lir  I'.ilar 
."^la-A  liiui  t'.r  Lit'.   -  li'itiirn  I.)  St.  I'rit  rsLui-ii. 


T 


rpiIE  ('X[)c'(liti<»ii.s  wliirli  Iiud  licfii  sent  <.nt  diiriiiu'  tli,- 
ffiL^'ii  v\'  the  Eiiiprcs.s  Anna  lor  tlic  cxjdoratidn  >>['  the 
Ak  lie  slioivs  (»t'  eastt'i'ii  Siberia,  lia<l  pevi'onnefl  tln'ir  hisk 
>"  Iiadly,  as  to  leave  them  still  alinnsl  tutally  iinkimwn. 
Tn  till  up  this  blank  in  ^eo^'rajiliv.  (he  Kni[M'riif  AlcxamliT 
•TiliTeil  two  new  expeditions  to  be  litted  <iut  in  I>l!o,  tiii"  the 
liin'|)(ise  (if  accurately  ascertainiie^  the  limits  of  llii'sc  cx- 
tiviii,.  t'nmtiers  of  his  innnense  entpire.  Of  tlic  nnc  wliirb, 
•V  riicul^'iiant  Anjou.  ('(.immeiu-eil  its  oiicral  inn-;  tVdiii  tin" 
til    of  till'  .Fana.  and   coniii)'isc(]    within    its    rai.Li'e    Xcw 


iiiii 


nn.u 


Mill 


ria    autl    tlii-    ntlier    i>lands    of    tlif    iiaclniw    L;'i"iin|t.    but 


200 


TlIK    I'OLAil    WOULD. 


little  has  boon  coinnmiiioated  to  tho,  jiublio,  all  his  papois 
liavinjT!' boon  aooidontally  burnt ;  but  tlio  travols  of  LioutiMiaiit 
von  ^Vraii<;t'll,  tlio  ooiuniandor  of  tlio  st'c<»n(l  ox]>o(liti(»ii. 
liavo  obtained  a  Avorld-wido  oolobritv.  StartiuLj  from  tlif 
mouths  of  tlio  Kolyma,  ho  not  onlv  rootitiod  tho  orr(»rs  of 
the  coiist-lino  of  Siberia,  from  tho  Indijiirka  in  tho  west  In 
Koliutschin  Island  in  tho  oast,  but  more  than  one*-  vonturtil 
in  a  slod^'o  upon  tho  Polar  Ocean,  in  tho  hopes  of  discovoriiiu 
;l  lari^'o  ooimtry  supposed  to  bo  situated  to  the  nortliAvard  of 
liotelnoi  and  Now  Siberia. 

Wrano-ell  left  St.  Potersburo-  on  ]\lareh  2:1,  1820,  an^l 
experionein<jf  in  his  journey  of  :5. .">(»(►  miles  repeated  alter- 
nations of  sj»rin^'  an<l  winter,  arrived  at  Irkutsk,  where  llir 
<;-ardens  wer(>  in  full  Hower,  on  May  20. 

After  a  niontlTs  rest,  a  short  jotu'noy  lirou;^lit  him  ^»  tin' 
bai'ks  (»f  the  lieini,  on  whieh  he  (Mubarked  t-»n  Jniu'  27.  1" 
descend  to  Jakutsk,  which  he  reached  on  July  27.  Tlii^ 
s!nall  lowu  <if  1.000  inliabilaiits  bears  the  ^'loomy  stamp  ol 
the  fi'iu'id  north,  for  Ihou-jli  it  has  a  few  ^'odd  hoiisi's,  lis 
dwelliuii's  ehielly  eonsist  of  the  widter  jurts  of  the  Jakuts. 
Avith   t ui'f-covere<l  rot»fs.  doni's  of  skins,  and  "windows  of  t;ili' 


or  ]C(> 


Tl 


10  onlv 


;  1 1 1 


lit '   of  this  <lrearv   plaee   is    tl 


le    (I 


ruinous  ostroi^*  or  \\'0(idi'ii  fort  built  by  the  t'ossacks,  the  ( 
qnerors  of  the  country,  in  1<»I7.     .l-akntsk  is  the  centn 
tlu^  interior  trade  of  Silx-ria.     To  this  plaie  are  brou;4-ht. 
<')iormous    (plant  it  ies.   furs    of   all    kinds.    w"alnis    teeth   ; 
niammotli  tusks,  tVoin  distances  of  many  thoii.-antl  vers!.-,  \i 
an  amount  of  half  a  million  of  pounds. 


'  .if 
ill 


!l|il 


Tli(>   eonr.veivial    sjdiere  of   the  .laknt^lc   merchants    i 


S     (ll 


an    immense    extent.      During'    a    cold    of    ten    and    1weiii\ 


(h'li'i'ees 


tliev  set    out    for   the-    LiichoW    Isles,  for   the    I' 


l!r    e 


Ostrownoje,  for  Ocliolslc,  (»r  Kjachta.  Jakutsk  mercli,i,i;> 
-wert>  the  tirst  who  ventured  in  cr.i/.y  ships  across  the  sea  el 
Kamtschatka,  and  disc(»vered  the  island  of  Kadjiak,  ei^ 
deti-r 


ill  * 


■ees  o 


f  loii''"itudo  from  their  lunnc 


On  September  1 2,  ^Vran^•ell  left  Jakutsk.  where  reeiilm 
travollinj^'  I'uds.  as  from  thence  to  Kolynisk.  and  e-eneiMl!\ 
throue-hout  Noi'thern  Siberia,  there  are  no  beaten  roa^ls 
The  utmost  thai  i-an  be  looked  for  ai'e  foot  or  hoise-tr.nle 
h^Kliuii'  throno'lt  morasses  or  tamded   foi-ests.  and  oyer  vi»-i- 


3  papois 

_Hlt)Mlllllt 

|u'»liti<>ii. 
rom  tilt' 
.n'l'ors  of 
'  west  tu 
vonturr<l 
iC'<iV(M'iiiL;' 
Invard  of 

S2(»,  aiiil 
I'd  iiltcr- 
rlicrr  lli'' 

111     to     till' 

iH'  27.  to 
:7.  Tlii< 
st:iin[i  ct 
KiilSi's,  its 
I'  Jakuts. 
vs  ot"  t;il.' 
Ill,'  "h\ 
tho  ('"'n- 
•t'litrc  "f 
tiv^-lit.  in 
.'til  aihl 
versl>.  I" 

•lis    i>  "! 
ij    twiiiiy 

l;iir  "' 
iit'i't'lniii'- 
he  i'^ca  "I 
ik,  «'iu!il.^ 

V    Vf^'lllil'' 

^cncviii!} 
ell  r(ia'l>. 
i'si'-tr,ii-l^- 

V,>V    I'dcl^- 


THi:    IJAKAKANY. 


201 


;i!i(l  monnfains.  Travellers  prttceod  «»ii  horseback  throuy-h 
till'  liillv  comitrv,  and  on  reaeliinix  the  iilains,  \ise  sled^'es 
liiawii  either  by  reindeer  ordi>o-s. 

In  till.'  manner  AVran^'ell  emssed  from  the  b;isin  of  the 
Li'iia  to  that  of  the  Y'ana,  never  cxj  rit'iirinn-  u  higher  tcm- 
jHiatm-f  tl.uin  +2,  and  freijucntly  endurinu"  a  rold  ol  mon' 
ihan  —  I  2",  dnrin^"  the  jonrni'v  ovt-r  the  intt'rveninu'  hills,  and 
ilicn  tnrnini^' eastward,  travrrs.'d  the  Hadarany.  a  ronijili'tfly 
uiiinliabited  desert,  eliii'lly  consistinu"  of  s\v;t!n|is.  Tlnse 
ll,i(l:ir;iny  never  entii't'ly  drv  np.  even  iiflei'  tli>'  loju^-cst 
-i;iiMiii'r-dronL;'l)t.  At  that  linn'  a  >olid  iTust  is  foi-nicd, 
ihi'oM^li  which  t!i(.'  horses  fre(|ueiitly  Ici  a!<,  lial  tliey  ni'e  jii'e- 
<  ■r\ed  fr(»m  totally  sinking-  in  the  nilre.  I'y  the  |iei'jietn;dly 
iV'Z'n  under^'ronnd.  Nothing-  can  he  more  dismal  and  di'eary 
tliiii  the  Jiadarany.  As  far  as  the  eye  reaches,  nothing;'  is  to 
1"'  seen  hnt  a  covering' of  dini^'y  inos.-,  I'elievi'd  here  idkI  there 
'Ml  Minit.'  more  elevated  s{m)<s  hv  wretched  sjiecinjens  ol'  dwai'f- 
liiivjies.  The  winti'r  is  the  oidy  season  for  tra\  'rsin^•  this 
1  [•■■.icherons  waste,  hnt  w<ie  to  the'  traveller  shoidd  lu'  he 
i.\' i'taken  by  a  sno\v-sl<»rm,  as  for  miles  and  miles  th<  I'e  is 
11"  >|ielter  to  he  found  hut  that  td'  Some  ruinous  jiowarni,  or 
jHi-^t-slation. 

Al  leijo'th,  lifty-two  days  after  lea\  inu' Jakutsk.  ^Vran^ell 
arrived  on  November  l!  at  Xishm'  K'olymsk,  the  apjiointed 
liiMd-(jnartei's  of  the  exi>eiliti(Ui,  uhere  he  was  welcomed 
with  a  Cold  of  — lO',  ov  7'2'  below  the  free/in^'  [K.int  of 
Water. 

liven  in  SilxM'ia  the  climate  of  this  jilace  is  ill-reiiuted  for 
it-  severity,  which  is  as  much  (]\\i'  to  its  nnfavoin'ablo  [lo- 
>i;!en  as  to  its  hie'h  latitude  tt"^  N.'.  The  town  >ianils  on 
a   li'W  swamiiv  island   of  tin*  Kolvma.  having-   on    the    we>t 

J-  «.  • 

the  barren  tundra,  and  on  the  iioi-th  the  Arctic  Ocean,  so 
iIiu'l  the  almost  constant  north-west  wimls  have  full  sco[ie 
fr  their  violence,  and  cause  l're(|ucnt  snow-sloi-nis  even  in 
summer. 

The  mean  temperattn'e  of  tlw  whole  year  is  only  4-11^. 
The  river  at  Xishne  Kolymslc  freezes  early  in  September,  hut 
l"\ver  down,  wln.'re  the  current  is  less  rapiil.  loaded  horst  s 
'Mil  sometimes  cross  on  the  ice  lu  early  as  Auyust  20,  nor 
'l"i's  the  iee  ever  melt  before  Juno. 


m^ 


Tin:  roi-AK  \v(»i:m». 


II  ' 


Alllioiij^'h  (lie  SIP'  miiiiiiis  fil'l  v-f\vu  <liiy<  iilnivf  llic  liori/on. 
lilt'  li^'lil,  ol»sciir('(l  l)y  ill  I  Host  |m'1'|»('1u;iI  mists,  is  iirroiiijiiiiiitij 
with  littlt'  lu'iit,  iiiitl  the  suliir  disk,  (•(iiiijti'cssfd  liy  n'tnictioii 
into  iiii  »'lli]»tic:il  tonii,  iiuiy  lie   look-cd  )it  witli  tlic  iiiikrtl  cyu 

witlioiit    iiicoiivriiiciicc.      Ill   spitt'  of  til mstaut   liLi'ht,  tin- 

conniioii  oi'iltT  of  tlic  j»iirts  of  tin-  il;iy  is  |i!aiiily  (lisccni- 
ible.  When  the  sun  sinks  down  to  tin*  liori/oii.  all  niiturr  is 
mute,  l)iit  when,  after  a  few  lioiirs.  it  risfs  in  the  ski<s, 
everything  awakens,  tilt'  few  little  hinls  hreak  out  in  feelilr 
twitter,  anil  the  shrivelletl  llowei-s  venture  to  o[ien  their 
petals. 

Althou;;"h  winter  and  sunniier  are  in  reality  tin.'  onl}'  seasons. 
vet  the  inhahitants  fanev  tliev  have  sitriiiLi'  when  about  noun 
the  rays  of  the  sun  hey-in  to  make  themselves  felt,  which 
jjfenerally  takes  plaee  about  the  mitldle  of  March,  but  tliis 
so-oalle<l  spriiiLH"  luis  frequent  ni^-ht  frosts  of  twenty  de^^'et-s. 
Their  autumn  is  reekoned  from  the  time  when  the  rivers 
beiji^in  to  freeze  over,  that  is,  from  the  iirst  tlays  of  Septembei'. 
Avheu  a  ci>M  of  thirtv  de<«'rees  is  alreatlv  bv  no  means  iiii- 
common.  As  nniy  easily  be  supposed  in  a  climate  like  this. 
the  vee-etation  of  summer  is  scarcely  more  than  a  struu'ul'' 
for  existence. 

Tn  the  latter  end  oi'  May  the  stunted  willo\v-l»uslies  ]'iit 
out  little  wrinkletl  leaves,  ami  those  banks  which  sli>pe  te- 
wartls  the  south  become  dothetl  with  a  senii-vertlant  lni": 
in  June  the  temperature  at  noon  attains  72  ;  the  fltiwcrs 
show  themselves,  ami  the  ben-y-bearinn'  i»lants  blossom. 
when  sometimes  an  icy'  blast  from  the  sea  destroys  tln' 
bloom.  Tht>  air  is  clearest  in  July,  ami  the  temperature 
is  usually  mild,  but  then  a  new  }»la«4'ue  arises  for  the  torment 
(»f  man.  Millit»ns  and  millions  of  niosf|uitoes  issue  from  tiic 
swanqis  of  the  tuiitlra,  ami  comiiel  the  inhabitants  to  seek 
refut^t'  in  the  tlense  ami  pun;;"ent  smt»ke  of  the  '  dyniokiuy.' 
or  larii'e  heaps  of  fallen  leaves  an<l  damp  wood,  which  nrc 
kiiiiUed  near  the  dwelling's  and  on  the  pasture  uTounds,  as  the 
onlv  means  of  ketMiini''  ()ff  those  iibtmiinabK*  insects. 

These  tormentors,  however,  are  not  without  use,  for  tiny 
compel  the  reintleer  to  nii(.:Tati'  frtiiii  the  jbi-ests  to  the  sea- 
shore and  the  iie.  thus  exposiu2'  them  tti  the  nttaek  ol'  the 
hunters,  antl  they  alsvt  prevent    tlit>   horn's  Iroiii  strayiiii;'  in 


(•I.IMATK    Ol'    MSIINK    K()!A.MSK. 


i»r,3 


till'  iihiins,  iiiitl  w.iiiilt'i'iiiu;'  lu'voinl  tlio  in'otoctioii  of  tlio 
-iin  'K'l'. 

Sriirci'ly  is  tlic  nn>s(jiiit(»  pl;iou,>  ;\\  jni  oinl,  wln'U  the  dcnsL' 
.Hitimiii  lo^s  risiii;^"  tVum  ihc  sen  spoil  tlit'  (.'iijoyiiicnt  of  the 
h-'t  iiiiM  h<»urs  wliicli  iirciL'th'  the  iiiiic  months'  wiiittT.  in 
.liiiiiiiiiy.  the  (•(•M  iiicrt-ascs  Id  —  l-'t  ;  hivatliiiiy- Iht'ii  bocouii'S 
ilitrK-iilt  ;  ihc  wild  rciiidn'r,  the  iiidiLi't'iioiis  inhahitiint  of  the 
I'dlar  i'(>yi(>ii,  wit lidraws  to  the  thickest  pai'l  of  the  I'orest, 
ami  sjaiids  there  mot ioiilrss,  as  if  deprivi'd  of  life. 

With  the  '2'2\h\  Xovemlx'i-  lu'i^in.-,  a  iiii:ht  of  thivty-fiijfht 
ila\s.  relieved  in  soiiie  (It'o-rce  hv  the  stronir  refraction  and  the 
wliitf  of  the  snow,  as  well  as  hy  the  moon  and  tiie  aurora. 
<  »ii  the  2sth  l)erend)er  the  first  j»ale  <^-lininierin;;f  of  dawn 
appears,  wliich  even  at  noon  does  not  ol)scnre  the  stars. 
W  itii  the  reappearance  of  the  sun  the  cold  increases,  and 
:s  most  intense  in  Fehruarv  and  j\[arch  at  the  rising'  of 
ilif  SUM.  Mveii  in  winter.  conii>letely  deai*  (hiys  are  very 
rare,  as   the   cold   sea    wind   covers  the    land  with  nusts  and 


The  chai'acter  of  the  ve^'etation  corresponds  Avith  that  of 
ilie  climate.  Moss,  stunted  i^rass.  dwarlish  willov,'  sln'uhs, 
aiv  all  that  the  ]ilace  [iroduces.  The  iiei^hhourint;'  valleys  of 
tile  Aniuj,  protected  by  mountains  ai^ainst  the  sea  wind,  liave 
a  -omewhat  richer  llora.  for  here  i^row  l)erry-1.)earine'  plaids, 
ilie  hirch.  the  i)o[ilar.  ahsiidh,  thyme,  and   the   low  creepin;^' 


vIl'lPl 


ar.      This    poverty.  Jiowever,  of   the  vep.'talde    world  is 
iu'ly   contrasted  with  tlie  profusion   <»f  animal   life  over 


th. 


>e  sliores 


and  on  th(^  Polar  Sea.     Reindeer,  elks,  hears 


ti'\e-:,  sables,  and  ^'rey  stpdrrels  till  the  u[)land  forests, 
wliije  stone  foxes  l)urrow  iii  the  low  •^•rounds.  FiUornious 
IliLilils  of  swans,  ;4'eese,  and  ducks  ai'rive  in  spring-,  and 
sirk  deserts  where  thev  mav  moult  and  build  their  nests  in 
>arety.  Ka;_i'les,  owls,  and  ;^'ulls  pursue  their  prey  alony*  the 
>ia-(oast  ;  ptarnue'an  run  in  trooj>s  amou;^'  the  bushes;  little 
^11  i pes  are  bus v  a mone-  the  brooks.  In  tlu'  morasses  the  crows 
uitlier  I'ound  the  lints  id'  the  natives;  and  when  the  sun 
les  in  sprinii'.  the  traveller  may  even  s(»metiiiies  hear  the 
■  of  the    liiicli.  and   in   autumn  that   of  the  thrush,      lint 


-iiii 


laixl 


scape  remains  ( 


Irearv  ami  tlead  :  all  denotes  that  hero 


limits  of  the  habitalde  i-arth  are   [Kissed,  ami  one  asks 


204 


THE    ru LA U    WUKMJ. 


witli  iistoiushmcnl  wliiit  foiild  iiuliicc  hmiiiui  Ix'iii'^s  ia  lal\ 
p  tlii'ir  uIhkIc  ill  so  comtortlcss  a  region  y 


u 


111  ilic  distrit't   of  Kolvinslc,  wliici 


I  sui'iiiisscs  iji  size  iii.'iiiv 


ail  Eiini|u'an  kiii<,'<l(tiii.  llic  |H.|niI;iti()ii,  at  llic  time  (»t'  W'ran- 
^'f'lr.s  visii,  coiisistt'd  of  :;j."»  ({ussiniis,  I  Jt:5 1  Jakiils.  aii<l  I .  l-l'.t 
.ill  leu  hi  res  of  the  liialc  sex.  of  wlioiii  li.lT-"'.  liad  to  \K\y  tli. 
Jassak,  fonsistinj^;  of  S0:»  fox  ainl  2><  snMc  skins,  woitli 
0,7(il'  roii])I('S,  l)('si(l('s  which  llicy  were  iaxi'd  to  tlic  aiiiounl 
of  1(>,S  1-7  i'oiil)l('s  ill  nioiii'v.  'riins  the  Iiussi:tii  doiilplf-ca-jli- 
made,  and  no  doubt  still  iiiaki  s.  tin'  poor  pcoiilf  of  Kolviii-k 
pay  rati II T  dear  for  tin-  honour  of  lis  iii'_;'  under  the  protfi-t  i( n 
of  its  talons. 

Tilt'  Cossacks,  in  viiiiic  of  (heir  dcs-cnl  from  tlic  orJLiinal 
C'Oinpiorors  of  the  country,  enjoy  the  ciniahlc  privilcLfc  ff 
l)t'ini>'  tax  free;  tliov  arc  however,  ohii^-'  'i  to  render  niilitarv 


S(n'vice   A\hen    retjuired 


Tl 


lit; 
lev   loriii   the   small    e'arrisoii  ef 


Nishiio  Kolvmsk,  and  evei'v  \car  twentv-live  of  lliem  veiair 

«  ■       (  1  1 

to  the  fair  of  Ustrowm)je.  to  keej>  the  wild  Trhuktclii  ju 
cheek.  The  Kiissiaus  are  chiefly  the  descendants  ol'  fiu'- 
hunters  (»r  of  exiles;  ami  tlioM^h  they  liave  adopted  tlic 
native  clothing' an<l  iikkIc  of  life,  they  are  still  di>tiiii;iii.-]iaMe 
by  their  more  muscular  frame.  I'iie  women.  avIki  are  soin.  - 
what  better  lookinn'  than  the  female  Jakuts  and  Jukahircs, 
arc  fond  of  iniisie.  and  their  ti'aditioual  sonc-s  dwell  on  llic 
beauties  of  nature  the  rustliiiL;"  brook,  the  flowery  iiieail. 
the  iii^'htiiiti-ale's  note  all  thiiii^s  lteh.)nL;'iiig  to  a  world  I'l' 
whiidi  they  have  no  id(  a. 

The  dwellin^'-.s  of  the  Russians  are  hardly  to  be  distin- 
^•uished  from  the  jurts  of  the  native  tribes.  They  are  luade 
of  drift-wood,  and,  as  may  easily  be  imauiued,  are  very  small 
and  low.  The  interstices  ari'  carefully  stopped  np  with 
moss,  and  the  outside  is  covered  with  a  thit  k  layer  (d'  clav. 
An  external  mud  wall  rises  to  the  heiybt  of  the  reof  to  kci'p 
otf  the  wind.  In  a  hut  like  this  Wraiie-dl  sjient  iiiaiiy 
a  winter  niontli,  but  when  the  eold  was  very  intt'use.  he 
Avas  not  able  to  lay  aside  any  ]>art  of  his  fur  clothiiiLi".  thon-h 
sittin<relose  to  a  lar^'e  lire.  When  he  wanted  to  write'  he  had 
to  ket-'p  the  inkstand  in  hot  wati'r;and  at  nitj-ht,  wln'U  the 
lire  was  allowed  to  e-o  (,ul  lor  a  >hort  time,  his  bedeh'tli 'S 
were  always  covered  with  a  thick  snow-like  rime. 


TK.\IMN(J    or    SIJ:i)(JK-I)0(iS. 


'it; 


l/.i'  niiiiu- 

.f  WlMl,"- 

Ji.l  l.l:!!t 

l>:iy  ill' 

S,     Wnl'tli 
'    itillOIIIlt 

li|t'-t';|<^!.' 
(\nl_VIi:-k 

rotiM-iicii 

'  oriLiiiiiil 
\  ill 'Ml.  ,,|' 

iiiilit;i!v 
ri'i.-^titi  nf 
'111  T('|.;iiv 
iktclii  ill 
;  (.1"  I'lir- 
i]|p1('«1  til'' 
i'lii.'^liaMi' 

Vi'    Sullr- 

iiknliliv-. 

1     Otl    til'' 

•y  iik'ihI. 

Wt.ivltl   i'( 

('    (lisliii- 

irc   iiiiiili' 

vy  siiia'l 

wyt    wit  II 

(if  cla} . 

f  to   kri  |. 

lit  iiia;i\' 
(•use.  Ip' 
;•.  tlioii-h 
,.  1h'  h.'.l 
lii'U  lai- 
■dck.tlb'.s 


'I'ln'  t'xisti'iici'  of  tilt'  j»('(i]>lt'  of  Kojymsk  (1)']i('Ih1s  u|miii 
lisliiiiL;'  1111(1  liiiiitiiiu',  ill  wliicli  tlicy  are  iissislcd  l»y  tlicir 
'liiM's.  Tlicsc  fiiitlifiil.  l)iit  criiclly-trciilcd  iiiiiiiiiils.  iirc  siiid 
111  ri'sciiililc  the  udlt'.  liaviiiy  Ioml;'.  iiointcd.  project  in:;'  noses, 
.diar|i  and  ii|tiiL;lit  ciirs,  and  loii^'  Imsliy  tails.  Tlicir  c(tIour 
i-  I'l  iclc.  In'ouii.  rcddish-Iirowu,  while,  and  s|Mitted,  tlicir 
liMWJiiii;'  lliat  of  a  wolf.  In  sninnier  tliey  dit:'  holes  in  the 
i^'i'dimd  I'oi"  coolness,  or  lie  in  the  water  to  csca|>>'  the 
iiios(|n!t(»es  :  in  winter  ihey  hurrow  in  the  snow,  and  lie 
i'iiil''d  nji.  with  their  noses  coMTcd  with  their  Imshv  laiN. 
Tile  ]ire[pa rat  ion  of  t  hese  animals  for  a  jonrnev  nmst  lie  carc- 
I'liilv  attend, 'd  to;  {\,y  II  forliiio'lij  ;it  Ica-t  tliev  should  he 
I  III  on  a  small  allowance  of  hard  t'ood,  tocoincrl  their  su- 
iMilliions  flit  into  lii'ni  lloli  ;  they  must  also  he  driNcn  from 
till  to  iweiiiy  ndles  daily,  alter  which  they  lia\e  heen  known 
;  •  ti'.ivel  a  hnndi'ed  niiies  a  day  wilhoiit  heinu;'  injured  hy  it, 
A  team  coii>i.-is  coinnioiily  of  twelve  do^s,  and  it  is  ot' 
iinjMirtaiice  that  1  hey  should  he  acciistonied  to  dra  w  toLi'ct  her. 
file  (jiiick  and  steady -^'oin^'  of  the  team,  as  well  as  1  he  safety 
■  ','llie  tra\ellei'.  mainly  de]ien(ls  on  the  docility  an«l  saL:a<'ity 
'•I'  the  foreniost  doo'  or  li-ailer.  No  jiains  are  thcrefori' 
scared  in  liis  education,  so  that  he  may  nnderstaml  ami 
I'hcy  his  niaster\:  orders,  and  |irevent  the  rt  n1  IVoni  sl;irtiii'^' 
<m1' in  |»nrsuit  of  the  stone  foxes  oi-  other  animals  that  may 
chance  to  cross  their  jiath.  Their  usual  food  is  frozen  tish, 
and  ten  li'ood  hcrriiiLi's  are  saidtoix'  a  pr(j[)er  daily  allowaiict* 
I'T  each  (hiL;'  wdiile  on  duty.  AVheii  not  actively  employed, 
ihi'v  are  olili'_;('d  to  content  themselves  with  offal,  and 
t'lwards  s[irinu',  when  the  winter's  ]irovi>iions  are  ;^'euerally 
cxlini^led,  they  suffer  the  keenest  hnnu'er. 

This  season  is  also  a  hard  time  for  i  ho  waii(h'riii^' t  rihes 
"1' 1  he  iicii^hhoiirliood.  Then  tlicy  llock  to  Nisline  K'olymsk, 
and    to   ihf   other   IJilssian   settlemenls  on    the    KoKiiia,   hnt 


I'e  also  famine  stares  ihem  in  the  fai 


TI 


lere  IS.  nidecd.  a. 


(■(  I 


iijic  corn  magazine,  hnt  ihe  [U'ice  of  Hour  is  raised  hy  llu; 
■t  of  transport  to  such  an  exorhitant  lieie-ht,  as  to  be  coin- 

I'litely     heyoiid     the     reach    of    the     majority    of    tile     people. 

Tl:rei'  such  dreadtul   sprin;^s  did  \\"ranu;'cll  i>ass  at  Kolynisk, 
v/uiiessiiiL;'  scenes  of  misery  never  to  l)e  foro'otten. 

liut  when  the  distress  < if  the  people  has  reached  its  highest 


206 


Till'.    I'oLAK    WoRl.lt. 


]»oiMt,  iclit'l  is  yoiHTiilly  ;il  Ii;iin1.  'ri'(K»)is  of  miyTiilury  liiitls 
t'oliic  (Vniii  ill*'  siMitli,  ;iinl  I'liniish  sollic  fond  tor  IImj  tlcspiiirill^ 
[Htjiiiliititin.  Tilt'  sii|>|tly  is  iiicrt'iiscd  in  .Imif,  avIh-m  tlir 
ice  WiTiiks  (111  tilt'  Kolyiii:!,  lor  in  s|titt'  <•!'  tin'  tiinltinrss  cf 
tlic  nets  iind  the  want  of  skill  of  the  tisln'nin'ii,  tlic  rivrf 
is  the  iifinri|»;il  sonn-e  of  |ilriity  diirin;^"  tlu'  su'iiiiicr,  iiml 
siii)|>lit's,  moreover,  tlit*  fliiff  jirovisioiis  for  the  foljowin;,; 
wintrr.  Hut  with  tlu-sf  y'ifts  the  Kolyma  ln'in;^s  tlir  iila;;ii<' 
of  ininitlations,  so  that  during'  tlir  siimnicr  of  Isl'2  Wimii- 
^t'll  was  oblij^cd  to  s])i'nd  ii  whole  week  on  the  tiat  roof  nt 
]iis  hut. 

'V\ii'  chief  rrsourco  of  the  Jukahires  of  the  river  Aniuj  i^ 
ilu>  reindeer  chase,  the  suct-ess  of  whiili  mainly  decidi-- 
whether  famine  or  some  de^'ree  of  comfort  is  to  he  tlieii'  l>\ 
during'  the  coming-  winter.  The  jMssai;"e  of  the  reindnr 
takes  place  twice  :i  year;  in  sprini^.,  when  the  mosijuitocs 
compel  them  to  set'k  tht>  sea-shore,  where  they  feed  on  tin' 
iiKtss  of  th(>  tundra,  and  in  antujiin,  Avhen  the  iiicreasini;' 
cold  forces  thmi  to  retire  from  the  coast.  Tlie  spring' 
mifjration,  which  hey'ins  ahont  the  middle  of  ^Fay,  is  not  veiy 
profitable,  partly  because  the  animals  are  meai;"re,  and  tln'ir 
furs  in  bad  condition,  and  partly  because  it  is  moi-*'  ditticult  \ii 
kill  them  as  tlu'v  pass  the  frozen  rivers.  The  chief  hunting- 
is  in  Au^'ust  and  Se[»tember,  when  the  herds,  consisting*  each 
of  s(»veral  thousand  <leer,  return  to  the  forests.  They  in- 
variably cross  the  river  at  a  particular  s[iot,  wliere  a  tint 
sandy  bank  makes  their  landing-  easier;  and  here  they  press 
mttre  closely  to;^vther,  under  the  j^iiidance  of  the  stronL;cst 
animals  of  the  herd. 

The  passay-e  takes  place  after  some  hesitation,  and  in  a 
few  minutes  the  river  is  covered  with  swim]nin;j^  reinderr. 
The  liunters,  hidden  in  creeks  or  behind  stones  and  buslics. 
now  shoot  forth  in  their  small  boats  and  wound  as  many  as 
they  can.  While  thev  are  thus  busv,  thev  run  s<ime  risk  (4' 
being'  overturned  in  the  turmoil,  for  the  bucks  defend  them- 
selves with  their  horns,  their  teeth,  and  their  hind  K  ;:s, 
while  the  roes  g-enerally  attempt  to  spring  with  their  fore- 
feet upon  the  edge  of  the  boat.  AVhen  the  hunter  is  thus 
overset,  his  only  chance  of  safety  is  to  cling  to  a  strong' 
animal,   which   safelv   brings    him    to  tiie    shore.      iJut   the 


KKINDKKU    lllNTIN(i. 


•Jtj7 


ry  Itirils 
<piiiriiiu 
ini  tllr 
ilirss  nf 
ic  rive)' 
(•i%  ami 
illowiii- 

Wn.ii- 
rool'  lit 

Aiiiiij  i> 

(Icciilr-^ 

h.'ir  l..t 
rt'iiidcri' 
iS(iiiito('s 

1     oil    lllf 

cn'iisiii^' 
•  sjiriii:^' 
not  VI 'IV 
ml  tlii'ir 
ttlcult  In 
liimtiiiL;' 
iii;4"  ciirli 
11  icy  in- 
V  a  Hill 
iry  press 
troiiL;'r>t 

iiiil  ill  ;i 

IHUllilt'i'l'. 
l)U.slu'S, 

iiKiiiy  as 
'  risk  I't' 
\d  tlifiii- 

1h1     ll'LI'S, 

icir  i'lirr- 

is   ilins 

11    .stnuiL;' 

j;ut   tilt' 


.Icxfrrity  of  till'  liiuitri's  i-i'iidfrs  such  acciilriits  rare  A 
■.;mih1  liiintfr  will  kill  a  Imiulrcil  rfiinlccr  aii*l  more  in  halt' 
III  lioi;r.  Jii  the  lucaiitiiiit'  the  other  hoats  sei/e  the  killed 
animals,  whieh  heeonie  their  |ii'0|ierty,  while  those  that  are 
merely  woinnled  and  swim  ashore  l»elon;4'  to  the  hunters,  who, 
III  the  midst  of  the  tumult,  whei'e  all  their  eiierLiies  are  taxed 
\<>  the  utmost,  direct  their  strokes  in  sueh  a  manner  as  only 
,>i\erely  to  w(»und  the  lare;er  animals.  The  noise  of  the 
lii'i'iis    sti"ikin;4"  a^i'ainst   eaidi  other,  the  watei's  tinp'd  with 

111 1,  the  cries  of  the  Inuiters,  the  snorting'  of  the  allVii^'hted 

iiiiiiiials.  form  a  scene  not  to  he  descrihed. 

'i"he  peojile  of  the  Aniuj  were  already  sufterinpf  ;;'reat 
ilistress  when,  on  Septemher  ]'2,  1S:21,  the  eagerly  cxjtcctcd 
reindeer  herds  made  their  a[tpt'araiice  on  the  ri-^ht  hank  of 
the  river,  \ever  had  such  a  multitude  heeii  seen,  they 
(c'Vered  the  hills,  and  their  horns  mi;;'ht  have  hi'cu  mis- 
taken at  a  distance  for  a  moving-  forest,  in  a  short  time 
iiimibers  of  the  Siberian  tribes  had  assend)led,  ready  to  destroy 
tliem.  Jhit  the  wary  animals,  alarmed  by  some  circumstance 
"V  o1her,took  anothcrroad,  and  leaviui;' the  l)anks  of  the  river, 
vanished  on  the  mountains.  The  despaii*  of  the  [»eoplc  may 
Im'  imayined;  some  lamented  aloud  and  wrun^' their  hands, 
iitliers  threw  themsehes  upon  the  ;^'round  and  scratched  uj> 
tlie  snow,  others  stood  motionless  like  statues — a  <lreadfiil 
iiiiau'e  of  the  universal  mist'rv.  The  later  iishin-jf  season  like- 
wise  failed  in  this  deplorable  year,  and  many  hundreds  died 
ill  the  following-  winter. 

While  the  men  c»f  Kolymsk  are  busily  employed  durinj^- 
llie  short  summer  in  hunting-,  fishing-,  and  hay-making", 
tile  Women  wander  over  the  countrv,  narticnlarlv  in  tia; 
ninuntains,  to  ^'ather  edibliM'oots,  aromatic  herbs,  andbciTii'S 
I't'  various  kinds,  which  latter,  however,  do  not  every  year 
arrive  at  maturitv.  The  berrv-<4'athei'iii'_;'  here,  like  the 
viiitai^'e  elsewhere,  is  a  time  of  nierrinient.  The  youiiu'er 
vviiiiicn  and  L^'irls  ;4"o  to;;"ether  in  larj^V'  pai'ties,  ])assinL;'  whole 
ilays  and  nights  in  the  open  air.  When  the  berries  are 
rnllected,  cold  water  is  poured  over  them,  and  they  are  pre- 
served in  a  frozen  state  for  a  wint<'r  treat.  Smial  parties 
are  not  unknown  at  Kolymsk,  and  are  perhajrs  not  less 
'  iilertaininu'  than  in   more  reliiieil  communities.      Hoods  of 


'2(iS 


Till-;    I'OI.AK    WoULf). 


Avciik  ir;\  (for  <lio  nromiific  IftivcH  '  wliicli  r-lit'or,  Imt  not 
iii<'l»riiit<' '  nrt'  very  «l<'iii'  iit  K'nlyinsk)  form  (lie  stii|ilt'  nf  tlic 
•  'iitcrtiiiimiciit  :  iiml  us  Hii;_'!ir  is  also  an  cxiM'nsivc  artii'lr, 
every  yiicst  tiikes  a  liinip  (trcaiKly  in  liis  iimntli,  lets  tlie  fni 
wliicli  lie  sips  (low  l>y,  and  tlicn  replaces  il  npon  tlie  saiici  r. 
It  wmild  l»i>  <'()iisi(lere(l  very  nnniannerly  wen'  Iw  to  consnin  ■ 
llie  wliolc  piicc,  \\liicli  llnis  is  al»le  1(»  <lo  duty  at  nnn'c  tlnin 
(Mil'  siiirr,'.  Next  to  tea,  lirantly  is  a  (dili-f  rt'(piisite  of  n 
J\olynislv  ]iariy. 

'lilt'  Ittisiest  time  at  K'olymslc  is  in  l'\'l>i'nary,  wlicn  tln' 
earavaii  from  .lakntsk  arrives  on  its  way  to  tie'  fair  of 
( )sj  ro\vnoj('..  Il  consists  of  al>ont  twenty  niei'cliunts,  each 
of  wlioiii  lends  IVcnii  ten  to  foi'ty  siinipter  horses.  This 
is  the  time  not  only  foi'  sale  and  purchase,  Imt  also  for  le'ar- 
inn"  the  last  news  from  the  jtroviiKMiil  ca[iital  .lakiitsk,  and 
receiviiio-  inti'lli;;'ence  six  juohths  (dd  from  ]\r«.>scow  and  St. 
J*et('rsl)ui-^;h. 


From  this  short 


aci 


■i>unt   of  Kolvnisk  life   it    mav  well  h 


iniay'ined  what  a  sens.it itm  it  nnist  have  made  in  so  setdiided 


a  1 


ilace  \v 


hen  WraiiLi'ell   arrived  then'  in   >sovend.u'r,  and  ii 


formed  the  people  that  he  was  come  to  speial  the  ln,'tter  i»;ir 


o 


ft] 


le  nex 


t  tl 


iree  vcars  anKae. 


'_;•  then 


The  Avinter  -was  jiassed  in  prei>aration  for  tlie  next  s]irin<^' 
expeditions,  for  dnrim^-  1h<_'  lon^'  Arctic  ni<4'lit  the  darkness 
prevents  travellinii'.  and  the  snow  ac(piires  a  ]ieculiar  hard- 
ness oi"  sliarpness  iVom  the  extreme  cold,  so  that  then  four 
times  tlie  nunil»er  of  do^s  would  be  needed.  lint  as  in 
summer  the  thawing'  is  likewise  a  hindrance,  WranLi'ell  hail 
in  reality  only  about  ten  weeks  every  year,  from  ]\Iar(  h  till 
the  end  (d'.^^ay,  for  the  aecom[)lishmont  of  his  task. 

As  may  easily  be  supposed,  it  Avas  no  easy  nnitter  to  make 


th 


nil' 


le  necessary  arrane'cnients  lor  an  expedition  refpurin"^'  soi 
luindreds  of  doe's,  and  provisions  for  several  Aveeks  :  Imt  sm-li 
Avas  the  enere'>  disiilayed  l)y  WranevU  and  his  coUeaynes, 
that  on  February  ll>,  1821,  they  Avere  aide  to  start  on  their 
first  ioiirnevoA'er  the  ice  of  the  Polar  Sea,  Avhich  thev  reached 
on  the  '2^)\]i.  Nine  sled^^'es,  Avith  the  nsnal  team  oi'  twelve 
dogs  to  each,  wei-e  provided  for  the  present  excursion,  six  of 
Avhich  were  to  carrv  provisions  and  stores,  to  be  distributed 


in  different  depots^,  and  then  to  retnv 


n. 


The 


proA'isions  foi 


AIKTK"    TIIAVKI,. 


*;<>!) 


th.'  \]n<XA  consisted  <»f  'J,  |<M>  iV.sll  llcn-illu'S,  jIImI  iis  iniK'll 
•  jiikolii  '  !is  was  ('(juiviilciil  fo  sJ.'iO  di'ii'tl  lifrriii^s.  Tin' 
inert '11  si  111,'  cold  mid  tlif  violfiict'  ofllic  wind  iiiadi'  tra\flliiit,' 
\i'rv  diniciilt.  To  yuard  tlic  d()-j:>  fV. iin  ln'inu'  iVi'/cn.  tin' 
ilrivi'is  were  (lUliiji'd  to  pnl  clnfliiii'^'  on  llicir  iMidics.  and  a 
kind  lit"  Itool:-)  on  Ihfir  t'ci't,  w  liidi  u''i'''itl\  ini|MM|,  ,|  tln-ir 
niiiiiiiii^'.  At  tiiiii's  lln'  iVost  was  so  iiilrii>.'.  th.it  tlii-  iin'riMirv 
riii^calt'd  uliilt'  Wrati'/t'll  was  iiiaKiii'^'  hi-;  oli>.  r\  at  i"i!s.  Il»« 
tliiis  dcsci'ilh's  tijt'  ntaiiM'T  in  wliidi  li.'  parsed  lln-  niijils  nii 
till'  I'm]   r  Sea  ill  ids  ti-iit  : 

•  lii't wi't'M  lea  and  sii|i]i''r  llif  sli'd<jt'-driviTS  Wfiif  «>iil  lo 
iiiii'iid  and  t'c'd  llit'ir  do^s,  wliidi  w<'n>  always  titd  up  tor 
till'  iiiijlif.  lest  tln-v  slioiilil  Ix'  it'iiiiittd  awav  In  tlic  sci-iit  ol" 
^Miiit'  wild  aiiiiiial.  ^[t'allwllill',  wi-  wen'  I'li^^ipjcd  in  tom- 
j:iriiii;'  oiii"  ol)si'i'\  alioiis.  and  in  laving-  down  on  llh'  nsip  the 
^iToinid  wliicli  wo  lia<l  ;4'oii(' om'i*  in  lli"  loinsi'  ol'  tin'  da_\  ; 
till'  Ht'vcr*'  cold,  and  tin'  siiiokc  wliirli  n.-ualjy  lilliMl  Ihc  tent. 
^"luctiiiios  niadi'  lliis  ii(»  casv  lask.  Sn|.|icr  always  consistid 
111' a  siiin'lc  dish  of  tisli  or  meat  soup,  wlii'li  was  lioilnl  for  ns 
nil  ill  tilt'  same  1\i't  t  [e.  out  of  which  it  was  catrn.  S<  .  .u  att<i- 
^^|■  had  lini>li«'d  oiiv  meal,  tlie  whole  parly  lay  dM\';ii  to  slecj-. 
< '11  acc(tunt  of  the  cold  wc  coiihl  not  lay  a.->iile  a  n;  I'artofoiir 
ir.ivejliiin^  dress,  hut  we  re^ailarly  chanu'cil  oiir  hoots  and 
stnclcin^'s  every  eveniii'j.  ami  Iiuiil;'  those  we  InnI  taken  otV, 
\\i'|i  (Mir  fur  caps  and  li'Iovcs,  on  llie  tent  ]io|es  to  Avy.  'I'iii.s 
i-;  an  essential  preeantinn.  part  iciilaily  in  respect  to  :--iockiii;;s, 
I 'T  with  damp  clothiii;^-  there  is  the  o-vi-itcst  risk  of  the  pan 
l''iii'_;'  frozen.  We  always  spread  the  hearskins  hetweeii  the 
iVe/eii  LTround  ami  ourselves,  ami  the  t'ur  coveriiiL^'s  over  ns. 
;';id  l)ei|l^•  Avell  tired  we  usually  >!ept  \ery  soiimlly.  A:-  len^- 
:is  ail  the  sled^'c-drivers  continued  with  us  we  were  s(» 
<i(iv;ded  that  wo  had  to  place  ourselves  like  the  >poi,es  of  a 
"\\liee!,  with  our  feet  towards  the  tire  nn!  oiir  lie;i(ls  au-aiiist 
die  tent  wall.  In  the  niornine-  we  ^^'eiiemlly  !'ii-e  al  -Ix.  lit. 
'lie  tire,  and  wasluMJ  ourselves  hefore  it  with  i'l'i  sh  -;u<  w  :  we 
llii'ii  took  tea,  and  iniinodiately  aflei'wards  diiim  r  \vliieh\'>as 
similar  to  the  supper  (tf  the  niL;ht  hef<ire  .  '1  he  t>'iit  was 
llieii  struck,  aud  everything-  jiaclced  and  stowed  on  tln^ 
slede'cs,  and  at  nine  Ave   usually  took  our  de]';irl  ure.' 

Tln>    (diief    imp<Mliments    to    jourueyiiiL;"    "n    the    ice    were 


270 


TIFK    POLAK    WORLD. 


found  to  bo  tlio  Immiaoeks,  ot'ton  ei^'lity  feet  liig'li,  wliicli  lii- 
in  riJg'es  at  certain  distiinees,  pariillel  perluips  to  tlie  sliovf. 
Alonjj;"  the  line  or  lines  where  the  ice  is  periodically  broken, 
it  is  forced  l>y  2)ressure  and  the  tossing'  of  a  tenipestnons  sen 
into  those  irregndar  ridg-es  throng-li  which  Wrangell  hnd 
sometimes  to  make  a  Avay  with  crow'bars  for  half  a  mile. 
The  'polinyas/  or  spaces  of  open  w'ater  in  the  midst  of  the 
ice,  oifered  less  hindrance,  as  they  mig-ht  be  avoided ;  but  in 
this  neig'hbonrhood,  and  sometimes  even  where  no  hole  in 
the  ice  was  visible,  layers  of  salt  were  met  with,  which  cut 
the  dogs'  feet,  and  at  the  same  time  increased  the  labour  of 
the  draft,  the  sled«j:es  moving;  over  the  salt  with  as  much 
difficulty  as  they  would  over  gravel. 

In  spite  of  all  these  l.undrances,  Wrangell  extended  Ins 
exploration  of  the  coast  fifty  versts  beyond  Cape  Shelagskoi, 
where  the  want  of  fuel  and  provisions  compelled  him  to 
return.  The  depots  which  he  had  made  as  he  advanced, 
were  found  partly  devoured  by  the  stone  foxes  and  g-luttons, 
so  that  the  party  was  compelled  to  fast  during-  the  two  last 
days  of  the  journey.  After  an  absence  of  three  weeks  Nishnc 
Kolymsk  appeared  like  a  second  Capua  to  Wrang-ell,  but 
time  being-  precious  he  allowed  himself  but  a  few  days'  rest, 
and  started  afresh,  on  March  20,  for  Cape  Shelag-skoi,  with 
the  intention  of  penetrating-  as  far  as  possible  to  the  North, 
on  the  ice  of  the  Polar  Sea.  The  caravan  consisted  of 
twenty-two  sledges,  laden  with  fuel  and  provisions  for  thirty 
days,  including  food  for  2 10  dogs.  So  imposing  a  train  had 
certainly  never  been  seen  bef(»re  in  these  desolate  regions, 
for  the  part  of  the  coast  between  the  Kolyma  and  Capo 
Shelagskoi  is  wholly  uniidiabited ;  on  one  side  the  occa- 
sional excursions  of  the  Russians  terminate  at  the  BaranoAv 
rocks,  and  on  the  other  the  Tchuktchi  do  not  cross  the 
larger  Baraaow  river.  The  intervening  eighty  ve.-sts  of 
coast  are  never  visited  by  either  party,  but  considered  as 
neutral  ground.  On  April  1,  Wrangell  reached  the  borders 
of  the  Polar  Sea,  and  pi-oceeding  northward  to  71°  31',  fotind 
the  thickness  of  the  ice,  which  he  measured  by  means  of  a 
hole,  to  be  about  a  foot,  very  rotten,  and  full  of  salt ;  the 
soundings  twelve  fathoms,  with  a  bottom  of  soft  green  nuid. 
The  wind  increasing-  in  violence,  he  heard  the  sound  of  tin' 


KKTUUN'    TO    KOLYMSK. 


•271 


'liicli  lii- 
le  sliort". 

broki'ii, 
nous  scii 
rjell  liinl 

a  Diilt'. 

it  of    til.' 

;  l)\it  ill 

liolo   in 

liicli  cut 

iibonr  ot' 

as  mufli 

nded  Ins 
elan'skni, 
I  him  to 
clvant'tMl. 
gluttons, 
two  last 
:sNislnir 
o-oll,   but 
ivs'  rest, 
coi.  Avitli 
le  Nortli. 
sistod  of 
or  til  in  y 
ruin  had 
rei^'ioiis. 
nd  CV.pf 
ho  occa- 
Bavaiidw 
ross  tilt' 
ersts    (»t' 
doivd  as 
:*  bordors 
1',  found 
ans  of  a 
salt;  th.' 
eu  nind. 

id  of   tilt' 


^vator  bonoath,  and  fidt   tho   iindulatoiy  motion   of  Iho  thin 
crust  of  ice. 

'Our  position,'  says  the  Ixdd  oxjdorer,  'was  at  least  an 
anxious  one  ;  tho  more  so  as  wo  could  take  uo  stop  to  avoid 
tlio  inipondint;-  daui^'or.  I  bidiove  low  of  our  party  slept, 
rxcopt  tho  do<4's,  who  alono  woro  uuconscious  of  tho  <;roat 
probability  of  tho  icc^  boiny'  l)rokou  uj)  by  the  force  of  the 
waves.  Next  day,  the  wind  havini^  fallen,  [  liad  tw<)  of  the 
best  sledg'es  emptied,  and  ]>laced  in  them  provifeI(»ns  lor 
twenty-four  hours,  with  the  boat  aud  oars,  souu^  poles  and 
boards,  and  proceeded  northwards  to  examine  the  state  of 
the  ice;  directinj^-  M.  von  Matiiischkin,  in  case  of  dauf;"er,  to 
retire  with  the  whole  party  as  far  as  might  bo  needfid, 
\vitlK»ut  awaiting  my  return.  After  drivin<jr  through  the 
thick  briue  with  uiuch  difficvdty  for  seven  versts,  we  canu'  to 
ii  rnnnl)er  of  largo  fissures,  which  wo  passed  with  some 
trouble  by  the  aid  of  the  boards  which  we  had  brought  with 
us.  At  last  the  tissures  became  so  numerous  and  so  wide, 
that  it  was  hard  to  say  whether  the  sea  beneath  us  was 
really  still  covered  by  a  connected  coat  of  ice,  or  only  l)y  a 
number  of  deta(died  floating  fragments,  having  everywhere 
two  or  more  feet  of  water  between  them.  A  single  gust  of 
wind  would  have  been  sufheient  to  drive  these  fragments 
M^ainst  each  other,  and  being  already  thoroughly  saturated 
with  water,  they  would  have  sunk  in  a  few  minutes,  leaving 
nothing  but  sea  on  the  spot  Avhere  we  were  standing.  Tt 
was  manifestly  useless  to  attempt  going  farther  ;  we  hastened 
to  rejoin  our  com[>anions,  and  to  seek  with  them  a  place  of 
<^reater  seeurity.  Our  most  northern  latitude  was  71°  43'  at 
II  distance  of  215  versts  in  a  straight  line  from  tlu^  lesser 
Baranow  rock.'  After  rejoining  his  companions,  and  wliile 
still  on  the  frozen  sea,  so  thick  a  snow-storm  came  on,  that 
those  in  the  hindmost  sledge  could  not  see  the  loading  ones. 
Unable  either  to  pitch  their  tent  or  to  light  a  fire,  they  were 
exposed  during  tho  night  to  the  whole  fury  of  the  storm,  with 
:i  temperature  of  +  7°,  without  tea  or  soup,  and  with  nothing 
to  quench  their  thirst  or  satisfy  their  hunger  but  a  few 
niouthfuls  of  snow,  a  little  r^e  biscuit,  and  half  spoilt  fish. 
On  April  28,  they  arrived  at  Nishne  Kolymsk,  after  an 
absence  of  thirty-six  days,  during  which  they  had  travelh'd 


272 


THE    rOI.AK    WORLD. 


above  800  miles  witli  the  sauie  (log's,  men  aiulaiiiinals  liavinu" 
eqnally  suft'ered  from  eokl,  lniu<^er,  and  futigne. 

Neither  diseomfoi't, however,  nor  danger  preveute<l  Wraiigell 
from  undertaking  a  tliird  excursion  in  the  following  spring. 
He  ha<l  great  ditheulty  in  procuring  the  necessary  dogs,  a 
disease  which  raged  among  them  during  the  winter  having 
carried  off  more  than   four-fifths   of  these    useful    animals. 
At  length   his  wants  were   sup]died  by   the  people    of  the 
Indigirka,  where  the  sickness  had  not  extended,  and  on  Marcli 
14,  1.S22,  he  again  set  out  for  the  borders  of  the  Polar  Sea. 
Daring  this  expedition  a  large  extent  of  coast  was  accurately 
surveyed    by  Wrangell,  who  sent  out  his  worthy  assistant 
Matiuschkin,  with  two  companions,  in  an  unloaded  sledge, 
to  see  if  any  fm-ther  advance  could  bo  made  to  the  north. 
Having  accomplished  ten  versts,  Matiuschkin  was  stopped  by 
the  br(niking  up  of  the  ice.     Enormous  masses,  raised  by  the 
waves  into  an  almost  vertical  position,  were  driven  against 
each  otiier  with  a  dreadful  crash,  and  pressinl  downwards  by 
the   force  of  the  billows  to  reappear  again  on  tlie    surfai-e 
covered  with  the  toru-up  g-reen  nnid  which  here  forms  the 
bottom  of  th(^  sea.     It  Avould  tire  the  reader  were  1  to  relate 
all  the  miseries  of  their  return  voyage  ;  sulHce  it  to  say,  that 
worn   out  with   hunger  and  fatigue,   they    reacln.Ml    Nishue 
Ivolymsk    on    iNFay   5,  after  an  absence  »>f  fifty-seven  days. 
Such   sufferings  tind  perils  might  have  excused,  all  furtlier 
attiMupts  to  discover"  the  supposed  land  in  the  Polar  Sea,  but 
nothing  daunted  l>y  his  rej)eated  failures,  Wrangell  deter- 
mined on  a  fourth  expedition  in  182:5,  on  which  he  resohed 
to  stari   from  a  more  easterly  point.     On  reaching  the  coa^t. 
tlie  obstacles  were  found  still  gri'ater  than  on  his  previous 
visits  t(»  that  fearful  sea.     The   weatlu'r  was  tempestuou.--, 
the  ice  thin  ami  broken.      Ft  was  neci'ssary  at  times  to  cros-; 
wide  laiK.'s  of  water  on  i)ieces  of  ice  ;  at  times  tlie  tiiin  ire 


bent  beneath  the  weiu'ht  of  the  sled 


"•es,  w 


,-hicl 


i  were  then 


saved  oidy  l>y  the  sagacity  of  the  dogs,  who,  aware  of  the 
danger,  ran  at  their  greatest  speed  till  tliey  found  a  soliil 
footing.  At  length,  about  sixty  miles  from  shore,  they 
arrived  at  tlu'  vil'^e  of  an  inunense  break  in  the  ice,  extend- 
ing east  ami  west  further  than  the  eye  could  reach. 

'W(>  elindied  on(^  ol' the  loftiest  humino(dcs.*'  savs  Wrangell. 


mm 


'  wlu'iioo  we  obtiiinod  an  oxteii-sivo  view  towiinls  the  north, 
iiml  wlieiiee  wo  beheld  tlie  wideoeean  spread  before  our  ^'aze. 
It  was  a  fearful  and  niat^-niHeent,  but  to  us  a  nielaneh(»ly 
spcciaele  !  Fraj^'iiKMits  of  iee  of  enormous  size  Hoated  on  the 
surtiK'O  of  the  water,  and  W(»re  tlirown  by  the  waves  with 
awful  violence  a^'ainst  the  edj^'e  of  the  iee-lield  (»n  the  further 
si<li'  of  the  channel  before  us.  The  collisions  were  so  tre- 
iiK'udous,  that  larj^'e  masses  were  every  instant  broken  away, 
iiiid  it  was  evident  that  the  portion  of  ice  which  still  divided 
till'  channel  from  the  open  ocean,  would  so<»n  be  completely 
i|t'^;tro3'ed.  Had  wo  attempted  to  ferry  ourselves  across  upon 
I'lif  of  the  floating"  pieces  of  ice,  we  should  not  have  found 
lirm  footini*'  upon  our  arrival.  Even  on  our  own  side  fresh 
lints  of  water  were  continually  formin;^',  and  extending-  in 
ivrrv  direction  in  the  field  of  ice  behind  us.  AVe  could  <>'o 
iKt  further.  With  a  painful  feeling"  of  the  impossibility  (»f 
ovrrconiing- the  obstacles  which  nature  opposed  to  us,  our  last 
liiipt  vanished  of  discovering  the  land,  which  we  yet  believed 
t<i  exist.  We  saw  oursidves  compelled  torenounce  the  object 
till'  which  we  had  striven  through  three  years  of  hardships, 
tniK  and  danger.  We  had  done  what  honour  and  duty 
(li'iiianded ;  further  attempts  woidd  have  been  absolutely 
liMpclt'ss,  and  I  decided  to  return.' 

Thty  turned,  but  already  the  track  of  their  advance  Avas 
^rai'cely  discernible,  as  uew  lanes  of  water  had  been  formed, 
aii<l  fivsh  hummocks  raised  by  the  sea.  To  add  to  their 
ilistress,  a  storm  arose,  which  threatened  every  moment  to 
>w;illitw  u^)  the  ice  island,  on  which  they  h(tj»ed  to  cross  a 
wi'le  s[iace  of  water   which  separated   them    tVom  a  lirmer 

UTtilUl.l. 

*  We  had  been  tliree  long"  hours  in  this  position,  ami  still 
till'  mass  of  ice  beneath  us  h(>ld  together.^  when  suddenly  it 
was  caught  by  the  st<»rm,  and  hurled  against  a  large  Held  of 
i'f  :  the  crash  Avas  terrific,  and  the  mass  beneath  us  was 
>iiattered  into  fragments.  At  that  dreadful  ninuieni,  when 
'>i;ipe  seemed  impossible,  the  impulse   of  self-}»reservation, 

.'lauted  in  every  living-  being,  saved  us.  Instinctively  wo 
ill  sprang  at  once  on  the  sledg(,'S,  and  tu'ged  the  dogs  t<»  their 
lull  sjiced.  They  Hew  across  the  yielding  fragments  to  the 
'i'ld  on  which  we  had  been  stranded,  and  safely  reaclie(l  a 

T 


111 


274 


tin:  POLAii  wniuj). 


h 


part  of  it  of  firinov  elmracter,  oinvhioh  were  several  Inmiiuoc-ks. 
where  the  do^-s  iuuiie<liiite]y  ceased  running,  eoiiseiuiis,  aji- 
pareiitly,  that  tlie  daii^^'er  was  past.  We  were  saved!  ^,\i^ 
jt>yt'ull\'  (nnhraeed  eaeli  other,  and  uiiiled  in  thaid<s  to  (iml 
ibr  our  preservation  from  suih  imminent  peril.' 

But  their  misfortunes  did  not  end  here  ;  they  were  out  nil 
from  the  deposit  of  their  provisions;  they  were  oOO  veisis 
from  their  nearest  ma^'azines,  and  the  food  for  the  doj^'s  was 
now  barely  sufficient  for  three  days.  Their  joy  may  be  inia- 
o;ined  when,  after  a  few  versts'  travelling,  they  fell  in  with 
Matiusehkin  and  his  party,  brin<^'in^-  with  them  an  abundant 
supply  of  provisions  of  all  kinds. 

To  leave  nothing  undone  which  could  possibly  be  effect nl. 
Wrangell  advanced  to  the  eastward  along  the  coast,  past  (^qic 
North,  seen  in  Cook's  last  voyage,  and  proceeded  as  far  as 
Koliutsehin  Island,  where  he  fmmd  some  Tchuktchi,  wIki 
ha<l  come  over  from  Behring's  Straits  to  trade. 

With  this  journey  terminated  Wrangtll's  labours  on  the 
coasts,  or  on  the  surface  of  the  Polar  Sea,  and,  at  the  begin- 
ning of  the  following  winter,  Ave  find  him  taking  a  tiiial 
leave  of  Nishne  Kolymsk.  On  January  10,  1S2  !■,  he  arrived 
at  Jakutsk,  and  a  few  months  later  at  Petersl)urg.  If  \vi' 
consider  the  difficulties  he  had  to  encounter,  and  his  luitiriiiii' 
zeal  and  courage,  in  the  midst  of  privations  and  dangers, 
it  is  only  fair  to  admit  that  his  name  deserves  to  l)e  rankeil 
among  the  most  distingnished  exj)lorei's  of  the  Arctic  world. 


'1  lic  BUtcK  (.li.iikuiot. 


.;;  ■^;^!si*,. 


Uchutsk. 


(MIAPTEK   XXI. 

THE    TUNGUSI. 

Tlirir  l\ilatioii.slii|i   ti>  tlir  M;iiuUcliu  -  I)ri;iilt'iil  (,'iinilitii)ii  dt   ihr  <»l|ll•.l•^I  Noin.ni- 
Cliiirai'toi'   of    till'    Tuiiji;usi     'I'licir    Omfit    tor    iIk'    ("lia-c      iHar-liuntiiii:' 
I'ui'lliii^'s  -  Diet      A  Ni^dit's  Halt  willi  'riiii^iisi  in  tlic  l'"()i'fst  -Oclmtsk. 

rpilOUGH  both  bt'louj^iiig'  to  the  same  stock,  the  fate  of  the 
L  Tuiio'iisi  and  Mandsehii  has  been  very  (lift'ereut ;  for  at 
the  same  time  when  the  latter  eonqui'red  the  vast  C*liinese 
iMii[iire,  the  former,  after  havini:^  spread  over  the  f^Teati'sl 
{i;irt  of  East  Siberia,  and  driven  before  them  the  Jakiifs,  flic 
Jiikahiri,  the  Tehuktchi,  and  many  otlier  aboriginal  tribes, 
were  in  their  tnrn  subjnLiated  l)y  the  mi;;litier  linssians.  In 
tl'.e  year  lOJO  the  Cossacks  tii'st  enconntered  the  Tnnt,'usi, 
and  in  lOti  the  lirst  Mandschn  emjx'ror  mounted  the 
rldnese  throne.  The  same  race  which  liere  imposes  its  voice 
u])on  nullions  of  sn1)jects,  there  falls  apreyto  a  small  number 
(if  adventurers.  However  strang-e  the  fact,  it  is,  liowever, 
easily  e.\[>lained,  for  the  Chinese  were  worse  armed  and  less 
•lisciplincd  than  the  Mandschn,  while  tlie  Tun^-usi  had  nothing- 


270 


Till-:    I'OLAK    WOUI.I). 


but  bows  auj  arrows  to  opi»osetothe  Cossack  firo-arnis ;  ami 
history  (from  Alexander  the  Great  to  Sadowa)  teaches  us  thai 
victory  eonstautly  sith'S  with  the  best  weapons. 

In  their  intellectual  development  we  find  the  same  difl'ei-- 
ence  as  in  their  fortunes  between  the  Mandschu  and  the 
Siberian  Tunyusi.  Two  hundred  and  fifty  years  a<;o  the 
former  were  still  nomads,  like  their  northern  kinsfolk,  and 
could  neither  read  nor  write,  and  already  they  have  a  rich 
literature,  and  their  lan;mua«j;-e  is  spoken  at  the  court  <if' 
Poking- ;  while  the  Tunyusi,  oppressed  and  sunk  in  poverty, 
are  still  as  igncn-ant  as  Avhen  they  fii'st  encountered  the 
Cossacks. 

According'  to  their  occupations,  and  the  various  domestic 
animals  employed  by  them,  they  are  disting-uislved  by  tlie 
names  of  Reindeer,  Horse,  Dog-,  Forest,  and  River  Tnngusi ; 
but  although  they  are  found  from  the  basins  of  the  Upper, 
Middle,  and  Lower  Tunguska,  to  the  western  shores  of  tlu; 
Sea  of  Ochotsk,  and  from  the  Chinese  frontiers  and  the 
Baikal  to  the  Polar  Ocean,  their  whole  nundjer  does  not 
amount  to  more  than  '"JOjOUO,  and  diminishes  from  year  to 
year,  in  consequence  of  the  ravages  of  the  small-pox  and 
other  epidemic  disorders  transmitted  to  them  by  the  Rus- 
sians. Only  a  few  rear  horses  and  cattle,  the  reindeer  beiiiii' 
generally  their  domestic  animal ;  and  the  impoverished 
Tunguse,  who  has  been  deprived  of  his  herd  by  some  C(  n- 
tagious  disorder,  or  tlie  ravages  of  the  wolves,  lives  as  a 
fisherman  on  the  borders  of  a  rivi'r,  assisted  by  his  dog,  or 
retires  into  the  forests  as  a  promyschlenik  or  hunter.  Of  the 
miseries  which  here  await  him,  Wrangell  relates  a  midancliolv 
instance.  In  a  solitary  hut  in  one  of  the  dreariest  wilder- 
nesses imaginable,  he  found  a  Tunguse  and  his  daughter. 
While  the  father,  with  his  long  snow-shoes,  was  pursuing  a 
reindeer  for  several  days  together,  this  inifortuiuite  girl  re- 
mained alone  and  helpless  in  the  hut,  which  even  in  summoi' 
afforded  but  an  imperfect  shelter  against  the  rain  and  wind, 
exposed  to  the  cold,  and  frequently  to  hunger,  and  without 
the  least  occupation.  No  wonder  that  the  impoverished 
Tungusi  not  seldom  sink  into  cannil)alism.  Neither  the 
reindeer  nor  the  d<»gs,  nor  the  wives  and  children  cd'  their  more 


Trn::  'itntu'sr  ciiARArTKR. 


'277 


I'.irtunato  oouiitrvincn,  aiv  sociin'  l'n»m  the  uttacks  iiiul 
voracity  of  those  outcasts,  who,  in  their  turn,  are  treated 
like  Avikl  beasts,  and  destroyed  wit  hold  nu'rrv.  A  bartering;' 
trade  is,  however,  carrietl  on  with  them,  bnt  oidy  at  a  distance, 
and  by  si^^Tis  ;  each  party  depositin*^'  its  yoods,  and  Ibllowiny 
every  motion  of  t lie  other  with  a  suspicious  eye. 

The  Russian  Government,  anxious  to  relieve  the  misery  of 
flie  impoverished  nomads,  has  t>-iven  orders  to  settle  them 
alont^  the  river-banks,  and  to  provide  them  with  the  ne- 
fcssary  fishin<4-  implements ;  but  only  extreme  wretchedn«'ss 
can  induce  the  Tun<^-use  to  relinquish  the  fre<'  life  of  the; 
lurest.  His  candess  teni[»er,  his  ready  wit,  and  sprii^htly 
Manner,  distin;jfuish  him  from  the  other  Siberian  tribes— the 
L^liiomy  Samojede,  the  uncouth  Ostjak,  the  reserved  Jakut — 
liiit  he  is  said  to  be  full  of  deceit  and  malice.  His  vanity 
shows  itself  in  the  (juantity  (»f  u-luss  beads  with  which  he 
(jccorates  his  dress  of  reindeer  leather,  from  his  small  Tartar 
ca])  to  the  tips  of  his  shoes.  When  chasinj^'  or  travelling-  ou 
liis  reindeer  throug'h  the  woods,  he  of  course  lays  aside  most 
(if  his  tinery,  and  puts  on  lar^-e  water-tif,dit  l)Oots  or  sari, 
well  >i;Teased  with  fat,  to  kec])  otf  the  wet  of  the  morass.  His 
liuntiny  apparatus  is  extremely  simi>le.  A  small  axe,  a 
krttle,  a  leathern  ba^j;'  containing"  sonu>  dried  tish,  a  doy,  a 
short  g'un,  or  merely  a  bow  and  a  sHul;-,  is  all  he  requires  for 
his  expeditions  into  the  forest.  With  the  assistance  of  his 
loHu;-  and  narrow  snow-shoes,  he  flies  (»ver  the  dazzling-  plain, 
and  protects  his  eyes,  like  the  Jakut,  with  a  net  made  of 
hlack  horsG-hair.  He  never  hesitates  to  attack  the  bear 
sni^^le  handed,  and  generally  masters  him.  The  nomad 
Tiuiguse  naturally  reipiires  a  movable  dwelling.  His  tent 
is  covered  with  leather,  or  large  pieces  of  ])liable  bark,  whiih 
are  easily  r( died  up  and  trans})orted  from  place  to  place.  The 
jurt  of  the  sedentary  Tunguse  n'seml>les  that  of  the  Jakut, 
ami  is  so  small,  that  it  can  be  very  quickly  and  tlioroughly 
warmed  by  a  fire  kindled  on  the  stone  hearth  in  the  centre. 
Ill  his  food  the  Tunu-use  is  bv  no  means  daintv.  Om;  of 
Ills  favourite  dishes  consists  of  the  contents  of  a  reiixh'er's 
stomach   mixed  with  wild  berries,   and  spread  out    in    thin 


i-aKcs 


on  tl 


le  run 


1  oft 


rees 


jo  be  dricl  ill  the  air  or  in  the  sui 


•27« 


TIIK    POT.AU    WOULD. 


Tlioso  wlio  liavo  scltlcd  on  iho  Wilnj  iin<l  in  ilio  noi<>-libour- 
hood  of  Nortscliinsk,  likcnviso  consnnio  lavfj^c  qnantitit's  ot 
brick  tea,  Avliieh  tlioy  boil  with  fat  and  berries  into  a  thick 
porrid<^e,  and  this  nnwholesome  food  adds  no  doubt  to  tbc 
yeUowness  of  their  complexion. 

But  few  of  the  Tungusi  have  been  converted  to  Christi- 
anity, the  majin-ity  beino;  still  addicted  to  Shamanism, 
They  do  not  like  to  bury  tlieir  dead,  but  place  theui,  in  their 
holiday  dresses,  in  lar^^e  chests,  which  tlu^y  han<^'  up  between 
two  trees.  The  luintino-  apparatus  of  the  deceased  is  buried 
beneath  the  chest.  No  ceremonies  are  used  on  the  occasion, 
except  when  a  Schaman  happens  to  be  in  thenei<^hbourho()(l, 
when  a  reindeer  is  sacrificed,  on  Avliose  flesh  the  sorcerer  and 
the  relations  regale  themselves,  while  the  spirits  to  Avhoni 
the  animal  is  supposed  to  be  offered  are  obliged  to  content 
themselves  with  the  smell  of  the  burnt  fat.  As  amontr  tlie 
Samojedes  or  the  Ostjaks,  woman  is  a  marketable  ware  amonn- 
the  Tungusi.  The  father  gives  his  daughter  in  marriage  for 
twenty  or  a  hundred  reindeer,  or  the  bridegroom  is  obliged 
to  earn  her  luind  by  ii  long  period  of  service. 

In  East  Siberia,  the  Tungusi  divide  with  the  Jiikuts  tlir 
task  of  conveying  goods  or  travellers  through  the  forests,  and 
afford  the  stranger  frequent  opportunities  for  admii'ing  tliejr 
agility  and  good  humour.  On  halting  after  a  day's  journey, 
the  reindeer  are  unpacked  in  an  instant,  the  saddles  and  tlio 
goods  ranged  orderly  on  the  ground,  and  the  bridles  collected 
and  hung  on  branches  of  trees.  The  hungr}^  animals  soon 
disappear  in  the  thicket,  where  they  are  left  to  provide  for 
themselves.  The  men,  who  meanwhile  have  been  busv  with 
their  axes,  drag  a  larch  tree  or  two  to  the  place  of  encanqi- 
ment.  The  smaller  branches  are  lopped  off  and  collected  to 
servo  as  beds  or  seats  upon  the  snow,  while  the  resinous 
wood  of  the  hirger  trunks  is  soon  kindled  into  a  lively  tire. 
The  kettle,  filled  with  snow,  is  suspended  from  a  stron<4' 
forked  branch  placed  obliquely  in  the  ground  over  the  fire, 
and  in  a  few  minntes  the  tea  is  read}- — for  the  Tungusi  ]n-o- 
ceed  every  evening  according  to  the  same  method,  and  arc 
consequently  as  expert  as  long  and  invariable  practice  c:iu 
n;ako  them.     Comfortably  seated  on  his  reindeer  saddle,  tlio 


POSITION'    OF   OCIIOTSK. 


2V0 


Inivollor  niiiy  now  iUiDisc  himselt' with  the  ilancos,  which  tho 

'I'lm^'iisi  iU'coinpany  with  iin  agTooiiblo  son|,',  or  if  ho  choose 

to  witness  thoir  a<:;ilitv  in  athletic  exercises,  it  only  costs  him 

;i  word  of  encouragement,  and  a   small  donation  of  brandy. 

Two  of  the  Tnnii'usi  hold  it  ro|K',  and  swino-  it  with  all  their 

iiii^ht,  so  that  it  does  not  touch  the  f,n'ound.     Meanwhile  a 

tliii'd  Tun;;use  skips  over  the  rope,  picks  np  iibow  and  arrow, 

>|i;iiis  the  bow  and  shoots  tlie  arrow,  without  once  t(mchin<4' 

the  roi)e.     Some  particularly  bold  and  expert  Tun^-usi  will 

tl,iii(.'e  over  a  sword  which  a  person,  lyin^  on  his  back  on  the 

ui'i Muid,  is  swin»4'ino-  about  with  the  <^reatest  rapidity.     Should 

our  traveller  be  a  friend  of  chess,  tho  Tunj^usi  are  equally  at 

li;s  service,  as  they  are  passionately  fond  of  this  m)blest  of 

:;iiiiies,  especially  in  the  Kolymsk  district.     Like  all  other 

Silicrian  nomads,  they  visit  at  least  once  a  year  tho  various 

t'lii.s  which  are  held  in  the  small  towns  scattered  here  and 

tlirre  over  their  immense  territory— such  as  Kirensk,  Olek- 

miiisk,    Bar^usin,  Tschita,  ami  Ochotsk,  which,  before  the 

nj)riiiii«j;"  of  the  Anujr  to  trade,  was  the  chief  port  of  East 

Sihcria.     Ocluttsk  is  one  of  the  dreariest  places  imaginable  ; 

at  least   no  traveller  who  ever  visited  it  has  a  word  to  say  in 

its  favour.    Not  a  sinyfle  tree  orows  for  miles  and  miles  around, 

ami  the  wretched  huts  of  which  the  town  is  composed,  lie 

ill    the  midst    of  a  swamp,    which  in  summer  is  a  fruitful 

soiivfc  of  malaria  and  pestilence.     The  river  Ochota,  at  whose 

iiioiilh  Ochutsk  is  situated,  does  not  break  up  befoi'o  the  end 

tif  May,  and  the  ice  masses  continue  to  pass  the  town  till  the 

loth  <\Y  20th  of  June.      Soon  after  begins  the  mc>st  unpleasant 

tiiiii"  of  all  the  year,  or  '  buss  '  of  the  Siberians,  characterised 

h.v  thick  fog  and  a  perpetually  drizzling  rain.     The  weather 

clears  up   in  July,  but  as  early  as  August  the  night  frosts 

enver  the  earth  with  rime.     Salmon,  of  which  no  less  than 

roiutecn  different  species  live  in  the  sea  of  Ochotsk,  are  the 

only  food  which  the  neighbourhood  aifords  ;  all  other  nec(^s- 

>aries  of  life  come  from  Jakutsk,  and  are  of  course  enormoiisly 

ih'ar.     ISTeat  appears  only  from  time  to  time  on  the  tables  of 

'he  wealthier  merchants,  and  bread  is  au  article  of  luxury. 

Xo  wonder  that  the  scurvy  ravages  every  winter  a  place  so 

ill-[»r(»visioned,  and  that  at  the  time  wdien  the  first  caravan  of 


•J  8 1) 


TIIK    rOI.AK    WOKIJ). 


packliorsos  is  expected  to  cross  tlie  Aldaii  Mouiitiiiiis,  Ihr 
jieople  of*  Ocliotsk,  unable  to  resti'iiiii  their  iiii]>utieiice,  i^u 
<»iit  a  Ioii;4'  y\iiy  to  meet  it.  As  the  loriiier  trade  of  the  [diicr 
lias  MOW  no  doul)t  been  trajisferred  to  the  settlements  on 
the  vXmur,  it  may  well  be  snppos<'d  that  Oehotsk  has  lost 
most  of  its  lornier  inhabitants,  who  can  only  bo  conyratulatt-d 
on  their  cluinu'o  of  residence. 


LLC  s'co'xr.  or 


B^ack  Diver 


The  Aleutian  Jalai.ila. 

Cliiiii  an  tiibiuiil''>('--H-li  by  !•  1 1  d-j .  ic  k  WliyiujurJ 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

GEORGE    AVILLIAM    STELLER. 

llwHulli     Enters  tlu' Jviis>i;ui  St  I'vict:     Scicnlitii'  Juiirnoy  to  K;iintM'lirilka      Ac- 
cuMijiaiiics  Ui'liriiig  on  liis  secoiul  Voyiigu  of  l>i.'<eovcry — Laiul.s  mi   llii    l>lariil 
"f    Kiiiuk— Sliamoful    Conduct    of    Jn'lu'infi     Slii^jwrrck    on    IJiliiin^    I-laml 
llilii'iiitr'>*  Di'atli — Return  to  Kanitsi'lia'ka  — lioss  of  Property — I'erscciitionft  of 
the  Silicriaii  Aulhorilies — I'rozrn  l<i  ilratli  at  TjuHien. 

/M^OKGE  WILLIAM  STELLKK,  cue  of  the  iiu.st  dis- 
V'  tiii;j;'uisliotl  luitumlists  <»t'  the  past  eeiiturv,  was  born  at 
NVinsheini,  a  small  town  in  Fraiicoiiia  iii  the  year  17<>'.' 
At'lrr  completing'  liis  studies  at  the  universities  of  "W'itten- 
hero-und  llalle,  I'O  turned  his  thonuhts  to  Russia,  Avhicli,  since 
the  reforms  of  Czar  Peter  the  Croat,  and  the  [»rotection 
which  that  monarch  and  his  successors  atlor<h'd  t<-»  Cerniaii 
Icannn^',  liad  Ix'come  ilie  land  of  promise  for  all  adventurous 
'^I'irits. 

llavinn"  been  a[»pointed  surgeon  in  the  Russian  army,  which 
;it  that  iimo  was  besieging  Danzig,  lie  went  with  a  trans- 
port of  wounded  soldiers,  after  the  surrender  of  that  town,  to 


'28-2 


Till:    POLAR    WoKLh. 


►St.  P«»t<'rsl>iir*y,  wlioro  he  iirrivt'd  ill  I7"tl.  Ilcrt'  liis  talrnts 
were  soon  ii|»i)iH'('iiitoil ;  iiffor  a  low  years  he  was  iianicd  a 
iM('ml)i;r  of  tlit'  hniM'i'ial  Acadoiuy  of  Sciciiccs,  aii<l  snit  l>v 
(lovcriiniciit,  ill  1  7:]8,  to  cxamiiK!  tli«'  iiatunil  i»nj(lucti(»iis  d 
Kaiiitsoliatka. 

The  ability  and  zeal  with  which  he  fullillcil  this  missii>ii 
is  proved  by  the  valuable  collections  which  he  sent  to  tlic 
Academy,  and  by  his  iiuinerous  memoirs,  which  are  still  rca«l 
with  interest  in  the  present  day. 

Til  1711  ho  accompanied  liehrin^'  on  his  secoml  voya^^e  nt' 
discovery,  the  object  of  which  was  to  determine  (he  distance 
of  America  from  Kamtschatlca,  ami  to  ascertain  tlu>  separation 
or  the  junction  of  both  continents  in  a  higher  hit il nth' — a 
qu(>stioii  which  his  first  voyajjfe  had  left  uiuh'cided.  Notliiiiu 
could  be  more  agreeable  to  a  man  like  Steller,  than  llic 
l>rospects  held  out  to  him  by  an  expedition  to  unknown 
rejjfions  ;  and  we  can  easily  iina«j;'int»  the  delight  with  whiih  tin- 
naturalist  embarked  on  board  of  the  '  Saint  Peter,'  com- 
manded by  JJehrino;  in  i)erson.  Accompanied  by  the  '  Saint 
Paul,'  under  Tschiriyow,  they  sailed  on  June  •!•  from  the 
bay  of  Awatscha. 

The  expedition  had  cost  ten  years  of  preparation,  aixl 
brou<j;'ht  misery  and  ruin  upon  many  of  the  wild  Sibciian 
tribes,  for  all  that  was  necessary  for  the  outfit  had  to  Itc 
conveyed  by  compuls(n'y  labour  from  the  interior  of  the  con- 
tinent over  mountains  and  rivers,  throuj^'h  dense  forests  and 
pathless  wilds,  and  it  seemed  from  the  very  bej^'inninj^"  of  tlic 
voyao'o  as  if  the  curses  of  the  unfortunate  natives  clunn'  to  it. 
Much  valuable  time  had  been  lost,  for  the  ships  oui;lit  \<< 
have  sailed  at  least  a  month  earlier,  and  Behrin<jf,  who  from 
illness  constantly  kept  to  his  cabin,  was  by  no  means  a  lit 
commander  for  a  scientific  expedition. 

After  a  few  days  a  dense  fof,'  separated  the  vessels,  wlii'li 
wore  never  to  meet  ag-ain  ;  and  as  the  '  St.  Peter  '  held  licr 
course  too  much  to  the  south,  the  Aleutic  chain  remained 
undiscovered,  and  tlio  first  land  was  oiilv  siii'hted  after  four 
weeks  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Boh  ring's  Bay.  During  the 
whole  of  this  passage  Stoller  had  to  endure  all  tiio  vexations 
which  arrogant  stupidity  coidd  inflict  upon  a  man  anxious 
to  do  his  duty.      Ft  was  in  vain  that  he  repeatedly  pointed  out 


.STKIiLKll    AT    KAIAK. 


wr? 


tin'  sii,Mis  wliicli  iiMliciilcd  \hv  jtrcsciicc  dl'  liiiitl  iml  I'm-  to  tli«' 
iP'itli,  ill  Viiiii  tli;il  lie  ciitrciitcd  tlic  ('oniinaiMlfr  to  stn-r  Init 
oiH'  (liiv  ill  tliiit  direct ioii.  At  liist,  oii  .Iiilv  l'>,  tin-  liiL;li 
iiiKiiiitiiiiiH  of  AiMcricii  wci'f  st'cii  to  risi'  ubovo  tlio  hori/oii, 
;iinl  till'  vessel  ant'hoivd  oii  the  I'.Mli  iMiir  to  tlie  siiiiill  isliiiid 
III'  K'iiiiik. 

(Ml  tlic  I'ollowijiy  dii y  !i  l)oiit  was  sent  out  to  I't'tclj  some 
iVoJi  water,  but  it  was  with  the  utmost  ditliculty  that  Steller 
ci.iild  ohtaiii  peniiissioii  to  join  the  party.  All  assistaiiei! 
w.is  ohstiuately  denied  him,  and  aeeouipaiiied  hy  his  only 
siTMiiit,  a  Cossaclv,  he  lauded  on  the  iiiikiiowii  shoi'e,  ea^^er  to 
iiiiike  the  most  «»t'  the  short  time  allotted  him  tor  his  re- 
>iir(lies.  He  imuiediately  directed  his  steps  towards  the 
interior,  and  had  scarcely  walked  a  mile  when  he  discovered 
the  hollowed  trunk  (^>t'  a  tree,  in  which,  a  lew  h«»urs  before,  the 
sii\a^es  luul  boiled  their  meat  with  red  h()t  stones.  He  also 
t'.iuiiil  several  ]>ots  tilled  with  i'scnlent  herbs,  and  a  wooden 
instrument  for  making-  tire,  like  those  which  are  used  by  the 
inhabitants  of  Kamtschatka.  Hence  he  conjectnred  that  the 
ahuri^ines  f>f  this  part  of  the  Anu'rican  coast  must  bi>  of  tlu» 
s;iine  origin  as  the  Kamtschatkans,  and  that  l>(»th  c(»untries 
must  necessarily  approach  cacli  other  towards  th<.!  north,  as 
their  inhabitants  c(»nld  not  possibly  traverse  such  vast  extents 
iit'iui'un  in  their  rndely-coiistructed  boats. 

Pursuing*  his  way,  Stoller  now  came  to  a  path  which  h'd  into 
a  (h'lise  and  shady  forest.  Before  enterinjj,',  lu'  strictly  for- 
I'lnle  his  Cossack  to  act  without  commands,  in  cas<>  of  a  hostile 
iiicouiitei.  The  Cossack  had  a^'un  with  a  knife  aiid  hatch(  t  ; 
Stiller  himself  only  a  Jakut  poniard,  which  he  had  taken 
with  him  to  dii>'  out  plants  or  stones. 

After  half  an  hour's  walkin;4'  they  came  to  a  place  strewn 
with  L;niss.  This  was  immediately  renioxed,  and  a  nutf  oi- 
I'iatl'unn  discovered,  coiisistin<j;'  of  strips  of  l)ai'k  laid  upon 
pi'hs  Mild  covercMl  with  stones.  This  platform  o])ened  into  a 
'•I'liiir  containinjj;;  a  larij'e  qnantity  of  smoked  lishes,  and  a 
ti'w  Inindles  of  the  inner  bark  of  the  larch  or  fir  tree,  which, 
in  rase  of  necessity,  serves  as  food  throii^'hoiit  all  Liberia. 
Th'M'e  were  also  some  arrows,  dyed  black  and  smoothed,  of  a 
si/e  far  ,sn})in'ior  to  those  used  in  Kamtschatka. 

After  8teller,  in  spite  of  the  danger  of  bein|4'  surprised  by 


•284 


TIIK    I'OLAU    WOHLl). 


tli('  saviifjos,  liiid  iiecnriitely  exnuiiiied  the  eoiitonts  of  tlif 
collar,  lie  sent  his  Cossack  back  a^-ain  to  the  place  mIutc  tin- 
boatmen  were  waterinj^'.  He  y'ave  him  specimens  of  lli,- 
various  articles  Avhich  he  had  fouiul,  ordering-  him  to  takf 
them  to  Captain  Behrin;^,  and  to  reciucst  that  two  or  thi't'c 
men  mi^-ht  be  sent  to  him  for  iurther  assistance.  In  the 
meantime,  thonyh  quite  alone,  he  continued  his  investiga- 
tions of  the  stranj^e  land,  and  havinjjj  reached  the  summit  oi' 
a  hill,  he  saw  smoke  risin^-  from  a  forest  at  some  distance. 
Overjoyed  at  the  si<^'ht,  for  he  now  could  hope  to  meet  witli 
the  natives  and  to  con\;'lete  his  knowledj^e  of  the  island,  he 
instantly  returned  to  tlie  landin;;'-place,  with  all  the  eager- 
ness of  a  man  who  has  somethino- important  to  communicate  ; 
and  as  the  boat  Avas  just  about  to  leave,  told  the  sailors  in 
inform  the  captain  of  his  discovery,  and  to  be<>-  that  the  small 
pinnace,  Avith  a  detachment  of  armed  men,  mi^-lit  be  sent  out 
to  him. 

MeanAvhile,  exhausted  AA'ith  fatig'ue,  ho  sat  doAvn  on  the 
beach,  Avhere  he  described  in  his  pocket-book  some  r>f  the 
more  delicate  plants  he  had  c(^)]lectod,  Avhich  he  feared  mi^lit 
speedily  Avither,  and  reg'aled  himself  Avith  the  oxcelleut 
Avater. 

After  Avaiting'  for  about  an  hour,  he  at  leng'tli  received  an 
answer  from  Bohring*,  tellin<4-  him  to  return  immediately  en 
board,  unless  ho  chose  to  be  left  behind;  and  Ave  can  easily 
imao-ine  the  indi^-nation  of  the  disaj)[»ointed  naturalist  at 
this  shameful  command. 

On  the  morniny  of  July  21,  Behrhig',  contrary  to  his 
custom,  appeared  on  dock,  ordered  the  anchors  to  be  Avei^lie<l, 
and  o-ave  directions  to  sail  back  a<>ain  on  the  same  course. 
The  continent  he  liaddiscoA'oredAvas  not  even  honoured  Avitli 
a  sint^le  visit,  so  that  Stellor  c(»uld  not  help  tolliuLT  the 
Russians  they  had  merely  come  thus  far  for  the  purpose  et 
carryin<;-  American  Avater  to  Asia. 

Any  conscientious  commander  Avould  have  continued  to  sail 
ah  my  the  unknoAvn  shore,  or,  consideriii«^-  that  the  season  was 
already  far  advanced,  woidd  have  determined  to  Avinter  tlieiv. 
and  to  pursue  his  discoveries  next  sprin;4' ;  l)V)t,  unfortunately 
for  J^'hi-in;j:  and  his  compani(»ns,  the  course  he  adopted  jhhm'^I 
as  disastrous  as  it  was  dishonourable. 


DAD    (■oNDlCT   i)V    DKIIIUNC 


283 


Tliivc  iiionlhs  luiiv?  the  ship  was  tossed  about  by  contrary 
uiiids  and  storms;  the  islands  of  the  Ak'utic  ehaiii,  though 
tivijucntly  seen  throng-h  the  mists,  were  bnt  seKh»m  visiti'd  ; 
the  scurvy  broke  out  amon<^'st  the  dispirited,  ill-ted  cri'w, 
tlii'ir  misery  increased  from  day  to  day,  and  their  joy  may  be 
iiii;iL;'iiied  when  at  leiiy'th,  on  Xovember  T),  ii  land  was  seen 
wliieli  they  lirndy  believed  to  be  Kamtsehatlca — thon^'-h  in 
ivaiity  it  was  merely  the  desert  Behriuo-'s  Island,  situated  a 
liuiulred  miles  from  that  peninsula.  Even  tlios<'  Avho  were 
nearly  half-dead  crept  upon  deck  to  en  joy  the  welcome  sig'ht; 
t'Vi'iy  one  thanked  Clod,  and  the  ig-nta'ant  oflicer,  convinced 
lli;it  they  were  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay  of  Awatscha,  even 
iKiined  the  several  mountains,  but  their  mistake  soon  became 
apjiarent  when,  on  rou]uliu<>;  a  small  promontory,  some 
well-known  islets  were  missed.  As  they  had  no  doubt, 
liowcver,  that  the  land  was  really  Kamtschatka,  and  the 
liad  weather  and  the  small  number  of  bunds  fit  to  do  duly 
ix'iiderin<4'  it  difticult  to  reach  the  gulf  of  Awatscha,  it  Avas 
i'esi)lveil  to  rrni  into  the  bay  that  lay  bof<n'e  them,  and  to 
send  notice  from  thence  to  Nishne  Kamtschatsk  of  their  safe 
arrival. 

Steller  was  among  the  first  to  land,  and  probably  the  ver}' 
tirst  of  the  party  who  discovered  the  mistakt;  of  the  iwrrljciit 
navigators  to  wIkhu  the  expedition  h.id  been  entrusted. 
Sea-otters  came  swimming  to  him  from  the  land,  and  he  well 
blew  that  tht^se  much  persecuted  animals  had  long  sine*' 
'li>a[>[>eared  from  the  coast  of  Kamtschatka.  The  number  of 
Antic  foxes,  too,  who  showed  no  fear  at  his  approacli,  and  the 
sea-cows  gambolling  in  the  water,  Avere  sure  siji'us  that  the 
t'liut  lit' man  had  not  often  trodden  this  shore. 

Stcller  was  also  the  tirst  to  set  tin;  good  exani[)le  of  making 
llie  I.est  of  a  bad  situation,  instead  of  ustdesslv  l)ewailing  liis 
misfortunes.  He  began  to  erect  a  hut  for  the  fidlowinji* 
winter,  and  formed  an  association  with  several  of  the  crew, 
wliu.  whatever  might  await  them,  piromised  to  stand  by  eacdi 

ether. 

During  the  i\dlowing  days  the  sick  were  gradually  conveyed 
en  shore.  Some  of  them  died  on  board  as  soon  as  they  were 
lirmiMht  into  the  open  aii',  others  in  the  boat,  others  as  sor»n 
■i>  they  were  lauded.     '  On  all  sides,'   says   Steller,   in    his 


28fi 


TTTR    POLATl    WOULD. 


iiitorostin^  account  of  this  Hl-fiitcMl  voyii^v,''^'  'nothing'  wns 
to  bo  seen  but  misery.  Before  the  dead  could  be  buried, 
they  were  mangled  by  the  foxes,  who  even  ventured  tn 
approach  the  helpless  invalids  who  were  lyin^  without  covti' 
on  the  beach.  Some  of  th(>so  wretched  sufferers  bitt('rl\ 
complained  of  the  cold,  others  of  hunger  and  thii'st— lur 
many  had  their  gums  so  swollen  and  ulcerated  with  llic 
scurvy  as  to  be  unable  to  eat.' 

'On  Novendier  1.'},'  continues  the  naturalist,  '1  went  out 
hunting  for  the  first  time  with  Messieurs  Plenisner  and  BelL;v ; 
wo  killed  four  sea-otters,  and  did  not  return  before  niglit. 
We  ate  their  flesh  thankfully,  and  prayed  to  CJod  that  lie 
might  continue  to  provide  us  with  this  excellent  food.  The 
costly  skins,  on  the  other  hand,  were  of  no  value  in  our  eyes  -. 
the  only  objects  which  we  now  esteemed  were  knives,  needles, 
thread,  ropes,  &c.,  on  which  before  we  had  not  bestowed  a 
thought.  We  all  saw  that  rank,  science,  and  other  social 
distinctions  were  now  of  no  avail,  and  could  not  in  any  way 
contribute  to  our  preservation:  we  therefore  resolved,  befnif 
we  were  forced  to  do  so  by  necessity,  to  set  to  work  at  once. 
We  introduced  among  us  five  a  community  of  goods,  and 
regulated  our  housekeeping  in  sueh  a  manner,  as  not  to  he 
in  want  before  the  winter  Avas  over.  Our  three  Cossacks 
were  obliged  to  obey  our  orders,  when  we  had  decided  upon 
something  in  common  ;  but  we  began  to  treat  them  with 
greater  politeness,  calling  them  by  their  names  and  surnaiuos. 
and  we  soon  found  that  Peter  Maximo witsch  served  us  with 
more  alacrity  than  formerly  Petrucha  (a  diminutive  ot 
Peter). 

'  Nov.  li.  The  whole  ship's  company  was  formed  into  tliive 
parties.  The  one  had  to  convey  the  sick  and  provisions  IVom 
the  ship  ;  the  second  brought  w^ood  ;  the  third,  consisting; 
of  a  lame  sailor  and  myself,  remained  at  home — the  foniiei' 
busy  making  a  sledge,  wdiile  I  acted  as  cook.  As  our  party 
was  the  first  to  organise  a  household,  I  also  performed  tlie 
duty  of  bringing  warm  soup  to  some  of  our  sick,  imtil  liny 
had  so  far  recovered  as  to  be  able  to  lu?lp  themselves. 

'The  barracks  being  this  day  ready  to  receive  the  sick, 


*  Bosehreibiiiisi  'lir  SiciviM  von  li.iuiit.st.'liatkii  imoli  Aiuorika.     Frankl'iirl, 


DKATll    or    Iir,IIUIX(i. 


•JS7 


iiiiiiiy  of  tlicm  wore  trausporit'd  iiiidor  roof;  but  lor  want  of 
rudiii,  tlit'v  lay  fwrysvlion'  on  tlu'  !4T()Hii(1,  covoivd  with  ra<j,s 
;iii(l  elotlu'S.  No  one  eoiiUl  assist  the  <jthor,  aiul  nothing' 
wiis  hoard  but  laniontations  and  curses — the  whole  a^tordin^• 
so  wretched  a  siyht,  as  to  nialce  even  th»>  stoutest  heart  lose 


idurag'e. 


'  On  November  15  all  the  sick  Avere  at  length  landed.  We 
Iduk  one  of  them,  named  Boris  Siind,  into  our  hut,  and  by 
(iod's  help  he  recovered  within  three  months. 

'  The  follow'in*^-  d:iys  added  to  our  misery,  as  the  messen^vrs 
we  had  sent  out  brought  us  the  intelliy-ence  that  we  were 
on  a  desert  island,  without  any  coinnmnication  Avith  Kamts- 
cluiika.  We  were  also  in  constant  fear  that  the  stormy 
weather  mij^-ht  drive  our  ship  out  to  sea,  and  along  with  it 
all  our  provisions,  and  every  hope  of  ever  returning  to  our 
lioiues.  Sometimes  it  w^as  impossible  to  get  to  the  vessel  for 
several  days  together,  so  boisterous  was  the  surge ;  and  aboiit 
tell  or  twelve  men,  who  had  hitherto  been  abl<,'  to  work,  now 
also  fell  ill.  Want,  nakedness,  frost,  rain,  illness,  imjtatienee, 
and  despair,  were  our  daily  companions.' 

Fortunately  the  stormy  sea  drove  the  ship  npon  the  strand, 
better  than  it  could  probably  have  been  done  by  liinnan 
elferts. 

Successively  man}-  of  the  scorbutic  i)atients  died,  and  t>n 
December  8,  the  unfortunate  commander  of  the  expedition 
paid  his  debt  to  nature. 

Titus  Behring,  by  birth  a  Dane,  had  served  thirty-six  years 
with  distinction  in  the  Russian  navy,  l»ut  age  and  infiinnities 
had  completely  damped  his  energies,  and  his  death  is  a 
warning  to  all  who  enter  ujxtn  un<h'rtakings  above  their 
strength. 

la  the  meantime  the  whole  ship's  cf)mpany  had  established 
itself  for  the  winter  in  tive  subterranean  dwellings ;  the 
general  health  was  visibly  improving,  merely  by  means  of  the 
excellent  water,  and  by  the  fresh  meat  furnished  by  sea- 
otters,  seals,  and  manatees;  and  the  only  care  now  was  to 
uaiii  sufficient  strength  to  be  able  to  undertaki^  the  work  of 
deliverance  in  spring. 

In    April    the    shipwrecked    nuiriners    began    to    build    a 
Hiiallcr  shii>  out   of  the  tindiers  of  the  '  St.  Peter,'  and  such 


288 


Tllli:    rOLAR    WOKLP. 


was  the  iilacrity  with  wliieh  till  luiiids  set  to  work,  that  on 
Au^'ust  ]:»  tlu'j  were  iible  to  set  out. 

'  When  we  were  all  einbarketl,'  says  Steller,  '  Ave  first  per- 
ceived how  much  we  shoiikl  he  inconvenienced  for  want  of 
room  ;  the  water-casks,  jn'ovisions,  andba^^'ya^^o  tiiking- up  so 
much  space,  that  our  forty-two  men  (the  three  ship's  olHccrs 
and  myself  were  somewhat  better  off  in  the  cabin)  could 
hardly  creep  between  them  and  the  deck.  A  <»'reat  quantity 
of  the  beddini^  and  clothing  had  to  be  thrown  overboard. 
Meanwhile  we  saw  the  foxes  sporting  about  our  deserted 
huts,  and  greedily  devouring  remnants  <-»f  fat  and  meat. 

'  On  the  1  1th,  in  the  morning,  we  Aveighed  anchor,  and 
steered  out  of  the  bay.  The  weather  being  beautiful,  and 
the  wind  favourable,  Ave  Avere  all  in  good  spirits,  and  as  av(,' 
sailed  along  the  island,  pointed  out  to  each  other  the  Avell- 
knoAvn  mountains  and  valleys  Avhich  AA'e  had  frequently  visited 
in  quest  of  game,  or  for  the  purpose  of  reconnoitring.  To- 
AVJirds  evening  Ave  Avere  opposite  the  furthest  point  of  tbt; 
island,  and  on  the  loth,  the  Avind  continuing  favourable,  we 
steered  direct  towards  the  bay  of  AAvatscha.  About  mid- 
night, however,  Ave  perceived,  to  our  great  dismay,  that  the 
vessel  began  to  fill  Avith  Avater  from  an  unknown  leak,  vvhicli, 
in  consequence  of  the  croAA'^ded  and  overloaded  state  of  tlio 
vessel,  it  Avas  extremely  difficult  to  find  out.  The  pumps 
Avere  soon  choked  by  the  shavings  left  in  the  hold,  and  the 
danger  rapidly  increased,  as  the  Avind  Avas  strong  and  the 
Avssel  badly  built.  The  sails  Avero  immediately  taken  in  : 
some  of  the  men  removed  the  baggage  to  look  for  the  leak, 
others  kei)t  continually  pouring  out  the  Avater  Avith  kettles, 
Avhile  others  again  cast  all  superfluous  articles  overboard. 
At  length,  after  the  ligh  .'ning  of  the  ship,  the  carpenter 
succeeded  in  stopping  the  lealc,  and  thus  Ave  Avere  once  more 
saA'ed  from  imminent  danger.  .  .  .  On  the  17th  Ave  sighted 
Kanitschatka,  but  as  the  Avind  Avas  contrary,  Ave  did  not 
enter  the  harbour  before  the  CA^ening  of  the  27th. 

'  In  spite  of  the  joy  we  all  felt  at  our  deliverance,  yet  the 
neAvs  we  heard  on  our  arrival  awakened  in  us  a  host  of  con- 
flicting emotions.  We  had  been  given  up  for  lost,  and  all 
our  property  had  passed  into  other  hands,  and  been  mostly 
carried  away  beyond  hope  of  recovory.     Hence  joy  and  sorrow 


■i  ii 


1i,i.-tki:atmi;.\t  .\m>  i>i;.\tii   or  sii;i,i,i;i;. 


•2t,\) 


LUat  oil 

rst  por- 
*vaiit  <tt' 

[O-  up  SO 

oiiit'i'is 

[)  could 
[uaiitily 
n'boiird. 
lesortfd 
at. 

liov,  aiitl 
ifnl,  J! nil 
(1  as  avl' 
he  "svt'll- 
,y  visited 
lo'.      Tu- 
t  of  tlu; 
i-able,  \ve 
mt    inid- 
tliat  the 
c,  wliieli, 
e  of  tlie 
e  pumps 
and  ilu' 
tnid  till' 
ikeu  ill : 
he  leak, 
Icettl.'s, 
erhoai'il. 
arpeuier 

lee  uiori' 
sio-htcd 
did    i»t»t 

I,  yet  the 

of  eoii- 

y  and  all 

1  mostly 

IdsorroNV 


iiltcrnated  "wilhin  a  irw  iiK.inienls  in  our  nun<ls,  th(»uti'li  we 
\\i!'i'  all  so  arc!istoiii"d  to  privation  and  luisfry.  as  hardly  to 
li  I'l  llic  extent  ofoiir  losses." 

Ill  the  year  1  71'  I-  Sttdler  was  ordcri'd  to  return  io  St.  Pelers- 
liiu'u':  hilt  his  eandour  had  inadi'  liim  [)owerful  enemies. 
ilaviii;^-    reaelied    NoVL;'oro(l,    and    rejoiciii'_;-    in    the    idea    of 


eiiee  more  un.xinu'  wi 


th  tl 


le  civiJiseil   wor 


l.L  ] 


le  was  suddeiilv 


ordfved  to  a}ij)ear  before  the  imperial  court  of  justice  at 
h'lciiislc,  on  the  charn'c  <d*  havinn'  treaeht'rously  sold  powder 
til  tilt'  enemies  of  llussia.  Thus  ohlij^-ed  t(.»  return  once  more 
into  the  depths  of  Siberia,  he  was  at  k'nyth  diMuissed  bv  his 
jiidLics,  after  waitiu;^'  a,  "wliole  year  for  their  verdict. 

(Mice  more  on  his  way  to  St.  IVtershurL!,',  he  liad  already 
ivached  ]Moscow.  Avlien  lit"  was  a^aiii  summoned  to  ap[iear 
uiijioi 


it  (h'lav  before  the    court   of  Irkutsk.     A  journev  to 


>!lieria  is,  iui(h,'r  ail  circumsrances,  an  arduous  uiuhn'takino' 


n  ' 


wli 


;it.  then,  must  have  l)eeu  Steller's  teelin^-s  wlu'U,  instead 
iif  ciijoyiiiL;"  the  repose  he  had  so  well  merited,  he  saw  himself 
"lili^ed  to  retrace  his  steps  for  the  fourth  time,  for  the  ]»ur- 
]>"»'  of  vindicating'  his  conduct  before  a  rascally  tribunals 
till  ii  vei-y  cold  day,  his  Cossack  ^^anirds  stopped  to  refresh 
i!ii'iiisejves  with  somebi-aiidv  at  an  inn  bv  the  road-side,  and 


■r.  who  remained  in  the  sled^'e  waitin*''  for  their  reti 


u*n. 


a^lc( 


■}),  and  was  frozen  to  death. 


lllte 

tllll,- 


lie  lies  buried  near  the  town  of  Tjumen.  and  no  monument 
I'vises  the  naturalist,  whom  the  love  of  knowled<''e  mav  Ifad 
the  Siberian  wild.->,  that  his  unfortunate  predecessor  Avas 
I'asely  i'(Hjuited  sifter  years  of  exertion   in   the  interests 


f  >i-ieiice 


"i  I  I'  SLvciy  fox. 


I'ctropaulowsk. 

(From  nn  ori^in:i',  sketcli  hy  Frrdt;rick  ■Wli-ympei  ) 


II 
I 

I  : 
If  >i 


CHAPTER  XXI  rr. 

KAMTSCHATKA. 

Climato  —  Fin-tility—  Luxuriant  Vop;ctiition — Fisli  —  Sr.a  Birds  —  Kiimtsclinikan 
nirdciiti'licrs— Tho    15ny  of  Awatsclia— rctropaulowsk — Tlio   Kanitsrhalkaiis 
TluMr physical  and  mural  Qualitii-s — Tlie  I'Vitillaria  Sarranu — The  ^Iiuliann  r— 
]>('ars — J)o^s. 

rnHE  poninsulii  of  Ktiintschatka  tlioug-h  ninnberiii<^' no  indii' 


T 


than  G,C)00  or  7,000  inhabitants,  on  a  surface  oquiillini 
Great  Britain  in  extent,  has  so  many  natural  resources  tluit 
it  could  easily  maintain  a  far  greater  number.  The  climate  is 
much  more  temperate  and  unifonn  than  that  of  the  intcrii'i' 
of  Siberia,  being  neither  so  excessively  cold  in  Avinter,  nor  .*'^ 
intensely  hot  in  summer;  and  though  the  late  and  early  niu'l'^ 
frosts,  with  the  frequent  fogs  and  rains,  prevent  the  cultiviitinii 
of  corn,  the  humid  air  produces  a  very  hixuriant  herbaeotnb 
vegetation.  Not  only  along  the  banks  of  the  rivers  and  hikes. 
but  in  the  forest  glades,  the  grass  grows  to  a  height  of  luoiv 
than  twelve  feet,  and  numy  of  the  Compositas  and  Umbclli- 
ferfc  attain  a  si/e  so  colossal,  that  the  Heracl in ni  dulce  and  tin' 
ScHeeio  i-n)rnitl>!t'<>lliit<  not  seldom  overtop  tlie  rider  on  hoi'sc- 


XAXrUAI.    WHAI/ni    OF    KAMTSCMATKA. 


'J91 


K:iliitM'liiiik;ii! 


liiiclc.  Tlio  pnstnro  j^touikIs  aiv  so  rxcclltMit,  tliut  tlio  pTass 
( ;iii  •^•('lu 'rally  bi*  cut  thrice  during-  llie  short  siiinuior,  ami 
(Ims  a  ooiiii)arativ(.'ly  small  extent  of  land  atlonls  the  winter 
supply  for  all  the  eattle  of  a  hamlet. 

Thon;^'h  the  eold  winds  |»revent  the  j:^rowth  of  trees 
alon;^  the  coast,  the  more  inland  monntain  slopes  and  val- 
leys are  clothed  with  woods  richly  stocked  wiih  sables  and 
sijnirrels. 

No  country  in  the  world  has  a  greater  abundance  of  excel- 
lent fisheries.  In  sprin;^-  the  salmon  ascend  the  rivers  insneh 
;ima/,inL>-  nundjers,  that  on  i>luno-ing  a  dart  into  the  stream 
cue  is  almost  sure  to  strike  a  tish;  and  Steller  atlirms  that 
till'  bears  and  do^s  of  Kamtschatka  cateh  on  tin?  banks 
more  tish  with  their  paws  and  mouths,  than  man  in  other 
cimntries  with  all  his  cunninL>'  devices  of  net  or  an^'le.  As 
tlic  various  birds  of  passa^v  do  not  all  wander  at  the  same 
lime  to  the  north,  so  also  the  various  kinds  (»f  tishes  mi;4'rate, 
some  sooner,  others  later,  and  conse(piently  profnsion  rei^-ns 
(lui-inf>'  the  Avhole  of  the  summer.  Ermann  was  astonished 
ill  tliis  incalculable  abundance  of  the  Kamtsehatkan  rivers,  fur 
ill  uiie  of  them,  when  the  Avater  was  only  six  inches  deep,  he 
s;i\v  nudtitudes  (»f  Chaekos  (Shniitrtitliiilits)  aslonu-ns  his  arm 
I'Mi-tly  stranded  on  the  banks,  partly  still  endeavouring  to 
nsccnd  the  shallow  stream.  As  the  waters  contain  such  an 
incredible  multitude  of  fishes,  wo  cannot  wonder  that  the 
incky  coasts  of  the  peninsula  sw^arm  with  sea-fowl,  whose 
breeding  and  roosting  places  are  as  densely  peopled  as  any 
otlicrs  in  the  world.  At  the  entrance  of  the  A\yatscha  Bay 
lies  a  remarkable  labyrinth  of  rocks,  separated  from  each 
other  by  narrow  channels  of  water,  like  the  intricate  streets 
et'  an  old-fashioned  city.  The  flood  has  everywhere  scooped 
out  pictiu-esque  cavities  and  passages  in  these  stupendous 
iiKisses  of  stone,  and  the  slightest  wind  causes  the  waves 
to  beat  with  terrific  violence  against  their  feet.  Every 
le'lge,  platform,  and  projection,  every  niche,  hollow,  and 
crevice,  is  peopled  with  sea  birds  of  straiige  and  various 
<'ernis.  In  the  capture  of  these  birds  the  Kamtschatkans 
"lisjilay  an  intrepidity  equal  to  that  of  the  islanders  of  St. 
KiKla  or  Feroe,  and  trust  solely  to  their  astonishhig  agility 

V   2 


•J!t-* 


Tin;    l'OI,.\l{    WOULD. 


ill  <'liiiil»iii<4.  Biirctnoted,  without  rop^'s  <»r  any  otltcr  nssisl- 
aiicc,  tlicv  vi'iituivdown  i\\o  stcfpcst  declivities,  wliiidi  mit  i'vc- 
f|U('iitly  only  acct'ssildc  IVoiii  tin*  to|),  as  the  t'oaiiiinj^' ln'cakci^ 
cut  ott'  all  access  from  lielow.  Tlie  left  arm  clasjis  a  haskd 
which  tliey  liil  with  eii'^-s  as  they  advance,  while  the  riulit 
hand  i,n'asps  a  short  stick  with  an  iron  hook  to  dra<^'  the  hiri's 
from  the  cn'vices  of  th<'  rock,  AVlien  a  hird  is  can;^'ht,  a  dex- 
terous <>ri])  wrin;4's  iis  n<'ck.  and  it  is  then  attacdied  totln' 
j^nr<lle  of  the  lowler.  In  this  manner  an  expert  clindier  will 
kill  in  on<'  dav  from  seventv  to  eijj'hty  hirds,  and  '••ather  aho\c 


('"■o'S. 


a  hundred 

Thus  the  ]»<ip\dation  of  Kanitschatka  is  (niite  out  of  pro- 
portion to  the  riches  of  its  ]«astnres  and  waters.  Its  scanty 
inhahitants  are  moreover  concentrated  on  a  few  s[»ots  ahmu' 
the  chief  rivers  and  hays,  so  that  alnn»st  the  whole  peninsula 
is  nothing'-  hut  an  uninhabited  wihU'rness. 

Before  the  coinpiest  of  the  country  by  the  Russians  it  h;cl 
at  hnist  twentv  times  its  present  ])oi)ulation,  b\it  the  criieliv 


to 


of  the  Cossacks  and  the  ravai^-es  of  the  smaIl-[>ox  caused  i', 
nudt  away  ahuost  as  ra.pi<lly  as  that  of  C'uha  or  Haiti  aftei- 
the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards.  At  that  tinw  the  saltle  ami 
the   sea-otter    were    considered    of  far    ;_;'reater   importain-e 


th; 


in  m 


im  ;   and  uid'ortunatelv  Russia   has  too  manv  desert- 


to  people,  betbrL'  she  can  tliink  of  repairiujj;  past  errors  and 
sparing-  inhabitants  for  this  remotest  corner  of  her  vast 
Asiatic  empire. 

As  the  2)eninsula  is  too  distant  from  the  liiti'hways  of  the 
world  to  attract  the  tide  of  emio-ration,  it  is  also  seldinii 
visited  ]»y  travellers.  The  few  strang-i'rs,  h<»wever,  wlie 
have  sailed  alonu'  the  coasts,  or  nuido  excursions  into  tin' 
interior  of  the  country,  sjieak  with  enthusiasm  of  the  bohhicss 
of  its  rocky  pr<>mont()ries,  the  mau'nitieence  of  its  bays  and 
mountains,  and  only  reyret  that  during-  the  o-n'ater  pai't  of 
the  year  an  Arctic  winter  veils  the  beauties  of  the  lands(a[>" 
under  mists  and  snow. 

Throughout  its  "wholo  length  Kanitschatka  is  traversed  l»v 
an  Alpine  chain  rising  in  some  of  its  jjoaks  to  a  height  of 
1  !■,(»( Ml  i)v  l<l,oOO  feet,  and  numbering  no  less  than  28  active 
volcanoes  along  with  many  others  whose  fires  are  extimt. 
A   land  thus  undermined  with    subterranean   fires   must  \>'' 


Ml\i;i{.\l-    SlM!IN*(iS    (»!•'    KAMTSCII ATKA. 


•-»!»{ 


•  ;)ssis1- 
!ivr  IVc- 
•IH'ilkrls 
I  l)iisk<'1 

lie  hin's 
,  a  <1"'X- 
l  to  tll<' 
[])VY  will 
cv  alx'Vi' 

(»1"  iti'ii- 
s  sen  111} 

•is  iil'iiiu' 
eninsiihi 

IS  it  liinl 
i>  enit'lty 
is('<l  i'.  1<> 
liti  ;ii'l<'r 
able  a  111! 
portaii'-i' 
(lesri'ls 
ors  cind 
u'V    vast 

■s  of  111'' 

ScM'MU 

■r.    wlio 
into  till' 

:)!iys  auil 
pavt  lit 
ni(lsca[ii> 

rsoil  l>y 

cio'lil  lit 

IS  active 

cxtiiii't- 

must  1"' 


iiissi'sst'd  of  iiianv    iiiiin'1'iil   riclics,  Imt    as  yd    im   one    lias 
r  tliiir.Li'lif  of  sct'kiim'  I'nr  llinii  or  inittinu"  tlicm  to  nsf. 
<  hviii!4'  b»  till'  'j;v(';i\  huiiiitlity  (»t'  the  el i mate  and  the  (|uan- 


iVi 


titii 
iiliiMnu 


of   rain    attraetcd     1)V    tin-    mountains,    Kamtseliatlva 


m 


s]>i'inLi'>'. 


In    the   hiwhinds   tIu'v    n'ush    inrtli    in 


>iirh  nund)ers  as  to  rt'udcr  it  \cry  dittieult  to  travid  any  dis- 
t, nee  on  toot  or  horscbaelc.  even  in  winter,  as  tiii>y  |ti'event 
llif  rivers  from   treeziny-.      X(t  doul)t  many  a  mineral   s[irinL;- 

I'old,  tepid,  or  warm — that  would  make  the  foi'tune  of  a 
(iirman  spa.  here  Hows  uiiiiotieed  into  tiir  sea. 

ivamtseliatka  has  many  exeelU'nt  harbours,  and  the  ma;4'- 
iiiiii-ent  Bay  of  Awatseha  would  alone  1)0  Jible  to  atl'ord  room 
ti.  all  the  navies  of  the  world,  lis  steep  r(»(dcy  shores  are 
iiliuiist   everywhere  (dothed    with  a   s[)ecies   of  beeidi  {IlifnJu 

i: 


.III  II  It  I 


intermin<j;"led  with  luxuriant  ^^rasses  and  herbs,  and 
the  hii^'her  s1o[m's  ai'e  jL^'enerally  eovei-ed  with  a  dense  uuder- 
wnod  of  everi4'reens  and  shrubs  of  deeiduous  foliage,  whoso 
rliinu'es  <tf  colour  in  autumn  tin^'i^  the  landsea])e  "with  yellow, 
iv'l.  and  brown  tints.  But  the  cdiiet'  beauty  of  the  Hay  of 
Awatseha  is  tlw  pros]>ect  of  the  distant  numntains.  forming'  a 


' 'iidid   pinoi'inna    of  fantastii* 


1 


I'a 


an( 


I    V(d 


eanie   cone 


nil 


0 


I'lMLi'  which  the  Streloshnaja  Sojdca  towers  jire-eminent  t 
the  liei;4'ht  of  II. <><)(►  feet.      Close  to  this  y'iant.luit  somewhat 
ii'er   to  the   co;ist,  ris<'s   the  active  volcano  of  Awatseha, 


111' 


Willi 


h  fre(|Uentlv  covers  the  Avhole  countrv  with  ashe 


The  vast  Bav  of  Awats(dia    forn 


IS  several   minor  cret 


•]<> 


;iiiii>iii4-  others  the  haven  of  Saint  Peter  and  Paul,  one  of  the 
tiiiivt  natural  harl)(»urs  in  the  Avorld.  where  the  Kussians 
liiive  established  the  seat  of  their  e-overnnient  in  the  small 
tnun  of  Petropaulowsk,  which  hardly  nund)ers  ')00  inhabit- 
iiiils,  but  has  ac(|uired  sotne  celei>rity  frcun  the  unsuccessful 
aitai-kof  the  Enu'lisli  and  Fi-euch  forces  in   !>;■'>!. 

iJesides  some    Jakut  iiufiiie-rants,  the    (diief  sto(dc  of  the 


le  descent 


lant; 


iity  [)o[»ulation   (»f  the  country  consists  of  tl 
llie   ])rimitive  Kamtscliatkans,  who,  in   si»ite  of  frequent 

4ill 
.11 


iiit"rmarriati'es  wi 


th  tl 


leu"  conquerors 


the  ( 


ossac 


ks,  1 


hev  are  ot  a  sma 


lave 
f 


I'liiiied  many  of  their  ancient  manners. 
^(atiire,  but  broad  shouldered,  their  cheidc  bones  are  promi- 
iiiiit,  their  jaws  uncommonly  broad  and  projecting-,  their 
iiiises  small,  their  Hjis  very  full,  their  hnir  blnek.     The  colour 


294 


TIIH    1'0I>A1{    WOULD. 


I  k 


of  the  int'ii  is  diirk  brown,  or  Hoinotimos  yellow;  tlu*  woinoii 
luive  fairer  ((tiiiplexions,  which  they  endeuvour  1<»  jiresei-vc 
by  means  (tf  bears'  ^nits,  stuck  upon  their  faces  in  sprin;^-  with 
fish  lime,  so  as  not  to  l)e  burnt  by  the  sun.  They  also  paint 
I  heir  cheeks  with  a.  sea-weed,  which,  when  rubbed  \i[»on 
tlieni  will)  fat,  ^ives  them  a  beautiful  red  colour. 

Tlie  K'anitschatkans  area  remarkably  healthy  race.  Many 
of  them  attain  an  a<^'e  of  seventy  or  ei<4'hty  years,  and  are 
able  to  walk  and  to  work  until  their  death.  Their  hair 
seldom  turns  j^avy  before  their  sixtieth  year,  and  eveu  the 
oldest  men  have  a  lirm  and  elastic  ste[>.  The  weij^ht  of  tlu'ir 
body  is  o-ivater  than  that  of  the  Jakuts,  thou^'h  the  latter 
live  on  milk  and  flesh,  while  iish  is  the  almost  exclusive 
food  of  the  Kamtschatkans.  The  round  tubercles  of  the 
Frltillaria  *SVoT«?wt,  a  species  of  lily  Avith  a  dark  purple  tlower, 
likewise  play  an  important  part  in  their  diet,  and  serve  them 
instead  of  bread  and  meal.  '  If  the  fruits  of  the  bread-fruit 
tree,'  says  Kittlitz — who  has  seen  both  plants  in  the  places 
of  their  j^rowth — '  are  pre-eminent  aniono-  all  others,  as  afford- 
in«j;'  man  a  perfect  substitute  for  bread,  the  roots  of  the  Sarrami, 
which  are  veiy  similar  in  taste,  rank  perhaps  immediately 
after  them.  The  collecting*  of  these  tubers  in  the  meadows 
is  an  important  summer  occupation  of  the  women,  and  one 
which  is  rather  troublesome,  as  the  plant  never  grows  gre- 
gariously, so  that  each  root  has  to  be  sought  and  dug  out 
se[)arate]y  with  a  knife.  Fortunately  the  wonderful  activity 
of  the  8iberia,n  field-vole  facilitates  the  labour  of  gathering 
tlie  tubers.  These  remarkable  animals  burrow  ext(.'nsi\e 
winter  nests,  with  five  <,)r  six  storehouses,  which  they  lill 
with  various  roots,  but  chiefly  with  those  of  the  Sarraiia. 
To  find  these  subterranean  treasures,  the  Kamtschatkans  use 
sticks  with  iron  points,  which  they  strike  into  the  earth. 
The  contents  of  three  of  these  nests  are  as  much  as  a  luaa 
can  carr}^  on  his  back. 

A  species  of  fungus,  called  Muchamor,  affords  a  favourite 
stinndant.  It  is  dried  and  eaten  raw.  Besides  its  exliila- 
ratiug  effects,  it  is  said  to  produce,  like  the  Peruvian  Coca,  a 
remarkable  increase  of  strength,  which  lasts  for  a  consider- 
able time. 

Fishing  and  hunting  supply  all  the  wants  of  the  Kauits- 


KAMTSCIIATKAX    iXKiS. 


"Ids 


WOlllCll 

ii<j,-Avilli 
jO  paint 

J      U[>()ll 

Many 
iiml  air 
.'ir   liair 

'VOll    till' 

of  tlit'ir 
10  hitler 
xolusivc 
•i  of  the 
0  llower, 
L've  tliciii 
.'jid- fruit 
e  plai'os 
LS  atiui'd- 
Sarrana, 
leJiatclv 
ueadows 

iiid  one 

)AVS    ti'l'l'- 
tluo-  (lUl 

activity 
itlicriiii;' 
xtciisivi' 
tlioy  till 
SaiTaiKi. 
cans  use 
e  eavtli. 
a  man 

•ivonvitc 
oxliila- 
1  Cdca.a 
■ousidt'i'- 

Kanits- 


( li;illvaus,  f(»r  tlii'y  have  not  yot  loariit  to  prolit  in  any  dt';_;Tt'(' 
worth  mentioning-  by  the  hixurianco  of  their  nieaihiw-lands. 
'I'licy  pay  their  taxes  and  purchase  their  foreij^n  hixuries — 
meal  and  tea,  tobacco  and  brandy — Avith  furs.  The  chase  (»f 
the  costly  sea-otter  (which  from  excessive  persecution  had 
;it  one  time'  almost  become  extinct)  has  latterly  improved. 
IJtsides  the  fur  animals,  they  also  hunt  the  reindeer,  the 
;ny'ali,  the  wolf,  and  the  bear,  whose  skins  supply  them  with 
ithiiu 


(,i(iuiin<4'. 


JJears  abound  in  Kamtschatka,  as  they  find  a  never-failinj^ 
sujudy  of  fishes  and  berries,  and  Ermann  assures  us  that  they 
would  lonfj  since  have  extirpated  the  inhabitants,  if  (most 
[aobably  on  account  of  the  plenty  in  Avhich  they  live)  they 
were  not  of  a  more  o-entle  disposition  than  any  others  in  the 
woild.  In  sprin}^'  they  descend  from  the  mountains  to  the 
iiiouths  of  the  rivers,  to  levy  their  tribute  on  the  mio-ratory 
troops  of  the  fishes,  frequently  eatin<^'  <*idy  the  heads. 
Towards  autumn  they  follow  the  fishes  into  the  interior  of 
the  ci»untry  as  they  ascend  the  streams. 

The  most  valuable  domestic  animal  in  Kamtschatka  is  the 
dd^',  Avho  has  the  usual  characters  of  the  Esquimaux  race,  lie 
lives  exclusively  on  fish,  which  he  catches  very  dexterously. 
From  spriny;  to  autumn  he  is  allowed  to  roam  at  liberty,  no 
niic  troublinj^'  himself  about  him  ;  but  in  October,  every  pro- 
laietur  collects  his  dogs,  binds  them  to  a  post,  and  lets  them 
tiist  for  a  time,  so  as  to  deprive  them  of  their  superfluous  fat, 
;nidt(>  render  them  more  fit  for  runnino'.  Durino-the  winter 
tliev  are  fed  with  dried  fish  everv  morniun-  and  eveiiinjjr,  but 
while  travelling'  they  get  nothing  to  eat,  even  though  they  run 
tor  liuurs.  Their  strength  is  wonderful,  (ienerally  no  more 
than  five  of  them  are  harnessed  to  a  sledge,  and  will  drag 
with  case  three  full-grown  persons,  and  sixty  pounds  wt'ight 
"f  luggage.  When  lightly  laden,  such  a  sledge  will  travel 
tVoiii  :>0  to  40  versts  in  a  day  over  bad  roads  and  through 
the  deep  snow  ;  on  even  roads  from  80  to  110?  The  horse 
laii  never  be  used  for  sledging,  on  acconnt  of  the  deep  snow, 
into  which  it  would  sink,  and  of  the  numerous  rivers  and 
sources,  which  are  either  never  fr<»/en,  <jr  merely  coveriMl 
with  a  thin  sheet  of  ice,  unable  to  bear  tlie  weight  of  so  largo 
an  animal. 


'2'JO 


Tin:  i'olm;   \\niii.i». 


'rriivclHiiy'  with  don's  is,  huwi'vcr.  Iiotli  tl;iii!^t'i'«»us  iiii<I 
(lifllclih.  Iiistciid  ('('  tilt'  \vlii|i.  111'  l\:iiiit>cli;itlviilis  ii-.' 
ii   crooKc'l    stick    \vi(li    ii-dii   riiiLis.   \vlii(|i.   I>y   1  heir  jiii^liii;:". 

Li'lvc   llic    IcMilcr    oi'  tlic    Iciilii    the    l|fci>.>;|  I'V    si'jllil  Is.       WIhii 

1Im'  (i(»^'s  do  not  siiHiciciilIy  cxci't  t In'iiisclvcs.  Ilic  sliik 
is  ciist  iiiiioii^'  tliciii  t(»  roiisc  lliciii  (<i  L;'i(';iti'i'  s|M'f(l  :  lnit 
then  ilx'  triivcllcv  must  ln'  dcxtriniis  ciiuii'^li  to  \>\v\<  ii 
uj>  iiy'iiiii  wliilt'  tlio  sl('<l;4'c  sli(»(»ts  iiii'iin".  DiiriiiL;'  :i  siicu- 
stonii,  tlu'  (Id^s  K('('|>  tlicii-  iniislrr  wiiriii,  iiinl  will  lie  (|ui(  tl\ 
iM'iir  liim  lor  liours,  so  tliat  lie  luis  im  rt'ly  to  ijrcvciit  llic  siidu 
f'roiii  covt'i'iii^'  liim  too  deeply  iiiid  siitVocatiie^  liiiii.  'riw 
doys  lire  iilso  cxcfdlcut  wriitlicr  jiro|ili('ts.  lor  wlieii,  while 
rostiii;^',  tiiey  di;^'  liolcs  in  llie  snow,  ii  ^(ornl  uiiiy  wilh 
ccrtiiiiity  Ite  expected. 

Tiie  sledL»'e-do<;'s  iire  tniined  to  tlieir  t'nture  service  iit  a  veiy 
early  period.  Soon  after  l)irtli  they  are  jilaced  with  tlhir 
mother  in  a  deep  pit.  so  as  to  see  neither  man  nor  Ix'ast,  ainl 
after  having-  heen  weaned,  they  are  a^'ain  eondemned  to  soli- 
tai'v  eonlinement  in  a  \>\\.  A  Iter  six  months  they  are  attac!ir(l 
to  a.  sled,<4'e  witli  otln'r  older  dot;'s,  iind  beinn'  extremely  sliy. 
they  run  as  fast  as  tliev  can.     ( >n   retm-niie^  home,  the\  mv 


\M. 


ain  eonlined  in  tlieir  jdt,  where  thev  remain  until  tl 


le\    ;il'(' 


perfectly  trained,  and  aWe  to  perform  a  lon<_f  journey.     'I'ln  ii. 
but    not    before,    thev    are    allowed    their    summer    liherlv. 


li'V 


This  severe  education  (•omi)h'te1y  s<jiu's  their tem]»er,  and  tl 
constaiith'  remain  <;'hiomy,  shy.  quarrelsome,  and  suspicioii<. 
To  return  to  the  Kanitschatkans — travellers  jn-aise  tlnir 
g'oodnature,  their  ]ios[»itality,  and  their  natural  wit.  ( M  ;i 
sau<^'ui.;e  <lisposition,  tliey  are  hapi)y  and  content  in  tlnir 
poverty,  ami  have  no  cares  for  the  morrow.  Ueini;"  extremely 
indolent,  they  never  work  uuk'SS  when  compelled.  Thev 
readily  a<lopt  strange  manners,  and  no  doubt  education  miiilit 
produce  valuable  results  in  so  pliable  an<l  sharp-witted  a  raci'. 
llnfortunaiely  the  Russians  and  Cossacks  who  have  setthil 
anion«>'  them  do  not  afford  them  the  best  examples.  Tln'V 
luivo  lonsj;"  since  been  converted  to  the  (Jreek  (.liuj'ch,  but  it 
is  supposed  that  baptism  has  n<.>t  fully  effaced  all  traces  uf 
Selr.uuanisui.  Formerly  they  had  mauy  ^"ods,  the  chiet'  et 
whom  was  Kutka.  the  creator  of  heaven  and  earth.  Ihit  tar 
from  honouriuu'  Kutka.  thev  continuallv  ri<liculed  him.  mid 


I!    I 


rolls  iiiiil 
kiiiis  ii>i' 
jiliLiliiiL:', 
<."  Wl.ni 
llic  slick 
|i('i'(l  :  liiit 
:<>  pick  ii 
;•  a   siidw- 

lic  (|Uirtl\ 

t  the  siidw 

lilll.       'I'lh' 

It'll,    wliilc 
iiiiiv    wilh 


KAMIXIIATKW    (  II  AI.'ACTKi; 


H'irsiitiiv.      Kiiik;i,  I 


m;hl('  liiiii  tli.'<'..ii.stiiiit  I. lift  <,(■  t! 

I'iHliiuii;.  ("Imcl.v,  uhovviis,.iMluu,.,|  with  :illtli..ii,'i,.|li',- 

Ml  Wllicl.    UvV  SlMMISr  was  Sl.l.,,ns,.,l  In  1„.  ,  l.-liH.-uf ,   ,,,,.1    uf 


•j!»: 


|ii\vc\('|' 


cure 


til 


lit,    ilS 


"•  ••as..  ,n  iMiiMv  lanri;,!  l,(,us..k-<...|.ii,o.s,  uas  mu.luuiW 
rx.Ttm-  li.T  iiij.,.„uity  ill  rrpairin-  ll„>  h|,:M..l..rs  ,,f'  l„.f  lunl 
and  luustcr. 


I'  a1  a  vriA 
ivitli  tlii'ir 
I  least,  and 
('(I  to  sdli- 
1'  atlaclicil 
'Uiclv  sliv. 

',  tllt'V  illV 

1  tlicv  ;iiv 
y.  'Vhm. 
'1'  lilxTly. 
,  aiul  liii'v 
ns[)i('iou<. 
'aisc  tlifir 
vit.  or  II 
t  ill  tln-ir 
cxtrt'iiii'iv 

L'CL        TlirV 

tion  iiiiu'ht 
tod  a  riM''. 
ve  si'ifli'il 
OS.  Tlu'v 
rcli,  1)1  it  it 
[  traeos  vi 
e  t'hic't'  nt' 
.  But  far 
liiiii.  and 


UJin  Ki  I  .irr.aux  L'u:;. 


■mn 


■•J?j-#j*.^ 


The  ScJcntary   TchiiktcLi  and  their  Tciitd. 

(  From  an  ori.'ina'  sk-f  li  l.y  F't'lerlcli  Wiiymp-  r.) 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


THE    TCIIUKTCHI. 

'I'lic  Liiiul  of   llic    'rrliuktolii — TliL'ir  imlcppinlont  Spirit  aiifl  commoivial   KiiU 


JilMI- 


Ti'iMH'liial   Mii.n'atii>iis — The  Fair  of  Ostrownoio — Visit    in   a  'J'l'iiukl 


I'dlipif  -  Hai'rs — 'I'l'liukli'li    Ilajatlcros 


— Tiic  Onkilon  or  Scdi'iitary  Ti'liuktclii  — Tiifir  }>h 


The    Tiniiyi:k   or    lu'iiidi'cr   Toliuklciii 
>fLif.'. 


A. 


r  tlio  extivinc  north-eastern  point  of  Asia,  bounded  li\ 
the  Polur  Oeean  on  one  si(h'  and  the  sea  of  Behrin^' 
on  the  other,  lies  the  hmd  of  the  Tchuktehi.  The  few 
travellers  Avho  hiive  ever  visited  that  bleak  proniontorv 
describe  it  as  one  of  the  dreariest  reji'ions  of  the  eartli. 
The  climate  is  dreadfully  cold,  as  may  be  expect(^d  in  ;i 
country  contined  between  icy  seas.  Bef(nv.July  20th  there  is 
no  appearance  of  summer,  and  winter  already  sets  in  al)out 
Au^'ust  2()th.  The  lower  grounds  shelving*  to  the  north  :ire 
intersected  with  numerous  streams,  which,  however,  enj"V 
their  libertv  but  a  short  time  of  the  vear ;  the  vallevs  iiiv 
mostly  swampy  and  tilled  with  snuill  lakes  or  ponds;    wliil*' 


1    CI 


on  the  bleak  hill  slopes  tlie  Vaccinium  and  the  dwarf  bird 
willow  sparingly  vegetate  under  a  carpet  <jf  mosses  and  liclien 


Tin:  fa;u  oi'  ostuowno-ii-: 


•2fit> 


Tlic   cnstorii,   iiorth-etistorii,    and    ]>iirtly   also   tlio   souUrtu 


I'l  i;is 


fee- 
Wt-- 


ulod  l>y 
>«>lirinL;" 
he  low 
loiitorv 

earth, 
il  in   a 

here  is 
1  about 
)rt]i  are 

ys  an' 
;  ^vhil'' 
)in'h  or 

iehens. 


Is  ahouml  with  wahaises,  sea-lions  and  seals,  while  the 
i,i!itleer,  the  arj^'ali,  the  wult,  and  the  Arctie  fox  oeeiijiy  the 
laii<l.  Dnrino-  the  short  summer,  "^vese,  swans,  dueks,  and 
uiiiliui^-  l)irds  lre(|ucnt  the  marshy  oT(»unds;  but  in  winter 
till'  snow-owl  and  the  raven  alone  remain,  and  constantly 
ft  How  the  path  of  the  nomadie  inhabitants. 

In  this  desolate  nook  of  the  Old  World  lives  the  only 
almri^'inal  people  of  North  Asia  whieh  has  known  how  1<» 
iiiaiutain  its  liberty  to  the  present  day,  and  whieh,  pntudof  its 
iiiilt'[)endenee,  looks  down  with  soverei^'u  contempt  upon  its 
ivlations,  the  Korjaks,  who,  without  otfering  any  resistance, 
have  yielded  to  the  authority  of  Russia. 

The  rulers  of  Siberia  have  indeed  confined  the  Tchuktchi 
within  narrower  limits — but  here  at  least  they  obey  no  forei^'ii 
iiilcr,  and  wander  unnndested  by  the  stram^jer,  with   their 

II  iiuierous  reindeer  herds,  over  the  naked  tundras.  A  natural 
distrust  of  th(.'ir  powerful  neighbours  has  rendered  themhaig- 
miwillin<^^  to  enter  into  any  commercial  intercourse  with  the 
Russians  and  to  meet  them  at  the  fair  of  Ustrownoje,  a  small 
I'lwii,  situated  not  far  from  their  frontiers,  on  a  small  island 

III  llie  Aniuj,  in  (58°  N.  lat. 

This  reuiotest  trading--place  of  the  Old  World  is  not  so 
uiiiiii[»ortant  as  miy-ht  be  supposed  from  the  sterile  nature 
iif  ilie  countrv,  for  the  Tchuktchi  are  not  satisfied,  like  the 
iuilolciit  Lapps  or  Hamojedes,  with  the  produce  of  their  rein- 
ilii  r  herds,  but  strive  to  increase  their  enjovments  or  their 
|M.i|H'rty  by  an  active  trade.  From  the  East  Oape  of  Asia, 
while,  crossing'  Behring's  Straits  in  boats  covered  with  skins, 
tli'v  barter  furs  and  walrus  teeth  from  the  natives  of  America, 
till'  Tchuktchi  come  Avith  their  goods  and  tents  drawn  on 
sli'dgcs  to  the  fair  of  Ostrownoje.  Otlier  sledges  laden  with 
liiliciis,  the  food  of  the  rt'indeer,  foll(.»w  in  their  train,  a.s 
ill  tlicir  wauderings,  however  circuitous,  they  not  sclddiii 
ii;!ss  through  regions  so  stouv  and  desert  as  not  even  to 
aH'oid  these  frugal  aninr.ils  the  slightest  re}»ast.  Thus 
reuulatiiig  their  movements  by  the  wants  of  their  herds, 
tliiy  rcfjuire  live  or  six  months  for  a  journey  which,  in 
II  'lirect  line,  wouM  uot  be  much  longer  than  a  thousand 
vi  rsis,  mid  are  almost  constantly  wandering  from  place   to 


•.\m> 


TlIK    I'oLAK    WOUIJ), 


|)l:ic<',  tliduu'li,  us  tlii'V  iilwiivs  ciiiTV  tlirir  (Iwclliiiu'S  ali'iiu- 
Avitli  them,  tln'V  i)t  the  sumo  time  iicvt'V  Icuvc  liomc  <>iif 
of  tlicsc  snail-likt'  caiMvaiis  <i'('iK'i'ally  coiisisis  of  lifty  or 
six'tv  families,  and  one  fair  is  scarcely  at  an  ciitl  wlu'u  llii  y 
set  otf  to  make  their  arran^-ements  for  the  next. 

Tohaci-o  is  the  primum  mobile  of  tlie  tra(h>  Avliieh  eeiilres 
in  Ostrownoje.  Tlie  (h'sire  to  proenrt,'  a  few  of  its  iiarcolic 
li'aves  itiduees  tlie  Ameriean  b]s([uiniaiix,  from  tlie  ley  i';\\u' 
to  Bristol  ]>ay.  to  send  their  prodnee'  from  hand  to  hand  as 
far  as  Ihe  <J\vosde\v  Islands  in  ]>ehrinL;''s  Straits,  where  it  is 
bartered  i'or  the  tol)aeeo  iA'  the  Tehukt(dii,  and  these  aL^ain 
principally  resort  to  ilie  fair  of  ( )strowuoje  to  pnrchase  lu- 
bacco  from  the  Russians,  (lenerally  the  Tehukt(dii  receive 
from  the  Americans  as  many  skins  foi-  half  a  poo<l  or  eiuli- 
teeii  pounds  of  tobacco-leaves  as  they  alter.vards  sell  te 
tlie  Russians  for  two  poods  of  t(»bacco  of  the  same  (pialitv. 
These  cost  the  linssiau  merchant  al)out  !()(►  roul)les  at  tln' 
very  ntniost,  while  the  slcins  Avhicdi  he  obtains  in  barter  a''^' 
■worth  at  least  liCiO  at  Jakutsk,  and  nnn-e  than  double  tliul 
sum  at  St.  Petersburu'. 

The  fiU's  ((f  the  Ti-hnl<t(dii  ]»riucipally  consist  of  black  ainl 
silver  u'rey  foxes,  stiuie  foxes,  li'luttons,  lynxes,  otters,  beavers, 
and  ;i  tine  s]iecies  of  marten  wliich  does  not  occur  in  Siberia. 
and  approaches  the  sable  in  vaUie.  They  also  brinu' io  the 
fair  bmir-skins,  walrns-tlion^'s  and  te<^th,  sledi^-e-runners  i>\' 
whale-ribs,  and  ready-made  cdotlu's  of  reindeei'-skin.  Tli" 
American  turs  are  ^'enerally  packed  in  sack's  of  seal-skin. 
Avhich  ari'  made  in  an  in^'cnious  manner  l)v  extracting'  l!ie 
bones  and  iiesh  throu^'h  a  small  opening-  made  in  the  abdonieii. 

The  Russian  traders  outlieir  ]>art  briuL;'  tit  the  i'aii'.  besidrs 
tobacco,  iron-ware  -particularly  kettles  and  knives  for  t!i'' 
IVdiuktchi.  and  tea.  snLi'ar.  and  various  stutfs  for  their  cniii)- 
trymen  Avho  have  settk.'d  ah)n^'  the  Kolyma. 

13ut(Jstrownoje  attracts  not  (»nly  T(diidvt(  hi  and  Russians: 
a  ;j^reat  number  of  the  Siberian  tribes  from  a  vast  circuit  ef 
1,0(10  or  l.oOO  versts  Jukahires.  Lamutes,  Tun^^usi,  Tscliu- 
wan/i,  Koriaks — also  come  ilockiii;,^'  in  their  sledp's.  drawn 
partly  by  doi>s.  ]»artly  by  horses,  for  the  purpos(»  of  bartering' 
their  commodities  au'ainst  the  <j"oods  of  tlu^  Tchukttlii. 
Fancy  this  barbarous   assembly   lueetiui*'  every  year  dui'in-' 


ol'KM.Nd    <U'    TIIK    lAII!. 


.•idl 


)lllt'.        OlP' 

r    lifty    or 

Vllt'll    lllrv 

rll  (•('Hires 

s  iiiircdiic 
lev  Ca].' 
()  hand  as 
rhcrc  i(  is 
.eso  iiLi'aiii 
rcliiisi'  1m- 

lli    I'crciv 

I  or  ('iL:!i- 
ils  sell  In 
e  qualilv. 

1(!S    ilt    till' 

barter  aiv 
ouble  tliat 

l)lack  aiiil 
s,  l)('a\('rs, 

II  iSilii'i'ia. 
iii;^-  lo  llic 
uiiicrs    of 

cin.  'I'll'' 
seal-skill. 
cliiiH'  tlic 
alMldiiini. 
ii\  Ix'sidi's 
s— tor  111'' 
leir  couii- 

J'ussiaiis: 
circuit  ct' 
i.  Tscliu- 

es.  drawn 
l)arterin^' 

\dinktclii. 

ir  diii'iiiL:' 


i!m'  iiileiise  cold  and  short  days  of  the  heL-'iiniini:;' of  March. 
I'iitiirc  to  youi'sclf  the  fantastic  illuniinal  ion  ni'  their  red 
w.itiji-lires  hlazinti"  under  the  stari-y  lirniainent.  or  miiii^-iiii^* 
;lieii-  ruddy  ;^'l.ire  with  the  Aurora  ilickeriiiL;'  throii^-h  the 
-kies.  and  add  to  the  strange  si^ht  the  hollow  sound  (d'  the 
>.liaiiiaii*s  di'iuii.  and  the  howliiiL;-  of  several  hundreds  ot' 
himL;-ry  doii's.  and  yon  Avili  surely  confess  that  no  fair  has  a. 
iiiMi'e  orie'inal  cliaracter  than  that  of  <  )st  I'ownoje.  A  '^-overn- 
puiil  coinniissai'y,  assisted  l)y  some  ("ossacks.  siijierinlends 
the  lair,  and  receives  the  inconsiderahle  market-tax  which 
t!i''  'rchuktclii  [lay  to  the  l'hii|teror. 

All  [ireliminaries  havinu'  lieen  arran;4'ed,  the  orfhodo.v 
lJii>>i;iiis  re[iair  to  tlie  (drajtel  for  the  pnriiose  of  heai-iiiLT  a 
s'i'iiin  mass,  aftei-  which,  tiie  hoistiuL;'  (d'a  ihiL;"  on  the  lower 
Mt'ihe  ()stroLi,"  announces  tlie  o|ieninti'  <'f  the  market.  At  this 
\\e|((niie  siLi'n  the  Tidiuktchi,  coni])lete!y  armed  with  spears. 
li.M\s  and  ai'rows,  advance  with  their  sled<_i'es.  and  forma  wide 
-I'lidcircle  round  the  fort,  wdiile  the  JIussians.  ainl  t!ie  other 
\i>itirs  of  tile  fair,  raiiu'cd  ojtjiosite  to  them,  await  in  l>reatli- 
l^^s  silence  the  toll  ill  !4"  of  the  bell,  whitdi  is  to  he^-in  t  he  act  ive 
liihiiii->s  of  the  day.  At  Iho  very  iirst  souiuL  each  trader. 
L;iiMes(|Uely  laden  with  ]ia(dca<4"es  of  tobacco,  k'elths.  knives. 
er  whatever  else  he  snii[)oses  Ijest  able  to  >U|iply  soiiie  want. 
el'  In  strike  some  fancy  (d'  the  'l'(diuktchi.  rushes  as  iast  as 
liecaii  towards  the  sleds^H  s,  and  in  the  jumble  not  seldom 
knurjvs  down  a  coinpetitor.  or  is  himself  stret(died  at  full 
leii'_;!li  on  the  snow.  liut,  nnmindt'ul  <d'  the  loss  (»!'  ca[>  and 
l:!'i\i's,  which  be  does  not  Li'ive  himself  time  to  piclc  u[i,  he 
>i  iris  afresh,  to  make  uj)  for  the  delay  by  redoubled  acti\  ily. 
b-i'.ai'  he  reaches  tlu.'  Iirst  T<dinkt(di.  his  eloi|Ueiic('  lireaks 
t'e.iji  in  an  interiniMable  How.  ainl  in  a  straiiue  jai'uou  «d" 
h'  i--iaii.  T(hukt(di,  and  Jakute,  he  praises  the  excellence 
ef  jiis  toiijcco.  or  the  solidity  of  his  kettles.  'I'he  iiii|M'r- 
liir'nabie  M'ravity  of  the  T(  hukt(di  foruis  a  remarkable  cdii- 
l;'a>l  with  the  Li'reedy  caL^'erness  (d'tlie  Russian  trader:  witli- 
I'lil  l•e[)lyin^•  t(»  his  harant^'ue,  lie  merely  shakes  his  head  if 
tile  other  oifers  him  loo  litth;  for  his  i^-oods,  ami  never  ibr  an 
iii>iant  loses  his  self-])oss(>ssion  :  while  the  itiissian.  in  his 
liiiiiy.  not  seldom  hands  over  two  jioods  (d'  t  aba  ceo  lb  r  one.  or 
|"'l\cts    a    red    fox.   instead    of   a   bhu-k    one.      Allhouyh   the 


3U2 


TIIK   rOLAll   WORLD. 


Tclmktcli  liiivo  no  scales  with  tlicni,  it  is  not  onny  in 
(loecivo  tlioni  in  tlic  wci^'lit,  for  they  kiKjw  oxiietly  hy  1lic 
feeling"  of  the  luind  whether  a  qnarter  of  a  pound  is  wantiiit^' 
to  the  pud.  The  whc»le  fair  se](h)in  hists  h)n^'er  than  tliivr 
(lays,  and  Ostrownoje,  which  must  have  but  very  few  sta- 
tionary inhabitants  indeed  (as  it  is  not  even  mentioned  in 
statistical  accounts,  which  cite  townis  of  seventeen  souls),  is 
soon  after  abandoned  for  many  months  to  its  ultra- Siberian 
solitude. 

But  before  w^c  allow  the  Tchuktchi  to  retire  to  their 
deserts,  we  may  learn  something"  more  of  their  habits  liy 
accompiinyin«4'  Mr.  Matiuschkin — Wranj^-ell's  companion — oii 
a  visit  to  tlie  ladies  of  one  <-)f  their  first  chiefs.  '  We  i-nter  tlic 
outer  tent  or  "  naniet,"  consistini«-  of  tanned  reindeer  skins 
supported  on  a  slender  framework.  An  opening*  at  the  tup 
to  let  out  the  smoke,  and  a  kettle  in  the  centre,  iinnouiiir 
that  antechamber  and  kitchen  are  here  harmoniously  blended 
into  one.  But  Avhere  are  the  inmates?  Most  probably  in 
that  largo  sack  made  of  the  finest  skins  of  reindeer  calves, 
which  occupies,  near  the  kettle,  the  centre  of  the  "  namet." 
To  penetrate  into  this '"sanctum  sanctorum"  of  the  Tchukidi 
household,  we  raise  the  loose  Hap  which  serves  as  a  door, 
creep  on  all  fours  through  the  opening,  cautiously  re-faslcii 
the  flap  by  tucking  it  under  the  Hoor-skin,  and  find  ourselves 
in  the  reception  or  withdrawing-room — tUe  "  polog."  ^\ 
snug  box  no  doubt  for  a  cold  climate,  but  rather  low,  as  avc 
cannot  stand  upright  in  it,  and  not  quite  so  w^ell  ventilated 
as  a  sanitary  commissioner  would  approve  of,  as  it  lias 
positively  no  opening  for  light  or  air.  A  suffocating  sun  dee 
meets  us  on  entering,  we  rub  our  eyes,  and  when  they  liave 
at  length  got  accustomed  to  the  biting  atmosphere,  we  per- 
ceive, by  the  gloomy  light  of  a  train-oil  lamp,  the  worthy 
family  squatting  on  the  floor  in  a  state  of  almost  C(»mplete 
nudity.  Without  being  in  the  least  embarrassed,  Madame 
Leiittandher  danghter  receive  us  in  their  primitive  costuiiic : 
but  to  show  ns  that  the  Tchuktchi  know  how  to  receivi- 
company,  and  to  do  honour  to  their  guests,  they  immediately 
insert  strings  of  glass  l)eads  in  their  greasy  hair.  Tlieir 
hospitality  equals  their  politeness;  for,  instead  of  a  cidd 
reception,  a  lud  disli  of  boiled  reiiideer-ilesh,  copiously  ini- 


AMUSEMENTS   OF   THE   TCIIUKTCIII. 


303 


(■  (Misy  t(i 
ly  l)y  \hr 
s  waiiliiiL;' 

llilU  Hirer 

,'  few  st;i- 
iitioiu'd  ill 
I  souls),  is 
II- Siberian 


'    to    tlicir 

luil)its  liy 

anion — nil 

)  enter  tlic 

deer  skins 

at  the  top 

,  annouiKi' 

;ly  ])leii(lcil 

robal)]y  in 

eer  ealves. 

••'  naniet." 

Tehuktcli 

IS   a  <\oi>\\ 

re-ilistcn 

1  ourselves 

00-."     A 

low,  as  ^\■(' 

ventilated 

as  it   lias 

in<^'  sinoke 

they  liavc 

•e,  we  i»er- 

lie  worthy 

eonii>lett' 

,  Madame 

i  eostunu' : 

to    receive! 

nnt.'diately 

ir.     Thei'r 

ot'    a    ct'ld 

(Uislv  iri'i- 


L;ated  Avith  rancid  train-oil  by  the  experienced  hand  of  the 
mistress  of  the  houseludd,  is  soon  after  sniokin<4'  before  us. 
riit'ortiuuitely  ouretfenniiate  taste  is  not  up  to  the  hunf  <ji>nl 
of  her  culinary  art,  and  while  Mr.  Leiitt  does  anii)le  justice 
to  the  artistic  talent  of  his  spouse,  by  rapidly  boltiny  down 
pieces  as  larye  as  a  fist,  wo  are  hardly  able  to  swallow  a. 
morsel.' 

During  his  visit  at  Ostrownoje,  Matiuschkin  had  a  favour- 
alile  opportujiity  of  bcconiinn"  ac(piaint(!d  with  the  sports  of 
the  Tchuktchi,  the  chieftain  jNIakoniol  haviii«>-  set  out  prizes 
for  a  race.  These  consisted  of  a  valuable  silver  fox,  a  lirst- 
vate  beaver  slcin,  and  two  fine  walrus  teeth.  Nothing  ca.n  be 
more  adnnral)le  than  the  Heetness  cf  the  reindeer,  or  the 
dexterity  of  their  drivers;  and  the  agility  displayed  in  the 
foot-race  by  the  Tchuktchi,  running  at  full  speed  in  their 
JK-avy  winter  dresses  over  a  distance  of  fifteen  versts,  gives 
a  high  idea  of  their  nniscular  powers.  After  the  races,  the 
spectators  are  treated  to  a  grand  choregraphic  display. 
The  arctic  bajaderes,  nmltled  from  head  to  foot  in  their  stiff 
skin  garments,  form  a  narrow  circle,  slowly  moving  their  feet 
backwards  and  forwards,  and  liercely  gesticidating  with  their 
hands,  whilst  their  faces  are  distorted  into  a  thousand  horrible 
^riiiiaces.  The  singing  that  accompanies  the  l^allet  has  no 
ilinibt  its  charm  for  native  ears,  but  to  strangers  it  seems  no 
better  than  a  kind  of  grunt.  The  representation  is  closed  l)y 
three  first-rate  atiisfis  executing  ji  particularly  fav(»urite 
(huice.  The  faces  of  their  countrymen  express  the  same  in- 
tense admiration  with  which  a  European  dilettante  follows 
the  graceful  pirouettes  of  a  Taglioni,  whih'  the  liussian 
;4uests  see  only  three  greasy  monsters  alternately  rushing 
towards  each  other  and  starting  back,  until  at  length  they 
stop  from  sheer  exhaustion.  As  a  token  of  tlunr  satisfac- 
tion, the  Russians  regale  the  fair  performers  with  a  cup  of 
hiaiidv  and  a  r(dl  of  tobacco,  and  both  iJarties  take  leave  of 
eaeh  other  with  nnitual  protestations  of  satisfaction  and 
rrieiidshi[». 

Though  m(»st  .of  the  reindeer  or  "nomadic  Tchuktchi  have 
In-eu  baptized,  yet  Wrangell  supi)oses  the  ceremony  to  have 
heeii  a  mere  financial  speculatitjji  on  tiieir  i»art,  and  is  con- 
vinced that  the  power  <.»f  the  Schamans  is  still  as  great  as 


nm 


;{u4 


Tiir:  roLAK   wdki.d. 


<'V<'r.  All  ('pi(l(.'iiii<*  liiiil  ciuricd  ofl"  ii  <xvt:u\.  mimlK'v  of  ptn-- 
soiis,  iiiid  iilso  whole  licrds  of  i'(  iiidccr.  hi  Viiiii  the  Sclm- 
iiiaiis  liiid  ivf« (ur.se  to  tlicir  iisuiil  conjuriitioiis,  tlio  plii;_;ui' 
coiitiiiiK.'d.  Tlicy  coiisultcd  to^a'tlier.  mid  directed  tluit 
one  of  their  most  resi»eeled  chiefs,  iiiiiiied  Kotsrlioii,  linisf 
Ih'  Siiciilired,  to  ;i)>|)(.':i.se  the  irritiite<l  sj)irits.  Kotselieii 
"Wiis  Millii)<^-  to  suI.Miiit  to  tht'  sentence,  Imt  none  conhl  l>e 
found  to  execute  it,  until  his  own  son.  prevailed  on  hy  his 
father's  e.\h(»rtations,  and  territied  hv  his  threatened  curse, 
plunn'e<l  a,  knife  into  his  heart,  and  n'ave  his  l»ody  to  the 
Schanians. 

P(d\;4'aniy  is  i:"enera1  amonu'  the  Tchuktchi,  and  thev 
elian^'(.'  their  wives  as  often  as  they  please.  Still,  tliou^'h  the 
•\V(uneii  are  certainly  slaves,  thev  are  wljowed  more  iidlueiice, 
and  are  suhjecled  to  less  labour  than  anione-  many  sava^'es. 
Amony'st  other  heathenish  an<l  defeslahie  customs,  is  that  of 
killiiin'  all  deformed  children,  an<l  all  old  people  as  soon  as 
they  become  unlit  for  the  hardshi|is  and  fatiL;'ues  of  a,  nomade 
life.  'J\v<>  years  l>efor<'  Wran^-eli's  an'ivul  at  Kolyma,  there 
was  an  instance  of  this  in  the  c;ise  of  ()ne  of  their  richest 
(diiefs.  Waletka's  father  became  intirm  and  tired  of  life,  and 
was  put  to  death  at  his  own  e.\j»ress  desire,  l)y  some  of  lii^ 
nearest  relations. 

Besides  the  waiideriiej",  or  reindeer  Tchukttdii,  who  call 
themselves  Tenny^k,  there  are  others  dwelliiiL:'  m  lixed 
liabitations  alon;^'  the  Ijoi'ders  of  the  sea.  at  JJehrine-'s  Straits 
and  the  (iulf  of  Anadyr,  who  dill'er  considerably  from  the 
former  in  appearance  and  lan^•vlaL;•e.  These  Onkilon,  of 
stationary  Tchuktchi,  belonii"  to  the  wide-spread  Es<juimaii\ 
familv,  and,  lik(>  most  of  their  race,  subsist  bv  huutine-  tlie 
whale,  tlu'  walrus,  and  the  seal.  They  live  in  a  state  of  ab- 
ject dependence  on  the  nomad  Tchuktchi,  and  are  [)oor,  lik»' 
all  lislieriiien,  while  some  of  the  Tennvyk  chieftains  possess 
several  th(msauds  of  reindeer,  and  are  continually  addiiiLj'  tn 
their  wealth  by  trade.  Of  C(»urse  there  is  an  active  oxchanuv 
of  commodities  between  the  two;  the  Onkilon  furnishing 
thong's  of  walrus  hide,  walrus  teeth,  train  oil,  Ovc,  andreceiv- 
in;4'  reindeer  skins.  (»r  ready-made  clothes  of  tlu'  same  mate- 
rial, in  return. 

'J'hey  live  in  small  settienieuts  or  viilag-cs  spread  aloiiy*  tin,' 


Nr.MiiKijs  (»K  Tin;  TCIUKTCIII. 


,']().> 


roiist  ;  tlioir  Imfs,  raised  on  friinunvorlcs  of  whale  ril>  and 
(dvcrt'd  with  skins,  ivscmble  a  la !•<;•(>  irre^-uhir  cone  r('}>osinn" 
(III  its  side,  with  the  apex  directed  to  the  north  and  the  1)ase 
slii'lviji^*  ahruptly  to  the  south.  Here  is  the  suiiill  opeiiiiii;', 
cldst'd  by  a  (lap  of  loose?  skin,  which  serves  as  a  door,  while 
tiic  sDioko  escapes  and  tlie  li^-ht  enters  thronj^-h  a  K>nnd  hole 
ill  till'  ]-o(»f.  At  the  further  or  n(»vtli('rn  end  of  this  structure 
is  a  second  low  S(piare  tent  coviMvd  with  donhle  reindccM" 
skins,  the  polo;^-,  wliich  in  winter  serves  l)oth  as  the  dining' 
mill  hed-rooni  of  the  family. 

The  Onkilon  catch  seals  in  a  kind  <»f  net  nnidc  of  Icafhcr 
>t!aiis,  Avhich  they  spread  out  nnder  the  iee, and  in  whicdi  the 
iiiiiiiial  entang'les  itself  with  the  head  oi-  ilip|>ers.  When  the 
wiihtis,  which  is  particularly  abundant  about  Koliutschin 
Ulnnd,  creeps  on  shore,  they  steal  ui>on  it  unawares,  ctit  oH' 
its  retreat  and  kill  it  with  their  spears.  Like  the  E.s(piiniau.v, 
tlii'v  use  do'^'s  to  drai"'  their  sled^'cs. 

Tlie  nund)er  of  the  Tchnktchi  is  o-veater  than  one  mi^ht 
I'Xpect  to  Hnd  in  so  sterile  a  C(»untry.  Aceordini;"  to  tlu* 
Kussian  niissionaries.  there  wer(\  some  years  back,  .'i^  nlussos 
(11'  viliai^vs  of  the  („)nkilon,  witli  l,o<;S  tents  and  10,000 
iiihaltitants  ;  and  Wrau<4'ell  tells  ns  that  the  Tennyi;!:  are 
lit  least  twice  as  nnnierons,  so  that  the  entii-e  po])n1atiou  of 
the  land  of  the  Tchuktchi  inav  ])ossil)lv  amount  to  :|0,0()0, 


ii'-  t  n  fir  ■   nrr . 


Kat'.vcs  "f  ■'";iia!a3c'..l-:a. 


(/IfAPTER  XXV. 

nEirUINd    SKA — THE    lU'SSlAX    V\\l    rOMl'AXY — TlIK    A].i;iT>. 

Jlfliriiiii-    Sci -rnaliisrhk.-i-'l'lir    I'l'iM'ow   l.-liin.ls     S|.   .M^ililicu-— St.    Liiiir.-nr. 

—  Ililiriiii:"s  Straits  — Tile  Kussiiia  \'i\v  t'oiiiiiaiiy- --'J'lic  Alciits     'I'lirir  Clmiai'tr: 

-  'I'lK'if  Skill  and   Iiil fiiiiility  in  lliintinij;  the  St^a-uttcr — Tin.'  Sra-licar     \\li:il' 
C'liasiiiii;    AValrns  SlaiiLjhtcr     'I'lic  SiM-lioii. 

1)EI[RIXli!  SEA  is  cxtn'iiiely  iutcrostiiiL,'  in  a  geoo-riiplii- 
)  Ciil  point  of  view,  as  the  toniporatiirc  of  its  cf>!ists  ami 
islands  exhibit  so  stvikin;;'  a  contrast  with  that  part  of  tin' 
Arctic  Ocean  which  extencLs  between  Greenland,  Icelaml. 
Norway,  and  .Spitzbergen,  and  affords  ns  the  most  convinciiii: 
proof  of  the  benehts  we  owe  to  the  Gnlf  Stream  and  to  tin' 
mild  sonth-westorly  winds  Avhich  sweep  across  the  Atlanti'-, 
While  throng-h  the  sea,  between  Iceland  and  Scotland,  a  part  nt 
the  Avarmth  generated  in  the  tropical  zone  penetrates  by  moans 
of  marine  and  aerial  cnrreiits  as  far  as  Spitsbergen  and 
the  western  coast  of  Novaya  Zemlya,  the  Sea  of  Bebring  is 
completely  de])rived  of  tb.is  advantage.  The  long  chain  <'t 
mountainous  islands  Avhich  bounds  it  on  the  south  sivv.'s 
as  a  barrier  airainst  tlie  mild  inMuoncc  of  ihe  I*a(*i(i<'.  and  in- 


I!    I 


rMMATi;  or  riiK  nr.iiiiixii  ska. 


;t07 


-St.    I,;im''ii'i 
li.ir  Cliarai'tii' 


iti  ;i(l  ul'  warm  strciinis  mixing  with  its  waters    many  coiisidcr- 
rivcrs  and  deep  bays  yearly  discharge  into  it  enormous 


;iiMi- 


iiiiisses  or  UH 


fi< 


'I'll 


th 


Bell 


S.>a  li 


liiis  as  soon  as  tiie  navigator  I'uters  jieliriny  nea  ne  [)ei'- 
r.i\('s  at  once  a  considerahle  fall  in  the  tem[»eratnre,  and 
lliids  liiiustd*'  suddenly  transferred  from  a  temperate  oeeauie 
niiioii  to  one  of  a  decidedly  Arctic  cliai'acter. 

In  s[tite,  therefore,  of  their  comi)aratively  snutherly  jiosi- 
fidii  I'for  the  Straits  ot"  ]Jehrin<!'  do  not  even  reach  the  An'tic 
ciiclt',  and  the  Andrianow  Islands  are  ten  deo-rees  farther  to 
tilt'  Miuth  than  the  Feroes),  those  fri^'id  waters  are,  with  re<^'ard 
imlimate,  far  less  favourably  situated  than  the  seas  of  Spit/.- 
lici'ncn. 

The  same  i^'radual  ditt'erences  of  temperature  and  v<\l;'<'- 
i;iti<'ii  whi(di  we  find  in  L'lialasehka,  the  J'ribilow  Islanrls, 
St.  Laurence,  and  the  Straits  of  IJchrini^-,  within  Jo"  of 
latitude,  occur  in  the  Shetland  islands,  Iceland,  liear  Island, 
and  Spit/ber<4'en  ;;t  distances  of  almost  2(>';  so  that  in  the  Sea 
nf  lichriniif  lire  increase  of  cold  on  advancing-  tc»  the  north  is 
aliniit  twice  as  rapid  as  iu  the  watt'rs  between  North  Euro[)c 
and  North  America. 

Tlie  lonL>'  and  narrow  peninsula  of  Aljaska,  wliiidi  forms 
tilt' south-eastern  boun(hjry  of  this  inhospitable  sea,  shows  us 
it>  iidluenco  in  a  very  marked  de^-ree,  for  while  tlie  climate 
"t  tlie  northern  side  of  that  far  projecting.;'  land-tongue  has 
a  il.'.idedly  Arctic  character,  its  southern  coasts  frontin;;'  th<> 
I'acitic  enjoy  a  tem]K'rate  clinuite.  The  mountain-chain 
wliicji,  rising-  to  a  heig'ht  of  five  or  six  thousand  feet,  forms  the 
bai-k-bone  of  the  peninsula,  serves  as  tlie  boundary  of  two 
distinct  Avorlds,  for  while  the  northern  slopes  are  l)leak  and 
tivtless  like  Iceland,  the  southern  shores  are  eoven'd  trom 
till'   water's  edge   Avith  magnificent   forests.     While   on   tlu' 


iinriln'rn   side   the   walr 


us   » 


■xtciuls   his  excursions   down     to 


III! 


)'•  •!'»'  N.  L.,  on  the  southern  exposure  the  humming-bird  is 
•I'lii  to  ilit  from  iiovver  to  lk»wer  as  high   as  (il^,  the  most 

rtherly  point  it  is  known  to  attain. 

The  Feroe  islands  ((IT^  N.  lat.)  have  undoubtedly  a  no 
vi'iy  agreeable  clinuite  to  boast  of,  but  they  may  almost  be 
^iiid  to  enjoy  Italian  skies  when  compared  with  IJnalasidika 
•'I    N.  lat.),  the  best  known  (tf  the  Aleiitian  cliain. 


X  2 


.■U)S 


TIIK    I'OLAIt    WOKIJ). 


Tlio  Scandiniiviiui  arcliipelaf^'o  is  frequently  obsonrcil  witli 
foo-s,  ])\\t  lici'c  tlicy  ai'ft  pcvpctuiil  from  April  to  tlie  ini(MI<' 
of  .luiy.  J''r(»iii  this  tiiiic  (ill  the  end  of  September,  Ihc 
"Nveather  improves,  as  then  the  southerly  winds  drive  tlir 
to^'l^y  reo;ion  more  to  the  north,  and  enable  the  snn  to  shine 
dnring  a  few  serene  daysnpon  the  bleak  shores  of  Unaliischl<a. 
Bnt  soon  the  Polar  air-streams  rc^^'stin  the  snpromaey,  and  ii 
dismal  veil  once  more  shronds  the  melancholy  island.  8iio\v 
o-enerally  be}j;'ins  to  fall  early  in  October,  and  snow-storms 
occur  to  the  very  end  of  May.  There  are  years  in  whicli  it 
rains  continually  during  the  whole  winter.  In  the  Fernrs 
some  service  trees  are  to  be  seen  twelve  feet  hiy-li  or  moiv, 
while  nothinij;'  like  a  tree  ever  yrew  in  Unalaschka.  The  dif- 
ference between  the  temperatures  of  the  snmmer  and  winter, 
which  in  the  Feroes  is  confined  to  very  narrow  limits,  is 
much  more  considerable  in  Unalaschka,  thouo-h  here  also  TJie 
moderatin*^-  influence  of  the  sea  makes  itself  felt.  Tims 
in  summer  the  thermometer  rarely  rises  above  ()()°,  but  on 
the  other  hand  in  winter  it  still  nnu'e  rarely  falls  below -J  . 

Of  course  no  corn  of  any  khul  can  possibly  ri])en  in  a  cliniiit(.' 
like  this,  but  the  damp  and  cool  temperature  favours  tlie 
gi'owth  of  herbs.  In  the  moist  lowlands  the  stunted  willnw 
bushes  are  stilled  by  the  luxuriant  o-rasses  ;  and  even  oa  the 
hills,  the  veo-etation,  which  is  of  a  decidedly  Alpine  charac- 
ter, covers  the  earth  up  to  the  line  of  perpetual  snow  ;  wliile 
several  social  plants,  such  as  the  Lupinus  iux)tkeanus  ami 
the  Rhododendron  kamtschadalicum,  decorate  these  disiaal 
regions  w4th  their  brilliant  C(dour.  The  lively  green  ef 
the  meadows  reminds  one  of  the  valley  of  Urseren,  so  ^\cll 
known  to  all  Alpine  tourists.  The  mosses  and  lichens  begin 
already  at  Unalaschka  to  assume  that  predominance  in  the 
Flora,  which  characterises  the  frigid  zone. 

A  few  degrees  to  the  north  of  the  Aleiitian  chain,  which 
extends  in  a  long  line  from  the  promontory  of  Aljasha  li> 
Kamtsclui.tka,  are  situated  the  Pribilow  Islands,  St.  Clecrge 
and  St.  Panl,  Avhich  are  celebrated  in  the  history  of  the 
fur  trade,  the  former  as  the  chief  breeding-place  of  the 
sea-bear,  the  latter  as  that  of  the  sea-lion.  Ohamisso  was 
struck  Avilli  their  wintry  aspect,  for  here  no  sheltered  vallcv.s 
and  lowlands  promote,  as  at    Umilaschka,   a  more    vigt)i'oiis 


Till-:    I'lJllilLOW    ISLAM).-?. 


:'M> 


vi'^t'tiitiou.  Tilt.'  rouiidod  baeks  of  tliu  hills  aiul  the  scattered 
lucks  ai'o  C'overod  willi  hlnek  mid  ;;'rey  lichens ;  and  wlu'iv 
llir  iiieltiii!4'  snows  all'ord  a  suilieient  moisture,  si»lui^'nuni, 
iimsses,  and  a  lew  weeds  occupy  the  marshy  ;^round.  The 
iVo/en  earth  hiis  no  spring's,  and  yel  these  desolate  islands 
li;iv(>  a  more  southerly  situation  tliiin  the  Orkntws,  A\here 
liarley  ^tows  to  ripeness.  JJel'ore  these  islands  Avere  dis- 
ci'Vi'j't.'d  by  the  IJussians  they  had  been  for  a;^i'S  the  un- 
disturbed home  of  the  sea  birds  and  tin?  larn'e  cetacenn 
>i;ils.  Under  Russian  superintendence  some  Aleiits  have 
now  been  settled  on  b<jth  of  them.  The  innumerable  herds 
(pI  sea-lions,  -which  cover  the  naked  shores  of  St.  (.Seorye  iis 
];ir  us  the  eye  can  reach,  present  a  strauLje  si;4'ht.  Tli(> 
n;iiillemots  have  taken  possession  of  the  places  nnoccu[»ie<l 
li\  their  families  and  fly  fearlessly  anionjj;'  them,  or  nestle  in 
the  crevices  of  the  Avavc-Avorn  rock-Avalls,  or  between  the  lar^-e 
Ixiiilders  Avhich  form  a  bank  alonn-  the  strand. 

Still  fartlier  to  the  north  lies  the  uninhabited  island  of  St. 
^hitthew  (02"  N.  hit.).  A  settlement  Avas  once  attempted  ;  but 
iis  the  animals  Avhich  had  been  reckoned  upon  for  the  Avinter 
snp[)ly  of  food  departed,  the  unfortunate  colonists  all  died  of 
luni^-er. 

Toys  are  so  frequent  about  the  island  of  St.  Laurence, 
that  navigators  luivo  often  passed  dost;  by  it  (G5°  N.  lat.) 
without  seeinf>-  it.  Chamisso  Avas  surprised  at  the  beauty  and 
the  numbers  of  its  dAvarfish  flowerinj^-  herbs,  which  reminded 
hiiu  of  the  hij^'hlands  of  Switzerland,  while  the  nei^'hbourini;- 
.St.  Laurence  Bay,  in  the  land  of  the  Tchnktchi,  was  the 
inia^o  of  Avintry  desolation.  In  July  the  loAvlands  Avere 
(■uvered  Avith  snow-fields,  and  the  fcAV  plants  bore  the 
Al[iine  character  in  the  most  marked  degree.  Under  this 
inclement  sky  the  mountains,  unprotected  by  A-cgetation, 
rapidly  fall  into  decay.  Every  Avinter  splits  the  rocks,  and 
ilie  summer  torrents  carry  the  fragments  down  to  their  feet. 
The  ground  is  everywhere  covered  Avith  blocks  of  stone, 
nnless  Avhere  the  sphagnum,  by  the  accumulation  of  its  de- 
I'uniposed  remains,  has  formed  masses  of  peat  in  i]\c  sAvampy 
I'lwlands. 

Oil  sailing  througii  IJehring's  Straits  the  traveller  iinivsee, 
in  clear  weaiher,  b(»ih  the^>ld  and  the  i\<'W  World.     (h\  ^»>[\\ 


:;i() 


Tin:    pfU^AIl    WOULD, 


sidcH  rise  lii;^)!  iiioniitiiiiis  jtrrcipilously  iVoin  tlif  Avatci"- 
Cflu't'  ill  Asiii,  l»iil  s»>[»iinii»Ml  fVom  tin-  stM  liv  ii  l»i'<>ii(l  :illiivi;il 
1)('U  <»n  llic  Aiiici'iciiii  si<l('.  The  scii  is  (U'cjicst  oii  Ww  Asiiitjr 
Imrdcr,  wiiciT'  IIk'  curri'id,  flowing'"  fVoni  tin'  suiitli  witli  c<>\\- 
sidcriiMi'  r;i|ii<li(  V,  luis  iilso  ilic  o-vcuicst  furcf.  Here  ;iUm 
wliiilcs  iiiiiv  1)1'  ol'tt'ii  stM'ii,  iiixl  liiriiT  ]nM"<ls  of  walniscs. 

hi  foniicr  1iiii"H  llic  hnidiir  <»!"  tlif  M.s(|iiiiiunix'  wms  llic  onlv 
lioiil  ever  sci'ii  ill  tli(!  stniits,  and  since  Sciiirn  Dcsliiicsv,  wlm 
lirst  sailed  round  llio  eastern  poiiil  of  Asia,  l'!ur<»pean  naviga- 
tors had  but  rarely  passed  tlieiii  to  explore  the  seas  hevoihl : 
Imt  j'ecentlj  tliis  I'eiiiotest  part  of  the  ^vorld  has  become  the 
sci'iie  (»f  an  active  whalii  iishei'v. 

The  shores  of  IJehrinn'  -"iea  are  nalced  andbleal<;  and  IIm- 
iiuni(>rous  voh'anoes  of  tlie  Aleiitian  chain  itoiir  out  their  lava 
streams  over  unlcnown  Avildei'iiesses.  Ihit  the  waters  of  tin- 
sea,  ai'e  tecMiiinj^'  with  lif«>.  Oi^'aiitic  aln"a\  such  as  are  iicvi  r 
seen  in  the  torrid  zone,  form,  round  the  roclcy  coasts,  vast 
submarine  forests.  A  host  of  fishes,  whales,  wah'uses,  and 
seals,  fill  the  sea,  and  its  shores,  and  innumerable  sea,  hi  ids 
occn[)y  the  clitt's.  IJnt  these  treasures  of  the  ocean,  Avliich 
for  a^-es  furnished  the  Aleiits  and  other  wild  tribes  with  tlic 
means  of  existence,  have  also  been  the  canse  of  tlunr  servitude. 
Had  the  sea-ottev  not  existed,  the  wild  children  of  the  soil 
mifi'ht  i^ossibly  still  bo  in  possession  of  their  ancient  freedom  ; 
and  but  for  the  sea-boar  and  the  walrns,  the  whale  and  tlic 
seal,  the  banners  of  the  C/ar  wonld  scarcely  have  met  the 
(lai»'  of  Enu'land  on  the  continent  of  America. 

As  the  whole  fur  trade  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Territory  is 
concentrated  in  the  hands  of  one  mii^hty  company,  thns  als" 
one  powerful  association  ojijoys  the  exclusive  commi-rci 
the  eastern  possessions  of  Rnssia.     The  reyions- 
anthority  of  the  Unssian  fur  company*  occnpy  a        ,iiui  , 
space,  as  they  conipriso  not  only  all  the   islands  ol    Hehriiu 
Sea  but  also  the  American  coasts  down  to  5,")°  N.  lat. 
extreme  points  of  this  vast  territory  are  situated  at  a  o-voatt  r 
distance  from  each   other  than    London  from  Tobolsk,  but 


*  Sinoo  \;\^{  year,  tlH>  Russian  ( invoriimcnt  liassuM  lior  Aiiuriran  jKis^.-ossioii^  i" 
tlio  I'liitrd  States,  Imt  as  if  is  iidl  yet  kiiowii  Imw  tart  lie  interest  sol'  tiie  h'tissiau  lui' 
eompany  liav'j  lieen  aniet'-il  by  the  eliaiifj(">,  I  may  I'e  alloweil  to  >poak  ul'  hrr  in  t'i' 
present  tense. 


N0l{|"nMi    1;aV 


■-ill 


(■  h'uf<siaii  I'll!' 
ut'  hii"  in  t!' 


iIh'    iiiiporlaun'    of    ils    Innli'    Immi-s    ik.    |'r(i[iiii'|  inn    tn    its 
f.Ntrlit. 

'I'lic  coiiiitimy,  wliidi  was  louiHlril,  in  tlir  vi'nr  17!'!),  tiiKlcr 
tin-  KiiiiMTor  I'lnil,  liii<l,  in  I s:!!t,  tlili-l v-si\  Innilinn'  s.-tllf- 
iiii'nts  un  its  own  fci-ritdiT  (the  Knrili'  isl;in<ls,  tin-  Ak'iitic 
(liain,  Aljaslvii,  Hi'istol  IJay,  < 'ottlv's  Inlet,  Norton  Sound,  Ac), 
liisidi's  a  I'liain  of  au'tMicics  IVoni  ( )(liotsl<  to  St.  I'otci-sltui'ir. 
li-  chief  scat  is  New  Aivliany-el  on  Sildia,  one  of  the  many 
islands  of  Kiue-  (leore-o  Ill.'s  Arehipelae-o,  Ijrsl  aecni-att'ly 
I'Niilorod  by  Viincouvor.  The  nia^^-nitieent  hay  of  Xoi'folk,  sii 
tlie  head  of  whieh  the  small  town  is  situated,  Lireatly  reseni- 
Mes  a  Norwc^'ian  fjord,  as  we  here  iind  the  same  steeji  roclc- 
walls  hathuijj;  their  proeipitoiis  sides  in  the  emi'iald  waters, 
and  (dothod  with  dense  pine  forests  wherever  a  tree  ean  y-row. 

A  number  of  islets  scattered  over  the  surface  of  the  bay 
add  to  the  beauty  of  the  scene.  The  i'lirs  collected  by  thc^ 
'•eni[iany  are  chieliy  those  of  sea-b(>ars,  sea-otters,  foxes, 
lieavers,  bears,  lynxes,  American  martens,  t^c.,  and  are  ]>artly 
tunnshed  by  the  subjects  (»f  its  own  teri-itory  (Aleiits,  iCad- 
jacks,  Kena'izes,  Tchu^'atchi,  Aljaskans),  who  are  c(.mpelled 
ti>  hunt  on  its  account,  and  partly  oljtainecl  by  barter  iVom 
Die  independent  tribes  of  the  mainland,  or  fioni  the  Hudson's 
li.iy  Company.  The  evr(>ater  i)art  is  sent  to  ()(diotsk,  or  tin; 
Amur,  and  from  thence  tlirou;^di  Siberia  to  St,  I'etersljuru- ; 
till'  rest  to  the  Chinese  ports,  Avliere  the  skins  of  the  younn" 
M;t-lK'ar  always  find  a  rea<ly  nuirket. 

( >f  all  the  abori<^inal  tribes  which  inhabit  the  vast  territory 

el'  Russian  America,  the  most  worthy  of  notice  is  that  of  the 

^  'eiits.     Less  fortunate  than  their  independent  relatives,  the 

-Hiiiinaux  of  the  north — avIio   in  the   midst  of  privations 

laiutain  an  imperturbable  o-aiety  of  temper — these  islanders 

ive  been  effectually  spirit-brolcen  undera  lorei;^!!  yoke,  in 
l^^ir,  the  cruel  treatment  of  their  mastei-s  h.ad  reduced  them 
1i>  al)out  a,  thousand  ;  since  that  time  their  nundHr  has  some- 
wliat  in.  ased,  the  company  havin«j;-at  lena'th  discovered  that 
man  is,  or  all,  the  most  vahuible  production  of  a  land,  and 
that  i  population  increased  still  further,  they  would  S(»ou 
have  j|.      lore  hunters  to  supply  them  with  furs. 

Evei'^  Alciit  is  bound,  after  his  eii^'hteenth  year,  to  serve 
the  company  llirec  i/iyirx',  and  this  ft>rced  labour-tax  does  not 


vRimP* 


■Ml 


TlIK    1 'OLA It    \V(»Iil.l>. 


seem  at  first  sii^lit  iiiunodcn'atc,  but  if  we  cojiskler  that  tlu' 
islaiKlcrs,  to  whoui  every  foreiLCn  ariiele  is  supplied  from  tlic 
Avarclioiises  of  llio  compnny,  are  invariably  its  debtors,  wt' 
eaiinot  doubt  that  as  loii^-  as  th(!  Aleiit  is  able  to  hunt  In- 
is  obli^-ed  to  do  so  for  the  AViii^a'S  of  a  slave.  The  Jlishdp 
Ivan  Wenianiinow,  who  resided  ten  years  at  Unalasohkn. 
draws  a  picture  of  this  people  Avhieh  exhibits  evident  marks 
of  a  lony  servitude.  They  nev<>r  quarrel  among- each  other. 
and  their  patience  is  exemplary.  Nothing-  can  surpass  the 
fortitude  with  vhich  they  endure  pain.  On  the  other  hiiiid 
they  never  show  excessive  jo}' ;  it  seems  impossible  to  raise 
their  feelings  to  the  pitch  of  delig'ht.  Even  after  a  lon^^  fast, 
a  child  never  g'rasps  Avith  enp^erness  the  proti'ered  morsel,  nor 
does  it  on  any  occasion  exhibit  the  mirth  so  natural  to  its 


a^^e. 


In  hnnting'  the  jnarine  animals  the  Aleiits  exhibit  a  won- 
derful skill  and  intrepidity.  To  catch  the  sea-otter  tiicv 
assemble  in  April  or  May,  at  an  app(.»inted  spot,  in  tluir 
li^ht  skin  boats  or  baidars,  and  choose  one  of  their  most  re- 
spected chiefs  for  the  leader  of  tlu;  expedition,  Avhich  gvue- 
rally  munbers  from  lifty  to  a  hundred  boats.  Such  hunting' 
[)arties  are  annually  ore-anised  from  the  Kurile  Islands  tn 
Kadjack,  and  consequently  extend  their  operations  over  a  liin' 
of  0,000  miles.  On  the  first  fine  day  the  expedition  sets  out 
and  proceeds  to  a  distance  of  about  forty  versts  from  the  coast. 
when  the  baidars  form  into  a  Iouil;'  line,  leaving"  an  interval  nf 
al>out  2-"')0  fathoms  from  Ijoat  to  boat,  as  far  as  a  sea-otlev 
diving-  out  of  the  water  can  be  seen,  so  that  a  roAv  of  thivty 
baidars  occupies  a  space  of  from  ten  to  twelve  versts.  Wlieii 
the  nund)er  of  the  boats  is  o-reater  the  intervals  are  reduee.l, 
Every  man  now  looks  upon  the  sea  with  great  attention. 
Nothing  escapes  the  eye  of  the  Aleiit;  in  the  smallest  bhu  k 
spot  appearing"  but  one  moment  over  the  surface  of  tin' 
waters,  he  at  once  recognises  a  sea-otter.  The  baidar  Avlii' li 
first  sees  the  animal  roAvs  rapidly  towards  the  S])ot  Avhere  llw 
creature  diA'ed,  and  noAV  the  Aleiit,  holding-  his  oar  straiu'lit 
up  in  the  air,  remains  motionless  on  tlie  spot.    Imnu^diately, 


the  AA'hole  squadron  is  on  the  moA'C,  and  the  long  strai'jht 
line  changes  into  a  Avid(>  circle,  tho  centro  of  which  is  oecii- 
pied  by  the  baidar  wiili  (lie  raised  onr.      The  otter  n<»t  lieiiii;' 


ciiAsi:  or  Tin:  si;a-otti:k. 


;u;^ 


altlo  to  ivmain  Itm^-  under  wiiter  roiip[)('ars,  ;nul  the  nearest 
Alt'iit  immediately  a-reets  liim  -with  an  arrow.  This  first 
;ittaek  is  seldom  mortal;  very  often  tlie  missile  docs  not  even 
ivaeli  its  mark,  and  the  sea-otter  instantly  disappears.  Aj^-ain 
the  oar  rises  from  the  nextbaidar;  again  the  circle  forms, 
hut  this  time  narrower  than  at  lirst ;  the  fatij4'ued  ottrr  is 
ijhli;^od  to  come  oftener  to  the  surface,  arrows  lly  from  all 
sides,  and  finally  the  animal,  killed  by  a  mortal  slu^t,  or  ex- 
hausted by  repeated  wounds,  falls  to  the  share  of  tlu-  ai-chcr 
who  has  hit  it  nearest  to  the  head.  If  several  otters  apiicar 
lit  the  same  time,  the  boats  form  as  many  rini^s,  provided 
tla.'ir  nundjer  be  sutKciently  great. 

The  boldest  of  all  hunters,  the  Aujiits  of  tlie  Fox  Islands, 
I  ursue  the  sea-otter  also  in  winter.  If,  during  the  summer 
cjiase,  the  rapidity  and  regularity  with  wdiicli  all  the  nu)ve- 
iiicntsare  performed,  and  the  sure  eye  and  aim  of  the  archers 
(•(»mmand  the  spectator's  admiration,  this  winter  chase 
i^ives  him  occasion  to  w^onder  at  their  courage.  Dnring  the 
severest  winter-storms  the  otter  shelters  himself  on  the  shore 
(if  some  small  uninhabited  island,  or  on  a  solitary  ro(dv,  and 
iitter  having  carefully  ascertained  that  no  enemy  is  near  coils 
himself  up  and  falls  asleep.  While  the  storm  still  rages, 
two  Aleiits  approach  the  rock  in  two  single  baidars,  from  tlie 
leeward.  The  hunter  in  the  foremost  baidar  stands  upright. 
;l  gun  or  a  club  in  his  hand,  and  waits  in  this  position  till  a 
\\  ave  brings  him  near  to  the  summit  of  the  rock.  He  now 
springs  on  hind,  and  while  his  companion  tak(^s  care  of  the 
I'liidar,  approaches  the  sleeping  otter an<l  shoots  it  oi-  kills;  it 
with  his  club.  AVith  the  assistance?  of  his  companion  who 
liiis  remained  on  the  water,  he  springs  back  into  his  baidar 
as  soon  as  the  crest  of  a  wave  brings  it  Avithin  his  rea<'h. 

The  sea-bear  is  nearly  as  valuable  as  the  sea-olfer  t(»  Ww 
I'ur  eompany,  as  the  woolly  skin  of  the  young  animal  is  the 
eiilyone  of  the  whole  seal  tribe  which  is  reckoned  auK.iig  the 
liner  i'cUry.  The  sea-bears  are  chietly killed  on  the  ('(»nimo- 
ilnve  and  Tribilow  Islands,  particularly  on  8t.  I'anI,  wliere 
tliev  are  hunted  by  a  certain  nunibc'r  of  Aleiits  located  there 
under  Uussiau  superintendence.  The  chase  begins  in  the 
lallei'  pan  of  September,  on  a  cold  tbggy  day,  wlnn  uie  wiutl 
I'lews  IVom   the  side  wlu're  the  animals  an-  assemlilc  i  on  ili< 


.'514 


TIIH    rOLAR    WOULD. 


rocls-y  shore.  Tlio  boldest  liuiitsinon  open  tlio  wny,  then  fol- 
low the  olck'V  people  iiud  the  cliil«lreii,  and  the  cliief  persoii- 
a<4'e  of  the  hand  eonioslast,  to  he  the  better  able  to  direct  and 
survey  tlw  movements  of  his  men,  who  are  all  armed  Avilh 
clnbs.  The  main  ol)jeet  is  to  cut  oft'  the  her<l  as  quickly  as 
possible  from  the  sea.  All  the  <^Town  up  males  and  femali's 
are  spared  and  allowed  to  escape,  but  most  of  the  youMn-o- 
animals  arc  sentenced  to  death.  Those  which  are  only  foni' 
months  old  (their  furs  bein"'  most  hig-hly  ]irized)  are  doomed 
without  exception  ;  Avhile  of  the  others  that  have  attained  an 
age  of  one,  two,  or  three  years,  orily  the  males  are  killed.  For 
several  days  after  the  massacre,  the  inothers  swim  about  the 
island,  seeking'  and  loudly  waiKn^  for  their  youn«4'. 

From  October  5,  St.  Paul  is  g-radually  deserted  by  the  sea- 
bears,  who  then  migrate  to  the  soulh  and  reappear  t(  wards 
the  end  of  A[)ri],  the  males  arriving-  first.  Each  seeks  the 
same  spot  on  the  shore  Avhich  he  occupied  during  the  pre- 
cedino-  year,  and  lies  down  among  the  large  stone  blocks 
with  Avhich.  the  flat  beach  is  covered.  About  the  iniddle  of 
May  the  i'ar  more  numerous  females  begin  to  make  their 
appearance,  and  the  sea-bear  families  take  fidl  possession  of 
Hie  strand.  Each  nnile  is  the  sultan  of  a  herd  of  females, 
varying  in  nundjer  according  to  his  size  and  strength;  the 
AV(>aker  brethren    contenting  themselves  with   half-a-do/en. 


while  some  of  the  sturdier  and  fiercer  fellows 


pr 


esKle  over 


harems  2U<>  strong.  Jealousy  and  intrusion  fre(piently  gi\>' 
rise  to  terrible  battles.  The  full-grown  male  sea-bear,  who 
is  about  four  or  live  times  Lirger  than  the  female,  grows  to 
the  len^'th  of  eiu'ht  feet,  and  owes  his  nanie  to  his  shaLin'v 
blackish  fur,  and  not  to  his  disposition,  which  is  far  froju 
being  cruel  oi'  savage. 

Arnn'd  with  a  short  spear  a  single  Alciit  does  not  hesitate 
to  attack  the  colossal  whale.  A]»proaching  cautiously  fn»ni 
Ix'hind  in  his  baidar  until  he  reaches  the  head  he  plunges  liis 
weapon  into  th(>  aninuiFs  ilank,  under  the  fore-lin,  and  thou 
ri't reals  as  fast  as  his  oar  can  carry  him.  If  the  spear  liai 
]»enetrated  into  the  ilesh,  the  whale  is  doomed,  it  dies  v.itliiu 
the  next  two  or  three  davs  and  the  currents  and  the  waves 


drift  the   carcase    to   the   nevt   shore 


Eacl 


I   s 


pc 


h 


ar  nas 


If- 


peculiar  mark  by  whicdithe  owner  is  recognised.     Sometinn 


WALRIS    IIlXTI.Vd, 


;U; 


I  he  baiiliir  tides  no!  cseii|>o  in  tiinf,  and  the  wliale,  iiUKldiMU'd 
lu  jiaiii,  i'lirioiisly  lashes  the  waters  Avith  its  tail,  and  throws 
till-  baidar  hi^-li  up  into  the  air,  or  sinks  it  dee[»  into  the 
>.'a.  The  Avhale  fishers  are  hij^-hly  esteemed  anion^^  the  Aleiits, 
;iii(l  their  intrepidity  and  skill  well  deserve  the  ijenoral  ad- 
miration. Of  eonrse  inany  of  the  Avhales  are  lost,  hi  the 
summer  of  l^'ol,  1 18  whales  were  wonnded  near  Kadjaek,  of 
\\  bich  only  forty-three  were  found.  The  others  may  have  been 
wafted  far  out  into  the  sea  to  rejji'alo  the  sharks  and  s(\i-l)irds, 
(ir  driven  to  more  distant  shores,  whose  inhabitants  no  (h>ubt 
;iladly  welcomed  their  landin<j,-.  Wran<^-ell  informs  lis,  that 
since  lS:J;j  the  Russians  have  introduced  the  use  of  the 
harpoon,  and  cn^'afu'ed  some  En«4'lish  harpooners  to  teach  the 
Aleiits  a  more  protitable  method  of  whale-catching',  but  we 
;ire  not  told  how  the  experiment  has  succeeded. 

The  company,  besides  purchasiuf;-  a  f>reat  quantity  of  walrus 
Icetli  from  the  Tchuktchi  of  tiie  Behriny's  Straits  and 
llristol  Bav,  send  everv  year  a  detachment  of  Aleiits  to  the 
imrth  coast  of  Aljaska,  where  •^■enerally  a  lar;^-e  nund>er  of 
youui;'  walruses,  probably  driven  aAvay  by  the  older  ones,  wh<i 
[iii'ter  the  vicinity  of  the  polar  ice,  spend  the  summer 
iiinnths. 

The  walruses  herd  on  the  lowest  ed^'e  of  the  coast  which  is 
within  reach  of  the  spri)io' tides.  Wlu'u  the  Aleiits  pi-epare 
tu  attack  the  animals,  thev  take  leave  i»f  each  other  as  if 
tlicy  Averc  <4"oing' to  face  death,  beino-  no  less  afraid  of  the 
tusks  of    the    Avalruses  than   of  the   awkwardness    of  their 


(i\Vl 


n    companions.      Armed    with    lances    and    heavy  axe 


lliey  stealthily  approach  the  walruses,  and  haviuLj'  disposed 
llicir  raidvs,  suddeidy  fall  u[>on  them  with  loud  shouts,  and 
endeavour  to  drive  them  from  the  sea,  takiuL:' cai-e  tlial  none 
"t  tlieni  esca[)e  into  the  water,  as  in  tiiat  case  the  rest  would 
ivresistibly  follow  and  precipitate  the  hunlsmen   alou'.;'   \\itli 


icni. 


As  soon  as 


thi 


1 


0  walruses  Inive  oeeii  driven  i.ir  eiioii^ii 


:h 


11 

up  the  strand,  the  Aleiits  attack  them  with  iheii'  lances, 
striking'  at  them  in  ]>laces  Avhere  the  hide  is  not  so  thick,  and 
then  pressiui;'  with  all  their  mi<^'ht  a^-ainst  the  s[t<'ar,  to  ren- 
der th(>  wound  diM.'p  and  deadly.  The  slauy'htered  animals 
Mnuble  one  over  the  other  and  form  lar^-e  hea[is,  whilst  the 
huntsmen,    utterin;^-    furious    shouts    and    int(txicated    with 


31C 


TJIK    rnLAIi    WOHLI*. 


carnage',  wado  throiio-h  the  bloody  mire.  Tlioy  then  eloavc' 
tlio  jaws  and  extract  the  tnslcs,  which  are  the  chief  ohject^ 
of  the  shmohter  of  several  thousand  walruses,  since  neither 
their  flesh  nor  their  fat  is  made  use  of  in  the  colony.  Th(; 
carcases  are  left  on  the  shore  to  be  washed  away  by  the 
spring'-tides,  which  soon  efface  the  mark  of  the  massacre, 
and  in  the  following-  year  the  inexhaustible  north  sends  now 
vi('tims  to  the  coast. 

Sir  George  Simpson,  in  his  '  Overland  Journey  round  tlie 
World,'  reiaies  that  the  bales  of  fur  sent  to  Kjachta  arc 
cover»Kl  with  Avalrus  hide  ;  it  is  then  made  to  protect  the  ten- 
chests  which  iind  their  way  to  Moscoav,  and  after  all  these 
wanderings,  the  far-travelled  skin  returns  again  to  New 
Archangel,  wliere,  cut  into  small  pieces  and  stamped  with  the 
coni[)any''s  mark,  it  serves  as  a  medium  of  exchange. 

The  skin  of  the  sea-lion  {Oiaria  Stellcri)  has  but  littlt,' 
value  in  the  fur  trade,  as  its  hair  is  short  and  coarse,  but  in 
many  other  respects  the  unwieldy  animal  is  of  considerable 
use  to  the  Aleiit.  Its  hide  serves  to  cover  his  baidar  ;  with 
the  entrails  he  makes  his  water-tight  kamleika,  a  wide,  hjng 
shirt  which  ]ie  puts  on  over  his  dress  to  protect  himself 
against  the  rain  or  tlie  sprciy  ;  the  thick  webs  of  its  flippers 
furnish  excellent  soles  for  his  boots,  and  the  bristles  of  its 
lip  iigure  as  ornaments  in  his  head-dress. 


'r;.C  St.'. I  ■  ■  -HI'. 


Bii  elouvc 
;f  ol)ji'eth 
'e  neitlu'i" 
(IV.  Tin," 
y  by  tin.' 
nassacro, 
ends  new 


omul  tlio 

^c'lita  ii!'(^ 

t  the  tea - 

all  til  esc 

to    New 
[  with  tliu 


but  littl(.> 
^e,  Init  ill 
isitleraljli' 
ar  ;  "with 
'ide,  loiii;' 
t  liiiusi'lf 
s  flipp(.'r.s 
les  of  its 


a 


BB5S!^PIP 


'  ''^^'  '•' 


:■  ■■";*    \ 


ii  I    i' 


»;■■    '!■■ 


» 


'",■         1: 


"^•^^^-s^s: 


'/     '^j,-  «y; 

W>^5- 

-  A 

■'       is).  — 

'^i^/yj-^y.//.*-^- 


WAI. Ill's     lllMl'.l^ 


rSS'**^.- 


:^=5M 


^i 


1 


^s>¥:t»-t> 


■'Zi^fr. 


anmux  .s  ;i 


toiwll       !l 


./ 


CliAPTER  XXVI. 


'iir:   i:sii|-i.MAr\. 


Mxt, 


11— Cliniati'    of    til.'    I 


u'f.ri(jiis  l!i(\v  inhiiMt — 'I'licii'  ]ili\  >-i(';il 
.\l'pcai'aiu't — -'I'lirir  Dros— Simw  Huts — The  Kayiik  or  tlio  liaidar — Iliiut  iiiii 
Apparatus  and  "Wi-apniis — lOmiiity  lu'twiTU  the  l\M[iiiiiiaux  aiul  tlif  IJcd  JiHliaii 
—The  •  l!l(j(»l_v  l''alls'- -(dias.M/t'tlic  lu'iiulccr  — I'.in!  ( ':if cliin'j;— \Vl!a!.'  llniitiiiLr 

1l-1i  tho   Seal  — 'J"lu'   Krcp   K'liituk — l!iar 


-\'ai'iou.s  Slratacem>- 


IJiMlVl    ■ 


tu  Pa 


llimiiiiijf — Walrus  lluniin^' — Awaklok  ami  IMyouk — 'I'lio  JOMjuimaux  iJoir — 
' i. lines  and  Spurts — Aiiyrl^oks — I\I(iral  Character — Srlt'-rcliaiicc — Intclli^eiifi  — 
Ili;iiiiik — (.'unmu'ri'ial  .l''aa;i'rniss  ot'  the  l-!--4uiinaux  'I'lic'ir  \'(irarity— Sl■al^on'■ 
it'i  Distress. 


0 


F  all  the  uncivilised  iialions  of  the  u'lobc  iii»iir  i'aiiL;'i'  over 


a  w: 


idor  space  than  tlie  I'siiiiimaiix.  wiio.se  variou.s  Iril 


)es 


cxli'iid   from   (Ireeiilaiid   ami    Lahrailor.  <'\cr  all  i! 


le   e(» 


l.sl; 


•  '{'  .\ictic  America,  to  the  Aleiilic  chain  and  tlie  extreme 
lua'lh-ea.steni  ^tuint  of  Asia.  Alany  are  independent,  others 
sulijcct  to  the  liiissian,  Danish,  or  JJritish  rule.  Tn  Dalliirs 
hay  and  Lancaster  Sound,  tln'V  accost  the  whale-lisher  ;  thev 
iii'''t  him  in  the  ley  Sea  licyoiid  l>ehrinn'\s  Straits;  ami  while 
dii'ii'   most    southei'lv  trihes  dwi'il    iis  low  as   tlie   latitude   of 


;51H 


Tin;    I'oLAIi    WOULD. 


ViciiiiJi,  others  sojoir'u  as  lii^'li  us  tlio  (Sotli  dcn-vcc  of  iKtrllici'ii 
latitude — and  probably  roam  even  still  lii<;-liL'r  on  the  still 
nudisc(»verod  coasts  beyond — a  nearness  to  the  pole  no  otlur 
race  isl\iio\vn  to  roiieh. 

The  old  Scandinavian  settlers  in  Greenland  expressed  tlieiv 
dislike  tor  them  in  the  contemptuous  iiium*  of  Sknielin^^'ers 
(screamers  or  wretches) :  the  seamen  of  the  Hudson's  Buy 
ships,  who  trade  annually  with  thii  natives  of  northern 
Labrador  and  the  8ava<4'e  Islands,  have  lony-  called  theia 
'  Seymos  '  or  '  Suckemos,'  names  evidently  derived  from  tlif 
dies  of  '  Seymo,'  or  ""  Teymo,'  with  which  they  |j;Teet  tlu^ 
arrival  of  the  ships  ;  they  speak  »»f  themselves  simply  as 
'  I  unit,'  or  men. 

W^ith  few  exceptions  the  whole  of  the  vast  rcf^aon  they 
inhabit  lies  bevond  the  extremest  limits  of  forest  y'rowth,  in 
the  most  destdate  and  inhospitable  countries  of  the  globe.  'J'lir 
roug'h  winds  of  the  Polar  Sea  aUnost  perpetually  blow  over 
their  bleak  domains,  and  thus  only  a  few  plants  of  the  hardiest 
nature — lichens  and  Uiosses,  g'rasses,  saxifrayas,  and  willows — 
are  able  to  subsist  there,  and  to  afford  a  scanty  sup[»ly  ef 
food  to  a  few  land  animals  and  birds. 

Ill  indeed  would  it  fare  with  the  Esquimanx,  if  they  wei-i- 
reduced  to  live  upon  the  ni<^\g'ardly  jn-oduce  of  the  soil ;  bat 
the  sea,  witJi  its  cetaceans  and  fishes,  amply  provides  tor 
their  wants.  Thus  they  are  never  found  at  any  consider- 
able distance  from  the  ocean,  and  they  line  a  consideraltlt' 
part  of  the  coasts  of  the  Arctic  seas  without  ever  visitiny  the 
interior. 

It  may  easily  be  supposed  that  a  race  Avliose  eastern 
brandies  have  for  several  centuries  been  under  the  influence 
of  the  Danes  and  En^-lish,  ^vhile  in  the  extreme  west  it  lias 
lono-  been  forced  to  submit  to  Russian  tyranny,  and  wlie.so 
central  and  northern  tribes  rarely  come  into  contact  with 
Europeans — nnist  sbow  some  variety  in  its  manners  and  niedc 
of  life,  and  that  the  same  description  is  not  applicable  in  all 
points  to  the  disciples  of  the  Moravian  brothers  in  Labrad(»r  er 
CJreenland,  to  the  Greek-Catholic  Aleiits,  and  to  the  far  more 
numerous  heathen  Esquimaux  of  continental  America,  or  of 
the  vast  archipelao-o  beyond  its  northern  shores.  Upon  tlif 
whole,  however,  it    is  euviuus  to  obsi'rve  how  exaetly,  amidst 


i:S(illMALX    TlJllJK.S. 


;U!) 


llOl'lllt'fll 

the  still 
nti  ollit  r 

sso<l  llit'iv 
•acUnj^'crs 
iou's  B;i_v 

IlOVtlltTll 

Ik'd  tlu'iii 

fn)in  the 

UTOot  tho 

simply  iis 

o-ioii  IIh'v 
^■rowtli,  ill 
lolje.    Thr 

blow  owv 
10  hiircliost 
L  willows — 

supply  ol' 

they  wtMv 
soil ;  h'<il 

)vid(>s  tor 
consitler- 

iisidonible 

isitiug  the 

se  o.istorii 
influcuoe 

vest  it  has 
lud  whose 

iitact  witli 
mid  int^l'' 
able  in  '.ill 
abnidor  or 
le  fill'  luon' 
•rica,  or  ct' 
Upon  thf 
llv,  amidst 


;ill  diversity  <»!'  timoand  jdaee,  tlies<!  people   liave  preserved 
unaltered  their  habits   and  manners.     The  broad,  flat  I'aee, 
widest  jnst   below  the   vyi'!^^  the  t'orcdioad  f^enerally  narrow 
;iii(l  tajicrino-  upwards;  the  eyes  narrow  and  more  oi-  loss  ob- 
lique; all  indicate  a  mon^'ol  or  tartar  ty])e,  dill'erino-  u-n^atly 
iVoiii   the    features  of  the  conterminous  Ked    Indian  trilx's. 
Tlirii-  eouiplexion,  when   relieved  from  suKtke  and  dirt,  also 
aiiproaidies  more  nearly  to  white   than  that  of  their  copprr- 
cdloiu'cd  neighbours.     INIost    of  tlu^   )nen  are   rather    under 
till'  laediuni  Eno-lish  size,  but  they  cannot  be  said  to  l)e  a. 
(hvarlish  race.       Thus   Simpson  saw   in  Camden  JJay   three 
llsi|niinaux  who  measured  from   live  feet  ten  inches  to  six 
f.i't  ;    and    amono'  the  natives   of  Smith  Strait,    Kane  met 
with    one    a    foot    taller  than  himself.     The    females,    how- 
ever, are   all  eomparativ<dy  short.     The   Es(piiinaux   are  all 
leiiiarkably  l»road  shouldered,  and  thouo-h  their  muscles  are 
not  so  firm  as  those  of  the  European   seamen,  yet  they  sur- 
|iiiss  in  bodily  stren<»'th  all  the  other  natives  ()f  Ameriea.      In 
lioth  sexes  tlie  hands  and  feet  are  remarkal)ly  small  and  well 
roriiied.     From  exercise  in  huntino'  the   seal  and  walrus,  tlu? 
muscles   of  the   arms  and  back  are  much  develo})ed   in  the 
iiieii,  who   are  iiKtreover  powerful  wrestlei's.     When   yount;' 
the  Msquiiiiaux  looks  cheerful  and  <4'(»od  huiuoured,  and  the 
ti'iiiales   exhibit,   wdien   lauo'hino-,  a   set  of  very  white   teeth. 
Coidd  they  l>e   indmH'd  to  wash  their  faces,  many  of  tlu'se 
sa\aL;e    beauties   would   be  found   to    possess   a  com|>lexi(ui 
scarcely  a  shade  darker   than  that  of  a  deep  brunette ;  but 
tlioueh   disinclined  to   ablutions,   for  Avhicli  the   severitv  of 
llieir  eUmato   mav   serve   as  an   excuse,  thev   are   far    from 
Jieo-lectino-  the  arts  of  the  toilette. 

Unlike  the  Hare  Indian  and  Do"'  liib  fenuiles,  in  whom 
tlio  hard  rule  of  their  lords  and  masters  has  obliterated  every 
trace  of  female  vanity,  the  Esquimaux  women  ta'  ;.vfully  ]>lait 
tlioir  straiii,-ht,  black,  aiul  j^'lossy  hair:  and  hence  we  may 
infer  tliat  o-reater  deference  is  paid  to  them  by  the  men., 
Tliey  alsi»  o-eiierally  tattoo  their  chin,  forehead,  and  cheeks, 
not.  however,  as  in  the  South  S»'a  Islands,  with  elaborate 
jiatterns,  but  with  a  few  simple  lines,  which  have  a  not  un- 
pleasiuo-  t'ftV'ct. 

Troni  r>e1iriuL;"s  Straits  eastward,  as  far  as  the  ^laeKcn/ie. 


;j-io 


Tin:    I'OLAII    \V()|{|,I). 


tho  iiialcs  picroc  tlio  lowor  Wyi  near  oncli  iiii<4l(^  of  ilio  iiioiilli. 
and  fill  the  apcriiuvs  with  labrets  ofbhic  or  ^Tcon  <jiiiirt/,  (.1 
(>r  ivoiy  rcsemhlino;  buttons.  JVriiny  also  picrt'c  Ihf  s('|ttiiin 
ol"  tho  nose,  and  insert  a  deiitiiliuni  sh<'ll  or  ivory  nt'cdlc. 
fiikc  the  Jted  Indians,  they  are  t'ond  ot'bi-iids,  but  their  u\i<>\ 
eonnuon  orniinient  consists  in  strin-i's  of  teeth  f>f  the  fn.\. 
wolf,  (»r  musk-ox — sometimes  many  lunidreds  in  numlie)' 
which  iire  either  attaehed  to  the  lower  part  of  the  jacket,  ni 
fastened  as  a  Ijelt  round  the  waist. 

Their  dress  is  admirably  adapted  to  the  severity  of  llieir 
climate.  With  their  two  pair  of  breeches  nnide  of  reindeer 
or  seal-skin,  the  outer  one  having'  the  hair  outside  and  the 
inner  one  next  llie  l)ody,  and  their  two  jackets — of  which  flie 
U])])er  one  is  }»rovided  with  a  o-reat  hood;  with  their  water- 
ti^Iit  seal-skin  boots,  lined  with  the  downy  skins  of  birds, 
and  their  enormous  ^'loves,  they  bid  deliance  to  the  severest 
cold,  and,  even  in  the  hardest  weather,  pursue  their  occupii- 
tions  in  the  open  air  whenever  the  moon  is  in  the  sky,  ny 
during-  tlie  (h»ul)tful  meridian  twilie-ht.  The  women  aiv 
perfect  in  the  artof  makin»4-  water-tiL?ht  shirts,  or'  kandeikas." 
of  the  entrails  of  the  seal  or  walrus,  whi(di  in  summer  serve 
to  replace  their  heavy  skin  jaclcets.  They  also  st.'w  tliiif 
boots  so  ti^'lit,  that  not  the  slie-htest  wet  can  penetrate,  and 
with  a  neatness  of  which  the  best  shoenialcer  in  Eurejio 
mie-jit  be  proud.  The  dress  of  the  two  sexes  is  much  alike, 
the  outer  jacket  having-  a  pointed  slcirt  before  and  behind, 
but  that  of  the  females  is  a  little  lon^-er.  The  women  als> 
wear  larger  hoods,  in  which  they  carry  their  chihlren  ;  and 
sometimes  (as  in  Labrador)  the  inner  boot  has  in  front  ;i 
lone',  pointed  fhq),  to  answer  the  same  purpose. 

The  Esquimaux  are  equally  expert  in  tho  construction  el' 
their  huts.  As  soon  as  the  lenL;'thonino'  days  induce  tlie 
tribes  about  Cape  Bathurst  and  the  jn(juth  of  the  Macktnizio 
to  move  seaward  on  the  ice  to  the  seal  hunt,  a  marvcdlous 
system  of  architecture  comes  into  use,  unknown  anionic"  any 
other  American  nations.  The  fine  pure  snow  has  by  thai 
time  acquired,  under  the  action  of  the  winds  and  frosts. 
sutHcient  coherence  to  form  an  admiralde  lie-ht  buildiiij^' 
material,  which  the  !'iS(|ninianx  skilfully  employ  for  1li<' 
erection  id'  most  cond'oidable  donie-shapeil  houses.      A  ciivle 


KS(il"l-MU.\    IIIT.S. 


y-ji 


IllOlltll. 
llivt/,  <'!■ 

Ki>|it  iini 
I'ir  iii">t 

tilt'     InN. 

iuiil)t'r 
ickcl,  <ir 

of  tlirir 

iiiul  ill'' 
A\'u-\\  111" 
\\'  watfi'- 

of  1)U''1>. 

_>  scvd't'^t 
V  (>(.'(•  I  unl- 
it' sky,  "V 
)nieii    iivi' 
iiinloikii^- 
intT  serve 
sew   tlieif 
[trato,  iuiil 

ncli  alike, 
(1  iH'liind. 
)im'n  ;il>^'» 
Ir.'u;  mill 
n   trout  ;i 


Is  tirst  i raced  oil  tlit3  ssiuootli  surfiicc  tif  the  snow,  iiicl  slabs 
('.)•  raisiu^Mlie  walla  out  tVoiu  witliiii,  so  iis  to  rleai' n  s|tac'0 
iluwii  to  tin:  ice,  wliieli  is  1o  j'oriii  tlu'  floor  of  the  (IwcIHml!', 
:iii(l  whose  evenness  was  previously  ascertained  l)y  |>rol»inn\ 
The  shihs  for  the  dome  are  cut  from  some  neiwhljoririni^'sjiot. 
The  creviet's  l»etween  the  slahs  are  [dupned  up,  and  the 
M';lliis  closed,  hy  tlirowiuLi"  a  few  sliovelfuls  of  loose  siioW 
ever  the  j'abric.  Two  men  e-ciierally  avoi-K'  lo^cther.  and 
\\ln'ii  the  ilome  is  completed,  the  oiu;  within  cuts  a  low  door, 
i!i:d  creeps  out.  The  walls  beiiii;'  only  three  or  f<>ur  inches 
tliiclc.  admit  a  very  aL!;reeal)leli;4'ht,  which  serves  foi'  ordinary 
liiirpi'ses  ;  if  more  is  re(]uired,  a  window  of  trans[iarent  ice  is 
1.     The  proiier  thitdvuess  of  the  walls   is   of  some 


iiilroducet 


lllljio 


riance  ;  one  of  a  few  inches  excludes  the  wind,  yet  kei'ps 
the  damp  so  as  to  jnvvent  drippiuL;:  from  the  interior. 
The  runiiture  of  this  crystal  hut  is  also  formed  of  snow  (the 
M;its,  the  table,  the  sleeping'-plaees),  and  when  covered  with 
skins  is  very  c(»mfortablo.  By  means  of  ante-clunubers  and 
l"ai]ii's,  with  the  opening-  turned  to  leeward,  Avarmth  is 
iii>iuvd,  and  social  intercourse  facilitated  bv  contiy-uous 
laiil.JiiiL;-,  doors  ttf  comnnniication,  and  covered  passag'os. 
liy  constant  practice,  the  Esquimaux  can  raise  such  huts 
;iliiin>t  as  quickly  as  we  cottld  pitch  a  tent.  AVlien  M'Clintoidv 
I'i'i'  :i  lew  nails  hired  four  Es(piimaux  to  build  a  hut  ibr  his 
}iarty.  they  completed  it  in  an  hour,  thouyli  it  was  8  ft.  in 
(liaiacter,  and  5^  ft.  liiyh. 

ill  spit(^  of  its  frag'ile  materials,  this  snow-house  is  durable, 
f '!•  tlie  vvind  has  little  effect  on  its  domo-lilce  form,  and  it 


ivsists  the  thaw  tuitil  th(»  sun 


acq 


uires  a   verv  considerable 


piAver.     Of  c(»urse  a  strong'  fire  coidd  not   pos-illy  he  mad* 
witliiii.   l)ut   such   is    not   needed  by  the    Esquimaux.     'I'lu 

tr 


ll-o 


1  lamp  suffices  to  dry  his  wet  clothes  and  boots  when 
returns  from  hunting:  and  the  crowding  of  thi'  inmates 
''iiders  a  suHiciently  high  temperature  to  keep  him  warm. 
Tug  also  a  decided  predilection  for  raw^  flesh  and  fat,  he 

ivijiiires  no  great  expenditure   of  fuel    to  cook   his   dinner. 

Tlic  lower  part  of  his  dwelling-  being  under  the  surface  of 


I'll', 

ill! 


til. 


-Ill) 


w,  lik<'wise  promotes  its  waru'th. 
I'll!  of  wTiatever  materials  the  hut  of  the  Esquiinatix  may 
f'Mislructed  — (if  snow,  as  i  hiive  just  described,  or,  as  is 


•,i>-2 


TllK    I'OLAIi    UolilJJ. 


froqnciitly  tlic  (•use,  of  stones,  oroartli,  or  drif't-woofl — t'V(.'r|- 
wlicrc,  i'miM  iJi'lirlii^^-'H  Sti'iiits  to  Smith  Sound,  it    is  (Mjniiily 
well    inl;i|iti'tl   t«>   the  fliniiitf  ;ni(l   to   circunistiiuccs.     'riiii> 
uhcn    i>v.  Scoi't'.shy  hin(h'<l  in   1^-2  on  Iht:  ciisttTii  const,  nt 
(ii'ccnhmd,    ho   di-sfovcrcd   Homo  dosi'i'tcd    l']s(|uimiUi.\   huts. 
wliicli  ^^avt-'  [H'oof  both  of  the  .sovt'rity  of  Iht,'  (•liiiiutc,  iiinl  <•! 
the  iii;4'i'UHity  evinced  in  eoiinti'ractint;'  its  rii,'<Mn\s.     A  hurl- 
/ontiil  tunnel  ahout  lifYeen  I'oet  hmy",  and  ho  low  as  to  I'cii.I'r 
it  necessary  to  civep  throuj^h  on  hands  and  feet,  opens  wiih 
oui'  end  to  the  soutii,  and   leads  throu^'h  the  other  into  tin 
interior  <d'  the  hut.     This  rises  hut   little  al>o\e  the  surln'r 
of  the  earth,  and,  as  it  is  pMierallv  over;j;'ro\vn  with  muss  <>!■ 
<,a'ass,  is  scan'ely  to  Ije  distin^-uished  from  tlie  nei«4'lihom'iiiu 
soil.     The  tl(»or  of  the  tunnel  is  lre((uently  on  a.  h-vel  with 
that  of  the  hut,  l)ut  often  also  it  is  ]na(Uj  to  shint  dowmvarls 
and  ui)wards,  so  that  the  coMer,  and  consequently  heavier, 
air  without  is  still  more  elfeetually  ke[)t  oil'  trom  the  wai'incr 
air  v.ithiu  ;  and  tinis  the    l']s(]uimau\',  without  ever  liuviiii 
studied  physics,  make   a   practical  use  of  one  of  its  fiiiiia- 
moutal  laws,     liut   their   most    ingenious   invention    is   un- 
questionahly  tliat  of  the  ono-soatod  boat,  the  'kayak,'  or  tlir 
'  baidar.*     A  lin'ht,  lony',  and  narrow  frame  of  wood,  or  xml 
or  walrus  bone,  is  covered  water-ti^ht  with  seal-skin,  Iravinu 
but  one  circular  hole  in  the  middle.     In  this  the  Es(]uiai!Uix 
sits  with  outstretched  I(>j4s,  and  binds  a  sack  (which  is  iurin.il 
of  the  intestines  of  the  whale,  or  of  tlie  skins  of  yoini^'  seal-. 
and  fits  in  the  opening-)  so  tig-htly  round  his   middle,  tliat 
even  in  a  heavy  sea  not  a  drop  of  water  can  penetrate  int" 
the  boat.     Striking*  with  his  light  oar  (which   is  padtUcil  at 
each  extreniitv)  alternatelv  to  the  rin'lit  and  to  the  lei't.  liis 
spear  or  harpoon  before  him,  and  maintaining  his  equilihriuia 
■with  all  the  dexterity  of  a  I'ope-dancev,  he  flies  lilce  an  an.w 
over  the  water  ;  and  should  a  wave  npsethim,  he  knows  Imv, 
to  right  himself  by  the  action  of  the  paddle.     The  *  ouniiak. 
or  women's  boat,  likewise  consists  of  a  franiewc>rk  covonil 
■with  seal-skins,  and  is  roomy  enough  to  hold  ten  or  twolvi' 
pteople,  Avitli   benches  for  the  -women  who  row  or  paddK'. 
The  mast  supports  a  triangular  sail  made  of  the  entrails  <'i 
seals,   and  easily  distended  by  the  Avind.     The  men  wcu]! 
consider  it  beneath    their  dignity  to  row  in  one  of  ti)'.'^' 


|i  I 


KSi^U  l.MAIA     W  !•:  \rn.\S. 


32d 


I'S.      'lliu> 

iiux  lints. 

it»'.  '.iinl  <'t' 

A  li'ii'i- 

1    to  Vt'U«l'V 

opens  with 
L'V  iutu  tin 
lh(>  surr.i'''' 
111  iii(i>>  "1' 
i.-'libouviu'j, 
,  level  with 
downwards 
tlv  heavi'V. 
the  wiirinrr 
I'ver  liavln.;' 
f  its  Inii'la- 
ition   is   uu- 
•i\lc,'  nr  tll«' 
.-(xul,  ov  ^^i':il 
cin,  l-'aviii'^' 
Ksquiiuiuix 
■li  is  iV>riii''i-l 
vouu'i  s^'iiIn 
inuiai.-,  Ili'.t' 
■netvat''  lui" 
s  |»iul^U>'^l  at 
Wvv  M't.  lu> 
se(iuilil'i'i">'^ 
ilce  an  avv'-v 
e  IcncNVS  lu'V.- 
liL'  '  (K'lniaK- 
Ivovlc  eovciv'l 
loll  or  twvlv-' 
l,v   or  paiVli''' 
IXQ  entvaiU"^ 
men  W"^^''^ 
lone  of  tli'-' 


c,  II  nil  (I  IS  Uoiils  ;   tliev  Icavf  1  his  l.ilioiir  cut  irrlv  to  tin'  woummi, 

wilu.  to  t  Ih>  tlli't  ofil   liniUotollolH  Soll^'.  slow!  V  [il'o|(i'|  tin'  0(il||i;|lv 

IJii'.Mi^li  tin'  WiitiT.  ,(inl;i'iii;4-  of  lorci;;')!  eustoms  ]i\  their 
iiw  II.  tin'  l']s(|niii)aii.\  hot  wi'i'ii  1 1n'  M;iclo'ir/.io  und  ( '(ip|ii'i'iiiiiu; 
rivi'i's  iiiihIc  the  stran^'c  niisliiKi',  ms  Sir  .lohii  l.'ichardsoii 
nhiti's,  ol' sii|i[iosiii;^'  that  tho  Miinljsli  siiiiors  whom  they  saw 
iMwin;^'  in  eoni[»any  were  wonn-ti.  <  )in'  of  them  even  iislicd 
wlrtlii'r  all  white  feinales  jnid  hejirds. 

The  \ve;ijM>iis  oi"  the  IOs((iiinia ii.\,  and  their  various  lishiii;^ 
,Mi'l  Imiitiii^'  iinpleineiits,  likewise  show  ^'reat  iiiu'ciiiiity  and 
>kill.  'I'heii'oars  ai'c  tasti'fiilly  inlaid  wit  h  WiiliMis  t-'el  h  ;  t  In-y 
have  S('\'eral  kinds  ol's[)ear,s  or  dai'ts,  adajited  t<i  the  sl/.e  of 


IIP'  \ ai'mi 


IS  animals  wliieh  thevhunt;  and  their  elastic  1 


tows. 


stvnii^i'ly  houinl  with  string's  of  seal-;4'nt,  drive  a  six-foot  ari'ow 
with  uiu'rriiin"  certainty  to  a  distant  niarlc.  To  hriii;.;"  down  a 
liMnvi'  animal, the  shaft  is  armed  with  a  sharji  Hint,  or  a  pointed 
linjie;  if  intended  to  strike  a  hird,  it  is  smaller,  and  hhinted. 
I'll''  harpoons  and  lances  nsed  in  killiiej,'  whales  or  seals 
have  Ioul;'  sliails  <.)!' W(.tod  or  of  the  narvlial's  toot^\  and  the 
havb(^(l  point  is  so  constriu-ted  that,  \\],.)\  the  blow  takes 
'■tl'"!'!,  it  is  left  stickinLj  in  the  body  of  the  animal,  while  tho 
siiitft  attached  to  it  liv  a  strinLi'  is  dii-en^au'ed  from  the  socket. 


Ijereiiies   a   buoy   of  wood. 


d-sL 


<nis. 


hi 


own    n[)  lik( 


hlailtlcrs,   are  likewise  nsed  as  buoys  for  the  whalospears, 

hi  ill '4-  adroitly   stripped   from    the    animal    so    that    all    tin' 

iiatund  apertures  are  easily  made  air-ti^'ht. 

Willi  eijual  industry  and  skill  the  Es(piimanx  put  to  uso 

every  part  of  the  land  and  niiirine  animals  which  tlu^y 

Knives,  spear-points,  and  tish-h(joks  are  nnnloof  the 

f  the  deer.     The  ribs  of  the  whale  are  used 


nil. 


ciiasi 


h 


wuH  a 


ml  1 


lones  o 


in.  rodlii!;;'  huts,  or  in  the  construction  of  sled^'cs,  where 
ilrift-tiiuber  is  scarce.  Stroni^'  coi'd  is  made  tVoni  strips  of 
~"a]-s]{iii  hide,  and  the  sinews  of  musk-oxen  and  deer  fiuMiish 
li(i\v-slriin4's  or  cord  to  nnike  lu'ts  or  snares.  In  detanlt  oi' 
'h;iti-v,-eud,  the  b(»nes  of  the  Avhale  are  employed  for  tln^ 
^^•uustrurtidii  of  their  sledj^t^s,  in  pieces  titted  to  eaidi  other 
with  neatness,  and  firmly  sewed  to^'ether. 

l)uriu<4'  ■^b*'  lon<:,'  confinement  to  their  huts  or  '  ii^doos,'  in  the 
'lark  vinter  months,  tlie  men  execnte  sonu'  vmy  fair  liij^ures 
1"  hdiu,"  and  in  vralrus  or  tV»ssil  ivorv  ;  besides  malcincj  llsh- 


;!-'4 


Till:  r<»i,.\i:   woKi.n. 


hooks,  knifc'-liaiidlcs,  und  otlicr  instrnmonts  neatly  of  tlic-: 
nlatorial^    or  ofiucial  or  v.'ood. 

Thus  in  all  those  respects  the  Esquimaux  are  as  superior  td 
the  lied  Indians  as  they  are  in  streii^'th  and  personal  eouraL;V; 
and  yet  no  Xorwei^ian  can  more  utterly  despisi;  the  lilthy  L;i]i}i. 
and  ]io  orthodox  jVEussulnian  look  d(>\vn  Avith  L;'reater  cin- 
tempt  upon  a  '^  ^hiour,' than  the  L(»ueheux  or  Chepewavim 
upon  the  Escpuuiaux,  v.'ho  in  his  eyes  is  no  Letter  than  ;i 
brute,  and  whom  he  approaches  only  to  kill. 

In  his  '  VoyaL'-e  to  the  Coppermine  River '  Ilearne  relatois  u 
dreadful  instance  of  this  bloodthirsty  hatred.  The  Indiaus 
who  accom])anied  him  havinu'  heard  that  some  Esquimaux 
had  erected  their  s\immer  huts  near  the  mouth  of  that  river. 
were  at  once  sci/.ed  with  a  tii'-er-like  fury.  Hearne,  the  eiilv 
Tiiuropeaii  of  tlu.'  p;ii'ty,  had  not  the  power  to  restrain  tliia!. 
aud  he  niiyht  as  wei,  have  attempted  to  touch  the  heart  nf 
an  ice-l)ear  as  to  move  the  murderous  band  to  pity.  Av 
craflilv  and  noi.stdessly  as  serpents  they  drew  ni^li,  \[vA 
when  the  midnight  sun  veru'ed  on  the  hori/on,  with  u 
dreadful  yell  they  burst  on  the  huts  of  their  unsuspeelin-' 
victims.  Not  one  of  Uiem  escaped,  iind  the  monsters  deliL;'liti'  1 
to  prolong'  the  misery  of  their  death-strugu'le  by  repeated 
wounds.  An  old  woman  had  both  her  eyes  torn  out  bcfuiv 
she  received  the  mortal  blow.  A  young-  giid  tied  to  lleai'iL' 
for  protection,  who  used  every  eilbrt  to  save  her,  but  in  vain, 

In  1821  some  human  skulls  lying  on  the  spot  still  boiv 
testimony  to  this  cruel  sltiughter,  and  the  name  of  tli' 
'  Bloody  Falls,"  given  by  Ilearne  to  the  scene  of  the  massaciv. 
will  convey  its  nu-niory  to  di.jtant  ages. 

No  wonder  that  (he  hate  of  the  l']s(|uimaux  is  no  1'-- 
intense,  and  that  tliey  aho  pur^uie  the  Indians,  whercv.!' 
they  •  an.  with  thc'r  spears  and  arrows,  like  wild  be;ist<. 

"Year  after  year.'  says  Sir  Joliu  liichardson,  "sees  tli 
Es(|uinianx  on  the  polar  coast  of  America  occupied  in  i 
uniform  circle  of  jjursuits.  AVhen  the  rivers  open  in  si'vii... 
they  p:"oceed  to  the  I'apids  and  falls  t(»  spear  the  salni";;. 
■which  at  that  season  come  swimming  stream  u[)wavd^.  At 
the  same  time,  or  earlier  in  more  southern  localities.  tli>',v 
hunt  the  reindeer,  which  dr(^])  their  young  on  the  eoiists  ;i!"l 
islands    while   the    snow  is  only   partially    melted.      Wh'''' 


supcviov  t(i 
ialc'Ourat;v; 
iiltliy  U[\'\'. 
jroattT  cdu- 
Jliepowa  Villi 
■tter   tliaii  n 

I'ue  rcluios  u 
riie   luiliaiis 

EsqiuHuuix 
of  tliiit  riwr. 
nit',  llio  oiilv 
>>traiu  Uii-a!- 

the  liL'avl  '  ; 

to  pity.     A- 

w    lULi'li.   a'.:! 

izon,    ^vitli  ii 

unsuspcL-tiiv: 
iters  delii^Ut.l 
>  In'  repeatctl 

>rii  out  I'L-foiv 
lo.l  to  lloariL' 
Ir,  Imt  in  vai'i. 

pot  still  boiv 

lllllDO    of  ''  ' 

the  luiissaci'o. 

,vix;  is  110  K--^ 
tni:-,  ^vllerov■.;• 
[la  b(>ast<. 

Koli,  '  ^''''^  ^ 
Lccii[iit''l  1"  ■' 
Licii  in  si'i'i'--- 
Ir  tlx'  sahu'"'.. 
n[»wav(l-^.  -^ 
Localities,  tky 
1  the  coasts  iiM 


KSQUIMAl'X    \Vir.\l,i:    lir.N'TS.  .3.',: 

i]h'  opi'ii   Country  affoi'ds   the  liuntsinan  no  opportunity  of 


'h 


ipjiroaelunL;'  his  i^'anie  nnpere<:'iV( 


.1,  (1 


('( 


'Pi 


>ns  iirc  (11 


III  the 


siiowy  ravines  and  superlii'ially  coveretl  willi  siiow-tal-irts. 
Til!'  Avind  soon  effaces  the  traces  of  the  human  liamh  and 
tlius  many  reindeer  are  snared.' 

ill  suniiner  the  reindeer  are  killeil  partly  l>y  drivinu'  tlioni 
I'lMiit  islands  or  narrow  necks  of  laud  into  tlie  sea.  and  then 
siicarinii'  them  from  tlieir  Icavaks  ;  and  viartlv  hv  sh(^otii!<'- 
ilii'iu  tVom  bi'hind  hea[)S  of  stones  riiised  for  the  purpose  <it' 
watcliiHL;"  Ihem,  and  imitatini^  their  ptnadiar  hollow  or  •^•runt. 
Aiiioiin'  the  various  artitices  ^vhil•h  ihey  employ  for  this 
|i;rrin»se,  one  of  tlie  most  in^'eiiious  consists  in  two  ukmi 
Avalkiii'4"  direcllv  I'ront  the  deer  thev  wish  lo  hill,  v.lien  Die 


an 


iuial  almost  alwavs  follows  tlnni 


A 


AS  soon  as  t hev  arrive 


ih 


a   laru'''  sio 


ne,  one  of  llie   men   hides  hehind   it:  with   hi? 


•  i",V, 


while  tlie  olhor,  cont inuin:>'  to  walk   on,  stton  lea*ls  tin 


(Ifcr  wiihin  rann'i^  of  his  companioirs  arrows. 
The  multitudes  of  swans,   duclcs,  and   ^-cese  resort inij^  i 


o 


till'  iiior 


is'^es  < 


if  tl 


le  n(»rthern  coasts   io  hri 


d.  lil. 


owise   an 


I 


ill  >n[i[ilyin^-  the  Esquiuiau.v  with  I'ood  during-  their  short 
Ijiit  busy  summer  of  two  months.  l\»r  their  d.-struction  a 
vTv  iiiu'ciiious  inst I'ument  has  ln'cii  invontt'd.  Six  ..r  «  i'dit 
^luall  halls  niadi'  of  -walrus-tooth  and  pierced  in  the  middle 
are  separately  attached  to  as  many  Ihou^'S  of  animal  sinew, 
wliii-li  nvo  tied  to^'t^ther  at  thi>  op])osite  eml.  WIkmi  cast 
into  the  air  the  diver;i'iiiLi'  balls  desei'ibi>  circles — like  the 
<pokes  of  a  wheel — and  woe  to  the  unfortunate  binl  that 
oniies  within  their  reaidi. 
On  the  coasts  fre(iiKnte<l  hy  whales,  the  month  of  Anfrust 
li  Voted  to  the  ])ir.-suit  of  these  animals;  a  suceessful  eliaso 


i>  ( 


^■:i>i 


iriiii;'  a  comfortable  winter  to  a  whol   (omiiiuiiifv 


lieir 


(-■a|iinre  requires  an   association  of  labour:   heii<-e  aloii^^  tin.' 
the  I'olar  Sea,  the    l-].-([uiiiiau.\  unite  their  hnts  into 


riiii^i  ^   III 


\!lla'. 


W 


res,  t'or  whose  site  a    i>old   point   of  coast    is  Li'.'iierally 
■11.  where  the  water  is  d.'ep  enou^'h  to  M"at  a  wiiale. 


It'll  line  ot  these  hiii^'i 


ert^itures  is  seen  1  vinu'  < ni  the  water, 


'i  '/■-[ 


I  kayaks  or  more  eau<iously  [taddle  up  astern  of  him.  till 


llii"'  the  rest,  conie.s  ch^j^o  to  him  on  one 


ii  'lu^-le  canoe.  prece< 

•I'lirtcr,  so  as   to  eiial)le  tic  m  ui  to  drive  the  spear  into  the 

auiiiial  with   all   the    loi'ee   of  l>oth   ;irms.      This    spear  lias  a 


S-iO 


Tin;  ror.Ai!  wniii.o. 


\uu>j;  \]\io  (if  tlnoiL;'  and  au  iullatcil  scal-slciu  attacliOfl  (n  it, 
The  sii'icki'ii  wlialc  iiniiicdiiitely  dives  ;  bdt  wlion  lie  rt'a]^])i;ii. 
al'ti'V  some  tinu'.  all  llic  ('itiidcs  a'jaiii  ]>addl<'  toAvards  lijn,. 
Sdiiic  wavniiijx  Ix'inu'  <i'ivfii  \>y  the  sciil-skiii  Imoy  lleatiiiL;'  nn 
Ihc  sni't;i'-t'.  I'iaeli  Juan  beinjj;'  i'liniislicd  lil\'<' llif  (ivsl,  llic 
ropoiil  till'  l)l(»\v  as  olti'ii  as  tlicv  tiiid  an  (•[)j)ov(uni1y.  ti'i 
jx'vliaps  cVt'TV  line  lias  Itccn  thus  ciiijiloycd.  Ai'lt'i'  cliasin: 
liiin  ill  lliis  uianncr  somotinics  fur  lialt'a  day.  lie  is  at  It'iiu'ii 
so  wcarioil  liy  tlic  vi'sistanco  of  llio  l)uoys  and  cxliauslrd  li, 
loss  of  lilimd  as  1<>  1)0  ohlin'cd  t(t  vise  move  and  iiioiv  often  \ 
t\\Q  siufaee,  and  is  (iiially  killed  and  to\ve(l  ashoi-e. 

Tliou^ii  in  many  parts  seals  are  eaiiL;-Iit  at  e\ery  seasciii  . 
the  year,  vet  the  u'reat  hunt  takes  piaee  in  s^iriiiLi',  \vlieii  li' 
j)liiy  in  the  open  lanes  near  tlio  coasts,  or  come  (Mil  on  ■] 
ice  to  l)ask  in  the  snn.  In  spite  of  Iheir  wariness,  tliev  ;ij. 
]io  match  for  the  Estpiimaux,  who  have  careliilly  slinii' 
all  I  heir  hnl.iiis  from  infancy.  Souietiiiies  tlu'  Ininter  ;ij- 
proa(dies  them  l»y  imitatiiiL;'  their  forms  and  motions  .- 
perf(H'tly  that  the  po()r  animals  are  not  undeceivecl  until  ci) 


of  tl 


lem   is  stnirk   Aviih    his  lance;    or  else    b\'   m 


cans  et 


Avhite  screen    pushed  forward  on   a    slede'(>,  the  hunter 
within  ran^'e  aiM 


cnilli 


I  iiicks  out  the  best  conditioned  of  th 


e  u;i;i' 


nor 


As  the  season  draws  iiear  midsummer,  the  seals  are  i 
iipi»roacluible  ;  their  ey(.'s  l)ein;L;"  so  eoiio-ested  by  theokirc.: 
the  sun.  that  they  are  sound  imes  nearly  blind,  in  wiut' r 
they  are  assauUeil  \vhile  workine-  at  their  breathing'-boles,  I'l 
wdieu  coiiiim.;'  up  foi'  respii'aliwii. 

if  an  l]s(piimaiix  has  any  reason  to  su]»pose  that  a  sciil  i- 
bnsy  g-nawiiiLi'  beneath  the  ice.  he  innnediately  attache-  liii;.- 
self  to  the  ])lace,  and  seldom  leaves  it,  even   in   the  scvciv-: 
frost,  till  he  has  snccet.'ded   in  killiuL;'  the  animal.      I'ertl:'- 
purpose  he  tirst  l)uilds  a  snow-v.all  about  four  feet  in  IicIl:]:'. 
to  sludter  him  iVeni  the  wind,  and  seatiiiL;-  himself  nndei  'i 
lee  of  it.  deposits  his  s]»eai's.    lines,  and  other   inipicnu'iu- 
iipoii    sevei-al    ]ittl(>   forked   sticks    inserted   into  the  siiew.  ■ 
order  to  prevent   the   smallest  n<use  bein^'  made   in   iiievii:.' 
them  when  wanted.      lint  the  most  curious  precaut  ion  coiism" 
in  tying' his  own  knees  together  with  a  thong  so  securely  :!> '•' 
prevent  any  rustling  of  Ins  (dothes.  Avhicdi   miu'lit  otlicrwi- 
aliii'm    the   animal.      In   this  sit  nat  ion   a   man    will  sit  (|ni''tl' 


SKAL    lll'NT; 


;ii: 


?llG(l  U>  it, 

■mhU  iiitii. 
l();>tinu'  « 11 

(ivst.   I  hi'; 
t  unit  v.   i;  ; 

("1-  cli-.i^iii.' 

S  ill  Ifll'ilii 
li'.iustrtl  !■> 
ilV  dttrll  i 

•V  si';isii!i  '  '■ 
,  wlirii  ill' 

out  nil  ;: 
■ss,  tlu'V  ai' 
illy   stuilit! 

hunliM-  ;i!  - 

mntim'iS 
fd  luilil  « ' 

iiH'iins  «'! 
ant<T  CI  111!'  • 

of  the  Ir.iU'l. 
Is   arc  iiiov" 

till'  glare  1 1 

In  Aviuti'V 

iiiij,--lioles,  I'l' 

li;it  a  soul  i- 
Itacli'-  liii." 

llu'    SfViMV-- 

il.      i'"rtl:'- 
■  t  ill  lifii;' 
■If  UM<l«'i'  ''•' 

iuiplriui'l.'.- 
lu>    SlinW.   ' 
.     ill     llloVU'.' 

ilioii  coii^iivt^ 
<i-cun'ly  !i>t" 

.■lit    (.tlirrW!-' 

Ill  sit  <iiii'^^l'' 


si.uii'tiiiKS  lor  Imurs  to^'t'tlii'r,  attciil  ivd  v  listriiiiiL;'  to  any  nnis(> 
jiiiidt'  l»_v  tilt'  seal,  and  soiiiotiiiics  usiii'.;"  the  '  k<M']»-kultnk  ' 
in  iinlcr  to  ascertain  uhctlicr  the  animal  is  si  ill  at  worlc 
Ih'ldw.  This  sinipl'.!  little  iHstrnnieiil  -whicli  atl'ni'ds  annthev 
strikiiiL;'  jirool'di'  I'lsqniinaux  iii^-ennity — is  nicrelv  a  slender 
I'dd  (A'  hone  (as  delicate  as  a  line  wire,  lliat  thr  seal  may  not. 
s.('  it)  iiici'ly  rounded,  and  having"  a  point  at  one  I'lil.  and  ii 
l,ii(th  at  tlio  other.  It  is  inserted  int(»  the  ice,  and  the  kiioh 
rciiiainiiiii"  al)oV(^  the  surfaeo  int'orms  the  lishcrman  1»y  its 
iiiotion  whetlu-r  the  seal  is  employeil  in  niala'ii'^'  his  h(de  :  it' 
imt,  it  remains  nndistnid)ed.  and  the  attempt  is  L;iven  nj)  in 
lliat  [dace.  AVhen  the  hunter  sujiposcs  tlie  hole  to  Im'  nearly 
'■ 'iiipleted,  he  cautiously  lilts  his  spear  i.to  \v]ii(  h  the  line 
has  I'eiMi  ])re^■iollsly  attachedi.  and  as  mioii  as  the  MowiiiL;'  ot' 
the  Seal  is  distinctly  heard  -and  the  ice  eonse(|Ueii1  !y  \fiy 
tliin-   he  drives  it  into  liim  with  the   lon-i'  of  hotli  arms,  and 


iits  away  \vith   his    '  paiiua.'   or  w 


lariieiied 


:nili 


:  .     reniainine'   crust   of   ict\    to   enalde    him    to    repeal    llie 
Wounds,    and    e-,>t    him    out.      The    •  neitulc  "    ,  jiIiu'-o  ln\j>i(I<i), 

ruu'u'liiiL;'.  <dlhi'i'  >imply 


irjll 


<j:  tlie  smallest  seal,  is  ludd  while  si 


ly  Jiaiid.  or  ]>y  ]>utting'  the  line  round  a  sjiear  with  the  point 
;1uck   into    the    ice.       For   the   "  o^-uke  '    { jilmrn    Imrli'ihiK    the 


lilic  is 


]iassed  round  tlie  man's  le^  or  ai'iu  :   and  lor  a  ualr 


us. 


reiuid  his  hody,  his  I'eet  heiun'  ''^  ''"'  •'^ame  time  lirmly  set 
against  a  hummock'  of  ice.  in  which  ]iositioii  these  people 
can.  iVoiii  hahit,  hold  a^'ainst  a  very  heavy  strain.  A  boy  of 
tiltei'u  is  (Mjual  to  the  kiliiuo'  (A'  a  '  neituk,"  hut  it  re(|uir(;s  a 
fill-^rowu  person  to  master  idther  (»f  the  lar;^'er  animals. 
This  spoi't  is  not  Avithout  tlie  daiio'er  \vhi<di  add>  to  the  e.v- 
ciieiiieiit  of  success,  particularly  if  the  creaiur<'  .->tru<dv  l>y  the 


Imiiter  he  a  lare'e  seal  or  walrus;   for  woe   hetide   him    if 
li;.   I      'l'"''"^  i"»t  instantly  plant  his  feet  lirmly  in  tln'  ice,  mid  ihr 


ow 


liiiiiselfin  such   a  [losilioii.  that    the   strain  on  the  line  is  as 
ly  as  [tossible  brou<4'ht  into  the  direct  ion  df*  the  len'_;t h  of 


lle;ir 


lie   S 


I'iiie  of  his  ba<d\,  and  axis  (f  his  lower  limbs.  A  trans- 
vi'sse  pull  from  one  (d' these  jiowerful  auimals  would  double 
liiiii  up  across  the  air-lnde,  and  perhaps  In-eak  his  baidc  ;  oi- 
it  ill..'  opeuine-  l)e  larov,  as  it  often  is  when  the  spriiiL^-  is  ad- 
vaii'cd.  he  would  be  di'ati'e'ed  under  \vater  and  drowned. 
As    till-     Pillar    b>>ar    is    as    irreat    a    seal-li'infer    as    the 


HP 


SJs 


■riii:  I'ni.MJ  woijij*. 


li  ! 


E.s(|iiiiiiiin\,  (iiic  of  ilic  itsiiiil  ]ii('11i(m1s  oinplovcil  liy  1111' 
latter  to  cjilch  those  Ix'iirs  is  ti>  iiiiiinlc  ilie  motions  of  l!ii 
sc;ii  l»y  iviiiii'  (l;i1  on  tl:o  ice  until  the  beiii"  ii jij-roiiciies  suilici- 
enlly  near  to  (Misure  :i  ^'ood  aim:  but  a  i^-un  is  necessary  1-' 
|)raeiise  iliis  8trutai4'em  Avilli  success.  Seeman  (' Yoya^-e  o!' 
Ihe  Tlei'al(l')  mentions  anotlier  in;4'(Miious  mode  of  capturiiu: 
tin'  l)ear  by  ialsiny"  advantai^^o  of  the  well-lcnown  voracity  of 
Ihe  animal,  Avhich  ^•enerally  swallows  its  food  Avitliont  niiiil! 
rnasticatio]).  A  tliick  and  stronu'  })i(M'e  of  whalebone,  abnii; 
four  inches  l)road  and  two  feet  loni;',  is  rolled  u\)  into  a  siiinll 
compass,  and  carefully  enveloped  in  blubber,  forming;' a  rounii 
ball.  It  is  llien  pl;u*ed  in  the  o])en  air  at  a  low  temp»era1iir.-. 
"wliere  it  soon  he(/onies  hard  and  fi-o/.en.  Tlie  nati\es.  anii'i] 
with  their  knivt  s,  l.iowsau  arrows,  toLi'etlier  with  this  IVeZ'ii 
bait,  proceed  in  quest  of  the  bear.  .\s  Si»on  as  the  aniiniil  i> 
seen,  one  of  the  natives  disebarL;-os  an  arrow  at  it:  tli'' 
monster,  smartini^  from  tin's  assault,  chases  the  part}".  iLeii 
i'l  fidl  retreat,  until,  me  'tiiiL;'  with  the  frozen  blul)ber  droiipoJ 
in  his  ]);irli,  he  j^reedily  swallows  it,  and  continnos  the  pur- 
suit— doubtless  fancyin;^-  .hat  there  nmst  he  more  where  tlint 
came  iron).  The  natural  heat  of  the  body  soon  cansi's  tln' 
blul)ber  to  thaw,  when  the  Avhalebone,  tlms  freed,  s[)vii!L;s 
l)ack,  and  fri<j;'ht fully  lact^rates  tlie  stomach.  The  writliin^' 
brute  Jails  down  in  hel[»less  a^'ony,  and  the  Esf|niiiiiiUN. 
hurryiuL!,'  to  the  sjiot.  soon  put  an  end  to  his  sutl'erin^'s. 

The  Esqnimaux  of  Smith  .Sound  hunt  the  hear  witli  tlir 
assistance  of  their  do^'s,  which  are  carefullv  trained  not  tn 
ouLi-an'e  in  contest  with  the  bear,  but  to  retard  his  Jli^li!, 
AVhile  one  engrosses  iiis  attcmtion  ahead,  a  second  attack- 
him  in  the  ri^ar,  always  alert,  and  each  protecting  the  oil'cr: 
and  thus  it  rarely  hapjiens  that  tlnw  are  seriously  injuretl.  oi' 
that  they  fail  to  delay  the  animal  until  their  masters  ceiiii' 
lip.  Ifthen^be  two  hunters,  the  bear  is  hilled  easily:  I*  r 
one  mak<'s  a  feint  of  thrusting  a  s|)ear  at  theri^jht  side.  iii.iK 
iis  tlie  animal  turns,  with  his  arms  towards  tiic  tlireatciiol 
attack,  the  left  is  uujirotected.  and  receives  the  death-ueiunl. 
Hut  if  the  hunter  is  alone,  he  :^rasps  the  lance  th'mly  in  iii> 
hands,  and  provokes  the  animal  to  ]»ursue  hnu  liy  nie  : 
rapidly  acn.ss  its  path,  and  then  riuming  as  if  to  >  mi;"  . 
But  hardly  is  its  long,  nnwiiddy  body  c\t<'nded  for  the  ch' 


,.'**^ 


WAF-nr-  iir.vTixc 


n:f> 


than,  with  :i  riij»!il  jiiiii[),  the  liiiiiicr  (loiil;!cs  on  liistrack.  and 


i-;iii>  i)a< 


k  towanis  his  iirst  ]iositi(>ii.      'I'ln'  l>"ar  is  in  tli 


I'  acL, 


(.(' turniuL;'  at'tt'i' Iiini  a>^aiii,  wlicii  llie  lance  is  jilnn^'cd  into 
ilic  left  side  l)cli)\v  lli(>  sliouldt-r.  So  dcxtci'ousl y  lias  thi.s 
thrust  1i>  be  niadi',  that  an  un|>rartis('(l  hunlt'i-  has  dftcn  to 
!•  arc  his  s[i(Mr  in  the  side  of  his  [H'cv,  and  run  for  his  life  ; 
Kilt  cvrn  then,  if  wi'll  aided  l>_v  the  do:.;s.  a  cool,  skilfid  :.ian 
bi'Uloni  fails  to  kill  his  advcrs  iry. 

^Vhill'  tlie  sciil,  ]iar\vlial,  and  while  -whale  furnish  the 
staiile  food  of  the  more  southern  ( Jreeidandei',  the  walrus  is 
till'  chief  resource  of  the  Smith  Sound  Ks(]riiniaux.  'J"he 
manner  of  hunting"  this  animal  (h>|)ends  much  on  the  season 
<'f  the  year,  in  sj)rin<i-,  or  the  breeding"  season,  -when  the 
Malrus  is  in  his  i^'lory,  he  is  talcen   in  two  wavs.      Somctimej^ 

'  has  risen  by  tlie  side  of  an  iccber;^',  where  t)),' (-urreiits  have 
Avoi'ii  away  the  iloe,  or  thr(!U'_;h  a  tide  ciMck',  and.  enJoyhiL,' 
tlic  sunshine  too  Ioiil;-,  finds  his  n'ticat  cut(tfVby  the  fi'cc/inu- 
ii[i  (if  the  ojeninu" :   h'r,  like  the  seal,  the  ^\•all•us  can  only  woi'k 


iVem  l)clow  at   his  lire!'lhin''--ho]e.      ^Vhell  tl 


lus  cai 


iLiht.  tii(. 


i, ^i|Mimau:\,  who  with  k'een  Iiunter-crafi  are  scouring'  the  floes, 
sr.Mit  him  out  l>y  their  do;u's,  and  s[>(.'ar  liim.  I'^reijUeully  the 
i'  male  and  her  calf,  aci'ompanied  ]>y  the  u'rim-visae'ed  father, 
iiiv  seiMi  siiru'inu',  in  loviu;;- trios,  from  crack  to  crack,  and  sjiort- 
iii'i  iii  the  o|)enine's.  While  thus  on  their  t^nr,  they  invite  thcdi- 
vi:;ila,it  enemies  t(»  the  second  method  of  captui'e.  This  also 
is  by  the  lance  iind  ha]"j)oou  ;  b-ut  it  ol'ten  Ixcomes  a  i-e^'ular 
h;itil(',  the  niak'  <^'ariantly  fiontinL;'  the  assault,  and  (diarein^- 
the  huntt^rs  with  furious  bravery.  In  the  fall,  when  the 
]iiek  is  but  jiartiallv  (do^i-d,  the  walrus  are  found  in  mmdH'rs, 
li;iaL;'inii'  around  the  neutral   reuion   of  mixed   ice  and  water. 


aiiit 


us  this  becomes  solid  vvith  the  ad\ance  of  winter,  1 


I  i||<  >\V' 


iiii  it  more  and  UK-re  to  tlie  soulh. 

'She  Escjuimaux  at  this  sea-^on  aji[»i"oae]i  tle'in  o\ei-  thi.> 
veun^'  ice.  and  assail  them  in  cra(dcs  an. I  holes  with  l!ar[.oon 
«iid  line.     This  Ushers,  a>  the  seaxui  ^rows  colder.  <hirkei-, 


iim 


1  more  ti-ntjw'sinous.  is  fearfidly  hazardous.      Kane  ri'|;i 


les 


luring'  a  tune  of  fandne.  two  ot 


luimaex  frien 


Awaklok  and  ^lyouk.  determined  to  seek  tiie  walrus  on  {!;• 
cjien  ice.  Thoy  suect'ed.'d  in  killinu'  a  lare-o  male,  and  wen 
I'Uu'nine"  to   their  villa;.''*',  when  a   nortli    wind  broke  up  tin 


HoO 


Tin:  I'oi.AU  woiii.i). 


ic'O,  Jiiid  llicy  Inuinl  I  li('iiis('lv<'S  iillniit.  Tlio  inipiilso  of  n 
EuvopciUl  AV.iiiM  have  hccn  to  seek  the  lilinl  ;  but  tlu'V  kurw 
tliiit  tlio  drift  AViis  iilwiiys  iiutst  diiii^'crous  on  (ho  coiist,  iiihI 
nro'cd  tlit'ir  doo's  towards  tlio  nearest  ic'L'l)erii".  Tlu'V  rcncdu'd 
it  aft(}r  a  strnu'u'li',  and,  l)y  ^I'fat  cH'orts,  nnnlc  ^-ood  tlicir 
Lindin;^',  with  their  do^'s  and  the  litilf-bnteliered  carcase  ol' 
the  wiilrns.  It  was  at  the  cl(»se  of  the  Isist  nioonliu'lif  (>{' 
December,  and  a  complete  darkness  S('lth'd  around  tlinii. 
Tliey  tied  the  dop's  down  to  knol>s  of  ice,  to  prevent  tlicir 
losino-  tlieir  foot-bold,  and  ])rostra1i'd  themselves,  to  escape 
boinji;  blown  olf  by  the  violence  of  the  wind.  At  tirst  the  st'ii 
broke  over  tliein.  but  they  u'aincd  a  hi^-hcr  level,  and  built  a 
sort  of  screen  of  ice.  On  the  lifth  ni^ht  afterwaids.  so  fiii' 
as  they  could  jud^e,  one  of  Myouk's  I'eet  was  iVo/en,  and 
Awakh)k  lost  his  j>'reat  toe  bv  l'rost-bi(e.  Lut  Ihev  did  nnj 
lose  couraii'e,  and  ate  their  walrus-meat  as  they  floated  slowly 
to  the  sonlh.  Ft  was  towards  the  close  of  the  second  mridi)- 
L'<4'lit,  after  a  month's  inqa-isonment.  such  as  only  these  ireii 
men  could  eudui-e.  that  they  found  the  ber^'  had  o-rounded. 
They  liberated  their  don's  as  soon  as  the  youni^'  ice  couM 
bear  their  wei^'ht,  and  albndiiuL;'  loni4'  lines  to  them,  whidi 
they  cut  from  the  hide  of  Ihe  dead  walrus,  they  succeeded  in 
lianlino'  themselves  throui^'h  the  Avater  space  uhich  always 
surrounds  an  iceberp'.  and  reaidiiuL;'  safe  Ivc.  They  returned 
to  their  \illa<^'0  like  men  laised  from  the  dt-ad,  to  nn'ct  ;i 
welcoiii      l»ut  to  meet  famine  alonn'  with  it. 

In  till'  form  of  their  bodies,  their  short  priidved  cars,  thick 
furry  coat,  and  bushy  tail,  the  d(»y's  of  the  Escpiinniux  so 
nearly  resemble  tlie  W(dl'  of  these  re^i.»ns,  that  when  e.  ;i 
lie-ht  or  brindled  c(dour,  they  may  easily  at  a  little  distance 
be  mistaken  for  that  anima!  :  hnt  an  eye  accustomed  1i> 
both,  })erceives  that  the  wolf  always  kee])S  his  head  dewii 
and  his  tail  l)etw.'cn  his  le^'s  in  ruuniuL;'.  Avhereas  tin' 
doii's  ahnost  always  carry  their  tails  handsonielv  cmdcd 
over  the  bacdc.  Their  haii  in  the  winter  is  from  three  te 
four  inches  lono- ;  but,  besides  this,  nature  furnishes  tin  la 
durin<4-  this  riy-orous  sea-on  with  a  thick  under-coatin;;'  et' 
close,  soft  w(.>ol,  Avhich  enables  them  to  brave  the  must 
inclement  weather.  'J'hey  do  not  bark,  but  have  a  Iohl;'. 
melancholv  howl,    like  that  of  th(>  wolf.      When   di-awiiu:'  -^ 


K.^QriMAr.V    DOii 


331 


ilsc  (tf  ;i 
it'V  kllrw 

:)ust,  iiii'l 
■  rcnclinl 

Hh\     llll'il' 

Livcaso  III' 
iiliii'lit   ut' 

out  tlifir 

to    OSt'illM> 

st  tlio  8e;i 
1(1  built  a 
.•(Is,  so  far 
ozc:'!!,  aii'l 
V  (li<l  ii"t 
tod  sldwly 

iiul   llU'dll- 

tliose  iron 

oTOnUtlril. 

ice  eoiiM 

I'll),  -wliicli 

(■('('(led  ill 

1  ulwavs 

i-L'tuniod 

i»  inr'i.'t  a 

ars.  1]ii'-k 
iiiiaux  so 
.lii'ii  <'i'  a 
distance 
;1(iiiifil  I0 

•1(1     (ioWll 

■ivas    di'' 
ly  I'url"'! 

llllVL^    to 

,liL'S  tliiin 
:'()atiu'_;'  "t 
the  niii>t 

Irawin'.r  a 


>1''(1'_;'.\  tlii'V  liavi'  a  sii)ij)l('  liariK'ss  mC  ilfov  ov  seal-skin 
uoiii:;'  rouinl  llic  iiccK'  li_v  cin'  luLilit.  and  anotln  r  for  cafh  nf 
Ilu>  fV>ro-l('Li's.  will)  a  siniile  iIioiil;"  li'adinu'  <i\im'  the  itacjc, 
ami  aKai'lii'd  to  llio  slcdii'i'  as  a  traci^  Tliiiu>4'li  llicy  a]i- 
mnir  at  lirst  siii'lit  to  'ic  Iniildli'il  lo'i'oincr  williont  rc-'ard 
to  rcu'idarity,  c'onsitl(.'rubl(^  attrnlion  is  really  j>aid  to  their 
;ii'i'an'_:'t'nient .  parlicnlarly  in  llie  sejeelion  oi'  a  <I<il;'  ot' pecn- 
liar  s[drit  and  sa^'acdly,  who  is  allowed  li_v  a  lon'.^'<'r  liMei>  to 
ja'ccedt.'  the  re.-.t  as  header,  and  in  whom,  in  luniine'  io  lh(» 
rio'lit    or   left,    the   driver    usually    ad(li'L'ss(_'S   liinisejl",   usino- 


(•I 


■rtain  words  as  the  carters  do  will 


1  u.- 


tl 


o    tlieso    a    QV»o( 


1 


lender  attends  Avith  adunrahle  precision  v<'S[>t'ciall_v  if  his  own 
iianie  1»('  vepeatetl  ai  the  sanii'  linie>.  |o(d\iu<j;  hidnnd  over  his 
shoulder  with  e'rcal  earnestness,  as  if  listeinn^'  to  the  dii'cc- 
tions  of  the  drive]-,  w  ho  sit  s  (piite  low  on  1  he  Ibre-pai't  of  the 
slcd^-i",  his  "wliiji  in  hand,  ami  his  feet  overhaiiL;'ii!;^'  the  snow 
on  one  side. 

( )ii  rnULi'h  e'i'(,niid,  as  aniom,;'  hnmmocdsS  ni'  ico,  the  sled^'o 
would  be  fr('([uently  overtnrneij  if  the  driver  did  not  repeatedly 
Li'ct  off.  and  by  lifting-  oi-  diMwiiiLi'  it  lo  one  side,  steer  it  clear 
of  those  (d)staeles.  Al  all  times,  indeed,  except  on  a  smooth 
and  well-math^  road.  Ix'  is  pretty  constant 'y  emphiyeil  thus 
Asith  his  feet,  and  this,  tou'ether  with  his  never-ceasing' voci- 
ferations and  frequent  use  of  the  whip,  renders  the  drivine-  of 
one  of  these  V(dii(des  by  no  means  a  ]ilrasant  or  easy  task. 

'The  whip,'  says  Kane,  wdio  from  assiduous  pi'actice  at 
leiiu'th  attained  a  considerable  iiroiiciency  in  its  use.  '  is  six 
yards  lonu'.  and  the  handle  hut  sixteen  imdics— a  short  lev(_'r 
to  t'nrow  out  suidi  a  len'atlM)f  seal  hide,  r.eai'u  to  do  it.  how- 
e\,'r.  with  a  nni'^ierly  sweep,  oi-  e|,-:c  mahc  np  yoiir  nund  to 
fui-eoo  (h'ivine-  slede-es  ;  for  the  do^v^s  nre  uiiidcd  solely  by  the 
la-h,  ami  yon  must  be  able  to  hit  not  only  any  jiarlicular  doe- 
old  of  a  team  of  twehe.  hut  In  ai'ciimpany  the  fat  also  with 
a  resoundine-  crack.  Aftt'r  this  you  llnd  thai  to  '_''''t  ynur  lash 
hack  inv(dves  an(^ther  dittieulty  :  for  it  is  apt  to  eiitan-b' itsejt" 
aniiJiiu'  ill,,  (hi^'s  and  lines,  or  to  fasten  ilsell'  cinniin^'lv  round 


hits  of  i 


ce,  so  as 


to  drae'  \ou  head  over  hinds  iido  the  sni 


iw 


The  secret  bv  which  this  com])licated  set  (jf  reijuirements  is 
I'nilllled  consists  in  propei'ly  deseribine-  an  arc  from  the 
>hoidder  with  a  stilVtdbnw.  e-iviue"tl)e  jerk  to  the  w  hiu-hamlle 


a;i2 


Tin;  I'oi.AU  w'oiiij). 


iVoui  llic  li.Mnl  iitiil  wr'iM  nlniic.  Tlic  lusli  ii-jiils  ln'liiiid  ;is  ymi 
tniv.'l.  mill  wlicii  IliiMw  II  I'lii-wiird  is  iillnwcd  tiicxlcnd  ilsrU' 
\vitli(nif  III)  cllort  to  l)riii^'  it  l»;ick.  Von  unit  juit  initly  jil'tcr 
j;'ivin;4'  tlic  project  il.' iiii|tiilsc  until  it  iiuwiiids  its  sl<»\v  li.'ii^'tli, 
ri'iidu's  tlicciiil  (if  its  tctlii')',  iind  criudcs  to  tell  you  tluit  it  is 
lit  its  J.dinicy's  end.  Such  ii  cnudv  <ui  tlu'  car  or  fore-loot  of 
uii  iiiii'ortuuiite  doi;'  is  si^'iialised  Ity  a  howl  (luilo  uniiiisLakc- 
iil)lo  in  its  ini])ort.' 

T!u!  inert)  labour  of  usinu,'  this  whip  is  such  that  the  l^s- 
f[uiniaux  traA'ol  iu  couples,  ou(?  sled^-e  after  the  other.  'J'he 
hindt'r  do<i's  follow  mechanically,  aud  thus  require  uo  ^\■\l\\>  ; 
au<l  the  drivers  chan^'e  about  so  as  to  rest  each  other. 

In  the  sunuuev,  when  the  absence  of  snow  prevents  the  use 
of  slede-es,  the  doL^s  are  still  niadi!  usei'iil,  on  journeys  and 
huutine'  excursions,  by  beinLj-  eni[doyeil  io  carry  burdens  in 
a  hind  of  saddle-1)ae\s  laid  across  their  shoulders.  A  stout 
dog"  thus  accoutred  will  acconi])auy  his  uuister  laden  with  a 
"weig'ht  of  about  twenty  or  twenty-live  ])ounds. 

The  scent  of  the  Estpuniaux  doi><  is  excellent,  and  this  ]uyi- 
porty  is  turm-d  to  account  in  tindiuL;'  the  seal-holes,  Avhicli 
they  will  discover  entirely  by  the  smell  at  a  very  g'reat  <lis- 
tancc.  The  track  of  a.  siiig-le  deer  upon  the  snow  Avill  in  lik(^ 
manner  st.'t  them  oil'  at  a  full  gallo]^  at  least  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  before  thev  arrive  at  it,  and  with  the  same  alacrity  thev 


pur 


'sue 


the   1 


lear  or  tin'  musk-ox.      Indeed,  the  c>idv  aninia 


Avhich  they  are  not  ea^'er  to  chase  is  the  wolf,  of  Avhich  they 
seem  to  have  an  instinctive  dread,  giving"  notice  at  night  of 
their  apprctach  io  the  huts  by  a  loud  and  continued  howl. 

In  spite  of  their  invaluable  services  they  are  treated  uilli 
great  severity  by  their  masters,  avIio  never  caress  them,  and. 
indeed,  scarcely  ever  take  any  notice  of  them  excep>t  to  punl>Ii 
them.  But,  notwitjistanding  this  rough  treatment,  the  at- 
tachment of  the  dogs  to  their  mastei's  is  very  great,  and  this 
they  display,  a  ft  era  short  abseiu'e,  by  jiunping  up  and  licking 
their  faces  all  over  with  extreme  delight. 

It  may  be  supjiosed  that  among  so  cheerful  a  people  as  tlu' 
Esquimaux  there  are  many  games  or  s]>oi"ts  pract  ised.  <  *ne  el 
tl 


leir  exluitit  ions  co 


iisists  ill  making  hideous  fac(,'S  l)y  drawinu' 
Loth  lips  into  the  mouth,  poking  h)rward  the  chin,  squinting 
frightfullv,  occasionally  shutting  one  eye,  and   moving  the 


head  fi 


oin 


tn  side,  as  if  the  nock  hnd  been  dislocntod, 


i:-^(iii.MAr.\  si'oiM's. 


■.\:]:\ 


;1S  ynll 

y  iil'tcr 

at  it  ir^ 
.foot  ol' 
istak*!- 

;.  Tho 
)  Avliip  ; 

the  lis.' 
oys  ill  111 
L'dciis  ill 
A  stout 
1  Avitli  a 

:his  pvn- 

fJ,  Avllirll 

vat  (lis- 
1  in  lilo' 
•tci-  of  a 
.•it y  tilt 'V 
iuiiuial 
lich  Xht'V 

IlllLi'llt  ot 
lidwl. 
lied  uilli 
'111.  aii<l. 
|()  ii\iui>li 
the  at- 
1  this 


IIK 


lickiii:; 


ili^  as  tui' 
(liio  of 

hlniwinu' 
uintin<' 


iT.iir 


AtiKih.'r  [M-i  InniiaiH'c  f(iii>,Is(s  in  repent iiii,'  CH-rtain  ^\. 'T'Is 
with  ii  L;uttiiriil  tmii'  rest'iiiMiiiM' veiitriloiinisin.  stariii";' at  tlie 
-iiuie  time   ill  such  ii    iiiaiiiier  as   [n  make  their  I'vrs  apid-ai 


;'i'a( 


Iv  ti»  hurst  out  cf  their 


«jcl\ei  S 


Wlill  t  lie  e.\(  rl  Kill. 


w  ( I  (ir 


iiini'c  will  siiiiieliiiies  staml  uji  face  to  (ai'e,  an  1.  with  L^i'eat 
i[iiickiiess  and  i-en'iilariiy,  res[i(iii(l  to  each  othei'.  l^ee|lil!^•  ^ueh 
exaet  time  tliat  the  s(»iiii(l  appears  to  come  rroiii  <iiie  throat 
instead  of  several.  TlieN'  are  i'oiid  of  music,  holh  vocal  and 
instrumental,   but  their  siiiL;'inL;'   is  not  jmudi  better  lluui  a 


Im\V 


T!ie  Es(|uiniaux  ha\'0  iieil  her  magistrates  iior  la\v>.  yet  tliey 


[ire  o 


rderlv  in  their  eoiKlnct  towards  each   other.      The  c 


oll- 


sli 


iitioii  of  t  heir  society  j  ■!  patriarchal,  but  there  is  no  rero;. 


ni 


t  ion  (/f  masterr^hi])  e.X'  ''I't  su 


ell  as  may  oi 


e  claimed  by  supi'rioi 


pi'invess.      The  rule  ol'tiie  head  ol' a  family  lasts  only  as  hm 


as 


he  h: 


IS  viu'our  enoiiu'li  to  serure  siu-eess  in  huiitiii''' 


W 


leli 


his  iiowers  of  mind  and  liody  are  impaired  liy  a;.i-e,  he  at  once 
>iii1;s  ill  the  social  scale,  associates  wit  h  the  women,  a  nd  takes 
eal    ill  the  oomiak.     Tliev  rarelv  (luarrcd  amoim-  them- 


HIS  s 


Selves,  and  settle  their  disjtutes  either  l)y  boxing',  the  j)arties 
sittiiu;'  down  and  strikinn*  bloAvs  alternately,  until  one  of  t hem 
ui\es  in;  or  before  a  court  of  honour,  where,  after  the  accuser 
;iad  the  at-ciised  have  I'ichlv  abused  and  ridiculed  each  other, 
the  ease   is  decided   by    tlie   jiriests   or   '  an^'ekoks.'     These 


v.oiider-woi'kers,  wJio  enjoy  a  lireat  reputation  as  sorcerers, 
•  Mithsayers,  or  niedicine-men,  employ  ventriloquism,  swallow 
ki.ives,  extract  stuiiesfrom  various  ])arts  of  tbeir  bodies,  and 
u<e  other  deceptions  te»  impress  their  du]»es  with  a  hi'^li 
e|iinion  of  tiieir  supernatural  ])OAveis.  Jake  the  members  (d' 
I'iie  li'anied  [irufessions  elsewhere.  tlu'V  Inn'e  a  certain  lan- 
yuaji'e  or  j'arL;()n  of  their  own,  in  which  they  communicate 
with  ea(di  otiier.  The  heathen  lilsipiimaux  do  not  ajipeai* 
t'>  have  any  itlea  of  the  existeuci'  of  one  Sujireme  lUin^', 
hul  I)elieve  in  a  number  of  sj)irits,  with  wln.m  on  cei'iain 
occasions  the  anu't'koks  pretend  to  lioM  mysterious  inter- 
course. J']ven  in  ( >ld  ( Ireenland  tin.'  iidluenci'  and  t.achinys 
of  iho  niissi(»naries  liave  not  entirely  of»lilerat.'<l  the  old 
snnerslitions,  and  th.e  mysteries  of  tbe  aii^'eko'c,  though  not 
d    near    tlie    T^auish    settleimuits,   still   li<jl<l 


eiieiilv    recoLi'ins( 


iieir  secret  [><iwer  over  many  a  miti\e  wdio   is  professedly  a 


*  iiri^-tiau. 


am 


Till;    I'nI.AlJ     UoUi.K. 


( 'iipdiiii  Hull  lii'^lily  \>r 


ll'i'S 


111 


:'( M  M 


liiiit  lire  (tf  I  111'  Ms(|iii- 


II 


Let 


liiux  ;   l)iil    ill    llicir   l)rli;i\  umr  t<i  the   oM    aii'l    iiilinii  tln'v 


niy  lilt'  iii^ciisilMlIly.  or  r;it!i('i'  inhiiiiianily,  cnniiiKHilv 
found  iuuoiij^'  SiiViiLi'c  uiitioiis,  iVc(|ii('inly  iil)iiii(li>iiiii;4'  tliciii  t«j 
their  I'ilte  Oil  their  joiinievs,  iiiid  iillowiil'.;'  ihciii  1i>  ]ii'i'ish  ill 
tl 


le  \vil<leniess. 


Am(»li;4"1  lieu  I  selves  ''ri^i'lilqiok*  (he  is  ;i  t  liiel'j  is  ;i  Icnii  of  ic- 
pntiich,  hut  they  stciil  without  scrujile  from  striin'4'"rs,  mid  :ire 
not  iishiiuicd  \vh(Mi  dell 'ft  cd,  nor  (h»  j  hey  hliish  Avlidi  rt'proveil. 
Parry  tuxes  them  with  Av;iiit  of  ^iMlit  mle  ;  iiinl  tllo||^il  tlu^y 
liiive  no  douht  rendci'ed  '^ood  ser\  ii-cs  to  ni;iny  <if  our  Aretic 
naviu'jitors,  vet  .somcl  inirs,  when  thi'\'  tiiiicici!  tlicnisrlvs 
the 

inurih;!'  the  strauLicrs.  iiinl  thrir  '_;ood  hi'lia\ioiir  can  only  h 
relied  upon  as  l(»ni;'  as  there  is  the  jiower  of  euforcini;"  it. 

(_)ue  of  the  most   amiahje  traits  <<i'  their  eharaeter  is  tli 


roiiLier  i)artv,  Ihev  have   not    hesitateil   to  attaekort< 


kindness  with  which  thev  U-cni  their  children.  \vh< 


>se 


Mlt! 


uess  and  docility  are  sin-li  as  to  occasion  their  parents  little 
tronhle,  and  to  render  severity  towar<ls  them  (|uite  nnn"ces- 
yarv.  liVeii  from  their  earliest  infancv  the\-  iiossess  thiit 
quiet  dis]»ositiou,  L;'eiitli'ness  <if  demeanour,  and  uncoinniou 
evenness  of  tein[ier,  for  w  hich.  in  mature  a^'e.  t  h.ey  are  for  the 
most   part  distin<j;'uished.     'They  are  just  as  fond  (tf  \>h 


\y. 


8a  vs 


V 


ii'rv, 


IS  any  other  youuj;'  people,   ant 


1 


he   san: 


kind,  only  that  while  an  En<4'lish  cliild  draws  a  eart  of  wood, 
an  Esquimaux  of  the  same  ix'^a  has  a  sledi^'o  of  Avhalehone. 
andior  the  snperl)  hahy-lionse  of  the  former,  the  latter  hnilds 
a  miniature  hut  of  snow,  tind  beta's  a,  liju'lited  wiek  from  liev 
mother's  lani})  to  illuminate  the  little  dwelliui^-.' 


by  t 


len  not   mo 


re  than  ei^'ld  rears  old.  the  boys  are  ti 


neir 


fitl 


lers    o 


n    th 


.1 


leir    seaimi''    exeursums,   wlnn'c 


h 


tl 


lev 


begin  to  learn  their  future  liusinoss  ;  and  even  at  tliat  early 
aye  they  are  oceasionally  entrusted  to  brini;'  lionit?  a  sledyo 
and  dou's  from  a  distanee  (if  several  miles  over  the  ice.  At  the 
a!.';e  of  eleven  we  see  a  boy  with  his  water-tiyht  hoots,  a  spear 
in  his  hand,  and  a  snndl  eoil  of  line  at  his  back,  aeeompanyiiiLf 
the  men  to  the  lishery  under  every  eireumst;niee  ;  and  frcnu 
this  time  his  serviees  daily  increase  in  value  to  the  wdiole  tribe. 
In  intellii.';enec  and  susceptibility  of  civilisation  the  Esqni- 
manx  are  far  superior  to  the  neighbouring'  India 


ns. 


Tl 


ie\ 


i:S(il  l.\l  \l  \    MM 


•  »i 


iiuiily 
I'Ui  to 
ish  in 

(>['  rt'- 

h  Ihoy 
Arctic 

k  or  1" 
(iiily  b'" 
it. 

•    is   til.' 
o'cntl"- 
ts  litll'.' 
iimcHn's- 
,»ss   tluit 
omnittii 
L'  i'or  tlit! 
f  play.' 
(>  s-.nii" 
it'  >voo'!, 

llfljiMli'. 

■r  biiili.U 


0    tilk'Ml 

it  early 
h  sloAye 


a  sju'iii 
niaiiyiii'j; 
I  lid  iV«'Hi 

,le  ivil't'- 
Esqui- 


iiavi.' siu'h  a  i;(>imI  id^a  dl'  ili(>  liydrMn-rajiliN  and  hi-ariii^-;  <>|' 
1  hr  SI -a  i-oasts  which  (hey  f'r  '(Hifiit  as  tit  diMW  acciiralc  ciiai'ts 
Ml'thi'iii.  Thus  I'arry,  in  his  si'duid  voya'.;'!'.  was  i.;iiidi'(l  in  Ids 
.. I II Tat  ions  hy  the  slvi-trln's  id  tin'  talent rd  I  liL^liuk  :  and  wdiih' 
|!ii'(dii'y  \vas  at  Kot/rlaic  Smuid,  Ihc  natives  cnnslructrd  a, 
iliai't  iif*  the  coast  U|»on  t  he  sand,  lirst  inarkiii'^' out  liie  roast- 
line  with  a,  stiidc,  and  reyidatiii^-  the  distance  hy  the  day's 
v.    Tlie  hills  and  rani^'es  of  nioiiiitains  were  ne.xt  sin  iwii 


Miirm 


liV  ell 


■vations  of  sand  or  stone,  and  the  islands  represrided  hy 
iieajis  (d'  |»el>hles,  their  ]iro|>orl  ions  hein^-  duly  attended  to. 
When  the  monntains  and  islands  were  ei-eeted,  the  \iliaL;'es 
and  Hshiny'-slations  were  niai'ked  hy  a  immhi-r  of  slieks 
jilaeed  u]>riLi'hi,  in  imitation  of  those  which  are  [mt  up  on  (he 
t  wherever  these  jteople  fix  their  ahode.  In  this  in, inner 
!ii[tlete  liydrou-ra[>hical  plan  was  drawn  from  ('ai»e  Derhy 


reas 


,1  cu 


rial 


to  t'a[)e  Krusenstern. 

The  Esquimanx  liavc  a  deidded  predilection  for  commer- 
piu'suits,  and  undertake  Ioiil;'  voyages  for  the  purpos.'s 
of  trade.  ^I'lius  (.)n  tlie  contineidal  line  of  coast,  west  of  the 
Mackenzie,  the  Point  Burrow  Esquimaux  proceed  every 
smamerwith  sled^^'es  laden  with  Avliale  or  si.-al  oil,  wlialehom-, 
walrus  tuslcs,  thoni^'s  of  Avaiiais  hide,  and  seal  skins,  tnthe 
("ulvillo  River,  m  here  tlu'v  nieel  the  I'lMiuiniaux  from  l\o[yCe!ait^ 
Suiiiid.  wlio  offer  them  in  exidiaicje  artirles  jdoeiired  from 
the  Tchulctchi  in  the  jtrevious  sumnier,  such  as  iron  mid 
cupper  kidtles,  knives,  tobacco,  beads,  and  tin  for  maK•in^^ 
]iipes.  About  ten  (htys  are  spent  in  l)avteriiiL;-,  (hineiiiM-, 
and  ri'Veh'y,  on  the  flat  <4round  between  the  tents  of  oarh 
]iarty,  pilelied  a  bow-shot  apart.  The  time  is  one  of  [>Ieasant 
excitement,  and  is  jiassed  nearly  ■without  s]eo[i.  Aiiout. 
Julv  liO  this  friendly  nu'etim'"  is  at  an  end  :  i\\v  K'ol/.ebue 
Sound  Esquimanx  ascend  the  C'olville  on  theii'  v,ay  hnme- 
Marils.  while  those  from  I'oinI  HariMw  (h'seriid  to  llie  sea,  to 
pursue  thidr  voya^'e  eastward  to  Jjarter  Ju'ef,  whei-e  they 
ehtaiii  in  trafVic  from  the  eastmai  I'iSipiimaiix  \arious  skins, 
>tnia'  laiujis.  EiiLi'li'^h  kniv<'S,  small  white  beads,  and  lately 
Li'uus  and  ammnnition,  ■wliich,  in  the  year  followinL^  they 
cxchaiie-e  for  the  Kotzebne  Sound  ai'tiides  ai  the  Colville. 
aleii^'  witli  tlie  produce  (>f  their  own  sea  hunts. 

In  this  manner,  articles  of  Kussian  jnanufacture,  (.'ri'-inalh- 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


":SM  IIM 


m 

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22 


12.0 


1.8 


1.25      1.4 

1.6 

^ 6"     - 

► 

v: 


i9 


ep. 


/a 


.^ 


^h 


•%      ^e: 


V>        c%„ 


9. 


<i 


o 


7 


//a 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


s. 


^^ 


4. 


\ 


\ 


^<b 


V 


6^ 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER.  NY    14580 

(716)  872-4503 


&, 

:<'«* 


W^, 


Q- 


3.J6 


THK    I'OI-AR    WOULD. 


purcluisod  lit  the  fair  of  Ostrownojo  by  tlio  Tchuktchi,  or 
frojii  the  factors  of  tlie  Rnssian  Fur  t.'oiiiitaii}'  on  Sled^ft' 
Ishiiul  ill  Bthriiio-'s  Strait,  find  their  Avav  from  tribe  to  tribe 
ulon«jr  the  Anierieaii  coast  as  far  as  Repulse  Ba}',  aiul  coniitelc 
anion;^the  tribes  of  the  ]\Iackenzie  with  articles  from  Sheliiekl 
or  ]Jirmin<Tham. 

A  hunter's  life  is  always  precarious — a  constant  alternati«iii 
between  abundance  and  want;  and  though  the  Esquimaux 
strikes  many  a  seal,  white-iish,  or  wah'us  in  the  course  of 
the  year,  yet  these  animals  do  not  abound  at  allseas(»ns,  and 
there  are  other  causes,  besides  improvidence,  which  soon  ex- 
haust the  stores  laid  by  in  times  of  abundance.  Active 
exercise  and  constant  exposiu-e  to  cold  are  renuirkalde  pro- 
moters of  atomic  clmny^e  in  the  human  body,  and  a  very 
lari^e  »up[ily  of  f  tod  is  absolutely  necessary  to  C(»uuterbalaii(.i' 
the  etl'ects  of  a  rajtid  organic  cond)Ustion.  As  a  matter  ut' 
curiosity,  Parry  once  tried  how  much  an  Esquimaux  lal 
would,  if  freely  su[)plied,  consume  in  the  com-se  of  a  day. 
The  undermentioned  artick's  were  weighed  before  beiii;,' 
given  to  him  :  he  was  twenty  hours  in  getting  through  them, 
and  cc.iainly  did  not  consider  the  quantity  extraordinary. 

Stji-liursi'  lloli,  li.'iiil  frozen         .         .         . 

,.  ,.  I'uilnl  .... 

Bifiul  ;inJ  brciul-tlust  .... 

Total  of  solids  ID 


•1 

■1 

■I 

1 

1 

12 

Thr  fluiils  wcro  in  fair  I'rojioriion,  viz.  rich  lmmvv  soup.  1]  pint  ;  raw  spirit,  3 
winr  plasMS  ;  st  roiiu' ;,'1nv.  1  tuiiiMiT:  waliT,  1  gallon,  1  pint.* 

Kane  averages  the  Esquimaux  ration  in  a  season  of  pk-uty 
at  eight  or  ten  pounds  a,-day,  with  stmp  and  water  to  l!io 
extent  of  half  a  gallon,  and  finds  in  this  excessive  consump- 
tion— which  is  rather  a  necessity  (..f  their  peculiar  life  ami 
organisation  than  the  result  of  gluttony — the  true  explana- 
tion of  the  scarcity  from  which  they  frequently  suffer,  lu 
times  of  abundance  they  hunt  indomitably  without  the  h>-^ 
of  a  day,  and  stow  away  large  quantities  of  meat.     An  ex- 

*  L'aptain  llall.  who  in  Iuh  search  after  tln'  remains  of  the  i''ranklin  e.xpeilitinii 
lias  now  spin!  several  years  among  the  lOsijtiimaux,  has  so  tar  aetjuireil  tl.iir 
appiiili'  tliat  he  is  able  to  eonsniiie  9  lbs.  of  meal  a  diiy  without  any  iai'U- 
VeaieUOe. 


r.\. MINKS. 


837 


jktclii,  or 

0  to  tril-H' 

II  8hollii'Ul 

iltovnatliiu 
ti^squiiuaux 

1  euurso  <>f 

.'llSOllS,   tlll'l 

h  soon  ox- 
•o.  Active 
rkublo  i>ro- 

LUltl    a     VLTV 

uterbalaui.i' 
a  iiuittrr  uf 
iiinuiux  lal 
o  of  a  »l;ty. 
L't'ore  behiu' 
:"c)U<4'li  tlieiiu 
orcUuavy. 

11/.. 


ciiviition  is  made  citlior  on  tlio  main-land — or.  what  is  ])n»- 
li  ir»'(l,  on  an  island  inacerssiblo  to  t'oxos — and  tho  tiosh  is 
.ot;iik«'d  inside  and  eoveivil  with  lioavv  atones.  One  snoh 
oiulie,  which  Kane  met  on  a  small  island,  contained  th«»  flesh 
(if  ten  walrus,  and  he  knew  (»f  others  equally  larjje.  But  l»y 
their  iincient  custom,  all  share  with  all  ;  and  as  they  mi<^rato 
ill  iinnibers  as  their  necessities  ])rom]>t,  the  tax  on  each  par- 
ticular settlement  is  n(>t  seldom  so  exci'ssive,  that  even  con- 
siderable stores  are  unable  to  withstand  the  drain,  and  soon 
make  way  for  i»inchin<f  hun;j;er,  and  even  famine. 


-•*s?w 


VilW    SipUM-,  •) 


jU  ;.'<il  .vhal. 


on  of  plenty 
ater  to  tlio 
e  consunip- 

liar  lite  an.l 

[lie  explaua- 
^ulVer.     Ill 

lout  the  less 
it.     An  e.K- 


iklin  i\\< 


,1  ihoir 


mt    Miiv  nu'"ii- 


:^i&^i 


"•^«»^»4t«l-»a8'?"-«ii; 


Hudson's  Bav  Post. 


CllArTER  XXVI  I. 

TIIF.    FIR    THADK    OT    TIIK    HlDSOX's    l!AY    TKHRITOHIFS. 

Tlif  C'liiipcur  ilt>  I'nis  Till-  Viiv.'i^'cur  — Till'  I'irdi-liai'k  Cmikio — Tlio  ('.nKi.linn 
l'"iir  Tnicii-  ill  tlif  hivt  Cciitiiry — Tlic  lliulsoirs  l!ay  Coiiipiiiiy— llliinilv  ImuiK 
between  tlie  Nortli-Wc  >t  Cuiiiip.iiiv  n{  ('Miiailii  iiinl  llu'  lluilsuiiV  l>;iv  (''i|iiii;iiiv 
— 'i'lieir  Aiiialtr:ini;ii  ion  into  a  New  ('(iinpar.y  in  IS'il  —  Kei'Diistrui'timMif  lli' 
IIikIsuh's  I!ay  ('iiiiii'aiiy  in  ISfiH — I'mMs  ui'  Houses  Tlie  All  ilia  wiiny:  JiiHiwiV' 
of  the  Coini'aiiy  oil  its  .--ava^'e  l)i'|ii'ii(lenls — 'I'lie  lilaek  Itear  or  liarilial— Tin 
Jirown  I'lar — Tlie  (irisly  IKar  'I'iii'  Ii'aeoon  ~ 'I'lie  Ainei'iean  (ilnttoii  'I'll' 
Pino  >rafteii-  Tile  I'lkan  or  W<.oil>lioek — The  Cliiiiiza — Tlie  Mink— The  Caiia 
iliaii  Fish-otter — Tiu' ('ro.-seci  I'ox  The  l>iaek  or  Silvery  I'ox — The  ('aii:ili.iii 
l^ynx  or  Tishu — The  Ice  Hare—  'I'lie  Heaver — The  Mnxjiiasli. 

AS  tlio  dosiro  to  ivaeh  Tiulia  by  tlio  shortest  roiul  first  ni.nl'' 
tlie  civilisi'd  world  {icquaiiited  Avith  the  eastern  const 
of  North  AiiK'riea,  so  the  extension  of  the  fur  trade  has  Imhii 
the  chief,  or  rather  tlie  oiil}-,  motive  wliicli  originally  led  tlu^ 
footsteps  of  the  white  niaii  from  the  C^madian  Lakes  iiml 
the  borders  of  Hudson's  Bay  into  the  remote  interior  of  that 
vast  continent. 

The  first  Euroi)ean  fur  traders  in  North  Aiiieriea  weiv 
French  (Canadians — coureurs  des  bois — a  littintr  surnaino  fi'i' 
men  habituated  to  an  [ndian  forest  life.  Three  or  four  "t 
these  'irregular  spirits  '  a^'reein*^  to  make  an  expedition  into 
the  backwoods  would  set  out  in  their  birch-bark  canoe,  lailtii 


Till-:    I'AIMMJ-niRCH. 


3:J!) 


IIRITORJKS. 

„._-Tllo    Ciii.i.lm:; 

,ir>   liay  ('"laiai.v 
•diiMnu'lii'ii  "f  ll:' 

(ir  r>aril':il-  !'■ 
;,ii  «iliUt<'n  li' 
Mink— 'rhf».'ai"i 

,,;_TllO    ('MllM'li.l' 

|oa«l  first  wmV 
casti'Vii  t'*'!''"' 
Iriulo  liiis  Ih'.h 
l-inally  l.-l  tli'^ 
in  Ltikos  ana 
^torior  uf  tlm' 

^nioric'u  nv^i"^' 
Ijr  sunuiiiio  f"l' 
[ee  or  four  "I' 
jxpcditit '"'"'" 


with  ijooils  roeoived  on  trust  t'ntin  a  niorcliant,  I'or  a  vovaij*' 
of  ^'ivat  (laiiufcr  and  hardship,  it  nii|^ht  b»'  of  sovoral  yrars, 
into  tlic  wildornoss. 

On  their  return  tho  merchant  who  ha<l  <,''iven  them  credit 
of  course  received  tho  lion's  share  of  the  skins  <,Mthered 
anmno-  the  Ilurons  or  the  Irocjuois;  the  small  }»(»rtion  left  as 
;i  rec(»nipense  for  their  own  lahour  was  soon  spent,  as  sailors 
spend  their  hard-earned  wa;j;"es  on  their  arrival  in  port; 
and  then  they  stai'ied  on  some  new  adventure  until  linallv 
old  ix'j^o,  infirmities,  or  death  prevented  their  revisiting  the 
fort>st. 

The  modern  '  voyiKjetn^''  who  has  usurped  th«>  place  of  the 
old  '  I'ltiiri'iirK,^  is  so  like  them  in  maimers  and  mode  of  life, 
tliat  to  know  the  one  is  to  become  ac(]uainted  with  the  other. 
In  .-liort,  the  voya^eur  is  merely  a  conreur  subject  to  strict 
law  and  serving  for  a  fixed  pay  ;  while  the  coin-eur  was  a 
voya<,'our  tradin<^  at  his  own  risk  and  peril,  and  acknow- 
itil^injT  no  control  when  once  beyond  tho  pale  of  European 
colonisation. 

The  cannd  is  frequently  called  the  'ship  of  the  desert,' 
and  with  equal  justice  th«'  birch-bai'k  canoe  mi<^ht  be  named 
the  '  camel  of  tho  North  American  wilds.'  For  ifwecon- 
-idt-r  the  rivers  which,  covering  the  land  like  a  net-work, 
ar.'  the  <»nly  arteries  c»f  conununication ;  the  frequent 
laj.ids  and  cataracts;  the  shallow  -waters  fiowing  over 
a  >tony  ground  whose  sharp  angles  would  infallibly  cut  to 
I'i' CCS  any  boat  made  of  wood;  and  finally  the  surround- 
iiiu'  deserts,  where,  in  case  of  an  accident,  the  traveller  is  left 
to  his  own  resources,  we  must  come  to  the  conclusion  that 
ill  such  a  country  no  intercourse  could  p<»ssibly  be  carried  on 
without  a  boat  made  of  materials  at  once  fiexil>Ie  and  tough, 
and  capable  moreover  of  being  easily  repaire<l  without  th(» 
aiil  of  hammer  and  nails,  of  saw  and  plane.  This  invaluable 
material  is  supplied  by  the  rind  of  the  paper-bindi,  a  tree 
whose  uses  in  the  Hudson's  Bay  territories  are  almost  as 
iiiiinitold  as  those  of  the  palm  trees  of  the  tropical  zone. 
Where  the  skins  of  animals  are  rare,  the  pliant  bark,  ]»eeled  off 
ill  large  pieces,  serves  to  cover  the  Iiidian's  tent.  Car«'fully 
><'\vii  together  and  ornamented  with  the  quills  of  the  porcupine, 

z  2 


•MO 


TIIK    I'lM.AK    WoKIJ). 


■  I 


it  is  iiiadc  into  Ijuski'ts,  siic-ks,  dislies,  pliitos,  and  drinliini^f 
cii[)S,  iind  ill  fiK'l  is  in  one  \v»»i*(l  tin*  chiof  uiiitcrial  of  which 
tht!  h<»usL'holtl  iii'tii'K'.s  (»t*  the  Creos  uiv  foniu'd.  The  wood 
servos  lor  the  nianuliictnro  of  oars,  snow-shoes,  and  sled^•^'^; 
and  in  s[»rin^  the  sa[)  of  the  tree  fnrnishes  an  ajj^reeable  beve- 
rage, \vhi(di,  by  boiling'-,  muy  be  inspissated  into  a  sweet  syru|i. 
Beyond  the  Aretic  Circle  tlie  paper-bireh  is  a  rare  iind 
en»oked  tree,  but  it  is  met  with  as  a  shrub  as  far  as  (lt)°  X.  hit. 
rt  ^Tows  to  perfection  on  the  northern  shores  of  Lake  Supi- 
rior,  near  Fort  Williain,  where  the  on  noes  of  the  Hudson's 
]Jiiy  L\>ni[)iiny  are  cliietly  manufactured. 

A  birch  bark  canoe  is  betwi'cn  thirty  and  forty  feet  lonu-, 
and  the  rinds  of  which  it  is  built  are  sewn  toyrether  wilh 
iilaments  of  the  root  of  the  Canadian  fir.  In  case  of  a  hnic 
beiny"  knocked  into  it  durin*;'  the  journey,  it  can  be  patclicd 
like  an  ohl  coat,  and  is  then  again  as  «rood  as  new.  As  it  hus 
a  flat  bottou),  it  does  iu)t  sink  deep  into  the  water;  and  iW 
river  must  be  almost  dried  up  which  could  not  carry  smii 
a  boat.  The  car^'o  is  divided  into  bales  or  j)arcel8  of  (iniii 
1M»  to  loo  jiounds  ;  and  jilth<»ugh  it  frequently  amounts  \<> 
more  than  four  tons,  yet  the  canoe  itself  is  so  liyht  that  tlir 
crew  can  easily  transjiort  it  U{»on  their  shoulders.  This 
crew  ^vnerally  consists  of  eiy-ht  or  ten  men,  two  of  wlunn 
nuist  l)e  experienced  boatnu'U,  who  receive  double  pay,  aii'l 
are  placed  one  at  the  helm,  the  ()ther  at  the  jtoop.  Wlicii 
the  wind  is  fair,  a  sail  is  unfurled  and  serves  to  liyhtiii 
the  toil. 

The  C*anadian  voya<^-eur  combines  the  lio-ht-heartcdiicss 
of  the  Frenchman  with  the  apathy  of  the  Indian,  and  h\> 
dress  is  also  a  mixture  of  that  of  the  Ri>d  skins  and  nt 
the  Eur(tpeau  colonists.  Fre(iuently  he  is  himself  ii  mix- 
ture t>f  (iallic  and  Indian  blood — a  so-called  '  bois-brultV 
and  in  this  case  doubly  li<^ht-hearted  and  unruly.  Willi 
his  woolleii  blanket  as  a  surcoat,  his  shirt  of  stri[it'il 
cotton,  his  jjantaloons  of  doth,  or  his  Indian  stockinj^s  ct 
leather,  his  mocassins  of  deer-skin,  and  his  sash  of  «,'an'lily 
dyed  avoi>1,  in  which  his  knife,  his  tobaceo-bau*,  and  various 
other  utensils  are  stuck,  he  stands  hi<^h  in  his  own  csttriii. 
His  lang'ua<i,"e  is  a  French  jari>-on,  richly  interlarded  Avitli 
Indian    and  Enijflish  words — a  jumble  tit  to  drive  a  <^raiu- 


Till-:    VOYAJJKL'HS    i.ll'K. 


^41 


I  drill  lciu'„' 

il  of  wln<li 

The  >v<i«mI 

esiblo  bevc- 
weotHyrui". 
I  rare  '.iikI 
^(Jt)°X.  lat. 
Luke  SniM'- 

ty  foci  1"1I'j:. 
xrotlior  with 

ISO  of  il   ll"l"' 

I  bo  i»'.iUli"'l 
v.     As  it  lius 
tor;  and  Hi'' 
,t  carry  s\i<'li 
I'ools  of  IVnlll 
,-  amounts  in 
o-lii  that  til.' 
Mors.      This 
\V(»  of  whiiiii 
bio  pay,  aii'l 
|)()op.     Whi'ii 
k    to  light.'ii 

.boarto(bi''>s 
llian,  ami  hi> 
[skills  ami   I't 
lusolf  a   mi>;- 
'  bois-V>i'"l''' 
riily.      Witli 
It    of    stvil'*'-^ 
st<)okiiiu>^  ^'* 
th  of  jifau'lily 
ami  various 
own  ostfriu. 
[rlardod  Avith 
Irivo  a  ynim- 


)ii;iiian  mad,  but  wliicli  lio  tliinks  so  oiiplioiiioiis  that  liis 
tuiiMUf  is  soarct'ly  ovor  at  ri>st.  His  supply  <»f  soiii^'s  ami 
Miiccdott'S  is  iiioxliaustibli',  and  lio  is  always  roady  for  a. 
(Iiiiici'.      His  politonoss    is    oxomplary  :    ho    iiovcr  calls  his 


mirados  othorwiso  than  '  nion  froro,'  and  '  iiion  cousin. 


h 


is  hardly  necessary  to  roniark  that  ho  is  ahio  to  handle  his 
l((.;it  with  the  sumo  ease  as  an  expert  rider  maiia^'os  his 
Imrse. 

When  al'tor  a  hard  day's  work  tliev  rest  for  the  nin-ht,  the 
axe  is  immodiat<'ly  at  work  in  the  nearest  forest,  and  in 
Itss  than  ton  minutes  tho  tent  is  orooted  and  the  kettle 
sinniierinpf  on  the  lire.  While  the  passengers — jterhajts 
sutiu'    ehiof-tradi'r   on  a   voyay;o  to  some  distant  fort,  or  a 


buck  or  a  Richardson  on  hi 


s  w 


ly 


to  tho  Polar  Ocean — are 


w, inning'  ordryiiiii;-  thomsolvos,  the  indefatinable  '  voya^'enrs  ' 
thiiLi'  <ho  anluadod  canoe  ash<»re,  turn  it  over,  and  oxamino  it 
iiiri'lully.  either  to  fasti'ii  a^'ain  some  loose  stitcdies,  or  to 
\K\\\\\  over  some  dama^'od  ])art  with  fresh  rosin.  I'ndor  the 
rnvtr  of  their  boat,  which  they  turn  a^'ainst  the  wind,  and 
with  a  flamin«4;  tiro  in  tho  foroj^'round,  they  then  bid  delianci^ 


tlic  weather 


At 


one  o  ( 


lock 


ic  m  tho  morninu" 


r. 


eve 


eve 


lrV( 


is  called  ;  in  half-an-hour  tho  encampment  is  broken  up, 
u\u\  the  boat  rohnlon  and  launche<l.    At  oiL;"ht  in  the  morning 
;i  h;iit  is  made  for  breakfast,  for  which  throe  cpiartors  of  an 
linur  are  allowed.     About  t\vo  in  the  afternoon  half  an  hour's 
ivst  sutHc(.'s  fova  cohl  dinner.     Ki^ditoon  hours'  work  ami  six 
liiMirs*  rest  make  t»ut  the  day.     Tho  labour  is  incrediltio;  yet 
thi'  "  viiya^'our'  not  «»nly  sii[>ports  it  without  a  mnrinur,  but 
with  the  utnH»st  choi'rfiilnoss.    Such  a  life  re((uires,  of  course, 
iiii  ii'dU  constitution.      In  rowin;^",  the  arms  and  hreast  of  the 
'  viiMijcur'  are  oxerto<l  to  the  utmost:  and  in  shallow  jilaccs  ho 
ihaus  tjic  boat  after  him,  wadinn'  u[»  to  the  knees  and  thighs 
ill  the  water.      Whore  ho  is  oMiticd  to  Uni-c  his  way  aiiainst 
:i  I'lipid.  tho  dran"  rope  must  bo  pulled  over  rocks  jiiid  stumps 
•  if  trees.  throut>-h  swamps  and  thi(dcets;  and  at   the  pnrtii<4'es 
tlir  iui"l;'o  and  tho    boat  have  to   be   carried   over  execrable 
inails  to  the  next   nayiui'able  water.      Then   the   '  voya^-eur  ' 
tiikts    upon     his     back    two    jtacka^'os.    each    wei^hiii|j;'   IM) 
liiiuiids,  and  attaxdiod  by  a  leathern  bolt   running-  over  tho 
t'irchead,  that  his  hands  may  be  free  to  <d(Mr  the   way;  and 


»42 


TIIK    VO\ATl    WORLD. 


siK-li  jM»rtiiM^('s  soiiiL'liiiios  occur  ten  or  eleven  times  in  one 
(lay. 

For  iliese  toils  of  his  wjiiulerin<x  life  he  has  niiiny  eoni[»('ii- 
sations,  in  the  keen  Jippetite,  the  genial  sensation  ofniusi'ulin 
stn'iiy;t}i,  and  the  flow  ol's[»irits  entj'enflerecl  by  labour  in  tlic 
l»ure  and  bracin<^  air.  Surely  many  would  rather  brealli<' 
with  the  '  voya<j^eur '  the  lra;^rance  of  the  pine  forest,  or 
share  his  rest  iiixni  the  borders  of  the  stream,  than  Itiid 
the  monotonous  life  of  an  artisan,  pent  up  in  the  imjiurc 
atmosphere  of  a  city. 

During  the  tirst  period  of  the  American  fur  trade  tin' 
*  ooun'urs  des  b(»is'  usi'd  to  set  out  on  their  adventiu'oiis 
expeditions  from  the  villii<^'e  '  La  Chine,'  one  of  the  ol']"sl 
and  most  famous  settlements  in  Canada,  wliose  name  poiiits 
to  a  time  when  the  St.  Lawrence  was  still  supposed  to  ho 
the  nearest  wa}'  to  China.  How  far  some  of  them  nniy  have 
penetrated  into  the  interior  of  the  continent  is  nnlcnown; 
but  so  much  is  certain,  that  their  re<ijular  expeditions  ex- 
tended as  far  as  the  Saslcatchewan,  2,5(K>  miles  beyond  tin' 
remotest  European  settlements.  Several  factories  or  forts 
protected  their  interests  on  the  banks  of  that  noble  rivir; 
and  the  French  would  no  doubt  have  extended  their  do- 
minion to  the  Rocky  Mountains  or  to  the  Pacilic  if  tin' 
e(»nquest  of  Canada  by  Enj^-land,  in  17(51,  had  not  cnm- 
pletely  revolutionized  the  fur  trade.  The  chanj^e  of  dn- 
miuion  laid  it  jirostrate  for  several  years,  but  our  eiitti- 
prisin^'  countrymen  soon  opened  a  profitable  interonnsr 
with  the  Indian  tribes  of  the  west,  as  their  predecessors 
had  done  before  them.  Now,  however,  the  advent urous 
'  coureur  des  bois,'  who  had  entered  the  wilds  as  a  sciiii- 
iiidependent  trader,  Avas  oblio-od  to  serve  in  the  ]>ay  <d'  tlif 
British  merchant,  and  to  follow  him,  as  his  'voyaui'ur.' 
dei'per  and  deeper  into  the  wilderness,  initil  finally  tin  v 
reached  on  the  Athabasca  and  the  Churchill  River  tin' 
Indian  hunters  who  used  to  sell  their  skins  in  the  sottlo- 
ments  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

This  Company  was  founded  in  the  yoav  1070  by  a  botly  nl' 
adventurers  and  merchants  under  the  patronage  of  Priiuo 
Rupert,  second  cousin  of  Charles  TI.  The  charter  obtaincil 
from  the  (.'rown  was  wonderfully  liberal,  comprisin*^;  not  oidv 


TIIK    (  ANADIAN    I'lK    TKAIUMJS. 


;fjM 


ics  in  <'iif 
y  colMlM'll- 

fmusculiii 
)our  ill  tli<' 
or  bv*'iilli<' 

forest,  or 

than  lt';\«l 
the  iini»uiv 

■  tnule  til" 
Ldvouturous 
•  tlie  ol'l"st 
name  points 
posi'cl  to  Im' 
m  may  I'Uvc 
s  ulllvll<>^vll ; 
(oditious  fx- 
s  boyoiul  till' 
ries  or  t'ort- 
iioble  vivrv; 
'd  tlieir  (lo- 
u-itic    it'   tli<' 
lul    iu»t  t'om- 
,ano'e  ot  dn- 
our  enti'V- 
iuterct'ursf 
predecessors 
adventurous 
as  a  si'uii- 
e  pay  «'f  tli»'^ 
'  voya;jom',' 
tinaily  tli.y 
,1   River    the 
In  the  sottlo- 

by  a  body  ot 
jo-'e  of  Pnii''^' 
Uer  obtaiiif'l 
[jino-  not  only 


iht'  j,'rant  uT  theexclusivo  trade,  l)Ut  also  of  full  territorial  pos- 
session to  all  perpetuity  of  the  vast  lands  within  the  wat*>rslied 
i.t'  lluds(»u's  JJav.  The  iV>mpaiiv  at  once  established  some 
(urfs  aloii^'  tlie  sh(»res  of  the  i^a'eat  inland  S(^a  from  which  it 
derived  its  name,  and  opened  a  very  hiorative  tra<le  with  the 
Indians,  so  that  it  never  ceased  [layiiio-  viih  dividends  to  the 
ruitunate  sliareholders  until  towards  the  elose  of  the  last 
I  eiitury,  when,  as  I  liave  already  mentiiuied,  its  prosperity 
l>e^;iii  to  be  serionslv  att'eeted  bv  the  enery^etie  competition 
uftlie  Canadian  fur  traders. 

In  spite  of  the  floiirishinL,'  state  of  its  affairs,  or  rather 
ln'cause  the  mon<»poly  which  it  enjoyed  aUowed  it  t(>  prosper 
without  cxerti(»n,  the  Company,  as  lon^-  as  Canada  remained 
in  French  hands,  had  combicted  its  affairs  in  a  very  indolent 
manner,  waiting'  for  the  Indians  to  brin^  the  pnxbice  of 
tlii'irchase  t()  the  Hudson's  Bay  settlements, instead  of  follow- 
iiiu'  them  into  the  interi(jr  and  stimulatinjjf  them  by  offeriiiL? 
'^'realer  facilities  for  exeliano-e. 

For  «M<4'hty  years  after  its  fouiuhition  the  Company  pos- 
'd   no    more    than    four  small  forts   on    the    shores   of 
id  onlv   when   the  encroachments  of  the 


sess( 

Hud 


sou  s 


B: 


y 


ai 


Canadians    at   length  roused  it  from  its  torpor,  did   it  re- 
>nlve  likewise  to  advance  into  the  interior,  and  to  establish 


:i  tort  ou 


the 


eastern  shori.'  of  Stur<>-eon 


Lai 


ce 


in 


tl 


le 


year 


1771.  Up  to  this  time,  with  the  exception  of  the  voya<.>e  of 
discovery  which  Hearne  (177<>  71)  made  under  its  auspices 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine  River,  it  ha<l  done  but 
iiitlc  tor  the  promotion  of  j^eoo-raphical  discovery  in  its  vast 
territory. 

Mtanwhilc  the  Canadian  fur  traders  had  become  so  hate- 
ful to  the  Indians,  that  these  savayes  formed  a  conspiracy 
tor  their  total  extiriuition. 

Fortunately  for  the  white  men,  the  siiiiill-pox  broke  out 
;diout  this  time  anion;.'  the  Red-skins,  iind  swept  them  away 
lis  the  tire  consumes  the  parched  yrass  of  the  [n-airies. 
Tliejr  uuburied  corpses  were  torn  by  the  wolves  and  wild 
do^s,  and  the  survivors  were  too  weak  and  dispirited  to  be 
id)le  to  undertake  anvthinj;  ayainst  the  foreio;n  intruders. 
The  Canadian  fur  traders  now  also  saw  the  necessity  of 
'"luhiuiiii^  their  efforts  for  their  mutual  benelit,  instead  of 


341 


TIIK    I'ULAK    \V(>I{I.I». 


ruitiinj^  oiicli  otluT  l>y  an  iiisiiii«'  coiiipctiiioii  ;   aiid  ooiisc- 

qiioiitly  f'orinc'd,  in  1  "H.'J,  a  society  wliicli,  iiinU'r  the  iiiit f 

tlu'  Morth-Wi'st  (VdiipiMiy  (»f  Caiiadii,  at  tii'st  consisttMl  nt 
sixtt'cii,  later  of  twenty  jtartuers  or  sliarelioMers,  some  ot 
whom    lived    in    Canada,    while    the    (»thers   were  seatter.il 


anion'''   tlio    various    stations    in    the   interioi 


Tl 


le   wliolf 


Canadian  fur  trade  was  now  <^neatly  devel(»iM'd;  for  while 
previously  each  of  the  associates  had  Mindly  striven  to  do  as 
much  harm  as  jiossihlo  to  his  present  partners  and  tlms  in- 
directly danni^^'d  his  own  interests,  they  now  all  vi^-onmslv 
united  to  beat  the  rival  Hudson's  Hay  Company  (»ut  <»r  tlir 
Held.  The  a^'ents  of  this  North-West  Company,  in  ddi- 
aneu  of  their  charter,  were  indefatigable  in  explorinti"  tlu' 
lakes  and  woods,  the  plains  and  the  m<»untains,  for  the  |iur- 
pose   of  establishing-  new  tradinj,'-stations  at  all  convenient 


poll 


its. 


The   most    C(del>rated    of    tl 


lese 


I' 


)ioneers    of    commcnc 


Alexander  Mackenzie,  reached,  in  the  year  1  ?><'.►,  the  nioiitli 
of  the  <;reat  river  which  bears  his  name,  and  saw  the  wliitf 
dolphins  o-ambol  about  in  the  Arctic  Sea.  In  a  second  vova^v 
he  crossed  the  Rocky  JVIountains,  and  foilow»'d  the  coursr 
of  the  Fraser  River  until  it  disidiar;4-es  its  waters  into  llir 
Georffian  (jlulf,  ojtposite  to  Vancouver's  Islaml.  Here  ]u- 
wrote  with  perishable  vermilion  the  folhtwine-  inscription 
a  roek-wall  fronting-  the  L»Milf :  — 


I'll 


A.   M; 


H'ki'ii/ie 


ai'i'i\c'(l  tVoni  Caiiiida  Ity  land, 
'2-2  .Iiilv.  iri'-'.  ' 

The  words  were  soon  elfaced  by  Avind  and  weather,  but  tin' 
fame  of  the  expU>rer  will  last  as  loii;^'  as  the  Enjji'lisli  laii- 
j^uai^'e  is  spoken  in  America. 

The  ener<;etic  North-West  Comjiany  thus  rided  over 
the  whole  continent  from  the  Canadian  Lakes  to  the  R'ickv 
Mountains,  and  in  180G  it  even  crossed  that  Ijarvier  inul 
established  its  forts  on  the  northern  tributaries  of  tln' 
Columbia  River.  To  the  nortli  it  likewise  extended  its 
operations,  encroachin|j;-  more  and  more  upon  the  privileyvs; 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  CVunpany,  which,  roused  to  energy,  nnw 
also  pushed  on  its  posts  further  and  further  into  the  interim 'f. 


IKID.S    AM)    \V.\I{ 


.14. 


t'ueriTV,  n"^^' 


ainl  )'st;il»Iis)it'<l  in  \S\2  a  coloiiy  on  tlir  Rt-il  Kivcc  1(»  tlic 
soiitli  <•!'  W'iiiipt'y  liiikf.  thus  driviii!^',  as  it  wire,  ii  sliiirp 
tlii.ni  into  the  siilc  of  it.s  rival.  l>nt  a  iiowcr  liki-  tin"  Noitli- 
W'.'st  Couipany,  wliidi  hail  no  less  than  .'»'•  a'^-rnts,  "'► 
iiiti'i-pn'tcrs,  anil  1,120  voya'^-t'ur.s  in  its  piiy,  and  whose 
( liji't' nianayrrs  used  to  a|»|»t'ar  at  their  annual  nici'tiui^s  ;it 
I'ni't  William,  on  the  hanks  (»!'  Lakf  SujM'i'ior,  with  all  the 
|iiinii>  and  |»ridt'  of  feudal  harons.  was  nctt  inclined  to  tolerate 
this  encroaehnient :  and  thus,  al'tei'  many  (juairels,  a  i'e<^ular 


nil 


V   hroko   out  hi'tween    the    two   parties,   which,  after    t 


Wo 


Villi's'  duration,  led  to  the  ex|>ulsion  of  the  lied  Kivei-  eolo- 
iiists  and  the  murder  of  their  (jiovernor,  Sem[»le.  This  event 
tenk  jtlaet'  in  the  year  ISHJ,  and  is  hut  (Uio  episode  of  tin.' 
Iihunly  feuds  which  continued  to  reii,''n  itetween  the  two 
rival  Companies  until  \s2\.  At  first  siyht  it  may  seem 
•^tiiiuii'c  that  sutdi  a<ts  of  violence  should  take  place  hetwcen 
liiitish  suhjccts  and  on   ih'itish  soil,  hut  then  we  must  coii- 

lci-that,at  that  time,  European  law  luul  little  power  in  the 
Aiiicricau  wilderness. 

'I'he  dissensions  of  the  fur  traders  had  most  deplorahle 
iiiiisiMjuenoe.s  i'ov  the  Jiedskins  ;  for  hoth  C*om]»aiiies,  to  swell 
the  niunher  of  their  adherents,  lavishly  distrihuted  spirituou.s 
lii|Uoi's — a  temptation  which  no  Indian  ciiii  resist. 


SK 


Tl 


K'    W 


hole  of  the  huntiuif-L'Tounds  <»f  the    lSaskat<'hi'wan 


;iiid  Athabasca.  vv<'re  but  one  scene  of  revelry  ;iiid  blo(»(lshed. 
Aiivady  decimated  l)y  the  small-pox,  the  Indians  now  be- 
canu'  the  victims  of  diamkenness  and  discord,  and  it  was  to 
he  feared  that  if  tin;  war  and  its  e(»iise(iuent  denioi'alisatioii 
reiitiuued,  the  most  important  tril)es  would  soon  be  utterly 
swept  away. 

The  tinancesof  thebellio-erent  (,'oin[)anies  were  in  an  e(|ually 
ile|. lovable  state;  the  })roduce  of  tin-  chine  diminished  from 
vcav  to  year  with  the  increase  of  their  expenditure  ;  and  thus 
the  Hudson's  Bay  CV)m[)any,  which  used  tt»  gratify  its  share- 
lii'lders  with  divichnids  of  ."JO  ami  'Jo  per  cent.,  w;is  un:ible, 
tVi.iii  1>!08  to  18 II',  to  distribute  a  single  shilling-  amonn-them. 


At  leni'th   ■wisdom 


iled 


prevailed  over  pussion,  and  llie  enemies 


I  th 


eaiue  to  a  resolution  which,  if  taken  from  the  very  be^-innin;^-. 
Would  have  saved  them  both  a  j^-reat  deal  of  treasure  and 
iiiaiiv  crimes.    Instead  of  coutinuintr  to  swino-  the  tomahawk. 


.'un 


TIIK   POLAK   WORLIJ. 


thry  now  smoked  ilir  oalmnct,  iind  SMiKil^atiuitcd  in  |S2I 
iiiidt'i*  tlx.'  iiJiiiM'  ol'  the  *  liudsoirH  Uny  ('(tmpaiiv,'  siiid  under 
tlu!  win^  of  the  charter.  The  Hritish  (lovernnu'id,  as  a 
dowry  to  Ihe  impoverished  eoupU»,  presented  tliem  with  a 
lieence  «»f  exidusive  trade  throujjfhout  tlie  Avlioh,'  of  thai 
territory  wliieh,  under  the  name  of  the  Hudson's  IJay  and 
Nortli-West  territories,  extends  from  Labrador  to  the 
I'acihe,  and  from  the  Red  River  to  the  Polar  Oeean.  This 
lieenee  was  terminable  in  21  years,  but  in  1S:{H  it  was  renewed 
a^^ain  for  the  same  period.  Tiie  f^-ood  effeets  of  peace  and 
union  soon  became  api)arent,  for  after  a  few  years  tlie  Conj- 
pany  was  enal>k'd  to  pay  half-yearly  dividends  of  tive  per 
cent.,  and  the  Indians,  to  whom  brandy  was  now  no  lonj^'cr 
supplied  unless  as  a  medicine,  enjoyed  the  advantages  of  ii 
nujre  sober  life. 

About  liSlH  the  Imperial  (Jovernment,  fearinj;*  that  Van- 
couver's Island  niij^ht  be  annexed  by  the  United  Statts. 
resolved  to  place  it  under  the  management  of  the  Huij- 
son's  Bay  Company.  This  was  accordingly  done  in  1SK>.  A 
licence  of  exclusive  trade  and  niana^'enient  was  <;Tanted  tni- 
ten  years,  terminable  therefore  in  lHo\)  (the  time  <»f  expira- 
tion (»f  the  similar  licence  over  tlie  Indian  territ(»ry). 

These  were  the  palmy  days  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 
They  held  Rupert's  Land  by  the  Royal  charter,  which  wns 
peri>etual  ;  they  held  Vancouver's  Island  and  the  whole 
Indian  ten'ititry  to  the  Pacific  by  exclusive  licences  termi- 
nable in  18.")!) ;  and  thus  nniintained  luider  their  sole  s\v:iy 
about  4,000,000  square  miles — a  realm  larg'cr  than  the  wlu'lo 
of  Europe. 

For  the  ten  years  ondiiif^  May  HI,  18(32,  the  avcrao'e  net 
annual  profits  of  the  (Nimpany  anioimted  to  81,000/.  on  ii 
paid  up  capital  of  100,000/.,  but  a  portion  only  of  this  income 
Avas  distributed  as  dividend. 

In  18(58  the  Company  was  reconstructed  with  a  capital  of 
2,000,000/.,  for  the  purpose  of  enlarj^'in^-  its  operations — sutli 
as  opening  the  southern  and  more  fruitful  districts  of  the 
Saslvatchewan  or  the  Winipe^if  to  European  colimisation  ;  but 
the  northern,  and  by  far  the  lar<;er  portion  of  the  vast 
domains  over  which,  after  the  dismemberment  of  Britisli 
Columbia  and  the  Stikine  territory,  it  still  holds  swav,  luive 


Ti:AI)IN(i    I'OSTS. 


;U7 


1(t(»  st'vcrc  ii  cliniiit*'  rvcr  to  Itc  ciiltivulc*!,  mid,  imlcss  llu'li* 
iiiiiKTiil  wciilth  1h'  iiiiMlc  aviiiliiltit',  must  r\rv  Uc  what  tlu'V 
,in'  MOW— a  I'ur-lx'arin^  n-^nou  (»rnIooiMy  i»i!K'-foivsts,  iiak»'(l 
liiin'('ii-;^n'ouii«ls,  lakes,  and  iii(»rass«'s. 

Over  this  vast  extent  of  dcsei't  the  ('oni[)anv  has  established 
iil.oiit  l.')!)  tradinjjf  posts,  called  '//*wm«.x,'  or  ' /(m7.x,' whiidi, 
liitwever,  consist  merely  of  a  few  ma^^a/ines  and  dwellin<,'- 
liiiiises  jn'otected  l»y  a  simple  wall,  stockade,  or  palisade, 
Mitliiiently  strong*-  to  resist  anysndch'n  attack  tif  the  Indians. 
Aiiion^jf  the  tribes  with  >vhom  a  friendly  intercoin'se  has  lonj^ 
siil»sisted,  and  whose  fidelity  may  imjjlicitly  be  trusted,  no 
^•iiard  is  over  kept,  and  it  is  only  in  torts  more  recently  built 
in  remote  parts  that  precautiims  are  taken. 

These  forts  arc  always  situated  on  the  bord<'rs  of  a  lake  or 
liver,  both  for  lacility  of  transport  and  for  the  }»urpose  (»f 
ratchin^'  fish,  particularly  tlu>  speci<'s  of  Corei,'onus  or  white- 
ti>h.  which,  from  its  imjiortam-e to  all  the  nativi's  (»f  Rupert's 
Laud  between  the  <^'reat  Canada  Lakes  and  the  Ai'ctic  Sea, 
till'  (*reeH  call  Attihawnu'jj;,  <»r  the  '  reindeer  of  the  waters.' 
hi  many  <»f  the  tradiii*^'  posts  it  tonus  the  chief  food  (^>f  the 
wliile  residents ;  aiul  it  is  asserted  that  thouj^-h  deprived  of 
I'lvad  and  ve«i;etables,  a,  man  may  live  upon  it  for  m(»nths  <»r 
tvcii  years  without  tirinj:jf.  Accordinyto  Sir  J«din  Richardson, 
nil  lish  in  any  country  or  sea  exctds  the  Avhite  fish  in  flavour 
iiiid  wholesomenoss,  and  it  is  the  m(»st  beneficial  article  of 
tlict  to  the  Red  Indians  near  the  Arctic  Circle,  bcin^'  ob- 
♦  iiincd  with  more  certainty  than  the  reindeer,  and  with  les<s 
rliaii<,'o  of  abode  in  summer  and  winter. 

Ivieh  (tf  the  principal  forts  is  the  seat  of  a  chief  factor,  or 
liviit'val  adjninistiator  of  a  district,  and  of  a  chief  trader,  who 
transacts  the  business  with  the  Indians. 

I'x'^ides  these  principal  functioiuiries — out  of  whom  the 
U'lVciMior  is  chosen — the  ('t>mpany  employed,  in  iSdO,  5 
sin-p^ons,  87  clerks,  (J7  postmasters,  l,:2oo  pcrmani'ut  ser- 
vants, and  ^OO  voya;;'enrs,  besides  tem]iovary  em]iloy»'s  of 
'litl'iTcnt  ranks,  so  that  the  total  number  of  persons  in  its  pay 
Avas  at  least  i»,()00.  Besides  this  little  army  of  immediate 
"It'iK'udents,  the  whole  nnile  Indian  jtopulation  of  its  vast 
Ifiritory,  amoinitino;  to  about  1UO,(HIO  hunters  an<l  trappers, 
may  be  considered  as  actively  empl<)yed  in  the  service  of  the 


348 


Tin:  I'oi.Aii  wonij). 


Coiii|»iiiiy.  Armed  vessels,  Ixdli  s;iirm«j:  iiiid  steam,  iiii- 
eiii[t]«»_vr<l  (Ml  llic  north-west  coast,  t<»  ean'v  on  ilic  i'lir  tnnl.- 
Avitli  (he  warlike  natives  of  that  distant  region.  Moi-e  Ihaii 
twcntv  rears  aj-'o  this  trade  ak)ne  iiiivi'  emidnvnient  to  aliont 
1, ()()(>  men,  oecupyin<^"  -!l  permanent  establishments,  or  'ii- 
^•a^'ed  in  navi;^'atinj4"  .")  arme»l  sailing'  vessels,  and  1  armed 
steamer,  varvin-^-  from  lOO  t(>  ^{OO  tons  in  bnrden. 

The  inlhieiiee  of  tJie  Company  over  its  sava^-e  dept'n<l- 
ents  may  justly  be  called  beiietieial.  Both  from  motives  of 
hum 
tl 


initv  and  self-interest,  every  effort   is   made  to  eivili> 


lem. 


N 


o  expen 


y 

ISO  is  SDared  to  preserve  them  from  the  want 


into  Avhieh  their  im]»rovidenee  too  often  plnn^^'es  them  ;  aii<l 
the  examitle  of  an   intlexil)le   strai<4htforwardness  serves  io 


j^^ani 


tl 


u-U"  eon 


fid 


enee, 


Tl 


us  mora 


1 


prep 


d 


»on(lerane(\  ant 


I  tl 


admiration  of  the  Indian  for  the  snjjerior  knowled<^'e  ami 
arts  of  the  Europeans,  explain  how  a  mere  handful  of  white 
men,  scattered  over  an  enormous  territory,  not  onlv  h'ad  i 
life  of  perfect  security,  but  exercise  an  almost  absolute  powtr 
over  a  native  populati<»n  outniindK'rii!«j;  them  at  least  Severn  1 
hundred  times.  The  Indians  have  in  course  of  time  acquired 
many  n«Mv  wants,  and  have  thus  become  more  an<l  more  de- 
pendent on  the  white  trath'rs.  The  sava^'e  hunter  is  no 
hm^'er  the  free,  self-dependent  man,  who,  with(tut  any  forei:;!! 
assistance,  was  able  to  make  and  manufacture,  with  his  own 
hands,  all  the  wea])ons  and  articles  needed  for  his  mainten- 
ance. Without  Knii'lish  tire-arms  and  iishinti"  <4'ear,  witheut 
iron-ware  and  wo<dlen  blankets,  he  could  no  lon|L«'er  exist,  ami 
the  unfortunate  tribe  on  which  the  Oompany  should  cdost,'  its 
stores  would  s<»on  perish  for  want.  '  History,'  says  l*rofessor 
Hind,"^  'does  not  furnish  another  example  of  an  assiMdatieii 
of  private  individuals  exerting*  a  }^o^yerful  inlluence  over  >" 
lari;'e  an  extent  of  the  earth's  surface,  and  administerine- tin  ji' 
affairs  with  such  consunnnate  skill  and  unwaveiinn'  devotieii 
to  the  oriu'inal  objects  of  their  incorpoi-ation.' 

The  standard  of  exchange  in  all  mercantile  transaction^ 
with  the  natives  is  a.  lieaver-skin,  the  relative  value  of  wliieh 
as  orio'inally  established  by  the  traders,  differs  considei;ilil\ 
from  the  presoit  worth  of  the  articles  represented  by  it;  but 


'^   NariMlivr  'jl'thi   ('iiiKiilian  \\>A  JJivrr  IvxiiUiring  IvxiHililiun.  vol.  ii.  \\  "Jl 


KXTKNT    or    IIIK    I"IK    TUAhi; 


:U< 


'ilin,  ill"' 
fur  trii»l<' 
Ion,'  tliiin 

t  to  illM.\l1 

s,   t>r   fii- 

[     1     lIlUU'il 
O    (li'pflltl- 

motivi'S  t'f 
to  civili>'' 
II  the  Avaiit 
tlu'in  ;  siii'l 
i  st'i'vcs   i" 

•0,   illltl    111'' 

vIcmIi^'O  iiinl 
ml  of  wliiti' 
(•Illy  l*';i'l  1 
ohito  pow.r 
cast  st'vrviil 

a 


lie  acfiuivi 
(1  more  <1 


111 


iter  i>   11" 
niy  fovfi::!! 
•itli  bis  own 
lis  luaiuit'ii- 
\vith«'Ut 
■xist,  aiiil 
Idclosr  it> 
Trot; 


ar 


ItT  < 


l)U 


Ivs 


<('>!' 


Ii  assiit.-iat It'll 

[llCO    oVi'l'    >" 

^ioriuu-tliiii' 
tlcvoti"!' 


1":4" 


ItraiisactK'ii- 
liio  oi"  wlii'li 
l.'nil'b 


.'OllSlt 


I  by  it 


l.ut 


tilt'  Indians  an:  avrrsi'  to  cliany-t' 


Tl 


H'v  n-ocivc 


tl 


WW  i>nn 


(•i|p,il  outfit  of  elotliiuii"  ami  aiuniunition  on  cn'dit  in  tlic 
aiiHunn,  to  l»e  n'[)aid  by  ihoir  winter  hunts:  the  amount 
I'litrustt'd  to  each  of  tlic  hunters  varyinuf  with  their  reputa- 
tions for  in(bistry  and  skill. 

The  furs  which,  in  the  course  of  the  year,  are  accumulated 
ill  the  various  forts  or  trading-  stations,  are  transjiorted  in 
the  short  time  during-  which  the  riv«'rs  and  lakes  an*  navi- 
i^alile,  and  in  the  manner  described  iit  the  beu'lnuiuL;  of  the 


•lia'eter,  t«»    York   Factorv, 


<»r 


M 


o(»se 


Fact 


orv.  on 


ILu<l 


son  s 


bay,  to  ^Montreal  or  Vancouver,  and  shipped  from  thence 
mostly  to  Lon(h)n.  From  the  more  distant  }>c>sts  in  the  in- 
tiiior.  the  transport  otten  n'(]uires  several  seasons:  for 
tr.i veiling-  is  necessarily  very  slow  when  ra[>i<ls  and  |>orta^'es 
continually  interrupt  navit^-ation,  and  the  lon^-  winter  puts  a 
st'ip  to  all  interconrse  whatever. 

'Llie  i^'ouds  from  Furope,  consistinti*  (besides  those  men- 
tii'iicd  above)  of  print(.'d  cotton,  or  silk  handkerchiefs,  or 
iMclc-cloths.  of  beads,  and  the  universal  favourite  tobacco, 
iv(jiiin'  at  least  as  much  time  to  lind  their  way  into  the 
iii>tant  interior;  and  thus  the  C/ompany  is  not  seldom  obli^'t>d 
t'lwait  for  four,  live,  or  six  years  before  it  I'cceives  its  returns 
f"!'  the  articles  sent  from  TiOiidoii.  It  must,  h(»we\er,  be 
iiiiitessed,  that  it  amply  repays  itself  for  the  tetliousness  of 
ilrlay.  for  Dr.  Arnistron;^'  was  told  by  the  Fs([uimanx  of  ('a[)e 
I'.iitliurst — ^a  tribe  in  the  habit  of  tradiiiL^'  with  the  Indians 
IVntii  the  Mackenzie,  who  are  in  diri'ct  communication  with 
til''   Hudson's  ]3ay  (Company's  ai^'ents  — that  for  three  silver 

'ty- 


't(  h  as  luLih 


il.  ii.  r 


•Jll. 


t"\  skins — wlucli  somt  times  letcu  as  ni;^!!  a  [»rice  as  twent 
live  or  thirty  <4uineas  a-piece  at  the  annual  sale  of  the  Oom- 
|i;iii\  -  Ihev  had  <>-ot  from  the  traders  cooking-  utensils  which 
iiiiL^'lit  be  worth  eiu'lit  shilliuLi's  and  sixpence  I 

The  value  of  the  skins  annually  imported  into  Fnnland  by 
'il.'  rt.mpany  amounts  to  aliout  i:.o,0(Ki/.  or  -JdO.ooo/.  Be- 
•*^i'U's,  many  of  its  furs  are  bartered  for  liussian-Aiiierican 
l"'llry.  and  a  lart;'e  quantity  is  exported  direct  to  China. 

After  this  l)riet'  account  of  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
iiiiicantile  associations  of  any  a<4'e,  some  remark  (»n  the 
iliiei"  t'ur-bearinff  animals  of  the  Iludsoirs  Bav  territory  mav 
""t    be  without  interest.      Among-    these,    the    bhudc    bear, 


330 


TIIK    VOLWl    WORLD. 


niiislcwd,  or  biivibal  {Ui'siis  americffDns),  is  ono  of  the    most 
Viiluiiblc,  us  his  lonjif  liair — unlike  that  of  the  In'owii  or  the 
wliito  bear — is  beautifully  smooth  and  !:>'l<»ss3%     He  inhabits 
the  forest  re^-ions  of  North  America,  but  mi'^'ates  aceordiii"- 
to  the  seasons.     In  spring  ho  seeks  his  food  in  the  thick<'ts 
alon^'  the  banks  of  the  rivers  or  lakes  ;  in  summer  he  retreats 
into  the  forests  ;  in  winter  he  either  wanders  further  to  tln^ 
south,  or  hollows  out  a  kind  of  lair  beneatli  the  root  of  an 
ovei'tlirown  tree,  where,  as  the  cold  is  more  or  less  severe,  lio 
either   finds  a  retreat  after   liis   excursions,   or  hybernatcs 
buried    in   the    snow.     He  feeds    chiefly  on    berries,    ^raiii, 
acorns,  roots,   ep;i?s,   and  honey;  thoui^-h,  when  pressed  liy 
hunger,  he  will  attack  other  quadrupeds.     He  climbs  upon 
trees  or  rocks  with  j^reat  a^-ility,  and,  beino-  very  watcht'nl. 
is   not   easily   got    at    in   summer.       Sometimes,    however. 
his  caution  brings  about  his  destruction ;  for,  from  fear  of 
some  possible  danger,  or  at  the  slightest  noise,  he  rises  on 
his  hind  legs  to  look  over  the  bushes  under  which  he  liis 
concealed,  and  thus  offers  a  mark  to  the  bullet  of  the  hunter. 
In  the  wintr'r,  when  the  snow  betrays  his  traces,  he  is  nioro 
easily  shot,  and  his  skin  and  flesh  are  then  also  in  the  best 
condition.     In  spite  of  his  apparent  clumsiness  and  stoli<lity. 
the  muskwa  is  more  alert  than  the  brown  bear,  whom  h' 
nearly  approaches  in  size  ;  he  runs  so  fast  that  no  man  ciiii 
overtake   him,  and  is  an  excellent  swimmer  and    clinibcr. 
When  attacked,  he  geiun-ally  retreats  as  fast  as  possible  iiitu 
the  forest ;  but,  if  escape  is  impossible,  he  turns  furiously 
upon    his   pursuers,    and   becomes    (!xceedingly   dangerous. 
Dogs  alone  are  incapable  of  mastering  him,  as  he  is  al\v;iy>< 
ready  to  receive  them  with  a  stroke  of  his  forepaw  ;  but  tin  y 
are  very  useful  in  driving  him  up  a  tree,  and  thus  giving  tin' 
hunter  an  ojiportunity  of  hitting   him   in   the  right   spot. 
When  in  a  state  of  captivity,  the  baribal,  in  his  mild  iiml 
good-humoiu'ed  disposition,  is  distinguished  from  the  bvnwn 
and  white  bear.     His  fur  is  also  much  more  valuable  tlnin 
that  of  the  brown  bear. 

It  is  not  yet  fully  ascertained  whether  the  Americiui 
broAvu  bear  is  identical  with  that  of  Enrojx' ;  the  resem- 
blance, however,  is  close.  \n  summer  he  wanders  to  tlu' 
shores   of  the  Polar   Sea,  and  indulges  more   frequenily   in 


Till-:    HACOO.V. 


3-.  I 


the   most 

)\vn  or  tlu' 

0  inhabits 

acc'ordiii'j; 

u>  thickets 

herotroats 

•thor  to  tho 

(  root  of  an 

s  severe,  lio 

hvhernatt's 

ries,    ^n-iiiiK 

pressed  hy 

L-Uiiiljs  \n"^" 

i-y  watchful. 

's,   howeviv. 

from  fear  of 
he  rises  on 

hieh  lie  h^s 

f  the  hiintfi'. 

5,  he  is  moro 

)  in  the  best 

xnd  stoli.litY. 

n%  whom  li'' 
no  man  inn 

Aw\   ehmbcv. 
possible  int(> 
■ns  fm-iensly 
(hmgertm?. 
he  is  ahviiys 
iiw;  but  t hoy 
us  fi'iviH'-f  till' 
rigbt   ^I'ot- 
his  mild  aii'l 
,ni  the  brown 
aluablo  tlum 

iie    American 

the  rescni- 

[nders  to  lb'' 

froqnently  i" 


iiuimal  food  than  the  baribal.  Tic  is  even  said  to  attack 
iiiMii  when  pressed  by  Inino-er;  but  all  those  whom  Sir  John 
Ifitiiardson  met  with,  ran  away  as  soon  as  they  saw  him. 

As  the  «iTisly  bear  {Uisks  /I/vm)  is  found  on  the  Koelcy 
Mountains  up  to  the  latitude  of  (>1°,  he  u!id(tnbtedly  deserves 
ii  place  amon^- the  sub-arctic  animals.  The  skin  of  this  most 
formidable  of  the  ursine  race,  who  is  about  nine  fe«'t  lono-  and  is 
siiid  to  attain  the  wei^-ht  of  eig-ht  hundred  pounds,  is  but  little 
pii/e<l  in  the  fur  trade.     He  is  tin.'  undoubted  monarch  of  his 


n;i 


five  wilds,  for  even  the  savativ  bison  Hies  at  his  a 


ppr 


o 


iicli 


Altlu»u^h   the  racoon    {Pronjou    hitar)    is   more  commoidy 

I'dund  in  Canada  and  the  United  States,  yet  he  is  also  an 

iiiliiibitant  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  territ(»ries,  where  he  is  nn't 

with  up  t(»  •'A'i^  N.  hit.     This  interesting^  little  animal,  which, 

like  the  bears,  applies  tlie  sole  of  its  foot  to  the  <j;-round  in 

w;ilkin<^,  has  an  averaj^-e  leuf^th  of  two  feet  from   the   nos<» 

to  the   tail,  which  is  about   ten  incdies  lon^*-.     Its    colour   is 

Ufcyish-brown,  with  a  dusk}'  line  runnino*  from  Mie  top  of  the 

licinl   down   the  middle  of  the  face,    and  endinff  below  the 

tyrs.     The  tail    is   very  thickly  covered  with  hair,  and  is 

aniudated    with    several    black    bars    on    a     yellowish- whiter 

La-nund.     Its  face  is  very  like  that  of  the  fox,  whom  it  equals 

in  (•uiniin<j,  while  its  active  and  playful  habits  resemble  those 

if  the  monkey,      fts   favoiu'ite  haunts  are  the   woods,  near 

stiv;iMis  or  lakes,  for  one  of  its  most  marked  peculiarities, 

t'nmi  which  it  has  received  its  specitic  name  of  Infm;  or  the 

washer,  is   its    habit  of  pluuo-iny    its    dry  food    into  water 

Ih  fore  eating'  it.     The  racoon  devours  almost  anythin<,^  that 

ooinos  in  his  way — fruits  and  o-rain  of  all  sorts,  birds'  nests, 

mice,   o-rasshoppers,    beetles :    while    the    waters  yield    him 

ti>liis,  crabs,  and  oysters,  which  he  is  very  expert  in  ollenin^^ 

His  fur  forms  no  inconsiderable  article  of  commerce,  nnd  is 

vtry  fashionable  in  Russia.      In  ISII,  111,'U()  racoon  skins 

Were  imported  into   St.  IVtersburo-,    and    more  than  half  a 

niillion   were    stajded    in   Leipzig",    intended,    no   doubt,    for 

^iiiULi'u'ling  across  the  frontier. 

The  I'ur  of  the  American  g-lntttui,  or  w<»lverine,  is  much 
ns.d  for  mutt's  and  linings;  yet,  from  its  being  a  notorious 
1  'hlirr  of  their  traps,  the  animal  is  as  much  hated  by  the 
Iii'lian  hunters  as  the  dog-fish  bv  the  northern  fishermen. 


^-,1 


TIIK    l'(U-AU    WOULD. 


Tlir  llud.soii's  Jiiiv  territories  ciiniiot  boiist  of  the  sable,  l»u1 
the  Aiiierietin  jtiiie  iiiiivteii  {Mnrfrx  tih'niii.rn)  is  not  iimeli  in- 
ferior ill  Viihie,  iis  its  ihirk  brown  fur  is  reiiiiirkably  hue,  tliiek, 
iiml  <_:lossy.  It  frequents  tlie  woody  <listriets.  where  it  preys 
on  l)ii(ls,  and  all  the  snniller  (|ua(lru])e<ls  from  the  hare  to 
the  mctiise.  Even  the  sqnirrel  is  ineapal)le  of  eseapinj,^  tlio 
l>ine  marten,  and  alter  liavin;^"  vaulted  and  elindx'd  from  tree 
to  tree,  sinks  lit  last  exhausted  into  its  }4Tii>e. 

The  p(dcan,  or  woodshoelc  (Mitrfrx  rtiiKu/iiifiisj,  the  lar<;'est 
of  the  marten  family,  is  also  the  one  Avhieh  most  richly  sup- 
plies the  fur  market.      It  is  tounrl  over  the  whole  of  North 


Ai 


n erica,  and  ti-enera 


lUv  1 


ives 


in  burrows  near  the  banks  ef 


rivers,  us  it   princii)ally  I'eeds  on   the  small  (piadrupeds  that 
freipKMit  the  Avater. 


Sevei'al  species  < 


•  I"  ermine  inhal)it  the  Hnds<»irs  Bay  ler 


I'l- 


tories,  but  their  skins  are  of  no  ^i'reat  importance  in  the  fur 
ti'ade.  Iiike  many  other  species  (»f  the  marten  family,  they 
eject,  when  irritated  (»r  alarmed,  a  tluid  of  a  fetid  odour;  bill 
in  this  respect  they  are  fai-  surpassed  by  the  chin^'a  {Mrplilii^i 
r/iiiHid),  whose  secretion  has  so  intolerable  a  smell  that  tln' 
least  (juantity  sufhces  to  pi'oduce  nansi'a  and  a  sense  i>\' 
sutt'ocation.  This  animal  is  frequently  found  near  llndsnirj. 
Bay,  whence  it  extends  further  to  the  north.  In  s])ite  of  tlic 
formidable  means  of  defence  with  which  it  lias  been  ariiicd 
by  nature,  it  is  of  use  to  man,  for  its  black  and -white  striiMil 
fur  (which,  as  may  easily  bo  supposed,  m-ver  appears  in  tlh' 
European  market)  provides  the  Indians  with  covering- 
tobacco  pouches.  Before  seizin^' the  chinj^'a,  they  irritati'  it 
with  a  lon<4'  switch,  until  it  has  I'epratedly  emptied  the  Lilmi'l^ 


er 


ILI'- 


from  whi(di  the  noxious  vapour  issues  ;  then  suddenly  s[)rii 
in<4'  upon  it,  th"y  hold  it  up  by  the  tail  and  despatch  it. 

The    miidc     [\'i.<ini    iiinrriciiiiiis).  another    member   of  tin 
\veasel   family,    is    one    of  tin,'   most    imp(»rtant    fur-l)e;ii'iiiL 


animals  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  territories.  It  resembles  tli 
small  Kuropean  fish-otter  ( I'/xo*/  I nivvoJa),  but  its  skin  is  Im 
nn»re  valuaV»le — ihebrttwu  IniirAvitli  which  it  is  covered  beiii; 


much  softer  and    thicker.      As   its  t 


oes  are  connec 


ted 

small  wi'b,  it  is  an  excellent  swimmer,  and  as  formidab 
the  salmon  or  trout  in  the  water  as  to  the  hare  on  land. 


hv  ;i 


The  Canadian   lish-otter  {Lulra    miKnl 


iriixis) 


far 


sni'iiiissf 


VVR  \]\].\\l\Sr,    ANIMAI, 


:i;:\ 


■  sable,  l)ul 
t  unub  in- 

.VI'  it  pvovs 
he  Uiivo  t"» 

scai>iu;j:  ^^"' 
'd  from  tvtc 

tlio  l;iV!A<'^t 
t  vu'bly  siii>- 
)le  of  Koitli 
lu'  baiilv!^  (if 

rs  liny  I'-ivi- 
ce  in  tbi'  fur 
.,  fiunily,  ^ '-"'}■ 
ia  odour;  but 

nu'll  that  tlir 
cl    a   sense   I't 


Hudson's 
f  tlio 


>ite  (' 


\('!ir 

|ln  SI 

^is  Vh'ou  iivnitMl 

•wbite  stvii'f'l 


m 


iirs  ill  ^1> 


oovevniU' 


vX 


\hv\  irvilat''  U 
tie'dtbe'^-V'>"'1^ 
Iddeidy  spriiii- 
q.atcb  it. 
"inbei-  « 
lit  fuv-VM-.iviii'. 
d,l,'<  til 
Its  sl<iii  i>  i'l 


Ihi' 


roseii 


('(»vei'»M 


1  Im'IU: 


fovinit 


t»Ml 


hv  u 


blblr  1. 


oil 


laud. 


far  !^'»ri 


i;l^-<< 


Muro} 


)ean  s|M'cit'S. 


both   ill  si/c  and  in  the  iK'aiitv  of  it; 


M'lossy  brown  skin.  It  oeciirs  as  far  nortliwards  as  (>(>'  or 
f.7  iat.,  and  is  pfpiuTally  taken  l»y  sinking-  a  stoel  trap  near 
llif  I'loiitli  of  its  Imrrow.  It  has  the  ]ia1>it  of  sliding-  or 
.  limhi;ifif  t(>  the  top  of  a  ridi^'o  of  snow  in  winter,  or  of  a  sloping- 
III! list  bank  in  snniiner,  where.  lyiii;4'  on  the  Ijelly,  with  the 
iMic-feet  bent  backwards,  it  ^ives  itself  with  the  hind  lens  an 


iiiil>uls< 


w 


hieh   send;,    it   swiftlv  down  the  eminence 


Tlii> 


M'lldl 


•1-1m>v  sport  it  eoiitinnes  for  a  lonu"  tim 


Tlie  red  fox  (  r"//'c.s'y"/'/r//,s).  which  is  tbnnd  tliron;,diont  the 
llinlson's  Bav  territories,  has  likewise  a  much  Hiu'r  fnr  than 


It 


»f  a   bi'itild   f( 


d 


th 


niir  common  io\.  it  is  ot  a  i»i'i;^lit  terrnn'inons  re<i  on  tiie 
IhMil.  bai'k,  and  sides  ;  beneath  the  chin  it  is  white,  while 
till'  throat  and  nock  are  <»f  a  dark  •^rey,  and  the  under  parts  of 
till'  ImkIv,  towanls  the  tail,  are  of  a  very  i>ale  red.  The  crossed 
fdx  <'iiin's  ilrrnssiif IIS],  th[is  named  from  the  black  cross  on  its 
^IlllllIdcl•s.  is  still  more  valuable  ;  its  skin — the  colour  (»f  which 
i<  II  sort  of  Lirey,  resulting'  from  the  mixture  of  Idack  and 
wliitc  hair — lH'in<4'  worth  four  or  Hve  ^'uineas.  Peltry,  still 
iiiMif  costlv.  is  furnished  bv  the  black  <»r  silvery  fox  (<'iiiii.< 
•h-'f  iit'iliis),  whose  copious  and  beautiful  fur  is  of  a  rich  and 
■>liiiiiii^'  Itlack,  or  deep  brown  colour,  with  the  Ioniser  or  ex- 
ti'vinr  liairs  of  a  silvery  white,  rnfortunately  it  is  of  such 
r;irt' occurrence,  that  not  nnire  than  four  or  tive  areaniinaliy 
lii'oiiLjht  to  a  trading'  post. 

The  Canada  lynx,  or  pishu  (/////"'  canafleiisiK),  is  smaller 
t!::!!!  the  European  species,  but  has  a  finer  fur.  those  skins 
l"iiii^'  most  valued  which  ap[)roach  to  a  ])ale  or  whitish 
'"loiiv.  and  on  which  the  s[>ots  are  most  distinct.  It  chiolly 
\rr\\<  (III  the  hare  ([jijhis  h niirirniiiis),  whicli  is  not  much 
l^ii'ucr  than  a  rabldt,  and  is  found  on  the  banks  ol'  the 
M;ii'kiii/i.'  as  far  north  as  (IS''  or  (>!>". 

Still  nearer  to  the  P(»le,  the  ice-hart,'  (l.i  /ms  (jhiriiills)  ran<^'es 
i'^  fiir  as  the  Parry  Islands  (7')'  X.  lat.i,  where  it  feeds  on  the 
"i''tic  willdw,  and  other  hii;'h  northern  jdants.  Its  favouriti' 
■  '^oits  lire  the  stony  districts,  ^vhere  it  easily  finds  a  refuiie  ; 
'!!  winter  it  lmrr<»ws  in  the  snow.  In  summer  its  back  is 
-I'vi^li  white.  l»ut  as  the  cold  increases,  it  becomes  white. 
"'.til  the  exi^eption  of  the  tips  of  the  ears,  which  remain  cou- 
••'iitl\  biark. 

A  A 


■waasB 


.'{ 5  \ 


Tin:    rOLAU    WnlilJ). 


Fovincrly  tlic  liciivcv  (fasfor  flhrr)  wiis  tin-  most  iinportjiiii 
f»f'  <lir  riii'-ln'iiriii^'  iniiin;ils  of  the  lIudsoM's  U\\y  territories. 
Ill  the  ye;ir  17l->,  127J><)(l  beiiver  skins  were  ex)>orte«l  i'roiii 
Moiitreiil  in  fill  Itochelle.  and  2<»,700  by  the  llu(ls(»irs  liiiv 
I'oiiipany  to  Loiuhdi.  At  present,  the  ox])ortiiti(»u  lianllv 
innounts  to  ono-tliirdof  tliis  (|niintity.  As  tlio  beaver  cliiellv 
lives  oil  the  barks  of  tlie  Avillow,  the  beech,  and  the  poii];ii'. 
it  is  not  found  l)eyond  llie  forest  region  ;  but  alon;^  the  bani<s 
of  the  Maeken/ie  it  readies  a  A'ery  hiyh  hititude. 

The   musk  rat,  oiwhitra  or  musquash   {  Fifnr  zlhrtlilniK)  — 
"wliieli  is  about  the  sizf  of  a   small  rabbit,  and  of  a  re(hlisli- 
bi-o\vn  eolour — is  calhMl  l»v  tlu'  Indians  the  vounwr  brotlitr 
of  the   beaver,   as   it    has    similar    instincts.       Essentially  ;i 
bank  haunt in^-  animal,  it    is  never  to  be  seen  at  any  '^\vu\ 
distance  from  the  watci',  where  it  swims  and  dives  ■with  cuii- 
suinmate  ease,  aith'd  ^reatlv  bv  the  webs  ^vllich  conn(H-t  tin 
hinder  tucs.      Tt   drives    a   larj^-e   series   of  tunnels   into  tli>' 
bank,  brinichini4'  out  in  various  directions,  and  haviui;' scm  rui 
entram-es.  all  of  which  open   uii(b'r  the  surface  of  the  watrr, 
If  the  aniinal  hap[»ens  to  live  upon   a   marshy  and  unifdiiiilv 
wet    s(»il.   it    bi'coiiies  a    i)uilder,  and  lives   in    curiously  ((in- 
structed   huts,   from  three  to  tour  f«H't   in   height,  ])last('rid 
with  ^•l•eat  neatness  in  the  inside,  and  streuii'theued  <>xteni;i!lv 
Avith  a   kind  (»f  basket-work  of  rushes,   carefully  interliKcl 
toLj-ether.      The  judi^inent  of  the  animal  shows  itself  in  tli' 
selection  of  the  site,  invariably  choosiiin'  some  "frouud  iibcV' 
the  reach  of  inundation,  or  else  raisiny*  its  hut  on  an  artilici;!' 
fomidat ion  :    for,    tlioiiui'll   obli^^'ed    to    reside   near   Hat.  siil- 
merLi'eil  banks,  whei'e  the  soft  soil  is  full  vi'  nourishing'  V""i^- 
it  riMjuires  a  dry  home  to  rest  in. 

Fii  winter  the  mus(piash  villau'es- — f(U'  the  huts  are  >('iii' • 
times  built  in  such  numbers  tou'»>ther  as  to  deserA'e  that  iiiiiii 
— are  ^^ciuu-ally  c(tvered  with  thick  snow,  under  \\lii(li  tli> 
ro(h'nt  is  able  to  j»rocure  wat(U",  or  to  reach  the  2»ro\i>i"i'' 
laid  up  in  its  storehouse.  Thus  it  lives  in  ease  and  jilciity. 
for  the  marten  is  too  averse  to  the  "water,  and  the  otter  t^' 
bulky,  to  jtenetrate  into  its  tunnels.  ]>ut  when  tlie  sue" 
melts,  and  tlie  huts  of  the  miis(piash  appear  above  the  Lireiiii'l. 
tlu^  Indian,  takiiie-  in  his  hand  a  h\V'j;('  four-barbed  >ii(;ii'. 
steals  up  to  t  lie  liou>e.  and   'Iriviii;^'  his  wea[»ou   t  liroiiuh '' 


TIIK    .MrS(MASir. 


35.: 


ovvitor'us. 

ion  liiinll.v 
ivor  cli'u'lly 

ir  the  banks 


f  a  ivAtlish- 
iio-or  bvotli'i' 

at  any  ii'i"''''^ 
^-os  Nvith  <ini- 
i  coiin(H-t  tin 
ai'ls   ini'»  ^''' 
laviniJi;  srvfi';il 
of  the  ^vatl  r. 
ai\<"l  nnitoiMiil} 
L'uvionsly  i<'ii- 
lii,  plast.'iva 
(>a  (^xtcviKill; 
lly   intcvVair'l 
itself  in  1^"' 
.■roniul  nl^'V' 
,n  anavtiluM'i' 
leav  tlal.  snl.- 
uvisliiii'^"  v""'^- 

uts  avf  >"i"'- 
■wo  ili-at  iiaii; 


walls,  is  sure  lo  jiicrcc  the  animals  insiil<\  lloMin^-  the  spear 
liniily  with  one  liainl.  lie  takes  liis  tctiiialiauk  I'miii  liis  l»elt, 
dashes  the  house  to  pi(H'es  ami  secures  the  iimiat rs.  Another 
method  enij>loye<l  hy  the  Indians  to  eapture  the  mns(|nash,  is 
tiihlock  uj)  the  (liflerent  entrances  to  their  tunnels,  and  then 
to  intercept  t lie  animals  as  they  ti'v  to  eseape.  Sometimes 
the  ^ain  is  used,  hut  not  very  frequently,  as  the  mus()uash  is 
so  wary,  that  it  dives  at  the  least  alarm,  and  darts  into  one 
(>['  its  holes.  The  traj»,  however,  is  th(»  ordinary  means  of 
destruction.       The    soft    and   j^lossy    fur    of   the   mus(|uash, 


tliouti-h  wor 


th 


no  more  than   from  (I*/,  to  !>«/.,   is  still   a   not 


inconsiderahle  article  of  trade,  as  no  less  than  half  a  million 


US  are  annually  imjiorted  into   l*]n<;"land  for  liat  mal<i 


no* 


iiei'  is  there  any  fear  of  the  nnisijuash  bpinn"  extirpated,  in 
spite  of  its  many  enemies,  as  it  nniltiplies  very  fast,  and 
is  found  near  every  swamp  or  lake  with  grassy  hanks,  as  far 
as  the  eonfines  (d'lhe  P(dar  Sea. 


J...C..  „i,ai. 


A     \     J 


CHAPTER  XXVI rr. 


TKK    (KKK    INDIANS,  (»K    EYTlIlNYrWl' K". 

Tlio  various  Tribes  of  tlic  d'cis — 'J'Ik  ir  Coiii|Ui>-l.>-  and  >.uli>(quriit  ])ii'(al-  i  i 
Wars  witii  tlio  lilackfci  t — Tlicii'  ('li.u'aftcr — TattiMiiii^'  -Their  Dress-Fomli 
for  liieii-  Clilldren  -  Tile  Cree  Cradle  -  Vapmir  I!atlis     flames — Tiieir  veli::; 


Ideas     'I'iie  Cree  'I"  irtariis  aiii 


Kh 


ri'^HE  various  ti'ibos  of  tlio   Creos,  or  Eytliinvmvnk,  riitiu' 


I 


from  the   Rocky  Mountains  and  the  plains  of  tli 


('  Mis- 


katchowaii  to  the  swampy  shores  of  l[udson's  Bay.  To\v;ii<l> 
the  west  and  north  they  border  on  the  Tinne,  towards  tin' 
east  and  south  on  the  Ojibbeway  or  8auteurs,  who  bi'li'iii:' 
like  them  to  the  ^-reat  famih'  of  the  Lenni-lenape  Indiiitis. 
and  inhabit  the  lands  between  Lake  Winipog-  and  Laki' 
Superior. 

About  sixty  years  since,  at  the  time  when  Napoli"ii 
was  deluo-ing  Euro2>e  with  blood,  the  Crees  likewise  ])lii.vi'(l 
the  part  of  contiuerors,  and  subdued  even  more  exleusivf. 
thoup,'h  less  vahiable  domains. 

Provi'b'fl  wifb  rire-ariiis,  wbich  at  that  tiiiirwerc  uiil<ii""ii 


\v.\i5s  (V  Tin:  (  ni:i:s. 


;io7 


fMP'^'-''--'- 


vnvnl<.  vunu-'' 

of  tho  Sas- 

y.    Towaril> 


a\>(' 


Tn<nan>. 
1   Lak. 


illKI 


'11 


Kai 


»ii 


Iron 


'NVISC 

ox 


avi'ii 


U'U>i 


>rt' 


\iii 


IsU' 


vc 


,\V1I 


to  llii'lr  in>ith('i-ii  and  Avt'strrn  iiciy'liboiii's,  tlirv  inlviiiictMl 
lis  far  as  the  Arctic  Circle,  iiii|M»siiiy'  tribute  on  the  various 
trilx's  ut'the  Tinm''.  liut  their  triumphs  were  not  luore  Jurubh.' 
than  those  (tf  the  «4'roat  FiUrojtean  c»»n(juer<tr. 

The  sinall-}M>x  bi'oke  <»ut  anion^'  them  and  swept  them 
awav  l>v  thuusunds.  JNIeaiiwliile  tlie  Tinne  tribes  had  n;- 
mained  untouchi'd  by  this  terrilde  scour^v  ;  and  as  theayvnts 
<if  the  Hudson's  iJav  Company,  a<lvancin'''  further  and  further 

V  1  ft  ~ 

til  the  west  and  n(»rth,  had  likewisi'  nnnle  them  ar(|uainted 
with  the  use  of  tire-arms,  thcv  in  tlieir  turn  bccMuie  the 
iiLii^ressors,  and  drove  the  Crees  b«'foi'e  them.  Their  former 
(■nn(|uerf>rs  now  partly  min'rate^l  to  thi'  south,  and  leavini;  the 
I'nicst  region,  wliere  they  had  hunted  the  reimU'er  and  the 
(Ik,  spread  over  the  prairies  of  the  Saskatchewan,  whore, 
iiH'unted  on  liorsoljack,  they  nctw  pursued  the  lierds  of  bison. 
lint  in  their  new  abodes  they  became  enyai^'ed  in  constant 
feuds  with  their  new  neighbours  the  Assiniboins  and  Jiiack- 
tirt.  Avlio  of  course  resented  their  intrusion. 

The  romance  in  which  tlio  manners  and  character  of  tlie 
linlians  are  portrayed  nii^'ht  lead  us  to  attribute  to  those; 
[Muple  a  loftiness  of  soul  for  which  it  would  be  vain  to  look 
ill  the  present  day,  an«l  which  without  much  scei»ticism  wo 
'nay  assert  they  never  really  possessed.  Actions,  prompted 
I'lily  by  the  caprice  of  a  l>arbarous  people,  have  boon  con- 
sidered as  the  results  of  rotinod  sentiment  ;  and  savayo 
emiuin^',  soon  through  the  false  medium  of  i)rejudiee,  assumed 
tlie  nobler  proportions  of  a,  far-sig'hted  policy.  Ihit  though 
the  history  of  the  wars  of  the  Indians  among-  themselves  and 
with  the  Europeans  ati'ords  but  foAv  instances  of  heroism,  it 
aKeunds  in  traits  of  revolting  enielty.  and  in  jiictures  of  in- 
ileseribablo  wretchedness. 

A  largo  party  of  Blackfeet  once  made  a  successful  loray 
ill  the  territory  of  the  Crees.  Hut  meanwhile  the  latter  sur- 
I'vised  the  camp  whore  the  aggressors  had  loft  their  wives 
and  children  ;  and  thus,  when  the  lilackfeet  returned  to  their 
tints,  thoy  found  desolation  and  death  where  they  loc»kod 
t'lr  a  joyful  welcome.  In  their  despair  thev  cast  awav  tlioir 
aims  an4  their  booty,  and  retired  to  the  mountains,  whore  for 
three  days  and  nights  they  wailed  and  moui-nod. 

ill  the  year  1810  a   bloody  war  broke  (»ut  between   the 


3a!« 


Till':    I'OLAK    UtiKLD. 


CriM's  inxl   ilit'   l>l!i('l<rt'('t,  jirisinu'  iis  in   u't'iit'iMl  IVinii  a  vt'i'V 
trilliiiii'  ciiiisc.      IN-iico  wiiHiit  lrii;^lli  ctuK'ludtMl,  l)ul  wliilf  tlif 
two  iiutidiis  wti'c  ct'lt'linitiiin-  this  lorliiiiiilr  fvciit  willi  ;^iiiiHs 
and   I'iK'cs,  ii   Crt'c  stole  i\   Vii^'^cd   hlaiikt't,  iiiid   a  iit'W  li^lit 
iiiiincdiatclv  bcoiiii.      lietiii'Miiii>'  lioiiic   the    IJlacKit't't    met  ;i 
Crcc  cliicl'taiii  with  two  of  his  warriors  iiiid  kiliod  them  after 
a  short   altereatioii.      Soon   after    the  Crees    surprised    and 
luurderetl   soiiu.'  of  the    Hhiekfeet,  and   thus  the  war  ra^vd 
Hi(»ro   furiously  than   ever.       Sir    (Jeor^-e   Sinipsiiu,  who   was 
travtdliu^'  throu^li  tlii'  eountry  at    the    time,  visited  the  hut 
of  a  C'ree  who  laid  heeu  wouudetl  iu  theeoullict  at  the  peaci- 
meetiu|4'.      As  iu  iiis  tli;_;ht   la;   heut  over   his  liorse's   ueek.  a 
hall  had  stnu'k  hiui  ou  the  rif^'lit  side,  aud  reuiaiued  stiekinu' 
ut.'ar  the  artieulatiou  of  the  left  shoulder.      In   this  eouditi<>ii 
he  had  already  lain  for  three  and   thirty  days,  his   left  arm 
frightfully  swollen,  aud  the  rest  of  his  hody  euuiciated  to.i 
skeleton.     Near  the  dyiu^"  sava^'O,  whosi'  glassy  eye  and  con- 
tracted features  spoke  of  the  dreadful  pain  of  which  he  di>- 
dained  to  s[>eak,  hiy  his  child,  reduced   to  skin  and  hones, 
and  e\pressiu<jf    by   a   [»erpetual    moaning-  tlie  pane's  of  ill- 
ness aud  hun^'er,   while   most  to  be  pitied   perhaps  of  this 
wretched  familv  was  the  wife  aud  mother,  who  seemed  t'l 
be    siukin;4"    under    the    double    load  of    care    and    faliuuc. 
During-  tlie    ni<»'ht  the   *  mediciue-num  '  was    busy    beatiiiii' 
his  ma^ic  drum  and  driviun'  away  the  evil  spirits  from  the 
hut. 

AlthoUL»'h  the  Crees  show  ^reat  fortitude  in  euibuiii'j 
hunger  aud  the  other  <.'vils  incident  to  a  hunter's  life,  vet 
any  unusual  aci-ideut  dispirits  them  at  once,  and  they 
seldom  venture  to  meet  their  enemies  iu  open  Avarfare,  w 
even  to  surprise  them,  unless  they  have  a  i^i-eat  advantiiu'c 
in  point  of  numbers.  Instances  <jf  personal  brav(.'ry  like  tlnit 
of  the  Esquimaux  are  rare  indeed  among  them.  Supcrier 
in  personal  appearance  to  the  Tinne,  they  are  less  honest, 
and  thoum'li  perhaps  not  so  much  yiven  to  falsehood  as  tlie 
Tinne,  are  more  turbulent  and  more  prompt  to  invade  the 
rights  of  their  c(.»antrymen,  as  well  as  of  neiL>hbt>urino-  nations. 

Tattooinjiif  is  almost  universal  amon*^  them.  The  women 
are  in  general  content  with  having  one  or  two  lines  drawn 
frt»m   the  corners  of  the  mouth  t(»wards  the   any'les  of  the 


II.M'.ITS    ol"    TIIK    (  KKKS. 


A  V.) 


\\\  il  Vi'l'V 
wliilc  ill.' 
itll  '^••■lliirs 
lU'W  tii^lit 
.('t    iiu't   a 

hem  at'tt'V 
risctl  ami 
war  ra'^i'.l 
,  who  \v;is 
I'd  tlu'  lint 

the  i>t'ar. - 
e's   iH't'l<.  ;i 

s  eoiuliti"" 
is  U't't  arm 
iciatod  to  :i 
ye  and  ouii- 
ik'h  lu'  'li>- 
aud  boiH's, 

)iui«j,'s  of  ill- 

)S  of  this 

seeint'"^  t'l 

id    fatii^uc. 

sy    beatiiiii' 

j  from  the 


lap 


■  wcr  Jaw,  lull    suiiic  of  ihc  hd'Ii  liiisr   Ihfir  li.nji. -;   ruvi-r'-il 


with  lilies   and   liyiin 


II 


SCClllS     to 


ItC    CI  I 


iisiilcr.'il   l»v  must 


i.itliiT  as  a,  [irodf  ol'  I'oiiraL;"*'  than  an  oriiaiiH'iit.  as  the 
<<|M'riitioM  is  Ixitli  ]»ainl'iil  and  tcdiniis.  The  lin*'s  on  tin' 
I;mi'  art'  foniH'd  hy  dt-xti'i'misly  niniiiii^"  an  awl  niid«'r 
iIm'  fiitirlt",  and  llim  drawiiin'  a  cord,  <li|>|icil  in  cli;irco;il 
I  water,  tliroiiyh  the  ciiniil  t  liMs  foniicil.  'I'hi-  |Miiiit  iircs 
nil  the  body  iire  made  Ity  needles  (»!'  Mirioiis  si/es,  set 
iVame.       A    nnmher    of   liawk-liells     attached    to    this 


.'I  IK 


III  a 

IV  line 


S( 


■rve,  bv   their  noise,  ti 


iver    the    ^Toaii? 


.f    th. 


IS 


siitfcrer,  and  [>robal»ly  foi'  the  same  rensoii  the  |iroct 
;ii(  oiiqiimied  with  sini^-iii;^-.  An  indelihic  st;iiii  is  iiroduced 
li\  nibbiny  a  little  rmoly-l»<»wdei'ed  w  illow-(diarcoal  into  the 
|iiiiiitiire.  A  half-breed,  whose  arm  wiis  am|iiitat''d  by  Sir 
.Inliii  Richardson,  decdared  that  tattooing-  was  not  only  the 
iin'i'e  painful  opei'ation  of  the  two,  bnt  rendered,  intinitelv 
iiKH'e  dirtiiMilt  to  be'ar  by   its    tedioiisness,   having'   lasted,  in 


his  case. 


throe  di 


I  vs. 


Til"  Creos  are  also  fond  of  jiaintiny  their  faci-s  with  vei-- 
iiiiljoii  and  i-harcoiil.  In  <j;vneral  the  dress  of  the  mule  consists 
"f  a  lilank«'t  thrown  over  the  shoulders,  a  leathern  shirt  or 
jukct,  and  a  [liece  of  cloth  tied  round  the  middle.  'I'lie 
woiiieii  have  inathlition  a  lon<4"  judticoiit,  and  botli  sexes  wenr 
.1  kind  of  wide  hose,  which,  roachin;^'  from  the  ankle  to  the 
Idle  of  the  thig'h,  are  suspen(h'd  by  strin^-s  to  the  girdle. 
>r  '  Indian  stocking's,'  are  coiiniionlv  ornamented 


mil 


icse  Hose,  < 
itll  hi>ii(b' 


ih 


d  fl 


th 


h 


b 


nili  l)i>ii(ls  or  I'lhands,  and  trom  tlieir  coinenieiice  nave  been 
uiiivcrsiilly  a»h>]ttt.Ml  by  the  wliite  residents,  as  an  essenti.il 
j'lirt  of  their  winter-clothing;'.  Their  shoes,  or  rather  soft 
'""•ts  i,f(>r  they  tit?  round  the  aiik'le\  ai'e  made  of  dressed 
iii'Mtse-skins  ;  and  durini^'  the  winter  they  wrap  several  pieces  of 
''laiikct  round  their  feet.  Th(>y  are  fond  ot'  Miiropean  ai'tidi's 
"t'  di'css,  such  as  g-reat-coats.  .>li;iwls,  iiiid  culicocs,  which, 
i'"Wev.'r  showy  they  may  l)e  at  lirst.  are  soon  reduced  to  a 
"I'V  filtliv  condition  by  their  cust<tm  of  ^'re;lsin;4•  the  face 
lid  luiir  with  soft  fat  or  marrow.  This  [a-jKdice  they  say 
!!'"scrves  the  skin  soft,  and  protects  it  from  cold  in  the 
'•inter  and  the  mosquitoes  in  summer ;  bnt  it  renders  tladr 
M'l'sciiee  disaii'veeable  to  Europeans  who  mav  chance  to  be 
■■;itc(l  near  them  in  a  close  tent  and  near  a  hot  tire. 


3(10 


Tin:    Vi)\..\\l    WnIM,l>. 


TIk'  Crcc  WMiiicii  iirc  in>l  in  «'<'iiriiil  titMtctl  Imi'slily  liv 
Ihcir  1misI)iiii(Is  :  a  ;4;r('iit  juii't  of  tlic  lalKtiir.  Iiitwrsn-.  liills  id 
tlio  lot  ot'tlic  wil't'.  She  makes  tilt'  liul,  cooks,  drcssi-s  tlic  skiii>. 
and  for  the  ino.st  part  carries  tlu- hcavit'sl  load  ;  l»Ht  wlifii  >lif 
is  unable  to  [(crforni  her  task,  the  hiishand  does  not  eonsidti 
it  hiMu.'atli  his  di<4iiity  to  assist  her. 

The  Crees  are  I'xtreniely  indul<,'cnt  t(»  tlidr  cliihh'iii. 
Tlui  father  never  eluistises  them  ;  and  the  mother,  thou.,'li 
nicjre  hasty  in  lier  temper,  seldom  bestows  a  blow  on  n 
troid)les(»nn;  child. 

The  cradU'  in  us«'  am(»n^'  them  is  well  adapted  to  tln'ii 
mode  of  life,  ai:d  is  one  of  their  neatest  articles  of  fiirnitiin'. 
bein^'  ^'enerallv  ornamented  with  beads  an<l  Idts  of  scarlri 
cloth,  but  it  bears  a  very  stroiif^-  resemblance  in  its  form  tea 
mummy-case.  The  infant  is  placed  iu  this  ba;^-,  havin;;'  it> 
lower  extremities  wrai»ped  u]»  in  soft  spha^iiium  or  bo;^'-iii(is>. 
and  may  bo  hun<;'  up  in  the  tent,  or  to  the  bran(di  of  a  tivt. 
without  the  least  (hni<4'(»r  of  tumbliun^'  out;  or  in  a  jonrinv 
may  be  suspended  on  the  mother's  baclv,  l)y  a  l)and  wliicli 
crossi's  the  foreliead  so  as  to  leave  her  hands  free.  Tli'' 
s[)ha^num  forms  a  soft  elastic  bed,  which  absorbs  moistmv 
very  readily,  and  ait'ords  such  a  protection  fr(»m  the  wiiittr 
cold,  that  its  place  would  be  ill  suitplied  by  any  otliti 
material. 

The  ordinary  wij^'wams,  skin  tents,  or  'lod^-cs'  of  tli- 
Tiuiu'  and  Crees  are  exactly  alike  in  form,  beiny  extendol 
on  poles  set  up  in  a  conical  numner;  but  as  a  oeuoral  lulr 
the  tents  of  the  latter  are  more  commodious  and  more  f'lv- 
(piently  supi)lied  with  a  fresh  lining  of  the  spray  of  the  bal.-^;iiii 
fir.  They  also  occasionally  erect  a  lar;^'er  dwellin;^'  of  latlirr 
work,  covered  with  birch-bark,  in  which  forty  men  (»r  inon' 
can  assemble  for  feastin«^-,  debating-,  or  performing-  soiiit'dt 
their  reliu'ious  ceremonies.  The  entire  nation  of  the  Evtliiii- 
yuwuk  cultivate  oratory  more  than  their  northern  nciuli- 
boiirs,  who  express  themselves  more  simply  and  far  k» 
fiuentlv. 

Vapour  baths  are  in  common  use  with  the  Crees,  and  i'lU'ii 
one  of  the  chief  remedies  of  their  medicine-men.  Tlu' 
operator    shut?-   hinihielf    up   with    liis   patient    iu   the   >iii;ill 


<  KKi:  smirrs. 


3Gl 


lunslily  I'.v 

■stht'  skills, 
lit  wIk'U  sill' 

int   COHsiiltT 

ir    cliiltlnn. 

Ih'V.   tlloU'ill 

liltiw    *'U  a 

1.1'  i'liniUtnv. 
ts  of  sc;irlrl 
its  lorin  t<«  ii 
;•,  hiiviii'^'  ii> 
or  b(ii;'-uit»s>. 
U'll  of  ii  ti'''- 

1    liiiutl  wli'uli 

lis  t'n'c.     Til-' 

[•l)s  nioistniv 

u  Uu'  wiiitn 

anv    "tlii'i' 

ovs'  ••!■  th" 
■iiiy  extc'iiAcJ 

ti'ciiornl  1'"''' 
iiul  niovt'  liv- 

lii\u-  (.fliitli'''' 
men  ov  inovi' 
iinuo-  st'iiit'  I't 
)f  the  Evthiii- 
■tlu'vn  iit'i^'^'- 
and  fav  K'>> 

iocs,  aiiA  form 


-men. 

ill  llu' 


^iu;i 


■.ui'alin;^'-li<»nst',  in  uliicli  rfil-lint  sluncs  lu-- priiiKlitl  with 
uattT,  ami  having"  a  few  leaves  of  a  species  of  |iniinis  sti'e\ve<l 
iiroiiial  them,  prtxhiee  ii  thiinp  atiMos|)li(>re  of  a  stitlin.;'  heat, 
;iiiil  shani)Mios  him,  sin^^in^'  all  the  t  inif  a  kiinl  <>f  liviiin.  As 
|nii;jf  as  the  medieiiieiiian  can  hold  out.  so  1oiim-  imist  tlie 
jiatieiit  endure  the  intense  heat  of  the  l»ath,  and  then,  if  the 
invalid  he  ahle  to  move,  they  hoth  )iliin^'e  into  the  river.  If 
tin'  [tatient  does  not  recover,  lie  is  at  least  more  sjieedily  vv- 
Iciised  from  his  sutt'erint^s  hy  this  powerful  remedy. 

'I'lie  C'l'ees  are  a    vain,  li(  l<le,  improvident,   indolent,   and 

ludicrously  h(»ast fill  race.    They  are  als<»  ^reat  n'aiulders,  lait, 

instead  of  cards  <»r  dice,  thi'y  play  with  the  stones  t.f  a  species 

ef  iininiis.     The   dilliculty   lies    in   e-nessin;;"   tlie   numher  of 

stones  which  are  tossed  out  of  a  small  wooden  dish,  and  the 

liiiiiters   >vill   spend  wlude  nii^dits  at    this  destructive  spoi't, 

stiikin^"  their  most  valuaVde  artitdes.     Tla-y  have,  liowever,  a 

much  more  manly  amusement   termed  the  '  cross,' alt houL;h 

tliey  do  not  en;j;-ae-e  even  in  it  \vith(»ut  dei»ositin«j;'considerahle 

slakes.    An  extensive  meadow  is  chosen  for  this  sjiort,  and  tlie 

articles  staked  are  tied  to  a  post,  or  deposite<l  in  the  custody 

of  two  ohl  men.     Thecondjatantshein^-stri[)pe<l  and  painted, 

and  each  provith'd  with  a  kind  of  racket,  in  sliajte  resemhliu^- 

the  letter  P,  with  a  handle  about  two  feet   lone-,  and  a  head 

leiisely  'Nvrou^'ht  with  network,  so  as  to   form   a  shallow  ba;^", 

tauLi'e  themselves  on  diiferent  sidi's.    A  ball  bein;^'  now  tossed 

lip  in  the  middle,  each  ptirty  endeavours  to  drive  it  to  their 

ivs[»(>ctive  goals,  and  much  dexterity  and  ae-ility  is  disjdayed 

ill  the  contest.     AVheu  a  nimble  runner  yets  the  ball  in  his 

'/■"^x,  he  sets  oil' towards  the  e-oal  with  the  utmost  speed,  an«l 

is  followed  by  the  rest,  who  endeavtmr  to   jostle   him   and 

shake  it  out,  but,  if  hard  [>ressed,  he  discharj^^es  it  with  a  jerk, 

to  lie  forwarded  by  his  own  party,  or  bandied  back  by  their 

eii[iouents   until  the  victory   is  decided   by  its   passine;  the 

g-oal. 

Xeitlior  the  Esquimaux  nor  the  Tinnt''  have  any  visible 
"hjects  of  worship,  but  the  Crces  carry  with  them  small 
Wooden  fie-ures  rudely  carved,  or  nuTcly  the  tops  t»f  a  few 
willow-bushes  tied  too-ether,  as  the  representatives  of  a  mali- 
tiou,>,  or  at  least  capricious   being,    called    Kepoocliikann. 


.'102 


Till",  roi,.\i{  \V(n;i,i). 


Tlu'ir  most   roDinion  i><.'(itl<>n  to  this  liciiii;'  is  tor  [tlcnlv  (.(' 
food,   l)ut    iis  tlu'V  <!(>  not  tnist  t'litirt'lv  to  liis  tavoiir,   tl 


i<'\- 


III! 


IMt 


('iHlc:iv<iiir   ;it    the   saiiK.'    liiiio   to    propitiate  the   (iiiiunil, 
imaniiiarv  re[>res(,'iitative  of  tlie  whole  nice  of  larj^er  <|U; 
riipeds  that  are  ohjV'cts  of  the  chase. 

Tli.aioli  (>t't<M!  referrinf4"  to  tlie  Kitche-iiiaiiilo,  tlie  "  (Ir 
S|»irit  '  or  '  Master  of  Life,'  they  do  not  believe  that  he  <'a 
for  his  creatures,  and  consequently  never  think  of  i)rayiiin-  t^ 
him.  They  have  no  lej^'end  about  the  creation,  but  they  sjicjik 
of  a  deluti'e  caused  l>y  an  attempt  of  thetish  to  drown  Woesark- 
<»otchacht,  a  kindof  denu-«4'od,  with  whom  they  had  quarrell'il. 
Jlavin^L;"    constructed  a  raft,  this   Ix'iu^'   embarked    with    lii> 

fanuly  and   all   kintls  of  birds  and  beasts.     Alter  the'  11 1 

had  continued  for  s<nne  time,  he  ordered  several  waterfowl  \n 
dive  to  the  bottom.  Thev  were  all  drowned;  but  a  niusk-r;it. 
dispatched  on  the  same  errand,  returned  with  a  mouthful  nf 
mud,  out  of  which  Woesack-ootchacht,  imitating-  the  mode  in 
which  the  rats  construct  their  hou 


ses. 


formed  a  new  eartii. 
First  a  small  conical  hill  of  mud  appeared  above  the  watci-; 
by  and  by,  its  base  g'radually  spreading-  out,  it  became  an  r.\- 
tensive  l)ank,  which  the  rays  of  the  sun  at  length  hardi'i"<l 
into  firm  land.  Xotwithstandin^*  the  power  that  AVoesack- 
ootchacht  here  displayed,  his  person  is  held  in  very  littli' 
reverence  by  the  Indians,  who  do  not  think  it  worth  while  tn 
make  any  etfort  to  avert  his  wrath. 

Like  the  Tinne,  the  Crees  also  have  a  Tartarus  and  ;iii 
Elysium.  The  soids  of  the  de])arted  are  obliged  to  seraiiil'l.' 
with  i^reat  labour  up  the  sides  of  a  steep  mountain,  u[ion  ,i!- 
tainin;4-the  summit  of  which,  they  are  rewarded  with  tlu^  ])i"- 
pect  of  an  extensive  ]>lain  abounding'  in  all  sorts  of  oame.  ami 
interspersed  here  and  there  ^vith  new  tents,  pitched  in  pleasant 
situations.  "Whilst  they  are  absorbed  in  the  cont<'mpliit 
of  this  deliu-htful  scene,  thev  are  descrie<l  bv  the  inhal>ita 


lull 


\\U 


of  the  happy  land,  wdio,  clothed  in  new  skin-dn.'sses,  appriuhl 
and  welcome,  with  every  demonstration  of  kindness,  tlinsi 
Indians  who  have  led  -^'ood  lives,  but  the  bad  Indians  ait 
told   to  return   from  whence  they  came,  and  without  nioi': 


ceremonv  are  liurltMl  down  the 


precipice. 


As  yet  Christianity  has  made  but  little  progress  anionytho 


(»!'    [tli'Iilv  «.f 

favour,  tlir\ 
iir<^'('r  (juail- 

,  tllC    •  (  ii'lMl 

luit  lie  call  s 
t"  praying-  to 

tlll'V   S|ir;ik 

11  AVot'saik- 
[  (jUaiTrlli'il. 
(I    with    liis 

iV  tllti   11 1 

vjitcrtowl  t'i 
a  iniisk-r;if. 

llOlllllt'llI    p1' 

the  iiK.nlc  Ml 

new  earlii. 

the  water: 

•iiiue  an  r.\- 

h  hardt'ih'l 

t  AVdi'sark- 

very  Httle 

•til  whili'  tn 


I'ROfiKKSS    OK    CIIIMSTIA.VI 


rv 


363 


FihI 


'^"is  of  Jintisl,  Xc.rtli  All 


I'CII 


III 


'i'"''^  to  tlu'  Ojibbewajs  of  Lai 
"iil'er  of  the  CVees  cf  the  jfiuh 
ll-fed  8a lite  11  rs  of  fl 


•erica,  ils  benefits  heiiio- l,itl„.,.t 


<> 


♦'  Huron,  and  to  a 


siiial 


Wi 


I  ■Oliver 


lo   \V 


on  s   Bay  territ 


or 


■y.      Tl 


le 


toil  a.s  the  bnffalo  hunt 


unpen-  are  as  (lisiiielined  to  be 

t'l's  of  the  prairies. 


rus  am!  ;iii 
to  sera  nil  lie 
11,  U[)i>li  :it- 
th  the  jnMs- 
'o'ame.  aii'l 
ill  pira-aiit 
itenipliitidii 
inhaltitaiits 
?,  approarli 
iiess,  thiisi' 
ndiaiis  iwv 
hout  inert' 


ainoim'  till' 


Tlio  Rocky  Moudlains,  at  the  bci.d  of  tlic  Mackonzje. 


CIIAITEK   XXIX. 


T  II  K 


TINXK      IXDIAXS. 


s  Tril. 
-DrtilV 


t'  tlh'  Tililir  lliili:lll>- 


■Tlu'  Dcu;  i;il.>-<'l.,i!iiiiLr-  'I  In    II. 


<li(l    Slalt 


il      111. 


AV 


illKil 


I'nictical 


•iali>t>— L' 


l,ll';i'-''l  — 


('riirliv  to  till'  .\t:('il  and  Intinii. 


rpill]  Timie  Indians,  Avliost'  various  tribes  ranu'O  tViuii  il 


1 


Lower  Mackenzie  to  tlie  I'pl'i'r  Saskateliewan.  iun! 
from  New  Caledonia  to  the  iiead  of  Cliesti'riiekl  inlet,  eiciipy 
a  considerable  part  of  the  territories  of  the  Hudson's  Ii;i} 
C^)lnpany.  To  their  race  belong-  the  8troiiobo\vs  ef  lli-' 
Kocky  Mountains;  the  Beaver  Indians  In'tween  Pcmv 
River  and  the  west  branch  of  tlie  Marken/,ie:  ilw  iJ''! 
Knives,  thus  named  from  the  copper  knives  of  wliiili  lli'ii' 
native  ores  furnish  the  materials,  and  who  roam  between  tli'' 
Great  Fish  River  and  the  Coppermine;  the  llai'e  liiili;ni' 
■who  inhabit  the  thickly-w'ooded  district  of  the  ^MarkfU/ii' 
from  Slave  Lak<^  downwards  ;  the  Doy-  Ribs  wlio  <ic(iipv  tli' 
inland  country  on  the  east,  from  Martin  Lake  to  tlie  <'"'!'- 
permine  ;  the  Athabascans  who  frequent  the  Elk  ami  Si 
Rivers,  and  numy  other  tril)es  of  inferior  note. 


;lV' 


The  Tinne,  in  u'cneral,  have   more  reii'idar  ieat 


urc: 


iia; 


Tin:  tinm:  i,\[>ia.\.<. 


•M\5 


lulllillil-  'I'lli-    ll'l'' 

ilist: Cliarip-M- 

iiHLi'O  IVmii  ill'' 

|ltrli('\V;Ui.   a;i'l 

I  Inlet,  t'ccui') 

Hud  son's  Hiiv 

|l^l)()\VS    dt"    ill'' 

letwceii     P<';>'''' 
li/.it' :    111''    1'''' 
r  \vliirli  tli''ii' 

111  Ix'tWfi'll  ill' 

Han'   iinliiiii^ 
llhe   :Miirk«'ii/.i'' 

]l(»  occUlA    til'' 

!<<>  to  111''  *'"'!'■ 
Elk  au.l  Slav.' 

teutuiv>  til'"' 


til''   Ksquimanx,  and,  taken   on   tlio  Avliole.  oxluMl    all    the 
1  liaraeteristics    of  the    Red   races  dwelling;'    farther    south; 
luit  their    utter    disrepird   of  eleanlinoss    and    their  ahjet-t 
luliaviour   (for  wlien    in   tlie  eoni]»any  of  -white  people  they 
ixliihii    the  wlune   and  air  of  inveterate    mendicants)    Li'ive 
thrill   a   Avretcdu'd   apiioaraneo.     JNlaekenzie,  tiie  Hrst    Kuro- 
]ioaii  who  heranie  acquainted  with  the  Doy*  J?ihs,  describes 
tliciu   as   an   u^ly   emaciated    triht»,   covered    Avitli   dirt   and 
lii'Sineared  with  fjTcase  from  head  to  foot.     jNlore  than  sixty 
vt'ars  liave  passed  since  Mackenzie's  journey,  but  his  account 
nf  tliem  is  true  t<»   the  present  day.     The  Avonien  are  even 
iiU'licr  and  more  lilthy  than  the  men,  for  the  latter  at  least 
[laiiit    their   nnwashed  faces    and   wear    trinkets  on  festive 
luasions,  while  the  females   leave  even  their  hair  with(»nt 
iny  ether  dressiuLV  than  wiping"  their  e-roasy  hands  on  tlie 
matted  locks,  Avhen  they  have  been  rubbing-  their  bodies  with 
marrow,     lae  clothing'  of  tlie  men    in   summer  consists   of 
niiideer  leather  dressed  like   shammy,  which,  when  newly 
maile,  is  beautifully  white  and  sott.      '  A  shirt  of  this  mate- 
rial.' says  Sir  John  Kichardson,  to  whom  we  aiv  indebted  for 
till'  best  account  of  the  various  nations  inliabitin<>-  the  Ifud- 
-"u's  Tiny  territory,  '  cut  evenly  below,  reaches  to  the  middle  ; 
tilt'  ends  of  a  piece  of  cloth  secured  to  a  waist-band   han^- 
'li'Wii  before  and  behind;  the  hose,  or  Indian  stockinf«'s,  de- 
't'lid  from  the  top  of  the  thio-h  to  the  ankle,  and  a  pair  of 
'!!"( iissins  or  shoes  of  the  same  soft  leather  witli  tops  whi(di 
i 'Id  round    the    ankle,   complete   the   costume.     WluMi   tlio 
iiuiiter  is  equipped  for   the  (diase  he  wears,   in  addition,  a 
^tri|i('  of  white  Uare-skin,  or  of  the  belly  part  oi'  a  deer-skin, 
ill  a  liandana  round  the  head,  witli  his  lank,  bhudc  elf-locks 
^trt'iiiuino-  from  beneath  ;  a  shot  pouch  suspended  by  an  em- 
I'l'i'ldcrcd  belt,  a  tire-ba^'  or  tobiicco-pou(di  tu(dce<l   into  the 
-irilli',  and  a  lonu"  foAvlinu'-niece  thrown  carelesslv  across  tlie 
inn.    or   balanced   on    the   back   of    the   nerlc.      The    several 
'ii'iidi's  here  enumerated  are  ornamented  at  tbi.'  seams  and 
ii'iiis    with    leather    thon;_;s    wound    round    with    porcujtine 
'i'iill>.  (ir  more  or  less  embi-oidered  with  beatl-worl<.  according- 
'"  til.,  industry  of  the  wife  or  wives.     One  <jf  the  youn;^'  men. 
'Vtii  of  the  slovenly    Do^-    Iv'ibs,  when  newly  equipped,  and 


I 


86G 


TIIK    I'OI.AK    WORLD. 


tripj»in;4' jiimitily  "Vt'i"  tlic  iiictssv  utouikI  ^vitll  iin  cliislic  stt|i. 
displays  his  slim  iuid  in»l  uii^riiecful  fif^'urc  to  adviiiitiiL;'.'. 
lint  this  fiiio  dross  once  donned  is  iicilln'v  laid  aside  iiur 
clonned  while  it  lasis,  and  s<»on  aeqnires  a  din""-}'  h^ok  and 
an  odonr  which  l)otra_ys  its  owner  at  some  distance.  In  the 
canii)  ii  fi^roasy  blanket  of  En^-lish  rnannfacture  is  Avorn  over 
the  shonlders  by  day,  and  forms  with  the  clothes  the  bedding 
by  ni^'-ht.' 

In  winter  tliev  clothe  themselves  with  moose  or  reindeer 
skins,  retaining'  the  hair,  Avhile  a  larj^-e  robe  of  the  same  iiui- 
teriid  is  thrown  over  the  shoulders,  and  hand's  down  to  tlif 
feet  in  place  of  the  blanket.  The  women's  dress  resemhlcs 
the  men's,  but  the  skirt  is  somewhat  lon^'or,  and  g-enernllv 
accompanied  by  a  petticoat  which  reaches  nearly  to  tlir 
knee.  The  form  of  dress  her(^  describe<l  is  common  to  tin 
whole  Tinne  nation,  and  also  to  the  Crees,  bnt  the  matcriiil 
varies  with  the  district.  Thns  moose-deer,  red-deer,  iiml 
bison  leather  are  in  nso  iimonn'  the  more  southern  ainl 
western  trilx'S,  and  the  Jfare  Indians  make  their  skirts  ut 
the  skins  of  the  anin)al  fnnn  whi(di  they  derive  their  surniiiiii'. 
As  this,  however,  is  too  tender  to  be  used  in  the  ordinary  wnv. 
it  is  torn  into  narrow  strips  twisted  slio-htly,  and  iilaitcil 
or  worked  into  the  reqniretl  shape.  Such  is  the  closeiit'o 
iHud  fineness  of  the  fur,  that  these  hare-skin  dresses  ar- 
exceeding'ly  warm,  notwithstanding  the  looseness  of  tlitir 
texture. 

The  Hare  Indian  and  Dog  Kib  women  are  certainlv  ;it 
the  bottom  of  the  scale  of  humanity  in  Nortli  America.  Xot 
that  they  are  treated  with  cruelty,  but  that  they  are  leolciil 
upon  as  inferior  Iteings,  and  in  this  belief  the}'  themselves  m- 
quiesce.  In  early  infancy,  the  boy  discovers  that  he  may  shew 
any  amount  of  arrogance  towards  his  sisters,  Avho,  as  seen  ;i- 
they  can  walk,  are  harnessed  to  a  sledge,  while  the  tiny  liinitti 
struts  in  his  snow*  shoes  after  the  men  and  apes  their  eeii- 
tempt  of  the  women.  All  the  Avork,  except  huntini:'  aii'l 
lishing,  falls  to  tlu'ir  share;  yet  they  are  in  general  not  ili>- 
contented  with  their  lot. 

It  would  be  vain  to  look  among  the  Dog  Ribs  for  tli'' 
stoicism  popularly  attributed  to  the  Indians,  for  they  slivink 


TiiK  i>(»(i  j:iij 


3«7 


1  elastic  stt'p. 
()  advantiii,'''. 
i<l    iisid*'  iiHi' 

ll<rV  look    illlil 

nice.     In  "i'' 

is  worn  over 

s  tlic  beddiiiu' 

;(^  or  n>iiiil<'i'i' 
the  sann'  iii;i- 
s   clown  to  tlir 

•ess  reseiiil>li'> 
and  genev:illv 
nearly  to  tlir 
nnmou  to  tin 
it  the  material 
red -deer,  iiu'l 
sonthern   aii'l 
their  slcivts  <A 
their  HurnimH'. 
'  ordinary  way. 
y,   and   ]iliiit(''l 
the  elost'iK'-^ 
in  dresses  av'' 
HMioss  of  tluii' 


aneriea. 


i-e  certninly  at 

nre  liteld'il 

Ithemselves  !U- 

it  he  may  slie\v 

rho,  as  smm  a- 


the  tinv 


liuuit'i' 


Ipei 


their 


Cell- 


hnntiiiL;-  ii'i 


il 


l(niera 


1  u. 


(11- 


t»r 


Ribs  for  th 
thev  slain 


I  I'll! 


;il'i' 


eai 


II  jiiiiii,  shed  Tears  readily,  iiiid  iii'o  very  timorous;  hut 
youiii4"  and  old,  enjoy  a  joki'  hoiirtily,  and  when  youn;^' 
lively  and  cheerful.  When  hands  of  their  niitiou  meet 
h  oilier  after  a  lon^-  abseiiee,  they  perform  ii  1<ind  of 
(hiiice.  A  pieee  of  ^'round  is  eleiired  ior  the  ])uriio.sc.  nnd 
llii'  (hiuee  fre(]nently  lasts  lor  {\V(»  or  tliree  diiys.  the  piirlies 
rdievinn'  eiieh  other  us  they  L;'et  tiretl.  The  two  hiinds  com- 
iiinice  ihe  dane<»  Avith  their  hiicks  turned  to  eiudi  other,  the 
iiMli\  iduiils  fidlowiiii^'  one  iiuother  in  ludiuii  lile,  und  hoMinu" 
ilie  liow  in  th(»  lel't  lumd,  iind  iin  urrow  in  the  riL;ld.  They 
roieh    ol»li(|Uely    ufter   nuniy   tnrns,   jind   when   the   tw(» 


aiip 


liaiids  ure  closely  hiudv  to  back,  they  feioii  to  see  ciich  other 
for  the  llrst  time,  iind  the  bow  is  insiiintly  triinsferr(>d  to  the 
riulil  hand  and  the  arrow  to  the  left,  si^-nifs  iuii'  that  it  is 
iiei  their  intention  to  use  them  a^'uinst  their  li'iends.  Their 
(laiiciu;:;',  which  they  iiecom[»!iny  by  a  cIkumis  of  <4'r»)ans,  coni- 
I'ared  by  8ir  John  Kitdiiirdson  fo  tdie  deep  sii^h  of  a   [civiour 


IS  he  innifi's  ins  I'amnier  UoAvn  ni»on  the  puvenu'n 


V 


th 


V 


It.  1 


las  not 


\\u 


least  [)retensions  to  rrrace  :  their  Knees  and  body  are  half 
l»iit.  and    from    their    heavy   stam[)in^',  they  appear    as    if 


-ll'ol 


IS  of  sinlcin^'  into  the  t^ronnd. 


The  Don'  Ribs  are  practical  socialists,  ami  their  wretched 
cnihlition  results  in  a  L4'reat  measure  from  this  cause.  All 
may  avail  themselves  of  the  produce  of  a  hunter's  ener^'v  or 
skill,  and  do  ]iot  even  leave  him  the  distribntion  of  his  own 
uaiiie.  AVhen  it  lieconu'S  knoAvn  in  a  camp  that  deer  have 
lici'ii  killed,   the   old   men    and  wonnui  of  each   faniilv  sallv 

t;  <v\ 


I  \v 


liWlK 


ri'ilit 


ith  their  sledu'es  and  divide   the  (luai'i'v.  lea\in<>-  the 
■r  nothing'  bnt  the  ribs  and  t(»nti'ne     all  he  can  claim  of 
rnabk'  to  I'estrain  their  a[i}»etite.  all  the  coniniunltx 


a>i 


in   times  of   al>nndance.    ho\ve\e 


lilll 


nianx'   o 


f    th 


iiii'ii  Iind  there  are  n(»t  a  few  idle  ones)  may  have  com riluiti'd 
le   counn(»n    ^'Ood.      TaULl'ht    by    frefjUent    sufferin;_;'s,   the 


tu    1 


111' 


ive  luniters  frequently  Avithdraw  fr<uii  the  worthh 


<lruiii's.  leavinL*"  them   at   some    lishiny-statioii,   where,   with 
lui'iM']'  iiabistrv,  thev   nniv   snljsist  eomfortablv.      ••''ish-diet 


lHi\V( 


ver,  not  aereealtle  to  their  taste,  an<l  as  soon  as  r 


e- 


|"iris  ol'   ii   successful  ehase  arrive,  a   i;-eneral    nioveiueut    to 
tile  luuitin'>--i''ronnd  ensues.      If  on  their  march  the  erasing;' 


HM 


TIIK    I'm, All    \V<»IJM). 


iiuiltitiidt'  discovi'i'  a  lutiird  of  iiiciit.  it  is  devoured  on  llir 
spot;  ])n\  they  are  not  iilways  so  fortunate.  The  dtM-r  ainl 
the  limders  may  have  <^<ni>'  oif,  and  then  thoy  are  obli<^-e<l  \n 
retrace  tlieir  stejts,  many  peri.shiny  by  the  way. 

The  Doj;-  Ribs  are  not  conspicuous  for  hospitality.     Wlitu 
a  stranger  enters  a  tent  he  receives  no  -welcome  and  protJ'er 
of  food,  thon<4li  he   may  help  himself  from  a  piece  of  meat 
han^nn;^'  on    the   wall,   or  j(»in   the   repast.      Thouo-h   ^rcat 
liars,  they  do  not  steal   the   white   man's  property  like   the 
Es(juimaux  and  (^'cm's,  and  when  visitin;^'  a  fort,  they  may  \n' 
trusted  in  any  of  the  rooms.     As  to  their  relij^'ions  belicl'. 
the  majority  of  the  nation  recoj^-nise  a   Great  Spirit,  while 
others    doubt    his    existiMice,    assigning'    as    a    reason    their 
miserable  condition.     They  are  in  <j;:reat  fear  of  evil  spirits, 
which,  as  they  imai^ine,  assume  the  forms  of  the  bear,  wolf,  a  ml 
wolverine,  and  in  the  woods,  waters,  and  desert -places,  tliev 
fancy  they  hear  them  howling  in  the  winds,  or  moaning  hy 
the  graves  of  the  dead.     They  never  make  oflFerings  to  the 
Great  Spirit,  but  de})recate  the  wrath  of  an  evil  being  by  tin' 
])romise  of  a    sacrifice,  or  by  scattering  a  handful  of  deer- 
hair  or  a    few  feathers.     They  believe  in  a  state  of  future 
happiness   (tr    torment.      The  soul,   after   death,    crosses  ;i 
broad   river   in   a    Vioat,   and   thus  endeavours  to  reach  tho 
opposite  shore,  which  is   adorned  with  all  the  beauties  of 
l)aradise.      If  laden  with  crime,  the  boat  sinks   imder  tlie 
weight,    and    the    unfortunate    soul,    'mmersed    in    water, 
strives  in  vain  to  reacli  the  blissful  abode  from  which  it  i> 
for  ever  banishe<l. 

Formerly  when  a  Tinne  warrior  died,  it  was  customary  for 
the  family  to  abandon  every  article  they  possessed,  ami 
betake  tlu>mselves,  in  a  perfectly  destitute  condition,  to  the 
nearest  body  of  their  own  people  or  trading  post.  The 
advice  of  traders  is  gradually  breaking  down  this  absurd 
practice,  which  would  alone  sutKce  to  keep  this  people  in  ;i 
state  of  i)erpetual  ]>overty.  Tn  other  respects  also  European 
influence  begins  t<,>  make  itself  felt.  Since  18M),  Koiiiau 
Catholic  missionaries  are  at  work  among  the  Chepewyaiis. 
and  have  taught  many  of  their  converts  to  read  and  write. 
The  Athaljnscans  had  formerly  but  a  small  breed  of  d^ii^. 
now  a  stouter  race  has,  in  some  res]»eets,  ameliorated  the  ii'i)- 


TIIK    TIXXK. 


3C9 


vt\  on  <1"' 
iXovY  '.mil 

l^V.  Whrn 
and  protVi  r 
CO  oi  liifiit 

•ty  like   tlu' 
hey  iiiiiy  !»' 
;i()US  )>t'li''t'. 
pivit,  Avliil'' 
cason   their 
evil  spirits, 
ar,  wolf,  and 
■phices,  tlu'v 
inoiuiiiv^'  l»y 
l-ilio-s  to  the 
bein};-  l\v  tln' 
llul  of  (Itvr- 
,te  of  futur.' 
I,   crosses  II 

o  reaeli  tli-^ 
beauties  t'f 

s  inider  tin' 
in  water, 
Avhicli  it  i> 


liistoinav 
1. 


^sesse< 


V   till' 

anil 


it  1011, 


1M)S 


to   ill' 

t.    Th 


tl 


us 


peoi 


Iso 


ihsunl 


oi)le  ill  ;i 


x'aii 


Enrol 
■K),  Roman 
"heptMvyaiis, 


I  and  Av 


,rit< 


^ed  of  doii'> 
iteil  the  i 


(lit  it  111  of  tlie  females,  and  tlie  intr(»dnotion  of  the  lun'se,  wliieli 
has  more  recently  ialvon  place,  liolds  ont  ]>ros])eets  of  a  still 
o'irat<'r  ini]tr(>vemeni.  The  Tiiiiit'  are  as  ^iddyand  thonylit- 
Icss  as  children.  When  accompanied  by  a  \vliite  man  they 
Avill  jierform  a  lonjjf  joiirne}-  carei'nlly,  hnt  cannot  lie  depended 
11(1011  to  carry  letters,  however  hi^h  the  reward  may  be  that 
liaslM'cn  promised  them  on  reaehin^i'  their  destination,  as  the 
least  whim  sntKces  to  make  them  forget  their  commission. 

Tlu'V  are  f,^enerally  coutont  with  one  wife  at  a  time,  and 
HOIK'  bnt  the  chiefs  have  more  than  two.  The  snceessful 
wrestler  takes  the  wife  of  his  weaker  countryman,  who  con- 
soles himself  for  his  loss  by  eiidoavoiu'inn^  to  find  one  weaker 
than  himself. 

Tender  and  affectionate  parents,  the  Tiniie  are  totally  in- 
different to  the  sorrows  of  helpless  ao'e.  Dnrin<jf  the  stay  of 
Sir  (l(>(»rcfe  Back  at  Fort  Reliance,  an  old  woman  arrived 
there  on  Easter  Hnnday,  clothed  in  rao-ocd  reindeer  skins, 
worn  down  to  a  skeleton,  and  o-rjispin^'  Avith  both  her  hands 
a  stick  to  support  her  body,  bent  donble  by  age  and  want. 
Till'  story  of  the  poor  creature  was  soon  told.  She  had  be- 
fdinea  bnrden  to  her  family  ;  her  former  services  had  all  Iteen 
for;4otten,  and  she  had  been  told, '  that  thoufifh  she  still  seemed 
to  live,  she  was  in  reality  dead,  and  must  be  abandoned  to  her 
fate.  In  the  new  fort  she  mit;'ht  find  assistance,  for  the  white 
straiifjers  were  powerfnl  medicine-men.'  This  ha<l  ha])pened 
a  month  before,  and  all  this  time  she  had  slowly  crept  aloiio-, 
aiipeasins^  her  hnnyer  with  the  berries  she  found  here  and 
tlicvc  on  the  Avay.  When  she  reached  the  fort  it  Avas  too 
late,  she  died  a  few  days  after  her  arrival. 


oil- 


•;i   .       ;vi . 


(l''r   Ml   111 .    ..  u  i' 


rilAlTllIf    \\x, 


TirM    liOlCIIKl  X,    oi;     KI'I'i'llIX    INDIAXr 


'I'lli'   ('rilllltiic>>    I  ll(\'     illll.-llli 


I  ~'r 


irlr  Api 


M-aiMiicc  :ui' 


I); 


'I'lirir  I,,,vi'  ut'  !■■ 


-( "iilldit  io.i    ol'   llir    Woiiirii — Sfi'aiiL;<'    f'ii--tMiii->  —  Cli.-ir.u-l.r      l''riiil>    witli    t: 


l']s(Hiiiii;iu\   -   I  lie 
diM'i'     Their  1,(iiIm 


if    Mlsliieinll".    iliul    I  illliil'.iil-    I,i\ 


ir  cali'liiiiL' 


0 


N   tilt'    biiiilvs  of  tlio    Linvcr  Miielcoiiy.ie,  to  tl 


w  \\o> 


t    of 


nr 


CJri'iit  liciir  L;il<<',  in  llic  Icrrihn-ics  ilviiiiit'tl  by  lli."  1' 
River  iiiul  bv  ibo  UpjM'r  Viikoi),  dwell  flie  lioudiriix. 
Kiitcbiii  iiKliims,  whose  liin^'ii;io-e  is  lo(;illy  dillereiit  tVciii 
that  of  the  other  North  Aiuerieaii  Iribes,  ;ni<l  Avhose  ciisti'in- 
I  inaiiMers  also  vary  eoiisiderabiv  iVom  Ihose  of  ill!  thtir 


aiH 


lai 


ncin'hbours,  both  Jled-slviiis  iiiid  Hs(iuiiii:iiix. 

They  are  iiii  aihletie  iiiid  fine  lookiiiM-  proplc.  Avilli  reL^iilai' 
features  mid  a  e(aii[»le.\ioii  of  a  lii^hter  copper  (.'oldiir  tl 
that  of  the  other  Red  Indians,  so  that  many  of  their  wnnini 
wo\dd  be  reekonod  liaiulsonie  in  any  country.  The  I'einalos 
tattoo  their  chins  and  use  a  black  iriy-nient  when  they  ]i;iint 
their  i'aces,  Avliile  the  nen  employ  both  r(>d   and   black  oil  all 


TIIK    KITCIIIN    INDIANS. 


;}71 


r  1  r 


L,,vc  "I  I'll"'' 

1m. lids    Willi    til' 
tl'llillL'  II'  'I'" 


llor  1-11 


11 


10     AVi' 


i\  by  tli.>  l'i"'l 

IliiVciviit  iV.'ii 
ihosc 


\v 


itli  r. 


COl 


tlx'iv  w 


'11 


i.ccasiniis  ofccrcjuonA*,  and  alwavs  to  bo  iviidv  ciich  fiirrics  a 
siiiiill  huix  with  rod  clay  and  black  lead  snspcndcd  to  his 
neck.  Mosi  conniididy  the  eyes  ai"c  encircled  with  black,  a 
strijii^  of  the  same  rtnis  down  the  middle  (»t'  the  n<»se,  and  a 
hldtch  is  daubed  on  the  n[)])er  part  ofi'ach  cheek.  The  fure- 
li«'ad  is  crosstnl  by  many  narrow  red  stri]»es,  and  the  skin  is 
streaked  alternately  with  red  and  l)lack. 

The  outer  shirt  of  the  Kntchin  is  made  of  the  skhis  of 
t':i\vn  reindeer,  dressed  with  the  hair  on  after  the  manner  of 
till'  Hare,  1)(;;^-  Rib,  and  other  ('hepo\vya,n  tribes,  but  resembles 
in  form  the  analoij;ous  |jfarment  of  the  Es(juimaux,  bein<if  fur- 
nislied  with  j)eaked  skirts  though  of  smaller  size.  The  men 
wear  these  skirts  before  and  behind;  the  w<»mon  have  larger 
l>;i(k  skirts  but  none  in  front  fn  winter,  shirts  of  hare-skin 
iiiv  worn,  and  the  iiantaloons  of  deer-skin  have  the  fur  next 
tin'  skill. 

Xoiic  of  the  iiei^^hbouriiii;'  nations  ]»ay  so  much  attention 
!n  |ii  rsoiial  cleanliness,  or  are  st>  studious  in  adorning  their 
[Misdus.  \  l)road  ban<I  of  beads  is  worn  across  the  shouhhn's 
ami  lii'casl  of  the  shirt,  and  the  hinder  part  of  the  dress  is 
liiiiLicd  with  tassels  wound  round  with  dyed  [)orcu})ine  quills 
ami  >tiMiii!4'  with  the  silvery  fruit  of  the  oleaster  [Elivntjtni^ 
'iriinilrii] ;  a  strijie  of  beads,  struiii^'  in  alternate  red  and  whitt; 
S(|ii;n'('s,  ornament  the  seams  <if  the  trousers,  and  bands  of 
Iii'inls  encircle  the  ankles.  The  poorer  soi't,or  the  less  fortu- 
nate hunters,  who  are  unal)le  to  procure  these  costly  trinkets 
ill  the  same  enviable  abundance  as  the  rich,  strive  to  wear  at 
I'.ist  a  string'  <if  beads,  and  look  (h)wn  \vith  contemptuous 
I'ity  ujM.n  the  still  more  needy  class,  which  is  reduced  to 
a'lniii  itself  with  porcupine  ([uills  only. 

Ill  I  oiisequeucoof  this  passionate  fondness  for  beads,  these 
'■I'li.iiuents  serve  as  a  medium  of  exchange  anunig  the  Kut- 
'liiii.  and  Sir  .Tohn  Kichardson  remarks  that  n(»  such  near 
iil'liriKirli  to  money  has  been  inventc'd  by  the  nations  to  the 
'  islwaid  of  the  Rocky  ]\rountaius.  The  standard  bead,  and 
"II''  "!'  the  most  value,  is  a  large  one  of  white  enamel, 
iiiiiuuiactm-ed  in  Italy  only,  and  is  with  ditticulty  procured  in 
^iillicit'iit  quantity  to  satisfy  the  demand,  as  beads  are  more 
I'li/.eil  than  English  cloth  and  blankets. 

I!  n  2 


372 


Tlin   roi-AR   WOULD. 


Aiiollier  iirtirlf  very  miirli  in  i'('(|U('st  iunon;^-  tlic  Kulchiii, 
is  the  liirj4'('  ribl)('(l  (Initiirmiu  slu'll  wliidi  is  collccttMl  in  tin' 
iivcliipclii^'d  bciwvi'M  ( )rt':4'(iii  mid  ("apf  Fairwciitlicr,  iiikI 
passes  l>y  ti'inlt'  tVom  tribf  lo  1iil»t'  uiilil  it  iiiids  its  wjiy  ;it 
It'iin-fh  to  the  Yukon.  ^Vitll  this  shell  they  ii<h>rii  their  mit- 
tens, iind  even  atlaeh  it  to  tlieir  jj;'uns,  wliieh  have  been  liiliiy 
iiitrodueed,  and  are  in  jj^reat  deniaml.  All  men  carry  i>o\\(lii' 
and  ball,  whether  they  own  a  j^ain  or  not,  and  obtain  for  it 
a  share  (d*  the  n'anie. 

"^I'lie  iribes  on  the  Yukon  tie  iheir  hair  behind  in  a  cue.  nv 
'  ehi^'uon,' and  daub  it  with  ^'rease  and  tlu;  down  of  y-ci'sc 
and  ducks,  until,  l»y  tlu,'  re[»etition  of  the  process  continiinl 
from  infancy,  it  swells  to  an  enormous  thiidvuess,  so  that  th.' 
weight  of  the  accunndated  load  of  hair,  dirt,  and  (»rnanieiits, 
causes  the  wearer  to  sto()[)  forwards  hal>itually.  The  t:iil- 
feathers  of  the  eaL;-le  and  (ishin;^'-hawk  are  stuck  into  tlio 
hair  on  the  back  (»f  the  hea,d,  and  are  removed  oidy  when  tlir 
owner  retires  to  sleep,  or  when  he  Avishes  to  wave  theia  In 
and  fro  in  a,  dance. 

The  principal  men  have  two  or  thre(;  wives  each,  uliilr 
the  bad  hunters  are  obli;4'ed  to  remain  bachelors.  A  j^cdd 
Avrcstler,  however,  even  thon^'h  poor,  can  always  oljtaiii  a 
wife. 

The  women  do  all  tlie  drudL;"«'ry  in  winter,  except  cookiiii:. 
and  do  not  eat  till  the  husband  is  satistied.  In  summer  they 
labour  little,  except  in  drying-  meat  or  hsli  for  its  preserva- 
tion. The  men  alone  paddle  while  the  Avonien  sit  as  [la- 
sengers,  and  husbands  even  carrv  their  wives  to  the  slieiv 
on  their  arms,  that  they  may  not  wet  their  feet — an  iiistaiHv 
of  gallantry  almost  nnparalleled  in  savag-e  life.  The  llsiiiii- 
inaux  WHunen  row  their  own  '  oomiaks,'  and  the  Cheiuw  van 
women  assist  the  men  in  ]»addling'  their  canoes.  On  tin' 
whole,  the  social  condition  of  the  Kntchin  women  is  far  siijir- 
ri(n'  to  that  of  the  Tinne  women,  but  scarcely  equal  to  tliat  >'[ 
the  Esquimaux  dames. 

They  do  not  carry  tln.'ir  children  in  their  hoods  or  ]nu\U 
like  the  Esquimaux,  nor  do  they  stuff  them  into  a  bug  with 
moss  like  tlu^  Tinne  and  frees,  but  they  ])lace  them  in  ii  ^lat 
of  l)ii(di-  burl:,,  wilb  a  fta'-k  and  sides  like  Iho-c  ofan  ai'ni-i'!)in. 


WARS    (tF   TIIK    Kl  TCI  I IX. 


379 


.  K  at  el  I  111, 

\tl\<'r,  iiii'l 

its  w.iy  111 

ilu'vr  init- 
Ix-euliUi'ly 
vrv  powJfV 
btaiu  for  it 

ill  ;»  fuc.  <'V 
WW  of  t;'''''>'' 
^s  coiitinui'il 

L  (»riiiniifii1>. 
>'.  Th"  l:ill- 
iclv  iulo  llio 
iily  wlifU  tlir 
r.ivc  tlu'iu  1" 

s  ciicli,  whilr 
ors.  A  '^••""1 
lys   (»V)t:iin  a 

(M'\»l  (•»H)l<iiii:'. 
sunniu'vtl"'} 
its  -[»!'( 'scwa- 
1   sit   !is  pa-- 
to  liic  sliuiv 
uu  install''' 
The  K>'1"^- 
,.  C]i''l"'^\T''" 
„fs.      «»'  il"' 
:n  is  fiiv  ^»r'- 
1  to  tlial  "f 


nui 


l)0^l^ 


1^ 


ito  •.!  I'a'^'  ^vi^ 
rlu'in  in  ;i  ^'"' 


;iii*l  a  p(»iiiiin'l  ill  tVoiit  rcst'iiililiiii;'  ilic  jicak  of  a  Sjuniisli 
>ii(l(ll(',  l>y  wliicli  they  liaii^'  it  IVoiii  their  back.  Tlio  cliild's 
t'.i't  arc  l»aiHla;^n'(l  to  iircvciit  tliciii  ^'rowin;^',  small  t'ect 
iiciiiu'  tli(»ii^'lit  liaiulsoinc,  and  consiMjUciitly  slun't  unsliapt'ly 
ti'ct  arc  cliaractt'i-istic  of"  flic  pcojilc  of  l)otli  st-xcs.  A  more 
TJiliculoiis  or  iiisaiio  cnstoin  can  lianlly  be  iiiia^iiicd  aiiioiio-  -i 
nation  of  liniitcrs. 

The  Kutchiii  are  a  lively  cheerful  [teoijle,  fniid  of  daiicjiii^' 
iind  si)ij4'iii^",  ill  \vhi(di  they  excel  all  <itlier  Indians:  leaping, 
wivstlin;;',  and  other  athh'tic  exercises  are  likewise  favourite 
iiiiiuseiiients.  They  are  inveterate  talkei's.  Mvery  iiew- 
ceiiier  arriving'  at  a  tradin<4'-|tost  makes  a  lonn'  speetdi  which 
must  not  be  interrujtted.  The  Ix'lief  in  Shamanism  is  still 
ill  full  vin'our  anion^'  them. 

'Hioui^li  a,  treacherous  |MM)ple,  they  have  never  yet  imbrui'd 
lliiir  hands  in  European  blood,  but  there  are  IVe(|iieiit  feuds 
aiii'iiiy'  their  various  tribes,  by  which  one-half  of  the  popula- 
tinii  of  tlu'  banks  of  the  Yukon  has  been  cut  otf  Avithin  the 
l;i>t  fw<'iil>-  years.  From  a  constant  dread  of  ambuscade, 
they  do  not  travel  excei)t  in  larye  parties  ;  and  thus  ;i  peri»etual 
ti'iliiiL;'  of  insecurity  embitters  their  lives,  whi(di  are  already 
ii'iulcred  sufliciently  hard  by  the  severity  of  an  Ai'ctic  ili- 
iiiatc.     The  ayents  of  the  Hudson's  JJav  Companv  have  en- 

~  a.  1  a, 

ilcavoured    l»v    u'ood    advice,    and    the   distribution    of   lar<j'e 
presents,  to  establish  peace,  but  have  ou\y  nu-t  uith  [»artiul 

>Ucccss, 

Like  the  Tinne,  the   Kut(diin  are  in   a   stai<'  of  peri)etual 
waii;ir(>  with  the  Es(|uimaux  ;  and  thouuh  thev  a!wa\s  (diarj-'e 
till'  latter  with  treacdiery,  yet  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the 
arrnsation  miyht,  with  full  justice,  ])e   retorted   uiion   them- 
si'lvcs.     One   of  the  hostile   encounters,    inentinned    by   Sir 
•I.  liichardson,  deserves  notice,  on  accouuf  of  its  resemlihuu-e 
ill  some  particulars  to  the   meetinu'  of  Juab  and  Abner,  re- 
'•"ril''d  in  the  Second   Bo(d\  of  Samuel.      A    party  of  eaidi   of 
till'  two   nations   having   met   on   the   banks  of  a    river,  the 
veiiiiL;'  men  of  both  i»arties  rose  up  as  if  for  a  friendly  dance. 
Til''  stream  n'lides  peacefully  alone-,  tlu'  settine-  sun  ^^-ilds  the 
I'iii''  forest  and  sparkles  in  the  Avaters,  all  nature  breathes 
l"'ii''e.    Ibit  the  Esquimaux  having;-,  acc(»rdinL;'  to  their  custom, 


.'174 


TlIK    I'oLAIJ    W(M:I.I>. 


C'oiiocaltMl  tlh'ii"  loiio^  knives  in  tlio  slccvrs  <tC  llicir  dct  r- 
Kkiii  shirts,  siiddt'iily  diiiw  them  in  one  of  tlio  cvolutii'iH 
of  the  (hince,  jiihI  plim^i'  thcni  into  tlicir  <t|»j»nn»'nts.  A 
{jfcncnil  c'onliict  rnsnes,  in  which  the  Kntchin,  thanks  tn 
tht'ii-  <,Mnis,  nitinuitcly  prove  victorious.  '  Another  ineidnit.' 
8aj.s  Sir  John  Rielnirdson,  '  which  occnrre<l  on  tlie  huidcs  df 
tlie  V'nkon  in  iHl."),  mivcs  ns  a  fnrther  insio-ht  into  the  sus- 
jiicious  and  tiniorons  lives  of  tliese  jieoph'.  One  ni<;'ht  fmii- 
stran^-ers  from  tlie  lower  part  of  the  river  arrived  at  the  tciit 
of  an  (dd  man  nho  was  sick,  and  who  had  with  him  only  Iwm 
sons,  one  (d'them  a  mere  hoy.  Tlie  new  comers  entered  in  ,1 
friendly  nninner,  and  when  the  hour  of  repose  came,  lay  down: 
but  as  they  did  not  slee[»,  the  sons,  suspecting'  from  their  cini- 
ductthat  they  meditate*!  evil,  feinned  a  desire  of  visit in;4' tlicji' 
mooso-<h>er  snares.  They  intimated  their  [)Ui-iiose  aloud  \<> 
their  father  and  went  ont,  takin<^'  with  them  their  hows  iuhI 
arrows.  Instead,  howevei-,  cd'  c(»ntinnin<4;  their  way  into  flir 
wood,  th(!y  st(de  l)a«d<  quietly  to  the  tent,  and  listening'  im 
the  outside,  disc(»vere(l,  as  they  fancied,  fi<»m  the  convcis;!- 
tion  of  the  strauf^-ers,  that  their  father's  life  was  in  danger. 
Knowiu}^  the  exact  position  of  the  innuttes,  they  thereupon 
shot  their  arrows  thr(»u<_>h  the  skin  covering"  of  the  tent  iiinl 
killed  two  <d'  the  straiij^'e  Indians;  and  the  other  two,  in  cii- 
doavourin<>'  to  maki^  their  escape  l>y  the  door,  shared  tln' 
fate  of  their  companions.  This  is  spoken  of  in  the  trihc  ;i- 
an  exceedingly  brave  action.' 

Dm-ing-  the  summer  the  Yukon  Kut(diiu  dry,  for  tlnir 
winter  use,  the  white  fish  {Coretiouiis  alhKs),  which  they  catcli 
by  plantinj^  stakes  across  the  snuiller  rivers  and  narrow  parts 
of  the  lakes  and  closin*^  the  openings  with  wicker-baskots. 
They  take  the  moose-deer  in  snares,  and  tow'ards  siirinu' 
mostly  resort  to  the  mountains  to  hunt  reindeer,  and  lay  in 
a  stock  of  dried  venison.  On  the  ojieu  pasture  grounds  t'lf- 
quented  by  this  animal  they  construct  large  pounds.  Tw^ 
rows  of  posts  firmly  planted  i^  the  ground,  and  united  l»y 
the  addition  of  strong  horizontal  bars  into  a  regular  fence. 
extend  their  arms  for  nearly  the  length  of  a  mile  in  the  funii 
of  a  Roman  V.  The  extremity  of  the  avenue  is  closed  1») 
stakes  with  sharp  points  sloping  towards   the  entrance. 


ty 
(111 


KlTllliN    HITS. 


S7A 


lirir   (If  1- 
(•vttlnti<'ii-i 
iiit'iits.      A 
,  tlmtiks  tn 
•r  incident.' 
he  Iniliks  of 
itt)  tilt'  sus- 
•  nlii'lil  I'our 
1  ill  tin-  tciit 
iiii  only  iwM 
(•MttTiMl  in  ;i 
»',  l;i_V  down: 
111  IJH'lr  cnii- 
visitiii;4'<li"'ii' 

KSt'    illninl   1" 

■  ir  Ih»\vs  ;iii'1 
wiiy  into  tlif 
listi-nin;;'  nii 
lie  c'onvt'fs;!- 
iis  in  (liiii'^vr. 

l(.y  tlit'i'fiil"'^' 

ic   lent   illiil 

two,  ill  ••n- 

sli:ir«"l  ill'' 

tlic  trilM'  u^ 

•V,   t'ov  tli''ii' 
•ii  tlicy  catcli 
narrow  i>iirt> 
clcei'-baski'ts. 
wards  spviuu' 
<-r,  and  lny  i" 
oTounds  tiv- 
,onnds.     Two 
id  nniti'd  l>y 
L-c^-nlar  truco, 
,>'iii  tlie  turn 
is  oli.sod  i>y 
cntnuu-e,  "H 


wliirli  tlu'  rt'indt.'oi',  driven  to-^ctlicr  and  liolly  pnrsnod  l»y  the 
Indians,  may  inipalo  tli*-nisflvt>.s  in  tln-ir  dospcral*'  llii^lil. 
Tlic  strncliirt'  is  tTi'i-li'd  witli  <4r<'at  lalMUjr.  as  tlio  rmilMT 
lias  to  Ih'  t ran>|»ortcd  into  tlir  o|m'|i  rdiiiili's  IVoin  a  coiisidtT- 
alil<'  distance.  Sonic  dl'  tlicsc  may  In-  a  icntnry  old,  and 
tJH'v  arc  tlic   hrreditaVN   possession   of  tlic  lamilies  or  tiilti'S 

Ity  wliom  tliey  wei ri^inally  coiistnietcd. 

Iliit   in  spite  of  all    llieir  eont  rl\  a  iiees  and    tlie  use  of  lire- 

iiriiis,  the  Knteliin,  whose  mnnhers  on  the  hanKs  of  the  N'id\oji 

iii'i' est imated   at    ahont    a    tlitnisand    nmn    and    hoys   al<le    to 

lilllit,  are    fre(|Ueiitly    redueed    to    ^reat    distress.       Ilelice    the 

hM  and   inlirm   are  mercilessly  left    to  theii-  fate  when   ^anie 

is  scarce,  and  fanune  makes  itsrlf  felt.      Attempts  have  heeii 

viiinly  made  to  hetter  the  c(»iidition  of  the   noithei'n  Indians 

li\  indncin;^' them  to  tame  the  reindeer,     'riicir  sniierst ition 

is  one  (»f  the  oh^tacl(•s   a^;ainst    this    nsefiij    Innovation,  for 

tlicy    fear    that     were    tln-y    to   make    some   of  the    I'eindeer 

llicir  captives,   the   remainder  would   immediately   leave    the 

eninitry.       'And    why,'    they   \[i\i\,    'sjioiild    we    follow    lik«; 

sl;ives    a    herd   of   tame   animals,    when    the    forest    and    the 

liarrcn   n'ronnd    pro\  ide  ns   wllh    the   rlk',  the  wild    reindeer, 

mill  th<'  mnsk-ox,  and  onr  ri\ei's  and    lakes  are    tilled   with 

fishes    that    cost    lis    nothinn'   Init    the    troidde    of   catcliin;^" 

tlicii|-J' 

lla<'h  family  possesses  a  deer-skin  tent  or  lod^e.  which  in 
siniimer,  when  in  ([iiest  ol"  Li'anie.  is  rarely  ereeted.  The 
winter  (>ncam[)meiit  is  nsnulis  in  a  L;'i'o\e  ot"  spriiee-tlrs  ; 
tlic  Li'i'onnd  heini;'  cleared  of  snow,  the  skins,  wliieli  ai'e 
piTpared  with  the  hair,  are  extended  o\cr  i!t.'\il>le  willow- 
jiiilcs  whi(di  take  a  semi-ciicnlar  loim.  This  hcmisplierieal 
sliapc  of  hul^-es  is  not  alto^'etlier  iinkiiown  anioiiL;'  llie 
Clicpewyans  and  Crees,  hein^'  Ih;  t  ^ciieralls  adapted  for 
their  vaponr  haths.  framed  <>{'  willow-jioles.  hiil  their  dwell- 
iiiii'  places  ai'e  roiiical,  as  >tilV  poles  are  ii,,,'il  for  their 
reiistruction. 

When  the  tent  is  erected  the  snow  is  paidxed  on  outside  to 
half  its  heiii'ht,  and  it  is  lined  eqiialK  hi^ii  within  with  the 
youny  spray  of  the  s[»riice-lii'.  that  the  liodies  of  the  inmates 
ma  v  not  rest  uti'ainst  the  cold  wall.     T'hedoorwav  is  tilled  np 


376 


TUB    TOLA II   WOlUil). 


by  a  (l(>nl)l«^  fi»ld  of  slciii,  and  the  a|»artiMent  has  the  closeness 
andwanntli  bnt  not  tlie  eh'i^unee  of  the  Esquimaux  snow- 
hut,  Avliieli  it  resembh^'S  in  sliape.  Thou^-h  only  a  very  small 
fire  is  kept  in  the  centre  of  the  lodye,  yet  the  warmth  is  us 
j^reat  as  in  a  log'-house.  The  provisions  are  stored  on  the 
outside  under  fir-branches  and  suoav,  and  further  protected 
from  the  dogs  by  sledg'es  being-  placed  on  top. 


^ 


Thf  Pau  Marten. 


IIil!  at  Kapids  ou  3c, ir  lake  Hivcr. 


CIIAPTKR  XXXI. 

ARCTIC    VOYAGES    OF    DISf'OVKKV    FROM    THE    C  A  DOTS    TO 

BAFFIN. 


Fir~t  Sc;iiiilinavian  Disco  von  t  of  America    -T'uc  CalHits — Will 


oii'iniiv  aiK 


in 


lan- 


■llnr  I  l.')j;j-l  .■).■)  I ) — St  I  [ill  I'll  Uuri'oiiuli  ( !,'),")(;  )--l'"riil)is!irr  ( laJd-l.'iJS) — I)avi 


l."..s'i-!o,S7)-    Uarciitz.  V<<v\ 


iclis 


aiii 


i; 


(l.')!ili— WiiifciMiii:  "I'  tiir    I>iitch 


N 


Ihr 


ivi-ators  ill  Niivaya  /cinlya  (  1  •■)!)(!-]. ■)!)7) — John  Knight  (  UiOUj-  3Iiii\lei'nl  by 
fiuiiiiaiix — lliiiry  IIiuImui  ( l(iu7-l()i>i))  — IJatlin  (KilG). 


1 


<>X(J  before  Columbus  sailed  from  the  port  of  Palos 
I  (1  li)2)  on  that  ever  memorable  voyai^e  which  chaii'^'ed 
tljf  ovogTapliy  of  the  Avorld,  tlie  Scandinavians  had  already 
t'niiiul  the  Avay  to  North  America.  From  (ireenland,  "which 
was  known  to  them  as  early  as  the  ninth  century,  and  which 
they  l)e<4'an  to  coh>nise  in  the  year  J'S-"),  they  sailed  farther 
to  the  west,  and  jjiTadiially  extended  their  discoveri(>s  from 
thf  coasts  of  Labrador,  Nova  Scotia,  and  Newfoundland,  to 
these  (if  the  present  state  of  Jiliode  Island,  which,  from  the 
wilil  vines  they  there  found  ynjwin^-  in  abundance,  they 
•.•iiUed  the  '  j^ood  Vinland.' 

lint  a  lone-  series  of  disasters  destroyed  their  Greeidand 
veli.iiics  about  the  end  of  the  fourteenth  century,  and  as 
^'■uiidinavia  itself  had  at  tluit  time  but  very  little  intercourse 
with  the  more  civilised  nations  of  Southern  Europe,  it  is  not 
'"  he  Wondered  at  that,  despite  the  discoveries  of  (.Uinnbjorn 


$78 


Tin:  I'oi-AK  wo];lt). 


and    Erie   tlio  Rod,   the  ^Teiit  westcTii    ciniLiiunt  iviiuiiiinl 
iiiiknowii  to  the  world  in  <4eneral. 

One  of  the  first  eoiise(jUenees  of  the  aehicvements  of 
Cohiiiibuswas  the  ir-diKcon'rii  of  tht,^  northern  pai't  of  Anierica, 
for  the  Enjflish  niorchants  lon;[;'ed  to  have  a  slmre  of  the  coiii- 
morce  of  India ;  and  as  tlie  Pope  had  assii^-ned  the  easicni 
ronte  to  the  Portuynese  and  the  western  one  to  the  Spaniards, 
they  resolved  to  aseertain  whether  a  third  and  shorter  way 
to  the  Spiee  Islands,  or  to  the  fahnlons  ;4-olden  re^'ions  of 
the  east,  niio-ht  not  be  found  by  steering-  to  the  north-west. 
In  pursnanee  of  these  views  John  and  Sebastian  Cabot  saili-d 
in  11J)7  from  Bristol,  at  that  time  our  tirst  eomnunvial  [»or1. 
and  diseovere<l  the  Avhole  American  coast  from  Labradoi- tn 
Viru'inia.  They  failed  indeed  in  the  obii^'t  of  their  missimi. 
but  they  laid  the  Hrst  foundations  of  the  future  colonial 
greatness  of  Enj^'land. 

A  second  voyao-o  in  1  IDS  by  Sebastian  Cabot  alon(>,  witlmut 
the  companionship  of  his  father,  had  no  important  resiilt>. 
but  in  a  third  voyaj^'e  which  he  undertook  in  search  of  a 
north-wa'st  passa^'e,  at  Henry  VIFl.'s  expense,  in  1-M(i  ^r 
1517,  it  is  tolerably  certain  that  that  ^-reat  navi^^'ator  ili^- 
covered  the  two  straits  which  now  bctir  the  names  of  l)a\i- 
and  Hudson. 

The  French  expeditions  of  Vera/.zani  (lo--»i  and  Jucipic- 
Cartier  (lo'Jl),  however  memorable  in  other  res[)ects,  liaviiii: 
been  as  unsuccessful  as  those  of  Cortereal  (^1. ")(»(>)  or  (Joiiu/ 
(1521)  in  discovering-  the  desired  north-western  iiassa-v. 
Sebastian  Cabot,  who  in  1511)  was  created  Grand  Pilot  it 
En<jfland,  started  in  his  old  a^e  another  idea,  which  has 
become  alnmst  etjually  momentous  in  the  history  of  Aivtii 
discovery — the  search  for  a  north-eastern  route  to  China. 
Accordin<>'ly,  in  the  year  155o,  a  S(piadron  of  three  small 
vessels,  under  the  command  of  Sir  Hn<i'h  AV'illoiiuld'^- 
Chancellor,  and  Durfoorth,  set  sail  from  Ratclitfe,  with  (la 
vain  hope  of  reachhiy  India  by  sailing-  round  North  Asia,  tla' 
formation  and  vast  extent  of  which  were  at  that  time  totally 
unknown. 

Ott' Senjan,  an  ishnid  on  the  !N't)rwe^'ia n  coast  in  hit.  (I'.'l  . 
the  ships  parted  company  in  a  stormy  nii^ht  nevr  to  inert 


VOYA<ii;.S    OF    WILLOL'dllBY    AM)    CIIAXCKLLOR. 


379 


,    I'OllUUnnl 

reiueiits   "I' 
)f  AiiK'fit-a, 

of  tlu!  COIII- 

>  Spauiiinls. 
^liorti'V  way 

north-west. 
Cabot  r^ailol 
uoirial  port.       j 

Lubrudort'i 
ln'iv  inissiou. 
nrc    t-nloiiial 

lone,  wiilu'iit 

L-tiiut  result >. 

seareli  ef  a 

.,   ill    l'>li>  "!■ 

ivi^-alor  «li-^- 

ues  of  l)a\i- 

aiitl  JaeiHii'- 
K'ets,  haviuu' 
H>)  or  C!>'inf/. 
:ern   passu-''. 
ami  Pil"t  "f 
1,   wliieli    lia> 
,,vy  of  AivtK 
ite  i(»   CliiiKi. 
throe   small 
WilloULilil'v. 
itfe,  Avitli  thr 
lorlli  Asia,  til'' 
t  time  tntallv 

I  in  lat.  <ii'^  • 

Illt'V'V  to  lliei't 


a^ain.  Willoiiyhby  and  Durfoortli  roaeliecl  the  coast  of 
Xovaya  Zenilya,  and  ultimately  sou^rht  a  harhonr  in  Lapland 
on  the  went  side  of  the  entrance  into  the  White  Sea,  where 
the  captain-f^eneral,  officers,  and  crews  of  lioth  ships  were 
miserably  frozen  to  death,  as  some  Russian  fishermen  ascer- 
tained in  the  following-  sprin^-.  How  lon<4'  they  sustained 
tlie  severity  of  the  weather  is  not  known,  but  the  journals  and 
ii  will  found  on  board  the  'Admiral'  proved  that  Sir  Huyh 
Willoug'hby  and  most  of  that  ship's  company  were  alive  in 
January,  155  f.  They  died  the  victims  of  inexperience,  for 
had  they,  as  Sir  John  Richardson  remarks,  been  skilled  in 
hniitinj^  and  chtthin^-  themselves,  and  taken  the  precaution 
laoi'eover  of  hiving-  in,  at  the  beginning  of  the  winter,  a  stock 
(if  mossy  turf,  such  as  the  country  produces  for  fuel,  and 
above  all  had  they  secured  a  ftnv  of  the  very  many  seals 
and  belu^ie  which  abounded  in  the  sea  around  them,  they 
iiiig-lit  have  preserved  their  lives  and  passed  an  endurable 
winter. 

Chancellor  was  either  nutre  fortunate  or  tiiore  skilful,  for 
lifter  havino-  long  been  buffeted  about  by  stormv  weather, 
he  eventually  reached  St.  Nicholas  in  theAVhite  Sea.  From 
tlu'uce  he  proceeded  overland  to  Moscow,  and  delivered  his 
credentials  to  the  Czar,  Ivan  Yasilovitch,  from  whom  he 
obtained  many  privileges  for  the  company  of  merchants  who 
hiid  fitted  out  the  expedition.  In  1551  he  returned  to 
England,  and  shortly  afterwards  Avas  sent  back  t(»  Russia  by 
(,^ueen  Mar}'  tV)r  the  purpose  of  neg-otiating-  a  tn-aty  of  com- 
men-e  between  the  two  nations.  Having  satisfactorily  ac- 
eomplished  his  mission,  he  once  more  set  sail  from  the 
White  Sea,  accompanied  by  a  Muscovite  ambassador.  But 
this  time  the  return  voyage  was  extremely  inifortunate,  for 
Chancellor,  after  losing-  two  of  his  vessels  off  the  coast  of 
Norway,  was  carried  by  a  violent  tempest  into  the  bay  of 
Pitsligo  in  Scotland,  where  his  ship  was  wrecked.  He 
endeavoured  to  save  the  and.)assador  and  himself  in  a  boat, 
but  the  small  pinnace  was  upset;  and  although  the'  Russian 
safely  reached  the  strand,  the  Englishman,  after  having 
t'stapi'd  so  many  dangers  in  the  Arctic  (Jcean,  was  drowned 
within  sight  of  his  native  shores. 


380 


TIIK    I'OLAR   WOULD. 


In  155G  the  Muscovy  Company  iittcd  ont  the  Sorelitliril't 
jiinnacc,  under  the  coniiniuid  of  Stephen  BuiTonr»'h,  fm- 
discovery  towards  the  Iliver  Obi  and  further  search  for  a 
north-east  passa^-e.  This  snuill  vessel  reached  the  strait 
between  Novaya  Zeiidya  and  Vaij^Mts,  called  by  the  llussiaiis 
the  Kara  Gate,  but  the  enormcnis  masses  of  ice  that  came 
floating-  through  the  channel  compelled  it  to  return. 

In  spite  of  these  repeated  disappointments,  the  desire  to 
discover  a  northern  route  to  India  was  too  great  to  allow  ;iu 
enterprising-  nation  like  the  English  to  abandon  the  scheme 
as  hopeless. 

Thus  in  the  days  of  Elizabeth  the  question  of  the  N.W. 
passage  was  again  revived,  and  INIartiu  Frobisher,  who  had 
solicited  merchants  and  n(»bles  during  fifteen  years  for  means 
to  undertake  ' /A''  onJi/  <iri''if   f/iiiKj  left   nitiUme  in.  flir  irarlil,' 
sailed  in  the  year  lo7G  with  three  small  vessels  of  ;)•"),  -"{O,  jnnl 
10  tons,  on  no  less  an  errand  than  the  circumnavigation  of 
northern  America.     The  reader  nuiy  smile  at  the  ig-noraucc 
which  encouraged  such  eft'orts,  but  he  cannot  fail  to  a<liniiv 
the  iron-hearted  man  who  ventTired  in  sueh  wretched  nut- 
shells to  face  the  Arctic  seas.     The  expedition  safely  readieil 
the  coasts  of  Greenland  and  Labrador,  and   brought   luuiie 
some  ii'litterinii'  stones,  the  lustre  of  which  was  erronei>uslv 
attributed  to  gold.     This  belief  so  inflamed  the  zeal  for  new- 
expeditions  to  '  Meta  Incognita,'   as   Frobisher  had  naiueil 
the  coiists  he  had  discovered,  that  he  found  no  ditlicnlty  in 
equipping  three  ships  of  a  much  larger  size,  that  they  mi^'lit 
be  able  to  hold  more  of  the  anticipated  treasure.     At  Die 
entrance    of  the  straits  Avhich  still  bear  his  name,   he  wiis 
prevented  by  the  gales  and  drift-ice  from  forcing  a  passiii^e 
to  the  sea  beyond,  but  having  secured  about  200  tons  of  the 
supposed  golden  ore  the  expedition  was  considered  eminently 
successful.     A  large  squadron  of  iifteen  vessels  was  conse- 
quently fitted  out  in  lo7S  for  a  third  voyag-e,  and  commissioned 
not  only  to  bring-  back  an  untold  amount  of  treasure  but  iil>it 
to  take  out  materials  aiul  men  to  establish  a  C(»lony  on  tliese 
desolate    shores.      But  this  graiul  expedition,   which  sailed 
with  such  extravagant  h(»pes,  was  to  end  in  disapprdntn)ent. 
One  of  the  largest  vessels  was  crushed  by  an  iceberg  a1  <lii' 
entrance  of  the  strait,  and  the  others  were  so  beaten  about  liy 


VOVAGK   OF    DAVIS. 


381 


erclithril't 
ou^li,  for 
rcU  for  ;i 
tlie  strait 
B  llussi.uis 
that  oaine 
11. 

0  desire  to 
to  allow  an 
the  sclieiue 

t'  the  N.W. 

[',    AvllO    luid 

•s  for  means 

1  the  forliK' 
•:',:),  :5(),  aii.l 
avigation  uf 
e  io-iioraiu'i-' 


storms  and  obstructed  by  fo<^'S  that  they  were  at  leiif;'th  ;j^lad 
to  return  to  En^^-land  witliout  havin<4' done  anyihiii^'  for  tlu; 
advancement  of  o-coM-riipliicjil  knowlcdn-o.  Tlu>  utter  worth- 
Icssness  of  the  olitterin;Li'  stones  liavinm'  meanwhile  been 
(liscovercMl,  Frobisher  reliniinisliod  all  I'urtliev  attempts  to 
]insh  his  fortunes  in  the  northern  ivj4'ions,  and  sought  new 
laurels  in  a,  sunnier  clime,  lie  accompanitMl  Drake  to  tho 
AVi^st  Indies,  commanded  subse(iueiitly  one  of  tlie  lar«^-est 
vessels  opposed  to  the  Spanish  Armada,  and  endi'd  his  heroic 
life  wliile  attaehin<if  a  small  French  fort  in  behalf  of  Henry  IV. 
iliiriii^"  the  war  with  the  Lea^aie. 

The  discovery  of  the  north-western  passa^'o  was,  however, 

still  tho  great  enti'rprise  of  the  day,  and  thus  sundry  London 

au'ivhants    a<4-ain   'cast   in   their  adventure,'    and    sent    out 

John    Davis    in    loSo,  ^vith  his    two  ships,  '•Sunshine'  and 

'Moonshine,'  carrying*',  besid(.'s  their  more  necessary  cqui]*- 

iHcuts,  a  band  of  music  '  to  cheer  and  recreate  the  spirits  of 

the  natives.'     Davis  arrive<l   in   si^"ht  of  the   southwestern 

(•(last  of  Greenland,  where  he  saw  a  hiyh  mountain  (Snklcer- 

t(iiipen)   to\verinj4'  like  a  cone  of  silver   over  tin.'  fofj  which 

viili'd  the   dismal   shore.     The  voya<i'ers  were  i^'lad  to  turn 

fnnii  tlu^  o^loomy  scene,  and  to  steer  throui^h  the  open  water 

to  tlie  north-west,  where,  on  August  (I,  they  discovere<l  land 

in  latitude  OO"  10'  altogether  free  from  'the  pesters  of  ice, 

iiinl  ank(nvd  in  a  very  fair  ro<le.''     A  friendly  understand- 

iiii:'   was    established    with    the    Esquimau   ,    and    a    lively 

irailic  oi)ened,   the  natives  eagerly    giving  their  skins  and 

furs  j'or  beads  and  knives,  until  a  l)risk  wind  separated  the 

strange    visitants  from    their  sim})le-ininded  friends.       The 

ii'iuainder  of  tho  season  was  spent  in    exploring   Cnmber- 

liiml  Sound  and  the  entranee  to  Fr(»bisher's  and  lludscjn's 

Straits. 

In  the  following  year  Da\is  undertook  a  second  voyage  to 
tln' n()l•th-^vest,  for  which  tla.'   *  Snnshine  '  and  '  jVIoonshini.' ' 


Wcl'i 


auain  en!>aov( 


with  two  other  vessels.  On  June  21>, 
l-VsC,  ]i,>  landed  on  the  coast  of  Greenland,  in  latitude  (i  T, 
iiiid  soon  after  steered  to  the  west.  The  enormous  ice-floes 
^vliicli,  as  is  well  known,  eome  driiting  from  Batliu's  IJay 
until  the  season  is  far  advanced,  opposi'd  his  progress.  For 
^"ine  davs  he  coasted  these  lloatin'*-  islands,  Avhen  a  foi>' eamo 


m^M 


mmmr 


382 


THK    POLAR   AV(H![-D. 


on,  duriiiL;'  wliich  ropes,  siiils,  and  c-orda^^'o,  avoiv  alike  fast 
frozen,  and  tlie  seamen,  lio])eless  of  acconiplishinj^-  the  inis- 
sa;4-e,  warned  tlieir  conunandei-  tliat  *  by  liis  over-boldness  he 
niio'lit  cause  tlieir  widows  and  fatherless  children  to  give  him 
bitter  curses.' 

Touched  by  this  appeal,  Davis  ordered  two  of  his  ships  to 
return  home,  and  pushing"  on  in  the  'Moonshine'  with  the 
biddest  of  his  lV)llowers,  he  reached  the  American  shore, 
which  he  coasted  from  07"  to  o7°  of  latitude.  Oft'  tlie 
coast  <d'  Labrador,  two  of  his  sailors  Avere  killed  by  tlio 
natives,  and  8ep>tember  beino-  ushered  in  by  violent  gales, 
he  c^ave  no  farther  attempts  tor  the  year,  and  returned  to 
Eni^l.inu. 

On  .line  li),  1587,  we  once  more  find  him  on  the  coast  of 
Greenland,  ni  his  (dd  tried  bark  the  '  Sunshine,'  in  company 
with  t.'  '  T'']i/abe1l)  '  and  a  pinnace.  The  supplies  for  this 
third  voya<4e  Ix^ng  furnished  luider  the  exjn'ess  condition 
that  the  expenses  should  be  lightened  as  much  as  possible 
by  fishing  at  all  suitable  times,  the  two  larger  ships  were 
stationed  for  the  purpose  near  the  part  of  the  coast  wliieli 
they  had  formerly  visited,  while  Davis  steered  forward  in  tlie 
small  and  ill-conditioned  vessel  Avhich  alone  remained  at  his 
disposal.  He  fii-st  sailed  along  the  (jreenland  coast  as  far  as 
72''  lat.,  where,  having  fairly  entered  Bafhn's  Bay,  he  named 
the  point  at  which  he  touched  Sanderson's  Hope,  in  honeiii' 
of  his  chief  patron,  and  then  steered  to  the  west,  until  he 
once  mf)re  fell  in  with  the  ice-barrier,  which  had  prevented 
his  progress  the  year  before.  Time  and  perseverance,  how- 
ev'c'r,  overcame  all  obstacles,  and  by  July  19  he  had  crossed 
to  the  opposite  side  of  the  strait  which  bears  his  name.  Ho 
then  sailed  for  two  days  up  Cumberland  Strait — Avhich,  it  Avill 
be  remembered,  he  discovered  on  his  first  expedition — hnt 
believing  this  })assage  to  be  an  enclosed  gulf,  he  returned,  mid 
again  passing  the  entrance  to  Hudson's  Bay,  without  an  efti>ri 
to  investigate  it,  repaired  to  the  rendezvous  apjjointed  fur 
the  two  whaling  vessels,  to  meet  him  on  their  way  to  England. 
But  who  can  paint  his  astonishment  and  consternation,  wlieii 
he  f<mnd  that  his  companions  had  sailed  aAvay,  leaving  him 
to  find  his  Avay  home  in  his  miserable  pinnace,  wddch,  h"^^- 
ev<'r,  landed  him  safely  on   his  native  shores.     This  was  the 


DUTCH    KNTKIirillSi:. 


383 


nlike  iUst. 
f  the  pas- 
olduoss  ln' 
(>  o-ivo  liiii) 

is  ships  to 
'  with  the 
ican  shoro, 
..  Ott'  th<.' 
led  by  the 
jlent  gules, 
i-eturiied  to 

tho  coast  of 
in  coiupiiny 
[)lios  for  this 
(is  coiiditinii 
h  as  possible 
r  ships  Aveve 
coast  Avhidi 
.vward  in  tho 
luiined  at  his 
ast  as  far  as 
ly,  he  named 
in  honour 
until  he 
ntea 
liow- 


lost, 
lid  pr 


lorauce, 


(iVO 


had  crossed 
Ih 


I 


naiuo. 


Lvhich,  it  Avill 


Kh 


lition 


--hut 


'turiiod,  !i 


n< 


\ 


lOut  an  e 


ttoii 


)0 


inted  tur 


iPl 

to  Eni:i'laiHl. 

Illation,  AV 
leaving 


w 


hich,  1 


irhis  was 


hen 
him 

l()\Y- 


th 


I;i>i  of  the  Arctic  voyajxcs  of  that  givat  navio-ator.  for  tho 
>pirit  of  the  nation  was  chilled  by  his  three  snccessive  <lisap- 
)M.iiitiaents ;  and  all  the  zeal  with  -which  he  pleaded  for  a 
lunrlli  expoditioii  proved  frnitl(>ss. 

lie  snl)se(piently  made  five  voyages  to  Ihe  East  Indies,  and 
^v;ls  killed  ())i  DeciMnl)er  27,  1  ()(>.'),  on  the  coast  of  Malacca,  in 
II  tlLiht  with  the  ]\[alays. 

Seven  vears  after  Davis's  last  Arctic  vovaufe,  the  Dutch 
iii:i(le  their  first  a])peara,nce  on  the  scene  of  northern  discovery. 
Tiiis  persevering'  people  had  just  then  succeeded  in  castinj^* 
dlVtlie  S[)anish  yoke,  and  was  now  striving"  to  ^ain,  by  the 
development  of  its  nuiritime  trade,  a  position  amono-  the 
lU'iuhbourinL;-  states,  which  the  smallness  of  its  territory 
sfiiiicd  to  deny  to  it.  All  the  known  avenues  to  the  treasures 
uf  llu'  south  were  at  that  time  too  well  y'uarded  by  the  fleets 
iif  Povtu;4al  and  8pain  to  admit  of  any  rivalry  ;  but  if  fortune 
I'avourcil  thorn  in  lindinn'  the  yet  unexph>red  northern  pas- 
siije  1o  India,  they  mi;4ht  still  hope'  to  secure  a  lion's  share 
ill  that  most  hu*rative  of  trades. 

Aiiiiiiatecl  liy  this  laudable  spirit  of  cnterpiMse,  the  mer- 
ili;iiiis  (if  Amsterdam,  Knkhui/en,  and  ^Middelbur^-  fitted  out 
ill  1  MM  an  ex[»editiiin  in  <|nrst  ol'  the  north-eastern  passa<4"e, 
wiii'ii  they  onti'uslod  lo  the  command  <tf  Cornelins  tN>rnelis- 
/jHiii.  |>i'ant  Ysbrantzoon,  and  William  Harentz.  one  of  the 
iiii>>1  experienced  seamen  of  the  day.  The  three  V(>ssels 
sailed  IV<»m  the  Texel  on  .lune  (i,  and  having"  reaidied  the 
•  east  (if  l^apland,  sepiiraied  into  two  divisions;  IJarentz 
iliedsjiiu-  the  holder  coursi^  of  coastini;'  the  wi'st  side  of 
Xevaya  Zemlya,  as  far  as  the  islands  of  ()ran<jfe,  the  most 
ii'iitlieilv  points  of  the  ar(diipelau'o;  whih>  his  less  adventurous 
ii'iiirades  were  contented  to  sail  alon^'  the  Kussian  coast, 
until  iliev  rea(died  a  strait  to  wlii(di  tliev  ii'ave  the  very 
.i;i|>re|iviate  name  of  \'ai'.rats,  uv  '  Wind  Hole.'  Forcing- 
tliiii'  wav  throue'h  the  ice.  wlii(di  alnK)st  ctmstantlv  blocks 
ii|i  the  entrance  to  the  Ka.i'a  Sea.  tliev  saw,  (in  roundintr  a 
lireiiH.utdvy  at  the  other  end  of  the  strait,  a  clear  expanse  of 
l»liie  (ipen  sea,  stretchin;j;-  onward  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
I'lach,  while  the  continent  trended  away  rapidly  towards 
'111'  sniith-east.  They  noAV  no  lonycr  doulited  that  tliey  had 
"^lil'd   found  the  famous  ('a[»e  Tabin— a  fabulous  headland, 


884 


TFII-:    POLAR   WORLD. 


which,  [iccordino-  to  Plin^^  (an  iiulispiitiihle  niithority  in 
those  times  of  i^eo^Tiiphical  iynorance),  loniu'd  th«'  iKtrthcin 
oxtrciiiitv  of  Aisiii,  from  whence  the  V(»vii«i;i'  was  supixtscil  td 
he  easy  to  its  eastern  and  southern  shores.  Lilth>  did  lirant 
and  ( 'ornelius  dream,  that  within  the  Aretie  Circh>  the  Asiatir 
coast  still  stretched  ]  20°  to  the  east  ;  and  fully  trusting-  tli<ii' 
erroneous  impressions,  they  started  in  full  sail  f(»r  ilollainl, 
ea<4'<'r  to  brinj^-  to  their  countrymen  the  news  of  their  ima- 
ginary success.  Oft'  Russian  Lapl;.nd  they  fell  in  with  Jiarciitz. 
who,  having  arrived  at  the  northern  extremity  of  Novaya 
Zemlya — a  higher  hititiide  than  any  navigator  is  recorded 
to  have  reached  befot'e — had  turne<l  back  before  strong  up- 
posing  winds  and  floating  ice,  and  the  three  vessels  returiR'd 
together  to  Tex».'l. 

Such  were  the  hopes  raised  by  the  discovery  of  the  imat^i- 
nary  Capo  Tabiii,  that,  losing  sight  of  their  habitual  cautidii, 
the  merchants  of  Middelburg,  Enkhui/en,  Ilotterdam,  and 
Amsterdam  immediately  fitted  out  a  fleet  of  six  shi[)s,  laden 
with  all  sorts  of  merchandise  fit  for  the  Indian  mai'kct.  A 
little  yacht  w^as  addi'd,  which  was  to  accompany  the  ilei'i  as 

far  as  that  promontory,  and  thence  to  return  with  the  l; 1 

news,  that  the  squadron  had  been  left  steering  witha  favtmi- 
able  wind  right  oft' to  India.  But,  as  may  well  be  sn])p(iS('d. 
these  sanguine  hopes,  built  on  the  unsubstantial  fabric  of  a 
vision,  were  doom*  d  to  a  woful  disappointment,  for  tlu' 
'Wind  Hole  Strait,'  doing  full  justice  to  its  name,  did  iint 
allow  the  vessels  to  pass;  and  after  fruitless  eft'orts  to  torn' 
their  way  through  the  ice-blocks  which  obstructed  that  in- 
hospitable channel,  they  returned  crestfallen  to  the  jMUt 
whence  they  had  sailed  a  few  months  before  Avith  such 
brilliant  expectations. 

Although  great  disappointment  Avas  felt  at  this  failnii'. 
the  scheme  of  sailing  round  Cape  Tabin  to  India  was,  how- 
ever, not  abandoned  by  the  persevering  Amsterdan)ers ;  and. 
on  May  IG,  150G,  IIeemsk(n-k,  Barentz,  and  Cornelis  Kyp 
once  more  started  for  the  north-east.  Bear  Island  and 
Spitzbergen  were  discovered,  Avhereupon  the  ships  sc]ia- 
rated,  Cornelis  and  Ileemskerk  retm*ning  to  Holland,  \\liilf 
Barentz,  slowly  making  his  way  through  the  fog  and  ice. 
advanced  to  tln^  most  nortluM-n  point  of  Novaya  Zemlya.  1li' 


AN     .\li(  rk     WIMl.K. 


;iM.» 


utliovity    in 
;lie  iioviht'in 

snpp(»stMl  lo 
tie  did  r>v:nii 
e  tlvL'  Asintir 
rustiu<^'  tli'iv 

for  lli.Uau.l, 
i)t*  tlieir  iinii- 
witU  Buvciitz, 

ty    of  KoVllVil 

,r  is  ivconU'd 
IV  strong'  •'!»- 
ssels  retiirnf'I 

of  tlie  ima^i- 
bitual  caution. 
.otti^rdiiin,  '.nitl 
Ax  ships,  ladt'ii 
[in  uuirkft.  A 
uiy  tlio  iU'«'t  as 

with  the  u"nil 

.•  Avithll  filVoHV- 
•11  1)0  supposotl 
Itial  hibvii-  .'f  ;i 


[im'ii 


name 


t,   fev   th.' 
did  n"t 


lottovts  to  t'oKO 
ted  that  iu- 


ruc 
'11 


to  the  1 


ovt 


love 


AV 


ith   sudi 


kt  this  faihin 


liidiii  was. 


luiw- 


n-daiuers ;  aiul. 
CovneUs  KyV 
Ishnid  au'l 


ar 


lie    shiL»s    sei 
I  Holland,  w' 

|io  fop;  ill" 
,va  Zendya, 


lii- 


uie 


1    U'C. 


Ilu 


.  rcw  heiiijjf  enc()ririi;;"e(l  l»y  tlie  tidiiiy's,  that  from  the  ]ii;;1i 
I  litis  (if  ()raii;4<'  Ishmd  elear  open  water  had  breu  seen  to 
till'  soulh-t.'ast.  The  effort  to  rradi  this  iiivitiii!^-  ehainiel 
w.i  >  frnstraleil  by  the  ice,  whidi  u-athered  aVioiit  tlie  sliip 
il■^  it  lav  near  shore,  and  ■j-raduallv  collectiiin'  inidi'r  aii<l 
ai'.dind  it,  raised  it  far  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  All  hope 
(if  iituru  before  the  next  summer  now  vanishrd.  but  these 
III  ive  sailors  submitted  with  nisi^-nation  t(»  their  l'at>',  '  thon^i'li 
iiiiiidi  ^^-rievi'd,'  says  (lerrit  de  Veer,  who  was  hinisriraii  cyc- 
wiliiess  of  all  the  incidents  he  relatt.'s,  '  to  live  there  all  that. 
(did  winter,  which  we  knew  would  fall  out  to  be  extremely 
Mttci'/  Fortunately  a  qiiantity  of  drift-wood  was  found  on 
the  strand,  which  served  the  Dutchmen  b(»tli  for  tln'  con- 
struction of  a  small  hut  aiul  for  fuel. 

As  early  as  St'})tendjer,  the  ground  was  frozen  so  hard  that 
ilicy  tried  in  vain  to  dir*'  a  j^'rave  for  a  dead  conu'a<le,  and 
ilicir  eramped  linyvrs  could  hardly  build  the  hut,  whiidi  was 
the  more  necessary,  as  the  vessel,  crackin;^-  under  the  pres^sure 
cf  the  ice,  yave  sij^ais  of  speedily  breakiuL;-  up  altogether, 
liy  the  middle  of  October  the  rude  dwellino-  w'as  comjdetcd, 
1111(1  thou<^'h  its  accommodation  was  scanty,  they  were  .^lad 
tn  take  up  their  abode  in  it  at  once.  The  best  place  l>y  the 
rciitral  lire  was  assii^aied  to  a  sick  con)rade,  while  all  the  r(;st 
;ivran;4i'd  their  beds  as  best  they  could  on  shelves  whitdi  had 
liivii  built  round  the  walls.  An  examination  into  the  state 
I't' tlieir  provisions  showed  the  necessity  of  retluciuL;-  th.'ir 
'laily  rations  of  bread,  cheese,  and  wine,  but  by  settinjj^  tra]»s 
iii'y  cau;^'ht  a  g-ood  many  Arctic  foxes,  which  Lj-ave  them  an 
"leasional  supj'ly  of  fresh  food.  The  sun  had  now  entirely 
':ik('ii  his  departure,  and  the  lon;^"  winter  nii^-ht  of  the  7-^^ 
!■!'  ef  latitude  set  in,  dminn"  which  snowdrifts  and  im[!etuous 
"iiiils  coutined  them  to  their  miserable  lint. 

'  A\'e  looked  pitifully  one  upon  tla.'  other."  says  De  Veer, 
'liiiiiM'  in  o'veat  fear  that  if  the  extremity  of  the  cold  ^rew  to 
'''umre  and  more,  we  slutuld  all  dii*  there  of  c(»l(!,  for  !liiiL 
'inn  lire  soever  we  made  would  not  warm  us." 
The  ice  was  now  two  inches  thick  ujton  the  walls,  and  even 
"!i  the  sides  of  their  sleeping'  cots,  and  the  very  clothes  they 
'"'IV  were  whitened  with  frost.  Vet  in  the  midst  (»f  all  their 
^uttV'rings  these  bravo  nam  nniintained  cheerful  hoai'ts ;  and 

C  c 


380 


TIIK    rOI.AIf    WOllLH. 


so  yrciii    wiis   their    elasticity   of  s[>irit,   tlint   reiiieinUerini;' 
JiiiiUiiry  .")  was  Twell'tli  Eve,  tliey  resolve(l  to  celebrate  it   ;i> 
best  they  iiiij^-lit.     'Aii<l  then,' says  the  (»hl  chroiiicler,  '  we 
l)raye(l  our  IVfaister  that  we  iiiii^ht  be  ineri'y  that  iiii^hl,  ami 
said  tliat  Ave  Aven;  content  to  s[M'nd  some  of  the  wine  tlmt 
ni^-ht  which  we  liad  spared,  and  which  was  our  share  ^nic 
^lass)  <'very  second  day,  and  wliereof  for  e(M'tain<'  days  we  1i;h1 
not  draidce,  and  so  that  nii^-)it  we  made  merry  and  drew  \\>r 
\i'uv^.     And  therewith  we  liad  two  pounds  of  meal,  whei-,(,t' 
Ave  ma<h3  pancalves  with  oylo,  and  every   man  had  a  wliili' 
biscuit  W'hieli  wo  sopt  in  the  wine.     And  so  su[»i>osinL,'  tliiil 
we  were  in  our  owne  country  and  anioni^-st  our  friends,  it  cmii- 
forted  us  well  as  if  we  had  made  a  ^'re at  l)anquct  in  our  owiir 
house.    And  we  also  made  trinkets,  and  onro-uuuer  was  kiii^' 
ofNovaya  Zemlya,  Avhich  is  at  least  800  miles  lone-  and  lyctli 
between  two  seas.' 

On  January  21,  the  edgv  of  the  sun  a,pj)eared  above  tin' 
horizon,  and  the  si^ht  was  a  joyful  one  indeed.  Now  alsn 
the  furious  snow-storms  ceased,  and  thou^-h  the  severity  nt 
the  cold  contiimed  unabated,  they  were  better  able  to  l)rii\v 
the  outer  air  and  to  recruit  their  strength  by  exercise.  AVitli 
the  return  of  daylig-ht  the  bears  came  a<^ain  about  the 
house,  and  some  bein^-  shot,  afforded  a  very  seasonable  sn[iiil\ 
of  grease,  so  that  they  were  able  to  burn  lamps  and  pass  tin' 
time  in  reading-. 

When  summer  returned,  it  was  found  impossible  teiliv- 
engage  the  ice-bound  vessel,  and  the  only  hopes  of  escai'ini:' 
from  this  dn.'ary  prison  now^  rested  on  two  small  boats,  in 
which  they  linally  quitted  the  scene  of  so  much  sutferiii^'  i-n 
Juno  It,  159(3.  On  the  fourth  day  of  their  voyagt',  their 
barks  became  surrounded  by  enin-mous  masses  of  iloatin;^'  iti'. 
which  so  crushed  and  injured  tlicm,  that  the  crews,  giviiiu'  "1' 
all  hope,  took  a  solemn  leave  of  each  other.  But  in  this  des- 
perate crisis  they  owed  their  preserva,tion  to  the  presence  of 
mind  and  agility  of  Do  Veer,  avIio,  with  a  Avell  secured  re|pc. 
leaped  from  one  ice  block  to  another,  till  he  reached  a  hw-j,^'^' 
floe,  on  Avhich  first  the  sick,  then  the  stores,  the  crews,  ainl 
finally  the  boats  themselves  Avere  fairly  landed.  Here  they 
Avere  obliged  to  renuiin  Avhile  the  boats  underAvent  the  neces- 
sary repairs,  and  during  this  detention  upon  a  floating'  ii'' 


ItllATIi    «ii'    i;,\iji;\T/. 


;)>7 


iiicinln'i-ii!:;' 
>1)Vi\to  it   ;i« 

ni;;'lii.  aii'l 
10  wiiu'  tliat 
'  sliiive  'out' 

,l;j_VS  \V<"  li:l<l 

ind  ("Iri'W  t'"V 

IC'.ll,   Wlu'ivnf 

liiul  II  Nvhil'' 

l^yposillL!:    tllilt 

ends,  it  ft'in- 
■  in  ouv  owin' 
iiov  was  kiiiu' 
,ui];-  and  lycth 

ed  aVuno  tli'' 
sd.  Now  also 
ho  sevcviiy  ct 

llbk'   to   I'VilVr 

ovclso.  ^Vi^ll 
in  abo>it  tli'' 
M)nable  supply 
and  pass  tin' 

Lssible  to  <li^- 
os  of  escapiii::' 
Imall  boals.  in 
•h  sutVt'riii'i  "H 
voyaiA'o,  tlu'ii' 
lot'  liuatinu-  i''''- 
nvs,  o-iviii'j:  "r 
lut  in  tliis  dos- 
Jio  presi'iKO  ol 
socuvtHl  r*-|"'. 
lacbod  a,  lav^-cv 
Itlie  oivws.  aii'l 
]d.     Hove  tU^'}' 
I'ont  tbe  lUH'Os- 
a  lloatiug  i^-^' 


lafi,  llii'  ^iillant  liaroiil/ rlcscd  tin'  cVfiit  I'liI  v<>\iiM-c  of  liis 
lili'.  He  died  as  ln'  liiid  11  vcd,  calinly  a  lid  ltravol\ ,  t  liiid\iiiL;- 
less  (if  jiiiiisclf  than  of  Iho  welfare  of  his  feJlow-suHerers.  for 
liis  last  words  were  directions  as  to  the  course  in  which  they 
were  to  stoer.  His  death  was  bitterly  inoiinied  by  the  rou^h 
men  undtT  his  connnand,  and  even  the  ]>ri»s|iecl  of  a  return 
tu  their  homes  ettuld  not  console  them  for  the  loss  of  their 
liijoved  leader.  After  a  most  tedious  passan-e  itbr  by  .Inly  I'S 
tliev  had  only  roaehod  the  southern  exti'emitv  of  Xovava, 
/(  lulya)  they  at  lony'th,  at  the  eml  of  AuLfUst,  ai'rived  at 
Kela  in  Kiissian  La[>lan<l,  where,  to  their  ;^lad  surprise,  they 
Iniind  their  old  conn'ade  John  (/ornelison  li\v[»,  with  whom 
lliey  retunuHl  to  Amsterdam. 

Meanwhile  the  spirit  of  discovery  had  once  mon*  recoyei'cd 
ill  Mn^land  frt)m  tlu' chill  thrown  ujion  it  by  so  nniny  previous 
(lisapi)ointmeiits.  In  ](!<i2,  Weymouth,  while  atteu'jit in<4- to 
s;iil  u[»  the  }»romisinu'  inlet,  n(»w  so  well-known  as  the  entranic 
tn  Hudson's  IJay,  was  repulsed  l)y  a  violent  storm,  and  in 
lilnii  a  melancdioly  issue  awaited  tho  next  expedition  to  tlio 
iiurth-Avest,  which  sailed  under  the  command  of  John  Kniti'lit, 
a  lirave  and  experienced  sailor.  Driven  by  stormy  weather 
aiiKuii;'  the  drift-ice  on  the  coast  of  Labrador,  Knie-ht  was 
tain  to  take  slieltev  in  the  (irst  cov(i  that  presented  itself,  and 
li'st  no  time  in  orderine-  his  daniai^-ed  ship  of  forty  tons  to  bo 
ilniwn  hiy'h  up  on  the  dry  sand  bev».>nd  the  tide  mark,  where 
sill'  iiii^ht  underg'o  the  necessary  repairs. 

This  position,  however,  not  proving"  satisfactory,  he  manned 
his  heat  next  day,  and  while  the  rest  of  the  crew  were  busy  at 
Work,  sailed  across  to  the  other  side  of  the  inlet  to  seek  for 
sniiio  more  convenient  anchorage.  Leavine-  two  men  in 
iliari^e  of  the  boat,  he  landed  Avith  his  niat<'  and  three  of  his 
iiii'ii  t(»  explore  the  strang'O  coast.  They  clind^ed  the  steep 
ai'cliyity  of  the  shore,  lingtn-ed  for  a  moment  on  the  summit 
"f  the  clift's,  and  before  disappearing  on  the  other  side  ex- 
'liau^ed  greetings  of  farewell  with  their  messmates  in  the  Ijoat, 
\vh(t  little  imagined  that  it  was  a  parting  for  ever.  Evening 
laiiie  on  and  then  darkened  into  night,  muskets  were  tii-ed 
ami  trinnpots  sounded,  but  no  answer  was  made,  and  eleven 
"Vleck  arriving  without  anv  sign  or  signal  of  the  missing 
l'arty,the  menwdiohad  tarri(>d  on  shore  mournfully  returned 

C   (     J 


;iss 


Tin;  I'di.Ai;   \Vi»i{i.i». 


Id  llic  slii[»  willi  tlic  (lisiiiiil  tidings  dl'  the  loss  ol"  llicir  lum,. 
conniiiiihlrr  iiiitl  his  coiin'iidps. 

During'  iliis  iiK-liiiiclioly  iii^'lit.  icisscd  in  iilti-niatc  liiniciit- 
iitioiis    iiihl    ]>l;iiis    tor  sciirch    iiml    rescue,    the    ice    Innl   >,. 
iicciiiiillliited    ill    tlie  chiimiel  which    the    iiiit'oi't  iiliiite    l\iii(_;I' 
(•r(»ssi'(l  the  (liiv  lietnre,   thiit    th(»ui4h   the  I»()iit    was  spccdi' 
riu'u-ed    i\,v    the    t'X[icdit i»»ii,  iiiid    the    |i;ii'ty    who   occii]»icd 
were  one  iiiid  nil   uiit'(»iitrcdhihl\  ciii^er  to  stiirt,  the  niornni^' 
lij^ht  convinced  tlic  most  Siiiif^'uine  of  tlie  utter  im[»ossil)ihlv 
of    t'oi-cin<;'    their    \vi\y    across   the    j^'ull".     'J'hus    passed    \\\n 
wivtchcd  days  of  uncertiiinty,  reiuh-rccl  doiil)ly  niiscrahlc  li\ 
the  inactivity  to   whitdi  they  \vei<.'  coiKh'inncd,  when  on  ih. 
iii<j;"ht  of  tlie  second  day  the  lit  tic  encampment  was  attack,, i 
hy    a    larLi'e  party   of  natives,   wdiose  hostility   left    no  diiiil,t 
ahont  the  fate  which  had  hcfallen  their  missine-  friends.     A 
volley  (d*  musketry  soon  dispersccl  the  sava;_';es,  hut    Icaiin, 
future  attacks,  tlu*  crew,  now  only  ei;^dit  in  numlier,  at   eiir, 
ri'solvcd  to   ]>ut  to  sen  in  their  cra/y   l)ark,   which,   tlii'ii:,' 


IS    w 


deprived   of  its  rudder,  and    so    leaky  that  the   pnmi 
ohli^'cd   to    lie    cojistaiitiy  at    wvtrk,  safely   carried    them 
Newloundland. 

In  the  vear  l(,lo7,  Ileiirv  Hudson  made  the  tirsi  atteiiiih 
sail  across  the  Xorth  l\)le,  a  plan  started  in  \-r27  by  h'el 


)i'i'i 


Tliorne,  but  not  yet  acted  U])(»n  by  any  one  durin;^'  the  ci^iii\ 
years  that  liad  since  passed.  ifi>  reacln  il  the  east  rn;i-: 
of  (ireeiiland  in  7-")'' of  latitude,  and  then  proceeded  lutli' 
northern  extremity  of  Spitzber^-en,  but  all  his  eiforts  to  laiiii.  ii 
forth  into  the  unknown  ocean  l.u'vond,  were  batUed  l)\llic  i''' 
tlelds  that  o])posed  his  })ro;^'res.s. 

In  his  next  voyage  (1.G08)  he  vainly  tried  for  tlie  nortli-i'u^t 
p;issaL;v,  but  his  third  voyaj^'o  (I()U!>),  -which  he  perfoniii'(l  in 
the  service  of  the  T3utcli,  led  to  the  discovery  of  the  iiiiii;! 
flccnt  river  Avhich  still  bears  his  nanu',  and  at  whose  iiiou'i. 
the  •  Empire  Oity  '  of  the  p'reat  American  rejniblic  has  avi- 


11- 


rll. 


1!<||' 


Tn  April,  ItJlO,  wo  find  him  setting-  sail  on  the  la>! 
most  celebrated  of  his  voyag'os.  In  all  but  its  conuna 
this  expedilion  was  miserably  inadeqnate  to  the  ol.iject  ef  it- 
mission,  for  it  consisted  only  <.>f  one  vessel  of  tiity-iivc  tms 
jirovisioned  for  six  nu)nths.  and  manned  by  a  crew  Avho  siiccthh 
proved   tliomselves  io   be  utterly  unworthy  of  theii'  leader. 


i:i  liSUN  S    I. AST    \nV\(,i; 


980 


ihriv  ^'iM\'' 

lit"  l;niii'iil- 
icc    had    VI 
ale    Kiii'J' 
•as  sjit't'ili' 
ocM'Ujtifd 
lie  lunriiiiii 
uqtossihiliiv 

l)llSSt'(l     tWH 

luisiTiil'lr  liy 
,vh('U  on  th'' 
,vas  atlai'kfl 

>•  IV'u'iitls.     A 

1,  1»U1     I'tMl'iliJ 

iVh'V,  at   <'ii.r 

■    plllUjiS   w 
I'U'd    Uu'iii  I 

Irst  aticiiil'''  ^" 
,27  l»y  !>'"'" '■' 

llic   cast    (•o;l>', 
cmMlt'tl    tn  111'' 

•ovtstol:nni'''i 
Ue(ll)vllii'i'''' 


On  i'uti'riiio-  Hiidson's  Str.iits,  (lie  \.^\^•J;^'  iiiiisscs  of  ice  wliirh 


ciIi'IiiiiIm'I'ciI  t  lie  slirlarc  nf   ( ||t'  w.il  I'l'  iiiid   I  lit'  t  IThdv  IK  ss  i 


d'tll 


cMii-liiiit  t'i);4's,  iiiadi'  llii'iii  Imsc  all  coura'^'t',  and  t Ih'V  <'ani('>l  l_\ 

li.'_;'L;'<'d  their  ciiiiiiiiandiT  In  I'l'tuni  at  niict'  to  I'hi^daiah     Ihit 

lludsMM  jii-fssed  oil  until  at  last  his  littlf  i)ark  t'lncre-cd  inti»ii 

vast  njM'n  watrr  ri]i|»lin}^'  and  sparKdini,^  in   the  ni<>rnin;4  snn- 

shiiii'.      Hudson's  l>ay  ('xj)andtMl  hd'oi't'  him,  and   t  In- iMirap- 

tnivd   discoverer  was  t'nilv  convinced  that  the   nort  li-woti'i'ii 

rmili'  to  fndia^  now  hiy  o[)i'ii  to  the  mariners  of  Mn^land. 

It    was  the  be^■innin<4■  <»f  Aiij^'iist,  and   tin'  ilastardly  o-cw 

isidcriny  the  passage  ellec ted,  ur^'ed  an  immediate  I'cl  urn  ; 

t    liutlsoii    was  (h'teiMuined  on  <'om|)letin:^' the  advcntiire, 

iiinl   winti.'rin'^-,    if  possihje,   on    the   sunny    shores   of   India. 

Tni'   tlii'ee   nioiiths  he  contiiiue(l  tnickin'''  thi.^  south  coasts 

nf  that    vast   Jiorthei'u   mediterranean,  l^ut    all   liis   hopes   of 

tiiidin^'  a   new  (diaunel  openiu'^'  to  the   soutli    |irove(l    vain, 

initil  at  len^^'th  theshi|»  was  IVo/.en  in  on  X(.)Vendier  |0  in  the 

<niitli-e;ist  corm.'r  (tf  James's  J>ay.     A  di'eary  winlei'  awaited 

ill"   ice-l)ouud  seamen,    with    abnosf    exhausted   provisions, 

iiiHi  unfortunately  without  that  herui(.'  iMtience  and  concord 

wjii'li  had  stistaiuiMl   the  coui'a'''e  of  JJarent/   ami    his  coni- 


cul 


hll 


'Unions   un<ler  trials  far  mor( 


s<'Vere.      Ihit    sprmj^'  came 


at 


i> 


t    and   revived   tlie  s[iii'its   of  their  leaijer.       His  ship 


Wi 


i''i''  •  !iioi'(>  iilloat,  cMice  more  liis  fancy   in«hdued  in  visions  of 
^unny  east,  when  as  he  step[)ed  on  deck  ou  the  uiornino* 


till 


'f  June  21,  his  arms  wi-re  suddenly  jiinioned,  and  he  fmuid 
iiniself  iu  llio  power  (»f  three  of  his  men. 
liKluiry,   rem(»nstrauce,   entreaty,  counnand,  all    failed    to 
a  word  from  the  stubborn   mutiiu'ci's,  and  Hudson  re- 


li'.iw 
■'i'.fliei 


1  himself  bravely  to  his  fate,  aud  with  the  ([uiet  dii^'nit y 
"fa  nelth.'  nature,  looked  ou  calmly  at  tln^  ominous  prcpara- 
tiMiis  ^'oiic.j' forward.  A  small  open  boat  was  in  waiting',  ami 
iiitn  this   Hudson — his  hands   beinii'  ))reviously  tied    behind 


I':  I 


lis  iiack-  -was  lowered;  some  powder  and  shot,  and  tin 
vpcnter's  box  came  next,  followed  by  the  carpenter  him- 
It'.  .John  Kin<4',  -whose  luinic  oULi'ht  to  l)e  held  in  honourabh 

anion  1 


iviii";nhi'auee,  as  h(>  al 


( »n  0 


the  crew  remaiueil   true  to 


'■i;-=  iiiasfer.      Six   invalids  Avere  also  Ibrced  into  the    b 


Mill, 


^^iiii'li   was 


then  cut  adrift,  and  the  vessel  sailed  onwar<ls  ( 


>u 


iieinew.ird    coui's 


X..tl 


uu<''    more   Av 


as    ever   heard    of 


.190 


TIIK    I'OLAi;    WOKI.I). 


JEiid 


son 


liiif  (lie  riiiylciKlt'Vs  (»t'  that  dark  conspiracy  sortn 
paid  a  terrible  i»onalty.  Some  fell  in  a  M|4'lit  with  the  Msijiii- 
iiiiuix,  and  others  died  on  the  homeward  voyaL^e,  during-  which 
tliev  suffered  from  the  extremest  famine. 


The  account  of  the  Ln'eiit  expanse  of  sea  Avliich  had  Ix 


I'll 


reached  y-ave  new  viyour  to  the  spirit  of  discovery,  and  new- 
expeditions  sallied  forth   (Sir  Thomas  Button  1()J2,  (Jihljnns 
KM  t,  Bylot  ll)!-")),  to  seek  alonn*  the  western  shores  of  Hud- 
son's I3ay  the  passa^'e  whicli  was  to  open  the  way  to  Tndi;!. 
All  efforts  in  this  direction  were  of  course  doomed  to  disiip- 
pointment,  but  IJallin,  who  sailed  in   l(il(>,  with  directions 
to  try  his  fortune  beyond  Davis'  Straits,  enriched  Lj'eou-rapliy 
wdth  a    new  and  important  ciuirjuest,  by  sailin;^'  round  tlu' 
enormous    bay   which    still  bears    his   name.      During'    this 
voyaf>'e,  he  discovered  the  entrances  of  Smith's,  Jones',  and 
Lancaster  Sounds,  without  attempting-  to  investigate  these 
broad  highways  to  fields  of  later  exploration.     He  believed 
tlieni  to  be  mere  enclosed  gulfs,  and  this  belief  became  so 
tirmlv  u'rounded  in  tlie  public  mind,  that  two  full  centui-ies 
ehipsed   before   any  new  attempt   was   made  to  seek   fei'  ;i 
western  passage  in  this  direction,  while  Jens  Muidc,  a  Dane, 
sent  out  in  1019  with  two  good  vessels,  Tuider  the  patroiiai^v 
of  his    king,  C'hristian  TV.;   Fox   and  James   (l(>:)l-l(J;lil  . 
Knight    and   Barlow    (171U),  Middleton   (1711),  Moor  iind 
Smith  (1710),  conlined  their  eflbrts  to  Hudson's  Bay,  and. 
by  their  repeated  disappointments,  made  all  expeditions  in 
quest  of  a   north-western  passage  appear  well-nigh  as  clii- 
merieal  as  those  of  the  knif»'ht-errants  of  romance. 


The  Mu3qua;=; 


_____  ^^^S5v5^S?^^ 

Tho  Torso  Rock,  iir-ar  t'oi!;*.  Do.-ia  T:iO!np3on,  North  Coas^:  of  AjiiC-nca. 


CllAlTEli  XXX 11. 

ARCTIC    VOYAGES    OF    DISCOVERY,    FROM    BAEFIX    TO 

M'CLINTOCK. 


i^h.'ui  and  Fnmkliii — Koss  iiml  Parrv  (IslS) — I)i>covirv  of  Mflvillo  l^himl  — 


Willi  I 


Harl.our    (1819-182(1;    -Franklin's    Fir.-i    I.aii'l    Joiir 


ni's 


Dr.'adfiil 


i— I'ari-v" 


>cciin(. 


I    A 


ovas:c    (1821- ISl 


Jliirliiik"[.V(.ii    (1821)- 


■ai'rv 


Tliird  Voyagf  (1S21)— Frank 


HI 


d    Laud  Jon 


ri:i 


to    the   SI 


lores 


'I  I 


lir   J'lilar   Sea — Bcco'licy — I'arry'.s  Sli 


Jour 


ncv   towards    tlic  I'olr 


J'lhn  JJoss's  Second   Journey — I'ive  Years  in  the  Aretie  Oeean — IJaek's  Dis- 


ivirv    of   Great    Fisli    Kiver — J)t 


an( 


1    Simpson    (1837-l«;5i))— Franklii 


iiid   Crozier's  Last   Vovaj'o    (181'))— Searehinir    Ivxiuilitions  — Rieliardson    an 


I 


.-  Si 


Junies  l\oss 


Uistiii- 


V 


IV-  -  I)e   Haven —  l'"rank 


First  Winter 


tju.ii'lers  discovered  I'V  (_)ninniney — K'ennedy  and  Fx  Hot — In;i:litielil  —Sir  1'^. 
Ililrlier — Kellett — M'Clure's  Diveovery  of  the  Noi'l  li-\Vest  Passage — Collinson 
—  IMlot's  Death — Dr.  Kae  learns  tlie  Death  of  the  Crews  of  the  'Fh'Jius'  and 
'Terror' — Sir  Leopohl  31'C!intoek. 

^piIK  tkiluro  of  Captain  Pliipps  (afterwards  Lord  Miil;4Tavo) 
A-  ill  tho  Spitzboro-oii  seas  (177:>),  iiiid  that  of  the  ilhistrious 
Cuok  (177(5),  in  his  a-tt(,Miipt  to  circuiiinaviii'atc  tlic  iiorlhcrn 
sliorrs  of  Aiuorica  or  Asia  by  way  of  the  Straits  of  Hcliriiin-, 
eiitivoly  damped,  for  tlie  next  forty  years,  tlie  spirit  of  Arctic 
discovery  ;  but  hope  revived  wlieii  it  Ijecanie  known  tliat 
i'iiptahi  Seoresby,  on  a  Avhaliii^' expedith)n  in  tlie  Greenland 
seas  (180G),  had  attained  ST  :jO'  N.  hit.,  and  thus  approached 


mr 


,'ja-j 


Till:    rol.All    WORLD. 


tlio  Pole  to  williiii  •)  lO  Diilcs.  No  previous  nuvi^ator  hvA 
ever  readied  so  I'ar  t.»  the  iiortli ;  an  open  sea  lay  temptingly 
before  him,  and  th(^  a1)senee  of  tlie  ice-hlink  proved,  that  Inr 
miles  beyond  the  visible  hori/on  no  iee-lii'M  or  no  sn^w- 
covered  land  opposed  his  onward  course  ;  but  as  the  object 
of  Seoresby's  voyag-e  was  strictly  commercial,  iind  he  hinisilf 
answerable  to  tlie  owners  of  his  vessel,  he  felt  ol)li:4t'd  in 
saerifiee  his  ineliniitions  to  his  dutv,  and  to  steer  a^'ain  tn 
the  South. 

DuriuL;-  the  Continental  war,  indeed,  England  had  luit 
little  leisure  to  ])rosecute  discoveries  in  the  Arctic  Ocean: 
but  not  h)ni»-  after  the  conclusion  of  ])eace,  four  stout  vessels 
(181S)  were  sent  out  on  that  mission  by  doveninnuit.  Tw" 
of  these,  the  '  Dorothea,'  Captain  IJuchan,  and  the  'Trent." 
Commander  Lieutenant  John  Franldin,  were  destined  {•> 
proceed  noi'thwards  by  way  of  Spitzberg-en,  and  to  endeavour 
to  cross  the  Polar  .Sea.  After  uniunnbered  difficulties,  tiii' 
expedition  -was  batllino-  with  the  ice  to  the  north-west  df 
that  Avintry  archiptdaj^'o,  wluMi,  on  July  :>(>,  a  sudden  ;Li;il'' 
<'om])elled  til"  commander,  as  the  only  chance  of  safety,  tn 
'take  the  ice' — that  is,  to  thrust  the  ships  into  any  opt.'ii- 
ing"  anion^-  the  movin^-  masses  that  could  be  perceivcil. 
Tn  this  very  hazardous  operation,  the  'Dorothea' — haviiii;' 
received  so  much  injury  that  she  was  in  daniivr  of  sinkiiii;' 
— Avas  thereiore  turned  homewards  as  soon  as  the  storm  siilj- 
sided,  and  the  'Trent'  of  necessitv  accomiianied  her. 

The  other  two  ships  which  sailed  in  the  same  year,  the  '  ba- 
bella,'  commanded  by  Captain  John  lioss,  and  the  'AlexanJfi'. 
by  Lieutenant  AViiliam  Edward  Parry,  had  been  oriicivil 
to  proceed  u[)  the  middle  vi'  Davis'  Strait  to  a  hi^'h  nortluTii 
kititurle,  and  then  to  stretch  across  to  the  westward,  in  tli-' 
hope  of  bein;jc  able  to  pass  the  northern  extremity  of  Aiiurie;!. 
and  reach  Behrin^-'s  Strait  by  that  route.  As  respects  iIk' 
purposes  for  which  it  was  sent  out.  this  expedition  likrwisi' 
endiMl  in  disappointment;  for  thouo-h  Ross  didined  iii"iv 
»-|i;ar]y  tli(>  (Greenland  coast  to  the  north  of  the  L);mi>li 
])ossessions  between  Ca[»e  Melville  and  .Smith's  Souml.  1"' 
Avas  satisti(.'d  with  makiiiLi'  a  verv  cursorv  examiuatinii  of  all 
the  u'reat  cliannels  leadinu'  from   Batlin's  Lav  into  the  I'eliiv 


I'ARKV    IN    WINTKIJ    llAIUlOli;. 


.">!){ 


toinptiiiL:!}' 
rtnl,  that  I'nv 
)V  no  snnw- 
s  the  oh'yri 
d  lu>  liinisilf 
I  ()l)li;j,>'tl  to 
eer  u^'ahi  tn 

nvA  Ir.id  I'Ht 
rctic  Ocoiui; 
stout  VCSSi'K 
iintnit.     Tw" 
tlie  'Tiviit; 
dostiiuHl  1" 
to  t'lidoavoiir 
flienUies,  tln' 
lortk-wost  t'l 
,  smUlcii  ;i'iil'' 
>  of  safety,  tn 
to    any  oi"-''!- 
j^icveciveil. 
lioa'— li'.iviii^' 
"V  of  sinkhiL;' 
le  storm  snl'- 
a  her. 

ear,  the  •  Is^'- 
(>  'Alexaiul''!'. 
been  oriiei\''l 
I'lM-li  uortlH'i'i' 
^tward,  in  til' 
v  of  Aiiu'vica, 
rt^specls  til' 
tioii 
idt'liiii 
[•  the 

jfs  Souinl.  1"' 

liiiKitioii  ol'iill 

Ulo  the  r^l'i^' 


Se;!.  After  siiiliii;.'-  for  souk?  liitle  (listaiice  nj)  fiaucajiter 
Sdimd,  he  \Vi;s  arri'stcd  1)y  the  atiiiosjthcrii'  (lt_'ee[)liou  of  a 
viiiiLie  of  iiioiniiains,  extending"  ri<4'ht  aeross  the  passa^'e,  and 
roiK/hidinL;'  it  useless  to  ])i'rs('V(.'re,  lie  at  ouee — to  the  o-n-iit 
;i>iniiishui(Mit  uud  luortilicatiou  ol'  ]iis  oiiioers — ahau(U»ned 
;i  course  which  was  to  render  his  successor  ilhistrious.  As 
iii.iy  easily  he  iiuan'iueil.  the  uiauiu'r  in  whicli  lioss  had  cou- 
(hu  ti'd  tliis  expedition  failed  to  satisfy  tlie  authorities  at 
Inline;  and  thus,  in  the  foHowiny  year,  the  ''llfcla'  and 
•driper'  were  coiuuiissioued  for  the  purpos(^  ofexplorin;;'  the 
sound,  Avliose  entrance  only  had  been  seen  hy  llatliu  and 
Md.-s.  The  former  ship  was  placed  under  the  comiuaud  of 
Parry,  and  the   latter   under  that    of   Lieutenant  "Matthew 

hiililoU. 

With  this  brilliant  voya<i;e,  the  e}»och  of  modern  discovt'i-ics 

ill  tlie  Arctic  ( )cean  may  [)roperly  he  said  to  Ijcj-iii.      Sailinn' 

rlu'ht  throiMji'h  Lancaster  Sound,  over  the  site  (d'  J'oss's  ima- 

i^inary  (*roker  mountains.  Parry  passed  Barr(»w*s  Strait,  and 

lit'ti'r  ex[)lorin!4'  Prince  lieoent  Lidet,  wlience  the  i<-e  cnuipelled 

liim  to  return  to  the  main  channel,  he  discovered  Welliuo-ton 

Clianricl  (August  22),  and  soon  after  had  the  satisfaction  of 

iiininuucino'  to  his  men.  that,  having-  reached  llo""'  W.  louo-., 

ihcy  were  entitled  to  the  lviiiL;'"s  hoiinty  of -">,<•( td/.,  srciired  hy 

nnl'-r  (){■  coiuicil  to  'such  of  His  ^Fajesty's  subjects  as  niio-hf 

succeed  in  penetrating  thus  far  to  tlii'  west  with  in  the  Ar.  Wr. 

*'Ii'(,'ie.'     After  passing  and  naming'  ^lelville    Island,  a  little 

[irugress    was    still   nrade   westward  ;    l>ut    the    ice   was    iiow 

ni}iitl1y  gathering,    the   vessels   were  soon   liesct,  and,    altei- 

'irttingfreo  with  great  <litlicnlty.  Parry  was  only  ti'o  glad  to 

turn  l)uclc  and  settle  d(»\vn   in  Winter  Harbour.      it  was  no 

'■a>y  task  to  attain   this  dreary   prn't,  as  a   canal,  1\\i'   uii!(s 

aiiil  a  third  in  length,  had  fii'st  to  be  cut  tliroiiMh  s. 'lid  ice  of 

si'Vcu  iiudies  average  thickness;  yet    such  was  tlie  energy  of 

til"   men,  that  the   herculean    lahour  was  I'xecuted    in   three 

'lays.     The  tw(»vessels  v/ere  iniuie'liately  uurigu'd.  the  decks 

li'Mi^eil  over,   a  heating  apparatus  arraiigeij.  and  evcryt  liing 

iiiaije  as  comfortable  as  possihle.     To  relic/ve  the  nioiiotouv 

'■nii(.>  l(iug  winter's  night,  plays  were  acted  every  fortnight, 

a  School  established,  and  a  n('wspa[M'r  set  on  foot-  certainly 


.■J91 


•niE    I'OI.AR    WOUIJ). 


the  first  periodical  ever  issued  in  so  liiyli  a  latitiule.  Duriii'^' 
the  day,  the  men  were  eniploj^ed  for  exercise  in  bunking'  U]) 
the  ships  with  snow,  or  makin^^  excursions  within  a  certain 
distance ;  and  when  the  Aveat her  forbade  their  leaving;;'  sheUcr, 
tliey  were  obliged  to  run  round  the  decks  to  the  tune  of  a 
barrel -oro-an. 

In  January  the  cold  became  more  and  more  intense.  On 
the  12th  it  was  51°  below  zero  in  the  open  air,  and  on  the 
14th,  the  thermometer  fell  to  51°.  On  February  21,  a  tiro 
broke  out  in  a  small  house  which  had  been  built  near  tlic 
ships,  to  serve  as  an  observatory  for  Captain  Sabine,  who  ac- 
companied the  expedition  as  astronomer.  All  hands  ruslif(I 
to  the  spot  to  endeavour  to  subdue  the  flames,  but  having;' 
only  snow  to  throw  on  it,  it  was  found  impossible  to  extin- 
o-uisli  it.  The  snow,  however,  covered  the  astronomical  in- 
striunents,  and  secured  them  from  the  fire.  The  thermomotov 
Avas  at  the  time  41°  below  zero,  and  the  faces  of  nearly  the 
whole  party  o-rew  white  and  frost-bitten  after  five  minutes' 
exposure,  so  that  the  sur^-eon  and  two  or  three  assistants 
were  busily  emjdoyed  in  rubbing-  the  faces  of  their  comrades 
with  snow,  whilt.'  the  latter  were  working'  might  and  main 
to  exting-uish  the  flames.  One  poor  fellow,  in  his  anxiety 
to  save  the  dipping-  needle,  carried  it  out  without  pnttiny- 
on  his  g-loves ;  his  hands  were  so  benum" 'd  in  consequence, 
that  when  plung-ed  into  a  basin  of  cold  water,  it  instantly 
froze,  from  the  intense  cf)ldness  imparted  to  it,  and  it  was 
found  necessary  to  resort,  some  time  after,  to  the  ani2)nta- 
tion  of  a  part  of  four  lingers  on  one  hand  and  three  on  the 
other. 

February  3  was  a  memora])le  day — the  sun  being-  visil)le 
from  the  maintop  of  the  '  Hecla,'  from  whence  it  was  last 
seen  on  November  1 1.  The  weather  got  considerably  mildtn- 
in  March  ;  on  the  Gtli  the  thermometer  rose  to  zero,  for  tlio 
first  time  since  December  17;  and  on  April  oO  it  stood 
at  the  freezing-  point,  which  it  had  not  done  since  Septem- 
ber 12. 

At  leng-th  INIay  appeared,  bringing  the  long  summer's 
day  of  the  high  northern  latitudes ;  l)ut  as  many  a  week 
must  still  pass  before  the  vessels  could  move  out  of  their 
ice-bound  harbour,  Parry  started  on  June  1  to  explore  the 


i:\im:i)iti().v>;  of  fuankijn  and  liicirARDi^ox, 


.^{i5 


I  a  covtain 
ing  slu'ltcr, 
3  tune  of  a 

itense.  On 
{iu("l  on  the 
y  2-1,  a,  fu'p 
lit  near  tlic 

inc, w^^"  '"' 
.ands  ruslif<l 

,  but  haviiii;' 

)le  to  extin- 

ononiical  iii- 

tliernionicter 

of  nearly  the 

five  minutes' 

•oe  assistants 

leir  comrades 

lit  and  main 

liis  anxiety 

lOut  putting- 

consequence, 

it  instantly 

,  and  it  avus 

tlie  ampnta- 

tliree  on  tlu' 

beino-  visilAe 
?e  it  was  last 
erably  milder 
zero,  lor  the 
1  :10  it  stood 
ince  Septeni- 

luo-    summer's 

^uany  a  week 

out  of  thrlv 

,»  explore  th«' 


interior  of  the  island,  Avliiidi  at  tins  early  period  of  the 
siiisMii  still  ^vore  a  veiy  dreary  aspect.  But  such  was  the 
i;i]ii(lity  of  vegetation,  that  by  the  end  of  the  month  the 
!;iiid,  now  completely  clear  of  snow,  was  covered  with  the 
j.iirple-coloured  saxifra;^n>  in  blossom,  with  mosses,  and  with 
sdvrtd,  and  the  grass  was  fn)m  two  to  throe  inches  long, 
'llic  pasturage  appeared  to  be  excellent  in  the  valleys,  and, 
to  judge  by  the  numerous  tracks  of  musk-oxen  and  reindeer, 
tlitiH'  was  no  lack  of  animals  to  enjoy  its  abundance. 

It  was  not  before  August  1  that  tlu^  ships  were  released 
\'yn\n  their  ten  months'  bh^ckade  in  Winter  Harbour,  when 
I'arrv  once  more  stood  boldlv  for  tho  west ;  but  no  amount 
(if  skill  or  patience  could  penetrate  the  obstinate  masses  of 
ill'  that  blocked  the  passag'o,  or  insure  the  sai'ety  of  the 
vt'sstds  under  the  repeated  shocks  sustained  from  them. 
Finding  the  barriers  insui)erable,  he  gave  way,  and  steer- 
iiit;'  homeward,  reached  London  ou  November  ;>,  1S20, 
wlicre,  as  may  well  be  innigiricd,  his  reception  was  most 
I'litliusiastic. 

^\'hile  Pany  -was  engag<:'d  on  this  wonderful  voyage.  Lieu- 
tenant Franklin  and  Dr.  Richardson,  accompanied  by  two 
inidshi])men,  George  Back  and  Robert  Hood,  and  a  sailor 
.inlm  Hepburn,  to  whom  were  added  during  the  course  of  the 
jiiuniey  a  troop  of  Canadians  and  Indians,  were  penetrating 
hy  land  to  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine  River,  for  the  pur- 
jii'se  of  examining  the  unexplored  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea,  to 
tho  east.  An  idea  of  the  difficulties  of  this  undertaking  imiy 
lie  formed,  wlien  I  mention  that  the  travellers  started  from 
Fort  York,  Hudson's  Bay,  on  August  oO,  1819,  and  after  a 
lioiit  voyage  of  700  miles  up  the  Saskatchewan  arrived  before 
winter  at  Fort  Cumberland.  The  next  winter  found  them 
"""  miles  further  on  their  journey,  estaldishcd  during  the 
'XUvine  cold  at  Fort  Enterprise,  as  they  called  a  log-house 
liuilt  hy  them  on  Winter  Lake,  whore  they  spent  ton  months, 
'I'l'iiiding  upon  fishing  and  the  success  of  their  Indian 
liuiitiis.  During  the  sumnu'r  of  1821  they  accom[>lished 
>1h'  remaining  'VM  miles  to  the  mouth  cd'  the  Coppermine, 
:iiid  on  July  21,  Fraidvlin  and  his  party  end)arked  in  two 
I'iii  li-biirk  canoes  on  their  voyage  <d'  exploration.  In  these 
"iiil  sjnillops  they  skirted  the  desolate  coast  «d' the  American 


OOG 


Till-:    rol.Alf    WORLD. 


ooniiiifiil  •")."").■■)  miles  io  tlie  oast  of  the  (Joiii>orinliio  ns  fiii-  iis 
Point  Tiii'iiii^'ain,  avIicu  ilu;  nipid  deeroiLse  of  tlicir  inovisions 
aii<l  the  sliatterc'd  sttiti'  of  the  canoes  imperatively  eomiicjlcd 
their  return  (/Viii'-nst  '22).  And  now  be^^iin  a  drea<lful  iiiinl- 
Joiiniey  of  two  months,  aceonipanied  hy  iill  tlie  hori'ois  of 
cold,  lamine,  iind  fatigue.  An  esculent  lichen  (tripe  t\r 
rociiel,  wilh  :iu  occiisiouiil  pt;irniie-iin.  formed  their  scuiitv 
food,  l)nt  on  very  many  days  even  this  poor  sujiply  conld  iii.f 
l)e  ohtained,  and  iheir  appetites  Ix'canie  ravenous.  Sdini.- 
tbnes  they  had  the  e>ood  fortune  to  pick  up  pieces  of  skin. 
and  a,  few  Ijones  of  deer  which   had   heeu   devoured   liv  {]]<■ 


wolves    lii 


ih 


]>revious   s[»rjn< 


The   bones  were  riMidcifd 


triable  by  burning-,  and  now  and  Uivn  their  old  slioes  \V( 
added  to  the  re[)ast.     On  r(,'achinn"  the'  C*oppermine,  ti  rait  li; 
to  be  fi-amed,  a  taslc  acconi[»)ished  with  the  utmost  diilici 


illv 


by  the  t>xhausted  party.  (.)ne'  or  iuH)  of  the  Canadians  Iniil 
ah-eady  fallen  behind  and  never  rejoined  their  comrades,  aii.l 
now  llood  and  three  or  four  more  of  the  party  broke  dnwii 
id  could  ])roceed  no  farther.  Dr.  Jlichardson   kindly  voliiii- 


:u 


teerin^'  to   remain   with   them,  while   Back,  with  the  ) 


iiii> 


vi^'orous  of  the  men,  pii 


di».'d  on  to  send  succour  from   I'eit 


Enterprise,  and  Franklin  followed  more  slowly  wilh  the  others. 
On  reacliinn'  the  lo^'-house  this  hist  party  found  that  wretched 
teneniemt  <.lesolat(\  with  no  de[)Osit  tjf  provisions  and  no  truce 
of  the  Indians  whom  tliey  had  ox]K'cted  to  meet  there.  '  It 
would  be  impossible/  says  Franklin,  '■  to  describe  our  seiisa- 
tions  after  entering- this  miserable  abode  and  discover  in  u'  liuw 
Ave  had  been  nep^lected  ;  the  whole  ]>nrty  shed  tears,  net  >^u 
much  for  our  oAvn  fate  as  for  that  of  (.)ur  friends  in  tlie  rciH'. 
whose  lives  dejiended  t'utirely  on  our  sendin;^'  immediate  ri'lit  f 
from  this  ])lace, 


Th 


leir  onlv   conso 


Lit 


ion   was   a   t»lea 


111  I'l 


hope  alforded  them  f)y  a  not<'  from  Back,  statine-  that  he  liiil 
reached  the  deserted  hut  two  days  before,  ami  was  jn'oinu'  in 
search  of  the  Indians,  The  fortunate  discovery  of  sunt' 
east-otf  deer-skins,  and  of  a  heap  of  acrid  liones,  a  provi^ien 
worthy  of  the  plate,  sustaiiunl  their  tlickerin^'  life-llaiiie. 
and  alter  eiLihte^'u  miserable  days  tln^y  wore  jctined  by  Dr. 
Jtichardson  and  IIe]>burn.  the  sole  survivors  of  their  j  avtv. 
Lieutenant  Hood,  a  youn<j;'  olticer  of  ^'ivat  promise,  haviai:' 
been  murdere(l  bv  a  treaclieroii-;  Canadian,  whrun  b'irharil-".'! 


I'AKIIV  S    SKI OM)    VOKVt.i:. 


\o  lis  tar  ;i> 
r  pvovisiniis 

nulful  laml- 

>    llolTol'S    (il 

:lieir  sciiuty 
ly  could  in'l 

.e<>s  of  skin. 
lUred  I'.v  t!i" 
ere  vi'ii'lfVi'il 

iKStivaft  h;!<l 
lost  (li1]i<'u]ty 
auadiaus  had 
omrades.  au^l 
y  brolvt'  'lowii 
Uindly  voliin- 

.itll    lllO    l»('>t 

»ui-  from  Tuvt 
iilitlio  others, 
that  wretched, 
saml  no  trai'O 
et  there.     'It 
lib('  our  t-u'iisa- 
seoveriuii"  how 
1  tears.  ii"t  ^" 
Is  iu  Hie  vnw. 
nuediat.<>r.'Ui  t 
s   a   o-leaiu  nf 
,o- that  h.'lui'l 
wai?  -■(.in--  ill 
vory   <»f  ^■'""' 
jos,  !i  provl^i"'.' 
^no-   life-llaiiie. 

joined  l>y  iH'. 

)f  their  vavty, 

loiuise,  havia'i 

1,111  TJirhara-oi! 


w  a  >  a 


(Verwards  ohlio-cd  t,,  slioot  throuLih  the  head   in   s.'lf- 


(l.'ti'lU'O 


•  rpoii  cntcriiiLi"  the   di'solato  dwi'liiii^','   says  Jviciiartlsou. 
\\r  had  tlie  satist'aetiou  of  cinhraciuo"  ('ii[»taiu  Franklin,  hui 


||M   wo 


ids  can   convev  iui   i(h>a  of  the   tilth  and  wrrtcliiMli 


It 'SS 


ihat  iiM't  our  eyes  OH  lookino-  around.  Our  ouu  mis -ry  had 
>t<.|''n  upon  us  hy  dc^'reos,  and  we  wt'vv  aecustonuMl  to  tho 
(■(.iilem[tlallon  oC  <Mrh  other's  oinaciated  tio-urcs;  hut  Ih^ 
L;hastly  counteuaiu'os,  dilated  eyehalls.  and  st'|tulcdiral  v< 


)UH'S 


bantam  iraulcliii  and  those  w 


vith  1 


dm,  M'crc  more  t  lian   we 


nil 


iM  at  lii'st  hear.'     At  lem,dh,  on   XctM-mhcr 


wiu'U  nil 


|>'\V 


m'vi\'ors  of  the  ill-fated  expedition  d<>i"  most  et  tiie 
vn\a'4er8  dietl  from  slu'ev  oxhaustioii)  were  on  the  point  of 
>inkin<_i-  under  their  sutl'evino-s,  three   Indians  sent  hv  T 


»ae 


^viil'Sl 


plMI:- 


exertions  to  proeure  tliem  relief  had  heen  Iteyoml  all 


hroU"'' 


ht   ihem   the   succour  thev   liad 


so    loll''"    l»een 


wailiiiLt'  foi".  Tlie  ea<j-erness  with  which  thev  feasted  on  dried 
meat  and  excellent  tont^aies  may  well  Ite  ima.'_;ined  :  lai)  severer 
pains  in  the  stomach  .soon  warned  ihem  that  attca"  so  Ioum-  jm 
;ih>tinenco  they  uiust  bo  exce<-'din<.;-ly  careful  in  the  ([Uantity 
lit'  lood  tals'en.     In  a   Ibi-tniu'lit's  lime  thev  hadi   sidlicientlv 


ivrl 


uited  their  streu^'th  to  be  able  to  join    |>aek   ai    ^loo 


Divr    Island,   and   in   the    Iblhuvini;"   \e.ir   thev    returned   to 


■land. 


irrv  s  second  vovau'c  ot  Oiscovt 


f  di 


'rv   (I^-Ji-b^L': 


);  was   un- 


'lii'laken  for  the  purpose  of  aseertaiuiu<4'  Avhethera  coiiimiuii- 
'iitleii  udi^ht:  lie  found  Vu'tween  Ive^'ent's  Inlet  and  Itowe's 
W'l'lcnnie,  or  throuo-li  lte[inls«'    Hay  and  thence   to  the  iioith- 


\vc>t"rii  slnu'es  { 


f  A 


mevica. 


'I'he   iirst  summer  ils:!!',  w, 


H'lit  in  the  vain  attcjupt   of  Ibrcin::'  a   way  throUL;h  l'r«>zeii 
liait,  Itcpulse  Bay,  the   lai\L 


masses  ol    u-e   iii  t  Ih 


uat.'i's 


IfMiiiL^' the  ships  helplessly  in  tla'ir  Liras)),  a  iid  otlen  (.arry  iiii; 
ili'-ia  liaidc  in  a  few  d;!vs  (o  the  vi'rv  spot  uliiidi  tli"v  had 
let',  a  month  before.  ()\vinL;-  to  these  relaitfs.  the  .-eiison 
caiiie  to  an  cud  while  their  eiilei'pi'ise  was  y-cl  scarcejv 
'•''L;im,  and  the  shii)^  took  u[>  their  <piai'ti'rs  in  uii  open  I'oail- 
>icad  at  Winter  Island  to  the  south  of  Mehille  i'enin.^ula. 
i)i>i(les  the  winter  amusements  and  Oi-ciipations  (I'  ilie  tii-st 
\e\aM'(>,  the  nuvnotony  (tf  the  winter  was  pleasaiiily  lir'.ken 
'luriii'j,'  Fid)ruarv  bv  friv'uillv  visits  from  a  iKii'Sof  I'lsiinimaux. 


.'198 


Till':    POI..\l{    WOIlM». 


Ainoiio'  Hh'S"  ii  vouiiu-  w<»iiiim  l!i<i'liiik  (lisiin<;-ni,slir<l  li<'isri(' 
by  Ikt  iiilciils.  llor  love  i'or  music  iiiiioiiiit(.'d  to  a  piissioii, 
aiul  her  (luickiioss  of  eoinpri'lieiisioii  was  sueli  that  slie  souii 
became  an  established  interpretei*  between  her  own  ]»tM>|i|, 
and  the  English.  The  natm'e  of  a  map  haviii;^  beiMi  ex- 
plained to  her,  she  readily  sketched  with  chalk  upon  lli,' 
dock  the  outlines  of  the  adjoining*  coast,  and  continuiiiL:'  it 
farther,  delineated  the  whole  eastern  shore  of  Melville  JViiiii- 
sula,  roundin*^"  its  northern  extremity  l^y  a  lar^'e  island  iind 
;i  strait  of  snlKcient  maf^nitude  to  afford  a  safe  i)assai4e  t'ni' 
the  shii)S.  This  infonnation  fjfreatly  encouraj^a'd  the  wlmlc 
pai'ty,  whose  san^'uine  anticipations  already  fancied  the  worsl 
part  of  their  voya^^'e  overcome,  and  its  truth  was  eagerly 
tested  as  soon  as  the  ships  could  once  more  be  set  atluiil, 
which  was  not  till  Julv  2. 

After  runniug"  the  greatest  dangers  from  the  ice,  they  ;it 
length  reached  the  small  island  of  Igloolik  near  the  entraiue 
of  the  channel,  the  situation  of  which  had  been  accurately 
laid  down  by  the  Esquimaux  woman.  But  all  their  elfurts 
to  force  a  passage  through  the  narrow  strait  proved  vain,  I'ni' 
after  struggling  sixty-five  days  to  get  forward,  they  had  only 
in  that  time  reached  forty  miles  to  the  westward  of  Tgloi>Hk. 
The  vessels  were  therefore  again  placed  in  winter-quavii^'is 
in  a  channel  between  Igloolik  and  the  land ;  but  having  as- 
certain(^d  by  boat  excursions  the  termination  of  the  strait, 
Parry  thought  it  so  promising  for  the  ensuing  summer,  tluit 
he  at  once  named  it  the  '  Hecla  and  Fury  Strait.'  But 
his  hopes  Avere  once  more  doomed  to  disappointment 
by  the  ice-obstructed  channel,  and  he  found  it  utterly  im- 
possible to  pass  through  it  with  his  ships.  His  return  to 
England  with  his  crews  in  health,  after  two  winters  in  tlu' 
high  latitudes,  Avas  another  triumph  of  judgment  ami 
discijdine. 

In  the  following  year  two  new  expeditions  set  sail  t'er 
Polar  America.  Captain  Lyon  was  sent  out  in  the  '(Iripi'i",' 
with  orders  to  laud  at  Wager  River  off  liepulse  r>iiv. 
and  thence  to  cross  Melville  Peninsida,  and  proceed  over- 
land to  Point  Turnagain,  where  Franklin's  journey  ende'd. 
But  a  succession  of  dreadful  storms  so  crippled  tlu' 
'  CJriper,'  while  endeavouring  to  proceed  onward  up  Iio\ve> 


IICTLUX   OF   TIIH   '  HI' (LA      To    KXCiLAXO. 


;5i)0 


lied   I'.cvsi'if 
>  a  [)iissinii, 
at  slio  SI  Hill 
own  i>t'<i]il 
<>•  boon  tx- 
k  upon  1lic 
i>iithiuini;'  it 
villc  IVnin- 
;   islaiitl  iiinl 
passaii't'  t'nr 
d  the  wlioli' 
LOcl  tilt'  \\i  <v>\ 
WiXii   caLivrly 
le  set  atloat. 

)  ice,  they  ut 
the  entraiui' 
['11  aceiiratcly 
their  elVovls 
oved  vain,  t'"i' 
they  had  <'iily 
d  ol'  T^-k>tililv. 
iiter-qnarl  .vs 

it  haviuLi"  'i^- 
of  tlie  strait, 
Isuininer.  that 
Strait.'     But 
appoiutiuiut 
t  utterly  im- 
lis  return  tt» 
riuters  in  tlu' 
dtjfnieut    'lu*! 

set  sail  t'nr 
the  '(!rip*"iV 
tiepulse  l'''}- 
Lroceed  over- 
[urney  ended, 
leripph'*!  thi' 
fd  up  Kowc  > 


Wrleome,  that   it  became   necessary  to  return  at  once   to 
lliiu'Iiind. 

Siieli  was  the  esteem  and  atfeetiou  I'arry  had  acquired 
ainniit^'  the  companions  of  his  two  former  voyaij'es,  tlnit  when 
111-  took  the  conniiaiid  of  a  third  ex[»edition,  with  the  inten- 
tion of  seeking  a  passa^v  tlirouyli  I'rince  JJe^'ent's  Tnk't,  tliey 
all  v(»hinteered  to  accompany  him.  From  the  mid(Ue  of  July 
till  nearly  the  middh>  of  September  (1821),  tlie  *  llecla  '  and 
llie  '  Fury'  laid  to  eontend  with  the  enormous  ice  masses  (»f 
i!atlin*s  liay,  which  would  infallibly  have  crushed  vessels  less 
stoutly  ribbed;  and  thus  it  was  not  bt'fore  Seplcmbrv  |0 
that  they  enti'red  Lancaster  Sound,  which  they  found  clear 
of  ice,  except  hero  and  there  a  solitary  beri^-.  But  new  iee 
now  beo-aii  to  form,  which,  increasing'  daily  in  thickness, 
hcsct  the  ship,  and  carried  them  once  more  back  ao-aiu  into 
iJatlin's  Bay.  By  perseverance,  however,  and  the  aitl  t»f  a. 
strong-  easterly  bree/e,  Parry  re^'ained  the  lost  ground,  and 
(•u  September  27  reached  the  entrance  of  Port  Bowen,  on  the 
eastern  shore  of  Prince  Ilef;-ent  Inlet,  where  he  passed  the 
winter.  By  July  P.),  the  vessels  were  again  free,  and  Parry 
now  sailed  across  the  inlet,  to  examine  the  coast  of  North 
Somerset;  but  the  floating  ice  so  injured  the  '  Fury,'  that  it 
was  found  necessary  to  abandon  her.  Her  crew  and  valu- 
ahlcs  were  therefore  received  on  board  the  '  Ilecla  ;  '  the 
l>i'ovi;uons,  stores,  and  boats  were  landed,  and  safely  housed 
nil  Fury  Point,  otf  North  Somerset,  i'ov  the  relief  of  any 
wandering-  Esquimaux,  or  future  Arctic  explorers  who  might 
rliaiice  to  visit  the  spot,  and  the  crippled  shij)  was  given  up 
to  the  mercy  of  the  relentless  ice,  Avhile  her  companion  made 
the  best  of  her  way  to  England. 

In  spite  of  the  dreadful  sufferings  of  Franklin,  Pichardsoii, 
and  Back  during  their  first  land  journey,  we  liud  these  heroes 
niice  more  setting  forth  in  1S2-"),  determined  to  resume  the 
survey  of  the  Arctic  coasts  of  the  American  continent.  A 
tar  iimre  adequate  preparation  was  made  for  the  necessities 
"f  their  journey  than  before,  and  bef(n-e  they  settled  down 
fni' the  winter  at'  Fort  Franklin,'  on  the  Shores  of  Great  Bear 
hake,  a  journey  of  investigation  down  the  Mackenzie  lliver 
f"  tlii^  sea  had  been  brought  to  a  successful  end.  As  soiai 
'!>  the  ice  broke  in  the  following  summer,  they  set  out  in 


•Ut) 


iiii;  I'oi.Au  \\<>in.i>. 


i  I 


loiu'  IxMts,  iiixl  si'paiMlt'il  iit  ilic  poiiil  \vli» to  flu.' river  dividis 
into  two  uiiiiii  liriiuclii'-!.  Fraiilclin  iiml  I»ac!c  i>r<»|)(>.siiii4'  t.» 
siirvcv  llif  t'oasl-liiic  ((»  tlic  wcstwiird,  wliil'  JJieliardson  si  t 
niii  ill  ail  casierly  dircrtion  to  tli<>  imiulli  of  llif  ('(ijipfriniM" 
itivcr.     Franklin   arrivrd    at   tlic   ni(»iilli    of  lli 


.Mi 


IcKciizh 


on  Jnly   7.   wiici-c  a    lar^'c  trilx'  of   l''s(ininiaiix  piilai^ctl   1 
Jmais.  and   ii    was  <tnl_v  liy  ;4'r('at  jtrndriicc  and   forbear 


ii> 


nil 


\\;i> 


that  tite  wlndo  party  wci't'  n(»t  masHacrcd.     A  full  iiKnilli 
iictw  Kjtoni  in  the  tedious  survey  of  o7  1  miles  of  coast,  as  I'm' 


as 


Ret 


urn 


lieef,  more  than  1.0(10   miles  distant   IVoni    tl 


ii'ir 


Tl 


le  fet  urn  |ourin'\ 


Avinter-qnarters  on  (Ireat  liear  Lake 

Fort  Frankliu  was  sal'elv  aeeomidislied.  and   lliev  arrived 


He 


Uii' 


IMIll 


their  house  on  Septendji'r  lil,  where  they  had  the  jiieasi 
lindin^"  Dr.  Iti*  hardsou  and  Lieutenant  Kendall,  wh(».  on  1 
]>art,  had  reaehed  the  ( 'o[)itermiiie.  thus  eouneetin;^'  tSir  .1 
Franklin's  former  discoveries  i-j  the  eastward  in  t'oronatiu!i 
<»nlf  with  thos<>  nunh'  ity  him  on  this  oeeasi<iii  to  the  wrsi- 
Avard  of  the  Mackenzie.  The  eohl  during*  the  second  wiiiti  r 
at  Fort  Franklin  was  intense,  the  thernionieter  standiiii;' ;i! 
one  time  at  oH"^  below  zero;  hut  the  comfort  they  now  enjovril 
formed  a  most  pleasiuL,''  contrast  to  the  sijualid  misery  ni 
.L'\irt  Enterpri 


se. 


When  Franklin  left  Eni^land  to  ])roceed  on  this  exj 


ICtll- 


lion,  liis  first  wife  was  then  lyiujj,-  at  the  |M)int  of  death,  aii'l 
indeed  expired  the  day  atter  his  de])artnre.     But  with  1 


li'lMii' 


fortitude  slie  nr-re*!  him  to  art  out  on  tiie  v 


ei'v  (lay  a]ipo! 


lit. Ml 


CMitreatin^-  him,  as  ho  vahied  her  peace  and  his  own   <j: 


(ll'V. 


Hi 


d 


IS  teelma'S  iiniv 


jiot  to  delay  a  moment  on  her  account, 
ho  innif^'ined,  wd)en.  he  raised  on  (larry  Island  a  silk  llnu' 
• — which  she  had  made  aiid  ydven  him  as  a  partinLr.U'ift.  with 
the  instruction  that  he  was  onlv  to  hoist  it  on  reachiiiL;-  tin- 


Pcdar  S 


ea. 


While  Parry  and  Franklin  Avere  th 


us  severally  enipit 


I  l\\'U 


in  searching"  for  a.  western  ))assa^*e,  a  sea  expedition,  umlrr 
the  command  of  Captain  Beechey,  had  been  sentto  Behrinu'- 
Straits,  to  co-operate  with  them,  so  as  to  furnish  provi>i"ii> 
to  the  former  and  a  conveyance  home  to  the  hitter — a  task 
niore  easily  planned  than  executed  ;  and  thus  we  caiim't 
wonder,  that  when  the  "  Blossoni  '  reached  the  appoiutoil 
jdace  of  rendezvous  at  Chamisso  Island,  in  Kotzebue   SoiiinI 


I'AUKV    <i.N    TlIK    ](IMI1;L1). 


401 


ivt'V  diviili  > 

MlUrklMl/.M' 

II  inoiilli  was 
(•■lasl,  ii^  l';it' 
t  IVoin  lli'ii' 
rii  jouru»'v  In 

,.V   MVvivf'l    ill 

ir  pU'iisinv  "t 
\vliu.  oil  '1"'''' 

in  Covoiiiili*'!! 
11  to  \W  ^\■•'>''- 
si'coutl  wint'V 
i.v  siaiulinu'  ii'< 
■  v  noNV  t'lij-ivi'l 
lid   Dust.'vy  of 

this  ('Xi»''Vi- 
,r  diNitl'.  iiii'l 
,nl  \vitli  U''i'"i'' 
|<iay  •aiiiH'i"t'''l. 

u  i\HdinLi-s  iii'''y 
Ind  a  silk  tl:'.;' 

■tiller  ti'it'*"-  ^''■''^'' 
lu  ivai'liiii^^- 11"' 


ivally  cini>l"yc'i 

■ditiou,  uii'l"' 

uttoBcdivin--"^ 

latter--:'  1''^^^ 
lius  ^ve  f'li'""'^ 
lllio    app"!"'^''^ 

,,t/ebiie   Souu.l 


I'Julv  2'>,  lS2<i),  slu'  l\»uiid  iicitlifi'  I'arrv  (who  luid  Idiiii' sliico 
rrtMnii'd  lo  Eiiu;-lan<I)  iioi-  I'^rankliii.  ^^'ttln'  liar^;'*'  ol"  Die 
•|;!nss()in' — -wliicli  was  dospatclicd  In  ilic  eastward  under 
cliiirut'  (;t'  Mr.  Elson — narrowly  missed  iiieetiim'  llie  laliei-; 
\\>v  wlieii  she  w;is  stopped  In'  (he  ice  at  I'idiit  Darrt'W,  she 
\\;is  (udv  al^unt  loO  miles  from  lietiini  Reel'  the  li'iiit  of  liis 


(  '.^ 


■nveries 


toll 


le  westward  of  the  Maekeii/.ii 


III  the  year  )S27,  the  iudetatin'abie  J'arry  uiiderdml^  one 
(if  til''  most  extraordinary  voyau'es  ever  perlbrmed  l>y  man  ; 
iM'iiiu'  no  less  than  an  attempt  to  reaidi  the  North  Pole  l>y 
lii'.il  an<l  sledi^'c  traA'elline'  over  theici'.  His  ho[ies  ot'  success 
wcie  lonixkHl  on  Scoresby's  authority,  •who  re[)orts  havini^' 
sri  a  ico-fields  so  tree  I'rom  (.'ither  iissure  or  huniniocl:,  that, 
111  1  tliey  not  bei-n  covered  with  snow,  a  coach  miLi'ht  have 
1.1"  ii  dri\en  manv  lea'«'nes  over  tliem  in  a,  direct  line;  but 
when  i^irry  readied  the  ice-iields  to  tlie  iioi'ih  ^>i.'  .Spifzljer;4'en, 
he  luuiid  them  of*  a  vei'v  ditt'erent  nature,  composed  of  loo^c, 
iuo'm'imI    masses,    intermixed    with    po<ds    of    water,    -svhich 


I'l'i 


idered  travelliuL!;  over  them  extremelv  arduous  and  slo 


w 


I'V 


The  strong"  llat-bottomed  boats,  s[iecially  prepared  for  an 
;i!iijiliil)ions  iournev,  with  a  runner  atlache(l  to  each  side  <d' 
lilt'  keel,  so  as  to  adapt  them  for  sled^'in'^',  had  thus  iVe- 
i;U' iiily  to  be  laden  and  indaden,  in  i-rtha-  to  lie  raised  over 
ihf  liiimmoeks,  and  repeated  journeys  backward  and  forward 
■r  the  same  Li'iMiund  AVere  the  necessary  conse(]uence. 
iTi'quently  the  crew  had  to  go  on  hands  and  knees  to  secure 
a  lodling'.  Heavy  sliowers  of  rain  often  rendered  tlu'  surface 
"f  tlie  ice  a  mass  of  slush,  and  in  s(ane  places  the  ice  took 
1 1ll' form  of  sharp-pointed  crystals,  which  cut  the  boots  like 
ponkiiives.  But  in  spite  of  all  these  obstacles,  they  toiled 
'lii'crfiilly  on,  until  at  lenn'th.  alter  thirtv-live  davs  of  inces- 


•;iii 


t  <lrudi'-erv,  the    discovery 


was 


ma(h'.    that     Avliile    they 


^"'le  ap[iarently  advancing'  t(!wards  the  jiole,  the  ice-field  on 
^vliiili  they  were  travellin.;'  was  drifting-  to  the  south,  and 
t'nus  rendering-  all  their  exertions  fruitless.  Yet,  though 
ilisappointed.  in  his  liope  of  planting  his  country's  standard 
"11  the  northern  axis  of  the  globe,  Parry  had  the  glory  of 
ivaeiiing  tin,'  highest  authenticated  latitude  ever  yet  attained 
^2'  10'  :)<»'').  On  their  return  to  the  '  Hecla,'  which  awaited 
lii'iii.  under  Captain   Forster.   in   Trenrenberg  Bay,  on   the 

I)  u 


402 


TIIK    I'ol.AK    UOIil-l). 


iiortlicrii  roMst  of  Si>ll/l)OT^'on,  Uw  Ixuits  ciK'onntoivd  n 
(liY'iidl'iil  storm  oil  tin.'  opi'ii  sea,  wliicli  ohlii^-cd  ilicm  t<»  Ijimi' 
uj>  I'oi'  W;iM(Mi  Fsliiiitl— one  of  tli(>  most  iioitlu'rly  rm  k, 
of  the  tircIiiiM'Iii^o  -  wliorc,  I'oi'luiiiitcly,  u  rcscrvi?  Hii{>itly  it 
Iti'ovisions  liiid  been  (l('[)osittMl.  '  MviM'ytliiii;^'  lj<'loiiM-ii|n-  i,, 
us,"  siiys  Sii'  Eihvanl  Parry,  '  w.is  now  (•oiii[)lL'tt'ly  drciiclii'.; 
by  the  spray  and  snow;  we  hail  lu'en  lifty-six  hoius  willion: 
rest,  and  forty-ciyht  at  work  in  tlio  boats,  so  lliat  l>y  th" 
time  iht'v  were  unloaded,  Ave  had  baridv  strcn-'th  to  ]i;r;l 
thcni  lip  on  the  rocdcs.  However,  by  dint  of  great  exertiuii, 
we  luanay'ed  to  i^-ct  the  boats  al)ove  the  surf,  after  whidi.  n 
hot  su[)per,  a,  l)l.i/inn'  llrt?  of  drifl-W(»od,  and  a  few  hnur«' 
quiet  rest,  restored  us."  He  who  laments  over  the  deuvu'- 
raoy  of  the  human  race,  an<l  su[iposes  it  to  have  been  iikut 
vi!.;'oroiis  or  endowed  with  "greater  powers  of  endurance  in 
ancient  times,  may])erha[)s  come  to  a  dillerent  opinion  \\ii.:i 
reading'  of  Parry  and  his  companions. 

Thus  ended  the  last  of  this  ^-reat  navip,-'itor's  Arctic  voya^v-, 
B<tru  in  tli"  year  I7!><),  of  a  family  of  seamen.  Parry,  at  an 
early  ap:e,  devoted  himself,  lieart  and  soul,  to  the  professi'm 
in  wliich  his   father  had  ^'rowu  old.     In  his  twenty-eiL;lit!i 
year  he  discovered  Melville  Island,  and  his  subsequent  t'X[M- 
dition  confirmed  the  excellent  reputation  he  had  acquired  I'v 
his  (irst  brilliant  success.     From  the  years  1821)  to  lS;jlv>v 
lind  him  in  New  South  Wales,  as  Resident  Commissioner  ' : 
the  Australian  A«,a-icultural  Company.     In  the  year  1S;57.  li 
Avas  appointed  to   or<^'anise    the    mail  packet    service,   thou 
transferred  to  the  Admiralty;  and  after  lilliiif>-  the  ]iost  li 
Captain    Superintendent  of  the    Royal   Kaval    Ilos' 
Ilaslar,  was  linally  appointed  Governor  of  (jfi'eenM'ich 
He  died  in  the  summer  of  IS.")."),  at  Ems. 

Ten  years  had  elapsed  since  (\iptain  .i  i  Ro^  iii>' 
unsuccessful  voyaf^-e,  when  the  veteran  seaman,  anxious  t" 
obliterate  the  reproach  of  former  failure  by  som  worthy 
achievement,  was  enabled,  throu<4h  the  munificence  of  !^i'' 
Felix  Booth,  to  accomplish  his  wishes.  A  small  Livorpi' 
steamer,  b<>arinjT;'  the  rather  presumptuous  name  of  the  'M  -j 
tory,'  was  purchased  for  the  voyag-e,  a  rather  unfortnniito 
selection,  for  surely  nothini;'  can  be  more  unpractical  tliau 
paddle-boxes  among  ice-blocks  ;  but  to  make  amends  for  tliH 


IJoSS    I.N    Tin:    •  \  KTOKV. 


•]«)3 


icouutoivd  a 
ilu'in  to  hi'AV 

i-tlu'i'ly  vtii'io 

bcloll^'ill!^'    tn 

irly  dnMi.h-'; 

so  Ibiit  l\v  l!.' 
(Mi'^'tU  to  luril 
frr(>iii  oxi'vtinii. 
after  Avlii''li.  ;i 
I  a  fi'W  1^""^''' 
,>v  the  dt'-vu'- 
hiive  boon  hkv.' 
,f  cndrnMiiCi'  in 
\t  opinion  wli' -i 

,  Arctic  voya!2;t's. 
iMU  Tarry,  iit  ii:i 
,0  tlio  profession 
s  t\voiity-(>i!^'l'*l' 
ul)SCfiuent  i'XIk'- 
liad  acfiuiroiUn- 
11S-21>  to  ISOl-vv.' 
oiumissioncr  ''i 
10  year  18;)7,li' 
?t   service,  tli-'''. 
Ihio-  tlie  I'o^t  '■■ 

val    Il«' 

oiu   id 


iiv^t" 


,,iiili' 


liuaii 

Iby  S0111     wi 
Inn  licence  of  ^i- 
sniall  I.ivorpo*'! 
lame  of  tlie  '  ^  i  • 
tliev  imfortunate 
lunpractical  tlumj 
L  a  mentis  f"^' ^^' 


(1 1'ltr,  the  eoiiniiandcr  of  Ihc  cxpudition  was  lurlunatt'  in  liciip^ 
;ici'(iiiij)anie(l  by  liis  iicpliew,  Connnand'-r  .Fames  Ross,  wlm, 
wiiii  every  (piality  of  the  seaman,  uiiiled  the  /eal  of  an  ahle 
iiiiliiralist.  Jfe  it  was  who.  hyhis  well-exeeiited  sled^-e jour- 
IP  _vs,  made  the  chief  diseoveries  of  the  expi'dil  ion,  Itnt  the 
vev'ii^'e  of  the  '  Victory  '  is  far  less  iNMnarkahh'  jor  successes 
iiiliieved  tlian  for  its  niiexam]ded  [Mvttraet ion  durinLj;a  period 
ef  live  years. 

The   lirst  season   ended   well.     On    An^'ust    1<),    1Sl*!>.   tia^ 
'Victory'  entered   Pi-ince  KeL;'ent's  Fidet  and  reailied  on  the 
l:;!li  the  spot  wlit.M'i;  l*arry,  on  his  third  voyage,  had  been  ob- 
liged to  ahan(h)n  Ihe  'Fury.'    'Jdie  shi[»  itself  had  heen  swept 
ii\v;iy;  hnt  all  lier  sails,  stores,  and  provisions  on  land  wrnv 
t'liimd  nntonehe(h     The  hermetically  .sealtMl  tin  canisters  in 
which  the  flonr,  meat,  bread,  Avine,  spirits,  suLi'ar,  iVe.,  were 
[>;icked,  had  presei'ved  them   from   the  attacks  of  the  white 
l.it'iirs,  and  they  wen;  found  as  e-ood  after  four  years  as  tliey 
liiiil  l)e(Mi  on  th(^  dav  when  the  '  Fnrv  '  started  on  her  vova<;'e. 
h  was  to  this  discovery  that  the  crew  of  the  'Victory  '  owed 
tiicii-  sulwerpient  invservalion,  ibr  how  else  could  they  have 
I'li.-sed  fonr  -winters  in  tlie  Arctic  wast(\s'J 

(hi  Aufjust  To,  Cape  (iaiTy  Avas  attained,  the  nnjst  southern 
[Miint  of  the  inlet  Avhich  Parry  had  reached  on  his  third 
ya'^e.  Yo<fa  and  drift-ice  oreatly  retarded  the  pro^-ress  of  the 
expedition,  bnt  Ross  moved  on,  though  sk»wly,  so  that,  aliont 
till'  middle  of  Septend)ei*,  the  map  of  th(>  northern  regions 
was  enriched  bv  some  ;'')00  miles  of  newlv-discovere(l  coast. 
hiii  now,  at  the  beg'innin;^'  of  Avinter.  the  '  Victory'  was  obliyed 
"  t;dce  refne-o  in  Felix  TIarbonr,  Avhere  the  nscdess  steam 
u'iiii.'  Avas  throAvn  overl)oard  as  a  nnisance.  and  the  usnal 
['ivparations  made  for  spendin^j;' the  ct'hl  season  as  pleasantly 


V(P 


as  iioss 


ibh 


The  foUoAvine-  spring*  ;from  ^May  17  to  Juik-  I-'i)  Avas  em- 
jildved  by  James  Ross  on  a  sledge  journey,  which  ItMl  to  Ihe 
'liscovei  of  King  William's  Sound  and  K'ing  William's 
h;iii(l.  dnring"  AA'hich  that  courageous  mariiier  penetrated 

^'1  fii  the  AA'est,  that  he  had  only  ten  days'  jirovisions — 
sriuitil  ;aeasured  out — for  a  return  voyag"e  of  200  miles 
tliroiigh  an  empty  wilderness. 

Atb-r   twelve    months'   imjivisounient,   the   '  Victory '    was 

1}  \>  J 


qp 


404 


TUK    I'OI.AIl    WOKI-I). 


{'0 


rc'leasocl  from  the  ico  on  Soptoinboi'  17,  aiul  procoedocl  on 
luoro  on  lior  discoveries,  l^ut  tlie  period  of  lier  liberty  was 
short,  for  tiftor  adviincing*  lluve  miles  in  one  continual  battle 
ay.iinst  the  currents  and  the  drift-ice,  she  aii'iiin  froze  fisl 
on  the  'Jrth  of  the  same  month. 

In  the  followiuLj  spring  we  ag'ain  see  the  indefatig\iMc 
James  Ross  extendin<j"  the  circle  of  his  sledyo  excursions,  and 
planting-  the  British  iiag  on  the  site  of  the  Northern  ^ilwj;- 
netic  Pole — which,  however,  is  not  invariably  fixed  to  one 
spot,  as  was  then  l)elieved,  but  moves  fnjm  place  to  placL' 
within  the  glacial  zone. 

On  August  28,  1S:>1,  the  'Yii-tory' — after  a  second  iiii- 
jH'isonment  of  eleven  months — was  warjied  into  open  wa1ir: 
but  afti'r  speiiding  a  wh(de  month  to  advance  four  miles,  sho 
w*as  encon)[)assed  by  the  ice  on  .Septendier  27  and  once  wuny 
fettered  in  the  dreary  wiMerness. 

As  there  seemed  no  prospect  of  extricating'  her,  next 
sunnner,  they  resolved  to  abandon  her  and  travel  over  th." 
ice  to  Fury  Beach,  there  to  avail  themselves  of  the  l)o;i1s. 
provisions.  ;md  stores,  which  would  assist  them  in  rcadiiii',' 
Davis'  Straits.  Accordingly,  on  ]May  2!'.  1S:>2,  the  coldur^ 
of  the  'Victory'  were  hoisted  and  nailed  to  the  mast,  wvA 
after  dianlcii\g  a  parting  glass  to  the  shij)  with  the  c-rev,.  aiul 
haviui"'  seen  every  man  out  in  the  cveninti',  the  ca])tain  tei'k 
his  own  leave  of  her.  'It  was  th(^  first  vessel,'  says  Eos-, 
'that  1  had  ever  been  obliged  to  aV>andon,  after  having  srrvnl 
in  thirl  v-six,  durin<>"  a.  period  of  fortv-two  years.  It  was  liki' 
the  last  parting  with  an  old  friend,  and  I  did  not  jtass  the 
point  where  she  ceased  to  be  visible,  Avithout  stopjung  to  lak  • 
a  sketch  of  this  melancholy  desert,  rendered  more  melan- 
choly by  the  solitary,  abandoned,  helpless  home  of  oiu' jmv 
years,  tixed  in  immovable  ice,  till  time  should  jierfoviii  vw 
her  his  iisual  work.' 

After  having,  with  incredible  ditficidty,  reached  Fur 
Beach,  where,  thanks  to  the  forethought  of  Sir  l-Mwai'i 
Parry,  they  fortmiately  Ibund  a  sutticient  nundjcr  of  l)eat- 
left  f(»r  their  purpose,  and  all  the  provisions  in  good  condition. 
they  set  out  on  August  1 — a  considerable  extent  of  open 
sea  being  visible  — and,  after  much  butl'eting  among  the  ic'. 
reached  the  north  of  the  inlet  l)y  the  end  of  the  month.     I'li' 


l.Ml'inso.X.MKNr    IN    ICK. 


405 


1-  liberty  ^v;H 
itumal  battl'' 
ill  iVu/.o  i\\< 

iii(lef!iti;j,'iibl'' 
enr.sions,  ;inil 
Dvtliorn  Mag- 
fixcd  to  out' 
)laee  to  placi' 

a  stH'ontl  iiii- 
o  opt'ii  wat'T ; 
xmv  miles,  slio 
.111(1  once  mi'vo 

ilio-     lu'V.     lH'Xt 

:rav('l  over  tl:' 
s  of  the  V.euis. 
m  in  reaeliiii!,' 
2,  tlie  cclonr- 
l\e   masi.  ai:'l 
the  erew.  'Mu\ 
ic  eaptain  tonk 
ici;  says  Res-. 
liavin;4"  s<  rvnl 
s.     It  \vas  ]ik" 
(1  not  pass  till' 
toi)i>in-a' tolalv' 
1  more  iiiela;i- 
1,10  of  our  ]'a>f 
|ikl  pert". 'Via  »".'. 

roaeliea    Far; 

l>f   Sir    Kdwav'l 

InnVier  of  '"  "-'^^ 

lov.odeoniliti"!'- 

Extent   of   "l'^'" 
lumono-tbeioo. 


h,'!','  tliey  were  dooiii'd  lo  disai)pointiiieiit,  for.   afler  several 


tl"ss    attempts   to   run    aldiej;    l»ari' 


()\V 


Strait,    the    ice 


L^'ed  tlieiii  to  haul  their  loals  on   slioi-e.  and  ])iti-h  their 


m 


ss 


(.Mi 

t  iits.  Day  after  day  th^y  liiiLi-ered,  till  the  third  weelc 
.Sept^'jiiber,  biit  the  strait  contiiiniiijL;"  one  impenetrable  m; 
(if  iei\  it  was  unanimonslv  aii'reed  that  their  oiilv  resonr<-e 
was  lo  tall  back  a;4'ain  on  the  stores  at  i-'iiry  IJeaeh,  an<l 
llii'iv  spend  a  Ibnrtli  lon;^'  winter  within  the  Ai\'tie  ('ircl(>. 
They  wore  only  able  to  «;'et  lialf  the  distance  in  the  boats, 
which  Avere  lianled  on  shore  in  Batty  Bay  on  Sejitcmbcr  "J  I, 
iiiid  performed  the  rest  of  their  jonrney  on  foot,  the  jiro- 
visioiis  beiuLi'  drau'ii'ed  in  sled>.';es.  ( )n  October  7  thev  oni-o 
iiinrc  readied  the  canvas  lint,  diiiaiitied  with  the  name  of 
•Somerset  House,'  which  they  had  erected  in  July,  on  tlio 
scene  of  the  '  Furv's  '  wreck,  and  which  they  had  vainly 
]i(i)icd  never  to  see  a^-aiii. 

They  iKjw  set  about  buildin<^"  a  snow-wall  four  feet  thick 
iMaiid  their  dwellina',  and  stren^'theninu'  the  roof  with  sj)ars, 
fnr  the  purpose  of  coverini;'  it  with  snow,  and  by  means  of 
tliis  shelter,  and  an  additional  stovt',  made  themselves  tole- 
lalih'  comfortable,  until  the  iiicreasiiii^-  s(vcritv  of  the  cold, 


and 


[I'll 


s  a  in  I  >ori'iy 


the  furious  li'ales,  confined  tlicin  within  door 
il    their    [)atience.      Siairvy    now    be^an    to    appear,   and 


Sl'Vei'a 
liliie. 


1  of  the  men  fcdl  victims  to  the 


sconrv'e 


A I  til 


e  same 


csea 


diu 


lie  ni' 


•nth. 


',  cares  for  the  future  darkene(l  the  Li'loom  of  their  situ- 

I!  :    for,   should  they  be   disappointed  in   their   hopes   of 

[lin^'  in  the  ensuin;^'  sumnun',  their  fiilin^-  streiin'th  and 

liuishinL!:  stores  yave  them  but   little  hojx.'  of  snr\i\iny 

aiintlu'r  year. 

It  may  easily  be  inue^ined  how  anxiously  the  nio\eineiits 
nf  the  ice  were  watched  when  the  next  season  (.pen.i!.  and 
wiiii  what  beatin*;'  hearts  they  embarked  at  l!a1ty  J!.iy  on 
Aii'^ust  l').  Makiu^j;-  their  Avay  slowly  a nioic.;-  the  masst's  of 
i'-'O,  with  which  the  iuh't  was  encumbered,  they,  to  iheir  u'reat 
j'ly,  found,  on  the  17tb,  the  wide  ex[»anse  of  IJari'ow's  Strait 
e[> '11  to  navig'atit)!). 

i'ii>hinLi'  **"^  with  renewe(l  spirits,  ('ap(^  York-  soon  lay 
hciruid  them,  and  altt  rnately  rtwvin';  and  sailiuu",  on  the 
iii-lit  of  the  25th  they  reste«l  in  a  i;'ood  harbour,  on  the 
eastern   sjiore   of  Xavv    l>oard    Tulet.     At    I-  f>'clock   on   the 


WW 


40C, 


Tin:    I'CtLAK    WOHLI). 


f()llowiii<4-  iiioriiin^',  tliey  were  ronsed  from  tlu/ir  sIuidIxi-  liy 
the  joyful  intellij^'t'Mce  of  a  ship  Ix'injj;'  in  si^j^ht,  and  never  dil 
men  more  hurriedly  and  eneru'etically  set  out ;  but  the  ele- 
ments Avere  a;j;-ainst  them,  and  the  ship  disappeared  in  llu' 
distant  haze. 

After  a  few  hours'  suspense,  the  si^-ht  of  another  vi  s^e!. 
lyin<4'  to  in  a  eahn,  relieved  their  desi)air.  This  time  their 
exertions  were  successful,  and,  stran^'e  to  say,  the  ship  which 
took  them  on  board  was  the  same  'Isabella' — now  redueti] 
to  the  raidv  of  a  private  whaler— in  which  Ross  had  niiu.le 
his  first  voya<^'e  to  the  Arctic  Seas. 

The  seamen  of  the  'Isabella'  told  him  of  his  own  deatli— 
of  which  all  Eui^land  wa-.  jiersuaded — and  could  hardly  Ix- 
lieve  that  it  was  really  he  and  his  party  who  now  sto(jdbcfoiv 
them.  But  when  all  doubts  were  cleared  away,  the  riej-n-ino' 
was  instantly  manned  to  do  them  honour,  and  thunderiii;^' 
cdioers  Avelcomed  Ross  and  his  gallant  baiul  on  board  !  The 
scene  that  now  followed  caun<jt  be  better  told  than  in  lioss'ti 
own  words. 

'  Tliou<4'h  we  had  not  been  supported  by  our  names  ainl 
characters,  we  should  not  the  less  have  claimed  from  clniriiy 
the  attentions  that  we  received;  for  never  was  seen  a  UKirc 
miserable  set  of  Avretches.  Unshaven  since  I  knoAV  not  wIk'H. 
dirty,  dressed  in  the  ra^'s  of  Avild  beasts,  and  starved  to  tln' 
very  bones,  our  <^-aunt  and  <4Tim  looks,  when  contrasted  ^vith 
those  of  the  well-dressed  and  well-fed  men  ar(.)und  us.  nuule 
us  all  feel  (I  believe  for  the  first  time)  what  we  really  wtiv. 
as  Avell  as  Avhat  Ave  seemed  to  others.  But  the  ludiereiis 
soon  took  the  place  of  all  other  feeling's  ;  in  such  a  crowd  aiiii 
such  confusion,  all  serious  thought  Avas  impossible,  Avliile  tli'' 
ncAv  buoyancy  of  our  spiiits  made  us  abundantly  Avilliiiu' t^ 
be  annised  by  the  scene  Avhich  noAV  opened.  Every  man  \v;i> 
hungry,  and  was  to  be  fed;  all  AA'cre  ragged,  and  Avere  to  l"' 
clothed:  there  Avas  not  one  to  Avhom  Avashing  Avas  not  iiidis- 
]iensable,  nor  one  Avhom  his  beard  did  not  deprive  eij'  all 
hunum  senddance.  All,  everything  too,  was  to  be  done  at 
once:  it  Avas  Avashing,  dressing,  shaving*,  eating,  all  ii 
mhiglcd  :  it  was  all  the  materials  of  each  j^unblctl  together. 
Avhile  in  the  midst  of  all  there  Avere  interminable  (piestiiMis 
to  b(^  iisked  and  answered  on  Ixilh  sides:  tlie  adventures  ef 


nOHS.s    IJCTLUX    TO    llNd  i.A.Nl). 


•lur 


oiuid  us.  inai 


the  "Victory,"  onr  own  escapes,  tlu'  politu-s  of  Eiij^'huul,  and 
the  nt'ws  Avliit.-Ii  Avas  iiuvv'  luiir  years  old.  But  iiU  suljsidod 
into  peace  at  last.  The  sick  were  accommodated,  the  seamen 
(lis^iused  of,  and  all  was  done  fur  us  wliich  care  iuid  Idndness 
c<i!i!(l  perform.  Niylit  id  len<i-tli  bruu^-lit  quiet  and  serious 
tlmiinhts,  and  I  trust  there  was  not  a  man  among-  us  who 
(lid  not  then  express  where  it  was  duo,  his  j^-ratitude  f<ir  that 
iiilerposition  which  had  raised  ns  all  from  a  despair  wliieh 
iKjiie  could  HOW  foro-et,  and  had  In-on^-ht  us  from  the  borders 
efa  most  distant  g-rave,  to  life,  and  friends,  and  civilisation. 
Lnii^-  accustomed,  however,  to  a  cold  bed  on  the  hard  snow, 
-a-  the  bare  rocks,  few  cordd  sleep  amid  the  comfort  of  our 
new  aecommodations.  I  was  myself  compelled  to  leave  tlu; 
bed  wliicli  had  been  kindly  assig-ned  me,  and  talce  my  abode 
ill  a  chair  for  the  ni<4ht  :  nor  did  it  fare  much  better  with 
the  rest.  It  was  for  time  to  reconcile  us  t(»  this  sudden 
and  violejit  chanLi'e,  to  break  tlironj^h  what  had  bt'como 
habit,  and  to  inure  ns  once  more  to  the  v.sayes  of  our  former 
ilay.s." 

The  'Isabella'  renniined  some  time  lon^^'er  in  Baffin's  Bay, 
til  prosecute  the  fishery,  and  thus  our  Arctic  voya<,'ers  did 
lint  return  to  Enj^Iand  before  October  l-"),  18o:»,  when  they 
Were  received  as  men  risen  from  the  o'l-nc.  Wherever  Itoss 
iqtp'ared,  he  was  met  and  escorted  by  a  erowd  (d"  sympa- 
thisers ;  orders,  medals,  and  diplomas  i'rom  for('i<4n  state's  and 
Haviii'd  societies  rained  down  upon  him.  London.  Liveriiool, 
Ijristiil,  and  Hull  presented  him  with  the  freedom  of  their 
respective  cities;  he  received  the  honour  of  knii^'hthood ; 
and,  tlumii'li  last,  n(.)t  least,  Parliament  <i-ranted  him  o,<J0()/. 
as  a  remuneration  for  his  pecuniary  outlay  and  privations. 

it  may  easily  be  inuiL^'ined,  that  his  loiiLi'.  ]irotraeted 
ahseut'C  had  not  been  alloAved  to  ])ass  without  awakoniu^;'  a 
stroiiti'  desire  to  brin[>"  him  aid  and  assisianee.  Thus,  wlwii 
^'aptain  (afterwards  Kear-Admiral  Sir  Georj^^e)  Back,  that 
niilile  Baladin  of  Arctic  reseandi,  volunteered  to  lead  a  land 
e.\p<'dition  in  quest  of  Boss,  to  the  northern  shore  of  America, 
l.iHin/.  ^vere  innnediately  raised  by  public  sidjscrlption  to 
'lelVay  expenses.  While  deep  in  the  American  wilds.  Back 
*vas  j^'ratilied  with  the  Intel lij^'ence  that  the  obji'ci  of  liis 
■■''avrli  liad  safelv  arrived  in  Inejlaml  :  but.  instead  of  return- 


40S 


Tlir:    I'OI.Ml    WORLD. 


inpf  lioino,  the  indoi'ntif^altlo  explorer  resolved  to  tniee  tin.' 
unknown  eourse  of  tin."  Tlihi-it-sclio,  or  (Jreut  Fish  Eivcr, 
down  to  the  distant  outlet  wlun-e  it  pours  its  waters  into  (.lit; 
Polar  Seas. 

It  would  take  a  volunio  to  relate  his  adventures  in  t!i",s 
expedition,  the  numberless  i'alls,  cascades,  and  ra}>ids  1liat 
obstructed  his  prog'ress ;  the  storms  and  snow-drifts,  tiic 
horrors  of  tlie  deserts  tlirouo-h  which  he  forced  his  way.  nntil 
lie  linallv  (Julv  28)  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Thlu-it-selio. 
or,  rather,  the  broad  estuary  throuodi  Avliich  it  disendjdiiucs 
itself  into  the  Polar  Sea,  Bis  intention  Avas  to  proceed  t^ 
Point  Turna<j,"ain,  Imt  the  obstacles  were  insurmountable, 
even  by  him.  For  ten  days,  the  explorin;4'  party  had  a 
continuation  of  wet,  chilly,  fog^'y  weather,  and  the  oiily 
veg-etation  (fern  and  moss)  was  so  damp,  that  it  wcnild 
not  burn  ;  bein;^'  thus  Avithout  fuel,  thc'y  had  C)nly  dnrin.;' 
this  time  one  hot  nu'al.  Almost  without  water,  without  aiiv 
means  of  warmth,  and  sinking  knee-deep  as  they  procfCMliil 
on  land,  in  the  soft  slush  and  snoAV,  no  Avonder  that  sonic  uf 
the  best  men,  benumbed  in  their  limbs,  and  dispirited  by  tin.' 
prospect  l)efore  then),  broke  out  for  a  moment  in  riuu'imir- 
ing  at  the  hardness  of  their  duty. 

On  August  15,  seeing  the  impossibility  of  proceeding  cviii 
a  singlo  mih>  further,  Baek  assembled  the  men  aromid  lain. 
and  unfurling  the  British  flag,  Avhich  Avas  saluted  Avith  tluve 
cheers,  he  announced  to  them  his  determination  to  rctiiiii. 
The  difficulties  of  the  river  Avere  of  course  doubled  in  tli" 
ascent,  from  liaving  to  go  against  the  stream.  All  \h' 
obstacles  of  rcxdcs,  rapids,  sand-banks,  and  long  portages  lunl 
to  be  faced.  They  foinid,  as  they  Avent  v-u,  that  many  ol'tlii' 
deposits  of  provision.-,  on  Avhich  they  relied,  had  been  de- 
stroyed by  Avolves.  Al'ler  thus  toiling  on  for  six  Aveeks.  liny 
Avere  ultimately  stopped  by  one  most  formidable  ptr|ii'ii- 
dicular  fall,  Avhich  obliged  them  to  abandon  their  bo;il  :  anil 
proceeding  on  foot — each  laden  Avith  a  pack  of  about  7">  Hi^ 
Aveight — thev  idtimatelv  arrived  at  their  old  habitatien,  Feit 
Ri'liance,  after  an  absence  of  nearly  four  months,  (whaustod 
and  worn  out,  but  justly  proud  of  having  accomplished  s-u 
ditlicuU  and  dangerous  a  voyage. 

The   Fish  Pivor  has  since   been    named   Back's   Piver,  in 


F-XIM.oltATIONS    (IF    I'-ACK    AM)    SlMl'SOX, 


401 


to  trace  Uk.' 

Fisli  Eivrv. 

.tei's  into  ill'' 

tares  in  lli'.s 
rapids  ilial 
w-drit'ls,  t!u' 
lis  way.  until 
Tlilu-it-seho. 

(lisi.'iiib(i;^'ues 
to  pruecrd  {>< 
nu'iinniiitaltl''. 

party    lia'l  ;i 
uik\  tlic  only 
tliut   it   wonl.l 
I  only  during 
■r,  witlioiit  any 
;lu>y  procoeclf-l 
1-  tiiiit  some  of 
spirited  by  tlic 
it  in  miirmur- 

vococtlin'^"  fVt.il 
■n  '.iroiUKl  Llui. 
Iited  Nvitli  tliiv'' 
1(11  i<»  retniii. 
til" 


lonUed  ii 


•earn. 


All  tb' 


ti 


|;4  porta^e^ 
it  nuniv  •> 


had  1 

iix  "NVCt 


1, 


)i'rli   I 
■ks.  lli»'\ 


|id;il»le  pt 'T 
lu'ir  lit'iil  •• 
|l'  alxiiil  7 
ihltatioa. 


ail' 


iVt 


|tli>,  » 
.'comi 


ICK  fS 


xliau-- 
ilit^lit'. 


:ive 


lidiicin-  of  its  discovoi-cr :  aiid   surely  no   ^;'eo;i^'rapli!Ciil   di.s- 
tliictiini  lias  ever  Im'ch  more  justly  incritid. 

This  iudetiiti^Ml)lt'  cxjjloi-fr  liail  scarcely  returned  to  llu'j,'- 
laiid  i^>i'pt.S,  IS^)-")),  wlit'ii  lie  once  more  set  out  mi  Liswav  to 
til'.'  Arctic  ro«^'ions;  l)iit  liis  ship,  the  '  Terror,'  was  so  dis- 
abled hy  the  ice,  that  she  was  scarcely  able  to  accomiilisli 
the  return  voya^'e  across  the  Atla.ntie,  Avifhout  allowing- lier 


to  ma  Ice  anv  n('W  (Uscoverii 


a- 


Tlie  land  expedition  seiit  out  by  ih"   Hudson's  iJav  Coi 
pany  (18:]7   :>!>),  under  the  direction  of  Peter  Warren  I)(^ase, 
le  of  their  (diief  factors,  and  Mr.  Thomas  Simpson,  ]»roved 


el 


far  more  successful.     Descendiuo-  (he  3lacki'n/ie  to  the  s.-i, 
they  surveyeil,  in  July,  l.S:')7,  that  [>art  of  tlee  norlhcrn  coast 
cf  America  Avhicli  had  lieen  left  unexamined  by  I'rankliii  and 
Kls)ii  in  IS^-").  from  lieturn  Iveef  to  C*a[)e  IJarrow. 
Althouii'h  it   was  the  heiu'ht  of  summer,  the  o'v,,uiid  was 


TnlUH 


11 


rozen  severa 


1  inch 


tl 


les   l-elow  tUe  snrlac*.'.  ami  tlie  spray 


1   th 


tVn/c  on  the  oars  and  riLf^iuL;'  of  their  Ijoafs,  which  the  drift 

ice  along'  the  shore  uUiinately  obli^ied  them  to  leave  l)ehind. 

xVs  they  Avent  onwards  on  foot,  heavily  laden,  the  frequent 

iii'cessitv  of  wadinu'  nn  to  tlie  middle   in   tlie  i 


ce-coKi  water 


if   the    inlets,    toivether    with    the    c 


111; 


f(  )14',' 


am 


1    th 


liari»  iH)! 


■th  wind,    tried   tl 


leir 


|>o\Vi 


of  endurance  to   ilie 


mun'st;  l>ut  Simpson,  tlie  lieni  (d'lla'  expedition,  \vas  not  to 


d. 


dl 


tieterreu  iiv  a. nvtnui 


th 


dua-t 


(n 


ll 


i-ohit.'  im[H 


nor 


d  he  sto')  till  he  had  reaidied   i\»int   Dan 


OAV 


i>  ilil 


Indeed,  n 


o 


lauii  Cdidil  be  more  fit  than  he  to  h'a<l  an  expeditinn  liivi'  t  his, 
fir  he  had  once  before  travelled  2.<H)U  miles  on  foot  in  the 
iddle  of  Avinter  from  Yorlc    Factorv  to  Athabasca.  Avalkinu' 


lu 


seiiietimes  not  less   than  oO   mihs  i 


n   one 


dav.  and  Avithout 


;iiiv 


■rotection  a<i'ainst  the  cdid  lait  an  (trdiiiar\  (doth  mantle 


>ear 


Alter  wintering-  at   i'"ort  ( 'oiiiidcnce.  on   < 
the  next  season  Avas  ].ro'i!ali]y  ciiiphiye 
(.'"I'liermine  Itix'er,  and  t rai  Iul':  iieai'iv  I  !"  mih  -;  of  lU'W  coast 


iU    ([esci  ndiii! 


a  Kc 
th( 


•1 


1     (' 


ipe  Turnagain, 


the   11 


lllli       IU 


raiiklin  s  >nr\-ev   m 


•'1 


The  third  season   (Isd'.t)   Avas  still 


nioi'i 


a\  (lurei 


1  1 


'V 


inie 


for  Simi>son  succeeded  in  discovering  theAvhole  coast 


b 


K'VUIK 


1    ( 


111)0 


Tur 


ua!'-aiu,  as 


far 


Castor  and  I'ollux  liiver 


(August  2n,  is:!*)),  on  the  eastern  si<le  of  the  vast  arm  of  the 
^('•A  which  receives  the  Avaters  of  the  Great  Fish  Kiver.     On 


•"HI 


-no 


Tin:    I'OLAU    WUKLD. 


liis  return  vovau'c,  lie  traced  sixty  miles  of  the  south  coast  of 
Kiii^-  AVillianr.s  Islantl,  and  a  considerable  part  of  the  lii^ii, 
hold  shores  of  Victoria  Land,  and  reached  Fort  Conlidence 
on  September  21,  after  on('  of  the  lon<^-est  and  most  success- 
ful boat  vovaii'es  ever  i)erf»jrmed  in  the  Polar  waters,  haviiiL;' 
teiv(}rsed  more  than  1,(500  miles  of  sea. 

Unfortunately  he  Avas  not  destiiied  to  reap  the  rewards 
of  his  labour,  for  in  the  IbUowin^-  year,  while  trayellint;-  {\\>\\\ 
the  lied  River  to  the  Mississippi,  where  he  intended  to  cm- 
barlc  for  England,  he  was  assassinated  by  his  Indian  o-uidis: 
and  thus  died,  in  the  thirty-sixth  year  of  his  au'e,  one  of  the 
best  men  that  have  ever  served  the  eause  of  science  In  tin' 
frozen  north. 

On  May  2(5,  18  15,  tSir  John  Fraidclin,  now  in  the  sixtieth 
year  of  his  a<i,'e,  and  Captain  Crozier,  sailed  from  EuLihrnd. 
to  make  a  new  attempt  at  the  north-west  passai^-e.  !Nevor 
did  stouter  vessels  than  the  '  Erebus  '  and  '  Terror,'  well-tried 
in  the  Antarctic  8eas,  carry  a  liner  or  more  ably  commandiil 
crew ;  never  before  had  human  foresight  so  strained  all  lier 
resources  to  ensure  success ;  and  thus,  when  the  commander's 
last  despatches  from  the  Whalefish  Islands,  BatHn's  Bay 
(July  12),  preyious  to  his  sailing-  to  Lancaster  Sound,  ar- 
rived in  England,  no  one  doubted  but  that  ho  was  about 
to  add  a  new  and  brilliant  chapter  to  the  history  of  Arctic 
discoyery. 

His  return  was  confidently  expected  towards  the  end  of 
18  I"  ;  but  wheji  the  Avinter  passed  and  still  no  tidings  came, 
the  anxiety  at  his  prolonged  absence  became  general,  and  the 
early  })art  of  18  18  Avitnessed  the  beginning  of  a  series  uf 
searehing  expeditions  titted  out  at  the  public  cost  or  h_v 
jirivate  munilicence,  on  a  scale  exceeding  all  former  exaniplt.!^. 
The  Tloyer'  and  the  'Ilerahr  (18 18)  Avere  sent  to  Behriiui's 
Straits  to  meet  Fraidclin  Avith  supplies  should  he  succeed  in 
getting  thithei'.  In  spring  Sir  John  Richardson  hurried  to 
the  shores  of  the  l\)lar  Sea,  anxious  to  find  the  traces  of  his 
lost  friend.  He  Avas  accompanied  by  Dr.  Rae,  Avho  had  just 
returned  from  the  memorable  land  expedition  (18l()-l'. 
during  whieh,  aftiT  crossing  the  isthmus  Avhieh  joins  Mel\  illt- 
Peninsula  to  the  mainland,  he  traced  the  shores  of  Committee 
Jjav  and  the  east  coast  of  Boothia  as  far  as  the  liOrd  MaM'V- 


Tin:  .sKAiuTi  I'oi:  siij  joii.v  imia.nkm.v. 


411 


itli  coast  (if 
f  the  lii'/iu 
Coiiiiilt-'ucr 
jst  success - 
:crs,  luivin-' 

tlio  rowiivds 

vclUiiLi"  i'l'-'"' 
ided  to  •'Li- 
lian guiil'^". 


0,  one  o 


nil 


cieiice  lu 


tlic 


L  tlie  sixtiftli 
■0111  Enti'liiinl. 
sao-e.     Kfver 
or,'  Avell-triLMl 
y  coiinnaudcil 
•allied  all  licr 
coiiiiu'Aiulcr's 
Baffin's  Bay 
er  Sonncl,  : tr- 
ie ^vas  aljout 
Itory  of  Avctio 

hs  tlie  cud  «'t' 
tidings  came, 
'ucral.  and  tli-' 
,f  11   scries  lit 
lie   cost  or  l\v 
liner  oxami'l'^'^- 
It  to  Behriiu:":^ 
llie  succeed  iu 
;on  liurrieil  to 
le  traces  oC  ln^ 
^vllolK>djust 

on    (181tl-l'- 

1  joins  Melville' 

of  Conniiittoo 

Bovd  Mil} "I""' 


l!;iv  of  Sir  Joliii  Koss,  thus  proving'  that  desohite  Imid  t  »  be 
liki'wise  a  vast  peninsula. 

But  in  vain  did  Eae  and  Richardson  explore  nil  the  coasts 
li.twei'U  the  ]Mackenzie  and  the  Coppermine.  The  desert  re- 
iiiaiiied  mute  ;  and  Sir  James  lloss  ('Enterprize')  and  Captain 
jljid  '*  Investigator  '),  who  set  sail  iu  June  1818,  three  months 
;iiifr  Dr.  Kichardson's  departure,  and  minutely  examined  all 
the  -liores  near  Barrow  Strait,  proved  e(pially  rinsuccessful. 

Three  years  had  now  passed  since  Brankliu  had  been 
expected  home,  and  even  the  most  sanguine  began  to  des[iair ; 
but  to  remove  all  doubts,  it  was  resolved  to  ex]>lore  once 
more  all  the  gulfs  and  channels  of  the  Polar  Si.'a.  Thus  iu 
tlic  vear  18.'")<),  no  less  than  twelve  ships  sailed  forth,  some  to 
lichring's  Straits,  some  to  the  sounds  leading  from  ]]allin*s 
l!av.''  Other  expeditions  followed  in  l8')2  and  iS.Vj,  and 
tliiiugh  none  of  them  succeeded  in  th(M)l)ject  of  their  search, 
vtt  they  enriched  the  geography  of  the  Arctic  World  Avith 
iiiiiiiy  interesting  discoveries,  the  most  important  of  which  I 
will  now  briefly  mention. 

Overcoming  the  ice  of  Balhn's  Bay  by  the  aid  of  their 
]i(i\vcrful  steam-tugs,  Austin,  Ommaney,  and  Penny  reached 
the  entrance  of  Lancaster  Sound.  Here  they  separated,  and 
while  th<^  'Resolute'  remained  behind  to  examine  the 
iK'iiihbourhood  of  Pond's  Bav,  Ommanev  found  at  Cape 
Kiley  ^Xortli  Devon)  the  first  traces  of  the  lost  expedit'on. 
Ill'  \vas  soon  ioined  bv  Ross,  Austin,  Penuv.  and  the  Ameri- 
i"Uis,  and  a  minute   investigation   soon    proved    that    Cajx? 


lN."li)-lS.")l. 
lS.-)()-l.S."..'). 
is"'').  IS.'il, 

is.;>ii.  ihoi. 


iN.Mi,  18.")!. 


IS.id. 
IN-Vi.  ]S,-)1. 


'  Iiivi\sti<rat(a'.' Cai'taiii  3I'Cliii'(\  1  ... 

...         .      ,,,     .    •     /■,  ir  I- rnhrinL'.- Straits. 

'  J-.ntcrjinso,  (,  a]itaiii  (  olIiiiMin,  j 

'  Ilfsolutf,'  C'ai'taiii  Austin,  i  I/inra>tii- Strait  a!i'! 

'  Assistance,' (.'ai'taiu  <  >iani;in(n',  J  (".aaiwallis  Island. 

Acciiiniiaiiieil  I'V  two  steam   tenders,  eiJierml  \>y  Lieutenant 

Slierard  Os'iiiiiir  and  I.iiiitcnaut   1'".  L.  M'l 'linr'.rk. 
•Lady   Franklin.'  .Ma-trr   I'liinv.  aei'on.iiaiiii  d  l.ytln'  'Suphia, 

Alastrr   A.  Strwari.   und.fr   Ailiniralty   Orders    tu   Laneaster 

Strait  and  WtllinLitnn  Oliaiun-l. 

•  Prinee   Alln-rt.    Ca]  tain    I'lirsyili.  l'elun:Mna' to  Lady  I'raiiklin, 

to  Kejjfrnt's  Ldet  and  Ilefcliry  Island. 
'  Ailvaiiee.'  Li<  u'.eiiant  I>e  llavm.  L'.S.N.  t 

•  Krseiir,'  S.  J',  tiiillin.  K->|,.  r.S.X.  j 

l-'itted  at    tke  (  x]iinsc  nt"  11.  (iriiiiiell.    I''s(|..  of  N'ew  "^"ork, 
to  riinii-aster  Strait  and  \\'rlliiiL'ton  C'liaiinel. 


41 


Tiir:  roi.Mi  woiu.d. 


S]>on(:'or  nixl  Boochcy  Jshiiul,  iit  the  oiitriiuco  ol"  Welliiiutnu 
('lianiicl,  liad  Ixm'ii  tlio  site  of  Fninlvliii's  lirst  wlnf^'r-qiiaiii  r-, 


(listiiictlv    innvkcd   bv   tlie  iviiiiiiiis    of 


avLre 


^lorcl 


Mil? 


stav<'s   of  casks,   ciiijity   pi'imiiieau-tiiis,  and   most  touc!:iii 
vclic  of  all   -a  little  ^•anli'ii  sliapod  iiilo  a  neat  oval,  l»v 


(1 


0\V( 


r-lnviiii4'  sailor,   and   lillcd   with   the   few  hardy   ] 


Snlipi 

il;iiits 


\v 


hieh  that  Idcalc  (dinu;  can  nourish.  Mcainvhilo  winh  r 
approached,  and  little  iiiort'  could  he  done  that  season;  so 
all  th(!  vessels  which  had  entered  Barrow's  Strait  now  tiMil: 
up  their  Avinter-cjuarters  at  the  soutlu'rn  extremity  of  CdVii- 
wallis  Land;  with  the  exce])tion  of  the  'Prince  AUuTt,' 
which  set  sail  for  Eni^'hnid  before  Avinter  set  in,  and  of  tin' 
Americans,  who,  perceivin;^'  the  impolicy  of  so  many  slii]s 
pressing'  to  the  westward  on  one  parallel,  turned  bade.  Imt 
were  st)on  shut  up  in  the  pa(dv-ice.  which  for  oi^'ht  Imiu' 
months  ke})t  them  prisoners.  The  '  Rescue '  iind  '  Advance' 
wore  drifted  backwards  and  forwards  in  Wellington  (.'haiiinl. 
until  in  Docend^er  a  terriJic  storm  drove  them  int(j  Barrow's 
Strait,  and  still  fartlier  on  into  Lancaster  Sound.  Sc\.  nil 
times  duri))i4"  this  dreadful  passa<>'C  they  Avcro  in  danger  i'l 
the  ice  o])eninj4-  round  them  and  cdosinj^'  suddenly  aj^ain, 
only  esca[)ed  bein^'  '  in[>ped  '  by  their  small  size  and  shvuL;' 
build,  which  enabled  them  to  rise  above  the  opposiuL;' rdi^vs 
instead  (»f  beinij;'  crushed  between  them.  Even  on  tlicir 
arrival  in  BatHn's  Bay,  the  ice  did  not  release  them  frmn  its 
hold,  and  it  was  not  till  June  i>,  1S5I,  that  they  reached  tli'/ 
Danish  settlement  at  Disco.  Afti-r  recruitin«>-  his  exhan^ifil 
crew,  the  ^•allant  De  Haven  determined  to  return  and  pinsc- 
onte  the  search  durinu;-  the  remainder  of  the  season  ;  but  iIk' 
discouraj^'iny'  n^ports  of  the  whalers  iuducetl  him  to  cImihl;'' 
his  pur])ose,  and  the  ships  and  crews  reached  Xcw  'i'drk  at 
the  Ix'ii'innin^-  of  ()ctol.»er,  having-  passed  throu«4'h  perils  siicli 
as  few  have  endured  and  still  fewer  have  lived  to  re<M)uiit. 


(iiii 


Meanwhile    the  Euj^-lish    searchin<>-    expeditions    had 


111' 


remained  inactive.       As  soon  as  sprin<j,'  canu^,    well  ori:;ni- 
ised   sledyv   ex})editions   were   despatched  in  all  directic 


iii> 


but    they    all    returned    with    the    same    invariable    tal"  ol 
disappointment. 

As  soon  as  "Wcdlin^-ton  Channel  opened.  Penny  boldlv  m- 
tered  tln^  ice-lanes  with  a  boat,  and  after  ;i  series  of  advcii- 


ki;nm:i)V  xv  roiir  i.iioi'oi,!). 


-1 1 .1 


storcli'iiM', 

val,  l>v  sdiii'' 
liivdy  pliints 
.vliilt.'  Aviiili  r 
if  si'uson  ;  <>> 
•ait  now  tnul: 
iiity  of  ('"I'li- 
•inet'  AlliiTt,' 
1,  iii'.d  <il'  ill'' 
(>  many  sliii'S 

led  Irat/l^-.  ''I'l 
)!•  ei^'liv  1 '111!' 
lul  '  Advaufr" 
M'ton  Cliainu'l. 
into  l>arr(i\\"> 
iind,      Srwral 
u  (lan^vv  iV<nii 
ily  au'ahu  and 
/A'  and  sli't'iii;' 
pposinii'  ''t-lil'cs 
:vcn    on   tlioir 
llieni  fVdiii  i\> 
vy  rcafla'd  tli'' 
Ills  exliau>u''l 
in-n  and  pvoso- 
as(.n;  1  nit  the 
liiiu  to  cliaii-o 
Xcw  York  at 
o'li  perils  sucli 
1,)  ivcoinit. 
ions    liad   iini 
,,    ^v.-ll  «'V-;'"- 
tiU   diivitiniis. 

rialdf    tal"  "f 

Inny  boldlv  tn- 
•  rios  of  advi'ii- 


tiu'cs  anil  dittii'ultics,  pcneti'alctl  up  (.)ii.'('n's  ("lianncl,  as  iar 
;i>  JJ.irinj^  Island  and  ('ape  litH'clicr,  wIht;'  lui'st  rcliirtantly 
111'  was  compidlcd  to  turn  l>ai'k. 

A  tine  open  soa  strt'tclicd  mvitiii'/ly  away  to  llio  nortli, 
ha:  Ills  tVan'ilc  boat  was  jll-tMpiipp'Ml  lur  a  voya^'o  of  dis- 
ciwry.  Fully  pci'snadi.'d  that  FranUin  must  ]!a\t'  loUowod 
this  I'outo,  ]io  tailed,  lioweV('i',  in  eonvincin^'  Captain  Austin 
of  till'  li'uth  of  liis  theory,  iind  as,  without  tliat  oHiccr's 
!•  )-njieration,  nothin;;-  could  he  elleeted.  he  was  eoiin»elied  to 
t"llow  the  course  pointed  out  hy  the  Admiralty  squadron, 
wliirli,  after  two  inefi'ectnal  attein])ts  to  enter  Smith's  and 
.Immi's's  Sounds,  returned  to  Eu'^'land. 

The  'Prince  Albert'  liavin;^'  broULi'ht  honu'  in  ISoO  tlie 
int  ■lliL^'cnco  of  tlu»  discoveries  at  JJeechey  Island,  it  was 
i'('S(i!\i'd    to    pi-osecute   the  search  dnriui^'   the   next    se;i; 


iiini 


no  time  was  lost  to  relit  the  little  vi 


l 


and  si'Ui 


1  1 


on, 
ler 


I  IICI' 


mo'.'(!    on    ii(>r    nohu'    errand,   uuilcr    tlie    cunnna;! 


d    of 


W 


1 1, a 


m   Kenned V   ilS.M-o2),  to    oxai 


una' 


Prinee    Pe^'^'nt' 


liil''t  on  the  coast  of  N()rth  iSonierset.      Finding;-  the  ]>as.s;iL;'(> 
fili.strueted  by  a  barrier  of  it-e,  Kennedv  v  as  o])li!>'ed  to  take 


t;-l! 


iporai'y  refuL^'O  in   j'ort  J-Jowm,  on   t! 


le  ea-tern 


4 


I'll'e  ol 


I'lv'  inlet.      As  it  Avas  very  undesir.'''!''.  leiwever,  to  winter  on 
»])osite  coa.st  to  that  a.lon';'  wiiiili  hiy  their  line  of  sejrch. 


th.' 
iuM 


in"dy  with  l'>ur  of  his  men  cros.-cd  to  Fort  Ficopold,  amid 
la^.-M's  of  ice,  to  a>x*ertain  whetlu'r  any  documents  had  been 
•ft  at  this  point  by  previous  searching-  parties.  .Xone 
■\y\u'^  Ix'cn  found,   they  pi'cpared  to   return;    but   to  their 


UlSllKIV 


they 


now 


found  the  iidet  so  blocked  with  ii-i'  a- 


ivuder  it  absolutely  im[»ossible  to  rt>ach  the  vessel  either  i>y 
lioat  or  on  foot.  Darkness  was  f;!st  (dosinii'  round  them,  the 
i:'''-ilne  on  ^vhicll  they  stooil  throateni.'d  every  insiant  to  bo 
>liivered  in  frauanents  by  the  contendiui'-  ice-ldocks  which 
in!s|["d  furiously  aguinpt  it:  unless  they  instantly  returned 
111  shore,  any  monumt  miu'ht  ])rove  their  last.  A  bitter  c()hl 
aiii'lit  (September  10,  IS-M  ),  with  no  shelter  but  tlirir  boat, 
uiiih'r  which    each    man    in   turn   took   an   hour's  rest    -tlu> 


nill'T: 


tl 


fatin'ued  as  tliey  were,  see 


kiuL;- 


sal 


in   hi- isle  <'\er- 


lisc— was  s[)ent  vn  this  inhospitable  shoi'e,  ami  on  the 
thllowiu^'  mornim.;'  they  discovered  that  the  ship  had  disap- 
l''ari'il.    The  drift-ice  had  carried  her  away.  leavin|j;-  Kennedy 


•ii-1 


Tin:    I'til.AK    W(.tUlJ». 


and  liis  coiupnnlons  to  bravo  ili«'  ■wliift-r  iis  well  a-s  ilicy 
could,  and  to  ondiMVonr  in  tin'  s[irinLr  to  rejoin  iUrir  vt'ss.'l, 
Avliich  must  luivo  drifted  down  iln'  inlet,  and  was  nmst  likely 
l)y  this  tinio  imprisoned  by  the  ice.  Fortunately  a.  deiM.t  ,,[' 
provisions,  left  by  Sir  James  Hoss  at  'Whah'r  Point,  w;is 
tolL'rably  near,  and  lindin'^-  all  in  <4'ood  preservation,  Ihiy 
bei^-an  to  tit  up  a,  launcli,  wliieh  had  been  lelt  at  the  same 
place  as  the  stoivs,  for  a  temporary  abode.  .Here  they  siit 
on  October!",  round  a  cheerful  lire,  niannfaeturin^'  wiiitir 
g'arinents  and  completely  resi^'ne<l  to  their  lot,  "wlu^n  stiil- 
<lenly'  to  their  inex[)ressiblo  joy  they  heard  the  sound  of  well 
known  vt»iees,  and  Lieutenant  Bell<»t,  the  secoml  in  connnainl 
of  the  'Prince  All)ert,'  appeared  with  a  party  f>f  seven  men, 
Twice  before  had  this  ^-allant  French  V(»lunteer  made  nn- 
availinry  attempts  to  reach  the  deserted  ])arty,  avIio  sunn 
ib]-i;*ot  their  past  miser}-  as  they  accompanied  their  iVieihls 
back  to  the  ship.  In  the  following"  sprin;jf  Kennedy  iniil 
Bellot  explored  North  Somerset  and  Prince  of  Wales'  Liiml. 
traversing  witli  their  sled<j;'e  J,lO()  miles  of  desert,  but  witli- 
tnit  discovering,^  the  least  traces  of  Frankli)i  or  his  comradiv-. 
Vet  in  spite  of  these  frequent  disai)pointments,  the  searchiii.: 
expeditions  were  not  p:ivon  over,  and  as  Wellin^^'ton  Chaaml 
and  tlie  sounds  to  the  north  of  Eatlin's  Bay  a[)pear;Ml  t^ 
offer  the  best  chances,  tin*  sprint-  of  1  ^-"i^  ^^'itiiesseil  tin' 
departure  of  Sir  Edward  Belcher  and  Captain  Infj,'lefii'l(l'- 
for  those  still  unknown  ree-ions. 

The  voyage  of  the  latter  proved  one  of  the  most  success- 
ful in  the  annals  of  Arctic  navig'aticni.  Boldly  pushing"  up 
Smith's  Sound,  wdiicli  had  hitherto  iDaflled  every  reseavcii. 
Iny'lefield  examined  this  noble  chaniud  as  far  as  7^';!"'^. 
lat.,  when  stormy  weather  drove  him  bade.  He  iu'n: 
attempted  Jones's  Sound,  and  entered  it  sulHciently  to  sec  it 
expand  into  a  Avide  channel  to  the  noriliward. 


^^  18:)2. 

18.V2-]8:)l. 
1S,V2-18.".1. 

I8.v2-is:)i. 

18.V2-18.-)L 
18.-.'2-18.')l. 


'  I.-al'i-V  Cajtaiii  H.  InL'ii'Hi'M.     liady  Frmikliii's  vessel. 
'Assistance,'  Sir  J-Mwanl  Jiclclicr,  to  Laiu-astcr  Souiiil,  Wi !'; 

Cliaiincl. 
Resolute,'    Captain    Kellett,    Laneasler    Strait,    ;\Ielvil'.e, 

liaiiks-  Jslaixl. 
'  PiDUeer,'  Lieutenant  Slua'anl  Oslmrue. 
IntiY'iiiil,"  r'aj-ifain  ^I-("lintuek. 
'  Nnrfli  Star.'  ('a|'tain  I'ullen. 


Tin;  NiMMTi  \\i;-<i'  i'assai.i:. 


I'll  ii-i  tl"'y 
lirir  vt'ss.l. 
most  likt'ly 
y  a  (\r\>i>[  of 
l*(iint.  \v;i> 
/iiiion,   thry 

ore  they  s;;t 

„  Avlion  s'lil- 
=;(iun(l  of  AVcll 
I  in  eonnnnu'l 

,f   SfVfll   Ulfll. 

>ev  iu'.i*l<'  iv.i- 

llu'ir  I'rii'iKl- 
Keiinedy  mu! 
Wfiles'  La  ml. 
^ert.  l)ut  Avilli- 
liis  coiuratlo  . 
tlic  soarchiu'.;' 
.•ton  Ciianurl 
appeared  to 
atuessoil  tli'' 
in  IngletioliV' 


ii<>- 


most  sncces^;- 
pusliing  HI' 
very  ^e^^eln•^•ll. 
ai  78^  :5i>'  ^. 

iontly  to  see  it 


:;liirs  vessfl. 


rait. 


Tlic  squadron  -wliicli  sail.-il  iin.lfr  llu>  ooiiiiMaiid  of  Sir 
Ivlward  Uflclier  was  diar^i'd  wltli  lli<>  (lonl)lc  mission  ol' 
prosccutinL''  the  discovcrii.'s  in  Wt'llin^li>n  Channel,  ami  of 
aii'MrJino'  tissistanco  to  Coliiuson  and  .M'Clur.',  who,  it  will 
\\'  vcnKMuhercd,  Irad  s.iiled  in  18.')(>  to  Uchrinn-'s  Straits. 

At  lj(veh<'v  Island,  wlicrc  tlic  '  Xorth  Star'  was  stationed 
;,>  de[»(')t-ship,  Ihe  squadron  se[)arated,  Jieleher  proeeeilin;;' 
with  tho  '  AssistancL' '  and  llie  'Pioneer'  up  AVelline'ton 
Cliannid,  whib  KoIIett,  with  tlio  '  Resolute  '  and  '  [ntrcpid,' 
steered  to  tin.'  west.  Scarcely  had  the  lattor  reachcMl  his 
Avinter-quartovs  (Soptoniher  7,  1852)  at  Dealy  Tshiud,  on  the 
'M)ut]i  coast  (if  Melville  Island,  when  parties  v/eve  sent  f»ut 
1  1  deposit  provisions  at  vai'ious  points  of  the  coast,  for  tlie 


sie( 


li^-e  parties  in  the  ensuiny  spriuir. 

The  ditricuUies  of  transport  over  the  bi'olcen  surface  of  the* 
(losert  when  denuded  of  snow,  may  hi>  estimated  from  thi> 
I'll!  t,  that  tlmuu'li  the  distance  from  the  iiortli  to  the  south 
(■east  of  ISFelvilie  Island  is  no  more  than  :)<)  miles  in  a  direct 


line 


Lieuteirant  IVI-Clintoek  r( 


'qnir 


(M 


1 


no   less 


il 


lan 


1!»  <1; 


ivs 


\n  rciicli  the  lleela  and  Griper  (.!ulf.  Simihir  dilliculties 
;:\vaited  Lieutenant  JNIeehan  on  his  w;iy  to  Liihlon  (lulf, 
hut  he  was  amply  rewarded  hy  lindine'  at  Winter  Harlmur 
«lis[)atehes  from  M'Clnre,  sho\viii;^-  that,  in  April,  ls.")l,  the 
"Investiti'ator'  was  lyin^*  in  Mercy  Jiay,  on  the  opposite  side  of 


llKs 


Strait,  and  that  consequently  the  nortli-wt^st  pas 


sa^n 


o'  ' 


t!ie  oliject  of  so  many  heroic  efforts,  was  at  last  discovered. 

Oil  ]\Iareh  0,  185:',  the  '  Ilesohite^ '  o])eucd  her  sprine-  cam- 
\Ki\'j:n  with  Lieutenant  Pym's  sledy,e  journey  to  IMerey  Bay, 
te  hrinu;  assistance  to  ]\PC'lure,  or  to  follow  his  traces  in  case 
111'  should  no  lonu'er  he  tliere. 

A  ujontli  later  three  other  sledev  exjieditions  left  tlie  ship. 

led   from   the    Ilecla   and 


U'Oceei 


Till-  (Mie  under  M'Clintock  ] 

Griper  (lulf  to  the  west,  and  returned  atter  K'O  days,  havim;- 
t'.Kplered  1,200  miles  of  coast,— a  slede-e  journey  without  a. 
{•arailel  in  the  history  of  Arctic  reseandi,  thoue-h  nearly 
''juahed  by  the  second  party  nndiu*  Lieutenant  Mecham, 
Mclvilli.  ;ii'l   I    wliicli  likewise  started  to  the  Avest  from  Liddon  Gulf,  and  tra- 


•iled    over  a   thousand 


miles   in  iiiin 


■tv-tl 


iree    diivs 


Th 


111 


ird  party,  under  Lieutenant  Hamilton,  which  proceeded  to 


north-east,  towards    the    rendezvous    appoin 


ted    by  Sir 


416 


'iiii;  I'oi.Aii  \\(»i:i,i). 


Edward  Jl'lrlicr  ihc  [iivccdiiiLf  siuniin'r,  was  tin.'  fir.sl  tlml 
rctiii'ui'd  ti»  llii'  ship,  l)iil  I), 'rill-.'  iU  aniwil  iiii''tli"i'  partv 
had  r<tiiiil  its  way  to  tli"  '  J* 'smIii'.i',"  -|).iIi',  wnni,  ciiiai-iafi  1 
ii^aircs,  slowly  cn'i'|tiiin'  aloii^- over  the  niu'Vi'ii  ii-c  A  s (imii <_;•(■  i- 
lai^'lil  have  hi'i'u  surprlsi'd  at  llic  tlimidcriii^'  liiin'alis  wliicli 
hailed  till'  ra^'m'il  ii'oi<j»  IVtim  ii  <listaiici',  or  at  llic  warm  aii<l 


coi'dial    <_;'t'('.'iiii:i;s  w 


hii'li    wdi-oiiii'il    tlifiii  on    d'".dc,  laii 


lio 


Avoiidfi-  tliat  M'CIun'  and  Ills  lici-oic  crew  were  thus  itccIvi 
hy  tln'ir  r('l!ow-s:Min"M.  i\\\rv  a  thvci.'  years'  imprisoniai't 


11  111 


th 


V    lee   (I 


ftll 


oiar  hea. 


()ii  August  I,  l.-i'><»,  1 1K"  •  rnvi.'stij^'ator,'  l(in;,-;5iiic'e  so|iarat('(l 
from  her  cons  »ii,   t li"  •  J'hii('r[)iT;i',''    had    m.'i    th"  '  lIciMlir 


aiu 


I  •]'! 


over 


it  ('a4> 


Li,>l 


>urii(' 


(cvoiid  J>i'hrin:fs  Strali, 


and  now  [>luiiy'('d  alone  iutotlie  uiik'nown  wlideriiesses  of  tli 
Arctic  ()*eau.      She  i-eaclied   thi'  coast    of  Da.nks'   Land 


(i;i 


an 


September  (I,  discovei-ed  i  riuce  .\  Inert   Land  on  the  IMli. 
then  sailed  u[)  Prince  <>{'  \\';des'  Strait,  where,  on  Octolier  l^ 
she  i'ro/e  in  lor  the  winter.      In  the  sami>  in;  nth,  liowev 


er.  ;i 


.sledg'i.'  ex|)editiou  was  sent  to  tlie  nta'lliern  extrcinity  of  tli/ 
strait,  whitdi  established  the  fact  of  its  cominnnicaliun  witli 
fa rry  Sound  and  IJarrow's  .'"■^tvaii.  In  the  f'olJowinLj"  Jiib.'  n;' 
'  Invest ii;'ator,'  tliongdi  set  free,  was  prevented  from  pcaetni- 
tini^'  into  the  sound,  by  impassable  barriers  of  ice.  Xotliinu' 
now  remained  l)nt  to  return  to  the  ,southei-n  extrinniiy  ofth' 
Htrait,  and  then  to  advance  aioiiL;'  the  v/ts!  coa 
Land  to  the  north.      This  course 


st  of 


.liaiilcs" 


was   followv'd   with  telc- 


ibl 


raijie  ease 


till  Anii-ust  20,  when  tlu 


I   W: 


driven 


bet 


Wcc-l 


tl 


le  ice  am 


1  the  Ijeacdi,  a   little  north  of  i'rin^'e  All)ert  (' 


iiiii' 


Llero  she  lay  in  comparative  saiety  till  the  lilMh,  when  th'' 
immense  floe  to  which  she'  was  atte.ciied  was  r;;ised  cdi^'cway- 
out  of  the  Avater,  from  the  pressure  of  sui'rouiidin;^'  ice.  aii'i 
lifted  perpendicularly  sonu:  twenty-tive  feet.  The  sli'^hti  .-^ 
additional  pressiu-e  woidd  have  thrown  the  delicately  ['oisctl 
vessel  entirely  over,  but,  fortunately,  a  lar!4'(>  piece  fnnn 
iniderneath  Avas  rent  away,  and  after  one  or  two  fri>jlitful 
oscillations  the  lloe  rig'hted  itself,  and  drifted  onwards,  bear- 
ine-  the  ship  nnharnved  nj>ou  its  course. 

DiU'inn'the  succeediiiLi'  nnndh,everv  day  bronnht  its  ]>ei'il>. 


■•' '1  !.•  so  two  vt's^rls  ]i;ul  ln'cn  s(i',i   in   tlir    vini'  1.S17  to  llio    I'"lnr  Sr' 
Bi'lirliigs  S(r,iits.  wlieu  liiry  (]:si;i.ivij'ud  th"  ■  ilt  ral-i '  ami  •  I'lovcr  '  Jslimd-. 


riii;  sr.AKi  II  i  nv,  i  kanm.i.n, 


■11' 


rir.-,l    that 
\\\'V   ]i;ivty 

(•iii;ici;it.  1 
A  stviiii'.;'!  r 
rails  wliiili 

wai'iii  ;i!^l 
,-lc,  lull  no 
lU-i  Vrci'iv*  '1 
isoinni'Hi  ill 

(•(.'  S('ll'.lV;itr(l 

u'/n  Strait ;-, 
:io;!s;'s  ci'  til  • 

tliL'  lull,  a  111 
,:i  Oetnli.T'.', 

I),  linWcVt'l'.  a 

iviuity  el'  til'' 
iiioaUoii  wiili 
Iii^'  July  111 ' 
■oin  pi'".K'lv;i- 
Xdtliiiiu' 
Muliy  (>!' til'' 
st  <A  iiaulcs" 
(1  whli  t«iV- 

iVfU  Ix'tWt'C'l 

\l1)t'vt  t'av'. 
Uli,  \vli'''i  tb'' 

liii"*  ii'''«  ''"' 
Tilt'  sli'i'litost 

"lieau'ly  i'"l>^''' 
«    pi,. CO    t'nnii 

two  tViulitt'il 
lo'lit  its  V 


\.,\\  I'm 1  asliiii'i'  l)y  th-'   |»i'i's-;iirt' of  tin'   ire.   iiuw   hiirrit'ij 

iiIuiil;'  amidst  its  ciiclosiiiij;  iiiassrs.  tin'  ailvtiitiircrs,  slowly 
wi'iKiiiL:'  their  way  al(»ii<4'  tlif  iinrtli  coast  nf  Hanks"  l,aii(l,  at 
li'ii'jtli  r<iiniil  rctuuT  ill  a  liarlHiiir  touliicli  the  a|>|ti't>jiriat<' 
inline  (if  Mercy  liay  was  lliankriilly  L;"iveii.  Here  they  s|>eiit 
1  \vn  wiiit'.'rs"  the  jnterveiiiiiy' siimiiier  haviiiL;'  t'aileil  to  release 
the  sliip.  Ill  the  s[trinyvot'  |.*^'>.!.  laeiiteiiaiit  i'yiii  hroii^'ht 
ihi'iii  tlie  ,j<»yt'iil  news  thai  the  "liesolute'  was  not  tarolV. 
Sijcli  had  heeii  the  adventures  ut"  M"('lnre  np  to  the  inoiiient 
wli.'ii  Kellett  welcomed  him  on  hoavil. 

.MiMUwhile  neither  the  sled^-e  ](arties  of  the  '  ivesolute,' 
ii  r  those  whi(di  Sir  Mdward  Uehdier  had  sent  out  in  all 
illreitiourt  from  his  first  wiiiter-t|iiarlers  in  Xort  hiimherland 
^nuiid  (~{'°  oli'  X.  lat.l,  on  the  \vest  sidt'  of  <Jriiine||  reiiiii- 
>iila.  had  heeii  aide  to  disco\-er  the  least  traces  ot'  I'Vanklin. 
Till'  winter  ( lt!');>-'>  1)  passed,  and  in  the  following''  A[)ril. 
Lii'iiteiiaiit  ]\Iecham  found  in  Prince  of  Wales'  Strait, 
;iiii|  later  (»ii  Kamsay  Island  at  its  southern  outlet,  docu- 
iihiits  from  Colliiisoii,  bearing-  date  Auj^aist  27,  ^>-')2,  and 
n'  full  intellie-eiice  of  his  |»roce('diiie's  since   his   separa- 


nviu 


"11 


IVoiu  the  '  ]iivesti«;'ator.*  While  IVI'C'lnre  was  achleviiiu" 
ill  ls.')U  the  discttvery  of  the  north-west  i»assa^e,  Collluson, 
'riviiii;-  arrived  in  ]».'hrln^'*s  Straits  later  in  the  season, 
was  unable  t(»  (huible  Point  liarrow.      In   1  .'^•M,  howevei-.  he 

^'ii'i ded  in  {^'•ettiiiL;'  round  that  projection  and  ['Ursulu;^-  the 

iiiutiiu'utal  (diannel  as  easily  as  his  {ireeursoi-  had  <lone. 
I  'iliiwed  him  throu;^'h  Prince  of  ^Vales'  Strait  ;  but,  thouj^h 
li''  [M'uctratcfl  a  few  miles  further  into  ^Melville  Sound,  he 
!"Und  no  passai;'!',  and  retiirniuL:'  to  the  south  end  of  the 
"■'''iiil  [tassed  the  winter  of  lSo|-.',2  in  Walker  I>ay.  Next 
summer  he  carried  his  shi|>  through  Dolphin  and  rnioii 
""trails  and  Dease  Strait  to  Canibridi^'e  IJay.  whei-e  he  spent 
!ii>!  second  winter  (1<S-'j2- '>:>).      llissled^'e  parties  explored  the 


^ide  of  Vietoria   Strait,  but   a  delicieiicv  of  c( 


lais  coiu- 


'."  Ilil'c,. 


I'.'lar 


Js1;\ik1- 


liiiii  to  return  the  way  he  came,  insteail  of  alteiuptine- 

a  passa<i,"0  throne-h  the  cdiannel.      lie  did  not.  however, 

round  Barrow  Pt>int  on   his   return,   ^vifhout    [»assing' a 

I'll  ^\iiiter  on  the  northern  coasl  of  America. 

'i!  returnino-  to  the  '  Pesohite  "  Lieutenant  .Meeham  found 

liauds  busy  pi'eparinu'  to  leave  the  ship.   Sir  P.  Delcher 


418 


THE   roLAIt   uoinj). 


liiiviiif^'  j^'ivcii  <»i'Jevs  to  abaiidon  Irt  iis  well  as  tliu  '  Assistance.' 
'  Pioneer,'  and  '  Intrepid,'  which  had  now  been  blocked  ii|t 
a1)ove  a  year  in  the  ice,  and  had  no  chance  of  escapin{.>-. 

Thus  the  siininior  of  18.")  i  "witnessed  the  return  to  En-^lanil 
of  the  '  North  Star,'  with  all  those  brave  crews  which  had  sjn'iit 
so  many  unavailino-  etfurts,  and  in  nunierons  boat  and  slcijov 
excursions  had  explored  so  many  known  and  uidcnown  coasts 
in  search  of  Franklin  ;  and  thus  also  jNE'Clure  and  his  comradcsi, 
abandoning"  the  '  Investig^ator  '  in  Mercy  Bay,  returned  Iiuihl' 
tlirou<4-h  Davis'  Straits,  after  having  entered  the  Polar  Occnn 
at  the  Strait  of  Belirini>-.     He  had,  however,  been  precedcil 
by  Lieutenant  Cress  well  and  Mr.  Wynniat,  who,  on  an  exciii'- 
sion  to  Beecliey  Island  in  the  summer  of  I808,  had  tlu'rr  iiiri 
with  and  joined  the  '  Phcenix,'  ('ai>taiu  IniLflefield,  who,  ar- 
companied  by  hi^  friend  Lieutenant  Bellut,  had  conveyed  \av- 
visiojis  to  Sir  L.  >     Icher's  squadron  and  was  about  to  returii 
to   Eno'land.     During-  this  expedition  JJellot,    whose    many 
excellent  qualities  had  made  him  a  universal  favourite,  wa- 
mifortunately  drowned  by  a  fall  into  an  ice-crevice  duriiiL;'  a 
sledg'c  excursion.     A  stone  monument  erected  before  (iiTtii- 
wich   Hospital    reminds    Eng'lan<l    of  the   <j^allant  volmitcci 
whose  name  is  g-loriously  linked   with  tliat  of   Franklin  in 
Arctic  history. 

Years  had  thus  passed  without  bringing  any  tidin<;S  d 
the  '  Erebus '  and  '  Terror  '  since  the  discovery  of  their  iirsi 
winter-quarters,  until  at  last,  in  the  spring  of  1851-,  Dr.  luu. 
of  the  Jludson's  Bay  Conqtany,  while  engaged  in  tlu'  -unrv 
oi'  the  Boothian  isthmus,  tell  in  with  a  party  of  Esquiiiiiiin. 
who  informed  lum  that  in  the  s[iring  of  1850  some  d  linn 
countrymen  on  King  William's  Island  had  seen  a  party  ii 
white  men  makini>;  their  way  to  the  mainland.  Nunc  "t 
tlu'Ui  could  speak  the  Esquimaux  language  intelligibly,  Imt 
by  signs  they  gave  them  to  understand  that  their  slii]i>  Inil 
been  crushed  by  ice,  and  that  they  were  now  going  to  wluit 
they  expected  to  iind  deer  to  shoot.  At  a  later  date  ( >f  the  saiuv 
season,  but  before  tlie  In-eaking  u[)  of  the  ice,  the  bodies  "t 
some  thirty  men  were  discovered  on  the  contiu'iit  a  da v  ^ 
jom-ney  from  Back's  (Jreat  Fish  River,  and  live  on  an  islainl 
near  it.  Some  of  thel)odies  had  been  buried  ([trobabjy  ilie^ 
of  the    first    victims  cf  linnine)    some   wcic   in  a  tent,  ctlicr- 


Tin:  sKAuni  i\  tiir  '  fox.' 


41f» 


<•  Assist-.uuM'.' 
u  bloelcLHl  up 

■11  to  En^i.inil 
liicU  luid  ^peut 

oat  and  sli^iV^i' 
nkuowii  ciiUfits 

rt.'turuucl  home 
iie  Polur  Ocean 
been  prtKHnLa 
o,  on  an  exeiir- 
,  liad  tlierr  nut 
Lolieia,  wlio,  ar- 
a  conveyed  vtv- 
iibont  to  rennii 
t.    whose   many 
J  i'avi>nritt\  \va> 
crevice  duvin-i  n 
^•d  before  (Ivtvn- 
k-allant  vohuitiW 
of    Fraiddiii  iu 

•my  tiainus  -t 
ery  of  their  !u'^' 
|n8r.l.  Dr.  I'ar. 
L'd  inthr    uvvry 
[v  of  r.^ciuuuauN. 
1,0   si.nu-  «'f  tli.iv 

seen  a  party  ''t 

dand.       N""*'  "' 

iulrlH-lhly.  ^"" 

Ibrir  ships  U'"^ 

^.  o-uin-  to  \vhovr 
,lalo(.fthosan. 

|v.  the  h.Hli.'^-i 
l-ontiu'id  a.la\- 
ifuv  on  an  i>laua 
|l  ^probably  il'«- 
i„  a  1rnt,HUior> 


niiili'v  tlie  boat  which  liad  been  turned  over  to  form  a  shelte)', 
;iii(l  several  lay  scattered  about  in  uifferent  directions.  Of 
ihdse  found  on  the  island,  one  was  supposed  to  have  been 
;m  officer,  as  he  had  a  telescope  strapped  over  his  shoulder 
ami  his  double-barrelled  <4un  lay  underneath  him.  The 
mutilated  condition  of  several  of  the  corpses,  and  the  ccmtents 
(if  the  Icettles,  left  no  doubt  that  our  wretched  countrymen 
liad  been  driven  to  the  last  resource  of  eannibalism,  as  a 
means  of  prolouf^in;^  existence.  Scnne  silver  spoons  and  forks, 
a  round  silver  plate,  enn-raved  'Sir  John  Franklin,  K.C.li.,' 
a  star  or  order,  with  the  motto,  '  Nee  aspera  terrent,'  which 
Dr.  Kae  purchased  of  the  Escpiimaux,  corroborated  the  truth 
(if  their  narrative. 

Tims  it  was  now  known  how  part  of  the  unfortunate 
mariners  had  perished,  but  the  fate  of  the  expedition  was 
still  enveloped  in  mystery.  What  had  become  of  the  shij>s 
ami  of  the  greater  part  of  their  ere w"s  "P  And  was  Franklin 
uiie  of  the  party  seen  by  the  IJsquimaux,  or  had  an  earlii.'r 
Juatli  shortened  his  sufferings '? 

To  solve  at  least  this  mour]iful  secret — for  every  hope  that 
111'  might  still  be  alive  had  long  since  vanished — his  noble 
widow  resolved  to  spend  all  her  availal)Ie  meau!- —since 
•  I'lvermnent  would  no  longer  prosecute  the  search— and 
'.vitli  the  assistance  of  her  friends,  but  mostlv  at  her  own  e\- 
}'i'iise,  fitted  out  a  small  screw  steamer,  the  '  Fox:,'  which  the 
iallaut  M'Olintock,  already  distinguished  in  ])erilous  Polar 
Voyages,  volunteered  to  conniiaiid.  Anotln-r  Arctic  otHcer, 
Lieuteiumt  Hobson,  likewise  came  forward  to  serve  withcut 
pay. 

Vt  fu'st  it  seemed  as  if  all  the  elements  had  oonspirtHl 
ii^ainst  the  success  of  this  w<.»rk  of  pi<'ty,  for  in  the  summer 
"f  l>!o7  the  floating  ice  off  INIelvillu  I>ay,  on  the  c<»ast  ol' 
'•I'M  nland,  seized  the  '  Fox,'  and  after  a  dreary  winter,  various 
'larrow  escapes,  and  eight  months  of  impi'isonment,  can'i<'d 
Vr  1n, ok  nearly  J, 200  geographical  miles,  even  to  G:3^.°  N.  hit. 
iiillie  Atlantic. 

At  length,  on  Apr'.l  "J"),  ls5H,  tla.'  'Fox'  got  iVer.  and 
ii;iviii'^'  availed  Ik  vself  of  the  scanty  stoj-os  ami  |H'M\isiiiiis 
wliii-li  the  small  Danish  settlement  ol'  1 1 (.Istenburg  afforded. 
'il''d  iiitn  IJarrow   Strait.      I''iii<liiig    Franklin   ('hrttt«>(d  oly- 

1, 1  J 


420 


rill-;  I'oLAi:  \\<)Ui,i». 


stnict(.'(I  with  ii'c,  she  tlicii  (iii'iicd  1)iirl<.  and  sii'iiinin^'  iiii 
Pi'in('(>  Ito;4'(Mit  Inlet,  iirrivi'd  111  tlic  f;isli'ni  djiciiiii^-  nt'  Bi'Mur., 
Strait.  Here  tli"  j)ass!i^'o  to  tlic  west  was  a^'aiii  tuiiini 
blocked  with  ice,  and  after  live  iiietiiecf  iial  atteiu})ts  to  jiiiss. 
tlie  '  Fox  '  at  len^'th  took  nj)  hd-  wiiiter-(|narters  in  ]\,\i 
Keiinedv,  on  tlie  noi'theiMi  side  of  the  strait. 

On  his  fii'st  sjedo'c  oxciirision  in  the  folhtwinj^'  spriii^j'. 
IM'Clintock  met,  at  Ca})e  Victoria,  on  the  south-west  co;ist  ><( 
Bootliia.  witli  a  party  of  I']s(|uinian\,  wlii>  informed  liini  tliiii 
some  yeai's  Jtacdc  a  lai'L;'<'  slii])  liad  I)e<'n  ernshecl  h_v  llie  irr 
out  in  the  sea  to  tlie  west  of  Kin;^'  William's  fsland,  hut  tlm; 
all  the  |>eo[iIe  landed  safely. 

MeetiuLi'  with  the  same  l']s(juimaux  on  A]»ril  2<>.  he  leni'iicil, 
after  nuich  anxioiis  in([uir_v.  thai  besides  the  ship  whicli  hail 
been  seen  to  sink  in  deep  water,  a  second  one  had  been  thrcol 
on  shore  Ii_v  the  iee,  where  they  snpposeil  il  still  reniaiiit.MJ. 
but  muidi  brnken.  They  added  that  it  was  in  the  fall  nf 
the  year  tliat  is.  Au|4Ust  or  Se[ttend)ei'  when  the  >lii]i> 
were  destroyed;  that  all  ihe  wliit<'  j»enple  went  away  I" 
the  (iriMt  h'ish  K'iver,  takin;^'  a  boat  <ir  Ixiats  with  tliciii. 
and  that  in  the  following;'  winter  tlieii-  I)ones  were  IwiuhI 
there. 

Tliese  first  indications  of  the  late  of  i'ranklin's  exjx'diticii 
were  soon  follmved  by  others.  On  ]\lay  7,  iM'Clintork'  luai'il 
from  an  old  FiS(]uiinaux  woman  on  Kin^"  AVilliaufs  Ishniil. 
that  many  of  the  white  men  <lro]iped  by  the  way  as  tin; 
went  to  the  <  «reat  Kivei' ;  that  some  were  buried,  and  miiih' 
were  not.  The\'  <lid  not  themselves  witness  this,  but  ili>- 
covered  their  hi  (dies  dui'iu^'  the  winter  folic. win^'. 

Visitinu'  the  ,-hoi'e  alon^^'  whiidi  0'"  ret  rent  ini^' c-re\\>  imi-! 
ha\'e  marched,  he  came,  shortly  after  midniLiht  of  ^lay  -■'■ 
when  slowly  walkiuu'  alon^'  a  ^-ravel  rid^'e  near  tlie  heiii'l . 
\vhi(di  the  winds  kept  partially  bare  of  sn<iw,  u[)on  a  liiiiii:i 
skeleton,  jiarlly  exposed,  with  here  and  there  a  tew  I'iml;iii''1i!" 
of  clothinu'  appi'arin<4'  throunh  the  snow. 

'  A  most  c;ii'('fnl  evaminatiou  (d'the  spot,'  says  ]\j"( 'liiitci  k. 
'was  (if  (•()urse  made,  the  snow  reinoved,  ami  ever_\  sen:]! ' ' 
clolhine- o'.ithered  u[).  A.  pocket-book,  which  be iii^' fro/en  Iiai''' 
CI  uld  U'-t  1)0  examined  on  the  spot,  afforded  strong-  ^'niuini^ 
for  hope  Iha.t  some   inloimatioji  miu;ht    be  .subseipieiitly  '■'- 


FATK    OF    I'iiANKLIX    AND    HIS    (  ( ».M  I'AN  !<  ).\' 


4-Jl 


{(>ainin<_:'    up 

ii'^'uiii    i'owiiil 

I'ters  in  I'uvt 

wiu^'    syiriii.;'. 

luctl  lii'ii  tli;:t 
i>(l  ]>y  ill*'  ill' 
laud,  lail  tlia: 

20.  he  It'anir'l. 
Iiip  wliicli  liai! 
ad  been  fuicr-l 
dill  reinaiiu'l. 
in   tlu'   fall  "( 
\iv\\    i1h'  >liil'^ 
wt'id    away  1" 
Is  with    tli''ii'- 

iii"s  rx]i('ditinn 
lciin1<H-k  li''iiv<l 
Uiaurs  Ishiml. 
i,>  way  as  tiicy 
Iri.Ml,  and  soiiir 
tins.   l>iit  'ii^- 

|im'  ri'i'ws  nuM 

Iht   of  Mii.v  -■'• 
,.,,.  til,.  ImmMi. 

upcii  a  linmaii 
1',>w  iVaL^-iui'Ut- 

vs.M-rliii^'"''^' 
Vvi-n  scVi'.V' 
lino'lVo/riili'i'' 

|,<r([iu'iiily  ■•' 


t, lined  rfsju'ctiii;.^'  llii.' ('V>  uer,  ami  tln'  niaridi  (d'llic  lusl  citws. 
Til''  vi(diiii  was  a  voiniLi'  maiu  ^liulitlv  l>nilt,  aial  jn'rliaii.s 
;iliii\('  ill"  (•(iiiiimiii  lud'_;lif  :  llf  divss  aiijicarrd  ti>  ln'  that 
uf  a  st('\vav<l.  Till'  jxkh'  man  mtius  to  liavc  s(di'c1i'd  tin' 
I'lii'i'  ridii'e  loj>,  as  altVll•dill^•  tlu'  least  tii'esoiiie  walkiiiL;',  a!nl. 
Ill   have    i'allen   ii|ii»n   liis    lace   in   the   pusitiiHL    in    wliiidi   we 


luum 


1  hini.      It  was  a  niehnndioly  1  nit  h  that    the   (dd  wmiian 
when    slie    said.    "Iliev    tell    d(.\\ii    and    died    as    thev 


ai<e 


';\all<eu  aioUL:'. 


iiaiii  s 


.^^'anw]lile  IjienTenanI  ll<il>S(tn,  wlm  was  exjildriiiu'  with 
auetliei'  sledu;'!.'  [>arty  tin-  ii(*vth-w'esterii  Kiast  <>{'  Kiii^'  W'il- 
Land.  had  made  the  still  more  imiiortant  discovery 
lit  a  record,  L;iviiu;'  a  laconic  iiecoiint  oi'  the  i'Vaidsdiii  expedi- 
lidii  ii]>  to  the  time  when  the  shi]is  were  \<>>[  and  ahandoiied. 
Ir  was  found  on  May  <>  in  a  larj^^'o  cairn  at  I'oiid  \'ictory.  It 
>ta1i'd  hrielly,  that  in  T'^l'ithe  ■  I'irehns  "  ;ind  "  Terror  "  iiad 
'M'<'iide<l  Wellington  ('haniad  fo  lat.  77  .ani 


1  I'ef  nriied  hv  the 


t'l-Sl    Sl( 


le  of  {/orinvallis  Island  to  Heerdiev  Island,  wli'^re  tlu 


y 


^|||■ll1  tlie  first  winter.      In  Isli;  tlu'y  proceeded  to  thesouth- 
\v.>t.  throuu'li  Pe<d  Sonnd  and    l-'ranhdin  Sdimd.  and   eveidu- 


aliv  n 


a(died   within   twelve  miles   of  the  nnrlh   extremil\    of 


K'iii'j  William's  Land,  when  their  |ifo<.-]'< 


Wi 


arrested  l)y 


ill'  ice 


Sir  J(din    FrnnhTin  diod  on   .liiiie  II.  \>^[' 


liavmn* 


I'Hll!]! 


leted  -two  months  liel'ore  hisdeath      ti 
an    active,   eventfid,   and    honoui'alde   li 


le  s!xt  \-lirst  Near 


i  .).) 


le.        <  Ml     A' 


irii  -^-^ 


M-.    the    >] 


lips    were    deserted,     lia\i!iu'     heen    l)eset    si 


me 


^'■\>{.  \'2,  18I('>.  Tdie  oHicers  and  crew,  consiviiiii^-  of  Id-"* 
■«iiuls.  umh'r  tlie  command  of  Captain  ( 'I'o/ier.  landed  witli 
till'  intention    of  starting'   foi'    l>a(d<"s   I'ish   Jii\er.   which,  as 

Wi-  have  seen.  the\    were   liever  destincil  to  rciich. 

<^>iiant  it  ies  of  (dot  hiuLf,  and  ai't  iides  of  all  hiiaN.  were  found 
iil;'  ahdut  the  cairn,  as  if 


Ivi 


ne>e 


men.  a  wai'e  i  hat   t  hc\    wei'^ 


ail    tlK'ii    aiiaiK 


ivtvi  at  iiio>   for   their  lives 
wliiili  thev  considered  siipei'tha  piis. 
Tims   all    (h»nhts   alioiil     Sii'  .hilin    l''ranKlin"s   I! 


<'\ervlhnc 


lie   were    at. 


;tli  i'emo\'e(l.      lie  at  least  had  died  (.n  hoard  hi>  ship,  and 


"'I'll   snared  the   niiserahle  • 


nd  ( if  III-  '•!  'iiirai 


thev  f 


ii\  one  in  the  drear\'  wildernes- 


he  two  wreidcs  have  disappeared,  without  leaving-  a  trai 
1.      A  si  '.^'le  document,  sunie  coins  and  jiicces  of  idate- 


iiiiii 


4-22 


TIIK    ruLAU    AVORLD. 


this  is  all  that  romains  <»!'  the  ;4'allaiit  sliips  which  so  1io|m' 
fully  sailed  forth,  inuhT  one  of  the  noblest  seaineu  that  r\,  i 
served  in  the  navy  of  Great  Britain. 

It  is  a  curious  circunistauce,  that  Franklin's  sliips  perisliod 
within  sij^'htof  the  headlands  named  Cape  Franklin  an«l  (*;ipr 
Jane  Franklin,  by  their  discoverer,  Sir  Janies  Ross,  ei^lilecu 
years  before. 


I  hi-  liicat  Novth'juj  DiV'.-i. 


'1  Lc  Gieat   liiuiiLiOidt  Giaciur. 


('HAPTEi;    XXX  n  I. 

ICAXK    AM)    IlAYi:s. 

Kaiir  >;;iils  11])  Siiiitli's  Soiinil  ill  tin-  ■Advance'  (INooj — Wiiiiors  ir.  liciissi'laor 
l!av  —  Slcdgo  .lotii'iHy  aloiitr  thf  C'oa^t  of  Ciri'mland  --  TIii'  'I'iirfi'  Hrntlicr 
I'unvts— 'I'diiiy-iHi's  .'Munmiiiat — Tiio  Orrat  Iliiiiiljuldt  (ila.-irr  —  I)r.  Ifaycs 
'  i">.sf,s  Ktiiiicdy  CliiinncI — ]\[(» ton's  Discovery  of  Washinfrtoii  Land  ^tonnt 
I'ariy— Kaiio  rosolvos  upon  a  Second  AVintcrinjj;  in  I?i  iisxclacr  I!ay  I>c[iartnrc 
and  Return  of  Part  of  the  Cnw — Sufferinp';  of  tlic  Winfrr  -Tln'  Shi],  abandoned 
-  ii'iat  Jniirni'V  to  I']ici'iia  i  ik  l\anc's  Dcith  in  the  Ilavannah  (lS")7l-  I'r. 
Ihivrs'  Voyaiic  in  18(i(i — lie  winters  at  Port  Fuulke-  Crosses  Kennedy  Channel 
Heache.s  Capo  Union,  tlie  most  Nortliern  known  Land  ujion  the  (iiohu  — 
K'eldewiy-  'Phms  for  future  Voy;;ne.s  lo  tile  N'ortli  pole. 

IN  \«nui  of  driuiiatic  iiitt-n'si,  I'cw  of  tlif  AiTtie  t'\po»liliuiis 
'•an  rival  the  second  and  last  voya<4V  <>f  Dr.  Ivano,  wliii  li, 
f":i\ni(l  int»'n'uptin;4"tlif  narriitivc  of  tlie  discovery  of  Fraiil.- 
HnV  tato  In  Dr.  Rn<'  and  Sir  James  M'Clintoek,  T  liavo  rc- 
triiiiM'd  from  nieutiuninu"  in  i-lir<tnolo|j;'ica1  ordiT. 

^^'  ik  in  body,  I>ii1    u-rcaf    in  i.;ind,  this  renuirkabN'  man. 

"li"  liiid  a<H-om[tani('d  tlu'  lirst    <ivinn(l]  <'Xp"diti(tn    in    Ihf 

iijiiiiit  \  iif  snrti'fun,  N.iiI'd  lV"ni  Il-'-^ti  in.  in  I  s.'):{,iis  (•niiniDi  iidcf 


4  J  t 


•|ii:  i'(ii,Ai;  \V(»i;i,ii. 


of  t]|('  '  .\(l\;lticc/  witll  11  CI'CW  of  17  oflk'crs  !111<1  llli'll.  <()  W  liidi 

i\\<>  ( IrcciihiiKlcrs  were  .siil^.scqiU'iitly  added.  His  |>l;iii  \v;i>  i(, 
[tiiss  lip  IjiitHirs  Biiv,  tn  its  most  northern  iittainalile  iioim. 
and  tlii'Hco  pressing-  on  towards  the  Pole,  as  far  as  Ixials  di' 
sledufes  could  reach,  to  examine  the  coast-lines  for  vestiges  of 
Franklin. 

BiittUnj^-  witll  storms  and  icebi'r^'s,  he  passed,  on  Auu'nsi  7. 
185;).  the  roclcy  poi'tals  of  Smith's  Sound,  (_"ape  Isahclhi.  ;i!!,| 
C.^ape  Alexander,  which  had  been  discovered  the  year  lict',ir,. 
hy  Inu'lelield  ;  h'f't  ( "a[)e  }[atlierton — the  exti'enn'  [»oiiit  ;it- 
tained  hy  tliat  navij^'ator — -behind,  and  after  nniny  n;in'(i\v 
esca[»es  from  shipwreck,  secured  the  'Advance'  in  Jiensschirr 
Hay,  from  which  she  was  destined  never  to  emei';^'c.  Ili- 
diary  leaves  us  a,  vivid  account  of  the  lirst  winter  he  spent  i;i 
tliis  haven,  in  lat.  78°  ;>H',  abnost  as  far  to  the  north  as  tli- 
most  northern  extremity  of  Spitzber«^'en,  and  in  a  far  inoiv 
ri^'oi'ons  climate. 

'  Sri,L  10,  +  1  r  F.—Th(^  birds  liave  left.  The  sea-swaliuu., 
whicdi  aboumleil  ulien  we  tirsi  reacheil  here,  and  even  tli'' 
younn'  bnri;dnias(crs  that  lingered  after  them.  ha\('  all  talci'ii 
their  departniv  for  th<' south.  The  lon^j,-  '*  ni^'ht  in  wliirh  n,, 
man  can  work  "  is  cdose  at  hand;  in  another  month  we  shall 
lose  the  sv.\).  Astronomically,  he  should  disappear  on  Oct.  iM. 
if  our  hori/on  v.'erc  free  ;  but  it  is  obstructed  by  a  moinitaiii 
ridp';  and,  making'  all  allowance  for  refraction,  \ve  cannut 
count  on  seeine-  him  after  the  lOth. 

■■  Sept.  11. — The  loiii;'  staring- <lay,  which  has  cIuul;'  to  ns  fnr 
more  than  two  months,  to  the  exclusion  of  the  star-^.  has  1"- 
e'un  to  internut  its  l>rie-htness.  Even  Aldebaran,  the  ivd  cw 
of  the  l)ull,  tiare(l  out  into  familiar  recollection  as  eai'ly  ;;- 
lo  o'(do(dc  :  and  the  hea\  ens.  th(»ue'h  still  somewhat  redileiii'l 
by  the  Liaudy  tints  of  midnie'ht,  p^ave  us  Capelh.  and  Arct inl- 
and even  that  lesser  lig'ht  of  home  mennu-ies,  the  Polar  stai. 
Stretching-  my  neck  t(»  look  uncomfortably  at  the  indi(ali"ii 
of  our  extreme  nortliernness.  it  was  hard  to  I'eali.-e  tluif 
he  was  not  <lirectly  overhead:  and  it  made  me  sigh.  a.s  I 
measured  f'e  hw  degrees  of  distam;e  that  separated  our 
zenith  from  1  he  Pule  over  which  he  hung. 

'•Itct.  28.      The    moon   has   reatdieil  her  greatest  novtli'i 
declination  of  i'lout  '2-<    •!•'>'.      She  is  a  e-lorious  object  :  swcfp- 


'Illi:    I'di.Ai;    \|(;||T 


-»■}.' 


icii.  1<i  wliuli 
s  phiii  \v;i>  1(1 
liuablo  j>niiit. 
L'  as  1t()a1>  i'V 

,  on  Au<4•^^l  7. 

Isa1)''lla.  aii'l 
e  yoar  liff.iiv 
Miu'  [xi'nit   iit- 

inaiiy  uarrnv 

ill   llOllSS.'l;!"-! 

,>v  l\r  si^Mit  i:i 
e  iioi'lli  ii>^  ^^' 
in  a.  lav  wr 

esea-sNvall"\\~. 

have  all  talcm 
lit  in  ^vlli<•ll  im 
inoutli  Avc  sli;i!l 


tear  <»ii 


Oct. 


\)X  a  lunnutiuii 
ion.  wo  cani)"! 


•luu'^'  !•'  !!■ 


OVt 


avlv 


au. 
lion  as  I 


■wliat  vc.l.i''nr' 
i.  inulArctnvr.- 
tlu'  Polar  -^ta' 


inr    si; 

st'ttara 


rh.  a.  1 


iiiu'  ardUinl  tin'  liravciis.  at  i  lir  lowest  [lait  « •(' iicr  (•iii'\  c,  >liti 
i-;  still  1  !•  alinvo  the  linri/dii,  Kor  ciLi'lit  days  slir  lias  lifcii 
iii;ikiii'_;'  JH'i- ciriMiit  witii  nearly  uiivaryiiiLi"  l>ri^lit iicss.  It  is 
(iin-  (>{'  those  s[(arklin'_;'  iii^lits  that  briii;^,'  hack  the  iiieiiKirv  nl' 
slri'^li-hells  and  soHLi's.  and  '_;lad  cnniuiunin^is  of  hearts  in 
l;i,ids  t  hat  are  f'ai'  awa  v. 


i'"'.   I 


Tl 


le  UarloM'ss   s  coininti'  on  witli  insidions  sleaili- 


lie 


and  its  adsan 


(•( 


s  can   only   he  iiereei\ed   hy  (•onl|lal■illL;• 


^lM■  < 


lay  with  its  fellow  o!"  >oni''  time  hark.  We  still  ivad 
tlie  thermometer  at  nnonday  witliont  a  liuht,  and  the  hhndc 
masses  of  tln'  hills  are  ]ilain  for  ahout  live  limirs.  with  tlieii- 
uiai-iiiL.':  jiatehes  of  snow  ;  hnt  all  tlie  rest  is  darkness.  The 
^tai's  of  the  sixth  niaLi'nitnde  sliiiie  out  at  iioondav.  I''.\ce[,t 
tijMin  the   island  of  Si)itzberL;'en,  whi(di   has   the  advanta^t'es 


!>!   a 


n    insular   (dimate.  iind  tempered   hy   ocean  currents,   i 


i(» 


Christians  have  wintered  in  so  luLi'h  a  latitude  as  this."'-  'l'he_\ 
are  I^ussiun  sailors  wliu  maih'  the  eiiconntcr  there  -men 
iiiurecl  to  liardsliins  and  <-i.|d.  <  >nr  dai'kiH  ss  has  niiietv  tiavs 
tn  run  before  ^Ye  sliall  ^^t  liack  aiiain  even  to  the  contested 
twilie'lit  of  to-day.  Altou'ctlier  our  \Vinter  ^vill  hav<'  been 
sunless  for  one  hundred  and  forty  days. 

•  Xnf.  !). — Wishine"  to  e;,.(   the  allitU(h'  nf  the   clitfs  on  the 
Miuth-west    cane    of    our    bav    before    tlie    darkness     set    in 


Ik  a 


oiio'ldv.    I  started  in  tinu.'  to  reacdi  them  with  my  X 


eW' 


t'l'Uiidlanders    at   noonday,   the  tliermiiuietcr    indicating'   '2- 
I'clew   zero.       Fireside   astron(uners  can    liardlv   realise   th 


111 


ili<-ulties  in  the  way  of  oliservations  at  sucdi  low  tcnipci'a- 
tinvs.  The  breatb,  and  eveu  tlie  Avarmth  of  the  face  and 
linily,  eloud  tlie  sextaut-arc  and  ^lasses  w  ith  a  hue  hoar  iVdst. 
It  is.  iiKjreover.  an  unusual  feat  to  measure  a  base  line  in  tl 


le 


•;iiii\v 


at  •')-')°  below  free/.iiiL;". 


\(ir,    21. — We    have   S(d!e!iics    iniiumeraiue    t<i   i-hca(    (juj 


uniiHitoiious  solitude   of  our   winter     a    fan<'v   liall:   a    i 


lews- 


ibe  indicali"''    |      lui])!'!'.  "The  Ice  JUiuk  :""  a  fox  (diase  Tdiiiid  th  •  dt 
Ito    real!-'  tluit 


nUl'  lliHlila  V 


Id; 


/'"•.  l-").--AVe    lia\o    lost   the  last  veslie'e'  of 
ili'jht.     A\'e  eannot  see  |>rint.  ami  hardly  paper:   the  tine'ers 
eaiiiiet   lie  counted  a  foot  from  the  e\es.      Neomlav  and  mid- 


Uv 


itest  north'!'' 
,,bicct  :  s\vc»'V- 


*  lii'r.'Siliifv  Hiivt'our  is   s'tuatiHl  1°  UV  Ii';z1k'1'  than  Sir  I-].  Ilc!i-lni'<  \vi\iti.".'' 
11'.  '.'s  ill  N.)i'tliuiul:i.rhii!>l  Smiiii'I.  ~I','>  -JL'', 


SSSSS19Bi" 


426 


rilK    IN»I,AU    UmKI.D. 


ni^'lit  arc  alike  ;  and  i'Xc<'|>l  a  vaiiur  ^-liimiicr  in  IIh'  >k\  ilmi 
seoins  to  ilcliiK'  tlu'  hill  outlines  to  <Ih.'  soutli,  we  liavr  untliin^ 
to  It'll  us:  that  this  Arctic  world  of  ours  has  a  sun.  In  ihr 
tlnrkni'ss,  and  consequent  inaction,  it  is  almost  in  vain  lliat 
\vc  seek  to  crcat<'  t<^pics  ol:'  tlioun'ht,  and,  I»_y  a  I'oj-ecd  cxciti'- 
mcnt,  to  ward  olf  the  encroachments  of  disease. 

SAn/.  21. — First  traces  t)t' returning  li;;'ht,  th<'  soulheni 
horizon  havinnfor  a  short  time  a  distinct  orange  tinge. 

^  Feb.  21. — We  have  had  the  sun  for  some  days,  silverin;^ 
the  ice  between  the  headlands  of  the  bay  ;  and  to-day,  towards 
noon,  1  started  out  to  be  the  first  of  my  party  to  wehonir 
him  back,  ft  was  the  longest  walk  and  touLi-hest  clind)  that 
1  have  had  since  onr  imprisonment  ;  and  scurvy  and  geneial 
debility  have  made  me  "  short  o'  wind."  But  f  managed  tn 
attain  my  object.  I  saw  him  once  more,  and  upon  a  [nn- 
jecting  crag  nestled  in  the  sunshine.  It  was  like  bathing'  in 
perfumed  water.' 

Thus  this  terrible  winter  night  drew  to  its  end.  and  iIp 
time  came  for  undertaking  the  sledge  journeys,  on  whii  !i 
the  success  of  the  ex]>edition  mainly  depended.  Untnitii- 
nately,  of  the  nine  magnificent  Newfoundlanders,  and  'li- 
thirty-Hvi'  Esquimaux  dogs  originally  possessed  oy  Kane 
only  six  had  survive<l  an  epi/ootie  malady  whi(di  raged  niiieiiL: 
them  during  the  winter;  their  number  was,  however,  in- 
creased by  some  new  purchases  from  the  Rsquimnux  wh' 
visited  the  ship  at  the  beginning  of  April. 

Thus  scantily  provided  with  the  means  cd' transport,  Kain'. 
though  in  a  very  weak  condition,  set  out  on  April  2.").  \^'>\. 
to  force  his  way  to  the  north,  lie  found  the  Greenland  coast 
beyond  Rensselaer  Bay  extremely  picturesque,  the  cliffs  visin- 
boldly  from  the  shore  line  to  a  height  of  sometimes  iiieiv 
than  a  thousand  feet,  and  exhibiting  every  freak  and  ( a]>ri(v 
of  architectural  ruin.  In  one  spot  the  sloping  rubbish  at  tin 
foot  of  the  coast-wall  led  up,  like  an  artificial  causcAvay,  t^ 
a  gorge  that  was  streaming  at  noon-day  with  tiie  sontlnin 
sun,  while  everywhere  else  the  rock  stood  out  in  the  blackest 
shadow.  Just  at  the  edge  of  this  bright  opening,  rose  tlie 
dreamy  semblance  of  a  castle,  liaidced  with  tvi[de  towers. 
completely  isolated  and  defined.  These  were  called  the  '  Tliier 
lirotlier  Turrets." 


riii:  iiiMi;<)i,i»T  (ii,.\cii:i!. 


427 


\^>  sky  iliai 
vf  iii'tliiiii: 
n.  In  ill'' 
I   v.iiu  lliat 

l(l     SitUtlu'l'll 

vs,  silvfviiiL;' 
iiiy,  lowat'.K 

to    NVclrollli' 

i  cliiult  iliai 

llliUl!l;^'<'<l   tn 

upon  a   I'lM- 
ce  bathing-  i)i 

end,  an<l  tlf 
ys,  on   wlii'-li 
.(1.      Uu  ft 'Vt>i- 
cvs.    ami  ill' 
^(.,\   \)\    Kail''. 
rim't'il  ana '11'^ 
howcvi'V.   ir.- 
juiniaux  wli" 


'  i-'arlhcr  on,  to  the  north   of  hititndi'  7!>  ,  a  sin<_ilt'  i-litVot 
^'vccnstonc  n'ars  itsclj'  tVoni  a  cniniltli'd   Imsc  of  sandstone, 
likt' 1  he  Itoldly  cluscllcd  vinnpart  of  an  ancicnf   city.      At  its 
Hurt  In'i'ii  t'Xti't'iiiity,  at  llic  lirink  of  u  di'.-p  r;i\iiic  which   has 
wiiiii  its  Avav  anioii<j;'  the  rnins,  Ihoi'c  stands  a  sdlitary  I'oliiinii 
nv  iiiiiiarot  tower,  as  sharply  liinsht'd  as   if  it    liad  1)im'ii  cast 
Jul'  the  Placo  Vondonio.      \vt  tlio  lon^-th  of  the  shaft  alone  is 
Hn  ft,,  iiiid  it  rises  on  a  pedestal,  itself  "Jsii  t't.  liiLih.     '  1  re- 
int'inher  well  the  emotions  of  my  parly,  as  it  first  hroke  upon 
n]ir  view.     CVdd  and  siek  as  I  was,  [  hrono-ht  hack  a  sketeh 
nf  it,  which   nuiv  have   interest    for  the   reader,    thoimh    it 
>(ai'<'ely  sn^'u'ests  the  jjnposino"  dipiity  of  this  ma^^'nifHM'nt 
liimlnuirk.     Those  who  are  happily  familiar  with  the  writ  in;4s 
of  Tennyson,  and  have  eommnned  with  his  spirit  in  the  soli- 
tudes of  a   wilderness,  will   ai)itrehend  the  impnlsi*  that    in- 
sevihed  the  scene  with  his  name.' 

Hut  no  rock  formation,  however  striking'  or  impressive, 
I'lHialled  in  f^randenr  the  ma|»"nifieent  ehieier  to  which  ICane 
lias  i^'iveii  the  name  of  Humb<ddt.  Tts  solid  t;lassy  wall,  di- 
iiiiiiishino-  to  a  well-pointed  wedj^e  in  the  perspective,  rises 
:'.iii>  ft.  above  the  water  level,  with  an  nidcnown,  nnfathoni- 
alilc  depth  below  it  and  its  curved  face,  (!<•  mik.'s  in  lenL;th — 
iVuin  Cape  A<^assiz  to  Capo  F<»rbes — vanishes  irdo  nnknown 
simce  at  not  more  than  a  sin;^le  day's  railroa<l  travel  from 
the  Pole. 

Ill  spite  of  the  snow  which  had  so  aci-umulated  in  diifts 
ilial  the  travellers  were  forced  to  unload  their  sledLfes  ami 
'■avrv  forward  th(^  cary-o  on  their  backs,  beat  in  jj;- a  [>atli  fi>r 
till' iloo-s  to  follow  in,  Kane  came  within  si^'ht  of  the  Creat 
tllarier  on  May  1- ;  l)ut  this  ])ro^Tess  was  dearly  earned,  as  if 
'■'•St  liim  the  last  remnant  of  his  strenij;-tli. 

'  1  was  seized  with  a  sudden  pain,'  says  the  intrepid  ex- 
I'l'iivv,  '  and  fainted.  My  limbs  became  ri^-id,  and  certain 
"Itsrure  tetanoid  sympt(»ms  of  our  Avinter  enemy,  the  scurvy, 
'lisciused  themselves.  I  was  strapped  upon  the  slediii,'e,  and 
till'  march  continued  as  usual,  but  my  })owers  diminished  so 
nipidly  that  I  could  not  resist  the  <»tlierwise  comfortable 
temperature  of  5^  below  zero.  My  left  foot  becomine-  frozen 
caused  a  vexatious  delay,  and  the  same  nii^'ht  it  became 
''^i'l'iit   that  the  imniovaliility  of  my  limbs  was  due  to  (b'op- 


4-2H 


Tin;  I'oi.Au  \\(»i:i,i). 


siriil  cll'iisiiiii.      <  >ii    tin-  -M li.  l)fc()iiiiii'4  <Ii'lii'l<iiis  iiiitl  I'iiiii'inj 

CVCI'V    lillM'illilt      I     \V;lS     lilki'll     IVolll     lln'     trill     i  O   1  1 II '   sIt  ■(  1  l;( '.    | 

siicciiiiil)('(l   flit  ii'cl  V.      My   ('<)iiirii(lt's   would    Uiiidlv   ]m'1'sii;ii|c 
Iiic  tliiit,  cvt'll   li;iil    I  cdlit  illlM'il  sollliil,  we  coiiM   net    lliivc  \)V\>- 


(■('I'di'd   on   oiir    )(iiini('y 


'11 


H'     SHOWS 


Wi'I'l.'      \lTV     lli';i\\      illlil 


iiHTriisiii^'    ;is    we    went;    some    ol'  the   drills    pcrrfcl  l_v  iiii- 


d  1 


11. 


|>llSSillMl',    illlU    UK'    li'Vl'l    lllX'S   (> 
MloW, 


•I'tcii  luiir  I'ct't   drrp  ill  yii'ldiij 


'Tlir  sfurvv  li:i<l  iiirciidy  hrokcii  out  iniiono'  tlic  uicn.  with 
Syillploiiis  like  liiy  own,  :illd  Moi'toli.  ollf  sl  r(»li;j,'('st  lli;ili.  \\;i> 
l)oy'inniii<4'  to  i^ivc  Wiiy.  It  is  Ilic  rcvci'sf  (d'  conitort  to  m.' 
that  tlicv  sliai'cd  iiiv  \vc:il<iifs." 


\v 


All  thai   I  should  roiin'iiiliiT 
:ith    pifisiii'aldi'   I'cidiuL;"    is    that    1o    my   hravi'   couiiiaiiiiiii-. 
thciuschcs  scarcely  ahlc  to  travel,  1  owe  my  |ireservatioii, 

'  They  carried  iiie  hacdc  l»y  ioived  jiiarclies.  I  Avas  takm 
into  the  \)v\<^  (tii  the  1  Ith,  where  for  a  week  I  lay  liuctuiitiiiu' 
between  life  and  deatli.  J)r.  Hayes  l•e^•ards  my  attack 
one  of  scurvy  complicated  by  typhoid  fever.' 

Fortunately  suuuiier    was   now  last   a[>i)roa(diiii;4'  wi 


a> 


th  !ii> 


(du'ci'iiiu'    sunbeams    and    his    u'cuial     warmth. 


Th 


U'Vr 


be<4'an  lo  appear  (»ii  Ihi.'  coast  in  larj^'e  nnnib(.'rs.  and  i 
was  now  no  want  (»t'  IVesh  meat,  the  cliiel'  pauacc.-a  a'iain.-t 
the  scurvy.  The  siiow-lnuitinj^'s  returne<l  to  the  ice-crustrij 
rocks;  and  tlie  n'ulls  and  eider  ducks  came  winiiinjj'  thei 


r  Wiiv 


t(»  tl 


leir  nor 


ther 


u  l)ree( 


liii;^'-p1i 


ices- 


A'^eu'etation  likewise  sjjraiii^'  into  lih'  with  mai'\i'll"ii^ 
rapidity,  and  the  «i'reeu  slopinjj;-  banks  not  <»iily  rerrcshcJ 
the  eye,  but  yielded  juicy,  anti-scorbutic  herbs. 

Kane's  health  slowly  but  steadily  iui}»roved.  lie  \v:is. 
however,  obliyvd  to  i^'ive  up  all  I'urthev  sled'_i'e  excursions  \'ov 
the  season,  ami  to  leave  the  ext^i-iitioii  of  his  plans  \i<  hi- 
n!(»re  able-bodied  companions. 

Thus  Dr.  Hayes,  crossing-  iho  sound  in  a  north-easlt'ily 
direction,  reached  the  opposite  coast  of  Grinnell  Laud. 


Wliirll 


he  surveyed  as  far  as  Cape 


Cane  Frazer  in  lat.  70°  15' 


Tl 


lis  journey  was  i 


euih^rod  unconnnonly  slow  and  tedious 


by  the  excessivcdy  brcdcen  and  ruo-L^'ed  character  of  tlif  ic. 
JJeou  cavities  tilled  with  snow   intervened  between   lines  <.■! 


1 


iummo{ 


ks    f 


requc 


ntlv 


excel 


'dinu' 


tw(Mitv   or    thirty   feiT  m 


lieitdit.      Over  these   the   sle.b>'e  hud    lo   be   lifte.l   by   iii:in 


Mid.NT    I'AKKI 


4'IU 


IP    lllfll,   Wlill 

'si  man.  \mi- 

)lllt'<»rt    tn  111.' 

Id  vciiu'iiiImt 
ciiiipiinii'ii-. 
■M'VV.ilii'ii. 

1  was  t;il<iii 
y  tluctnaliuu' 


^ti'''iiu'l  li.  iiiiil  it  rt'ipiiiT'l  tlir  iiiot  |iaiiitnl  fllui't>  of  llic 
\vli"l<'  pai'ty  to  lil> 'iMtc  it  IVdiii  tin-  sikiw  lirt  w.'cn  tliiMii.  I)r. 
Iliycs  rt'tnnH'(l  on  .hnn"  I.  ami  a  \'r\\  ijays  latiT  Mniinti  Id't 
t!i  ■  liri^'  tn  siii'Vc\  the  <  1  rci'iilaihl  (mimsI  IicnuikI  tlii'  (Ircat 
liliiciiT.     Till'  •linicultics   s\(  ri'  '■rcat.  \\>\\    1m. sides  tin'   iisiuil 


n;i|M.i 


liinciit 


S    ol     llUIIIIII'ic 


til 


.1    tl 


I'   iiiti'iii'>s  (ti    nil'    si'asnii    iiaii 


Uir 


.iVt 


;i  many  jilaccs  i^cndcr-'d  tin'  |ii'  r\1  ri'incly  nn.-^al'c.  i>i'  cscn 
iitii'i'ly  dcst  r(i_\«'d  llic  ii'(.-|. 'd^c  aloip^'llif  ^]ll(l^'.  Tims  i'wr 
last  days  ot"  his  onwai'd  jdnrncy.  lu'  was  (ililitird  tntuil 
r  tilt'  rocks  and  alon^i'  tlic  Itcaidi  oj'  ;i  s^a  wliii  li,  like  the 
i'liniliai'  watt  I's  of  llic  sontli,  <laslii'd  in  waves  iil  liis  jeet. 
Mi.rloii  mid  his  eoin[ianion  Hans,  the  i;s(|iiimaii\',  I'eaehed 
..,1  .1  inie  :j(l,  I  S.')  I.  (';|j)|.  ( 'oust  it  III  ioii.  a  l>old  headland,  where 
ih"  surf  rolled  furiously  a^'ainsi  hi'^h  overliane'in^'  elilVs, 
uhieli  if  was  found  ini|Missil)|e  to  pus,-:.  ( 'liniliiiiLi-  from  roek 
1.1  I'oelc,  in  hopes  of  (li>iii»linu'  t  he  pronioiiforv,  Morion  stood 
,;l  lliis  teriiiinat  ion  of  his  Journey,  and  from  a  hein-|it  (,f  .".iio 
I'.'i'l  loolvcd  out    upon  a    e'vent  waste  of  waiei's,  strelehin^'  to 


ilii'  unknown   nur 


u;ii;e 


th.      l\ 


iinu'rons 


l)ird.> 


'ca-sw 


allows,  kitti- 


hrt'nt-e'('ese — mixed  their  discordant  notes  with  the 
iiiivrl  music  of  dashiuij;'  waves  ;  and  anionu;'  t  he  iloweriuL;'  plants 
uri'wiiiL;"  on  the  rocks,  was  t'onnd  a  criicifer  ( llesjiei-is  pyL-niicn), 
til.' dried  pods  of  which,  still  coiitainiiiLi'  >c{'i\,  hiui  snrvivccl 
till'  wear  and  tear  of  winter.  l*'rom  Cape  C'onstitntion  the 
'■'•;ist  of  Wiisliin;4'ton  Lanil  trended  to  the  east,  hut  fur  to  the 
ii'irlli-west,  lieyond  the  open  waters  of  the  channel,  a  [lenk. 
iii'iiiinatini;' a  ranL;'e  of  mountains  similar  in  their  features  to 
if  S[)itzber;^"cn.  was  seen  towering;'  to  a  iiein'ht  of  tVoni 


tlHKe   ( 


'I'  to   ;!.()(»(►  feet.      'Jl 


lis 


peak.   1  he    most    remote  nort 


lel'll 


liiiid  at  that   time  known  ujiou  our  LAlobe.  received  the  i:;im«' 
"f  Mount  Pari-y. 

^[caiiwhile  the  short    summer  was    weai'ini^'  on,  and,  as  far 
as  the   eve   could    ri.'aeh.  the    ice    remained    inlh'xihlv   solid. 


ft 


evident    that    manv    davs    must    ^■till    eh 


pse     he! 


ore 


tile  \essel  coidd  itossihlv  he  liljeratrd  Inil  then  most  likclv 
>viiitcr  v.-ould  almost  have  retuiiied  a  dismal  prtispect  l(  r 
'!i''U  who  kin'w  hv  e\[ierienci   the  loii^-  fearful  ni^ht  of  the  7'.'^ 


liit!tu«le,  and  \vlio.  hrokeii  in  h.'alth   and  with  v 


er\'  insii 


th- 


'ii;  supplies  of  provisions  and  fuel,  wei'e  hut  ill  armed  Ibru 


111  encounter.      >S"o  w(>nder   that    manv  of  Ka 


m.  ,~   com- 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


iU  JlIM 
m  |||||22 

2.0 

lllllii 
1.4    IIIIII.6 


% 


<^ 


/}. 


/y 


'a 


e. 


c^l 


J^^ 


m  ^% 


<$> 


'#_■'>;' 


% 


O 


7 


/a 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


« 


\§ 


,\ 


<v 


\\ 


o^ 


73  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY    14S80 

(716)  872-4503 


V 


Or, 


<\ 


;\ 


430 


THE    rOLAU   WORLD. 


panioiis  ilum^'lit  it  better  to  jiljan<lon  the  vessel  than  to  tari'v 
any  longer  in  those  frozen  s<tlitiule8. 

But  IhoUH^h  it  was  horrible  to  look  another  winter  in  the 
face,  the  ivsohition  of  Kane  conld  not  be  shaken.  On 
Au^ist  24,  when  the  last  hope  of  seeiiifj  the  vessel  once  more 
afloat  had  vanished,  he  called  the  olKcers  and  crew  to;,'<liicr, 
aind  explained  to  them  frankly  the  considerations  which 
determined  him  to  remain.  To  abandon  the  vessel  earlier 
would  have  been  iniseemly,  and  to  reach  Upornavik  so  latf 
in  the  season  was  next  to  imimssible.  To  such  of  them, 
however,  as  were  desirous  of  making  the  attempt,  he  freely 
j^ave  his  j)ermi8sion  so  to  do,  assuring  them  of  a  brother's 
welcome  should  they  be  driven  baek.  lie  then  directed  the 
roll  to  be  called,  and  each  man  to  answer  for  himself.  In  re- 
sult ei^ht  out  of  the  seventeen  survivors  of  the  party  resolvi'd 
to  stand  by  the  brig.  The  others  lef^  on  the  2Sth,  wilh 
every  appliance  which  the  narrow  circumstances  of  the  bri<,f 
could  furnish  to  speed  and  guard  them.  When  they  dis- 
appeared among  the  hummocks,  the  stern  n'alities  of  tlu-ir 
condition  pressed  themselves  with  double  force  on  th(»s(- 
whom  they  left  behind. 

The  iv  duced  numbers  of  the  party,  the  helplessness  (tf 
many,  the  waning  efficiency  of  all,  the  impending  wiiitf.'. 
with  its  cold,  dark  nights,  the  penury  of  tlieir  resources,  the 
dreary  sense  of  increased  isolation — all  combined  to  de]>ress 
them.  But  their  energetic  leader,  leaving  them  no  time  for 
these  gloomy  thoughts,  set  them  actively  to  work  to  ma  Ice 
the  best  possible  preparations  they  could  for  the  kaig  c<.»ltl 
night  to  come. 

He  had  carefully  studied  the  Esrpiimaux,  and  determineil 
that  their  form  of  habitations  and  their  mode  of  diet,  without 
their  unthrift  and  filth,  were  the  safest  and  best  that  couM 
be  adopted.  The  deck  was  well  padded  with  moss  and  turf. 
so  as  to  form  a  nearly  cold-proof  covering,  and,  down  below, 
a  space  some  eighteen  feet  sfpiare — the  apartment  of  all  uses 
— was  enclosed  and  packed  from  floor  to  ceiling  with  inner 
walls  of  the  same  non-conducting  nuiterial.  The  floor  itselt. 
after  having  been  carefuHv  calked,  was  covered  with  Manilla 
oaktim  a  couple  of  inches  deejt,  and  a  canvas  carpet.  'Vlw 
I'utrance  was  from  the  hold,  by  a  low  moss-lined  tunnel,  with 


KAXK    AND   Tin:    KSi^MMArX. 


4ai 


10  brij,' 


iipt  many  iloors  and  curtains  to  clu.si-  it  up  as  in^^'iiuK y  naiKl 
•U'viso.  Lai'i^e  banks  dt'  snow  were*  also  thrown  up  alonj^ 
till'  brio's  siJ«'8  to  kfop  ott"  the  coM  wind. 

All  tln.'Ko  labours  in  tho  open  air  wondorlully  improved  tlu' 
health  of  the  cxii.*s,  and  their  strenj^'th  increased  from  day  to 
day.  A  friendly  interctmrse  was  opened  with  the  Esipiimaux 
i.f  the  winter  settlenu-nts  of  Etah  and  Avioatok,  distant  sonu' 
tiiirty  and  seventy  miles  from  the  ship,  who,  for  presents  of 
jieedles,  pins,  and  knives,  enpij^'od  to  fiirnitth  walrus  and 
IVesh  seal  meat,  and  to  show  the  white  men  where  to  find  tlie 
^Muie.  Common  huntii»<;  parties  were  or^aidsed,  visits  (»f 
courtesy  and  necessity  paid,  and  even  some  personal  attach- 
ments established  deserving'  of  the  name.  As  lon^  as  the 
Americans  remained  prisoners  of  the  ice,  they  were  indebted 
to  their  sava<^e  friends  for  invaluable  counsel  in  relation  to 
their  huntin<^  expeditions,  and  in  the  joint  hnnt  tlu'y  shared 
alike. 

The  Esquimaux  pave  them  supplies  of  nioiit  at  critical 
periods,  and  they  were  able  to  do  as  much  for  them.  In  one 
word,  without  the  natives,  Kane  and  his  companions  W(»idil 
most  likely  have  snccundx'd  to  the  winter,  and  the  Escjui- 
maux  on  their  part  learned  to  look  on  the  straiii^ers  a.s 
Itciiefactors,  and  mourned  their  departure  bitterly. 

On  Decendx'r  12,  the  party  which  had  abandoned  the  shi[> 
icturned,  havinj^  been  unable  to  penetrate  to  the  south,  and 
was  received,  as  had  been  promised,  with  a  brotherly  wel- 
roine.  They  had  sutfered  bitterly  from  the  cold,  want  «>f 
I'oimI,  and  the  fatiij^ues  of  their  march  anioiiy  tlu-  hummocks. 

'  The  thermometer,'  says  Kane,  '  was  at  minus  .")()°;  they 
Wore  covered  with  rime  and  snow,  and  were  faint injjf  with 
linii^rer.  It  was  necessary  to  use  caution  in  takin;^'  them 
brlow  ;  for,  after  an  ex[»osure  of  such  fearful  intensity  and 
"luration  as  they  had  o<tiie  throu^^h,  tlu>  warmth  »»f  the  cabin 
Would  have  prostrated  them  completely.  They  had  jonnieved 
thre«,'  hundred  and  tifty  miles  ;  and  their  last  run  from  the  bay 
iiciiv  Etah,  some  seventy  miles  in  a  rio:)it  line,  was  thnaij^h 
the  hummocks  at  this  a[»pallin;_;-  temperature.  One  by  one 
tiicv  all  came  in  and  were  housed.  Poor  felltuv-il  as  they 
threw  open  their  Es(|uinunix  garments  by  the  stove,  how 
'ln'v  relished  the   scanty   luxuries   which    we    had    to   (•tier 


43'i 


TIIK    I'ol.AU    W(>i{|,I>. 


tliein.  Tlio  cott'cc,  ami  the  ineut-l)isfuit  soup,  and  the 
inolassf'S,  and  the  whcat-lin'iid,  ovoii  the  salt  p(>rk,  wliirh  (mr 
Hciirvy  forbade  the  rest  of  us  <<»  tonch  -how  they  rclishrd  it 
all  !  For  more  than  two  months  thoy  had  livod  on  f'roz<ii 
seal  and  walrns-incat.' 

Thus  Kane,  by  his  (h'tcrniination  not  to  al)andou  the  ship. 
proved  the  saviour  of  all  his  coini'ades,  for  what  would  liiivr 
become  of  them,  had  he  be«.'n  less  firm  in  his  resolution,  or  if 
his  <'oura;^'e  had  failed  him  (hirin}^-  the  trials  of  that  dreadful 
winter  P 

'February  eloses,'  says   the   heroie  explorer,   'thank  «!<i(l 
for  the  lapse  of  its  twenty-eiLrht  days!      Should  the  thirtv- 
one  of  the  cominy;  Marcdi  not  dra;^'  us  farther  (h)wnward.  wi' 
may  hojie  for  a  suecessfid  close  to  this  dreary  drama.      IW 
April  lo  we  sh(tuld  have  seals;  and  when  tliey  conje,  if  w.' 
remain  to  welc<Mue  them,  wt'  can   call  ourselves  saved.     Jiiit 
SI  fair  review  of  our  pr(»spects  t<dls  me  that  \  must  look  tlii- 
lion  in  the  face.     The  scurvy  is  steadily  jj^ainin;;  on  us.      1  d.i 
my  best  to  sustain  the  luore  desi)erate  cases,  but  as  fast  as  I 
partially  build  uj*  one,  another  is  stricken  d(»wn.     Of  tli<'  six 
workers  of  mir  l)arty,  as   I    counted  theju  a  month  h'j^'k  twn 
are   unable   to  do  out-door  vrork,   and   the    renjainim/   Imir 
divide   the  duty  of  the  ship   am(»n;j:   them.       Ifans   musteis 
his  remaining  euer;j;ies  to  conduct  the  hunt.      Petersen  is  hi- 
disheartened,  moping  assistant.      The  other  two,  Bonsall  ami 
myself,  have  all  the  <hiily  otHces  (»f  household  and  hos[iitaI. 
We  chop  five  large  sacks  of  ice,  cut  six  fathoms  of  eii^lit 
inch  hawser  into  junks  of  a   loot  each,  serve  out  the  mum! 
when   we  liave   it,   hack  at  the  molasses,  and  hew  out   with 
crowbar  and  axe  tlie  pork  and  dried  ajtples  ;  pass  uj»  the  t'liil 
.sh>2)  and  cleansings  of  our  dormitory,  and  in  a  word,  ceok. 
.^ciilllouizi',  and  attend  the  si»d<.     Added  to  this,  for  five  !iit:lit> 
running  1  have  kept  watidi   from  S   i'.m.  to    1-  a.m.,  ciitchiiiu 
su(di  nai)8  as  I  could  in  the  day  without  changing  my  clothes. 
but  carefully  waking  every  hour  t(»  note  theruiomoters." 

With  March  came  an  incrcMSi;  of  sufferin'''s.  Fverv  iii:in 
on  board  was  tainted  with  scurvy,  and  there  were  seldom  iikhv 
than  threi'  who  could  assist  in  caring  for  the  rest.  Thi^ 
greater  number  were  in  their  bunks,  absolutely  unable  te»t!r. 
Had  ICane's  health  given  way,  the  whole  party,  depri\i'il  d 
it.-i  leading  spirit,  nuist  inevitably  have  perishi'd. 


AI'.ANDoNMKNT    «)['   Till:    '  AKVANCi:. 


•i:\:) 


ivty- 

I.  ^^•'■ 
liy 

[f  \\v 

1  .In 
,t  ilS  1 
\XV   S'.N 

II.  1\V" 

f    t"«  lur 

nstcv> 

is  l.i> 

lill  aii.l 

|>s[iit;il. 

'  ini'at 

\  witli 

(•(KiK. 

ni'j:l\t> 
tchhi'j; 

Irv  mall 
ill  innv' 


To  abiimloii  tho  sliiji  was  now  nn  al)Si'luto  iiO(U'SHiiv.  for 
a  lliiitl  winter  in  Rensselaer  J5ay  would  have  heeii  ecrtain 
(l.athtoall;  but  Itelore  lUe  boats  etiiild  be  traiisjiorted  to 
tin-  open  water,  many  i>re[»arations  had  to  be  niade,  and 
iiinst  (d'the  party  wi-rt?  still  too  weak  to  move.  Tin*  interval 
was  einnloved  bv  Kane  in  an  excursion  with  his  I'aithtul 
|!-i|iiiiiiaux  to  the  (Jreat  (Ilaeier. 

At  leuL-th  oil  Miiy  2«>,  |S.")r»,  the  entire  shi]»*s  eompany 
liiilc  farewell  to  the  'Advance.'  and  set  out  slowly  on  thi'ij- 
liMiin-ward  iotu'uev.  It  was  in  the  soft,  subdued  liu'lit  of  a 
Siimliiy  eveidti^*,  June  17,  that  after  hauliu;^;  thtir  boats 
^\iili  iinudi  hard  labour  thi'ou<«-h  the  hunnnocks,  thcv  stood 
liisiijc  the  open  sea-way.      But  fifty-six  davs  had  still  to  iiass 


'fnl-c 


tl 


U 


y 


con 


Id 


rea». 


h  tl 


le  nor 


it   of   V 


•ernavik. 


Neitl 


ur 


Mi'iuis  nor  drift-ice    rendered  this   lony^    boat-Joui'iu-y  dan- 

_'.i«'Us.  but   they  ha<l  to  contend  with   famine,  when  they  at 

I'lii^tli  reaidifd  the  open  bay,  and  found  themselves  in  the 

tull  liii"  of  the  y-reat  ii-e-drift  to  the  Atlantii-,  in  bouts  s(»  un- 

-  iwuithy  as  to  re(|uire  constant  balin;^'  to  keep  them  alloat. 

rinir  ,stri'ni,dh   had  decreased  to  an  ahirnun;^'  (Icil,^^^':  they 

Ir-atlii'd   heavily:  their  feet  were  so  swollen  that  tliry  were 

lilijcd  to  cut   open  their  canvas  boots  ;    they  wei-e  utterly 

iiial'lc  to  sleeji.  iind  the  rowing;'  and   liaiinn'  bcrjime  honrly 

iimrt'  tlitlicnit. 

It  \v;!s  at  this  crisis  (»f  tlu-ir  fortunes  that  they  saw  a 
i.iV'j:i'  seal  iloatiuijf — as  is  the  custom  of  thes(>  iiiiimals  on  a 
Miiall  patch  of  ice,  and  seeminj^ly  asleeji.     '  Tieudilin^'  with 


;iii.\itty.   says  J\ano,  'we   pie[)areil  to  crawl  down  upon  him. 

I''tirs.ii,  with  a  larti'e  Kn^lish  ritle,  was  stationed  in  the 
"W.  and   stockin;^"s  were  drawn  over  the  oars  as  mutljers. 

A^  w.'  neared  the  animal,  our  excitement    became  so  intense 

'!i:it  tlie  nu'U  could  hardly  keep  strol<e.  lie  was  not  aslee]i, 
1"  li"  reared  his  head  when  we  were  almost  within  rille. 
:"t:  ami  to  this  day  I  can  renien)ber  the  hard,  carewoi'ii, 
-iiM,>t  despairin<;  expression  of  the  men's  thin  faces  as  they 
>  w  liiiM  move;  their  lives  dejiended  on  his  cajiture.  T  de- 
irissfd  my  hand  nervously,  as  a  si^-nal  for  Petersen  to  liie. 
■'I'iarv  Jiunef  niion  his  oar,  and  the  boat,  slowly  but  noise- 
^^ly  suri;in<:^  ahead,  seenn'd  to  me  within  certain  ran^e. 
l""kinii-at  PetersiMi.  I  saw  that  the  poor  fellow  was  paralysed 


11 


4:u 


Tin:  i'(H-.M{  woKi.i*. 


by  his  uiixicls,  trying'  vainly  to  uldaiii   a    rest    \\>v   liis   ^^iin 
n^ainsi   tlic  mt-watiT  of  thf  l»(»iit.     TIm'    seal   rose  on    lijs 
l'oi'«'    iliitprrs,   L^a/.t'tl   at    us   for   a.  inonifiit    with    fri;;litrii,',l 
curiosity,  and  coiltMl  liinist-lf  for  a  {)Iiin;^'t'.     At  that  instant, 
Hiinultaiioously   with  th«!  crack  of  our  rillc,   he  rdaxf.l  his 
lon<;  Icuf^th  on  the  ice,  iind,  ut   the  very  brink  of  tlie  wat.  r. 
liis   Iiead   fell   helph'ss  to  one  side.      I   would   hav»}    onlrn-ii 
anotlier  sliot,  l)ut    no  discipline  could   have   controjird  ih,' 
men.     With  a  wild  yell,  each  vociferating'-  ucrordin<_''  In  lii> 
own   impulse,  they    urLjed    their    boats    ii[»on    the   ijix  >.     \ 
crowd  of  hands  seized  the  seal,  and  bore  him  up  1o  saf.  i'  icr. 
Tlie  men  seenu-d  half  ci'azy.      I  had  not  realised  how  iinuli 
we   were   redui*ed  by  al)solu  e    famine.     'J'liey  ran  over  iln' 
lloe,  cryin;^  and  lauLihin;^:,  antl  brandishin<.,'  their  knives.     It 
was  n(tt   live    minutes    before   every  man    was    snckiiii;  his 
bloody  iin;^-ers,  or  monthinj^'  l»»n;.^  strips  of  raw  blubljcr.     Ni.t 


an  ttunce  o 


ftl 


i!s  seal  was 


h)St. 


Within  it  day  or  two  another  seal  was  shot,  and  fVoia  that 
time  forward  they  had  a  full  supply  of  food. 

When  Kane,  after  an  absence  of  thirty  months,  retunii'il 
on  October  II,  l.S.")-'>,  to  Ni'w  Yoi-k,  he  was  enthusiast icully 
received.  Well  deserved  honours  of  all  sorts  awaited  jiim 
on  both  sides  of  the  Atlantic  ;  but  his  health,  ori^ninilly  wiak. 
was  completely  broken  by  the  trials  <»f  his  joui'uey.  himIhii 
Fi'bruarv  1<»,  18.") 7,  ho  died  at  the  Havannah,  in  the  ihiit\- 


itl 


f  h 


In  him  tlie  United  States  lost 
,'1 


dill' 


seventh  year  oi  liis  a;,^' 

<»f  their  noblest    sons,  a    true   hen 

shine  anioni^-  the   most  famous  navioators  of  all  tiinos 

of  all  nations. 

In    18()(>,  Dr.    Hayes,   who  had  accompanied  Kaue  nu  h 


o,  wnose    name  will  cvii 


aii'i 


iirl 


twenty  miles  in  latitude  to  the  srmth  of  llensselacr  IJarhi 
TJianks  to  an  abundant  supply  of  fresh  meat  (for  the  iit'i::lij 
b(mrhootl   abounded  with  reindeer),  and  also  no  doiiKt 
the  inexhaustible   fund  of  j^ood  humour  which  pivvailol: 


'''iivni'i- 

'"  .SO|/i(i 

""iiyiiK 

i'llllijjo-    ;, 

"'"'('tililO.s 


journey,  once  more   sailed  from  America  for  the  purpose  "tH  ''<•  tin 
com[»letinf!;the  survey  of  Kennedy's  Chainiel,  and,  if  [)ossiM 
of  pushiuf^f  on   to    the    Pole   itself.      After   several    iiiini 
escapes    from    ice-fields    and    icebero;s,    his    sch(»ont'i'.   tlii}| 
'  United   States,'  was  at  length  compelled  to  take  up  lui 
winter-quarters  at  Port  Foulke,  on  the  Greenhmd  coast,  ab'nil 


I '.I 

''''"ikijio- 

■;'''"  even 

'■'I'-llo-J,    ,,, 

■■''"l"n-;itiv, 

""(  a/u- 
'"''.'•iUidin 


TlIK    COAST   UV    (.i:i.N.\i:i,L    l,.\M>. 


4a.> 


rli<'«l 
tiint, 
I  hi> 

am '4 

A  til.' 
til  \\\> 
•>.    A 
tVv  \''<'. 
;  tn>i«li 
vrV  ill'' 


k'*'>' 


It 


roui 


lliiit 


V('tnvni''l 

iastu'i'^b' 
ni.Hl  to' 
jally  wf.iV- 
V.  ;\w\  "" 
ii,.  tlurty- 


ilU'l 


i\W 


till'  chip's  «'(>iiij>anv,  they  passed  llic  wintci"  willioul  siin'riiii;^^ 
tVi'iii  tho  scurvy;  but  must  ot"  the  tlojjfs  ou  whidi  Dr.  Hayes 
rclit'd  for  liLs  slcdij;!'  cxjit'ditious  in  tin*  «'nsuin;j;'  s[»rinijf 
wtTi'  destroyed  by  the  same  epidemic  wbich  had  been  so 
fatal  to  th<'  teams  <d'  Dr.  Kane.  Fortunately  some  fresh 
(l(i;.'s  could  be  purchased  andborrowfd  of  tin*  t'rii'udly  Ksipii- 
iiiaiix,  and  thus,  early  in  A|»ril,  |S(;i,  Dr.  Hayes  left  tlu; 
M  li(M»ner  to  plun^^-e  iut<»  the  icy  wilderness.  Ifaviuj^'  i>re- 
vimisly  ascertained  that  an  advanee  ahaujf  tht>  (Jn'cnland 
shore  was  utterly  im[tossiltle,  h«'  resolvcfl  to  er(»ss  tlu'  sound, 
iiiitl  to  try  his  fortunes  ahm^'  the  coast  of  (irinnell  Land, 
ttf  the  difficulties  which  lu'  had  to  encounter  his  (»wn  words 
will  j^ive  the  best  idea,. 

•  l>y  windiii'jf  to  the  ri^ht  and  left,  and  by  oocasi<»nally 
retracing''  our  ste[)s  when  we  liad  seleeti'd  an  inij»rarti('al»le 
I'lute.  we  managed  to  yfet  over  the  first  few  miles  without 
iiiiK'h  embarrassnu'ut,  l>nt  further  on  the  tract  was  rou^h, 
juist  descrii)tion.  1  can  c(»inpare  it  to  notliin;^'  but  a  pr<t- 
iiiisciious  accinnulation  of  rocks  (doscly  packed  to^-etlu'r  and 
lUt'd  up  over  a  vast  })lain  in  ^reat  heaps  and  endless  rid<^«'s, 
!'',ivini;  scarcely  a    foot  of   lev(d   surface.      The   interstices 


uiilii'' 

Jit'  po!*sil'l''J 

Lncv.   tlii 
like  up  l"i 

least.  •'l'"1 

the  wm 
L  Ao\M  'f 


lictween  these  (. 


.•los(d' 


accuniu 


lated 


ice-masses  ai'e 


tilled 


')' 


til  soiii(>  extent,  with  drifted  snow.  The  reader  will  readily 
iiii!i;,'iiie  the  rest.  He  will  see  the  sled^-es  windiny-  through 
I'll' taii<;led  Avilderiu'ssof  l)r(>ken  ice-tables,  the  iu«'ii  and  (lo<^s 
i'iilliii<;  and  pushin<j;  up  their  respective  loads,      lie  will  see 


•in    t 


land) 


eriim-    over   the    very   sunnnit    of    loftv    rid;^'e 


hi'uu'ili  which  there  is  no  o[»enin;4',  and  a^'ain  dt'scentliu};-  on 
i'.u'  dtlu'r  side,  the  sled;j;e  often  ]»iun;i"in»;"  ov«'r  a  prei-ipice, 
^'iiu'tinies  capsi/an<jf  and  frequently  breaking".  Ayain  he  will 
^'■tlii'  i>arty  baffled  in  their  attempt  to  cross  or  find  a  jtass, 
'I'likinLj  a  track  with  shovel  and  hands[tike  ;  oi-,  aj^ain,  un- 
Mi'  even  with  these  ap[iliances  to  arconiplish  their  end, 
'!i''v  retreat  to  seek  a  better  track:  and  thev  mav  be  lucky 

ii^li  to  find  a  sort  of  ^^ap  <>r  j^ateway,  upon   the   winding 
""I  uin'vt'U  surface  of  which  they  will  make  a  mile  or  so  with 

i['arative  ease.      The   snow-drifts  are  sometimes  a   hel]) 
I'iiii!  sometimes  a  hindi*ance.     Their  surface  is  mnforndy  hard 

Hot  always  firm  to  th<'  foot.     The  crust   fre<piently  ;^'i\es 
and  in  a  most  tiresome  and  pr<tvokino^  nninner.      It  will 


■liMl 


i'llt 


«IV. 


t   1 


4f\i> 


TIIK    I'dLAK    \V(H{I,I». 


I 


3. 


'  I 


m'1m[ 


lint  (jiiitc  bear  tlu'  wci^^lit,  iiiid  llic  f'tiol  sinks  at  the  vtTv 
inoiiu'iit  when  <lu' other  is  littt'<l.  liul.  worst"  tliaii  tliis.  ih,. 
oliasiiis  hot  ween  tlio  huiniiiocks  arc  tVciiiU'iitly  hritl^nd  ii\r|- 
with  Hiiow  ill  Hiich  a  iuaiiiM>r  as  to  h>avi'  a  (.'oiisidoraldc  sjiini- 
at  the  bottom  quite  milill»Ml  ;  ami  at  the  very  iiionuMit  whiii 
all  looks  ]iroiiiisiii^^,  down  sinks  one  man  to  his  nii(|)||>'. 
another  to  the  nock,  another  is  buried  <»ut  ot'si;j;ht ;  the  slt-il^r,. 
^ives  way,  and  to  extricate  the  whole  from  this  uiili;ii.|.v 
prerlicameut,  is  probably  the  labour  of  lnuirs.  It  would  Im> 
ilidicult  to  ima^'ine  any  kind  of  labour  more  disheaitenin^,  m- 
Avhich  W(»uld  sooner  sa}»  the  ener^'ies  of  both  men  and  aiii!ii;il>. 
The  sireni^tli  j^ave  way  j^'radnally  ;  an<l  when,  as  often  Imji. 
j»ened  after  a  htn^'  and  hard  day's  work,  we  could  look  li.n  k 
from  our  eminence  and  almost  fire  a  rille-ball  int(»  our  l;i>t 
snow-liut,  it  was  truly  discoura^in<^.' 

No  wonder  that  after  thus  toiling  on  for  twenty-flvf  (l;iv> 
they  had  not  yet  rea(died    half-way  across  the   sound,  iind 
that  thev  were  all  broken  down.     But  their  bold  h-adti-  \v;i> 
fully  determined  n(»t  to  abandon  his  enterprise  while  still  tli'' 
faintest  hope  of  success  renuiined,  and  seudinj^'the  nuiiii  |nirt\ 
back  to  the  scdiooner,  he  continued  to  pluni^e  int«>  the  huiii- 
mocks  with   three  ]>icked  companions  —  J«'nsen.  ]M*l)nii;ilil. 
Knorr — and   foiu'teen  doy's.     After  fourteen  davs  of  uliimst 
Hupei'humau  exertion  the;  sound  was  at  len<;"th  crossfd.  uml 
now  be<.>"au  iuscarcely  less  harassin<;' journey  alon<4'  llie  mii'.t. 
On  the   fifth  day  Ji'usen,   tlu»  strone-est  man  of  the  |iiirtv. 
comidetely  brtdc<'  down,  and  leavinj,'   him  to  the  clun>.''('  if 
M'Doiiald,  Dr.  Hayes  now  pushed  on  wnth  Kn<»rr  alone,  until. 
on  May  18,  he  reached  the  border  of  a  deep  bay,  where  I'urtlur 
progress  to  the  north  was  sto}iped  by  rotten  ice  and  cnicks. 
Eif^dit  before  him,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  frith,  rose  Mount 
Parry,  the  lofty  peak  first  seen  by  Morton  in  ISo  !•  fioni  th-- 
sIku'os  of  Washin<;ton  Land;  and,  farther  on,  a  nohle  litinl- 
land,  Cape  Union — the  most  northern  known  land  upniitli'l 
globe — stood  in  faint  outline  against  the  dark  sky  of  th- 
open  sea.     Thus  Dr.  Hayes  divides  the  honour  of  extiviu' 
northern  travel  with  Parry. 

On  July  12,  the   'United   States'  was  released  freiu  li<rj 
icy  trammels,  and  Dr.  Hayes  once  more  attempted  to  rtn 
the  opposite  coast  and  continue  his  discoveries  in  (hiim  I 


V(  IIIKVK.MK.NiS    or    l)|{.   II.WKS. 


417 


ryVV 

* 

iivi  r 

l»lH't' 

.Ml-. 

i'>l'l'> 
M  !"■ 

\iu'.  "'' 
iur.iU. 
11  luij'- 
k  iu.k 

;c  (V,i\- 

11(1.    lUl'l 

still  th" 
liii  inivl} 
he  liuni- 
)iin;il'l. 
;ilm">l 

•il.  ilU'l 

JiilVt}. 
llliV'^'t'  "* 

lie.  until- 
V  fuvllx'i' 

iVttiu  ill'' 
,!(>  luii'l- 
iijHm  til-' I 

,y    of    til" 
•   ^.xt.'.'Ul'' 

l"ri>m  li'i 
to  v.';v-li 
■i  tlviuii' 


iSC 


liiiml :  l)ul  tlu'  si'luxuHT  wiis  in  foo  ('rii»|il»'d  a  state  to  Inrco 
In  r  wiiy  tlirou;,'li  tlio  paok-ict'  which  hiy  in  h«'r  course,  ami 
(•(•in|«'llo(l  her  foiniiiaiuh'r  t<>  rctiii'ii  to  Hoston. 

Thus  (Mi(h'(l  this  r<  inarkahh?  voya^-e ;  hiit  haviu<^  clone 
<i>  niiK'h,  Dr.  llayos  is  I'a^fer,  an<l  resdlved,  to  do  still  more. 
Kiilly  convinced  hy  his  own  e?  [>erience  that  men  nuiy  subsist 
ill  Smith's  Sound  independent  ot' support  from  home,  he  pro- 
pisi's  to  establish  a  self-sustainin'4  colony  at  Port  Foulke, 
wliidi  may  be  made  the  basis  of  an  extended  ex[»loration. 
Williont  any  second  party  in  the  field  to  co-(»perati'  with  him, 
;iii(l  under  the  m(»st  adver.se  circiimstanees,  he,  by  dint  of 
indomitable  perseverance,  pushed  his  discoveries  a  hundred 
miles  farther  to  the  north  and  west  than  his  predecessors  ; 
iunl  it  is  surely  not  over  sauj^uine  to  expect  that  a  party 
Irtl.T  provi(h'd   with  tlu'  means  of  travel   may   be   able  to 


tnivt'rse  the    1H(I    miles  at    least    which    interv 


ene 


bet 


ween 


Mount  Parrv  and  the  Pide.  The  oi)en  sea,  whi<d\  both  Morton 
mill  himself  found  beyond  Kennedy  Channel,  L,'ives  fair  pnt- 
iiiisc  nf  success  to  a  stron<j  vessel  that  mav  reach  it  after 
iiiiviii'jf  forced  the  i<'e-blocked  passa<,'e  of  Suiith's  Sound;  or 
siionld  this  be  impracticable,  to  a  boat  transported  across 
till'  sound  and  then  launched  upon  its  waters. 

Captain  Sherard  Osborne,  who  is  likewise  a  warm  partisan 
"f  tills  route,  has  been  endeavoiu'ino;  to  interest  (Jovernment 
ill  its  favour;  but  in  the  opinicm  of  other  scientific  author- 
ities an  easier  pa-ssa^;*'  seems  open  to  the  navii,''ator  who 
may  attempt  to  reach  the  Pole  by  way  of  Spit/.bero;en. 
To  the  east  of  this  archi[)elao;t>  the  ^ulf-stream  rolls  its 
volume  of  comparatively  warm  water  far  on  to  the*  north- 
"iist.  and  possibly  swee])S  round  the  Pole  itself.  Tt  was  to 
tlu' north  of  Spit/ber<jfen  that  Parry  reached  the  latitufle  of 
^2'  1.V  :  and  in  1S:;7  the  '  Truelove,'  of  Hull,*  sailed  throuoh 
1  iicrt'ectly  open  son  in  82°  :{<>'  N.  1.')°  E.,  aiul  had  sht»  cou- 
tinuod  her  course  miofht  possibly  have  reached  the  Pole  as 
*-iisily  as  the  hio-h  latitude  whiih  she  had  alreadv  attained. 

The  distino^uished  ^eoo^rapher  Dr.  Au^'usfus  Pctermann. 
^vho  warmly  advocates  the  route  between  Spit/bcrovn  and 
''rcenland,  has,  by  dint  of  perseverance,  succeeded  in  ccdlect- 


Ailii'iiii'iim."  I)('i'.  ;{,  I s.'i;?. 


4:H 


TIIM   roLAlJ    \Vo|{|.l>. 


iii^if  imioii^'  his  I'oniitrynii'ii  lln-  iicccssjiry  riindH  for  ;i  vtMi.n- 
iioitri!i«^  v<>yii;^<_»  ill  this  (lii'cctiun.  Tliaiiks  to  his  «'xcrliuiis. 
May  2  !•,  IHJIS,  Avilii('Hs«'il  the  «h']»iirlni'('  <tf'  a  smiill  sliip  ..( 
80  tons,  the  Mi<>niiiiiiiii/ ('iipiaiii  Kolih-wcy,  f'r<»iii  Ihf  j.t.rf 
of  IJoi'i,'*'!!,  for  Shiiiiiion  Ishiiul  (7."»''  I  !•'  N.  hit.),  the  hi'j:li( -.f 
|>oiiit  on  the  ciist  c'Oiisl  of  (}ro(Milinnl  iittiiincd  by  Hiihini'  in 
1H2''{.  Hfiv  thiMitti'nipt  to  <'X[>lor('  th(!  uiikin»\v?i  Arctic  Sims 
beyond  was  to  b('|j;in  ;  but,  meeting"  with  I'liorinous  musses 
of  Urift-icc  on  hor  ropcatrd  endeavours  to  jieiu'tratc  in 
the  north-oast,  the  *  Gorniania  '  has  been  oldio-rd  to  relnni. 
after  roiJcliin^  the  hij^h  hititnde  of  ST  .'>',  niid  aecuvatilv 
Kurveyin;^'  a  small  i)art  of  the  (Ireenland  coast  hitherto  Iml 
iniperfi'etly  exi)lored.  An  oxj)edition  on  a  more  extensive 
scab'  is  to  renew  the  attempt  in  ls»»!>, 

A  third  route  to  the  Pole  is  no  less  strenuously  recniii- 
mended  by  M.  Onstave  Lambert,  a  French  hydro«,naj»li»  r. 
who,  havin<^  sailed  Ihrouj^h  IJelirino's  Strait  in  a  whaler,  in 
1H(;5,  is  persuaded  that  this  is  the  ri^-ht  Avay  to  reach  tlic 
probh'matieal  open  North  Sea,  which,  once  attained,  promises 
a  free  passaj^e  to  the  navi<ifator.  Liberal  snbseriptioas  Imw 
been  raised  in  Paris  for  the  aceoniplishment  of  his  i»laii.  ami 
an  expedition,  under  his  command,  will  nmst  probably  si  t 
<mt  in  18(')t>. 

Thus,  after  so  many  illustrious  navij^'ators  have  vainly  cn- 
deavcmred  to  reach  the  lV»le,  san^uii/e  projectors  arc  still  ;i> 
ea^ifor  as  ever  to  attain  the  <;(>al  ;  nor  is  it  probable  tli:it 
man  will  ever  rest  in  his  efforts,  until  every  attainable  renien 
of  the  Arctic  Ocean  shall  have  been  fully  ex[)lored. 


■•r 


1 


^■,      ' 


'?^^.;k'? 


';'.*> 


'ihc  Kficoiiii. 


,f-  iv."i  ii'i  iin  1. 


CTIAi'TKR    XXX FV. 


NiaVI'ol  Nhi.ANK. 


1>  ilonlMi'  A>-poot— Forosts  -JIiU>li(s  liai'i'i  :i-  I'dImN  l''iir-l'' Mfiii::  Aii'iii.il- 
--Sovcrili.  <it'  Cliiniitc-  Si.  Jnliirs-  Iiiscciwrv  ut'  Nr\\  t'dniicll.iinl  Ky  tli.  SimiuII- 
n.ivlans— Sir  IIiun]>lu"i'_v  (iillifi-r  —  Ilivalrv  I'l'  tlh'  I]ii::li-li  .'U'l  l''roiH'li-  Im- 
j'rtancp  of  tlic  l'i>luric> — Tlic  lliiiik'-  of  Ncwfoniiillaml  .Mixlc  of  Fisliinp  - 
Tlir'iatcrs.    Ili  .'I'lcrs,  Sjiliti.  r-,  Sali.r^,  aiiil   I'acki-i''^     I'njis   iiikI  Sturins  -  Si  al 

I'Mtl'llillJi'. 

pKNKRALJiY  veiled  willi  misls,  XcwroniMlliiiid  iiit[iears  at 
n  first  sio-ht  o-looin^Miuil  repulsive.  Al)riq>t  clifl's,  sliow- 
intr  lit'iv  ami  there  traces  of  a  scant  v  ve<;'etati»>ii,  rise  steep 
iind  bare  from  tlio  sea,  and  lor  miles  and  niilivs  the  eye  sees 
'I'lthiiio-  but  brown  hills  or  higher  mountains,  des(date  an<l 
«il(l  us  they  appeared  in  the  eleventh  century  to  the  bold 
Xorwr^'ian  navigators  -wlio  lirst  landetl  on  its  desert  shores. 
The  waves  of  the  ocean  have  everywhere  cf)rrode(l  the  rocky 
^•oast  into  fantastic  pinnacles,  or  excavated  deej)  ^^Tottoes  in 
its  flanks.  In  one  of  these  cavities  the  action  f»f  the  snrut» 
has  inYMluced  a  rennirkable  phenoniemni,  known  under  the 
'!iiin(>  nt' '  The  Spont.'     In  stormy  weather  the  waves  penetrate 


4tO 


Tin:  r<»i.\i{  woki.h. 


into  tlic  liollow  iiixl  furer  tln'ir  way  witli  n  tlrfiidt'iil  iir-i^,. 
tVoiM  nil  !i|i('rtMn>  in  tin*  rnrk,  mm  u  ^ri^iintic  r)iiiMt;iiii  visililr 
ill  !i  tlistiinct'  of  sfViTiil  miles.* 

Till'  iiiti'vinrnf  the  cnniitrv  corn'siHinMs  with  lln-  lorliitMin^' 
ii|tp('iirau<'t'  of  the  cdiists.  iiiid  ulVrrs  nothing'  1)U<  a  siiccrssidn 
dj'  turt'sts,  inarHlics,  ami  barrens.  'I'lir  Inrcsts,  if  tlicy  nmv 
lliiis  l»t'  callt'tl,  <^n'm'rully  '^rt>\\  on  llic  dfclivilii's  of  tin-  liilU 
or  on  tin'  si«l»'S  of  the  valleys,  where  the  sn|»erlhjons  wntits 
lin<l  a  natural  drain.  The  trees  consist  tor  the  most  part  .f 
lir,  sjirnee,  hireh,  pirn',  and  jiniiper  or  lareh  ;  and  in  ecit.iiu 
districts  the  wych-ha/.el,  the  nionntain-ash,  the  ejdir.  t!ir 
aspen,  and  s(»ni(i  <ithers  ai'e  t'ountl.  'I'he  (diaraefrr  of  tli,. 
tindter  varies  <;rcatly  according  t<»  the  natnre  of  the  >iiliN.i| 
and  tile  situation.  In  some  parts,  more  esjiecially  where  tlic 
woods  have  l)een  undistiirhed  hv  the  a.\e,  trees  of  fair  inj^lit 

nnd  trirth  mav  he  fonnd  ;  hnt  most  of  the  w 1  is  of  stiinti.l 

p;rowth,  eonsistinpf  ehielly  of  lir  trees  ahoiit  twenty  oi-  thirty 
feet  hi^di,  and  not  moro  than  three  or  four  inelies  in  diaiiKtrr. 
I'hese  commonly  ^'I'ow  so  cloHoly  toeetli,.v,  i]\,\\  tlieir  t\vi^< 
and  hranclies  interlace  from  toj*  to  hottom,  while  iiiiinii;.' 
them  may  he  seen  innumerahle  old  and  r(»tten  stumps  iiiiil 
hranclies,  or  n<'wly-lallen  trees,  which,  with  the  younu' slimtts 
and  hrnshwood, forma  tangled  and  often  impenetrahle  tliiikct. 
The  trees  are  often  covered  with  lichens,  and  tufts  of  wlijt.' 
«lrv  moss  are  eiitanuled  ahout  the  hrancl 


les. 


Otl 


icr  <'rf'fii 


nn<l  softer  moss(>s  spread  over  the  fjround,  roncealinj,' alik" 
the  twisted  roots  of  tlie  standini^;  ti'ecs  and  the  poinicl 
stnmjts  of  those  whi(di  have  fallen,  the  sharj*  ed|^fcs  or  sli]- 
pery  stirface  of  the  numerouR  rocks  and  houMers,  anil  tli-' 
holes  aud  pitfalls  hetween  tlu'm.  l']v«Ty  st»»p  through  tin-' 
woods  is  C(»nse(piently  a  matter  <»f  tjrcat  toil  ami  aiixi'ty, 
In  tho  heat  of  summer,  Avhilo  the  w<>ods  arc  so  thi<k  iiM" 
shut  out  every  hreath  «if  air,  they  aro  at  the  same  tiiii' 
too  low  and  too  thinly  loavod  at  to])  to  exclude  the  rays  if 
tho  siui,  the  atniosplu're  hein;,'  furtlun*  rendered  close  aii'i 
stifliu}^  hy  the  smell  of  the  turpeutine  which  exudes  from  tli-' 
trees. 


*  For  an  afi'iiiiiil  oftlic  siiiiiliir  i>!icni>mcMii  of  tlio  '  I^)iitl;u 


(in  tl 


M. 


poa^t,  and  nf  the  '  Sonfllonr,"  .Munritius,  *oc  •  Tlif  S.'a  ami  its  liiving  Wi'i'd" 
3ril  I'll.  1'.  .■>•_'. 


MAHSIIKS    ,\M»    I'.AKUK.NS, 


411 


Hll»'|MSt'<l  ill  tlli'Hf  yloniilV  Wotiils.  liiV'^c  o|M'M  friicfs.  Ciillfd 
iiiiiisIh's,  iirc  IoiiikI  ciivcriiiM;  tin-  viillfvn  iiii«t  It.wtT  lands,  iiidI 
tVi'i'it'iitlv  also  at  a  ci'iisidfralilc  lu'i;j:lit  alniv**  llic  sra.on  tlu> 
niulnlatiiijx  l»a<"ks  of  tin-  iim>uii tains,  'riifsc  tnirtn  arc  r(tv<'r«'<l 
t.i  a  <li'i>th  soiiictinit's  d'  srviTal  It'i-t  with  a  ;xn't'ii.  soft,  ami 
spi'iiL^y  muss,  ItoiMid  to;;;i.tlifi*  l»v  Ht ra},'},'Iin;;;  LTra^s  an«l  varioiiH 
iiiarsli  itlaiits.  'I'lu'  siivlatf  alMtinuls  in  liillo.Ks  atnl  holes, 
tlic  tiijiH  of  th«*  hiMorlvH  haviiiLT oftrn  «lrvrris|»  iiiosh,  li!:*- that 
Mil  the  tn'cs.      A  houlth'T  or  small  cra^' of  i-ock  orcasionallv 


pro 


In  1(1 


t'S. 


CO 


vci't'd  with   n  <l  or  white  liclu'iis,  and   Im-i-c  and 

fJii'iH'   is   a    hank   on   which   the  moss   has   Im-co'iic  di'v   and 

\r||nw.     The  contrast  of  these  colours  with  the  dark  velvety 

uM'Cii  of  the  wet  moss  freiinently  ^ivcs  a  jM-ciiliarly  rich  ap- 

|"'arance  to  the  marshes,  s(»  that  when  seen  from  a  little  dis- 

t.iiice  they  tnijiht   easily  he  mistaken  for  Inxnriant   meadow 

'grounds,  hilt   a   closer  inspection   soon   drst  roys  the   illusion, 

mid  shows,  instea<l  of  nutritions  ^rass  and  aromatic  tlowei-s, 

iinthiiiu  hut  a carjM't  of  iisidess  crypto^amic  jilants.      Hxcepf 

ill  loiii,'  continued  drou-j^hts  or  hard  frosts,  these  marshes  are 

so  wet  as  to  he  niiahle  to  hear  the  weight  of  a    person  walk- 

iii'j;  over  them.      \   mandi  of  three  miles.  sinki?iy  at   everv 

step    into   tli(>    nn  ss,    sometimes    knee-dtep,    and    always   as 

t'iir  as  the  ankle,  is,  it   may  well  he  supp<>se(l,  toilsome   and 

f;ili'j:uino-,  especially   when,«as   must   always  he  tlie  case  in 

attempt iui:'  to  penetrate  the  country,  n  heavy  load  is  carried 

11)1   the   shouhh'rs.     This  thick  ooatin*^  of  moss  is  precisely 

like  a  i^Teat  spou<4"e  spread  over  the  country,  and  hecomes  at 

till'  melting'  of  the  snow  in  the  spring  thoroujilily  saturat(>d 

with  Avater,  wlii(di  it  lon^^  retains,  ami  wliich  every  shower  of 

rain  continually  renews. 

The  '  harrens  '  (^f  Newfoundland  are  those  districts  which 
ncoiuiv  the  summits  of  the  hills  and  ridijfes,  and  other  elevated 
and  exposed  tracts.  They  iive  coA'cretl  witli  a  thin  and 
scnilihy  vee;etatioii,  consistiujj;  of  hcrry-hearin<(  plants  and 
'Uviirf  hushes  ctf  various  species,  resemhlin;^'  the  moor- 
lands of  the  north  of  En<,dand,  and  ditterin;^  only  in  the 
kind  (»f  vegetation  and  its  scantier  quantity.  Bare  pattdies 
"t^rravel  and  boulders  and  cnnnhliug  frae-meuts  of  rock  are 
tViMineutly  met  with  np<ui  the  l)arrens,  and  they  are  gene- 
railv  allotrether  destitute  of  rem'tahle  soil,     liu.t  onlv  on  the 


44-2 


TIIK    I'ttl-AK    UdlJM). 


J 


biinviis  is  it  possihlc  to  t'Xi»l(»n'  tln'  iiitrrinr  of  the  coinitix 
with  any  kind  of  ciisc  or  expedition.  'J'l, esc  (liff'crcnt  tr;i(t> 
nro  none  <»1'  tlicni  el  any  {j^reat  extent;  \vo(»(ls,  niiirslies.  mul 
barrens  ire(|uently  alternating^'  with  e;i(  h  other  in  the  course 
of  a  (Uiy's  journey. 

Anotlu^r  reniiirkahle  feature  of  Newfoundliind  is  tlie  alumisf 
incredible  nundjer  of  lakes  of  all  sizes,  all  of  which  are  indis- 
criniinately  called  ponds.     They  are  scattered  over  the  wlir.l,^ 
coantry,  not  only  in  the  valleys  but  on   the  hi^-lier  lands  iind 
oven  in  the  hollows  of  the  summits  of  tlierid<4;es  and  tlw  verv 
tops  of  the  hills.     They  vary  in  si/e  from  pools  of  fifty  vnnls 
in  diameter  to  lakes  upwards  of  thirty  miles  lom;-  and  i'nur 
or  five  miles  across.     The  nundjer  of  those  which  I'xcf.'il  ii 
couple    of   miles   in  extent   must   on    the  wln»le  amoniit  tn 
several  hundreds,  while  those  of  a  smaller  size  are  absoliitdv 
countless.     It  is  sn])posed  that  a  full  third  of  the  surfaci- ot' 
the  island   is  covered  by  fresh  water,  and  this  reckoniiiL;'  is 
rather  below  than  above  the  mark.      In  a  country  so  alnin- 
dantly  provided  with  lakes  or  ponds,  it  seems  stran;jf(^  to  find 
no   navigable   rivers.     The  undulaliny-  surface   of  the  liuid. 
with  its  abrupt  hills  antl  deep  gullies,  is,  without  all  d<iul)t, 
one  cause  of  this  absence  of  lar^vr  streams. 

Each  pond  or  small  set  of  ponds  communicates  uilli  ;i 
valley  of  its  own,  down  which  it  tends  an  insif^uilicant  brook, 
which  takes  the  nearest  course  to  the  sea.  The  chief  caiiM' 
however  both  of  the  vast  al)undance  of  ponds  and  the  com- 
parative scantiness  of  the  brooks  is  to  be  found  in  the  <^yo',A 
coating  of  moss  which  spi'cads  over  the  country,  and  relaitr 
the  water  like  a  S]K»nge,  allowing  it  to  drahi  otf  but  sloulv 
and  gradually. 

The  wilds  of  Newfoundland  are  tenanted  by  numerous  I'nr- 
bearing  animals,  altording  a  great  source  of  gain  to  soino  of 
the  tishermen,  who  in  winter  turn  furriers.  Arctic  foxes  ai- 
here  in  all  their  variety.  Beavers,  once  nearly  extirpated,  but 
now  unnudested  owing  to  the  low  value  of  their  fur,  arc  in- 
creasing in  numbers.  Ih-owii  bears  are  pretty  iuimcroii>. 
and  Polar  bears  sometimes  Iind  their  way  to  the  northern  pr^'- 
montory  of  the  island  uj^on  the  ice  which  comes  drit'tin- 
down  in  spring  from  Davis'  Straits.  By  way  of  contrast,  in 
hot   summers  the   tropical   humming-bird  has    been  kiiowi 


>T.    .toiINS. 


44.« 


ilry 
•afl> 
iin<\ 

lUV.Sf 

must 
ntlis- 

s  aiid 

(■  VI 'VV 

yaviU 
(1  f"ur 

LMM'tl  !l 
\\\\\  tn 
,()l\ltrly 

ft'aoi'  of 

,  iilmw- 
.  t(.  tiii'l 
III"  lau'l 

with  ;i 

lit  lii't'"^. 

i-l"  can-' 

lit'  c<ini- 

llio  (flVOiit 

|\  iviaiii- 

,,t  s\|'^v^y 

Irons  fuv- 

I)  SOllH'  ''' 

lloxes  av' 
IviU'tl.  I'Ut 
ir,  aiv  ii'.- 

Ihorn  l>v'- 

aviftiiv- 

liitvast.  ir, 


fi.  visit  llii' s<»u<Iii'ni  siinn-s  of  XcwfoiiiKllinnl.  Kfiiitlcov  arr 
;il»mi(laMl,  l»ut  iiiitort\iiiiit<'ly  their  ciu'iiiics  Mh'  wolvi-s  hiivc 
likt'wist^  ituToast'd  in  nuinbcr,  sinoo  tlio  ivwanl  j^ivon  by  tlio 
(dlonial  •^'ovcrniiieut  for  their  (Icstriiction  lias  coasod  to  be 
laiil. 

AlthouL;]i  ill  the  same  hititudf  as  Central  France  and  the 
SdUTli  of  (.ierniaiiy,  NeAvloundland  has  a  h^]\<f  and  severe 
winter,  owinfj  to  the  two  vast  streams  of  Aretie  water,  the 
Oavis'  Straits  and  East  (.Greenland  cnrrents.  which  combine 


I 


aiii 


1  rnn  bv  its  shoi 


•es 


ai 


id  tlie  snmmer,  thonLrh  sometim 


es 


iiitfiiseiv  hot,  is  so  short  and  so  freiiuentlv  obscured  bv  fou's, 
that  even  wore  the  soil  less  sterih',  aj^'i'icnltnre  nuist  neces- 
sai'ily  be  contined  to  narrow  limits.  The  little  wheat  and 
hai'h'V,  cultivated  on  the  inside  lands  far  above  the  sea-shore, 
is  dlten  cut  fj^reen,  and  carrots,  tni-nips,  potatoes,  and  cabbaj^e 
are  nearlv  all  the  escnlent  veyvtables  which  the  land  has 
Imth  ]>roved  capable  of  producin;^. 

Hence  we  cannot,  wonder  that  the  whole  island,  which  is 
(•oii;<ideral»ly  lar^'cr  than  Scotland,  has  only  about  1K),0(M> 
inhabitants,  and  even  these  wonld  have  had  no  iiMlucement 
u>  >c1tle  on  so  unpromising-  a  soil,  if  the  riches  ol"  the  sea 
tlid  not  amply  compensate  for  the  deficiencies  of  the  land. 
Fish  is  the  staple  produce  of  Xewfoiuidland,  and  the  bulk  of 
its  jiopulation consists  of  [)oor  lishcrmen,  who  have  established 
themselves  aloiij''  the  deei)  bavs  by  which  the  coast  is  in- 
il.iitrd,  and  catcdi  near  the  coast  vast  quantities  of  cod, 
\\hi<h  they  brin^;'  in  and  cnre  at  their  leisure,  in  order  to 
have   it   ready  for  the  ships  when  they   arrive.     With  the 

Iter  wirld  tlu'y  have  little  communication,  and  a  vi>it  to 
St.  Jolurs,  the  cai)ital  of  the  islan<l.  forms  an  epoch  in  their 
-"iitarv  lives. 


Ill 


This  town  lies  at  the  head  of  a  with'  and  secure  ba  v,  and  c»»n- 
Msts  (»f  a  main  street  frontinj^-  the  water,  from  whieh  narrow, 
'hrty  lanes  and  alleys  branch  out  towards  the  land.  The  din^fy, 
'mpainted  houses  are  built  of  wood,  the  Lj'overnment  edifices 
"iilv  boiim-  constructed  of  brick  or  st(»ne.  Tlie  l(•ll^•  rows  of 
Hsh-stao'os  alouf^  the  shore  attract  the  stran^t'r's  attention, 
I'lit  lif  is  still  more  astonished  at  the  countless  ^"in  and  beer- 
^hiips,  whi(di  at  once  tell  him  he  is  in  a  place  where  thirsty 
^;iil<>vs  and  fishermen  fbrni  the  mass  of  the   }>opulation.      In 


444 


riii;  I'ui.AU  \\«)i:ij>. 


tli<'  winti'V  St.  John's  is  coinitiirativcly  dcsortcil,  iis  it  ih^n 
liiis  ii(>  iimn'  lliiiii  about  l0.(M>(l  iiiliubitants,  l»iit  ilioir  miiii- 
IxT  is  <loiil)l<'(l  oi'  tivl)l('(l  (luriiiiif  tlic  iisliin<j-  season. 

Tlie  island  of  Newfoundland,  first  soon  and  visit«'(l  in  tli" 
eleventh  ceiitui'}'  by  the  Xorse  eolonists  of  (Jreenland.  iiii'l 
then  utterly  fori;<itteu,  was  rediscovered  in  1  11>7  or  1  tUS  hv 
John  aii<l  Sebastian  Cabot. 

The  richness  of  its  t•od-t^sheri(^s  soon  attracted  attention, 
and  iisherinen  from  Spain,  f^-ance,  Portu<:fal,  and  England  ;iii- 
nually  visited  its  banks.  The  best  harbours  alonjj;-  the  coiist 
wore  occupied  by  the  tirst  comers  in  sprin;^,  —  -  a.  circnm- 
stance  which  p^ave  rise  to  frequent  quarrels.  To  (d)viat<»  this 
lawless  state  of  affairs.  Sir  Humphrey  Gill)ert  Avas  sent  nut 
by  {.^ueen  Elizabeth  in  ]o8o  to  take  possession  of  the  luml. 
He  divided  the  coast  about  St.  J(din's  into  districts,  and  th(> 
British  settleis  willin^-ly  ajjfreed  to  [ta}'  a  tax  to  <,n)verninont 
in  the  expectation  of  seeing  their  interests  better  protected. 
The  new  arran^jfement  had  a  beneticial  effect  on  the  trade  of 
Newfoundland,  for  in  K*)].")  more  than  2o{>  Eiej,-lish  vessels 
visited  St.  John's,  and  ^'radually  the  whole  of  the  eastern 
coast  of  the  island  tvas  occupied  by  En^^lish  fishermen. 

The  French  on  their  part  colonised  the  north  and  south 
sid(^s  of  the  island,  and  founded  the  town  of  Placentia.  onci^ 
a  very  consideralde  place  but  now  reduced  to  insip,'nitieiiiiot'. 
The  rivalry  of  the  French  was  naturally  a  ^^reat  source  of 
jealousy  to  a  nation  ill-a<'CUstomed  to  brook  any  fbreipi 
intrusion  into  its  commercial  inteivsts.  Thus,  after  the  war 
of  the  Spanish  succession,  Great  Britain  denuinded  ami 
oV)tained  by  the  Treaty  of  Utreclit  the  sole  piossessioii  nt 
Newfoundland  ;  and  Louis  XIV.,  anxious  for  peace  on  any 
terms,  williu<>dy  acceded  to  this  sacrifice,  merely  reservin;j:  i'ox 
his  subjects  the  riyht  to  dry  on  tlie  shores  of  the  island  tlii^ 
fish  they  had  canpfht  on  the  baidvs.  By  the  subseciucnt 
treaties  of  Paris  the  French  were  restricted  to  the  small 
islands  of  St.  Pierre  and  Micpielon,  but  not  allowed  to  nvd 
fortifications  of  any  kind. 

Besides  the  English  and  the  French,  tlie  Americans  al>" 
have  the  ri<:j:ht  to  fish  on  the  baidcs  of  Newfoundland.  l'"i' 
when  England  acknowledged  the  independence  of  the  Unitiil 
States,   a  formal   article  of  fh<»  treaty  of  peace    secured  t' 


I'.ANKS    or    Ni:\VF(»rM»L.\XI». 


44/ 


llUtl- 

i\  th- 
,  aii'l 
'JS  Itv 


the  liitttT  the   ii.sliiiii,'  itrivik'<^cs  wliirli  they  luul   iin'vicii^ly 


icans  al- 
lllau'l.  t'"V 
lie  Tnit'''^ 
lec^u'otl  tc 


(.•ii|ny«'U  as  cidoriit'S. 

Tho  value  of  llu'  dry  cocl-fish  al<»iu'  expoiictl  t'Vorv  \ car  t'n>iii 
N't'wlbuiullaiul  is  uii  an  avi'i-a;iio  about  l<M>,(KM>/.,  wliili-  tlu* 
total  valuo  of  the  oxporteil  produetiitus  in  lisli,  oil,  and  skins, 
is  niiwards  of  70(),(MM»/.  This,  from  a  poi»ulation  c>f  iSi».<Mi(i  or 
'.td.OIMI,  proves  lliat  tlie  |K>ople  ofllic  island  oui^lit  to  be  liai>i»y 
iiiid  pr(»speruus  ;  but  unfortunately  a  system  of  eredit  rendt.'rs 
tlie  bulk  of  the  tisliermen  entirely  dei>endenl  on  the  merchants, 
and  want  of  e<lueation  is  a  further  souree  of  evil. 

Th(Mit;h  vast  (juantities  of  eod  are  taken  alon;^'  the  shores 
uf  Newfoundland,  yt't  the  m<»st  inqtortant  lisherv  is  earrie<l  on 
oil  the  banks  at  some  distance  frtun  the  island. 

The  yreat  bank  lies  liO  leaufues  from  the  nearest  ]ioint  of 
land  from  latitude  41°  to  10°,  and  extends  oOO  miles  in  len^-lh 
iiiid  75  in  breadth.  To  the  east  of  this  lies  the  False  Bank; 
the  next  is  styled  the  Green  Bank,  al)out  2M>  miles  hmLi' 
;nid  120  V>road  ;  then  Bancjuero,  about  the  same  si/e,  with 
sfveral  other  shoals  of  less  note,  all  abonndinii'  with  fish,  bui. 
iliietly  Avith  eod,  the  yreat  maj^'uet  Avhieli  sets  whole  tleets  in 
motion.  In  winter  the  eod  retire  to  the  deeper  waters,  but 
tlicy  reappear  in  March  and  Ajtril,  wIr-u  their  i»ursuers 
hasten  to  the  spot,  not  only  fnun  the  bays  and  loves  of 
Xfwfomidland  but  from  CJreat  Britain,  the  United  .States, 
uiiil  Friince. 

While  iishino-,  each  man  has  a  space  three  feet  and  a  half 
witle  allotted  to  him  on  deck,  so  as  not  to  interfere  with 
his  iit'io-hbonr.  The  lines  are  from  •'»<)  to  k>  fathoms  loti*^  — 
fnv  the  eod  cjenerallv  swims  at  that  dei)th.  The  (diief  baits 
nst'd  are  the  squid,  a  species  of  cuttle-lish,  inul  the  caiicliu, 
a  small   salmon  abonndinn*  on  the    X<>rth-Ameriean  coasts. 


The  herrinjjr  and  the  laui 


let' 


Hid   a  slicU-lish    called   clam, 


u» 


\vlii(li  is  found  iu  the  b(dly  of  the  cdd.  are  likewise  nsed. 
Ill  spriuf*'  particularly  the  end  rnslu's  so  ea'^erly  upon  the 
halt,  that  iu  the  course  of  a  sin^i'Ie  day  a  i^mxl  ti^lu  rnian  is 
iihh-  to  haul  np  four  hundred  one  alter  another.  This  is  i 
'  ii>,v  task,  considering-  the  size  of  the  fish,  which  on  an  avera;_;e 
^vt'i^jis  14  pounds,  but  lias  been  taken  four  feet  three  inches 
1"1il:'.  and  4(>  pounds  in  wei^-ht.  When  a  larue  tish,  to(. 
h^uw  Ibr  the  line,  has  been   c.iu^ht,  the  tisherman  calls  on 


44G 


Till-:    rOI.AR    WORM). 


his  iit'i<^lil)uiir,  who  strikes  ii  hook  attiit-hod  to  a  lon^-  jm.Ic 
into  the  hsli,  iiiul  then  Siitely  hauls  it  on  hoanl. 

Miiultiil  oCtlie  proverb  wliieh  reconimencls  us  all  to  stiike 
Avhile  the  iron  is  hot,  the  fishermen  continue  to  catch  cid 
for  hours,  until  so  many  iire  hea])ed  on  the  tleck,  thai  t.. 
make  room  it  becomes  necessary  to  'dress them  down.'  Tlii:> 
is  done  on  lonj^'  planks  made  to  lest  with  both  ends  (mi  lud 
casks,  ami  thus  forming  a  narrow  table.  First,  each  niiiii  cut-: 
t>ut  the  tongues  of  the  fish  he  has  caught,  as  his  wjigcs  iiif 
reckoned  by  their  number,  and  then  the  whole  crew  dividt; 
tluMnselvos  into  t/iroaterft,  headers,  splltterK,  Kdltvrx,  and  jmrk,  ,x. 
The  throater  begins  the  openition  of  '  dri'ssing* '  by  dniwiii:,'' 
his  knife  across  the  throat  of  the  cod  to  the  bone  iiml 
ripping  open  the  bowels.  He  then  passes  it  to  the  liciidcr. 
wdio  with  a  strong  wrench  pulls  off  the  head  and  tiMi-s 
out  the  entrails,  which  he  casts  overboard,  jtassing  t]|,. 
fish  at  the  same  time  to  the  splitter,  who  with  one  eut  Invs 
it  open  from  head  to  tail,  and  almost  in  the  twinkling-  dl' 
an  eye  with  another  cut  takes  out  the  backbone.  Altci- 
separating-  the  sounds,  which  are  placed  with  the  tongues 
and  packed  in  barrels  iis  a  delicacy,  the  backbone  t'nl- 
lows  the  entrails  overboard,  while  the  fish  at  the  sniu,- 
moment  is  passed  with  the  other  hand  to  the  salter.  Such 
is  the  amazing-  quickness  of  the  operations  of  heading  ami 
splitting,  thiit  a  good  workman  will  often  decapitate  and 
take  out  the  entrails  and  backbone  of  six  fish  in  a  ininuli'. 
Every  fisherman  is  supposed  to  know"  something-  of  eaeli  nt 
these  operations,  an<l  no  rivals  at  cricket  ever  entered  with 
more  ardour  into  their  work  than  <lo  some  athletic  chamjai mis 
for  the  palm  of  ■•  di'essing-  down  '  after  a  '  day's  catch.' 

(Jenerally  the  fog  is  so  dense,  that  one  ship  does  not  ste 
the  other,  although  both  may  bo  so  near,  that  the  crows 
distinctly  hear  each  others'  voices.  Frequently  one  is  liardiv 
able  to  see  to  the  distance  of  a  few  feet,  and  the  large  drnjis 
of  the  condensed  mist  fall  like  rain  from  the  yards.  During; 
calm  weather  the  aspect  of  the  sea  is  so  dismal,  that  it  n  - 
(piires  all  the  buoyant  spirits  of  a  seaman  to  resist  its  depres- 
sing influence.  For  diiys  the  calm  remains  inibroken,  and  ii" 
sound  is  heard  but  that  of  a  fish  darting  out  of  the  watei',  ei 
the  screech  of  a  sea-bird  flitting  over  the  sea.     liul   souk  - 


DAXCJKUS    OF   TIIK    COD-FISH KliV. 


44: 


liiiics  II  storm  breaks  tliis  nwl'iil  siloiicc  of  niitui-( 


At 


such 


tiiiit'S  tho  tislnn«j:  sliii»s,  huUU'ii  in  mists,  run  tlu>  ^jTcatcst 
(hiii^'cr  of  strikin;;-  aLjiiinst  each  other,  alth(»ii<j;li  siL^-iial  lan- 
tt'iiis  and  alarm  trumnets  are  used  to  <>-ive  warninii'.  A 
tniiiend(Mis  wave  burstiu^f  on  the  deek  often  strikes  them 
with  sueli  tovceas  to  sink  theniorchish  tlieni  to  picn-esa^'ainst 
ill!"  rocky  ooist.  Thus  many  a  widow  and  orplian  has  a 
iiidUi'nful  tale  to  relate  of  the  dan'^^ers  of  the  c<)d-llsherv  on 
till'  l)anks  of  Newfoundland. 

In  some  parts  of  the  coast  where  tlu>  water  is  snlHcii'utly 
sliallow,    the    C(»d-tish    are    now   cau^'ht    in    sieves    or    nets. 


his  o 


perat 


ion  recpiires  more  cap 


lital  t 


o  commence  avi 


tht 


lan 


the  mere  boat  and  hooks  and  lines  of  tlu>  common  lishermen, 
;iii(l  like  all  improvements  met  at  first  with  much  opposition, 
(111  the  plea  that  it  must  interfere  with  the  interests  of  the 
|Miiiivr  class.  It  is  obvions  however  that  the  use  of  the  net  is 
ii'lvanta<^eous  to  the  trade  at  laru'e,  for  shoals,  or  as  they  are 
ti'viaed  '  scho(»ls,'  of  lish  may  sometimes  be  seen  sweepin;4- 
iilmi^- shore,  which,  but  for  the  net,  would  escape  alto^^-ether. 
Ik'sides  there  seems  such  an  incalculable  abundance  of  tlx; 
tisli,  that  there  will  always  be  enoun'h  to  hook,  enou;Lj;'h  to 
ji::-.  I'uoui^'h  to  net,  and  nn>re  than  enou^^h  to  <4"o  away. 

•()ne  calm  Julv  evenin»»- '  savs  Mr.  Juices,"^  'I  was  in  a 
Imiit  just  outside  St.  John's  harbour,  when  the  sea  was  pretty 
still,  vind  the  tish  were   "  breachin«i^,"  as   it   is   termed.      For 


M'vrra 


1   mil 


es  around   us 


the  calm  sea.  was  alive  with   lish 


Tlhv  were  sporting'  on  the  sui'face  of  the  water,  flirting- their 
tails  occasionally  into  the  air,  and  as  far  as  could  be  seen  the 
water  was  rippled  and  broken  by  their  nK)vements.  FiOokin;;' 
'luwii  into  its  clear  depths,  cod-fish  under  cod-lish  of  all  sizes 
,i|>[irared  swinvininfif  al)out  as  if  in  sport.  Some  boats  were 
ti>liiii^',  but  not  a  bite  could  they  yet,  the  (ish  beini4-  already 
uni-ned  with  food.  Had  the  <4'round  been  shallow  enough  to 
use  nets,  the  harbour  mi^i-ht  have  been  filled  with  fish.'' 

Besides  the  cod-fishery,  seal-catchinn-  is  also  carried  on 
with  (  onsiderablo  success  on  the  eastern  cttast,  which  inter- 
"pts  many  immense  iieMs  and  islands  of  ice  as  they  mov<' 
^"Utliwards  in  the  sprin;^-  from  the  Arctic  Sea.     The  interior 


*  ■  l')xcur>i'iii-  in  Ni  wt'iiuiiillaiiil. 


•n« 


TlIK    I'OL.Mf    \V()I{|,1>. 


|>urt.s  of  tlicsc  drifting  sliouls.  with  tli<'  lakt'.s  or  Oj>t'niii<:,s 
iiit<'r.s})('r.se(l,  rcniiiiii  uiibrokeii,  iui<l  on  them  mvriiids  >,( 
HCiils  may  be  fbiiiid.  in  tin;  nn)nth  of  Maivh  or  April,  iis 
.soon  as  tlie  icc-fl^'lds  descond  with  tli«'  currents  from  Davis' 
.Straits,  many  small  ships,  not  only  frojn  the  harbours  oflli..' 
cast  coast  of  Newfoundland  but  even  froui  the  distant  .Scotili 
ports,  particularly  Aberdeen,  put  out  to  sea  and  boldly  jilmi:;-.' 
into  nil  the  (»penin^s  of  the  ice-lields  to  nuike  war  u]»('ii  tin- 
seals.  Armed  with  firelocks  and  heavv  blud<;eons  the  crews 
sur[»rise  the  animals  on  the  ice.  In  this  way  thousands  nw 
killed  yearly  from  the  north,  but  their  nundjers  have  lattiih 
decreased,  and  the  seal  catchers  pay  the  penalty  of  tlioir 
heedless  and  indiscriminate  slau^htei". 


Red  Bi  easied  Mc-itraiiier. 


'  "'•■ra.f,.^ 


''  '■"    Hink.) 


jl""" '■■-'"-"is  7V    r:*?'™ '•">-- -r„.,M,  . 

".iiKs— LiiK  ,.,)o«-     'CI,     o  ■' '"""'''ifioii  .,(' <;,   1,1      ,         '""'.III 

'^  ;'--'''-l  -The  G^.:,,;  ,^";--'>y-C,avonn,  J,      '^t^^^ 

, "-' -- -■  "-:::;^:t::^^^ 

,:;■";:«-  of  the  a;:;  t,r '-  -^  y.^  ,„„,,  ,„„,.,.,^,^,,, 

''''■'  ''"'^'  l.a,   l2       .'''"'^'"■■■ffen  ,,ml  Xovu-.  y      ,      '"  ''^ 

'iivoiii..    1  '"'     '^''ico    boon   ri,^4^        •        '  "''><!  rroin 

""•"  '•'""  -"•)  nr.i  .,„-,•,•        """'  ""•  ''->"«'^'r 


450 


TiiK  roF,.\i{  \V(tin,i). 


in  spiic  of  iill  tlio  jittonipts  made  sIiicl-  that  tiiiic  to  cirfum- 
)iuvi<j^at(j  it.  The  interior  of  the  island — or  eontinenl  a>  it 
may  perhaps  more  jnstly  be  calh'd,  I'or  it  has  a  surface  i<\' 
at  least  7.')0,(MM)  square  miles,  and  is  probably  laipr  tlnin 
Australia — is  also  unknown;  for  of  this  vast  extent  of  ten  i- 
tory  only  tin;  narrow  shor«  s  of  tlu!  coast-line  seemed  \i,  ]>,• 

man.     ()n  penetratinu'  intu 


ble  t 


o 


inhabitable,  or  even  aeeessi 
the  deeper  fjords,  all  the  valleys  are  found  blocked  with 
<j;'laciers,  Avhicli,  on  climbin<^  the  heij^'hts,  are  se<>n  to  p;i,NS 
into  a  monotonous  plateau  of  ice,  or  neve,  whicdi  sccuk  Ik 
cover  and  conceal  the  whole  interior.  Thus,  fnnn  its  [>h\- 
sical  conti^-uration,  (jlreenland may  well  be  called  a  mysUridiH 
rey;ion  ;  and,  straufj^*?  to  say,  the  history  of  the  decline  uinl 
fall  of  its  lirst  colonists  is  as  little  known  as  its  <^e(»^-rai>hv. 


AVe  have  seen  in  a  previous  chapter  that  Iceland,  so] 


leilcr. 


ful  in  the   present  tlay,  was  peopled   in   the   ninth  centun 
Avith  a  hi^hlv  turbul  nt  race  of  iarls  and  vikin 


LTS. 


OlR" 


these  worthies,  called  Erik  llauda,  or  the  Red,  haviii<„'  twin. 
dyed  his  hands  Avith  blood,  Avas  banished  l)y  the  Altliin: 
(!*S2)  for  a  term  of  years,  and  resolved  to  pass  the  tiuic  <.i 
his  compulsory  absence  in  ex[»lorin<j;'  the  land  discevrn! 
by  (iliinnbjorn.  After  spendin<^'  three  years  on  its  Avestn:; 
coasts,  he  returned  to  Iceland,  and  made  so  favonralilo  ii 
report  of  the  new  c(»untrv,  Avhich — knoAvin^'  the  advaiitiii;v^ 
of  a  i^-ood  name — he  called  (Ireenland,  that  in  I>S<)  he  imlikvil 
a  lar^e  Ijody  of  colonists  to  sail  Avith  him  and  settle  tlniv. 
Other  emi;irants  folloAved,  and  in  a,  few  years  all  the  liaM:- 
able  places  of  southern  Greeidand  Avere  occupied. 

The  C(dony,  Avhich  soon  after  its  finnidation  adctjited  tii 
Christian  reliji-ion,  Avas  divided  into  two  districts  or  'bvnil> 
(from  the  Icelandic  '  by<4"^ia  '  to  inhabit),  by  an  intervciiin:' 
tract  of  land  named  Uby<^(l,  the  'uninhabitable'  or  "ii!- 
inhiibited.'  The  West  Uyj^d  reached  from  lat.  (WT  ddwn  t" 
ii'2\  and  contained,  in  its  best  days,  IM>  farms  and  4  chl^rIll^ 
South  of  it  lay  the  desert,  '  Uby^^d,'  of  70  <TfeoLrra|ilm:il 
miles,  terminated  by  the  East  Byu'd,  consistintr  of  l!H»  lliri 
and  havinji-  2  towns.  (Jardar  and  Alba,  1  cathedral,  an  i  ll| 
churches.  The  Avhole  po])ulation  may  probably  have  jiniouiit. 
to  <»,(M»0  souls.  The  country  Avas  g-overned  by  Iceliiii'li'i 
laws,   and    tlu^    first    of   its   eighteen    bishops,   Arnold. 


Ill 


■■in 


SCANDINAVIAN    COl.ONI I.S    IN    <i !{I;i:NI,AM». 


4/1 


ewtn- 
•.v>  It 

'   \\\;\u 
'  tfvvl- 
\i\  111' 

,\  with 

ill    \iU>> 

its  v^^^- 
^•sU'vinus 

lint'  11  nil 

so  \n'iV''- 

One  "'^ 
nui:  twin' 

lu>   lull''  "1 
,\\.^,MiYi'Vr>l 

ij^    W*'St«'V- 

ivuiival'l''  ■'' 
ulviu\tu-_"- 
In'  intliH'v'l 
.till'  tlKf. 
tilt'  li.i^'i"- 

liut»'vvii»"'-'l 

Ik;"  a.)Nvn  \"\ 

IvaU  auAU! 


cli'cicd  in  11l!1.  tlic  last  bcinu:  l"iii<lriil(»  AiMliVii-icii.  wlio 
AMIS  ('Miis<'oratf(l  ill  1  |o(;.  In  sjiitc  df  its  jtovt-rfy  itml  dis- 
faiict',  (Ji'cciilainl  was  oldiy-fd  to  (•(mtrilmte  its  mite  to  tln» 
n'Vi'inn's  <it"  till'  pai)al  chair,  for  wo  rcatl  in  tlu'  ancient 
aiuialists,  that,  in  1  -Vli't,  its  tril>nt(>,  consisting'  of  wah'ns  teeth, 
\v;is  sold  hy  the  po]>e's  a;^ent,  IJcrtrani  of  (Jrtolis,  to  a  nier- 
ilniiit  of  Flanders  for  the  snni  of  I  li  livres  and  1  I  sons. 

The  time,  however,  was   now  fast   a|>[tro;irhin'_;-  wIimi   the 

(lii.'idand  colonv  was  not  onlv  to  c<,'ase  i>avin<'  tithes   juiil 

I'fter's  pence,  hnt  to  Ik*  swept  away.      Dnrin^-  the  conrse  of 

ilic  i'onrtoonth  centnry  it  was  visited  hy  one  niitfi'ortnne  after 

.metlier.      The   black   death,    whicdi  carrie<l   off  twenty-five 

millions    of    Europeans,   did    not    spiiro    its    distant    fjords 

111^  0)  ;  the  Estpiinninx   harassed   the   snrvivors  with   re- 

]i.',ited    atta(d\s,    Ivillin^    some,    and    carryin;^    away   others 

;!]iiive.     A  hostile  fleet,  snspe('fe<l  to  he  I'hiLi'lish,  laid  waste 

•lio  ti.\niti'y  in  MbS;  and  finally,  the  revolutions  and   wars 

which   Imdx'e  out  in    Scandinavia  after  the  death  of  (^neeii 

Mar^;;aret   of   U'aldennir,   caused  (Jreeidaml    to    \)o   entirely 

in'tilccted  and  for^ott<Mi.     The  last  colonists  either  retreated 

\<>  Iceland,  or  were  destroyed  hy  the  l']s(piiinau.\,  and  many 


\''ars 


<dapsed  hefero  (Jreeidand  was  at^'ain  thought  of 


as 


lii-e  where  Scandinavians  had  once  been  living".  At  len;.',th, 
;i,,o-  Frederic  II.  of  Denunirk  S(Mit  out  I\Io;^rens  ITeineson, 
:  famous  '•sea-cock'   as  the  chroni(ders  style   him,  1o  the 

I'ltli-eastern  coast  of  (ireenland  (loiSl),  fo  see  if  men  of 
1  Xerse  oriij;-in  still  dwelt  alon;j^  those  ice-l>onnd  tjords. 
Hiiiii'son  reached  the  coast,  but  the  ^reat  transjiari  ncy  of 
'ni'air,  which  in  the  I\dar  reunions  frequently  causes  stran^-e 
•I'ticiil  delusions,  led  him  into  a  sint^ular  ermr.  Afler 
!:;iviu^-  sailed  for  many  lionrs  in  the  same  direction,  and  still 

■'iiin-  the  mountains  which  s-'omed  (piite  near  recede  ;is  lie 
alvaiiced,  he  fancied  himself  fettered  by  an  invisible  pow.-r, 
ml  tliiis  the  fannnis  'sea-cock'  returned  home  with  tlf 
!'i"irt   that,  detained  bv  a  niau'iif'tic  rock,  he   had  not   been 


ill'  to  re.ich  the  land. 

Ill  l()(l."),  Kin^-  Christian   IV.  of  Denmark  sent  out  a  new 
L> aiuevwto'lBilroeuland  expedition,  consistini,'  (tf  three  ships,  under  the 


A(vne\'b  «"^ 


mniiand  of  Godske  Lindenow.  and  the!  ^niidance  of  .lames 
ill,   an    Euo-lish     i»i!<>t.       This    time    no    niaj^'netic    rocks 


4/!2 


•rup.  Vii\.\R  wonuK 


iiilrrvriicd  ;   l)iit   Ili(«  s1ii|»s  liiiviii^' 8(')tiiru<<'<l,  ir:ill  liiiMlfil  dii 
tin-  Wi'st  ('f»iiKt,  Aviiicli  Iiiul    iilrciidy   Ixwii  rcdist'ovn'c*!    iiiul 
visijcd   hy    Oiivis,   HihIhoii,    naffiii,   iind   oUicr   Avf-rm   imvi 
}^iitii>rs;  wliilo  Lindciiow,  iiiicliorin^' ofl'  ('ii|M'  KiirfAvcIl,  ki.| 
nnpiK'd  two  I'Lsquiinnux,  who  ;ir<t'rwiir<ls  died  of  nosjid^'iii  in 
DcMiiiiirk.      But  iicitlu'r  Jjiidoiiow,  nlio  llic  y«>iir  iil'lt'i*  iiti;iiii 
niiid*'  luH  ii]>|>oaranc«'  on    <lio    wcsltTii   roasl,  of  (ircoidiiiid 
nf>r   two    later  ox]>('diiioiis    iiialcv  Carsicn  Kiiliardson   ;iii<l 
DaimcU,  were  able  1o  ed'oc't  a   landing  on  any  pad   ol'  tli, 
♦'asti'vn  const.     Tt  was   in   si^lit,  but  ilic  drift-it'*'  made  i' 
inaccossil)I('.     Tlicy  were  equally  inisuceossful  in  flndin;;' iiii\ 
traces  of  tlio  lost  colony,  wliichcame  atlen<4tli  to  l»e  rejjfaidiii 
as  a.  mere  Hcaiuliiiavian  niytli.      l>iit  while  no  one  else  Ciucl 
about,  its  <'xistenc(»,  the  ardent   lla)is   Ej^^ede  (born  in  Xm- 
way,  January    ;$! ,   1('>S({),  pastor  of  Vaa^'e,  in  the   Lofoten 
Islands,   still   continut'd   to  cherish    its   nuMiiory.       He  liml 
read    in    the    ancient    chronicl(»s    about    the    old    CMiristinn 
communities  in  Greenland,  and  could  not  believe   in  tluii 
total  extinction.      ITe  felt  the  deepest  concern  in  the  fate  it 
their  descendants,  and  the  thou<^ht   that  after   so    loni;  ii 
separation  from    the    mother  country    they  ninst  needs  li 
pinniped  in  barbarism  and  heathen  darkness,  left  him  no  n> 
by  ni^ht  or  day.     At  lenofth  he  resolved  to  devote  his  lif'o  t' 
their  spiritual  welfare,  and  to  become  the  npostle  of  rciliv 
covered  or  ref>encrated  Ciroenland.     His  zeal  and  persevn 
ance  overcame  a  thousand  difHcidties.     Neither  the  piiMk 
ridicule,    nor    the  coldness  of  the  authorities  to  ■whom  Ii 
vainly  applied    for  assistance,    nor   the  exhortations  of  Iii> 
friends,  could  damp  his  ardonr.     At  leno^th,  after  years  ii 
fruitless  endeavours,    after  having'  given  up  his  livin»4'  mil 
sacrificed  his  little  fortune  in  the  prosecution  of  his  plaii.^.  Ii' 
succeeded  in  forming  a  Greenland  Company,  with  a  e;ipit  i! 
of  9,000  dollars,  and  in  obtaininjif  an  annual  stipend  I'lcia 
the  Danish  Missionary  Fund  of  5}00  dollars,  to  which  Kin:' 
Frederick  IV.    added   a   gift  of  200    dollars.      With  tliiv? 
ships,  the  largest  of  which,  '  The  Hope,'  had  forty  ccdonisl 
board,  Egede,  accompanied  by  his  Avife  and  fonr  chikhvii, ^i 
sail  from  the  port  of  Bergen  on  May  12,  1721,  and  reiielu 
Greenland  on  July  8,  after  a  long  and  tedious  passage,    ii' 
Avinds  had  driA^en  him  to  the  western  coast,  in  latitude  <il 


IICI' 


Htii 


Hills   ij 
'■'t^'iji. 


HANS    IKiKDK. 


4.5  J 


\u\r\\  oil 
io   u;ivi 

,tl\V^Mil   HI 

Id*  ;i'4'.iii' 
ivonV.iii'l 
ilsou  '.iii'l 
vl  ».V  tli' 
,.  nv.\A»'  '' 
luVui'^"  !lll} 

I'u  ill  N"i- 

Ho  lia'l 

i    Cbvistiiiii 

■vo  in  t^i''" 
,  tlio  t';iti'  "i 

.    so    lt»11r  '' 
st  needs  l"' 
hiin  ii«>  1'*  ^' 
0  liis  VitV  !■ 
,tlo  of  veAi>- 
lul  pcvscvcv- 
Iv  the  pnlili' 
o  wlioin  li' 
litioiis  of  lii> 
■tor  years 'I'l 
is  Uviii*^-  nii'l 
his  plnvis.li' 
itli  a  ciiritai 
Istipeiul  lV"ii 
which  Ki'i^l 
With  tluvj 
Ivcohniisls'ii 
chiWvi'ii.^' 
luid  verti'l"- 
lasssVfi-e.    ^i' 
iutiiua.'t'' 


;iiiil  lu'ff  lit'  n'solvrd  iit  oiiff  ti»  lK';^'iii  Ills  cviiiitJii'li'Ml  IwImmu's 
with  llie  l*iS(iiiiiii!iii\.  A  wooden  cliiiiM'l  was  s|M'L'(lily  eri'dt'd, 
wliifli  formed  the  linst  nueh.'us  of  the  slill  existin;j;  xrttlemciit 
>>['  (iodtlliMll). 

I'.iit  if  111*'  lift'  of  the  woi-lliy  K'^cdc  liiid  foi*  miiiiy  a  year 
lni'ii  fidl  of  troidtlc  lu'fore  he  wi'iit  (o  (irt'cnlaiid,  triiils  islill 
iiKUf  si'Voro  awaitt'd  liiiii  diiriii;^-  liis  aiMisloIicuI  can-cr.     Jio 
li;iil  ii()i  merely  tlie  .su.s[>icioiis  of  <lie  Ksquimaux,  Ihe  »'iimity 
uf  tlit'ir  medicinc-meii,  tJic  sev«'rily  of  the  climate,  and  n(»t 
x'ldom  even  faiiiiiu'  to  contend  wilh.     His  own  foniitrymcn, 
.lisiippoinled  in  tlicir  hopes  of  carrying  on  a.  hicrative  tradi? 
with    the  CJroonlanders,  resolved  to  abandon  it  alt(»^;etlK'r, 
,ii;.I,  after  ten  lal»(»rious  years,  the  (jlovernnuMit  nut  oidy  with- 
(hvw    all    furtliei'   assistance    from   the    mission,    hut    even 
nidcicd  the  colony  to  be  broken  up.     All  his  com|tanions, 
uitli  the  exception  of  a  few  volunteers  who  en<^'a<jfcd  to  share 
his  forttmes,  now  returned  to  Denmark;  but  Ey-ede,  Ihout^h 
liis  health    had    been    so  shattered  by  almost   snperhuman 
ix(iti(tns,  that  he  had  lon;^  since  been  obli<,'ed  to  leave  all 
iitive  duties  to  his  son,  resolved,  like  a,  faithful  soldier,  to  die 
lit  ]iis    i)<)st.     In  17:>'{,  his  perseverance  was  at  lenn;th   re- 
warded by  the  <;Tateful  news  that  the  kin^-,  at  the  entreaty  of 
ijuuit  Zinzendorf,  the  founder  of  Jlerrenhnth,  had  consented 
t'l  hcstow  an  annual  ^^rant  of  2,000  dollars  on  the  CJreenland 
mission,  and  that  three  Moravian  brothers  had   arrived  to 
assist  him   in   his  work.     Thus  he   could  at  lenjj^th  (I Too) 
ii'liiru  with  a  <piiet  heart  to  his  native  comitry,  where  he 
'lioil  universally  re<j;retted  in  1  758,  at  the  a^e  of  seventy-two. 
It  iiia\'  easily  be  snpposed,  that  durinj^  his  h)n<^  stay  in 
•  iiecnland  he  anxiously  sought  the  traces  of  his  lost  coun- 
tniuL'M,  for  the  desire  to  help  them  had  first  led  him  to  that 
Arctic  country.     Nothinjjf  in  the  physio^'nomy  of  the  Esqui- 
[iiuiux,  or  in  their  lan^^uage,  pointed  in  any  way  to  an  Euro- 
au  (irii^in,  and  even  then-  traditions  said  not  a  word  of  the 
I "U  Xorse  settlers,  who  had  once  inhabited  the  land.     The 
luiiis  of  some  churches,  and  other  buildinys  scattered  hero 
and  there  aIonj|  the  west  coast,  alone  attested  their  exist- 
liiicc,  ;iiid  formed  a  link  betw-een  the  past  and  tlie  present. 
I'llius   if  (Jreenland    still    had  inhabitants   of  Scandinavian 
'I'i^'iii.   thev   must    lu'cessarilv   be    confined   to  the    eastern 


454 


Tin:  i'oi.Ai:  woiii.n. 


const,  l)('yo!i(l  ('iijM>  iMircwcll.  Itiit  l'];,n'»lt' was  iis  litiU'  !ili|r,i> 
liis  |>r('(l('('«'.ssi»rs  In  |»«iK'tniti'  thrnKM^h  tln>  l(M'-b<'It  wlii.li. 
)»otli  l»v  liiiid  iiiul  sou,  coniplt'lt'l)'  H»'[)aiatf«l  it  IVuiii  tli"  ii  st 


<) 


n 


H'  \v(»r 


1.1. 


For  uiiiiiy  yrnvA  after  his  <lt'uth  it  ri'iuainc*!  tiiiknown  inul 
iiiact'i'SHiltit' ;  and  liiiwciioni,  who  was  siiil  out  in  I7m!-n7 
to  ii'iicw  the  attempts  of  llrincsoii  and  Linch'How,  lonl  un 
l)t'ttrv  MiiceesH.  No  (h)nht  many  a  whiilcr  may  have  ti<hiiii--il 
its  distant  mountain  peaks  ^dowin^'  in  the  eveninij;  sun.  or 
may  liave  been  driven  by  the  storm  ai,Miiist  ils  shores,  hut  lln' 
Scoreshvs  W"re  tlie  tirst  to  determine  accurately  the  iKisitidM 
of  part  of  its  widl-feneed  coast.  lu  the  year  |SI7,  (';i|it;ii!i 
Scoreshy  tlie  elder,  <h'viatin;x  fi'*>m  the  usual  course  of  t!' • 
■whalers,  steered  throU'di  the   western   ice,  and  reaclitil  th" 


east  coast  (»f  (nvenlaud,  l)evoud  "<> 


ih 


cou 


id 


easily  Iii\ 


landed  ;   the  coast   which  had  so  fri'(iuently  liailled  tin'  w- 
tomiits  of  jnwious  navi;xii^<'i'''  hiy  iiivitiuijfly  hi'fore  hiui.  li,' 


1 


je  CO 


uld  not  sacrilice  his  dutv  as  the  commander  of  a 


Willi!'!' 


to  curiosity  or  renown.  And  thus  without  haviui,'  m1  I 
foot  on  sh<»re,  he  ailed  hack  into  tlie  open  sea.  On  ;i  hit 
visit,  however,  he  landed  in  the  sound  whifdi  lte;irs  his  iiui 


rV 


III' 


I'l'. 


In  tho  year  1S22,  Scoreshy  the  youn^'er  snci-ecdcd  in  in 
cdosely  examining-  the  land.  Leaving'  tho  usual  track  of  tin' 
■whalers,  he  had  steered  to  the  west,  and  threadi'd  liis  \\;i\ 
throu<4'h  the  drift-ico  until  between  7(l°  •»'"•'  and  71  \-'  N. 
hit.  the  coast  of  Greenland  lay  before  him.  No  coast  tlii' 
lie  had  ever  s(!en  before  had  so  majestic  a  character.  Tl' 
mountains,  on  which  lu?  bestowed  tin'  laune  of  Koscec,  co'i- 
sisted  «)f  nund)erless  jao-<^'ed  stones  or  pyramids,  risiu;^'  in 
individual  peaks  to  a  height  of  i>,()(M)  feet,  and  a  cliaos  «( 
sharp  ne(.'dles  ct>vered  their  rou^-h  declivitii's. 

On  July  21,  he  landed  on  a  rooky  in'omontory,  which  l<' 
named  Ci\\)0  Lister  (7<>^  oO'),  and  olimbiii<4,'  its  summit  cuii- 
tinued  his   excursion    ahui;^    its   back,  which  was    l)ct)Vi,vii| 
tlireo  and  four  liundred  loot  hi^h.     Here  and  there  lictvcu 
the  stones,  which  were  either  naked  or  thinly  clotlicil  witlij 
lichens,  Woomed  an  AmJromedd  tetraffuna,  n  Sa.vljhu/K  t>\>ii> 
tlfolia,  a  V(i paver  vHdlaiiilc,  or   a    liammculiis    in'ralis,    At| 
Cape  Swainson  ho  a<^aiu  descended  to  the  shore,  whicli  li'i'''! 
formed  a  Hat  strand,  about  (}<M>  foot  broad.     Some  dcsoiti 


rtioia>iiv  I.N  t.i{i:i;M.vM». 


^-..i 


wli'bll. 

wn  iiii'l 

17m1-^7 

liiiil  ii'i 

Mill,  or 

i,  bill  til-' 

jxtsitii'ii 

(";il.t;im 

St'    til'   tl'.i' 

jsily  ln\  ■ 
a  ih'  a'- 
•  l\iin,  but 

r  ;l  wlllll'T 
l.f    j^ct    lli- 

l)n  ;i  liit'i' 

bis  iiaiii''. 

,1  in  111"'" 

',,.•!<  .'ft!r 

71     12'  N. 

roust  lliii' 

»S('Ol',    (•"!'- 

visui'i  i" 
III   rhui.s  "t 

ubicb  1'' 
liumit  con- 
Is     llL'tWO'llj 

^'O    bt'tWtvU 

l.tb^•.l^^i'lM 

Ivbicb  li''i"''| 
le  (b.'Sort'"ll 


Iv'iiniimiux  huts  soon  nn'<'st<'(l  his  attrnlion.  Cbnrntl  tlrift- 
wimmI  iiiiii  a  <iMinitity  of  iishcs  lay  scuttfrtMl  aboiii  tho 
liiMi'tlis,  atxl  ih'ovimI  that  thrsf  (Iwt'HiiMrs  hail  iiot  btcn  bni'' 
Inisakcu.  Scarcely  a  binl  was  to  be  sfcii  on  lainb  but 
ccinitlcss  auks  and  tlivcrs  auiniatctl  the  waters.  A  j^^reat 
iiiiiiiber  of  wiu^'eil  insects  buttertlies,  bees,  niusquitot  s  — 
lli'u  or  bu//eil  about,  |>articulai*Iy  on  the  hillocks  beh\. 'cn 
flic  stones.  Un  July  -•">,  he  uiu-t!  more  laialeil  on  ('ai>e 
Ib'pe,  whei'e  he  a<,'ain  f'ountl  traces  of  inhabitan's.  H(»iies 
dl'liares  and  fraij;nients  of  reiinleer-horns  lay  s<Mittere<l  about 
nil  ilic  ;;roini<l.  The  skull  of  a,  (lo<,'  was  |»lante(l  on  a  small 
iiKiui.il  of  earth,  for  it  is  a  belit'f  of  the  (iroenlaud  Ksijuimaux 
that  the  (lo'%  who  linds  his  wa v  <'vervwhere,  must  nercssaiily 
111-  the  best  f^^uido  (»f  the  innocent  chiMreu  to  the  land  of 
Miiils.  The  heat,  whi(di  8o(»n  put  an  end  to  this  excursion, 
was  so  ;;reat,  that  many  of  the  plants  liad  shed  their  seeds, 
mill  some  were  already  comitletely  dried  up  and  shrividleil. 

The  part  of  the  coast  of  Kast   Greenland    discovered   by 
Scoresby,   and   that   which    was    visited    the    year    afler    by 
t'iavcriiij^',  lay,  however,  t<»o  far  tt>  tlie  north  to  atford  any 
rhii'  about  the  extinct  Scandinavian  settlements,  even  sup- 
I'Hsiii^' them,  as  was  then  still   believed,  to  Inive   been  partly 
>itiuitcd   to  tho  east  of  Cape  Farewtdl.     At  len;Lj:th,   in   tho 
y  ar  is^i),  Captain  Craah,  who  had  been  sent  out  by  Kin;j; 
Fivdciic'k  VI.  of  Denmark,  succeeded  in  explorint^  the  S(»uth- 
•  a-stcrn  roast  of  (Ireenland,  from  its  southern  extremity  lo 
till'  latituth.'  of  (>o°  18'    beyon<l  which  no  colony  could  cvi'r 
liuvc  existed;  an<l  as  he  nowliere  found  either  the  most  insin'- 
iiiticant  ruins,  or  the    least    traces  of  an  ancient  Christian 
■^"ttlcmeut  in  the  langua^-e  and  customs  of  the  natives,  it  was 
:mi\v  fullv  proved  that  the  east  bvu'<l  of  the  old  clu'oniclers 
Wis.  in  reality,  situated  on  the  south-western  coast  of  (Jreeii- 
iiiiiil.  in  tho  present  districts  of  Julianshaal)  and  Lichtenaii ;  a 
"i;ist  vrhich,  in  comparison  with  the  more  northi'rn  colonies 
"f  Frcderikshaab  and  Fiskeruils,  distinctly  trends  to  the  east. 

The  [iresent  Danish  settlements,  which  are  contined  to  the 

inure  slieltered  fjords  of  its  western  coast,  are  divided  into 

niurth  and  south  inspectorate,  the  former  extending- from 

I  int.  (!7^  to  72°,  and  comprising;-  the  districts  of  Upernavik, 

"lut'imk,   Jakobshavn,    Christiansliaab,    Egedesminde,    and 


4,56 


TIIK    I'OLAIi    W()itM». 


(jodhiivii  oil  iJisco  Iftl.iiid  ;  wliilc  tlie  hitter  (■(Hitaiiis  the 
districts  of  llolstcciisbor;^",  Sukkertoppeu,  Godthiuib,  Fiskrr- 
iiiisset,  Frederiksliiiab,  and  Juliaiisliaab. 

In  the  year  l!So5  the  popnhitioii  of  the  South  Iiisi)ec'tiir;i1i' 
consisted  of  (>,12<S  abori;^'iiial  Greeidanders,  or  Esquimaux. 
and  120  PJuropeaus  ;  that  of  the  N(jrth  Inspectorate  of  :!,M(i 
of  the  former,  and  128  of  the  latter;  a  very  small  number  il 
we  consider  that  it  is  scattered  over  a  space  of  12°  of  latiliulc. 
In  a  country  like  this,  such  tou-nx  as  Godhavn,  witli  1")(»  in- 
habitants, or  Godthaab,  the  most  populous  of  all,  Aviih  :!■!•'. 
pass  for  considerable  cities. 

IJut  in  spite  of  its  scanty  population,  Greenland  is  a  valu- 
able possession  of  the  Danish  crown,  w  rather  of  the  l);iiu>li 
company  which  entirely  monopolises  the  trade,  and  niaiiii-v- 
its  affairs  so  well,  that  the  Greenlander  receives  for  his  |ini- 
duce  t»nly  about  the  sixth  part  of  its  jyrice  at  Copenlia^vn. 
According  to  the  average  of  six  years  (1850  1855),  the  totiil 
value  of  the  exports  from   Greenland  amounted  to  o 78,58s 
rix-doUars;  that  of  the  importations  from  Denniarkto  KM, 21'. 
but  in  the  latter  sum  was  included  not  only  the  price  paid  tn 
the  Greenlanders   for    their  goods,   but    all    the   stores  ainl 
provisions  necessary  for  the  agents  and  servants  of  the  cum- 
pany,  the  missionaries,  and  the  administration  of  the  colony. 
The  trifling  amount  which,  after  all  deductions  and  churi;vs. 
the    poor    Greenlander   receives    for    his    seal-skins   or  h\>. 
blubber,  he  generally  spends  in  tobacco,  candy-sugar,  ((iffc'. 
and  sea-biscuits,  for  his  real  wants  are  amply  supplied  l»y  hi- 
own  country,  and  he  has  not  yet  learnt  to  invest  his  'saiu- 
niore    proiltably.      Like    all    other   Esquimaux,   he   dcpciKh 
chiefly  upon  the   sea  for  his    subsistence.     Of  the    varinii- 
species  of  Phocie  found  in  the  Greenland  waters,  the  iiu'^t 
valuable   is   the   his})id   .seal  [Phorn   /ilnpida),   both  IVuin  i:- 
numbers   and    frojn    its    frequenting   the  fjords    duriiiu'  tli'' 
whole  year;    while  the  larger  Greenland  seal  {ritoni  ijivn- 
liDuUca)   is  not  stationary  like  the    former,    but  leaves  lli' 
coast   from    INIarch   to  May,   and   from  July  to   Septcinbi'i'. 
The   Ci/iitoji/iora   crisfntn,  or  hoode*!  seal,  remarkable  I'ui'  ;' 
globular  sac,  capable  of  inflation,  on  the  head  of  the  aial^ 
ai)pears   in  the  fjords  only  from  Apri>  till  June.      If   is  th 
most  |iugiiacious  of  all  the  seals.      In   the  southern  (li>ti'iil- 


US    till' 

ctur.it  1' 
ihniuix, 

iinlifv  it' 

alitndi'. 

loO  iii- 

iih :;:;»». 

s  a  viilu- 
2  Dauisli 
iiiaii;ii;'i'> 

his  pv"- 
ieulmii;»'ii. 

i\w  total 

jir.i/ii--. 

ce  i>ai<l  tn 
tores  ami 
the  c*iui- 
lic  colony. 
\  cliar'^'i's, 
\s   or  lii^ 
av,  cotit'i'. 


ICH 


Unl 


11- 


1 


lis  u'aiii- 


del 


H'lU 


le   vano"^ 
tho  most 
tVoiii  ii- 

ill- 


lUflUI. 


V(      III 


leavos 


tlir 

:'ptL'inl.t'i'' 
ll.lc  for  ;' 

I  the  iiial<'- 

It  is  tli'' 

II  di^in'-i-- 


u-ii 

Wilt 

the 
(].'ti 
wlii 
iuid 

IVL-O 

A 

I  I'll  CO 
Vitlui 

from 
(-•iiuy! 
lifter 

the  u 

Cf   tll( 

liuiidi 
luirw]] 
I'l'i^uhi 
lull)  ye: 
th;it  a 

I'l"  llUK 

I'f  a  fii 

Iiiiivest 

■■vident 

iii  the  f 

near  IL 

Tlie  t 

lander's 

is  of  ct 

"ther  otl 

tliose  sh 

"■"vs,  pa 

surface. 

"itli  a  si 

'ii't-'  also  ( 

They  are 

^""'d  deal 

i^aliiabl^ 


SIIAlii;    I'ISIIKltV. 


•4^7 


ulit'iv  the  soal-huntiii<^'  must  be  cliiolly  ean'icHl  on  in  opoii 
water,  the  Greenhuider  relies  upon  his  boat,thc  kayak.  When 
the  animal  is  struck,  the  barbed  point  of  the  harpoon 
detaches  itself,  by  an  in^v^nions  mechanism,  from  the  shaft, 
which  otherwise  would  be  broken  by  its  violent  contortions, 
and  as  the  line  is  attached  to  a  bladder,  it  can  easily  be 
recovered. 

Among-  the   cetaceans  the  white  dolphin   {Drlph'inoidvi'Hi^ 

hiic(u)  and  the  narwhal  {Monodon  monoceros)  are  the  most 

valuable   to   the   Greenlanders  of  the  North    Inspectorate, 

t'roiu   oOO   to   GOO   of  these  hug"e   animals   bein<^   annually 

caught.      The  .former   makes  its  appearance   a   short   time 

after  the  breaking  np  of  the  ice,  and  again  in  antnnni ;  in 

summer  it  seeks  the  ojjen  sea.     Sometimes  large  herds  of 

the  white  dolphins  are  cut  off  from  the  sea  by  the  closing  in 

(if  the  ice  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  land,  so  that  several 

hundred  may  be  killed  in  the  course  of  a  few  days.     The 

narwhal  is  caught  only  in  the  Onienak  fjord,  which  it  visits 

ici,nilarly  in  i-ovember.     As  its  chase  is  both  difficult  and 

ilangerous,  the  Greenlanders  generally  hunt  it  in  company,  so 

that  after  a  narwhal  has  been  struck  wdth  the  first  harpoon 

or  lance,  others  ai-e  ready  to  follow  up  the  advantage.     The 

larger  Avhales  are  now  seldom  caught,   but  the  dead  body 

of  a  lin-back  is  not  seldom  cast  ashore,  and  affords  a  rich 

liaivest  to  the  neighbourhood.     Sometimes  masses   of  oil, 

"vulently  proceeding-  from  dead  whales,  are  found  floating 

ill  the  fjords.    In  185 1,  95  tons  of  this  matter  were  collected 

near  Holsteinburg. 

The  fishes  likewise  amply  contribute  to  supply  the  GreiMi- 
'.iiiiilor's  Avants.  The  shark-fishery  {Hcumnna  vilcroci'iilinJiix) 
is  i>f  considerable  importance.  The  entrails  of  seals  and 
other  offal  are  placed  in  the  openings  of  the  ice  to  attract 
those  sharks  to  the  spot,  where  they  are  caught  in  various 
ways^,  particularly  by  toreli-light,  which  brings  them  to  the 
surface.  The  fishermen,  watching  the  moment,  strike  them 
with  ti  sharp  hook,  and  then  drag  them  upon  the  ice.  They 
arc  also  caught  with  strong  iron  angles  attached  to  chains. 
They  are  captured  for  the  sake  of  their  livers,  Avhich  yield  a 
i,'ouil  deal  of  oil.  It  has  very  recentlv  been  ascertained  that 
ivaluaUe  substanee  veseuibling  spermaceti  may  be  expresse<l 


469 


TlIK    I'Ol.All    WOULD. 


from  the  carcase  which  was  foriiicn-ly  wask-d,  and  for  tliis 
purposo  powerful   screw  presses  are  now  enip^)}e(l.     Altoiil 
;)(>,(M)()  of  these  i^hittonous   animals  are  can«iht  everv  vrar, 
iiiul  tlie  lishery  may  be  f,'reatly  extended,  as  the  hditoni  of 
tliu  ice-ijords    absolutely    swarms    Avith    them.     Their   ciiji- 
tnro  is  atteu(h,'d  with  far  less  trouble   and  danj^^'r  than   in 
Iceland,  where  they  are  pursued  in  boats,  and  in  a  ca])rici(iu.s 
and  tempestuous  sea.     Improvinj^  upon  the  old  Esquimaux 
methods  of  fishinof  or  huutin|^-,  tlic  Danish  residents  set  iic(s 
for  the  white  whale  or  tho  seal;  for  the  former,  tluy  nv,- 
attached  to  the  shore,  and  extend  off  at  ri<4'ht  anyles,  so  as  tn 
intercept  them  in  their  autumnal  southern  mi;j,Tation,  wlim 
they   swim    close    alou;^  tho  rocks   to    avoid    the    L,n'aiiqius. 
AVhen  the  white  whale  is  stopped  by  the  net,  it  often  appears 
at  iirst  to  Ik;  unconscious  of  the  fact,  and  continues  to  swim 
aq;aiijst  it,   and  then  allows  the  boat  to  a}>proach   it   ii-dm 
behind.     If  eutauf^'led  in  the  net,  it  is  soon  drowned,  as,  liki' 
all  the  whale  tribe,  it  is  obliged  to  come  to  the  surface  to 
breathe. 

A  larL;'e  quantity  of  cod  are  caugdit  in  varions  parts  of  tli" 
South  Inspectorate,  particularly  at  I'iskernasset,  which  beiiii,' 
less  subject  to  fogs  and  more  exposed  to  the  sea-wind  otiVrs 
peculiar  advantages  for  the  drying  of  the  fish.     The  cajx'lin 
{MdUotuii  vilJosH,^),  which  in  May  and  Jime  visits  the  coasts 
of  Greenland  in  great  numbers,  is  eaten  both  fresh  or  lai'l 
upon  the  rocks  to  dry   for  the  winter.     The   sea-wolf,  tln' 
lump-lish,  the  bull- head,  the  Norway  haddock,  the  salinuii- 
trout,  are  likewise  important  articles  of  food.     The  halibut 
grows  to  a-  huge    size,  and  a  smaller  species   (7//^)j;oj//o^s'i> 
piiiiiii.ts)  is  fished  for  at  the  depth  of  180  or  even  oSO  fatlii'iii>. 
The  banks  frequented  by  this  fish  are  most  valuable  to  tli  ■ 
neiLJ'hbouring  Greenlanders.     Manv  are  no   doubt  still  un- 
discovered,  others  nuiy  be  known  by  the  dead  fish  fioatini; 
on  the  surface,  or  by  the  seals  diving  out  of  the  water  v>it!i 
a  flat   fish   in  their  mouth.      Long-tailed  crabs  are  easily 
caught    in  many    parts,    and  the    common   mussel   may  h: 
gathered  almost  everywhere  at  ebb  tide. 

Crowds  of  birds  nestle  during  the  summer  on  the  roekv 
shores,  particularly  at  Upernavik,  where  the  largest  breediiii.' 
places   are    found.     They   are   generally  killed   Avith  small  j 


FLuiiA  or  (ii{i;i:.\M.\i). 


4.1it 


•  this 

\.\>»  'Ut 

(iin  <'t' 

•  ca])- 
lau   in 
vicious 
\inunix 
lot  nets 
liey  avo 
so  as  to 
n,  \s\\v\\ 

to  swim 
it   iVfiii 
I,  us,  lik<' 
,urfae*)  l'» 


tlie  voelcy 

tbreeaiu'^ 

ivitli  ^wd 


liliiuiL'il  iiri'owc!.  Ill  lliL'  i»'o-lj(»nl  of  Jacobsluivii,  tlio  ;.;ulls 
iivt'  ('aiiL;'ht  iii^'jiiiously  l>y  iloatiii}:^  traps  on  which  soini'thinn' 
brilliant  or  rcscniblinj^-  a  tish  is  fixf.l.  The  v^'^a  f)t"  tlie  sca- 
binls  tire  {gathered  in  vast  numbers,  and  Ihe  t'eiithers  and 
sl;iiis  of  the  eith'r-duek  an<l  auk  are  both  e.vporteil  and  used 
l\>v  the  linin<^-  of  boots. 

Compared  with  the  wealth  of  the  seas  the  land  is  very 
ynnv.  The  chiise  of  the  reindeer  is,  however,  important,  as 
its  skin  attbrds  both  a  warmer  and  a  softer  clothin;n'  than 
that  of  the  seal,  and  serves  moreover  as  a  bed  cover  or  a 
sliHl;.;"e  carpet,  lieindeer  hunting"  is  a  favourite  summer  occn- 
|iation  of  the  Greenlanders,  Avho  annually  kill  from  1(>,(»(I0  to 
2i»,u()il,  and  export  about  one-half  of  the  skins.  Only  a  few 
(%>\vs,  sheep,  and  t^-oats  are  kept  at  Julianshaah.  For  want 
(if  hay  they  are  fed  with  fish  durin<^  the  winter.  In  south 
(incnland  the  potato  is  cultivated  by  the  European  resi- 
(1  'Ills  as  a  luxury.  The  plant  never  flowers,  and  ev(>n  buds 
;iiv  rare.  Turnii)s,  cabbages,  salad,  and  spinach  likewise 
'iiMw  in  South  Greenland,  but  barlev  sown  in  the  *»;ardens 
s'lircely  ever  comes  to  ear.  In  summer  the  windows  of  the 
limises  are  <^'ay  with  geraniums  and  fuchsias  and  other 
tluwers  of  a  more  temperate  zone. 

Among  the  indigenous  plants  the  berries  of  the  Einixirinn 
I'i'iniiii,  Vacclnii(m  nliiiinosnm,  and  Vnccin'unn.  cifix  iihin, 
t!irui>h  the  Greenlanders  with  their  only  vegetable  food. 
While  the  coasts  exposed  to  the  bleak  sea-winds  attVu'd 
.- iuaty  traces  of  vegetation,  the  valleys  and  hill  slopes  of  the 
iiiirc  sheltered  fjords  are  green  during  the  summer,  and  jus- 
;  ly  the  name  bestowed  by  Erick  on  the  land  of  his  adoji- 
tiiiii.  Forests  are  of  course  out  of  the  question  in  Greenland, 
thiiu^h  in  some  phices  the  birch  attains  a  not  inconsiderable 
>i/r.  Thus  in  a  dell  at  the  U2)per  end  of  Lichtenau  Fjord 
;i  thicket  of  these  trees,  tifteen  feet  high,  surrounds  a,  little 
lake  ted  by  a  waterfall,  the  largest  hitherto  known  in  Green- 
iiiiil.  More  generally,  however,  the  trees,  such  as  the  beech, 
'lie  willow,  the  elder,  &c.,  merely  cree])  along  the  ground, 
'vhere  the  dense  matting  of  their  roots  and  branches,  mingled 
^vith  bushes  of  the  empetrum,  or  with  mosses,  lichens,  and 
lal  on  leaves,  forms  a  kind  of  turf  which  is  used  as  fuel  by 
l^he  Danes. 


4G0 


Tin:    rnLAIl    WOULD. 


In  somo  iHoiismv  tin.'  sea  iniikcs  up  lor  the  Wiiiit  of  tiiiilnr 
by  euHtiii^'Oii  tlio  shore  ii  (|Ujintity  ofdriCt-wood,  tlie  ori'^in  of 
>vlii('li  is  still  ii  matter  of  doubt,  some  traciu',''  it  to  the  Norfli 
Ami'ricaii  rivers,  others  to  those  of  Siberia.  It  eonsi,>,t.s 
mostly  of  the  u^n'ooted  trunks  of  coniferous  trees.  Sonictiiiirs 
also  lar«^-e  pieces  of  bark,  such  as  those  of  which  th(.'  Iinliiins 
niak(»  their  canoes,  and  sewn  to^'ether  with  threads  of  Imir, 
are  drifted  into  the  fjords. 

The  mineral  kino-dom,  thou^di  it  has  within  the  last  few 
years  attracted  the  attention  of  specidators,  will  hardly  cvrr 
realise  their  hopes.  Several  attemjjts  to  work  the  lead  ami 
copper  ores  at  Nainirsoak  and  in  the  Arksak  Fjord  Imvc 
miserably  failed.  The  cost  of  transport  is  immense,  and  Ww 
ditticulty  of  obtaining  the  necessary  workmen  presents  iiii 
insuperable  obstacle  to  all  mininj^  operations  in  Greenlaiid. 

Thouo-h  the  Greenlanders  have  now  been  for  more  than  a 
century  under  the  iiiiluence  of  Christian  teachers,  yet  their 
mode  of  life  is  still  much  the  same  as  that  of  their  relatives 
the  wild  Esquinumx  on  the  opposite  continent  of  Nurtli 
America.  Like  them,  they  use  the  '  kayak,'  the  '  ooiuialc,' 
and  the  sledge ;  like  them,  they  live  in  small  winter  huts  of 
stone  (the  snow-house  is  unknown  to  them),  or  in  suiiuner 
tents  hung"  with  skins,  and  they  are  ecpially  improvident  in 
times  of  abundance.  Their  constant  intercourse  Avith  Eurn- 
peans  has,  however,  taught  them  the  use  of  nuiiiy  luxuries 
imkiiown  to  the  wild  Esquimaux,  and  they  are  now  ^reiit 
consumers  of  cotfee.  They  are  fond  t)f  instruction,  but  tlw 
immense  space  over  which  the  population  is  scattered,  ami 
their  vagrant  life  during  a  great  part  of  the  year,  are  i;i'eat 
hindrances  to  their  improvement.  They  are  also  very  gi'ed- 
natnred,  and  live  on  the  best  terms  with  the  Danes  who  rcsiil 
among  them.  The  latter,  who,  with  the  exception  of  tin 
Moravian  missionaries,  are  all  in  the  service  of  the  Company.  I 
soon  get  attached  to  the  country,  and  leave  it  with  regret  :j 
sometimes  even  returning  to  close  their  days  in  (jlreeiiland. 

The  climate,  though  severe,  is  very  healthy,  and  the  levd 
of  sport  finds  ample  opportunities  for  gratifying  his  favour- 
ite passion.     In  September,  or  at  the  beginning  of  OctolHiJ 
tlu^  last  ships  leave  for  Europe;  and  then,  till  the  next  Apii 
or  May  —  when  the   th'st    English    whalers   appear   in  tin 


><M',l)(il':    I'AIJTIKS. 


401 


li\sl  IVw 
end  HUil 

,V(\   1>'1\V 

,  and  til'' 

sciils  an 

;cuVant\. 

1.-C  lluiuii 
yet  tlu'iv 

L«  relativis 
of  l^ovtli 
'  ooiivi'tdM 

^^Y  liuts  *'t 

ovWeii^  ill 
vitU  Kuv.'- 
vy  luxuriL> 
now  i^'vout 


|i(.i'ts  of  (HMlliiivii  or  rpcniiivilv  —  nil  (•ninniuiiiciilioii  with 
till'  civilised  world  is  totnlly  <'nt  <>IK  Towards  tlic  oiid  nl' 
.liimiiiry,  or  ilio  l)0;4'iiiiii]i|jf  of  Fobriinry,  wIkmi  llio  days  l)(>;4iii 
rapidly  to  lon^tlion,  froquont  sledge  parties  keep  U])  a  con- 
stiiiit  iiitor(dunif(0  of  visits  between  ilie  various  settleiiieuts. 
This  mode  of  lravellin<4'  over  the  lakes  and  enclosed  fjords  is 
vi'vy  a^Tceable  in  May,  as  then  tli(»  sun  is  [»leasanilv  ^vann  at 
neon,  an<l  tlion^'li  lie  hardly  disap)>ears  below  tlie  liori/on, 
llic  ni|^*'his  are  snfticiently  cold  to  converi  the  melted  snow 
into  ice  bard  enouj^'h  to  bear  the  weii^'htof  a  sl(>di;-e.  Tliis  is 
tlio  best  time  for  visitinj^  many  interesting-  spots  inacces- 
sil)lt>  at  other  seasons  of  the  year,  and  for  enjoying-  many  a 
<i('iie  nnsurpassed  in  Switzerland  itself.  Ifere,  as  on  tbe 
Alps,  the  i^'lacier  and  the  snow-clad  peak  appear  in  all  their 
i.Tiindeur;  here  also,  in  the  valleys,  the  i-iummer  brooks  flow 
lietween  well-clothed  banks,  and  the  Helvetian  lakes  are 
worthily  rivalled  by  the  magnificent  fjords  (»f  (jlreenland. 

In  many  parts,  the  waves  beating  against  the  steep  coasts 
fif  the  islands  and  fjords,  render  access  ditficidt,  if  not  im- 
possible during  the  snnnner ;  but  in  winter  or  spring,  they 
may  easily  be  visited  across  the  ice.  The  surf  has  worn 
many  caves  in  these  precipitous  rock-walls,  which  are  no  less 
ivmarkable  for  their  picturesque  basaltic  forms  than  for  the 
lin^e  masses  of  ice  on  their  sides,  which,  in  their  tints  and 
^.'louping,  far  surpass  the  stalactites  of  the  most  renowned 
Huropoan  grottoes. 


The  ?ii('.v  C'  oso. 


X 


<r^ 


y' 


/        \ 


13t) 


J  20 


IIH) 


Wt 


71) 


OU 


III 


TninuirXtu\ 


(\  Liinil 


'.Ttumu 


Ji\m 


«^v 


**»»», 


''"/,; 


v^*^ 


,r-^- 


\  i-  at) 


n     K     s  \ 


[ro" 


huUffii . 

Hprlll'P 
/*(ir»-»-.t  tiirthi'jil 


V? 


w 


v»v 


A         Y 


JIO 


'll^ 


\l 


SliftlniuLTc^. 


r) 


\ 


Faroe  I?  4'-" 


ip^n 


^-i  ^ 


>ff  ' 


^ 


!u) 


^ 


Sovt 


■f ockV)ttV«v\  ■ 


'AftTi 


iJafi 


i^iouthaiuv 


/ 


31) 


^% 


BAY 


\  ^ 


)0 


90 


80 


70 


60 


50 


40 


I'Airr  II. 


'm   ;.\TAi;cTrc  i;egioxs. 


1^ 


if  the  t' 
IVriiviiui 
-Tlie  A 

I.onpurd- 

vm  A 

i      tlliUl 

like  tlie 

iit'rdsiiien 
l^'iiulecr  t 

'^'iiiiiliiibitj 
Risk-ox  ( 
Fill  fbuiul 

'liiilnipod 

P  the  jiiosi 
'■'*'- I'ipt  ion. 
^yoii.l  Co( 

■"^I'itzboiN 


Cape  Cro7.icr  and  Meant  Terror. 


CHAPTER    XXXVT. 

THE     ANTARCTIC     OCEAN. 

"iiiparativc  vlow  of  tlio  Aiitarctii^  ami  Arciit'  Kottions  — liifrricrify  of  Ciimati 
it'  the  fornuT  Its  Causes  — The  New  Slu'tlaiul  iHlamls — South  r.eorpia--Th( 
IVniviaii  Stream— .Sea-liinls—Tlic  Giant  Petrel— TIic  Alhati 


'OSS  - 


The  J 


-Tlie  Austral    Wliale— Tlie    Ifuueliliaek— Tlie    Fin-Eack— The    Gr, 
llattle  with  a  Whale— The  Sea-Eleiiliaiit — The  Smiihirn  Sca-ll.ai 
I.oiii'ar(l--Antaretie  ]"i>]us. 


engiiiM 


inipii." 


TI 


:ie  Seu- 


HIE  Antarctic  regions  are  far  nu»re  desolate  and  barren 

lliiin  the  Arctic.     Here  we  have   no  energ-etic  hniiters, 

iiko  tlie    Esqiiimanx,  chasing  the    seal   or   the    -vvalrus ;  no 

Lnlsiiien  following,  like  the  Sanioyedes  or  the  Liipps,  their 

iviudeer  to  the  briidc  of  the  icy  ocean  ;  but  all  is  one  drear v, 

liiuinliiibitable  waste.     While  within  the  Arctic   Circle    tli(» 

wnsk-ox  enjoys  an  abundance  of  food,  and  the  leniiiiiug  is 

li'till  found  thriviuc:  on  the  bleakest  islands,  nut  a  siniile  laud 

^iiiilniped  exists  beyond  iMf  of  southern  latitude. 

>^miuner  fk)wers  gkuhlen  the  sight  of  the  Arctic  navigator 

itlic  most  northern  lauds  yet  reached;  but  uo  jdaut  of  any 

Kn-iption — not  even  a  ntoss  or  a  lichen— has  been  observecl 

•voii,]  (.\ickburn  Isliind  in  (5 1°  12'  S.  hit.;  and  while  rveii 

"^I'itzbergen  vegetatiou  ascends  the  niouutaiu  slopes  t«.»  a 

It   H 


46G 


TIIK    rOLAR   WOFvLD. 


lioi^^lit  of  0,000  feet  tlu?  snow  line  descends  to  tlio  Avatei\ 
edj^v  in  eA^ery  linid  within  or  near  the  Antarctic  Circle. 

An  open  sea,  extendinj^  towards  the  northern  pole  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  reach,  points  out  the  path  to  fnture  dis- 
covery ;  but  the  Antarctic  nuvif^at(jrs,  with  one  sing-le  excep- 
tion, have  invariably  seen  their  i)ro<,'ress  arrested  by  barriers 
of  ice,  and  none  have  ever  penetrated  beyond  the  conipiira- 
tively  low  latitude  of  78°  10'. 

Even  in  Spitzberj^^en  and  East  Greenland,  Scoresby  soiiio- 
tinies  found  the  heat  of  sunjnier  verv  UTeat ;  but  the  aiiiuils 
of  Antarctic  navigation  invariably  speak  of  a  friyid  tempe- 
rature.    In  177^),  when  Captain  Phipps  visited  Spitzber;4;eii, 
the  thermometer  once  rose  to  +.">S^°;  and  on  July  15,  ISiiit, 
Avhen  the  '  Hecla '  left  her  winter-quarters  in  Melville  Island, 
(74°   47'  N.),  she  enjoyed  a  warmth  of  -f.")<r.     But  diu-iii;r 
the  summer  months  spent  by  Sir  James  Ross  in  the  Antarctic 
Polar  area,  the  temperature  of  the  air  never  once  exceeded 
-f  41°  :/.     In  Nortlmmberland  Sound  (70°  42'  N.),  probably 
the  coldest  spot  hitherto  visited  in  the  noi'lh,  the  meanot'tln' 
three  sumnnT  months  was  found  to  be  +  ;>0°  8',  while  Avitliiii 
the  Antarctic  Circle  it  only  amounted  to  +27°  'V. 

The  reader  may  possibly  wonder  why  the  climate  of  tin' 
southern  polar  reijiions  is  so  much  more  severe  than  that  itf 
the  liij^-h  northern  Lititudes  ;  or  why  coasts  and  valleys,  a* 
equal  distances  from  the  equator,  should  in  one  case  be  found 
green  with  vegetation,  and  in  another  mere  Avastes  of  siioff 
and  ice ;  but  the  predominance  of  land  in  the  north,  and  if 
sea  in  the  south,  fully  ansv/ers   the   question.     Witliiii  the 
Arctic  Circle  we  see  vast  continental  masses  projecting  fartn 
the  north,  so  as  to  form  an  almost  continuous  belt  round  tluj 
icy  sea  ;  while  in  the  southern  hemisphere,  the  contiiieiitsj 
taper  down  in  a  vast  extent  of  open  ocean.     In  the  iioitlij 
the  plains  of  Siberia  and  of   the  Hudson's  Bay  territories 
warmed  by  the  sunbeams  of  summer,  become  at  that  se;is"i 
centres  of  radiating  heat,  so  that  in  many  parts  the  "Towtljl 
of  forests,  or  even  the  culture  of  the  cereals,  advances  a^ 
high  as   70°  of  latitude  ;   while  the   Antarctic  lands  iw  i 
a    comparatively    small  extent,    and    isolated   in    tlio  wk>t 
of  frigid  waters,  whose  temperature   scarcely   vaiics  fr'iil 
-j-  29°  2'    even  in  the  height  (jf  summer.     Mostly    sitnat'i 


ANTARCTIC    ICEDFiriflS. 


4G7 


us   t'llV 

excep- 
)nii>;>vii- 
)y  some- 
l\  tompe- 

le  IsV.vnd, 
lit  duviiv^' 

exceeded 
I,  probably 
leau  of  till' 
Uilc  ^vitl^l> 

ato  of  til'" 

laii  f^^'^^  *'* 
vaUeys.  a' 

ise  be  fouu'l 

es  of  siK'W 

;,Yt\u  and"l'| 

I^VUbin  tlio 

It  round  til'' 

n  tbe  ixntlii 
Iv'  tevrituvif 
that  soa^" 
tlu'  liV"^'''^ 
advances  a: 

\iM\<\^  ••'^■'';" 

in    the 
vav'u 


witliin  the  Antarctic  Circle,  and  constantly  diilloci  by  cold 
sL-a- winds,  they  act  at  every  season  as  relriyerators  of  the 
iitniospliere. 

Ill  the  north,  the  formation  of  iceberg's  is  confined  to  a  few 

iiittuntainons  countries,  such  as  the  west  coast  of  Greenland 

or  -Spitzberj^^en ;  but  the  Antarctic  coast-lands  L^enerally  tower 

to  a  considerable  height  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  the 

vast  fra<jrnients,  which  are  constantly  detachinj^-  themselves 

from  their  o;laciers,  keep  ni>  the  low  temperature  of  the  seas. 

In  the  north,  the  cold  currents  of  the  Polar  Ocean,  Avith 

their  drift-ice  and  bero-s,  have  but  the  two  wide  «^ates  of  the 

Greenland  Sea  and  Davis'  Strait  throuo-h  which  they  can 

emerge  to  the  south,  so  that  their  influence  is  confined  within 

comparatively  narrow  limits,  while  the  yolid  streams  of  the 

Antarctic  seas  branch  out  freely  on  all  sides,  and  convey 

their  floating-  ice-masses  far  and  Avide  within  the  teujperate 

seas.     It  is  oidy  to  the  west  of  Newfoundland  that  sing-le 

iLt'ljero-s  have  ever  been  knoAvn  to  descend  as  low  as  '"]J)°  of 

latitude  ;  but  in  the  southern  hemisphere  tliey  have  been  met 

with  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Cape  of  Ciood  Hope  ('j5°  S.  lat.), 

mar  Tristan  d'Acuidui,  opposite  to  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  de 

la  Plata,  and  within  a  hundred  leagues  of  Tasmania.     In  the 

north,  finally,  we   tiud  the   g-ulf  stream  conveying  warmth 

iwu  to  the  shores  of  Spit/.bergen  and  NovayaZemlya  ;  while 

ill  the  <»[tposite  regions  of  the  gh»be,  no  traces  of  warm  cur- 

iviits  have  been  observed  beyond  55"  of  latitude. 

Thus  the  predominance  of  vast  tracts  of  flat  land  in  the 
i«in'!il  hemisphere,  and  of  an  imnu'use  expanse  of  ocean  in 
till'  Antarctic  regions,  sulKciently  accounts  for  the  {cstival 
Karnith  of  the  former,  and  the  comparativi'ly  low  summer 
tmipcrature  of  the  latter. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  describe  in  detail  each  of  the  desolate 

lauds  which  modern  navigators  have  discovered  among  the 

I  Antarctic  ice-lields,  but  it  may  not  be  uninteresting  to  c(»m- 

110  one  or  two  of  these  dreary  wastes  with  the  lands  of  the 

I' '!'th,  situated  in  analogous  latitudes. 

Thr  New  Shetland  Islands,  situated  between  Ol"  and  (>']" 
l"f  southern  latitude,  were  originally  discovered  by  Dijx'k 
rWritz — a  Dutch  navigator — who,  in  attempting;  to  round 

II   II  2 


4G8 


THE   rOLAR   WORLD. 


Cape  Horn,  was  carriocl  by  tempestuous  weatlior  "witliin  sicj-lii 
of  their  mountainous  coasts.  Long  for^i^otten,  they  wimv 
re-discovered  in  1819  by  Mr.  Smith,  a  master  in  tlie  roval 
navy — whom  a  storm  had  like-vise  carried  thither — and  in 
the  following  year  more  accurately  examined  by  Edwiiid 
Bransfield,  Avhose  name  survives  in  the  strait  which  separates 
them  from  D'Urville's  Louis  Philippe  Land. 

In  1821),  the  '  Chanticleer,' Captain  Forster,  was  sent  to 
New  Shetland  for  the  purpose  of  making  magnetic  and 
other  physical  observations,  and  remained  for  several  liionths 
at  Deception  Island,  which  Avas  selected  .as  a  station  iVom 
its  affording  the  best  harbour  in  South  Shetland. 

Though  these  islands  are  situated  at  about  the  same  dis- 
tance from  the  pole  as  the  Faroe  Islands    which  boast  of 
numerous  flocks  of  sheep,  and  where  the  sea  never  freezes, 
yet,  when  the  'Chanticleer'  approached  Deception  Island,  on 
January  5  (a  month  corresponding  to  our  July),  so  many  ice- 
bergs were  scattered  about,  that  Forster  counted  at  one  tinit.' 
no  fewer  than  eighty-one.     A  gale  having  arisen,  accom- 
panied by  a  thick  fog,  great  care  was  needed  to  avoid  run- 
ning foul  of  these  floating  cliffs.     After  entering  the  harbour. 
— a  work  of  no  slight  difficulty,  from  the  violence  of  theAvinl 
— the  fogs  were  so  frequent  that,   for   the  first  ten  dav>. 
neither  sun  nor  stars  were  seen  ;  and  it  was  withal  so  raw 
and  cold,  that  Lieutenant  Kendal,  to  whom  we  owe  a  short 
narrative  of  the  expedition,  did  not  recollect  having  suften 
more  at  any  time  in  the  Arctic  regions,  even  at  the  lowest  | 
range   of  the  thermometer.     In  this  desolate  land,  frozer 
water  becomes  an   integral   portion  of   the    soil ;   for  tlii- 
volcanic   island  is  composed  chiefly  of  alternate   layers  vi 
ashes  and  ice,  as  if  the  snow  of  each  Avinter,  during  a  series] 
of  years,  had  been  prevented  from  melting  in  the  following': 
summer,  by  the  ejection  of  ""inders  and  ashes  from  soiii'V 
part  where  volcanic  action  still  goes  on.     Early  in  Manlii 
(the  September  of  the  north)  the  freezing  over  of  the  covi',] 
in  which  the  ship  was  secured,  gave  warning  that   it  wii: 
high  time  for  her  to  quit  this  desolate  port.     With  nun 
difliculty  and  severe  labour,  from  the  fury  of  the  gales,  tluj 
managed  to  get  away,  and  Ave  may  fully  credit  Lieutenaiil 
KeiKluFs  assertion,    that  it  was  a   day  of  rejoicing  to  iil 


tlie  cle; 
>a'iiL's 

fill'  lloi-] 


'•tt'rf.s  ill 

>ll(i\v. 


SOUTH   GEORGIA. 


4G9 


ime  dis- 
boast  of 
:  ireezes. 
sVan*^,  on 
nany  ici'- 
one  time 
1,  accom- 
tvoid  nui- 
chavljouv. 

,f  tliOAvin'^ 
ten  day^- 
iial  sf'  ^"•>^^' 
[vo  a  sli'^i'^ 

Itho  lowt'st 
[nd,  frozen 
.    iov  tlu> 
layers  ';'f 
|ng  a  series 
ie''followiiv: 
from  soino 
IV  in  l^I^Arelij 
[of  the  cove,] 
Aiat  it  ^^•'; 

o-ale^.  tlu 
Lieut  eiiaiij 

licing  t"  '' 


(111  V)oanl  wlien  tlio  slioros  of  Deception  faded  from  tlieir 
view. 

Jn  1775,  Cook,  on  liis  second  voyai^-e,  discovered  the  larj^o 

island  of  Sinitli  Geor^aa,  situated  in  latitude  51°  and  55°,  a 

situation  coi'respondino-  to  that  of  Scarborougli  or  Durham. 

But  what  a  dilterenee  in  the  climate,  for  '  we  saw  not  a  river 

or  stream  of  water,'  says  the  threat  navi^-ator,  *  on  all  the 

coast  of  Geor(,na.     The  head  of  the  bay,  as  well  as  two  places 

uii  each  side,  was  terminated  by  perpendicular  iceberj^s  of 

ioiisi<lerable  heij»;ht.     Pieces  were  continually  breakin*^  off 

and  lloatin*^  out  to  sea,  and  a  great  fall  happened  while  we 

were  in  the  bay,  Avhich  made  a  noise  like  a  cannon.     The 

inner  parts  of  the  country  were  not  less  savage  and  horrible. 

Tiie  wild  rocks  raised  their  lofty  summits  till  they  were  lost 

in  the  clouds,  and  the  valley  lay  covered  with  everlasting-  snow. 

Not  a  tree  was  to  be  seen,  not  a  shrub  even  big  enough  to 

make  a  toothpick.    The  only  vegetation  was  a  coarse  strong- 

Maded  grass  growing  in  tufts,  wild  burnet,  and  a  plant  like 

iiidss,  which  sprang  from  the  rocks.     The  lands,  or  rather 

r<)('ks,  bordering  on  the  sea-coast  were  not  covered  with  snow 

like  the  inland  parts,  but  all  the  vegetation  we  could  see  on 

the  clear  places  was  the  grass  above  mentioned.'     To  find 

scenes  of  a  similar  Avintry   desolation,   we   must   travel   in 

the  north  as  far  as  Novaya  Zemlya  or  Spitzbergen,  which  are 

2it'  or  21°  nearer  to  the  pole  ! 

Thus  the  influence  of  the  cold  Antarctic  waters  extends 

far  Avithin  the  temperate  zone.     We  can  trace  their  chilling 

fft'C'ls  in  Kerguelen  Land  (50°  S.  hit.),  which,  when  visited 

i'\  Cdok  in  the  heiu'ht  of  summer,  was  found  covered  with 

>unw,  and  where  only  five  phmts  in  fhnver  were  collected  ;  in 

Tiirra  del  Fuego  (53°  S.  lat.),  where  the  mean  summer  tem- 

h'lature  is  fully  ()i°  lower  than  that  of  Dublin  (5:}°  21'  N.  lat.) ; 

in  the  Falkland  Islands  (51°  oO'),  which,  though  flat  and  low 

ami  near  Patagonia,  have,  according  to  Mr.  Darwin,  a  climate 

Muilai-  to  that  which  is  experienced  at  the  height  of  between 

lie  and  two  thousand  feet  on  the  mountains  of  North  Wales, 

«iih  less   sunshine  and  less  frost,  but  more  wind  and  rain  ; 

iii'Hlnally  along  the  south-Avest  coast  of  America,  where  the 

^'■I'uvian  current  and  the  cold  sea-winds  so  considerably  de- 

ii'ess  the  snow-line,  that  while  in  Europe  the  most  southern 


470 


Tlir,    POLAK   WORLD. 


glacier  wliieh  coinos  down  to  tho  soa  is  met  with,  accovdiiia 
to  Von  Bueh,  on  the  coast  of  Norway  in  hit.  (57°  ;  the  '  Jh'uljIc  ' 
fiunul  a  ^'lacier  15  miles  long  and  in  one  part  7  miles  bioad 
descendiiit;  to  the  sea-coast,  in  the  gulf  of  Penas,  in  a  lati- 
tude (40°  50')  nearly  corresponding-  with  that  of  the  Lake  ef 
Geneva. 

'  The  position  of  this  glacier,'  siiys   Mr.  Darwin,  'may  Lc 
pnt  even  in  a  more  striking  point  of  view,  for  it  descends  \,, 
the  sea-coast  within  less  than  0°  from  where  palms  gi-ow : 
within  44°  of  a  region  where  the  jaguar  and  puma  raiifrc 
over  the  plains,  less  than  2^°  from  arhorescent  grasses,  and 
(looking  to  the  Avestward  in  tlu,'  same  hemisphere)  less  tliaii 
2°  from  orchideous   parasites,  and  within  a  single  degree  ef 
tree-ferns!'     ..i  Lho    inlluence  of  the  tropical  gulf  stream 
reaches  as  far  us  ^■)       ')ergen,  so  that  of  the  cold  Peruvian 
stream,  which  issues  from  the  Antarctic  Seas,  extends  <'veu  to 
the  ecpiator,  and  n-.t  sekUuu  reduces  the  temiierature  of'tlic 
waters  about  the  Galapagos  t'>  less  than-f  5S^°,  so  that  ]vet- 
building  corals,  which  require  a  minimum  warmth  of+Gir. 
are  unable  to  grow  near  islands  situated  directly  under  tln' 
line. 

Though  the  Antarctic  lands  are  so  bleak  and  inckniuiit 
that  not  a  single  quadruped  is  to  be  found  within  dO"  nf 
latitude,  yet  they  are  tho  resort  of  innumerable  sea-biras 
which,  belonging  to  the  same  families  as  those  of  the  nertli, 
generally  form  distinct  genera  or  species,  for  witli  raiv 
exceptions  no  bird  is  found  to  inhabit  both  the  Arctic  iiml 
the  Antarctic  regions. 

Thus  in  the  petrel  family  avo  find  the  fulmar  {Pi-oci'Vurl'i 
glaclalin)  and  the  glacial  petrel  (P.  (jcliihi)  <jf  the  high  nurtlij 
represented  in  the  Antarctic  Seas  by  the  giant  petrel  {I'mfil- 
hiria  (jiijiodcd)^  which  extends  its  flight  from  Patageiiia  tn 
the  ice-banks  of  the  south,  wdiere  the  Antarctic  and  tlie 
snowy  petrels  {l\  (nddrch'i-a  ef  nivea)  first  appear,  cold-lovim; 
birds  which  never  leave  those  dreary  waters,  and  are  oltcuj 
seen  in  vast  flocks  floating  upon  the  drift-ice. 

The  giant  petrel,  which  has  received  from  the  Spaniiii'iUj 
the  sigiiilicaiit  appellation  of  '  <ii(i'ln'i(uf(i  Inicson,"  ov  Mariiki 
bones,'  is  a  more  poweivful  bird  than  the  fulmar.     It  is  lari; 
than  a  y-oose,  with  a  strong  beak  1.',  inches  Ioul;".      Us  e"Ii'i"! 


IS  a 

JieeJv 

ivseii 

Jiiay 

ii'etls, 

fit'  se; 

Vnri  ^ 

'JJeaLi' 


roo  < 


' ly  i.s 


•iM 


'  "  II 


i\i 


riONULINS. 


471 


O 

VOlltl 

lati- 

ay  Vn' 
lids  t<t 
•I row ; 

?s,  and 
5S  tliau 

n 

strcum 
'oriiviivn 

lid  ret'f- 

ikVv  til'' 

ueloun'iit 
[ill  (■)**'  "^' 

\ve  iiort^>i 
,vith   i"uv 


Irctic  uiv 


|u»j;U  novtli 

lei  (/''■'"■''■ 
|tan'(Uiia  i>' 

L  and  tW 
K.ld-lovwi 
are  oft'^n! 

lev  'bn-alv 
lit  is  V.ivi'' 


is  a  dirty  black,  white  below,  and  with  white  spots  on  the 

neck  and  baek.     In  its  habits  and  manner  oftii^-ht  it  closely 

ivsenibU'S  the  albatross,  and,  as  with  tlie  albatross,  a  spectator 

may  watch  it  for  hours  together  without  seeinjj^  on  what  it 

foods.     Like  the  f nlinar  it  feasts  npon  fishes,  or  the  carcases 

uf  seals  and  cetaceans,  but  it  also  chases  other  binls.     At 

Pdit  .Saint  Antonio  it  was  seen  by  sonu;  of  the  officers  of  tlio 

'Bca^'le'  pursuini^-   a  diver,  whieh  tried  to  escai»c  by  divinfjf 

1111(1  flying",  but  was   continually   struek  down,  and  at  last 

killed  by  a  blow  on  its  head.     Such  is  its   voracity  that  it 

dues  not  even  spare  its  own  kind,  for  a^'i^-antic  petrel  havin<^ 

lii'eii  badly  wounded  by  a  sh(»t  from  the  'Terror,'  and  fallin<( 

at  too  ^reat  a  distanee  for  a  boat  to  be  sent  after  it,  was  ini- 

iiK'diately  attacked  by  two  others  of  the  same  kind,  and  torn 

to  pieces.     It  is  a  common  bird  both  in  the  open  sea  and  iji 

tlu'  iidanJ  channels  of  Tierra  del  FueL>"o,  and  the  south-west 

coast  of  America. 

The  wanderinj4'  albatross  {Diomcili'n  mihius),  elosely  allied 
til  tlie  petrels  and  rivalling'  the  condor  in  size  and  streno-th 
iifwiiio-,  may  truly  1)e  ranked  among*  the  Antarctic  birds,  as  it 
is  seldom  seen  in  a  lower  latitude  than  .'}<j°,  and  increases  in 
imnibers  towards  the  south.  Freyssinet  saw  it  most  frecpiently 
k'tueen  55°  and  5i)°  S.  lat.,  and  it  probably  knows  no  other 
limits  than  those  of  the  Polar  ice.  It  is  found  in  every 
lULTidian  of  this  enormous  zone,  but  the  regions  of  storms — 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and  (/ape  Horn — are  its  favourite 
iv'sorts.  Here  it  may  frecpiently  be  seen  in  the  full  majesty 
"fits  flight. 

The  auks  of  the  northern  hemisphere  are  represented,  in 

tk'  austral  regions,  by  the  penguins,  who,  as  Buff'on  remarks, 

are  the  least    bird-like  of  all  birds.      Their   small    wing- 

>tmnps,    covered  with  short    rigid    scale-liki'    feathers,    are 

altoo'etlier  incapable  of  raising  the  body  in  the  air.  but  serve 

iijiiiliiiirable  paddles  in  the  water,  and  on  land  as  fore-fe<.'t, 

^^ith  whose    help    they    so    alertly    seale    the   grassy    elifls, 

"liat  they  might  easily  be  mistaken  for  quadrupeds.      Tlieir 

'"'■t.  like  those  of  the  auks,  are  place<l  so  far  back    that  the 

""ly  is    (piite    u[)right    when  the  bird  is  standing  on   the 

■;i"Uiiil.  a   position    which    renders  tlieir   gait    uncommonly 

l''"^v  and  awkward,  but  greatly  facilitates  their  movements 


472 


TIIK    POI.AK    WORLD. 


B^l'^^ 


in  the  wtiter.     Wlion  at  sea  and  fishing-,  tlio  pon^-nin  coiiu'S 
to  tlio  snrfucc  for  tlio  purpose  of  broatliinj^  with  such  a  spriiiij, 
and  dives  ag-ain  so  iustaiitaneonsly,  tliat  at  first  siglit  no  one 
can  be  sure  that  it  is  not  a  fish  leaping*  for  sport.     Other  sea- 
birds  generally  keep  a  considerable  part  of  their  body  out  of 
the  water  while  swimming,  but  this  is  not  the  case  with  the 
penguin,  whose  head  alone  appears  above  the  surface,  and 
thus  rowing  at  the  same  time  with  its  wings  and  feet,  it 
swims  so  quicldy  that  many  fishes  would  fail  to  keep  up  with 
it.     Sir  James  Ross  once  saAV  two  penguins  paddling  away 
a  thousand  miles  from  the  nearest  laml.     Protected  agninst 
the  cold  by  a  thick  layer  of  fat  and  a  warm  great-cont  of 
feathers  it  remains  for  months  on  the  high  seas,  and  seeks 
land  only  in  the  summer  for  the  purpose  of  breeding.    At  tliis 
time  it  is  found  in  vast  numbers  on  the  Falkland  Islands, 
Kerguelen's  Land,  New  Shetland,  or  wherever  in  the  Antarc- 
tic Seas,  perhaps  even  to  the  Pole  itself,  a  convenient  coast 
invites    its    stay.     On  Possession    Island,    for    instance,   a 
desolate  rock,  discovered  by  Sir  James  Ross  in  lat.  71°  oG', 
myriads  of  penguins  covered  the  whole  surfiice  of  the  huul, 
along  the  ledges  of  the  precipices,  and  even  to  the  summit 
of  the  hills.     Undaunted  by  the  presence  of  beings  whom 
they    had    never    seen    before,    the    birds    vigorously    at-  ^ 
tacked  the  British  seamen  as   they   waded  through  their 
ranks,  and  pecked  at  them  with  their  sharp  beaks,  a  recep- 
tion which,  together  with  their  loud  coarse  notes,  and  tho 
insupportable  stench  of  their  guano,  made  our  countrymoii  i 
but  too  happy  to  depart,  after  having  loaded  their  boat  with 
geological  specimens  and  penguins.     There  are  several  S2)ecie3 1 
of  this  singular  bird.     The  largest   and  rarest  {Apfc)(Oihjks\ 
Forsteri)  is  generally  found  singly,  while  the  smaller  species | 
always  associate  in  vast  numbers.     Several  were  cauglit  ia^ 
lat.  77°  by  Sir  James  Ross  and  brought  on  board  alive  ;  indeedl 
it  was  a  very  difficult  and  a  cruel  operation  to  kill  theiii,| 
until  hydrocyanic  acid  was  resorted  to,  of  which  a  table-i 
spoonful  effectually  accomplished  the  purpose  in  h'ss  tlinal 
a  minute.      These   enormous   birds   varied  in  weight  I'n'Ui 
sixty  to  seventy-five  pounds.     They  are  remarkably  stiijii'V; 
and  allow  a  man  to  approach  them  so  near  as  to  strike  \hm 
on  the  head  with  a  l»ludgeon,  and  sometimes,  if  knockc'l  ttl 


AUSTRAL   WHALES. 


473 


ft- 


•*■** 


\    COlllfS 
t   1M)  one 

lier  st'ii- 

witli  thf 
faco,  iiutl 
a  tVoi,  it 
p  upAvith 
in«^-  iuvay 
id  ugiiinst 
lat-coiit  dl" 
and  seeks 
T.    At  this 
id  Isliimls, 
lio  Antarc-      i 
niont  coiist 
[iistuiK-e,   a 
,at.  71^  ••'•  • 
,f  tlie  liina. 
\vc  sumwit 

l->illo-S  AVllOlU 

»rously  iit- 
'ougli  tlu'iv 
[ivs,  a  veo'V- 

;CS,    ini«l  till' 

couutvyiiu'U 
a-  boat  wuli 
|veral  spo^i''^ 

jailer  specie 
•c  canglit  in 
Jive ;  iu(leell 
;o  kill  thoiu  ^ 
icli  a  table-! 
in  loss  tkna;' 
Kveio-lit  iVov  ^ 

l^ablv  ^^ 
strike  tli'.'i 

kiK)cke«l  u 


the  iee  into  the  water,  tliej  will  almost  ininiotliately  leap  npon 
it  ii<4iiin  as  if  ea{»'er  for  a  fi<?ht,  tlion«,'h  witliont  the  smallest 
means  either  of  offence  or  defence.  They  were  first  dis- 
covered diiriny;'  Captain  Cook's  voyage  to  the  Antarctic 
re^'ions,  Lnt  Sir  James  Ross  was  f'ortnnate  in  brin^-ing  the 
tirst  perfect  specimens  to  England,  some  of  which  Avere  pre- 
served entire  in  easlcs  of  strong  pickle,  that  the  physiologist 
and  comparative  anatomist  might  have  an  opportunity  of 
thoroughly  examining  their  structure.  The  principal  food  of 
the  great  penguin  consists  of  various  species  of  crustaceous 
animals,  and  in  its  stomach  are  frequently  found  from  tAvo 
to  ten  pounds'  weight  of  pebbles,  swallowed  no  doubt  to 
[U'oiiiote  digestion.  '  Its  capture,'  says  Sir  James  Ross, 
'  afforded  great  amusement  to  our  people,  for  when  alarmed 
and  endeavouring  to  escape,  it  makes  its  way  over  deep 
snow  faster  than  they  could  follow  it :  by  lying  down  on 
its  belly  and  impelling  itself  by  its  powerful  feet,  it  slides 
along  upon  the  surface  of  the  snow  at  a  great  pace,  steady^ 
iiig  itself  by  extending  its  fin-like  wings,  which  alternately 
toneli  the  ground  on  the  side  opposite  to  the  propelling 
len-.' 

Thougli  the  Antarctic  Seas  possess  neither  the  narwhal  nor 
tlie  morse,  they  abound,  perhaps  even  more  than  the  Arctic 
waters,  in  whales,  dolphins,  and  seals,  at  least  in  the  higher 
latitudes. 

The  austral  smooth-backed  whale  [Bakvna  (uistndis)  differs 
from  his  Greenland  relative  in  many  respects :  the  head 
is  comparatively  smaller,  being  only  about  one-fourth  of 
the  total  length,  the  mouth  is  broader,  the  baleen  shorter, 
the  j^ectoral  fins  are  larger  and  pointed,  and  the  colour 
is  almost  totally  black,  the  white  on  the  lower  surface 
being  confined  to  a  small  part  of  the  abdomen.  The  skull 
is  also  differently  formed,  and  while  the  Greenland  whale 
luis  only  thirteen  pairs  of  ribs,  the  austral  smooth-back  has 
llfteen. 

Aecordino'  to  Mr.  Bennett  the  austral  smooth-back  seldom 
attains  a  greater  length  than  fifty  feet,  but  as  it  yields  on  an 
uveraL;-o  from  eighty  to  ninety  barrels  of  oil,  its  capture  amply 
rewards  the  whaler's  trouble.  Though  met  with  in  the 
liigliest  latitudes,  and  roaming  over  the  whole  extent  of  the 


474 


TIIK    I'OLAIl    WDIILI). 


Antarctic  Sous,  it  TO.S(^>rt.s  in  spring'  io  llio  slicHcrcd  1)iivs 
of  New  Zciilaiid,  Anstriilia,  Kcrj^-iiclcn's  IjiukI,  Chili,  (Ii.. 
Falkland  Islands,  Alu'oii  Biiy,  Sec,  fur  flic  pnr[»<>s('  of  hrinuiiii,' 
forth  its  youiiy.  Tiiis  of  course  makes  its  capture  ensirr, 
but  must  at  the  same  time  lead  to  its  extiri)ati<)n,  or  drivf  it 
to  the  most  inaccessible  regions  of  llie  Polar  ()c<'aii.  Hvin 
now  the  whale  lisheiy  of  the  southern  seas,  which  1\vriil\- 
or  thirty  y<'ars  a<>'o  eni2)loyed  hundreds  of  vessels,  has  inurli 
diminished  in  importance:  it  is  chielly  carried  on  l)y  llic 
Americans,  the   French,  and  our  Australian  colonies,  which 


1    LiiiS    lluus 


I,  i!i'r;;neici;'3  Lantl. 


have  the  advantage  of  being-  more  conveniently  situated  than 
the  mother  country. 

In  the  hi;4-her  latitudes  of  the  Antarctic  zone  the  Inuicli- 
back  and  tin-back  whales  abound ;  but  as  the  foriiicr  i< 
meag-re  and  hardly  worth  the  boiling,  and  the  latter,  like  the 
ror(]ualsof  the  north,  dives  with  such  rapidity  that  he  snaps 
the  harpoim  line  or  drag's  the  boat  along-  with  him  into  tin' 
water,  they  are  seldom  hunted.  Hence  they  will  nutst  lil<i'h 
continue  to  prosper  in  their  native  seas,  unless  the  inntioVLil 
missiles  recently  introduced  in  the  whale  tishery  can  'n' 
nuule  to  conquer  theiu.     The  hunch-l)ack  is  distiugui.sln'il '', 


ANTARCTIC    CI'.TACHANS. 


475 


r.iys 
til.! 

ivt'  U 
Evi'U 
vcnty 

lUUcll 
y    Uw 


i-^i 


litrA  tlian    | 

u>  huufli- 

t'ovuu'V  i-   J 

,  like  til' 

he  siiav>  I 

I  int.'  til'' 

liost  likt'ly 
inipv.'VO'l 

Iv  can  I"' 

uisli.'<l'')- 


tlic  gi'ot't  loiig'tli  of  Ills  [x'ctoral  fins,  wliioli  oxtt'iul  to  full 
I'i^litooii  feet,  wliilo  theso  oroaus  iirc  comparatively  small  in 
tilt!  Hn-back.  A  kind  of  l)n>a<l-nosod  whalo  likewise  makea 
its  apjiearanee  in  the  Antarctic  Seas,  but  it  is  not  yet  ile- 
ti'iiiiined  wlietlier  all  these  fin-l)a<'ked  whales  of  the  south 
are  distinct  species  from  those  of  the  Arctic  waters.  A  cir- 
cumstance "Nvhich  seems  to  speak  for  their  identity  is  that 
tin-backs  are  mot  with  in  the  intervening,^  temperate  and 
tropical  seas,  so  that  no  limits  a[>pear  to  have  been  set  to 
their  excursions. 

The  sperm  whale  or  cachalot,  thoui^h  partial  to  tho 
equinoctial  ocean,  is  also  found  in  tho  cold  Antarctic 
waters.  It  was  met  with  b^-  8ir  James  Ross  anion<,^  tho 
icebergs  in  (J:}"  20'  S.  lat. ;  and  near  Possi'ssion  Island 
(71°  50'  S.  hit.),  where  the  hunch-backs  were  so  abundant 
that  thirty  wero  counted  at  one  time  in  various  directions, 
and  durin<«'  the  whole  day  wherever  the  eyes  turned,  their 
blasts  were  to  be  seen.  A  few  sperm  whales  were  also  dis- 
tin<;'uished  among  them  by  their  peculiar  manner  of  blowin<^ 
or  s[)outino;. 

Amon<^  the  dolphins  of  the  Antarctic  Ocean  we  find  a  species 
(ifgTampus  no  less  formidable  and  voracious  than  that  of  the 
northern  seas.  On  Jannary  20,  18  lO,  the  American  ship 
'Peacock,'  while  cruisino-  in  the  Antarctic  waters,  witnessed  a 
nnifiict  between  one  of  them  and  a  whale.  The  sea  was  i)er- 
iatly  smooth,  so  that  the  whole  combat  could  be  distinctly 
Seen.  At  first  the  whale  was  perceived  at  some  distance  from 
the  sliip  lashino-  the  water  into  foam  and  apparently  nnikiny^ 
'lesperato  efforts  to  shake  off  some  invisible  enemy.  On  ap- 
liri)achin<jf  they  found  that  an  enormous  gramjjushad  seized  it 
witli  its  jaws.  The  whale  vainly  tiu'ued  and  twisted  itself  in 
'Very  direction,  and  its  blood  tinj^vd  the  water  far  around.  The 
.'nuHpus  had  evidently  the  advanta^-e,  and  the  other  whales, 
"f  which  there  were  many  in  sig'ht,  instead  of  assistini^^'  their 
"•mrade,  seemed  only  intent  on  their  own  safety.  Tho 
21'ampus  had  a  brown  back,  a.  white  abdonu'u,  and  a  lar^-e 
"11  on  its  back.  The  speed  at  which  the  monstrous  animals 
'Vit  through  the  Avater  prevented  the  Americans  from  wit- 
'"^siiig  the  issne  of  tin'  fight.     The  classical  dolphin  of  the 


47G 


Tin;  I'oLAii  Would. 


aucionts  has  bocii  soon  near  tlio  Cape  of  (Joud  Hu)..',  aii.l 
most  likely  waiuk'i'.s  far  to  the  south  as  lie  is  provt'i'liiiil  lur 
his  arrow-like  rapidity,  and  can  easily  traverse  a  ('oiiplc  nt 
liiiiidred  miles  iii  a  siii^'le  day.  In  the  Strait  of  M;i;fclliiii 
and  about  ('aj»e  Jlorn  are  frecniently  seen  the  l)<  Ijt/iitnin  skji,  ,- 
(•iln>si(n,  whose  turne(l-u[)  jnouth-corners  <^ive  his  couiift  n- 
aiiee  a  peculiarly  beni'voient  and  friendly  expression,  hclird 
by  his  ravenous  propensities,  and  the  I>t'li>/iitiiifi  liurordiiijilnis^ 
who,  like  the  bjeluo-a  of  the  north,  has  no  dorsal  tin,  and  liv 
the  liveliness  of  his  movements  emulates  thocdassicaldulpliin 
of  the  Mediteri'anean. 

The  seal  family  plays  a  no  less  important  [»art  in  the  zod- 
lo<]fy  of  the  Antarctic  Seas  than  in  that  of  the  northern  wati-rs. 
Hero  wo  iind  the  monstrous  sea-elephant  {Mavr<>rliiitii.<  ,1,. 
pJudifinuK),  so  called  not  only  iVom  his  si/e  attaining-  a  Irn^th 
of  twenty-five  feet,  and  a  oirth  at  the   larj^vst  part  of  iho 
body  of  from  fifteen  to  ei|^diteen,  but  also  from  the   siii^ular 
structure  of  his  elony;ated  nostrils,  which  han;^-  down  winii 
he  is  in  a  state  of  repose,  but  swell  out  to  a  proboscis  a  font 
lono-  when  he  is  enraged.     This  gives  the  animal  a.  very  i'ny. 
midable  appearance,  which  along  with  his  bellowing  and  his 
widely-gaping  jaAvs  armed  with  tusk-like  canines,  might  sfiike 
terror  into  the  boldest  heart.     But  in  reality  the  sea  elepluiiit 
is  a  most  defenceless  creature,  for  on  land  it  moves  its  un- 
wieldy carcase  with  the  utmost  difliculty,  and  a  single  blow 
upon  the  snout  Avith  a  club  suffices  to  stretch  it  lifeless  un  the 
•'•round.  It  used  to  be  met  with  in  considerable  number^  on  a!! 
the  Hat  shores  or  islands  between  o-")"  and  02°  S.  lat.,  but  as  it 
yields  a  large  quantity  of  excellent  oil,  and  as  its  skin,  thoiiL'ii  j 
merely  covered  with  thick  short  bristles,  isof  some  value  I'n 'in  .) 
its  great  strength  and  thickness,  incessant  persecution  li:is 
greatly  thinned  its  ranks,  and  in  some  parts  extirpated  it, 
Thus  Sir  James  Ross  relates  that  the  sea-elephant  and  sovonil 
other  species  of  seals,  which  were  formerly  in  great  abuiulaiioo 
at  KergUiden'sLand,  annually  drew  a  number  of  fishing-vc-- 
selsto  its  shores.     But  at  the  time  of  his  visit  (1810),ul'torso 
many  years  of  slaughter,  they  had  quite  deserted  the  place 
The  flesh  of  the  sea-elephant  is  black  and  of  an  oily  ta^te, 
but  Anson  and  his  companions,  after  having  been  tossed  abmit 
for  several  months  on  a  tempestuous  sea  and  reduced  to  giviit 


ANTARCTIC    SKALS. 


477 


,  llU'l 
,il  l'"V 
[lie  <it' 
;-('\l;>n 
Hiiin  i'- 
AUtfU- 

•a  \.'U-tU 
ft  oV  t^>^ 

I,  very  I'ov- 
in;  uu*l  lii!* 
io-lit  strike 

OS  Us  \w- 


distress   by  scurvy,  rt'llslu'd   it    ut   Jimii   Feruamloz.      The 
tun;,'U(»  is  said  to  bo  a  f^'roat  delicacy. 

As  tin'  soft  jct-bliick  I'lii'  of  the  youupf  southern  sea-benv 
[Airfocfj)li(tlii>* /((Ichoulicux)  is  no  less  valuable  than  that  of  its 
northern  relative,  the  eaf;;erness  with  which  it  is  ptirsned  may 
(.'iisily  bo  inia^'ined.  Formerly  vast  lan-ds  of  sea-ljcars  used 
to  sort  every  summer  to  the  Now  Shetland  Islands,  but 
soo'  '  n*  tho  re-discovery  of  the  <,'ronp  the  American  and 
Kii^.-...i  sealers  made  their  ajipearance  on  its  desolate  shores, 
and  in  the  short  time  of  four  years  exliri>ated  the  ursine  seals, 
thus  destroyin^jf  by  wasteful  destruction  what  miyht  havo 
biTii  a  pernument  source  of  profit. 

The  southern  sea-lion  {Otaria  julxthi)  is  a  lar<jjer  aninnil 
tliiiii  his  northern  namesake,  and  while  tho  latter  is  fur- 
nished only  with  an  erect  and  curly  hair-tuft  at  tho  nock,  a 
iiiiiipleto  mane  flows  round  his  breast.  Tho  remainder  of 
the  tawny  body  is  covered  with  short  smooth  hairs  or  bristles. 
The  sea-lioness,  who  is  nmch  smaller  than  her  mate,  has  no 
iiiiuie,  and,  as  she  is  of  a  darker  colour  and  has  a  diiferently 
>liape'  ead,  is  frequently  mistaken  for  another  species,  and 
(iille(  f  or  Inho  by  the  inliabitiints   of  the  south-western 

Miiist  ot  America.  The  fore-flippers  of  the  sea-lion  have  the 
appearance  of  lar<j;'0  pieces  of  black  tou^-h  leather,  showiny-, 
instead  of  nails,  slin-lit  horny  elevations;  the  hind-lins,  which 
avo  likewise  black,  have  a  closer  resendjlance  to  feet,  aiid  tlu» 
live  toes  aro  furnished  with  small  nails.  It  is  a  formida1)le 
looking"  beast,  particularly  when  full  g-rowu  to  a  len<^'th  of 
ten  feet  and  more.  Tho  sea-leopard  [Le^ifonux  WethhllH), 
which  owes  its  name  to  its  spotted  skin,  is  peculiar  to  the 
^'lUtliern  seas.  This  large  seal  is  from  eight  to  uine  feet 
V'n^',  the  hind  feet  have  no  nails,  and  greatly  resemble  the 
tail  of  a  fish. 

The  Antarctic  seals,  dcdphins,  and  petrels  cliiefly  prey  upon 

1  ;i  .renus  of  fisli  discovered  at  Kergnelen's  Land,  and  named 

iXotothenia,  by  Dr.  Eicliardson.     These  fish,  which  are  of  an 

•■l(m<'-ated  eel-like  shape,  conceal  themselves  from  the  perse- 

'iitions  of  their  enemies  in  the  small  cracks  and  cavities  of 

ilio  [liick-ice,  and  wore  frequently  noticed  by  Sir  James  Ross, 

hheii  driven  from  shelter  by  the  sliip  as  it  struck  and  passed 

'-'V'T  their  protecting  pieces  of  ice.     They,  in  their  turn,  live 


478 


THE    POLAR   WORLD, 


upon  the  smaller  cancri  and  liniacina},  and  tlioso  an-ain  iipnn 
creatures  of  a  still  more  diminutive  size,  until  iinally  tlic 
chain  of  created  beia<^s  terminates  in  the  diatoms,*  wliicli 
are  found    illlin<f   these    seas  with   the   minutest   forms   ot 


oru'anio 


life, 


*  '  Tlic  Sea  and  its  Living  W(.>nJiTs,'  p.  10:5. 


'SNf-- 


tpenii  Whale. 


Mount  l.ai.to. 


CHAPTER  XXXVir. 


AXTAIUn'lC    VOYAGES    OF    DISCOVERY, 


I'oi, 


1) 


I.SOiiVOl'lcS     111    tl 


Aiitar.'ti.'   i) 


(■(Mil 


I'cllillL'llMUScll  —  W( 


IV     Diiniont    irrrvillo  — ^^'ilk^■^ 


.1; 


\oss  crosMs 


Icll — l)isooe- 
(lic  Aiitarcti 


Cir.lc 


Xi'W  Vi'jir's  I)mv.  1811 — Discovers  \'ii'f(iriii  Land  —  Daiifj^crDUs  Laiiilinu; 


'  rank  nil 


Island  —An  I'li'iipl 


it'  Mounl    l'",ril)iis   -Tlic  ( ircat  Ice  nii!'ri( 


I'l'Dvidiiiliiil    Mscapc— Dnadl'ul   (ialc-C 


Um: 


irdou- 


I'as 


issa'ff 


Int 


\vi.'(.n 


led, 


■'l\ri 


iiiiial uni  of 


tho  V 


T)i:i\:)RE  Cook,  no  iiavi--ator  had  left  Europe  with  the 
i'  cloav  desii^'ii  of  peuetratiiiin'  into  tho  Antarctic  rc<^i(jus. 
I'irk  tiherit/.,  indeed,  had  been  driven  hy  a  fuiious  storiu  fur 
■"  llie  south  of  Cape  Horn,  and  hecanu'  tlic  involuntary  dis- 

"Vcrer  of  the  New  Shi'tland  Islands  in  IdOO;  but  his  voya^'o 
'vas  soon  for<>'otten,  and  in  an  agv  where  the  love  of  <^"<>ld  or 
till'  desire  of  conquest  were  the  sole  promoters  of  maritime 
■'itorjirise,  no  mariner  felt  inclined  to  i'ollow  on  his  Irack.  and 

'  phm^'O  into  a   sea   where,   most   pr<>l)ably,  he  would  lind 

"tliiiio-  hut  ice-fields  and  icelx'rys  t<>  reward  his  elforts. 
^'iiily  two  centuries  later,  a   nmre  scientific  ay^o  directed  its 

■itU'iition  to  the  unknuwn  reu'ions  of  the  distant  south,  and 


480 


TlIK   rOLAR    WORLD. 


Cook  sailed  forth  to  probe  the  secrets  of  tlio  Antarctic  Seas. 
This  dan<^erous  task  he  executed  with  an  intrepidity  un- 
paralleled in  the  annals  of  navigation.  Beyond  OO""  (if 
southern  latitude,  he  cruised  over  a  space  of  more  than  lOlV' 
of  longitude,  and  on  January  :><),  1771-,  penetrated  as  far  as 
71°  of  southern  latitude,  "where  he  was  stopped  by  inipeiic- 
trable  masses  of  ice.  Such  were  the  difticulties  encoinitercd 
from  dense  fogs,  snow-storms,  intense  cold,  and  everytliino- 
that  can  render  navigation  dangerous,  that  in  his  opinion 
the  lands  situated  to  the  southward  of  his  discoveries  must 
for  ever  remain  unknown. 

Again,  for  many  a  year,  no  one  attempted  to  enter  a  field 
where  the  most  celebrated  of  modern  mariners  had  fonnd 
but  a  few  desert  islands  (South  Georgia,  Sandwich's  Land, 
Southern  Thule)  until  Smith's  casual  re-discovery  of  Ntnv 
South  Shetland  in  1819  once  more  turned  the  current  of 
maritime  exploration  to  the  Antarctic  Seas. 

Soon  afterwards  a  Russian  expedition  under  LazarefF  and 
Bellinghausen  discovered  (January,  1821),  in  G9°  8'  S.  lat., 
the  islands  Paul  the  First  and  Alexander,  the  most  southern 
lands  that  had  ever  been  visited  by  man. 

The  year  after,  Captain  "Weddell,  a  sealer,  penetrated  into 
the  icy  ocean  as  far  as  74°  15'  S.  lat.,  8°  nearer  to  the  Pole 
than  had  been  attained  by  Cook.  The  sea  lay  invitingly 
open,  but  as  the  season  was  far  advanced,  and  Weddell 
apprehended  the  dangers  of  the  return  voyage,  he  steered 
again  to  the  north. 

In  1881  Biscoe  discovered  Enderbv  Land,  and  soon  after- 
wards  Graham's  Land,  to  which  the  gratitude  of  geographers 
has  since  given  the  discoverer's  name.  In  1830,  Ball(?m 
revealed  the  existence  of  the  group  of  islands  called  after 
him,  and  of  Sabrina  Land  (69°  S.  lat.).  About  the  same 
time,  three  considerable  exi:»editions  fitted  out  by  the  govorii- 
ments  of  France,  the  United  States,  and  England,  made  tlieir 
ai)pearance  in  the  Antarctic  Seas. 

Duiuont  d'Urville  discovered  Terre  Louis  Philippe  ((!•')' :)rj 
S.  lat.)  in  February,  18:58,  and  Terre  Adelie  (00°  07'  S.  lat.)oii| 
January  21,  1810.    Almost  on  the  same  day,  Wilkes,  the  cuiii- 
niandcr  of  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  roacli^l 
an  ice-bound  coast,  which  he  followed  for  a  length  of  1.''"" 


Jliof 

iil 

palnj 
trntc'^ 

land  1 
On 
Clui-Ic 

arctic 

'•"'eaJcij] 

-1  clear 

irere  so 

!iii  1  ha; 

Ot^.ii'iiU  tc 

'"fty  J»et 
toivai-ds  i 

^'mxKl  coa 
I'^'itlie  1110 
|:ifiiJ]j-  ci 

pMiintaiii 
P'.st  aiixic 

(car  Qvny 

■■»'wl  ii-oj 
l^aiulretl  ib 

■•■  ^-^^ney^ 
[^'"'s  usua,I 

'^'t.i  ur, 


l\ 


^"oi-\ver)'i 

iV(jnred 
■^'■'"^''l  on  j 

^"'  ^^■■•'.v  tol 
"■J'ieJi  ,j 


ROSS    IN    TllK    ANTARCTIC    t'llit'LE. 


•181 


'tis. 

'  of 

V   US 

)ene- 
tovod 
t\un<j; 
)iuitm 
i  must 

a  field 
fo\md 
5  Laud, 
of  l^ew 
L'rent  of 

ireff  and 
'  S.  Vat., 
sovithcvn 

■ated  into 
tlio  Pole 
,uvitin?;ly 
^Veddell 
.e  steered 

loon  after- 
[otvvapl^ev^ 
IValleny 
tvUod  at'tev 

tllO    SiUUO 

he  o;ovevn- 
Luletkiv 


pe  it>'>  ■^' 
Vs.lat.U^" 


milos,  aiul  wliieli  has  betMi  called  Wilkes'  Land,  to  comme- 
luonite  the  discoverer's  name. 

But  of  all  the  explorers  of  the  S(»utheru  froaen  ocean,  the 
piihu  unquestionably  belongs  to  Sir  James  Koss,  wlio  pene- 
trated farther  towards  the  Pole  than  any  other  navi<^-ator 
l)i't'ore  or  alter,  and  made  the  only  discoveries  of  extensive 
liind  within  the  area  bounded  by  the  Antarctic  Circle. 

On  New  Year's  Day,  1811,  the  '  Erebus,' Captain  James 
Clark  Ross,  and  the  "  Terror,'  commanded  by  Francis  Crozier, 
who  died  with  Franklin  in  the  Arctic  Sea,  crossed  the  Ant- 
arctic Circle,  and  after   sustaining  many  severe  shocks   in 
breaking  through  the  pack-ice,  emerged,  on  Janiiary  1),  into 
a  clear  sea  of  great  extent ;  but  the  fog  and  snow-showers 
wc'i-e  so  thick,  that  the  navigators  could  seldom  see  more 
thin  half  a  mile  before  them.     On  the  following  day  the  fog 
began  to  disperse,  and  on  the  1 1th,  Victoria  land,  rising  in 
kifty  peaks  entirely  covered  with  perennial  snow,  was  seen 
at  a  distance  of  more  than  one  hundred  miles.     On  steering 
towards  Mount  Sabine,  the  highest  mountain  of  the  range, 
atw  chains  of  hills  were  seen  extending  to  the  right  and 
kft.    After  sailing  for  a  few  days  to  the  south,  along  the  ice- 
found  coast,  a  gale  forced  the  ships  to  stand  out  to  sea ;  but 
ill  the  morning  of  January  15,  the  weather,  becoming  beau- 
tifully clear,  allowed  a  full   view  of  a  inagniHcent  chain  of 
aMuntains,  stretching  far  away  to  the  southward.     Ross  was 
must  anxious  to  find  a  harbour  in  which  to  seciu'e  the  ships, 
k  every  indentation  of  the  coast  was  found  tilled  with  snow 
rifted  from  the  mountains,  and  forming  a  mass  of  ice  several 
Vuiidred  feet  thick.     It  was  thus  impossible  to  enter  any  of 
'!'■  valleys  or  breaks  in  the  coast  where  harbours  in  other 
l^iii'ls  usually  occur.     Yet  these  inhospitable  sliores  (72°  7o' 
'  bit.)  are  situated  but  one  or  two  degrees  nearer  to  the 
^btluin  Hammerfest,  the  seat  of  vn  active  commerce  on 
"  Xurwegian  coast. 

Favoured  by  northerly  winds  and  an  open  sea,  the  ships 

w.lit'd,  on  January  22,  a  higher  southern  latitude  (7  !•'  2(V  S.) 

11  that  which  had  been  attainetl  by  AVeddell.      Pursuing 

if  way  to   the  southward,   along  the  edge   of  the  pack- 


Is  thecrtw- 

1  '    .viclirAM'^' ^^liieh  now  compelled  them  to  keep  at  a  considerable 

I    '    t  \  :,ii'>W-^""*-'e   from   the    coast,  they  came,  on  the  27th,  within 


ill   ct"  \- 


I  1 


482 


TIIK    rOLAR   WORLD. 


I  ■ 


two  or  tliroe  miles  of  a  small  island,  coniioctecl  by  a  vast 
ice-field  with  the  extreme  point  of  the  main  land.  Eiir^er  to 
set  his  foot  on  the  most  sontherly  soil  (70°  8'  S.)  he  hud  as 
yet  disi'overed,  Ross  left  th(^  '  Erebus,'  accompanied  by  seve- 
ral olli<-ers.  and  followed  l)y  Cntzier  and  a  party  from  tlic 
'  Terror,'  [>nlled  towards  the  shore.  A  high  sontherly  sw.-U 
broke  so  heavily  against  the  cliffs,  and  on  the  only  piece  oC 
beach  which  they  conld  see  as  they  rowed  from  one  end 
of  the  island  to  the  other,  as  almost  to  forbid  their  lamlin^-. 

By  great  skill  and  management  Ross  succeeded  in  juiiiii- 
ing  on  t(j  the  rocks.  By  means  of  a  rope  some  of  I  he 
othcers  landed  somewhat  more  easily,  bnt  not  without  i,i-.'t- 
tiiig  thoroughly  wetted,  and  one  of  them  nearly  lost  his  life 
in  this  difHcult  affair.  The  thermometer  being  at  22'',  every 
part  of  the  rocks  washed  by  the  Avaves  was  covered  with 
a  coating  of  ice,  so  that  in  jumping  from  the  boat  he  sHp|»ed 
from  tluMu  into  the  water  between  her  stern  and  the  almost 
perpendicular  rock  on  which  his  companions  had  laiid'il. 
But  for  the  promptitude  of  the  men  in  the  boat  in  in- 
stantly pnlling  off,  he  must  have  been  crushed  betwcLMi  it 
and  the  rock.  He  was  taken  into  the  boat  without  luiviiii;  1 
suffered  any  other  injury  than  being  benundjed  by  tlio 
cold. 

The  island,  which  received  the  name  of  Franklin,  boiv  imt 
the  smallest  trace  of  vegetation,  not  even  a  lichen  or  piive 
of  sea-weed  growing  on  the  rocks ;  but  the  wdiite  petrel  and 
the  skiia-gull  had  their  nests  on  the  ledges  of  tkc  cliff's,  and, 
seals  Avere  seen  sporting  in  the  water. 

The  tbllowing  day  Avas  memorable  for  the  discovcn  of | 
the  southernmost  knoAvn  land  of  the  globe,  a  magnifi(ciife| 
mountain  chain,  to  Avhich  the  name  of  Parry  Avas  givi'ii.  infel 
grateful  remembrance  of  the  honour  Avhich  that  illii:^^ 
trious  navigator  had  conferred  on  Ross,  by  calling  the  iiiiisl 
northern  land  at  that  time  knoAvn  by  his  name.  Ft  is  iioj 
often  that  men  are  abk'  to  reciprocafe  such  coinidiimnt 
as  these!  The  most  conspicuous  object  of  the  cliaiii  wi 
Mount  Erebus  (77''  o'  S.),  an  active  volcano,  of  Avliii'li  Vv 
had  the  good  fortune  to  witn<'ss  a  magnificent  criii' h 
The  enormous  I'ohimiis  of  (lame  an<l  smoke  rising  two  ilini 
sand  feet  above  the  juouth  cd*  the  crater,  Avhich  is  (.'I'vat 


12,- 

siiio 
a  Ul; 

Mnn 

hvlUi 

seven 
(ila 

fouth, 
f'orniiii 
rising 
Irvol. 
'•jnenfl; 
icwjiat 
tered  tJ 
mt  its 
:''''ttiji<.- , 


I'urj' 


I'ARllY  S    LAXI). 


4«3 


12,1*^0  feet  above  tlie  level  of  the  sea,  combined,  witli  the 
i«iinw-white  mouiitjiiii-cluiin  and  the  deep  blue  oeeaii,  to  form 
;i  iiiiiLjiiificoiit  scene.  An  extiiiei  A'olcano  to  tlie  eastward  of 
)Ioimt  Erebus,  and  littJ*.'  iuferior  in  height,  Ijeiiij^-  by  mea- 
>invnient  lO.DOU  feet  liiyli,  was  called  'Mount  Terror.'  A 
In'illiant  mantle  of  snow  swe}»t  down  the  sides  of  both  these 
^diuits  of  the  south,  and  projected  a  perpendicular  icy  cliff 
several  milc'S  into  the  sea. 

llladly  would   Ross  have  penetrated  still  fui'tlier  to  the 
south,  but  all  his  efforts  were  bafHed  by  a  vast  barrier  of  ice, 
forinin^^    an  uninterrupted  wall,  4-')0    miles    in  len<Tth,  and 
rising-  in  some  parts  to  a  heiyht  of  180  feet  above  the  sea- 
Itvi'l.     AVhile  sailing;-  along-  this  barrier,  the  ships  were  fre- 
quently obliged  by  the  wind  and  the  closely  packed  ice  to 
keep  at  a  considerable  distance;  but  on  February  0,  having-  en- 
tered the  only  indentation  which  they  had  perceived  through- 
out its  whole  extent,  they  had  an  excellent  opportunity  of 
[retting-  quite  close  to  it,  though  at  no  little  hazard.   This  bay 
WHS  formed  by  a  projecting-  peninsula  of  ice,  terminated  by 
a  cape  170  feet  hig-h,  but  at  the  narrow  isthmus  which  con- 
nected it  with  the  g-reat  barrier,  it  was  not  more  than  fifty 
feet  liig-h,  affording-  lioss   the  only  opportunity  he  had  of 
seeing-  its  upper  surface  from  the  masthead.     It  appeared  to 
be  quite  smooth,  and  conveyed  to  the  mind  the  idea  of  an 
immense  plain  of  frosted  silver.     Gigantic  icicles  depended 
iruin  every  projecting-  point  of  its  perpendicular  cliffs,  prov- 
KiLl  that  it  sometimes  tliaw'ed,  which  otherwise  could   not 
bve  Ijeen  believed,  for  at  a  season  of  the  year  equivalent  to 
August  in  England,  the  thermometer  at  noon  did  not  rise 
jiove  11°,  and  the  yoimg  ice  formed  so  quickly  in  the  shel- 
.  .,\ven.  iitB-i'Ml  l);iy  its  to  warn  them  of  the  necessity  of  a  speedy  re- 
\\\\\\    iUui-'S'tat.     Favonred    by    the    bn>eze,    and    by    dint    of    g-reat 
fci'tiun,    they    ultinnitely    emerged    from    their    dang'erous 
I'-^ition,  but  scarcely  had  they  escaped  when  the  wind  came 
'iireetly  ag-ainst  them,  so  that  had  they  ling-ered  but  half  an 
Mu- l(tug-er  near  the  barrier  they  would  certainly  have  been 
i^"zeii  up. 
"ii  February   1:}  the  ap})roach  of  winter  convinced  lioss 
[it  it  was  high  time  to  relincpiish  tin' further  examination 
till'  liarrie'r  to  the  eastward,  and  as  no  place  of  security 

1  I  2 


vast 
;i"l-  to 
;>i\  as 

seve- 
u  til" 

swvW 
leee  of 
le  eivl 
iding'. 

.iniup- 

of   the 
nit  g'*-t- 

his  life 
2%  ev*'VY 
ved  with 

le  sU\>V^'*^ 
xG  ill  most  ^ 
a  lauded. 

r.it  in  in- 
between  it 
lit  liaviu!,' 
.'d  by  tlie 

ji,  ]m)\v  not 
,>n  oi-  vi^-'ee 
petv*A  niitl 
olift's.  aii>^ 

iiscovcvy  ^ 
ina'iidBc'iii 


U  i>  '"^^ 
tonipliinen' 

chain  ^v 
^vhich  l^"i 
^,t   ci-uvti'*' 
two  ill"' 


is  el'' 


v;i' 


484 


Till':    roLAIl    WOULD. 


wliero  it  was  possible  to  winter  could  be  found  upon  niiv 
part  of  the  land  liitherto  discovered,  he  reluctiintly  n'solvt-l 
to  recross  the  Antarctic  Circle,  and  postpone  all  attempts  in 
reach  the  Pole  to  the  next  season.  The  return  vtniiuc  was 
difficult  and  dauj^-erous.  On  March  7,  the  ships,  while  rii- 
deavonring-  to  iiud  a  way  thron;j;'h  tlie  pack-ice  in  lat.  (!-V, 
had  a  narrow  escape  from  inuninent  destruction.  The  whul 
haviny  ceased,  they  found  themselves  at  the  mercy  of  u 
heavy  easterly  swell,  which  was  <lrivin<^-  them  down  u]i(,ii 
the  pack,  in  which  were  ctmnted  from  the  masthead  eiglitv- 
four  larj^-e  berys,  and  some  hundreds  of  smaller  size.  As 
they  rapidly  approached  this  formidable  chain,  no  opcuii)!^' 
could  be  discovered  throu<>-h  which  the  ships  could  pass ;  tlio 
waves  were  beatinj^-  violently  against  the  berg-s,  and  dashinir 
huge  masses  of  ])ack-ice  ag'ainst  their  i)recipitous  faces,  now 
lifting-  them  nearly  to  their  summit,  then  forcing  theinai>iiiii 
far  beneath  their  water  line,  and  sonu^times  rending  thcin  in 
a  multitude  of  brilliant  fragments  ag-ainst  their  proj('ctiii;f 
points.  'Sublime  and  nuignilicent,'  says  Eoss,''^'  'as  sik.Ii  a 
scene  nmst  have  appeared  under  ditt'erent  circumstances,  to 
us  it  was  awful,  if  not  appalling".  For  eight  hoiu's  we  liad 
been  gradually  drifting-  towards  what  to  human  eyes  a}!- 
peared  inevitable  destruction  ;  the  high  Avaves  and  deep  roll- 
ing-  of  our  ships  rendered  towing  with  the  boats  impf>,>silik', 
and  our  situation  the  more  painful  and  embarrassing  fremj 
our  inability  to  nuike  any  effort  to  avoid  the  dreadful  calii 

mity  that  seemed    to    await  us We  were  imw? 

within  half  a  mile  of  the  rang-e  of  bergs.     The  roar  of  tli( 
surf,  which  extended  each  way  as  far  as  we  could  sec,  an 
the  crashing  of  the  ice,  fell  upon  the  ear  with  fearful  disi 
tinctness,  whilst  the  frequently  averted  eye  as  innneJiati 
returned  to  contemplate  the  awful  destruction  that  tlimii 
ened  in  one  short  hour  to  close  the  world,  and  all  its  Iiejie 
and  joys,  and  sorrows  upon  us  for  ever.     In  this  our  diyj 
distress  "we  called  upon  the  Lord,  and  He  heard  our  veil 
out  of  His  temple,  and  our  cry  came  before  Him."     A  ^■•eutl 
air  of  wind  filled  our  sails ;  hope  ag-ain  revived,  and  t! 
greatest  activity  prevailed  to  make  the  best  use  of  the  tab] 

*  '  Voyagu  to  tlif  Siiuflicrn  Sims,'  vol.  i.  ji.  282. 


'^"'  several 

l^'-'tlicMvest 
'^liich  the 

j'!i;itter  an; 

pfilwith" 

IJowiiig  dj 

'  cni)pled 


STORMS    AXl)    IWCK-K'K. 


48.' 


iiss;  till' 


kct'zo;  as  it  i,n'a(lually  fresliono*!,  our  lioavy  sliij^s  l)\!4'an  to 
feel  its  iutlnoiu'o,  slowly  at  first,  but  mow  rapidly  after- 
wards, aud  before  dark  we  found  ourselves  far  removed  I'roui 
every  daujjfer.' 

After  passiu<]f  the  winter  at  Ilobarton,  the  capit.il  of  Tas- 
mania, Sir  James  Ross,   in  tlio  foliowiufjc  year,  once  more 
crossed  the  Antarctic  Circle  to  examine  the  icy  barrier  which 
ill  liis   previous   voya<^^e   had   blocked    his    pi-oo-ress   to   the 
jiiuth,  and  to  renew  his  attemi)ts  to  pass  round  or  through 
it.    But  there  were  new  dano-ers  to  be  encountered.     On 
Jiinuary  17,  1812,  a  fearful  storm  came  on  as  the  'Erebus' 
1111(1  '  Terror '  were  makin<^  tlieir  way  through  the  pack-ice, 
whifh  was  this  time  met  with  in  a  more  northern  latitude 
than  the  year  before.     The  sea  broke  all  the  hawsers  which 
lirlil  them  to  a  laro-e  piece  of  floe,  and  drove  them  helplessly 
aloii!^-  into  the  heavy  pack.     The}^  were  now  involved  in  an 
lOan  of  rolling  fragments  of  ice,  Avhich  were  dashed  against 
tlioin  by  the  waves  with  so  much  violence  that  their  masts 
luivored  as  if  they  would  fall  at  every  successive  blow.     The 
Uul  crashing  noise  of  the  straining  and  working  of  the  tim- 
i'TS  and  decks,   as  they  were  driven  against  some  of  the 
iieavier  pieces,   might  well  appal  the   stoutest   heart,    and 
liius  hour  passed   away  after   hour.     During   this  terrible 
I'lie  the  ships  were  at  one  time  so  close  together  that,  Avlien 
the  '  Terror '  rose  to  the  top  of  one  wave,  the  '  Erebus  '  was 
iitlio  top  of  the  wave  next  to  leeward  of  her,  the  deep  chasm 
Ik'tweon  them  being  filled  with  lieav}'  rolling  masses ;  and  as 
I  lie  ships  descended  into  the  hollow^  between  the  waves,  the 
aaiutopsail-yard  of  each  could  be  seen,  just  level  with  t\ui 
rest  of  the  intervening  wave,  from  the  deck  of  the  other. 
[Tilt}  night,  which  now  began  to  draw  in,  rendered  their  con- 
liition,  if  possible,  more  hopeless  and  helpless  than  before; 
Wt  at  midnight  the  snow,  which  had  been  falling  thickly 
It  r  several  hours,  cleared  away,  as  the  wind  suddenly  shifted 
I' the  westward  ;  the  swell  began  to  subside,  and  the  shocks 
rliieh  the  ships  still  sustained,  though  strong  enough  to 
liliatter  any  vessel   less    strongly  ribbed,  were  feeble   com- 
jiiivd  ^vith  those  to  Avhich  they  had  been  exposed.     On  the 
rllowiiig  day,  the  wind  having  moderated  to  a  fresh  breeze, 
|-e  crippled  ships,  whose  rudders  had  been  sorely  shattered. 


^mmm 


48(; 


THE    rOLAU    WOItLl). 


were  socnrdy  luoorod  to  a  liir<,^o  lloo-piccc  in  the  now  iiliiiost 
iiiotionlcss  piic-lc,  where,  Ly  dint  of  unccasinL;'  liilxtur.  the 
<l!imii<jfes  were  rejjuired  in  tlie  course  of  ii  week,  sind  the  vi's- 
sels  once  more  fitted  to  fiy^lit  tlieir  way  to  the  south. 

On  Fehruiiry   22,   the  yreat    hnrri<>r  was    seen   frnm    f]i,. 
masthead,  just  before  niidni<4'ht,  ;ind  the  followintf  dnv,  llie 
wind  Uowino-   directly  on  to  its  cliffs,   they   iipproaclieil   it 
within  a  mile  and  a  half,  in  lat.   78°   IT,  the  liiL-hest  ever 
attained    in    the    southern    lu^inisphere.     From    this    point, 
situated    ahout    5°    of    lony-itude    farther  to  the  east   tluiii 
the    indentation  where   the  ships  h.id  so  narrowly  esoiij)ed 
beini^-  frozen  fast  in  the  precedinj^^  year,  the  barrier  tiviidi  d 
considerably    to    the    northward  of  east,   so  that  Koss  was 
obli{^ed   to    <^ive    up    all   hope    of  rounding  it,  and  extiinl- 
in^i^  his   explorations  towards  tin.'   Pole,  as  the  season  was 
already  considerabl}-  advanced.     On  his  return  voya^^-e  to  tlie 
Falklands,    where  he  intended  to  pass  the    winter,  lie  had 
already  reached    the    latitude  of  (50°,  and  thoui^-ht   hinisclC 
ont    of    dano-<>r    of    meetinj^    with    berj^^s,     when,    in    the 
afternoon  of  March    12,  the  southerly  wind  chanye<l  to  ;i 
strong  north-westerly  bree/e.     In  tlie  evening  the  wind  in- 
creased so  much,  and  the  snow-showers  became  so  incessant. 
that  he  was  obliged  to  proceed  under  more  moderate  sail. 
Snuill  pieces  of  ice  were  also  met  with,  warning  him 
presence  of  bergs,  concealed  by  the  thickly  falling  snow,  s 
that  before  midnight  he  directed  the  topsails  of  the  •  Kiv- 
bus '  to  be    close-reefed,  and   every  arrangement   mailc  I'nr 
rounding  to  until  daylight,  deeming  it  too  hazardous  to  niii 
any  longer.     'Our  people,'  says  (he  gallant  explorer,  "liad 
hardly  completc'd  these  operations,  when  a  large  berg  was  seen  |J 
ahead  and  quite  close  ;  the  shi[)  was  immediately  hauLti  toij 
the  wind  on  the  port  tack,  with  the  expectation  of  l)einoaWei 
to  weather  it ;  but  just  at  this  moment  the  "  Terror  "  Ava3j 
observed  running  down  uj^on  us,  under  her  topsail  and  foiv-j 
sail;  and  as  it  was  impossible  for  her  to  clear  both  tln^  licr^'* 
and  the   "Erebus,"  collision  was  inevitable.     We  iustan'iy 
hove  all  aback  to  diminish  the  violence  of  the  shock;  'ufc 
the  concussion,  when  she  struck  us  Avas  such  as  to  thi'  'V 
almost  every  one  off  his  feet;    our    bowsprit,   forefo[>iii:i-',^ 
and  oilier  snudler  .spars,  were  carried   away,  and  Hk'  ^li'I' 


S(l 


iiiini] 

ii,i,'iiii 

u/ion 

;i,i,''<'iin 

the    , 

"Ter] 

vicu', 

top  of 

tlie  cr 

creasec 

;,'i':i(lna 

foajnin 

the  "  'j 

that  sli 

tlie  \vre 

"■<•'  \YQn 

^llip;   11 

^0  close 
i?ainst 
»ay   hrt 

■tI'"JJi;i< 
e.vpedicjj 

(Iiin'nii-  s 

'ii'iiucnt 
cavy  roj 

\illg   \v; 

'"  cliils, 
iviKJei-od 

>i'il;  l)nt 
I'ii'it  of  I 
1'  the  ri- 
'<'i-a,sion 

^h  after 
■^"lidst  tli( 

ii'iiiid  t 
"■''■^  tliree-( 
^■accd  by, 
^''"  e.vj)ed 

'.)  seaiiK 

«".Sllipo.;l 


COLLISION    OF    TIIK    MlRKHrS      AND    '  TKUIIOU. 


4H7 


linnfj'ilifjf  too-otlior  oiitiMif,H(Ml  by  ihr'w  rio;<.fin<;,  and  <liisliin<^ 
a«,'iiiiist  oacli  otlier  with  fearful  violciiot',  wore  falliii<4-  down 
upon   the  weather  face  of  the    lofty   her^    nnder    our    lee, 
ii<^ainst  wliic'h  the  waves  were  l)reakin^  and  fo:iniin;4'  to  near 
the    summit    of    its    perpendicular    elilfs.     Sometimes    the 
"Terror"  rose  hi<»'h  above  us,  almost  exposing  her  keel  to 
view,  and  a<];'ain  descended,  as  we  in  our   turn  rose  to   ihe 
top  of  the  wave,  threatenintj^  to  bury  her  beneath  us,  whilst 
the  crashiu*^   of  the    breaking   ui)per-Avorks    and  boats   in- 
creased the  horror  of  the  scene.     Provi<lential]y  the  sliii>s 
ijvadually  separated    V)efore  we    drifted   down   amongsl    Iht; 
fiianiing  breakers,  and    we   had  tlu^  gratilieaiion  of  seeing 
the  "Terror"  clear  the  end  of  the    berg,    and   of  feeling 
that  she  was  safe.     But  she    left  us  completely  disabled  ; 
the  wreck  of  the  spars  so  encumbered  the  lower  yard,  that 
we  \vere  unable  to  make  sail,  so  as  to  get  headway  on   the 
ship ;  nor  had  we  room  to  wear  round,  being  by  this  time 
so  close  to   the    berg   that   the   waves,   when   they  struck 
afjainst  it,  threw  back  their  spray  into  the  ship.     The  only 
ff;iy  left  to  lis  to  extricate  ourselves  from   this  awful  and 
ii}ipalling    situation,    AV.as    by    resorting    to    the    hazardous 
txpctlient    of  a   stern    board,  which    nothing    could   justify 
thiring  such  a  gale   but  to  avert  the   danger  which  every 
iiKiiiicnt    threatened   us   of  being   dashe<l   to   pieces.       The 
licavy  rolling  of  the  vessel,  and  the  probability  of  the  masts 
jviiig  way,  each  time  the  lower  yai'd-ai'nis  struck  against 
;lu'  dill's,  which  were  towering  high  above  our  mast-heads, 
iviiilei'od  it  a  service  of  extreme  danger  to  loose  the  main- 
-lil;  l)ut  no  sooner  was  the  order  given,  than   the   daring 
[lirit  of  the  British  seanum  manifested  itself— the  men  ran 
lip  the  rigging  Avith  as  much  alacrity  as  on   any  ordinary 
■na.sion;  and,  although  more  than  once  driven  otf  tlie  yard, 
'Wy   after    a    short   time    sucee*.'ded    in    loosing    the    sail. 
Amidst  the  roar  of  the  wind  and  sea,  it  was  ditticult  both  to 
ii'iiv  and  to  execute  the  orders  that  were  given,  so  that  it 
•as  three-quarters  of  an  hour  before  wc  coidd  get  the  yards 
'"ict'd  by,  and  the  maintack  haided  on  board  sharp    aback 
-an  expedient  that  perhaps  had  never  before  been  resorted 
"hv  seamen  in  such  weather;  but  it  liad  the  desin<l  elfc.-ct  ; 
•k' ship  gathered  sternway,  plunging  her  stern  into  the  srii, 


488 


Tin:    POLAR    WORI.I). 


and  witli  hor  lower  jiinl-arnis  Hcnipiiif,'  the  rntj:<^n'(l  fiicc  of 
the  l)or<^,  we  in  a  few  niinutoa  rt'iiclMM]  its  wcstt-vu  tenninn- 
tion  ;  the  '•'•  undcr-tow,"  us  it  is  culled,  or  the  rcuftidn  ol'tlio 
water  from  its  vertical  cliffs,  alone  proventin<j:  us  beiu^^  driven 
to   utonis    aijainst   it.     No  sooner  had  we  cleared   it   IJiaii 
another  was  seen  directly  astern  of  ns,  a^^-ainst  wliich  we 
were  rnnnino-;  and  the  ditficnlty  now  was  to  ^'et  the  ship's 
head  turned  round  and  pointed  fairly  through  between  tlni 
two  bergs,  the  breadth  of  the  intervening  space  not  exceedin;^;- 
three  times  her  own  breadth.     This,  however,  wo  hai)pily  iir- 
eoniplished ;  and  in  a  few  minutes,  after  getting  before  tlie 
wind,  she  dashed  through  the  narrow  channel  between  two 
perpendiculur  walls  of  ice,  and  the  foaming  breakers  wliieh 
stretched  across  it,  and  the  next  moment  we  were  in  sniouth 
water,    under   its   lee.     The    "  Teri'or's "   light  Avas  iiiinie- 
diately  seen  and  answered  ;  she  had  rounded  to  waiting-  f(»r 
us  ....  ,  and,  as  soon  as  day  broke,  we  had  the  grutifi- 
cation  of  learning  that  she   had   not  suffered   any  serious 
damage.' 

On  December  17,  Sir  James  Ross  sailed  from  the  Falklaiul 
Islands  with  the  intention  of  following  the  track  of  ^Veddt  II. 
as,  from  the  account  of  that  daring  navigator,  he  had  evtiv 
reason  to  expect  to  find  a  clear  sea,  which  would  enal)le  him 
considerably  to  extend  the  limits  of  geographical  knowledi^i' 
towards  the  Pole.  He  was  disappointed,  for  though  ho  dis- 
covered some  new  land  (03° — 01°  30'  S.  hit.,  55° — 57°  ^V. 
long.)  to  the  south  of  D'Urville's  Terre  Louis  Philippe,  yot 
the  pack-ice  so  blocked  his  progress,  that  the  farthest  point 
he  could  attain  was  in  lat.  71°  30'  S.,  long.  11°  51'  W.  On  | 
March  1  he  recrossed  the  Antarctic  Circle,  and  on  the  2.St]i 
of  the  same  month  dropped  his  anchors  at  the  Cape.  Tluis 
ended  this  most  remarkable  voyage,  so  honourable  to  all  J 
engaged  in  it,  for,  as  Sir  John  Richardson  justly  renmrks. 
'the  perseverance,  daring,  and  coolness  of  the  commandiiiu' 
officer,  of  the  other  officers,  and  of  the  crews  of  the  "Ere-j 
bus"  and  "Terror"  was  never  surpassed,  and  have  beoiij 
rarely,  if  ever,  equalled  by  seamen  of  any  nation.' 

Since  then  the  '  Pagoda,'  wliich  had  been  sent  out  by  tlioj 
Admiralty  for  the  purpose  of  observing  magnetic  phenoineii;iJ 


ROSS  S    RKTIRX, 


480 


ICO  of 
mura- 
of  the 
dvivt'ii 
i  tluiu 
icli  we 
I  ship's 
3011  tho 
coeding 
ipily  iic- 
t'ore  tlw 
eeii  two 
rs  wliicli 
1  smooth 
s  iiinne- 
litiny  for 
e  gratiti- 
y  serious 


in  a  qnartor  of  tho  Antarctic  Sous  thiit  liad  not  boon  visitod 
by  Sir  Janios  Ross,  attainod  tho  "'hvl  paraUol,  hut  no  nioro 
rocont  oxpodition  has  boon  fitted  ont  to  prosocnto  his  dis- 
covorios,  and  no  nuin  after  him  has  soon  Mount  Kn'hus 
vomitin*^  forth  its  torrents  of  llanio,  oi'  traced  th(3  stnpt'iidous 
barrier  wliich  stopped  liis  pro|,«'ross  to  tho  l*olo. 


ZLfiritiS^i'^ 


Tho  Sca-Elepliai.t. 


theiiou\en;i| 


;:>tiuit  ot  Magellan. 

(From  .'111  uni^iiiiil  Hrie-.Lh  \iy  i  i    U.rl';k  Wliymr'-'O 


CHArTEIl  XXXVTTI. 


THK    KTllAIT    OF    iMAii  lOLLAN. 

Duscrijilioii  of  the  Strait — ^^'(■st^'l'n  I'hiti'iiiU'i — Point  l>iiu;;iiii'!3fs — Tliu  Niiriuws— 
S.iiiil  I'liilip's  IJiiy — Cape  Fr(j\viir(l — •Graiul  Se'ciicrv  Port  I'iiinini — Tlif  SiiIl'i' 
Ilivrr — Dai'wiii's  Ascent  of  Moiml  Tani — 'i'lif  ImcIii'Ioi-  liivir  —  I'lii;;!!-!! 
Ri'acli — Sia  Ifcach-  Soulli  Dcsohilioii  llarliotii'  of  JVlrii'y — ^\'illi\^^•|\vs— I'i-- 
covcry  of  tile  Strait  by  Araj^rllaii  (Oclolici'  20,  l;V_'l) — IlnilvO — Saniiiniio 
Caveiulish  —  Sclioutoii  and  Lo  JMairo  —  JJymn — lliin;^aiiivilli;  Wallis  ;^i.  1 
Cartori't —Kinijf  and  I'itzroy  Sctllcnicnt  at  Piinta  Ai'inas — Inc-rcasiiii;-  l'a,-si_' 
tliroiigli  till.'  Strait — A  future  lliijliway  of  Coniincrco. 

rPHE  celebrated  strait  wliicli  bears  the  name  of  Mno-clLii'. 
J-     is  <»"eiierally  pictured  as  the  scene  of  a  wild  tuid  dre: 
desolation ;  but  though  its  climate  is  far  from  hciu<y  geiii. 
and  its  skies  are  often  veiled  with  mists  and  rain,  yet  natuiv 
can  smile  even  here. 

A  o-lance  at  the  map  shows  ns  the  extreme  irreaiiLirity 
of  its  formation,  as  it  is  constantlv  chann-iiur  in  Avidtli  ;ni'l 
direction;  now  swelling-  almost  to  the  magnitude  of  a  ^l"li- 


I'OII.MATIOX    OF    MAdKI.LANS   STItAIT. 


401 


.Siii'iiii''''" 
Will  lis  :>! 


In    f^ 

,-ot  nature 

[vou'ularity 

|vi(Uh  aiiAj 


tcrnniotin  S(>n,  and  tlion  nLjain  o<»i)ii'ii<'tiii;,^  \o  n  iiiirrow  |nis- 
8iii,'t';  soiiu'tiiiU'S  (iikiii;^'  ii  i'ii|>id  tiii-ii  to  ilif  iiorili,  iiiid  at 
(itlicrs  as  Huddf'uly  dcviatin;^^  !<•  the  south.  Ishiiids  uikI 
islets  of'i'vory  iurin — S(»mo  niiTc  iialctMl  v(>cl<s,  otlu-rs  rlutlicd 
with  uiMbrajjfcous  woods — arc  soattorrd  (»vcr  its  siirfiico  ;  pro- 
iiituitorit'S  withcait  nnnihcr,  tVoiii  the  I'atan'oniiiii  iii;iiiil;iiid 
the  Ku(>f>"iaii  archipcla;''*.*,  protnah'  their  hold  iVonts  into 
bosom,  as  if  witli  th».'  intt'iitioti  of  ('h)siii;4'  it  iilloi^cthcr ; 
oiiiith'ss  bays  and  havens  are  seoo[ted  into  its  I'oeky 
s,  as  if  tlio  H(ni  in  a  thonsainldilferont  phices  hud  striven 
to  o))en  a  now  passiij^e  to  lior  waters. 

The  western  entranee  of  this  reniarkabh'  strait  is  formed 

by  (^neen    Catherine's    Foreland   (C*ape   Virj^-ins)    and    l*oint 

Dun;4'enoss,  the  hitter  having-  been  thns  named  from  its  re- 

seiublanco  to   the   well  known  Kentish   promontory  at   the 

eiistern  month  t>f  the  channel.     Althon;^'h  it  rises  at  most 

iiiiie   feet  above   low-water   mark,  the  snow-white  breakers 

whi(di  the  tides  are  constantly  dashing'  over  its  sides,  rentier 

it  visible  from  a  ^'reat  distance.     It  is  ^'enerally  the  resort  of 

a  number  of  sea-lions.     When  the  wind  comes  blowin<>'  from 

lorth-oast,  the  passing  mariner — who,  fn^m  the  shallow 

0  of  the  shore,  is  oblii^vd  to  keep  at  some  distance  from 

Ness — hears  their  hoarse  bellowini;*,  Avhich  harmonises 

with    the  Aviid    and    desolate   character  of  the    sceni'. 

itrosses   and  petrels  hover  about  them,    wliiU'   rows   «tf 

-lookin<4-  pen;4-nins    seem  to    contemplate  their  doin^^-s 

pliiloso|»hic  inditforenco. 

yond    those  promontories,  the  strait   Avidens   into    l*os- 

n  Bay,  which  at  Punta  Del;4'ada.  and  Cape  ()ran;^'e  con- 

to   a    na  rrow  passay;o.     This  leads  int<j  a.  wide  basin, 

Spaniards    have    y-iven    the    name   of   Saint 

id  which  ayain  terminat(^s  in  a  second  narrow 

•r  '       unci,  a  formation  resembling'  on  a  small  scale 

tlio  S,     of  Marmora,  which,  as  wc  all  know,  has  likewise  the 

iiici>  of  a  lake,   receiving"  and  discharyiny   its  waters 

tlini,  .Ji  the  Dardanel'  s  and  the  Strait  of  Constantinople. 

DmiiiLi-  the  rising'  of  tl     Hood,  a  stnmg  current  flows  throui-'h 


all  til 
jlqi 


ese 


ayi 


and 


'W 


s  from  the  west,    so  as   to  al 


low 


)s  an  easy  passaj. 


'ven  aa'ainst  the  wind:  but  durin<:!: 


492 


Tlin:    POLAR    WORLD. 


ebb  tido,  the  current  turns  to  the  east,  so  that  at  this  fime 
a  vessel,  even  when  favoareil  by  the  wind,  makes  but  little 
proo-ress,  or  is  even  oblig-ed  to  anchor  to  avoid  losing-  o-vouiid. 
When  Mao-ellan,  after  sailinn-  round  Cape  Viryins,  pene- 
trated into  the  strait,  this  circumstance  at  once  convinced 
that  fi-reat  navigator  that  he  was  not  in  an  enclosed  bay,  Imt 
in  an  open  channel,  which  Avould  lead  him  into  anotlier 
ocean.  Thus  far  the  country  on  both  sides  of  the  strait 
consists  of  nearly  level  plains,  like  those  of  Patagonia  ;  but 
beyond  the  second  Narrows,  the  land  begins  to  assume  the 
more  bold  and  picturesque  appearance  which  is  character- 
istic of  Tierra  del  Fuego.  Mountains  rise  above  mountains 
with  deep  intervening  valleys,  all  covered  by  one  thick, 
dusky  mass  of  forest ;  while  farther  to  the  east,  scarcely  a 
bush  clothes  the  naked  soil.  The  trees  reach  to  an  elevation 
of  between  1,000  and  1,500  feet,  and  are  succeeded  by  a  band 
of  peat,  with  minute  Alpine  plants,  and  this  again  is  succeeded 
by  the  line  of  perpetual  snow,  which,  according  to  Captain 
King,  descends  to  between  8,000  and  4,000  feet. 

The  finest  scenery  about  the  Strait  of  Magellau  is  un- 
doubtedly to  the  east  of  Cape  Troward,  the  most  soutlicrly 
point  of  the  mainland  of  South  America.  This  promontory, 
which  consists  of  a  steep  mass  of  rock  about  800  feet  hi<:!li, 
abutting  from  a  mountain  chain  of  about  2,000  or  .'5,0()0  feet 
in  height,  forms  the  boundary  between  two  very  different 
climates,  for  to  the  east  the  weather  is  finer  and  more  agree- 
able than  to  the  west,  where  wind  and  rain  are  almost  jer- 
petual. 

On  the  Patagonian  j^lains,  the  drought  and  the  want  of 
protection  against  the  piercing  winds  almost  entirely  imptMl'' 
vegetation;  but  the  country  between  Cape  Negro — a  litf!-' 
within  the  second  Narrows — and  Cape  Froward,  or  tht^ 
eastern  shore  of  Brunswick  peninsula,  is  shielded  by  its  situ- 
ation against  the  almost  perpetual  storms  from  the  west,  ami 
enjoys,  moreover,  a  sufficiency  of  rain,  and  now  and  tlitii 
serene  weather.  As,  moreover,  the  soil  in  this  central  jiair 
of  the  strait  consists  of  disintegrated  clay-slate,  wliieli  is  , 
most  favourable  to  the  growth  of  trees,  the  forests,  from  iill'| 
these  cause  i,  are  finer  here  than  anywhere  else. 

The  country  about   Port   Famine    is   particularly  distiii- 1 


i 


('diue 
the  g 
liave 
has  t; 
(lescri 
'  TJ; 

laiidin 

n-ater, 

iUx'ts  V 

]iteral]_ 

iitl'urd  i 

and  ])Qi 

of  celer 

ill  tlirm 

'I  mil 

of  tlie  , 

Host  era 

is  conip] 

ii'i'oand. 

afford  a 

')ftiies  bl 

from   tht 

"hieli,  Av 

fOill'S     iiJo 

-Arrest,. il 
'ilsf  ,,i,t  ^ 
>iiilc  to  ih 

'  flavin 

'"rest    Avi; 

Aiitiiivtic 

:"'  trvt  hi, 

'"■''  Uyo  ()< 
'""1  a  spoc 
■"'''  iiiiieJi 
tile  except 

"''•'''I-,  tlu'S 
"iituralist- 


I'OKT    FA.MINH 


49  ;J 


ly  ai>tin- 


•'uislied  for  the  ricliut'ss  of  its  voii-etation,  and  both  for  this 
reason,  and  from  its  central  situation,  this  hiirbour  has  be- 
come a  kind  of  eliief  station  for  the  ships  that  pass  thron^'h 
the  strait.  Several  unfortunate  attempts  at  colonisation 
have  been  made  at  Port  Famine ;  here  many  a  naturalist 
has  tarried,  and  thus  no  part  of  the  strait  has  been  oftener 
described,  or  more  accurately  observed. 

'  The  anchorag-e,'  says  Dumont  d'Urville,  who,  in  December, 
18:57,  spent  several  days  at  Port  Famine,  '  is  (excellent,  and 
kndin<^  everywhere  easy.  A  fine  rivulet  <,nves  ns  excellent 
water,  and  the  neiylibouring  furests  mii^-ht  furnish  whole 
fleets  with  the  necessary  fuel.  The  cliffs  alouf^  the  shore  are 
literally  covered  with  nnissels,  limpets,  and  whelks,  whieh 
ati'ord  a  delicious  variety  of  fare  to  a  crew  tired  of  salt  beef 
and  ]>eas.  Among-  the  plants  I  noticed  with  pleasure  a  species 
of  celery,  wdiich,  with  another  herb  resembling-  our  corn  Hower 
in  form  and  taste,  gives  promise  of  an  excellent  salad. 

'I  made  rise  of  my  first  leisure  to  visit  the  romantic  banks 

of  the  Sedger  liiver,   which  discharges   its  waters  on  the 

western  side  of  the  port.     At  its  mouth  the  swampy  strand 

is  completely  covered  with  enormous  trees  heaped  upon  the 

ground.     These  naked   giants,    stri}»ped   of  their  branches, 

afford  a  remarkable  spectacle  :  they  might  be  taken  for  huge 

bones  bleached   by  time.     No  doubt  they  are   transported 

finm   the   neighbouring  fV)rest  by  the  waters  of  the  river, 

which,  when  it  overflows  its  banks,  after  a  deluge  of  rain, 

ti.'ars   along  with   it  the  trees  it  meets  Avitli  in  its   course. 

Arrested  by  the  bar  at  the  month  of  the  stream,  they  are 

liist  out  upon  its  banks,  where  they  remain  when  the  waters 

sink  to  their  usual  level. 

'  Having  crossed  the  river,  T  entered  the  large  and  fine 

I'uvst    with    which  it    is  bordered.     The    chief   tree  is    the 

Autiiretic  beech  {F(((jiis  bdnloiths)  whieh  is  often  from  (!()  to 

'•'I'  ft-et  high,  and  about :}  feet  in  diameter.     Along  with  this 

iiio  two  other  trees,  the  winter's  bark  {]Vtiitfrl(i  urotiKtlitui) 

mil  a  species  of  berberis,  with  a  very  si>lid  wood  ;  but  they 

iiiv  much  less  abundant,  and  of  a  nnich  smaller  size.     With 

iho  exception   of  mosses,  lichens,  and  other  plants  (»f  this 

"I'llt'r,  these  forests  afford  but  little  that  is  intei-esting  to  the 

naturalist — no  quadrupeds,  no  reptiles,  no  land-snails  ;  a  few 


494 


THE    rOLAR    WORLD. 


insects  nii<l  some  birds  are  the  only  spociiueiis  to  be  f^'aiiicd 
after  a  hn\<^  senrcli.    After  (•ollcctiiiij;-  ao-ood  suji])!}'  ((f  iiiuss(,'s 
and  liobens,  I  returned  to  the  boat  for  the  purpose  of  rowini,' 
lip  (he  river.     Ahliou<4'h  the  current  •svas  tok'rably  rapi<l.  we 
advanced  about  two   miles,  adniirii)<T^  the  beauty  of  its  um- 
brageous banlvS.     On  my  return  I  sh(jt  two  g'eese  thai  were 
crossiuo-  the  river  over  our  heads,  and  whose  excelh'ut  meat 
amply  sup])lied   my  table  for   several  days.     This,  together 
with  the  little  o-obios  -which  were  abundantly  caiin'ht  with 
hand-lines,  the  laro-e  mussels  -we  detached  from  the  rocks, 
aiul  the  celery  salad,  ^ave  me  dinners  tit  for  an  alderman. 
How  often  since  have  I  re^Tetted  the  plenty  of  Port  Famine!' 
In  the  month  of  February    (bS:*!),  in  the   heii^-ht  of  tlie 
Antarctic  sunnner,  Mr.  Darwin  ascended  Monnt  Tarn,  whi.  li 
is  2, ()()()  feet  hig'h,  and  the  most  elevited  point  in  the  vicinitv 
of  Port   Famine.     'The  forest,'  says   our   j^reat   luituralist, 
'commences  at  the  line  of  hiii-h-water  mark,  and  during-  llic 
first  two  hours  I  gave  over  all  hopes  of  reaching  the  suuuiiit. 
So  thick  was  the  wood,  that  it  was  necessary  to  have  constant 
recourse   to  the  compass,   for  every  landmark,  though  in  a 
mountainous  country,  was  completely  shut  out.     In  the  deep 
ravines,   the    death-like    scene    of   desolation    exceeded    all 
description ;  outside   it  was    blowing    a    gale,  but   in   these 
holloAvs  not  even  a  breath  of  wind  stirred  the  leaves  of  the 
tallest  trees.     So  gloomy,  C(dd,  and  wet  was  every  part,  that 
not  even  the  fungi,  mosses,  or  ferns  could  llourish.     In  the 
valleys   it  was  scarcely  possible  to  crawl  along,   they  weii' 
so  completely  barricaded  by  great  mouldering  trunks,  which 
had  fallen  down    in    every   directicm.     When   passing  dver 
these   ntitural  bridges,   one's  course  was  often  arrested  hy 
sinking   knee-deep  into   the  rotten   W(»od;    at  other  times, 
Avhen  attemiiting  to  lean   against  a   tree,  one  was  staitk'il 
by  huding  a    mass   of  decayed  nnitter.  ready  to  fall  at  tin' 
sliii'litest   touch.     We    at    last  found    ourselves    amoULT  tlu' 
stunted  trees,  and  then  soon  reached  the  bare  ridge,  which 
conducted  us  to  ihe  summit.    Here  was  a  view  cliaraiteiistic 
of  Tierra  del  Fuego ;   irregular  chains  of  hills,  mottled  witJi 
patches  of  sin»w,  deep  yellowish-green  valleys,  and  arms  ot' 
the    sea,    inlersecting    the    land    in    many   directions.     The 
strong  wind  was  ))iereingly  cold,  and   the  atmosphere  I'litlnT: 


YOKK  ROADS  AND  BACIll^LOR  TKAK. 


495 


1       f' 

nilt'tl  ^: 

.osses 

(I.    \V>' 

s  uin- 

rocks, 
.en  linn, 
iiniii'''. " 

of    til'' 

\,  wliieli 

vichiity 

tturalist, 

irin<^'  U»^ 
smuiuit. 
oonstant 
ULi'b  in  a 
ilie  d<"''l> 
.('(Ird    all 
in   tU'^^t' 
est  •I"  the   j;^ 
|Mvt.  lliut  :,; 
.     In  the 
liey  ^v^•l•'' 
ks,  \vhi''h   . 

siu'J,'  t'^'^'^' 
,restf<l  I'V 

lier  tini'-^ 
s  stavlle'l  :: 
[all  al  th" 
uoUL?  the  a; 
lo-e,  wlueli 
Inu'tevistu'  ^ 
lule.l  with  I 
[l  anus  "t 
ons.    I'l"' 
„nv  vath'V 


hazy,  so  that  Ave  did  not  stay  loiifj  on  the  top  of  the  mountain. 
Our  descent  was  not  quite  so  laborious  as  our  ascent;  for 
ilie  weight  of  tlic  body  forced  a  passag-e.  and  all  the  slips 
and  falls  AV(^re  in  the  ri^-ht  direction.' 

To  the   Avest  of  CSipe    Froward,   the  strait  extends   in   a 

iKirth-westerly,  almost  r(>ctilinear  direction,  until  it  finally 

dlieus  into  the  Pacitic,  between  Cape  Pillar  and  Cape  Victory. 

Here  a  day  rarely  passes  without  rain,  hail,  or  snow.    Where 

the  dreadful  power  of  the  prevailing-  winds  has  free  play,  the 

mountain  sides  are  naked  and  bare,  but  in  every  sheltered 

nook   the   damp    climate  produces   a   luxuriant  vegetation. 

The  trees,  however,  do  not  attain  any  great  height,  and  at 

Port  Gallant,  the  beech  is  already  decidedly  stunted  in  its 

growth.     This  is  no  doubt  caused  by  the  excessive  humidity 

of  the  soil,  which  in  all  lower  situations  is   converted  by 

the  continual  rains  into  a.  deep  morass.     The  trunks  and  the 

branches   are   covered   with  a   thick  layer  of  moss,  and  the 

tree  becomes  rotten  in  its  youth.     But  many  shrid^s,  herbs, 

;sih1  mosses   thrive  uinh'r  the  perpetual  deluge ;  the  latter 

particularly,  covering  large  patches  of  g'round  Avith  a  spong^y 

I'liriiet.     It  may  easily  be  iinag-ined  hoAV  difficult,  or  rather 

imi)ossible  it  must  be  to  penetrate  into  the  interior  of  such 

a  country.     Yet   even    these  Avild  inhospitable  reg'ious  can 

biiast  of  many  a  romantic  scene.     Thus  the  English  Reach, 

whieh  extends  from  Ca})e  Froward  to  C*arh)S  Island,  is  bouiuh'd 

iiu  Ixith  sides  by  h)fty  mountains,  their  cones  or  jagged  peaks 

mvered  Avith  eternal  snow.     Its  southern  bank,  i'ormed  by 

I'laveuce    Island,    is    intersected    with    bays    and    channels, 

'WO  of  which,  ]\Iagdalena  Sound  and  Barbara  Channel,  lead 

'iiroiiu'li  a  iiia/e  of  islands  into  the  open  sea.    ScA'cral  gdaciers 

'.•■sfciid   ill  a  winding  course  from  the  upiier  great  expanse 

t' snow  to  tlie  sea  coast,  and  many  a,  cascade  comes  dashing 

i'lwii  from  rock  to  rock,      ykognian  *  draAvs  an  (enthusiastic 

Meture  of  the  beauty  of  York  lloads,  near  the  mouth  of  the 

Miiiill  Bacdielor  liiver.     To  the  south,  l)ehiiid  Carlos  Island, 

iii'nuitains  rise  above  mountains,  and  snow-tields  al)<»ve  snow- 

tii'lds ;  to  the  north,  lies  the  jagged  c(dossus,  which  from  its 

>"iitarv  grandeui-  has   boon   i-alled    r>;ich(dor    Peak,   and  at 

vlio  ■       .)t  the  crystal  river  now  hides  itself  beneath  a  shady 

^  \'iiv,i^i'  ot'  ill.   S\vi.cli>h  >liiji  •  I'iuiiciiii'.* 


406 


TJIH    rOLAK    WOULD. 


-vood,  iuul  now  rolls  its  ci'ysliil  Aviitcrs  tlirouy,-li  a  green  lawn, 
deeoriited  with  clumps  of  riiclisias.  But  in  spite  of  its 
romantic  beauty,  the  want  of  life  yives  a  melancholy  cha- 
racter to  this  solitar}"^  vale.  Beyond  Carlos  Island  in  Loijj 
Keach,  the  banks  of  the  strait  become  yet  more  Ijare 
and  des<jlate.  Veg'etation  descends  lower  and  lower  into 
the  valh'ys,  and  even  here  the  trees  are  misshapen  and 
dwarfish.  But  the  mountain  scenery  has  still  all  tlie 
majesty  which  snow-fields  and  glaciers  of  a  beryl-like  blue 
impart  to  an  Alpine  landscape.  As  Sea  Keach  shows  itself, 
vegetation  is  almost  totally  extinct,  and  on  approaching  the 
mouth  of  the  strait,  the  mountains  become  loAver,  their 
forms  are  less  picturesque,  and  instead  of  the  stern  grandeur 
which  marks  the  middle  part  of  the  strait,  low,  rounded, 
barren  hills  make  their  appearance,  which  completely  justify 
the  name  of  South  Desolation,  wdiich  Sir  James  Narboroiigh 
gave  to  this  coast,  '  because  it  w'as  so  desolate  a  land  to 
behold.' 

It  may  easily  be  inmgined  that  the  prevailing  Avinds  beyond 
Cape  Froward  are  extremely  troublesome  to  ships  sailing-  to 
the  Avestern  mouth  of  the  strait,  and  that  if  not  entirely 
beaten  back,  they  can  frequently  ordy  force  the  passiitic 
after  many  etforts.  Fortunately,  the  deeply  indented  coasts  ^ 
possess  a  number  of  small  havens  which  may  serve  the  nmriner 
as  stations  during  his  gradual  advance.  Thus,  close  to  the  'A 
mouth  of  the  strait,  Avliere,  between  C^ape  Victory  and  C;i|ii.'  |'^ 
Pillar,  the  sea  during  and  after  storms  is  so  boisterous  that 
even  steamers  require  their  utmost  strength  not  to  be  daslitd 
against  the  rocks,  a  secure  port,  approinuately  called  'Har- 
bour of  Mercy,'  allows  the  vessels  to  Avatch  for  more  tran- 
quil Aveather,  and  to  seize  the  first  faA^ourable  opportunity  fur 
emerging  into  the  02)en  sea.  But  even  these  harbours  and 
bays  are  subject  to  peculiar  '>nigers  from  sudden  gusts  o: 
Avind  that  come  SAveeping  down  *  .-om  the  mountains,  and  are 
known  among  the  seal  catcdiers  Avho  frequent  these  dang'orous 
Avaters  under  the  name  of  vilUiraics,  or  hurricane  sqiialls.j 
For  Avhen  the  Avild  south-w-est  storms  come  rushing  a^iaius 
the  mountain-masses  of  Tierra  del  Fuego,  the  compressed  ai; 
precipitates",  itself  Avith  redoubled  violence  over  the  rock-wall 
and  tluui  suddenly  expanding,  flows  down  the  A'alleys  or  ;iullii* 


'■"•■"U'lieiej 


THE    CAPE    OV   THE    VJROIXS. 


497 


iwn, 
'    its 

Lon'^ 

bar*' 

'   into 

I  aiul 

II  tlie 
e  Uuc 

i  its(>lf, 

Lun-  ill'-! 

•,  tlirir 
rantleuv 
ounded, 
V  justify 
bovou'^'li 
laud  to 


Is  uv  '^'^dlu 


toariii<^-  up  trees  by  tlui  roots,  and  liurliii<j;-  rocks  into  the 
abvss.  Where  sncli  a  g'ust  of  wiiul  touches  the  surface  of 
the  water,  the  sea  surges  in  niij^-hty  waves,  and  vohnnes  <»f 
s}>ray  are  Avhirkul  away  to  a  vast  distance.  If  a  ship  conies 
uinli'V  its  infhience,  its  safety  depends  mainly  upon  the 
sti'i'ii^'tli  of  its  anchor  roi)os. 

8onie  situations  are  particuhirly  subject  to  williwaws,  and 
then  the  total  want  of  vej^etation  and  the  evident  marks  of 
mill  al(>n<4'  the  mountain  slopes  warn  the  mariner  to  avoid 
the  nei^-hbourhood.  In  Gabriel  Channel,  Captain  Kin^  saw 
a  spot  where  the  williwaws,  bursting  over  the  mountains  on 
tilt'  south  side,  had  swept  down  the  declivities,  and  then  rush- 
inif  against  the  foot  of  the  opposite  hills  had  again  dashed 
upwards  with  such  fury  as  to  carry  away  with  them  every- 
thing that  could  possibly  be  detached  fnjm  the  bare  rock. 

It  was  a  memorable  day  in  the  annals  of  maritime  dis- 

euwry  (October  20,  l-Vil)  when  Magellan  reached  the  eastern 

ntrance  of  the  strait  that  was  to  lead  him,  tirst  of  all  Euro- 

peiui  navigators,  from  the  broad  basin  of  the  Atlantic  into 

ilie  still  wider  expanse  of  the  Pacitic  Ocean.    It  was  the 

by  dedicated  in  the  Catholic  calendar  to   St.   Ursula  and 

!ier  eleven  thousand  virgins,  and    he    consequently  named 

lie  promontory  which  lirst  struck  his  view,  '  Cabo   de    las 

'irgiiies.'     The  flood-tide   streaming  violently   to  the  west 

nviuced  him  that  he  was  at  the  mouth  of  an  open  channel, 

lit  he  had  scarcely  provisions  for  three   months — a  short 

Jtiwance  for  venturing  into  an  unknown  world,  and  thus 

tore  he    attempted  the   passage    he    convoked    a   council 

all  his  oflicers.     Some  w^ere  for  an  innnediate  return  to 

uoi>t',  but  the  majority  voted  for  the  continuation  of  the 

yii<i'e,  and  Magellan  declared  that  should  they  even  bo  re- 

I'l'd  to  eat  the  leather  of  their  shoes  he  would  persevere 

the  last,  and  with  God's  assistance  execute  the  commands 

Ills  imperial  master  Charles  V.     He  then  at  once  gave 

It'is  to  enter  the  strait  full  sail,  and  on  pain  of  death  for- 

l"  any  one  to  say  a  word  more  about  a  return,  or  the  want 

I'l'i.ivisions. 

Fititunately  the  winds  were  in  his  favour,  for  had  the  usual 
"ineneies  of  this  stormy  region  opposed  him,  there  is  no 

K  Iv 


4i>S 


TIIH    POI.AH    WORLD. 


doubt  that  with  such  crazy  vessels,  and  sucli  diseoiitentcil 
crews,  all  his  heroism  would  have  failed  to  ensure  success. 
It  was  the  spring  of  the  southern  hemisphere,  and  the  stniit 
showed  itself  in  one  of  its  rare  aspects  of  calm.  Miiiiv 
fisli  were  caught,  and,  as  Pigafetti,  the  historian  of  llic 
voyage,  relates,  the  aromatic  winter's  bark  which  served 
them  for  fuel  '  wonderfully  refreshed  and  invigorated  their 
spirits.' 

The  fircfj  kindled  by  the  savages  on  the  southern  side 
during  the  night  induced  Magellan  to  give  that  part  of  the 
country  the  name  of  Tierra  del  Fuego,  or  Fireland ;  while 
from  their  high  stature  and  bulky  frames,  he  called  the  in- 
habitants of  the  opposite  mainland,  Patagonians  (pata^foii 
being  the  Spanish  augmentative  of  pata,  foot). 

Although  several  da3's  were  lost  in  exi)loring  some  of  the 
numerous  passages  and  bays  of  the  straits,  its  eastern  iiiontlij 
was  reached  on  November  28,  and  Magellan  saw  tlie  wide] 
Pacific  expand  before  him. 

In  1525,  Charles  V.  sent  out  a  new  expedition  of  six  vessels,] 
under  Garcia  de  Loaisa,  to  circumnavigate  the  glol)e.  Tliej 
vice-admiral  of  the  squadron  was  Sebastian  el  Caiio,  who,] 
after  the  death  of  Magellan,  had  brought  the  illustrieiis 
navigator's  ship  safely  back  to  Europe,  and  as  a  reward  Ikk 
been  ennobled  with  the  globe  in  his  coat  of  arms,  and  tlu 
motto,  '  Primus  circumdedisti  me.' 

Loaisa  entered  the  strait  on  January  20,  152(>,  but  he  w;i# 
beaten  back  by  storms  as  far  as  the  river  Santa  Cruz.    Oi^ 
April  8,  he  once  more  attempted  the  j^assage,  and  eniei';^v(J 
into  the  Pacific  on  May  25. 

Simon  de  Alcazaba,  who  in  1584  attempted  to  pass  the 
Magellans  with  a  number  of  emigrants  for  Peru  was  1  "Sl 
successful,  but  in  1539  Alfonso  de  Camargo,  having  lost  t\vo 
vessels  in  the  strait,  passed  it  with  the  third,  and  reaclied 
the  port  of  Callao. 

Until  now  the  Spanish  flag  had  alone  been  seen  in  tliej 
remote  and  solitary  waters,  but  the  time  w^as  come  wlu 
they  were  to  open  a  passage  to  its  most  inveterate  foes. 
August    20,  1570,  Francis  Drake,  commissioned   by  Quo^ 
Elizabeth  to  plunder  and  destroy  the  Spanish  settleuieat^ 


I'iissage 


IJRA K K    A \ I)    SA \U\  I KNTO. 


499 


W' 


tlie   west   coast  of  Aiuerit'ii,   ran   into   the    strait,  and  on 
December  0  sallied  forth  into  the  Pacific. 

To  meet  this  formidable  enemy,  the  Viceroy  of  Pern  sent 

out  in  the  same  year  two  ships  nnder  Pedro  Harmiento  do 

(liiniboa.     His   orders    were   to    intercept   Drake's   passage 

tlirong-h  the  strait  and  then  to  sail  on  to  Spain.     Thonj^di  he 

liiilod  in  the  object  of  his  mission,  yet  Sarmiento  displayed  in 

•lie  navi<j;ation  of  the  intricate  and  dan<^'erous  i)assag"es  alon*^' 

;liL'  south-west  coast  of  America,  the  coiuvage  and  skill  of  a 

iiusummate  seaman,  and  he  <^'avethe  lirst  exact  and  detailed 

i'Count  of  the  land  and  waters  of  Fne<jfia.     His  voyajjfc,  ac- 

urdinjjf  to  the  weij^hty  testimony  of  Captain  Kin;^',  deserves  to 

be  noted  as  one  of  the  most  useful  of  the  aye  in  which  it  was 

iviformed. 

Oil  his  arrival  in  tSi»aiii,  Sarmiento  strono-ly  pointed  out 
the  necessity  of  establishing  a  colony  and  erecting-  a  fort  in 
die  strait  (at  that  time  the  only  known  passag'e  to  the  Pacific), 
so  as  eft'ectually  to  prevent  the  recurrence  of  a  future  hostile 
expedition,  like  that  of  Drake.     Commissioned  by  Philii^  11. 
V  c'iirry  his  plans  into  execution,  he  founded  a  colony,  to 
•in<>,  wli'S^l'*''^^'!*^  1^*-'   gave  the  name  of  Ciudad   de    San    Felipe,  but 
iUustvi*'^^*^  M^ '''^''^'^*'''^    ^^  disasters   entirely    destroyed    it;    and  when,  a 
•w  years  later.  Cavendish,  who  had  fitted  out  three  ships 
:t  liis  own  expense  to  imitate  the  example  of  Drake,  ap- 
^riived  in  the  strait,  he  found  but  three  survivors  of  many 
but  ho  wiU^B'ii'th'eds,  and  gave  the  scene  of  their  misery  the  appropriate 
line  of  Port  Famine,  which  it  has  retained  to  the  present  day. 
After  Cavendish  and  Hawkins  (1594),  the  Dntch  navig-a- 
rsDe  Cordes  (1599),  Oliver  Van  Noort  (1599),  and  Spilberg- 
i)l-V),  attempted,  Avith  more  or  less  success,  to  sail  through 
li' strait  with  the  intention  of  harassing  and  plundering  the 
piniards  on  the  coast  of  the  Pacitic. 

Strange  to  say,  no  attempt  had  been  made  since  Magellan 
iliscover  a  passage  farther  to  the  south,  so  universal  and 
inly  established  was  the  belief  that  Fuegia  extended  with- 
[•' interruption  to  the  regions  of  eternal  ice,  until  at  length, 
P'Uii,  the  Dutchmen,  Schouten  and  Le  Maire,  discovered 
liassage  round  Cape  Horn.     Two  years  later,  Garcia  de 


.'ntc\l 

ecess. 
strait 
;Mauy 
of  tlu 
servcA 
1  their 

rn   side 
t  of  th'' 

\;  while 

L  the  iu- 
(piitagou 

ac  of  the 
in  mouth 
the  wide 

six  vessels,] 


h)V>e. 


Tlvel 


lis,  uiul  tlv 


Cruz. 


0^ 


id  ouier'j;o<l 


I  to  pass 


mg  lost  t\^ 
Ivud  reaebe 

tliel 


leou  w 


M 


coiue 
ite  foes. 

\\  bv  n''^^ 

luleuK'i'A^ 


iales  sailed  through  the  Strait  of  Le  Maire,  and  returning 

K    K    2 


5C0 


TIIK    l'()I.Al{    WOULD. 


tliruiij^'li  the  Miiy;('ll;nis  into  the  Atluiitit;  was  thus  the  tiist 
circiiuiiiavi<jfator  of  Fuej^-ia.  In  l(!()i>,  Sir  John  Nurborouoh 
Laving  boon  sent  out  by  Kin<^  ("harles  II.  to  explore  tin- 
Ma^elhmie  re^-ions,  furnished  a  <^ood  [general  chart  of  tin- 
strait,  anil  many  phma  of  the  anchora<^e  within  it. 

More  than  sixty  years  now  ehipsed  before  any  ex])edHi<>ii 
of  historical  renown  made  its  appearance  in  the  strait.     TJio 
dan<^ers  and  hardships  which  had  assailed  the  previous  navi- 
}4'ators,  discouraf>'ed  their  successors,  who  all  preferred  the 
circuitous  way  round  Oape  Horn   to  the  shorter  Init,  as  it 
was  at  that  time  considered,  more  perilous  route  throno-li 
the  strait.     After  this  long  pause,  Byron  (December,  Kfil) 
and   Bougainville    (February,  1 765)    once    more    attempted 
the  Magellans.     The  dilticidties  encountered  by  them  were 
surpassed  by  those    of    Wallis  and   Carteret.     The  foi-iner 
spent  nearly  fmr  months  (from  Decendjer  17,  17G(j,  to  Aiuil 
11,  1707)  in  a  perpetual  conflict  with  stormy  Aveather  Avliili; 
slowly  creeping  through  the  strait ;  and  the  latter  reijuircd 
eighty-four  days  for  his  passage  from  Port  Famine  to  Caje 
Pillar.     No  wonder  that  the  next  circumnavigators,  Liitke, 
Krusenstern,  Kotzebue,  preferred  sailing  round  Cape  Hern, 
and  that  adventurous  seal  hunters  became  for  a  long  time 
the  sole  visitors  of  these  ill-famed  waters.     At  length  tli^-^ 
British  Government  came  to  a  resolution  worthy  of  Eiii^lamll 
and  resolved  to  have  the  Magellanic  regions  carefully  sup 
veyed,  and  to  conquer  them,  as  it  were,  anew  for  geo^aa' 
phical  science.     Under  the  command  of  Captain  Kin*,',  thi 
'  Adventure  '  and  the  '  Beagle  '  Avere  engaged  in  this  ardiu 
task  from  182()  to  18:]0 ;  but  such  were  the  dangers  they  li 
to  encounter,  that  Captain  Stokes,  the  second  in  comiiuiii 
after  contending  for  four  months  witli  the  storms  and  eurreiii 
Avhich  frequently  threatened  to  dash   his  vessel  against  t 
cliffs,    became   so  shattered    in  mind    and  body,   that  afti 
his  return  to  Port  Famine  he  committed  suicide  in  a  fit 
melancholy. 

From  18:51  to  1834,  Captain  Fitzroy  was  engaged  in  w 
pleting  the  survey  of  Patagonia  and  Tierra  del  Fue^n. ;; 
the  result  of  all  these  labours  was  a.  collection  of  charts  a 
plans  which  have  rendered  navigation  in  those  part,-^  a^^ 


I'ait. 


and 


MAfiKLl.ANS   STRAIT. 


AOl 


,'   I'lvst 
irt>u'j;U 
n-c  the 
of  \\\y- 

it.    Tl»' 
ms  luivi- 

jITCmI   till' 

wt,  us  ii 

jer,  I'tVt) 
attomptiMl 
:liom  Avevo 
lie  foniwr 
(),  to  Avnl'.^ 
atli»-v  Avliil'!  ^ 
er  roquivi'l 
iue  to  CiU^ 
,tovs,  IMW 
Cave  H"vn, 
-a  louiA-  1^»^9 
leivj;th  ilia 
of  En--V'^'-"V^ 
lavefully  s"i'.' 
for  «i;o«)trv;i' 
n  Kinu'.th< 
tliis  uril^uu 
ers  they  lit 
{ii  commune 
ami  eurr«'ii^ 
ao-ainst  tl 
y,   that  aft< 
de  in  -a  ^i^ 

,ao;o»l  ill  f" 

ll '  ruego,  I 

lof  clvartsui 

pavtft  a 


as  can  be  expected  in  tlu>  most  tenipe.stiiou.s  n'oinn  df  tlie 
'ilobe. 

While  formerly  the  passa^-e  round  Capo  Horn  was  univer- 
sally preferred,  the  more  accurate  knowledge  of  the  Strait  of 
Magellan,  for  which  navigation  is  indebted  to  the  labv*nrs  of 
Kiiiy  and  Fitzroy,  has  since  then  turned  tlie  scale  in  i'avitur 
(if  the  latter. 

For  a  trading-vessel,  with  only  the  ordinary  numbf.'r  of 
hands  on  board,  tin;  passau'e  through  the  strait  from  east  to 
west  is  indeed  generally  vx>ry  ditlicuit,  and  even  dangerous; 
but  in  the  opposite  direction,  the  almost  constant  westerly 
winds  render  it  commodious  and  easy,  particularly  during 
the  summer  months,  in  which  they  are  most  prevalent. 

For  small  vessels — clippers,  schooners,  cutters — the  passage 
ill  both  directions  is,  according  to  the  excellent  authority  of 
Captain  King,  much  to  be  preferred.  Such  vessels  have  far 
iiiiire  reason  for  fearing  the  heavy  seas  about  Cape  Horn; 
they  can  more  easily  cross  against  the  west  winds,  as  their 
iiiinia'uvres  are  generally  very  skilfid,  and  they  find  in  the 
Suuud  itself  a  great  number  of  anchoring  places,  which  are 
inaccessible  to  larger  vessels. 

For  steamers  the  advantage  is  entirely  on  the  side  of  the 
^trait,  and  they  consequently  now  invariably  prefer  this 
iniite.  Here  they  find  plenty  of  Avood,  Avhich  enables  them 
t'j  save  their  coals  ;  and  moreover,  from  Cape  Tamar  as 
:ir  as  the  Gulf  of  Penas,  an  easy  navigation  for  about  ;}(K» 
>'a  miles  through  the  channels  along  the  west  coast  of 
.luierlca. 

As  the  trade  of  the  Pacific  is  continually  increasing,  and 

t!io  strait  of  Magellan  more  frequented  from  year  to  year, 

Ki'  cannot  wonder  that  the  old  project  of  settling  a  colony  on 

its  shores  should  have  been  revived  in  our  days.     About  the 

]<:av  18  10  the  government  of  Chili  established  a  penal  colony 

itPunta  Arenas  and  Port  Famine,  which  miserably  failed  in 

usoquence  of  a  mutiny  ;  but  in  185-'},  about  150  German  emi- 

.raiits  were  settled  at  Puiita  Arenas,  and  when  the  '  Novara  ' 

viiited  the  strait  in  1858,  they  were  found  in  a  thriving  con- 

'Htion.     Should  the  project  of  stationing  steam-tugs  in  the 

i'rait,  and  of  erecting  lighthouses  at  Cape  Virgins  and  at 


C02 


THK    I'OLAU    \V0R1,I). 


the  entrance  of  Smyth  Channel,*  be  executed,  the  Mii<;(>Iliiiis 
wouM  become  one  of  tlie  liio-h-roads  of  comnieroe,  and  tlic 
dano'ors  whicli  proved  so  dreadful  to  the  navifjators  of  funiior 
days,  a  mere  tale  of  the  past. 

*  Tlio  '  Nii.ssau,'  tiiidcr  tlio  commaml  of  ('ii|it!iiu  Iiiclinnl  Jljiync,  is  nt  [iicmhI 
fii(ia{^<'(l  in  cfniipli'tiiif^  llic  survey  of  the  Siriiits  (>(  Mii;;i'llaii  ami  ot'  Snivili 
(JliaiUK'l.  Sh((  arrived  in  Deeoialjci-  186(5,  and  uill  iiio.sl  prolialijy  he  eniiijuvd 
tlu'oo  years  on  a  task  which  proves  I  ho  increasing  iniiioitancc  of  tiio  passagp. 


-^    (^ 


— ,> 


/>'^.- 


WnndCiinfT  Albatrops. 


I'ilfti'cnco 

of  I'ijisf 
.\i;M||ii__ 
i'li  mill's 
Tlieir  I'ln 

n.    Gre; 
t'liarac'tei'. 

[IMTAG 

'^    tinen 

Ifi   tota 

'fiisJied  h 

piiiiidg-ai 

«iffu-l(nul 
''f'l  mois< 

h^wof'tho 

JDortlnvnra, 
'^iiioli  pen- 


Groun  of  I'lxl.agi.Miicin.s. 


CHAITEU  XXXIX. 

PATAdOMA    AND    TlIK    I'ATAGOJS'IANS. 

IiitTii'tiico  of  Cliniiitc  bctwct'ii  lvi>t  luid  Wf>t  I'iiliigniiiii — Ivxtra'H'iliiiai'y  Ariilily 
of  Kast  Patagonia — Zoology — Tlu'  Guaiiaco — The  TucutiU'O  'I'lic  i'ataunniaii 
Agniit i — ^'ultlll•el5 — The  Turkfy-Eiizzanl — The  Ciirranelia — Tlie  Cliimaiigo  — 
Lianviu'si  O.-stricIi — Tlio  Patagoniaiis — J'^agguvuted  Accounts  of  their  Stiituiv — 
Tliiir  Phys^iognoniy  and  Divss — Koligions  Ideas— Superstitions — A'^tronnmical 
Knuwlcdge — Divis^ion  into  Tribes — Tiic  Tent  or  Tolilo  -Trading  K(jnt«s — 
Till'  Great  Caciqiu — Introduction  of  the  Ifort-e — Industry — Amusements — 
Character, 


IjATAGONIA,  the  soiitliern  oxtromity  of  the  American  coii- 
•    tinent,  is  divided  by  the  ridye  of  the  Andes  into  two  parts 
f  a  totally  different  character.     Its    wesicrn  coast-lands, 
l^iislied  by  the  cold  Antarctic  current  and   exposed  to  iho 
iininid  g-ales  of  a  restless  ocean,  are  almost  constantly  obscured 
vitlu'louds  and  drenched  with  rain.    Dense  forests,  dri[)piug' 
hitli  moisture,  clothe  the  steep  hill  sides  ;  and  froiuthe  cold- 
Istssuf  the  summer,  the  snow-line  is  so  low,  that  for  050  miles 
soi'thwards  of  Tierra  del  Fueo-o,  almost  every  arm  of  the  sea 
pliicli  penetrates  to  the  intericn'  higher  chain  is  terminated 
huL;'e  g'laeicrs  descending  to  the  water's  edge. 


HO-i 


Tin:  roi.AU  \V(un,i). 


East  I'liiiiironiii,  <»ii  the  conlniry,  a  vaHi  }»laiii  risini^'  in 
HiK'ccssivc  terraces  t'nMii  the  Atlaiilie  to  tlie  toot  o|'  llir  Cm-- 
(lillera,  is  one  of  the  most  arid  reyinns  of  the  ^Holie.  Tlie 
oxtreino  ilrynoss  of  the  [trevailiiiy-  westerly  wiinls,  which 
have  heeu  t(»tally  <k'[»rived  of  their  hiuiiidity  hefore  cit.^inM' 
the  AikU'S,  and  the  well  roiiiidi'd  shiii«;'Ies  \vhi(  h  c'oiii|K».sf  Hi,. 
soil,  liavo  entailed  the  curse  of  sterility  (»ii  tin;  land.  M,.- 
notonous  warm  tints  of  brown,  yellow,  or  lij^ht  red,  evfiv- 
■whero  fatio-ue  the  eye,  wliich  vainly  secdcs  for  rest  in  tlir 
dark  blue  sky,  and  lliids  refreshin«^-  yreen  only  on  some  ii\rr 
banks. 

Many  broad  flat  valostranssoft  the  plains,  and  in  tliesc  tin* 
vegetation  is  somewhat  better.     The  streams  of  former  u^vs 
have  no  doubt  hollowed  them  out,  for  the  rivers  of  the  iircseiit 
day  are  utterly  inade<|uate  to  the  task.     On  account  of  tlic 
dryness   of  the  atmos[diere,   the   traveller    may  journey  for 
days  in  these  Pata^'(»nian  plains  without  fludin;:;-  a  (lr(i|i  nf 
water.     Sprin<j^8  arc  rare,  and  even  when  found  are  ^•eiienilK 
bi'ackish  and  unre fresh iui,'.    While  the  'Beaj^-le'  was  anclier- 
ing  in  the  spacious  harbour  of  Port  St.  Julian,  a  i)ar1y  our 
day  accompanied  Captain  Fitzroy  on  a  long  walk  rouiid  the 
head  of  the  harbour.  They  were  eleven  hours  without  tiistiii;,' 
any  water,    and  some  of  the  party  were  quite  exlimistcd. 
From  the  summit  of  a  hill,  to  which  the  a.])p.  o})riate  name 
of  '  Thirsty  Hill '  was  g'iven,  a  fine  lake  was  spied,  and  two  of ; 
the  party  proceeded  -with  concerted  sig-nals  to  show  wlictlur  I- 
it  was  fresh  water.     The  disappointment  may  be  iniii^iiit'd  l| 
when  the  supposed  lake  was  found  to  be  a  snow-white  exi»iuisi' 
of  salt,  crystallised  in  great  cubes. 

The  extreme  dryness  of  the  air,  which  imparts  so  sterile  ;i 
character  to  the  country,  favours  the  formation  of  ouiiini 
deposits  ou  the  naked  islands  along-  the  coast,  Avhieli  im! 
frequented  by  sea-birds.  Protracted  droug-hts  are  es.seiiti;il 
to  the  accumulation  of  this  manure,  for  repeated  f--lK)A\\:'rs  ef 
rain  would  wash  it  into  the  sea,  and  for  this  reason  no  eii:i in) 
deposits  are  found  on  the  populous  bird-mountaijis  of  t]ie| 
north.  A  similar  dryness  of  the  atmosphere  favours  the; 
deposit  at  Ichaboe  on  the  African  coast,  at  the  Kooria  Xeeiii 
Islands  in  the  Indian  Ocean,  and  at  the  Chincha  Islands  in 


Tlie  A 
iillied  t( 
miieii  n 
from  ,3( 
"f  tlie 

illfolc'l-;, 

n'atao 
•'•indeei 
file  Core 
n(»rji,  bi 
^"Utl,  Pii 
:!iiiii  tJie 
I"'.sed  to 
'^^■nuna,' 
^^'^'  yuan 
''^elc  and 


l'AT.\(i(>N'IAV    FAl'N'A. 


SOS 


>  C.r- 
Tlu- 

)S('  ill*' 
.  ^lo- 
,  cVi'VV- 

ii\   till' 
(\('  vi\i'r 

,1  of  t\io 

^nivly  oil.'  ^ 
r(tun*\  til'" 
ul  tiistinii;  : 

\,iti'  niniu' 
a  nil  two  < if ;. 

io  sterile  a 

|^vluc•ll  uvo^" 
i-c  essential; 

In  no  «i;uaiio| 
lins  of  tlie] 
lavouvs  tiief 

oria  ^^'"i"^3 
Islantls  oil 


the  PoniviiiM  (Miast  ;  aiid  lliis  kind  of' climate  iipiMsirs  also  to 
lie  iKii'ticnliii'ly  Ji^Tt'Oiil)!*'  to  the  sea-birds. 

('onMideriiiy  tlie  oxceHsive  aridity  of  Piifii^'oula,  it  seeniH 
Kurjirislii^-  that  the  eomitry  sliould  be  traversed  tVom  west 
te  east  by  siicb  cojisideraide  rivers  as  tlie  I'io  Nej^ro,  the 
tlalle<;-<»s,  and  the  Santa  Cruz;  but  all  these  have  their  sources 
ill  tlie  Andes,  and  are  led  by  mountain  torrents,  whirh  no 
(l(Mibt  derive  their  waters  from  the  atmospherical  preeipi- 
t;iti(»ns  (»f  the  I'acilic. 

The  z(»olon-y  (d'  I'ataLTonia  is  as  limited  as  its  tlt»ra,  and 
<^rcatlj  resembles  in  its  character  tliat  (d'the  mountain  rej^'ions 
(if  Chili,  or  of  the  Puna  or  lii^ih  tableland  of  the  tropical 
Andes  of  Peru  and  JJolivia,  the  height  of  which  varies  from 
lo.ooo  to  1  l,<MM>  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

In  all  these  countries,  situated  in  such  ditVerent  latitudes, 
tlic  explorer  is  astonished  to  find  not  only  the  same  p'uera, 
hut  even  animals  of  the  same  species.  The  forest -l(tvin<;'  race 
iif  monlcey^s  is  nowhere  to  be  found  in  treeless  Pataji'onia. 
None  of  the  rpiadrumana  ventures  farther  south  than  2*.)'' lat., 
but  on  the  borders  of  the  liio  Nej^'ro,  the  northern  boundary 
nf  Patajj;-onia,  some  small  bats  are  seen  fi uttering-  about  in  the 
twiliij'ht. 

The  dark  brown  yellow-lieadi'd  Odltctis  viffnta,  an  animal 
allied  to  the  Civets  and  Clenets,  is  likewise  found  there,  but 
much  more  frequently  its  relation  the  Zorilla,  -which  rang-es 
from  'Hf  lat.  to  the  Strait  of  Ma<,'ellan,  and  like  the  skunk 
I'f  the  north,  has  the  power  of  discharg'inj^  a  lluid  of  an 
int(»lerably  fetid  odour. 

The  <^'uanaco  is  the  characteristic  quadruped  of  the  plains 
if  Patag-onia,  wdiere  it  is  no  less  nseful  to  man  than  the  wild 
niudeer  to  the  savaf^e  hunters  of  the  north.  It  ranges  from 
tln'  CV»rdillera  of  Peru  as  far  south  as  the  islands  near  C/ai)e 
Horn,  but  it  appears  to  be  more  frequent  on  the  plains  of 
>!i>uth  Patagonia  than  anyAvhero  else.  It  is  of  g-reater  size 
'luiu  the  llama,  and  resembles  it  so  much  that  it  was  suj)- 
jiosed  to  be  the  wild  variety,  until  Tschudi,  in  his  '  Fauna 
PtTuana/  pointed  out  the  specific  dift'erence  between  both. 
The  guanaco  is  a  more  elegant  animal,  with  a  long,  slender 
I  neck  and  fine  legs  ;  its  tieece  is  shorter  and  less  fine  ;  its 


50G 


THI-:    I'OI.AIJ    U'UUI.L). 


colour  is  brown,  the  under  parts  being"  whitish,  ft  f>;eneriillv 
lives  in  small  herds  of  from  half  a  dozen  to  thirty  in  each ; 
but  on  the  banks  of  the  Santa  Cru/,  Mr.  Darwin  saw  one 
herd  which  contained  at  least  iive  liundred.  Thuiij^h  ex- 
tremely shy  and  wary,  it  is  no  match  for  the  cunning'  of 
the  sava<^-e ;  and,  before  the  horse  was  introduced  into  Pata- 
gonia, man  most  probably  could  not  have  existed  in  those 
arid  plains  without  the  guanaco.  It  easily  takes  to  the 
water,  and  this  accounts  for  its  presence  on  the  eastern 
islands  of  Fuegia,  where  it  has  been  followed  by  the  puma. 
or  American  lion,  who  likewise  pursues  it  on  the  plateaus  of 
the  Cordillera,  12,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  Brazilian  fox  {Cants  Azar(v)  is  also  met  Avitli  as  far  as 
the  strait.  It  is  somewhat  smaller  than  our  fox,  but  inoic 
robustly  built.  In  Patagonia  it  preys  chiefly  upon  the  snuill 
rodents,  with  which  the  land,  in  si)ite  of  its  sterility,  is 
perhaps  more  richly  stock' 'd  than  any  other  country  in  the 
world.  Among  these  the  .  acutuco  {Ctenomys  maijdbiuicn), 
which  may  briefly  be  described  as  a  gnawer  with  the  liabits 
of  a  mole,  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable.  It  abounds  m-ar 
the  strait,  where  the  sandy  plain  is  one  vast  burrow  of  these 
creatures.  This  curious  animal  makes,  when  beneath  the 
ground,  a  very  peculiar  noise,  consisting  of  a  short  nasal 
grunt,  monotonously  repeated  about  four  times  in  quick  suc- 
cession, the  name  tucutuco  being  given  in  imitation  of  llic 
soimd.  Where  the  animal  is  abundant,  it  may  be  heard 
at  all  times  of  the  day,  and  sometimes  directly  beneath  one's 
feet.  The  tucutuco  is  nocturnal  in  its  habits  ;  its  food  con- 
sists chiefly  of  roots,  the  search  after  which  seems  to  be  the 
cause  of  its  burrowing.  r 

Among  the  indigenous  quadrupeds  of  Patagonia,  w<'  fmd. 
moreover,  a  species  of  agouti  {Busy procta  pat n<joni<'a) ,  whi-Ii  i^ 
in  some  measure  represents  our  hare,  but  is  about  twice  the 
'A'le^  and  has  only  three  toes  on  its  hind  feet ;  the  elei^'unt  j 
long-eared  mara  [DoUrhotis  patatjonieus),  which,  unlike  luo-^t 
burrowing  aninuils,  wanders,  commonl3'two  or  three  togetlii  r. 
for  miles  from  its  home:  the  IJuIelji/tis  Azanr,  a  species  ct' 
opossum  ;  and  the  pichy  (DdKypns  muiutus),  a  small  arniadi!!". 
which  extends  as  far  south  as  50^  lat. 

It  would  be  vain  to  seek  amouij  the  Patau'onian  birds  !■  i' 


It  g-eiierally 
dy  in  eaoh ; 
,'in  Siiw  one 
Tlioii;^h  c.x- 

cimniii<j;"  (if 
1  into  Piitu- 
;ed  in  those 
alecs  to  the 
the  eastern 
ly  the  puma. 
?  phiteaus  of 

sea. 

ith  as  tar  as 
)x,  but  more 
on  the  small 

sterility,  is 
untry  in  the 
niagelldiiira), 
h  the  habits 
ibonnds  near 
I'ow  ot"  these 

beneath  the 

short  nasal 
in  quick  suo- 
;ation  of  the 
ay  be  heard 
)eneath  one's 
its  food  eon- 
iias  to  he  the 


onut  we 


find. 
onica),  whi'-!i 
out  twice  tilt' 
,  the  ele^'ai'.t 
,  unlike  iiie-t 
iree  toj^'etlni'. 
a  species  <<( 
all  arniadiil". 


ian  birds 


<1'0  splendid  pluniaov.  of  fh.,  i       •     ,  '"'^^ 

r'''"'«.  which  are  their  h^e  T' '',*^^"''  "^  *^^«  "^^I^'-l 
---•  regions  of  An.erica  li^if  ft^f  '"'^  f  i'^"^^'  «^  «- 
''  f;^  ^'S-ouia.  When  a  lior.e  ch,"  ?"^^"'  '^''  ''^^^  ^vastes 
-•  ^^^n-st,  the  Turkey-bn..   'l  nn  ^'""''^'  ^^'""'  ^'^^''^"^ 

;^--  its  carcase,  a,;ll  ^nU^l^-'r"^  '^^"'^  *«  ^^^.t 
"''-^)    -'ul   the   chin^an!."  ^./!""'^  ^^^^^^--  ^'-/. 
'7-   clean.     Thono,,  thj^^^/'j  ^^^^^ /'^^--V^    pick    its 
I'l'^ce  of  our  carrion-cro^v^  n         '       "'^  ^^'^^"  «"PPlj  the 
M  in  common,  they  ^1  k t'      ^^^'"'^  ""^^  ^''^^'^^"«'  8-0"eralIv 
^^1-  the  carr;nchi  tc^XTr,"^  ^^  tWendi/iboS 
-,  or  on  the  ground,  Z^n^^S  ''^  ''""''''  ^^' '^ 
J^^"^    imo  flying,  backwards  and T^     ?   '"  '""^^'^"^^^  for  a, 
-uicrcle,  t^^in.  each  ti    ^  ^^  ^t'  ^^^^  ^"^^^  ^«-"'  "^  ^^ 
stnke  Its  larger  relative,  wM;h  ^    ""i:    ^  ''  ''^  ^"^-'  ^o 
bobbing  Its  head.     The  carr.n7.l         ,     ^^^  "^^i^^'  ^''^'cq>t  by 
^Iryand  open  countries  ^k     n     ''-"'"^'^  ^^  ^-""-"  in  the 
«-  P-ifie,  is  also  fbi.  d  "hi;""!?  "^  ^^^  -•"!  «i--s   "f 
S;onia  and  Tierra  del  Pu  :lo     ^  ""/^^^  ^^^^^^^s  of  West  Pata- 
^I'^^n  the  carranclia.    Of  -aUlJ      ':^^""''"^S-o  is  much  smaller 
;^-  last  which  leaves  tl:^^:;::;^-  f^'^'  ^t  is  general); 
requently  be  seen  within  the  Hb    0/    1'"'  '^"""^l^and  ma^ 
bolund  a  grating,     u  i,  fi;;:f^j^,^  ^^--'  '^k^  a  prisoned 
-J;;>;o  It  lives  on  small  fishes  ^      ""'^  ""  '^^^'  ■^^^■'^"^oast, 

J^he  condor  mav  lil 

'V^"'«-     In  the  ti t  "s  tiX™',  '""•'"-'•'  "'•  'J''".™ 

»  "■''  tl.e  crowned  fal™,,   ^^,.:^  ''"'"'  '""''  "f  P.vy,  to 
'"■oared  b„z„,rd  (»»/.„  (,,vi      .t  I'"'":""""'   "'«  tLree- 
„""").  and  several  other.  „  ,  ,  '     '     .T","  '""'"  ''^"''«'"« 
*«t  of  then,  are  likewise  ,2^^^    *  "  '  ""■  ■'"  '"■""■T- 
;"">■;;■.••  witi,  the  ae,e„eele..i  tril  .    i'^'fV'":'  ""''"^'i"""-  ^" 


irii 


ly  banks  of  the  st 


'niciis 


•)\e 


the   R 


lo  N 


eyr 


i''Ut,  and  retires  to 


aves  in  winter  tl 


'larhler 


{Orph 


■0,  where  it  iueets  i\ 


tlie  2nilder  sk 


le 


"-"•'''i>'"'",'/"/^/'v^s-),  the 


n 


it^  tuneful    />ati. 
inible  troglod^.t^  (/ 


les 


igonian 


<tl(j 


508 


THE    rOLAU    WORLD. 


dytes    paU'ida),    and    the    iiicoiistaut    fly-en tclior    {Mnxcinii,, 
liarvuhiii). 

A  peculiar  species  of  ostrich,  the  nandii  {Rhea  Darwin!) 
roams  over  the  plains  of  southern  Pata<i;'onia,  as  far  as  tlio 
Strait  of  Mag'ellan.  It  is  smaller  than  the  South  American 
ostrich  [Illiea  amcricana),  ^vhich  inhabits  the  country  of  La 
Plata,  as  far  as  a  little  south  of  the  Rio  Neg-ro;  but  it  is 
more  beautiful,  as  its  white  feathers  are  tipped  with  black  at 
the  extremity,  and  its  black  ones  in  like  manner  terminate 
in  white. 

In  the  same  hig-li  hititude  one  is  surprised  to  meet  with  a 
member  of  the  parrot  tribe,  Pxiittucus  patcuioutcuK,  fcediijn- 
on  the  seeds  of  the  winter's  bark,  and  to  see  hummin<jf-bir(l.s 
{Trocldlus  forficatus)  llittin<jf  about  during  the  snow-storms  in 
the  forests  of  Tierra  del  Fuego. 

The  plains  of  Patagonia  are  inhabited  by  a  race  of  Indians 
supposed  to  be  gigantic,  but  the  descriptions  of  modern 
travellers  have  dispelled  the  idea.  Thus  Pigafetti,  the  com- 
panion of  Magellan,  relates  that  the  Europeans  only  reach  t(» 
the  waist  of  the  Patagonians  ;  Simeon  de  Weert  tells  us  that 
they  are  from  10  to  11  feet  high ;  Byron,  who  visited  them 
in  the  last  century,  reduces  them  to  7  feet,  and  Captain 
King  finally,  who  accurately  measured  them,  found  tho 
medium  lieight  of  tlie  males  about  five  feet  eleven  inches. 
As  the  Patagonians  have  most  likely  not  degenerated  within 
the  last  few  centuries,  we  may  infer  from  these  Aarious 
accounts,  that  the  travellers  of  the  present  day  are  less  pronr 
to  exaggeration  than  those  of  more  ancient  times.  So  nnieh 
is  certain,  that  the  Patagonians  are  a  fine  athletic  race  of  | 
men,  with  remarkably  broad  shoulders  and  thick  nmsenlar 
IL^s.  The  head  is  long,  broad,  and  flat,  and  the  forelieaJ 
l^P^  with  the  hair  growing  within  an  inch  of  the  eyebrnws. 
which  are  bare;  the  eyes  are  often  placed  obliquely,  and  havf 
but  little  expression  ;  the  forehead  and  the  large  lips  aiv  [im- 
minent, so  that  if  a  perpendicular  line  were  drawn  between  IJ 
the  two,  the  thick  flat  nose  would  hardl}-  rcaeh  it,  and  hut 
seldom  project  beyond  it.  In  spite  of  these  coarse  features  tin' 
physiognomy  of  the  young  girls  is  by  no  means  unpleasant 
as  it  has  an  amiable,  lively  expression.  All  of  them  liavoj 
small  hands  and  feet,  and  D*(Jrbigny  says  that  they  IkivcJ 


(ho 

have 

l>y  tl 

old  n 

Th 

oftlu 

IJiOst 

at  var 

hinnai 

TJie 

eight  i 

the  fas 

liangiii 

iico  ski 

^\eathe] 

\vith  tlj 

iiiented 

iiorse-le 

^"  nvu  ke 

ill  u.se. 

^'Heathe 

it  witli  i 

face   is 

i'atagoni 

*'<'   carri( 

'<'iumon 

"i'  eradio 

''•''jiientJ' 

i'1'ieer.s. 

Tlie  reJ 
fJi"se  of  tl 
'livine  Ac 
"f  good  a: 
"limber  of 
"'Jii(-hcan 
i'ilvc  tlie  si 
I'l'stors  W(. 
Pi-edict  thi 
'Mh',  but 
"■^'iiiay  jinl 


PATAGONIAX    FASHIONS. 


A09 


the  finest  sluqx's  of  all  the  savages  lie  saw.  Tlioug'li  they 
have  a  Avide  mouth  ami  thick  li])s,  this  fault  is  redeemed 
l»_v  their  beautiful  white  teeth,  which  never  fall  out  even  in 
old  age. 

The  colour  of  the  Patagonians  is  much  darker  than  that 
of  the  Pann)as  Indians,  and  others  further  to  the  north,  and 
most  closely  resembles  that  of  the  mulatto ;  a  fact  totally 
at  variance  with  the  common  belief  that  the  darkness  of  the 
human  skin  increases  on  approaching  the  equator. 

The  chief  garment  is  the  manuhe,  a  wide,  square  mantle — 
eight  feet  long  and  nearly  as  broad — which  they  wear  after 
the  fashion  of  the  ancient  Greeks  and  Romans,  with  one  end 
hanging  down  to  the  earth.     Tr  generally  consists  of  guan- 
aco  skins  neatly  sewn  together  with  ostrich  sinews.     In  cold 
weather  the  manulK"',  which  serves  also  as  a  blaidcet,  is  worn 
with  the  hair  inside ;    the  even   surface    is  therefore   orna- 
mented Avith  red  drawings.     Sometimes  they  wear  boots  of 
horse -leather,  like  the  Gauchos,  from  Avhom  they  have  learnt 
tu  make  rii-  ni ;  formerly  sandals  of  guanaco-skin  were  alone 
hi  use.      iheir  long  black  hair  is   tied  behind   with  a  thong 
of  leather,  or  a  piece  of  ribbon  ;  the  women  plait  and  adorn 
it  with  a  number  of  ornaments  of  glass  and   copper.     The 
fiice    is    generally    painted    red,    white,    and    black,    and    a 
Patagonian  is  never  seen  without  the  little  pouch  in  which 
he   carries  the    necessary  colours.     A   renuirkable    custom, 
tummoai  to  all  the  Indian  tribes  as  far  as  Bolivia,  is  that 
of  eradicating   the  hairs  of  the  beard,  and  tin.'  men  nuiy 
frecpiently    be    seen    plucking    them    out   with  a    pair   of 
pincers. 

The  religious  ideas  of  the  Patagonians  greatly  resend^le 
those  of  their  neighbours  the  Aucas  and  the  Puelches.  Th<' 
divuie  Achekenat  Kanet  is  reverenced  as  the  genius  Ppli 
<A  good  and  evil ;  but  beside  this  chief  deity  they  have  a 
nuiul)er  of  inferior  spirits,  generally  of  a  malignant  nature, 
uh'k-h  can  be  held  in  check  only  by  the  arts  of  their  nuigicians. 
Like  the  shamans,  or  medicine-men  of  the  north,  these  im- 
postors work  themselves  into  an  ecstatic  state,  in  which  they 
prtMlict  things  to  come,  or  announce  the  will  of  the  luiseen 
u'uls ;  but  their  trade  does  not  seen;  to  l)e  very  lucrative  if 
wciuav  pulu'c  frnni  th^:' bad  coudiLinn  of  their  uiaiit  K',-.     They 


510 


Tin-:  roLAii  world. 


also  act  as  pi) ysicians,  for  all  diseases  are  invariably  ascribitl 
to  the  ajj^ency  of  evil  spirits. 

The  Patagonians  are  quite  as  superstitious  as  the  Indians 
of  the  liif^h  northern  latitudes.  They  seldom  cut  their  lijiir, 
but  when  they  do,  they  cast  it  into  the  river,  or  carefully 
burn  it,  so  that  it  may  not  fall  into  the  hands  of  some  nuiiii,''- 
nant  inayician  who  might  use  it  to  the  hurt  of  its  quondani 
owner.  When,  on  journeyino'  along  a  river,  they  see  some 
trunks  of  trees  descending  with  the  current,  they  take  them  for 
evil  si)irits,  and  address  them  with  a  loud  voice.  If  by  chance 
the  trees  are  swept  by  less  rapidly,  or  are  driven  round  in  a 
whirlpool,  they  believe  that  this  takes  place  for  the  purpose 
of  hearing  them.  They  then  make  them  liberal  promises, 
which  they  faithfully  keep.  They  cast  their  weapons,  their 
ornaments,  sometimes  even  their  horses  with  bound  feet,  into 
the  Avater,  fully  persuaded  that  ^.y  this  sacrifice  they  have 
averted  the  misfortunes  that  otherwise  would  have  befalli-n 
them.  Like  many  other  savage  nations,  they  believe  in  a 
future  paradise,  where  they  expect  to  find  again  all  that  they 
prized  on  earth.  For  this  reason  they  immolate  t)vor  the 
graves  of  their  friends  all  the  animals  that  belonged  to  them, 
and  inter  with  them  all  they  possessed. 

The  astronomical  laiowledge  of  the  Patagonians  is  sur- 
2)rising  in  a  people  ranking  so  low  in  the  scale  of  civilisutioii. 
(.Continually  migrating  over  their  arid  land,  they  soon  felt  the 
necessity  of  directing  their  movements  during  the  Jay  by 
the  position  of  the  sun,  during  the  night  by  the  stars ;  and 
thus  they  gradually  learnt  to  observe  the  march  of  the  (mhi- 
stellations,  and  to  note  the  times  of  their  appearance  ami 
disappearance,  giving  them  names,  so  as  to  be  able  tn 
communicate  their  observations  to  each  other.  Their  li\ely 
fancy  traces  in  the  stany  Mrmament  tlie  picture  of  th-' 
Indian's  hunting  expe^lition.  The  milky  way  is  the  path  ou 
which  he  follows  the  ostrich  ;  the  '  Three  Kings  '  are  thebolas 
or  balls  with  which  he  strikes  the  bird  whose  feet  form  the 
Southern  Cross;  and  the  Magellanic  clouds  are  heap.'-  of  1 
its  feathers  that  have  been  collected  by  its  pursuer. 

When  the  Patagonians  speak  of  the  direction  tlu-y  int<Miil 
to  follow,  from  north  to  soutli  or  from  east  to  west,  tluv 
al\vav^^  in<lirii1e    the  constellations;  so  that    in   these  boutli 


rATAGOXlAX    TRIBIOS. 


:.ii 


idiiius 
Lair, 
•e  fully 
uuli;^- 
juduui 
i  some 
lein  foi' 
eliinuM! 
nd  ill  a 
^iii'YJOs^ 
oiniH'-'!'' 
IS,  tbeiv 
■et,  into 
ey  have 
iDefalli'ii 
.>ve  in  "'i 
hat  tliey 
ovov  the 
to  tlieiii, 

is  sui'- 
|ilis;iti«"i. 
I  felt  thi' 
|.   Jay  l->y 
lirs;  iind 
the  ('"H- 
uec  and 
al)k'   tn 
I'ir  lively 
of    ill-' 
patli  oil 
diol>olii> 
oriii  tlif 


£-A 


loav? 


of 


[v  iuti'tiu 
.'St.  th' ; 


American  plains,  ;is  in  those  of  Chaldea,  ii  similar  necessity 
has  led  man  to  lay  the  first  foundations  of  astronomical 
knowledge. 

The  Patagonians   are    divided    into    a  number   of    small 
migratory  tribes,  each  consisting  of,  at  the  utmost,  thirty  or 
forty  families.      As  they  live  exclusively  by  the  chase,  it  is 
evident  that  a  few  days  would  suffice  to  destroy  or  to  drive 
away  the  game  of  a  great  extent  of  territory  were  the}'  to 
assemble  in  larger  numbers.     Not  to  perish  of  want,  they  are 
thus  compelled  to  wander  from  place  to  place  in  small  com- 
panies, and  to  carry  along  with  them  their  leathern  toldos 
or  tents.     The  toldo  reposes  on  a  frame  of  poles  stuck  into 
the  earth,  and  is  scarcely  higher  than  six  feet  in  its  centre,  so 
that  one  can  hardly  imagine  how  a  family  of  tall  Patagonians 
can  live  in  so  small  a  space.     The  door  is  invariably  to  the 
east,  so  that  earl    'n  the  morning  the  chief  of  the  family  may 
sprinkle  before  it       few  drops  of  water  as  an  offering  to  the 
rising  sun,  for  were  this  sacritice  to  be  neglected,  the  evil 
spirits  would  infallibly  wreak  their  vengeance  upon  the   in- 
mates of  the  tent.     Horse-bides,  or  guanaco  skins  coarsely 
sewn  tog'^^her,  cover  the  frame,  and  afford  but  a  scanty  pro- 
tection against  the  rain  and  the  much  more  frequent  wind. 
At  the  top,  as  in  the  Laplander's  hut,  an  opening  is  left  to 
let  out  the  smoke.     The  hearth  is  in  the  middle,  and  close 
by  lie  some  earthen  vases,  and  large  volute  shells  which  serve 
as  drinking  horns.     The  inmates  lie  on  skins,  or  sit  in  a 
I'orlier  cross-legged,  after  the  Oriental  fashion.    The  excessive 
iiltli  of  these  wretched  tenements  makes  their  jioverty  appear 
still  more  squalid  than  it  really  is.     Thirty  or  forty  toldos 
form  a  migratory  village  or  tolderia.     Though  the  dreadful 
-mall-pox  epidemic  from  1801>  to  1812  destroyod  whole  tribes 
■  f  Patagonians,  their  present  number  may  still  be  estimated 
It  from  eight  to  ten  thousand  ;  a  small  one  when  compared 
'vith  the  size  of  the  country,  yet  large  enough  when  we  con- 
■'Itr  the  sterile  nature  of  its  soil  and    the    vast  space    of 
i'  self  neecled  to  feed  a  sufficient  number  of  guanacos   and 
a-ses   for  ilie   wants  of  even  a   scanty  populatiuii.     Each 
'lilriia  a])pears   to  have  its  territory  liu'ited  by  the  hunt- 
U-^rounds    of    it^    neiglilxnirs,   Itiit    e<iiiiniorcial    transac- 
ii>    tahe    place   I'etweeii   the    \ari'»ii.>    1imIh>,   and   <Keasion 


5V2 


THI-:    POLAR   WORLD. 


loiii^-cr  jourueyH.  One  of  the  chief  trading  rontes  runs 
iilong  the  eustern  foot  of  tlie  Andes,  from  the  Strait  of 
Ma^-ellan  to  the  Rio  Neij^ro,  as  water  is  here  everywhere 
foniid;  another,  leading-  parallel  with  the  coast  from  tin- 
Rio  Negro  to  Port  St.  Julian  and  Port  Desire,  is  only 
fre<|nented  in  the  rainy  season,  and  even  then  there  are  wide 
spaces  without  any  sweet  water,  and  where  it  is  necessary  to 
travel  night  and  day  so  as  to  avoid  the  danger  of  dying  of 
thirst. 

Every  year  the  various  Patagoniaii  tribes  wander  to  the 
sources  of  the  Rio  Negro,  where  they  provide  themselves  with 
Arnucaria  seeds,  which  serve  them  as  food,  or  Vvith  ajiples, 
wdiich  have  multiplied  on  the  eastern  spurs  of  the  Andes  in 
the  same  astonishing  manner  as  the  peach  trees  near  the 
months  of  the  La  Plata.  Tlie  apple  tree  was  introduced  by 
the  first  Spaniards  who  inhabited  the  Chilian  Andes  soon 
after  the  conquest ;  and  when  later  the  intniders  were  expelk;d 
by  the  victorious  Arancanians,  the  imtives  found  their  country 
enriched  by  this  valuable  acquisition. 

One  of  the  chief  bartering  rendezvous  is  the  island  Cholo- 
chel,  which  is  formed  by  two  arms  of  the  Rio  Negro,  alxmt 
eighty  leagues  from  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Here  the 
Patagoniaii  exchanges  his  guanaco  skins  for  the  articles 
which  the  Puelches,  his  northern  neighbours,  either  fabricate 
Ihemselves  or  procure  in  a  more  easy  manner  by  stealiii<( 
them  from  the  white  settlers  in  their  neighbourhood.  This 
bartering  tr;'do  is  very  ancient,  and  has  always  existed  ex- 
cepting ill  times  of  war.  In  this  manner  the  Patagoiiians 
were  provided  with  horses,  soon  after  the  introdnetioii  of 
this  valuable  animal  into  the  New  World;  and  thus  also 
articles  of  Spanish  manufacture  soon  found  tlieir  wa\-  as  far 
as  the  Strait  of  Magellan. 

At  present  there  seems  to  be  pence  among  all  the  Pata- 
goniaii tribes,  which  consider  themselves  as  bri)thers,  thoiich 
freciuently  separated  several  hundred  leagues  from  each 
other. 

Their  system  of  government  is  very  simple.  Th-'  Avlielr 
nation  has  a  chief  or  great  cacique,  whom  they  call  carasken. 
and  whose  authority  is  very  limited.  In  war,  he  presides  in 
the  assembly  of  the  minor  ehieft>.  aiul  has  tho  supreme  roiu- 


PATAU ( ).\  I A  \    CUSTU M  HS . 


r>\ii 


vvuis 
x\i  of 
where 
HI   the 
i    only 
0  wide 
sary  to 
yiiig  of 

to  the 
ves  with 

Viules  in 
iieiiv  til'' 
lueed  ity 
des  soon 
}  expelled 
Li-  country 

nd  Ch.de- 
To,  id>ont 
Here   tli<' 

virtieles    :,■ 
fai>ric'ate     ; 
^.  stealin'^' 

lod.    Tiiis  ;: 

xisted  ex- 
tuu'oniaiis 
\iu-tion  "f 
tluis  :ds" 
way  11!^  t''^' 

the  Pata- 
Vs.  tlionL'lv 

ciira?iveii. 

[resides  111 

L-rnie  roui- 


maiul  in  battle.  In  peaee,  liis  swjiy  is  confined  to  his  own 
tribe,  lie  is  as  poor  iis  his  snbjeets,  and  far  from  enjoy in<^ 
a  copions  civil  list,  is  obli^vd  to  hnnt  i'w  his  snbsistenee  lik*^ 
every  other  Patiiy-onian  ;  the  only  advantii^e  ho  owes  to  his 
exalted  station  being-  a  somewhat  lar^-er  share  of  th<»  pro- 
duets  of  the  chase  ;  and  this  he  is  obli^-ed  to  distribute  amon<^ 
the  more  needy  of  his  followers,  to  maintain  his  influence. 
The  dignity  of  carasken  is  not  always  hereditary.  To  suc- 
ceed his  father,  the  son  must  first  prove  by  his  eloquence, 
his  courage,  and  his  liberalitv,  that  he  is  worthy  to  succeed 
him  ;  and  if  he  is  found  Avaiiting,  the  Indian  most  distin- 
guished by  his  moral  and  intellectual  (pialities  is  elected  in 
his  place. 

The  Patagonians  are  yery-  awkward  fishermen ;  they 
merely  catch  what  chance  throws  into  their  hands,  and  arc 
unacquainted  with  nets,  or  any  other  piscatorial  artifice.  In 
this  resjiect  they  are  totally  different  from  the  Fuegians,  who 
iltvive  their  chi<'f  subsistence  from  the  sea.  They  have  ever 
lit.'cu  a  nation  of  hunters,  and  before  the  introduction  of  the 
horse,  they  pursued  their  game  on  foot,  using  their  bolas 
with  great  dexterity  for  the  destruction  of  the  Lt'uauiico  and 
ihe  ostrich.  Their  dogs  afforded  them  a  yaluable  assistance, 
;iud  since  they  haye  become  accoiu] dished  horsemen,  their  fh'et 
coursers  eiuil)le  them  to  oyertake  with  ease  all  the  animals 
of  the  wilderness.  In  times  of  scarcity  they  dig  for  a  small 
•oot.  Avhieh  is  either  eaten  fresh  or  preserved  dry.  Horse 
ii  sli  is  their  favourite  food. 
The  Patagonian  toldos  and  their  weapons  are  yery  rudely 
ladc,  but  their  skin  mantles  are  not  nntastefully  oriuimented 
ith  rectilinear  figures.  In  their  war  dress  they  haye  a  yery 
h'tuis  appearance,  and  it  would  be  difficult  to  imagine  a 
ji'uv  <liab(dical  figure  than  that  of  a  tall  Patagonian  ready 
I'v  a  tight,  his  broad  face  painted  scarlet,  with  black  or  blue 
<uiiM's  under  the  eyes,  and  his  coarse  features  distorted  with 
|inrv.  Their  arms  are  bows  and  arrows,  with  points  of  flint 
'<^'1y  attached  with  sinews,  so  as  to  remain  sticking  in  the 
I.  Thev  are  excellent  archers,  and  ns<i  with  skill  the 
U'^'.  the  javelin,  and  above  all  their  formidable  bolas,  Avhich 
wve  them  both  for  bringing  the  guanaco  to  the  grounti,  or 
|r breaking  the  skull  of  an  onemy.     When  not  engaged  in 

L  L 


;  -.1 


614 


THH    POLAR    \VOTl[.T). 


h 


war  or  in  the  chase,  llie  ineii,  like  nxjst  siivao'cs,  ])ass  tlitii 
time  in  absolute  idleiioss,  lcavin<^'  all  Iho  liotis(.'L(»l<l  work  to 
the  Avouien.  Aniiisemonts  they  have  but  few.  The  use  of 
dice  they  have  learnt  from  the  Si)aniar(ls.  They  arc  said  to 
bo  a  false  and  deceitful  people,  but  their  hospitality  and  oood 
nature  have  been  frequently  extolled  by  travellers. 


I 


■J'ho  Gu.maco. 


-*-    nioi 

'J'c  sealt 

^ninia 
l^nowhut 

'it-'  Avret( 
'^■''uldbet 
■i'iiiii.st  e 

Cut  ev( 
■'^ilisatio 
I"'ii.'ibit  t] 


.   -  - — 5.*^   -     -to-     i  .         -      "         ■  *  ."^^ 


Staton  Island -Ca])(.;  lloru. 
(Frrm  an  oriijinal  skotrl:  by  Fie'I'Tirk  Wiyrnp'  •  ) 


CHAPTER  XL. 

THE    FUEGIANS. 

Their  miserable  Condirion — Degradation  of  Body  and  INIind — Powers  of  J\lin>ii-rv 
—  Notions  of  Bartor-Cansos  of  their  low  Stalo  of  Cnllivation — 'I'litir  l-'ond — 
Limpets — Cyttaria  Darwini — Constant  Migrations — The  Fncgian  Wigwam  — 
Weapons — Their  prohable  Origin— Their  Number,  and  varlons  Trilie« — Con- 
stant Feuds — Cannilialism — Language — Adventures  of  Fuegia  Basket.  Jemmy 
r.atton,  and  York  ]Minster--]\rissionary  Labours — Captain  Gariliner — Hi* 
ianientabl''  End. 

11IIE  wilds  of  Tierra  del  Fueg-o  are  inhabited  by  a  race  of 
-    men  generally  supposed  to  occupy  the  lowest  grade  in 
the  scale  of  humanity.     In  a  far  more  rig-orous  climate,  the 
Esquimaux,  their  northern  antipodes,  exhibit  skill  in  their 
>no\v  huts,  their  kayaks,  their  weapons,  and  their  dress  ;  but 
[the  wretched  Fuegians  are  ignorant  of  every  useful  tirt  that 
ffnild  better  their  condition,  and  contrive  scarcely  any  defence 
siraiust  either  rain  or  wind. 
But  even  among  the  Fuegians  there  are  various  grades  of 
vilisation — or  rather  barbarism.     The  eastern  tribes,  which 
|;uliabit  the  extensive  plains  of  King  Chaides'  South  Land, 

L   L   2 


516 


THH    POLAIl   WOULD. 


Hoeiii  closely  Jilliod  to  tlio  riitu<,'oniiiiis,  iiiul  are  ii  vory  dillcr- 
ent  race  from  the  uiulcr.sized  wretches  further  westward.  A 
manile  of  o-uaiiaco  skin,  with  the  wool  outside — the  iisuul 
Pata|,'ouian  jjfariuent — loosely  thrown  over  their  shoulders, 
and  leavinj^^  their  persons  as  often  exposed  as  covered, 
affords  them  some  protection  a<j;'ainst  the  piercing-  wind. 
The  condition  of  the  central  trihes  inhabiting-  the  south- 
western bays  and  inlets  of  this  dreary  country,  is  much 
more  miserable.  Those  further  to  the  west  possess  se;il 
slvins,  but  here  the  men  are  satisfied  with  an  otter  skin 
or  some  other  covering*  scarccdy  larf^-er  than  a  pocket  luind- 
kerchief.  It  is  hiced  across  the  breast  by  strin<^-s,  iiiid 
accordiuL;-  as  the  wind  blows  it  is  shifted  from  side  to  side. 
But  all  have  not  even  tliis  wretched  giirment,  for  near 
W(dlaston  Island,  Mr.  Darwin  saw  a  canoe  with  six  Fueo-ians, 
one  of  whom  was  a  wonuin,  naked.  It  was  rainini;'  hea\  ily, 
and  the  fresh  water,  together  with  the  spray,  trickled  dowu 
their  bodies.  In  another  harbour,  not  far  distant,  a  woman. 
who  Avas  sucklin<>;  a  recently-born  child,  came  one  day  ahini;- 
side  the  vessel,  and  remained  there  out  of  mere  curiosity, 
Avhilst  the  sleet  fell  and  tluiwed  on  her  naked  b()Som  and  on  the 
skin  of  her  naked  baby  !  These  poor  wretches  Avere  stunted 
in  their  gTowth,  their  faces  bedaubed  Avith  Avhite  iiainl. 
their  skins  filthy,  their  hair  cntano-led,  their  voices  discordant, 
and  their  gestures  violent. 

The  Fueg-ians  Avliom  Cook  met  Avitli  in  Christmas  Sound 
were  equally  Avretclied.  Their  canoes  Avere  made  of  the  l)aik 
of  trees  stretched  over  a  framcAvork  of  sticks,  and  the  paddlt- 
which  serA^ed  to  propel  these  miserable  boats  Avere  snudl| 
and  of  an  equally  miserable  Avorknumship.  In  each  cano<' 
sat  from  fiA'^e  to  eight  persons,  but  instead  of  greeting  the 
strangers  Avitli  the  joyful  shouts  of  the  South  Sea  Islandci'.s.i 
they  roAA'ed  along  in  perfect  silence ;  and  even  AA'hen  qmti'j 
close  to  the  vessel,  they  only  uttered  from  time  to  tiun'j 
the  Avord  '  Pe'scheriih  !  '  After  repeated  invitations  s^ninoj 
of  these  savages  came  on  board,  but  Avithout  exhibiting  tlioj 
least  sign  of  astonishment  or  curiosity.  None  Avere  abuvoj 
5  feet  4  inches  high  ;  they  had  large  heads,  broad  faces,  Avitl 
prominent  cheek-bones,  Hat  noses,  small  and  lack-ln.>tn 
eyes;   and    their   black    hair,  smeared    Avith    fat,    hung  in 


nc  \[\ 


m 


lin-c 


'iin  any 
(I  sueli 

Seiilt  it  i 


Tiir:  rrRGiAXf. 


;i7 


l.     A 
\is\iul 

ll*\0V8, 

\vin*l. 
sout\i- 

ev   skill 
it  lii\ud- 
gs,  'dwX 
to  side, 
for    nrwv 
i^acgiaus, 
.•  lieavily, 

led  tlt'^^'i^    ' 
a  wowau. 
by  alon--- 
cuviosity, 

e  stuutt'i^l 

ito    I'a'ni^. 
iseovcl'.nit, 

..^s   Hound 
it'  tlie  ^)avlc 
he  paddW-^ 
[eve  siuull. 
lacli  cviuo<' 
[eetiug  tlif 
Islanders. 

aion  n^ii^>' 
le   to  tiw'' 


lions 


joUlO 


Ibitin^j;  tlni 

^'ere  alx'voj 

faces,  ^vitll 

lack-lustv' 

liung  ii' 


iiiiittod  looks  over  their  slionMors.     Instead  of  a  l)enril,  their 

chin  exhibited  a  few  stra;4'^lin<,'  bristles,   and    their  Avholo 

iippoarance  aft'orded   a    strikin<^  pietnro   ol'  iibject   misery. 

Tlioir  shoulders  and  breast  were  broad  and  stnm^-ly  bnilt, 

bat  the  extreinities  of  the  body  so  nien^n-e  and  shrivelled, 

that  one  eonld  hardly  realize  the  fiutt  that  they  beh)n^(d  to 

till'  upper  part.     The  le^^'s  were  eroolced,  the  knees  dispro- 

lioi'tiouately  thiek.     Their  sole  i^arnieut  eonsisted  of  a  small 

pie'-'e  of  seal  skin,  attaehed  to  the  neek  by  means  of  a  cord, 

ntherwise  they  were  quite  naked  ;  but  even  these  miserable 

irtMtures   had  made   an   attempt  to   decorate   their   olive- 

brewu  skin  with  some  strii:)es  of  ochre.     The  women  were 

as  ugly   as  the    men.     Their  food  consisted  of  raw,    hall- 

liutrifl   seal's    flesh,   Avhich    made   them    smell  so    horribly, 

lliiit  it  was  impossible  to  remain    lonfjf    near  them.     Their 

iutollig'once   was    on  a  par  with   the  tilth    of  their  bodies. 

The  most  expressive  signs  wore  here  of  no  avail.     Gestures 

vliirh  the  most  dull-headed  native  of  any  South  Sea  island 

iiniuediately    understood,   these  savages    either  did    not,  or 

"iiuld  not  give  themselves  the  trouble  to  comprehend.     Of 

:!io  superiority  of  the  Europeans  they  appeared  to  have  no 

ilea,  never  expressing  by  the  slightest  sign  any  astonishment 

it  the  sight  of  the  sliij)  and  the  various  objects  on  board.    It 

[fould  however  be  doing  the  Fuegians  injustice  to  suppose 

lioiu  all  on    .a    level  with  these  wretches.      According  to 

|Furster,  they  were  most  likely  outcasts  from  the  neighbour- 

g-  tribes. 

^Ir.  Darwin,   as  well  as   Sir  James   Eoss,  describes  the 

'ueiiians  whom  they  met  with  in  the  Bay  of  Good  Success, 

'1  on  Hermit  Island,  as  excellent  mimics.     '  As  often  as 

f:  coughed  or  j-awned,'  says  the  former,  '  or  made  auy  odd 

I'jtion,  they  immediately  imitated  us.     Some  of  our  i^arty 

•:a\i  to  squint  and  look  awry,  but  one  of  the  young  Fuegians 

fliose   whole    face  was  painted  black,  excep>ting   a  Avhite 

kid  across  his  eyes)  succeeded  in  making  far  more  hideous 

iinaces.     They  could  repeat  with  perfect  correctness  each 

r-l  in  an}'  sentence  wo  addressed  them,  and  they  romem- 

'vd   such  words  for  some  time.     Yet  we  all  know  how 

fficult  it  is  to  distinguish  apart  the  sounds  in  a  foreign 

■i'liaw.' 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


Ilia 

m 
m 


M 

IM 

2.0 


U    III  1.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


.•V 


4^ 


^ 


^^ 


\\ 


o^ 


«■ 


'%'■ 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


fc"    «?< 


51S 


THE   I'OLAK    WORLD. 


Close  to  the  junction  of  Ponsonby  Sound  with  the  Bcii^'l.' 
Channel,  where  Mr.  Darwin  and  his  party  spent  the  night,  a 
small  family  of  Fuegians  soon  joined  the  strangers  round  a 
blazing  fire.  Tney  seemed  well  pleased,  and  all  joined  in  the 
chorus  of  the  seamen's  songs.  During  the  night  the  lU'ws 
had  spread,  and  early  in  the  morning  other  Fuegians  iirrived. 
Several  of  these  had  run  so  fast  that  their  noses  were  bleeil- 
ing,  and  their  mouths  frothed  from  the  rapidity  with  which 
they  talked  ;  and  with  their  naked  bodies  all  bedaubed  with 
black,  white,  and  red,  they  looked  like  so  many  demons. 

These  people  plainly  showed  that  they  had  a  fair  notion 
of  barter.  Mr.  Darwin  gave  one  man  a  large  nail  (a  iii(»st 
valuable  present)  without  making  any  signs  for  a  return ; 
but  he  immediately  picked  out  two  fish,  and  handed  them  \\i) 
on  the  point  of  his  spear.  Here  at  least  we  see  signs  <il' 
a  mental  activity,  favourably  contrasting  with  the  stolid 
indifierence  of  the  Fuegians  seen  by  Forster  at  Christmas 
Harbour;  and  Mr.  Darwin  is  even  of  opinion,  that  in  general; 
these  people  rise  above  the  Australians  in  mental  powei,] 
although  their  actual  acquirements  may  be  less. 

The  reason  why  the  Fuegians  are  so  little  advanced  in  tlioj 
arts  of  life,  are  partly  to  be  sought  for  in  the  nature  of  thoj 
land,  and  partly  in  their  political  state.  The  portlil 
equality  among  the  individuals  in  each  tribe  must  rotaiili 
their  civilisation;  and  until  some  chief  shall  arise  witlij 
power  sufficient  to  secure  any  acquired  advantage,  biul 
as  the  domesticated  animals,  it  seems  scarcely  possible 
that  their  condition  can  improve.  But  the  chief  causes  <'i 
their  wretchedness  are  doubtless  the  baiTenness  c>f  thoiij 
country  and  their  constant  forced  migrations. 

With   the  exception  of  the   eastern  part,    the  hahitabl^ 
land  is  reduced  to  the  stones   on  the   beach.      In   soaiv 
of  food  they  are  compelled  to  wander  from  spot  to  spot! 
and  so  steep  is  the  coast,  that  they  can  only  move  about  i| 
their  canoes.     Whenever  it  is  low  water,  winter  or  suniiiit'ij 
night  or  day,  they  must  rise  to  pick  limpets  from  the  rocl^ 
and  the  women  either  dive  to  collect  sea-eggs,  or  sit  patiintll 
in   their   boats,   and  with  a   baited    hair-line,  without  aiij 
hook,  jerk  out  little  fish.     If  a  seal  is  killed,  or  the  ll<':i( 
ing  carcase  of  a  putrid  whale  discovered,  it  is  a  feast;  iim 


FUK(JIAX    IJAUBAIUSM. 


519 


such  miserable  food  is  assisted  by  a  few  tasteless  ben-ies, 
chieHy  of  a  dwarf  arbutus,  or  by  a  globular  briglit  yellow 
fungus  {Ci/ttttrla  Dnrwinii),  which  grows  in  vast  numbers  on 
tlie  beech  trees.  When  young,  it  is  elastic,  with  a  smooth 
surface ;  but,  when  mature,  it  shrinks,  becomes  tougher, 
and  has  its  entire  surface  deeply  pitted  or  honey-combed, 
hi  this  mature  state  it  is  collected  in  large  quantities  by 
the  women  and  children,  and  is  eaten  uncooked.  It  has  a 
mucilaginous,  slightly  sweet  ta.ste,  with  a  faint  smell  like  that 
of  a  mushroom. 

The  necessity  of  protecting  themselves  against  the  ex- 
tremity of  cold,  and  of  obtaining  their  food  fpun  the  sea,  or 
by  the  chase  of  the  reindeer  or  the  white  bear,  forces  the 
Esquimaux  to  exert  all  their  fticulties,  and  thus  they  have 
raised  themselves  considerably  higher  in  the  scale  of  civili- 
sation than  the  Fuegians,  whose  mode  of  life  requires  far 
less  exertion  of  the  mind.     To  knock  a  limpet  from  the 
rock,  or  to  collect  a  fungus,  does  not  even  call  cunning  into 
exercise.     Living  chiefly  upon  shell-fish,  they  are   obliged 
constantly   to  change   their   abode,  and   thus  they  hardly 
bestow  any  thought  on  their  dwellings,  which  are  more  like 
the   dens  of  wild   beasts    than    the  habitations   of  human 
beings.     The  Fuegian  wigwam  consists  of  a  fe^v  branches 
stuck  in  the  ground,  and  very  imperfectly  thatched  on  one 
side  with  a  few  tufts  of  grass  and  rushes.     The  whole  cannot 
be  the  work  of  an  hour,  and  it  is  only  used  for  a  few  days. 
At   intervals,  however,  the  inhabitants  of  these  wretched 
liuts  return  to  the  same  spot,  as  is  evident  from  the  piles 
uf  old  shells,  often  amoimting  to  several  tons  in  weight. 
Those  heaps  can  be  distinguished  at  a  distance  l)y  the  bright 
irreen  colour  of  certain  plants,  such  as  the  wild  celery  and 
aiuvy  grass,  which  invariably  grow  on  them. 

The  only  articles  in  the  manufacture  of  which  the  Fuegians 
4iow  some  signs  of  ability  are  a  few  ornaments  and  their 
weapons,  which  again  are  far  inferior  to  those  of  the 
Esquimaux.  Their  bows  are  small  and  badly  shaped,  their 
arnnvs,  which  are  between  two  and  three  feet  long,  feathered 
;it  one  end  and  blunted  at  the  other.  The  points  are  only 
attached  when  the  arrow  is  about  to  be  used,  and  for  this 
I'urposc  the  archer  carries  them  about  with  him  in  a  leathern 


520 


Tin:    POLAU    WOULD. 


pouc'li.  The  shaft  of  tlitur  lar^'or  spears  is  about  ten  U-vi 
loiifjr,  jiiul  equally  thick  at  both  eiuls.  At  one  of  the  fxlrt*- 
mitie.H  is  a  Hssiire,  into  which  a  pointed  bone  with  a  barl»0(l 
hook  is  insortecl  and  ti<,'htly  bound  with  a  thread.  With  this 
weajxtn  they  most  probably  attack  the  seals  ;  they  also  use  it 
to  detach  the  shell  iish  from  the  rocks  below  the  surface  of 
the  water.  A  second  spear,  lonj^'erand  lighter  than  the  lirst, 
with  a  barbed  point,  serves  most  likely  as  a  weapon  of  war: 
and  a  third  one,  much  shorter  and  comparatively  thin,  may 
perliJijis  be  destined  for  the  birds.  The  females  know  how 
to  make  ]>retty  necklaces  of  coloured  shells  and  basketf*  of 
{•rjj.ss  stalks.  Here,  as  with  all  other  races  of  mankind, 
we  find  the  <j;'erms  of  imi»rovement,  which  only  rt'((uire  lor 
their  development  the  external  impulse  of  more  favoiu-ahlo 
circumstances. 

If  it  be  asked  whether  they  feel  themselves  as  miseniMt! 
as  their  wretched  appearance  would  lead  us  to  believe  tluni, 
it  must  be  replied  that  most  travellers  describe  them  as 
a  cheerful,  ^ood-humoured,  contented  peo})le ;  and  as  Mr. 
Darwin  iinely  remarks,  '  Nature,  by  making'  habit  oiiuii- 
potent  and  its  effects  hereditary,  has  fitted  the  Fue<^'ian  to 
the  climate  and  the  productions  of  his  country.' 

The  number  of  these  sava<j;es  is  no  doubt  very  small,  as 
seldom  more  than  thirty  or  forty  individuals  are  seen  to- 
gether.    The  interior  of  the  mountainous  islands,  which  is 
as  little  known  as  the  interior  of  Spitzbergen,  is  no  doubt 
eom])h.'tely  luiinhabited ;  as  the  coasts  alone,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  eastern  and  more  level  part  of  the  couiitrv, 
whore  the   guanaco  finds  pasture,  are  able  to  furnish  tho 
means  of  subsist(Mice.     The  various  tribes,  separati'd  from 
each  other  by  a  deserted  nt.'utral  territta-y,  are  nevertheless 
engaged  in  constant  feuds,  as  quarrels  are  perpetually  arising,' 
about  the  possession  of  some  limpet-l)ank  or  Hshing-staticii. 
When  at  war  they  are  cannibals ;  and  it  is  equally  certain 
that  when  pressed  in  winter  by  hunger  they  kill  and  devour 
their  old  women  before  they  kill  th(>ir  dogs,  alleging  as  an 
excuse   that   their   dogs   catch   otters,  and   old   women  do 
not. 

It  has  not  been  jiscortained  whether  tlu^yhave  any  distinct 
belief  in  a  future  life.     They  sometimes  bury  their  dead  in 


KIKOFAN   (  AN'NIHAMSM. 


521 


n  i'l'fl 

:h  tiiist 
I  >i8t'  it 
f-.u-e  *«f 

)l"  war: 
in,  mtiy 

jki'ts  of 

^uivo  t'"r 

iiiseriil'U^ 
A'O  tluMii, 
Uk'Iu  us 
1  as  Mr. 
)it  ouun- 
le^uiii  to 

small,  us 
soon  io- 
wlueli  18 
no  (loiil)t 

[i  the  ox- 
c'ouiitvy. 

iruisli  tbo 

litod  iVoiu 
,-t.rtlu"loss 

llv  avisitiir 

lo--stati»iii. 

ly  certain 

lid  devour 

,ino-  as  an 

rouieu  <1^' 


ky  distinct 
dead  in 


eaves,  niid  soinotiiivs  in  the  nionntain  forests.  Eaeh  family 
or  tribe  has  a  wizard,  or  conjnrinjjf  doetiu-.  Their  lan;4na<;(% 
of  wliieh  there  are  several  distinct  dialects,  is  lik(>wise  little 
knoAvn  ;  it  is,  however,  far  inferior  to  the  copious  and  expres- 
sive vocabulary  of  the  Esquinuiux. 

fn  iHijl),  while  Captain  Fit/roy  was  surveyi'.i<^th(»  coasts  ctf 
Fuo<,'i}i,  ho  seized  on  a  party  of  natives  as  liostafjes  for  the  loss 
cf  a  boat  which  had  been  stoh'U,  and  some  of  these  natives, 
as  well  as  a  child  belon<,nn<Tf  to  another  tribe,  whom  he  bou^dit 
for  a  pearl  button,  he  toc»k  with  him  to  England,  determinin-jf 
to  educate  them  at  his  own  expense.    One  of  them  afterwards 
(lied  of  the  small-pox;  but  a  youn^;  girl,  Fuegia  IJaskct.and  two 
boys,  Jemmy  Button  (thus  named  from  his  purchase  money) 
nnd  York  Minster  (so  called  from  the  i,nvat  ru^'i^'ed  mountain  of 
York  Minster,  near  Christmas  Sound),  were  placed  in  a  school 
at  Walthamstow,  and  nunvover  had  the  hoiidui"  of  bciuL,'  pre- 
sented to  Kino-  William  and  C^ueen  Adelaiile.     Tliree  years 
Jemmy  and  his   companions   remained  in    England,  at  the 
end  of  which  time  Captain  Fitzroy  was  a^ain  sent  out  to 
ooutinue  the  survey,  and  took  with  him  tliese  three  Fuegians, 
inlending  to  return  them  to  the  place  whence  they  had  come. 
In  tliis,  however,  he  was  disap[)ointed  ;    but  at  their  own 
viMpiest    York    and    Fuei^ia    were,    Avith    Jemmy,  deposited 
at  Woollya,  a  pleasant  looking   spot  in   Ponsonby  Sound, 
Ixlonging  to  Jemmy's  tribe.     His  family,  consisting  of  his 
mother  and  three  brothers,  was  absent  at  the  time,  but  they 
iirrived  the  following  nu)rning.     Jemmy  recognised  the  sten- 
tuiian  voice  of  one  of  his  bn)tliers  at  a  prodigious  distance, 
but  the   meeting,  as  Mv.  Darwin  wliit  witnessed  the  scene 
I't'lutes,  Avas  less  interejting  than  that  between  a  h(»rse  turned 
out  into  a  iield  and  an  old  companion.     Tliere  was  no  de- 
monstration of  affection;  they  simply  stared  for  a  short  time 
iit  each  other.     Three  large  wigwams  were  l)uilt  foi-  them, 
.'urdens    planted,    and    an    abundant    supply    of  everything 
landed    for   their   use.     Jemmy,   who  had    become  (piite    a 
liavourite  on  board,  was  short  and  fat,  but  vain  of  his  per- 
s'uul  appearance;  he  used  always  to  wear  gloves,  his  hair 
Uiis  neatly  cut,  and  he  was  distressed  if  his  well-pidislied 
shoos  were  dirtied.     York   was   somewhat  coarse  and  less 
[iutolligent,  though  in  some  things  he  could  be  quick.     He 


JftW 


521 


Tin:    roLAU    WOULD. 


bt'canio  attached  to  Fucfjfiu,  and  as  both  were  of  tlie  same 
tribe,  they  became  man  and  wife  after  their  return  to  Tiena 
del  Fuejjo.  She  was  the  most  intelligent  of  the  three,  and 
quick  in  learning  anything,  especially  languages. 

Thus  these  semi-civilised  savages  were  left  among  their 
barbarous  countrymen,  with  the  hope  that  they  might  be- 
come the  means  of  improving  their  whole  tribe ;  but  when 
Captain  Fit/roy  returned  to  the  spot  twelve  months  after, 
he  found  the  wigwams  deserted  and  the  gardens  trumjded 
under  foot.  Jemmy  came  paddling  up  in  his  canoe,  but 
the  dandy  who  had  been  left  plump,  clean,  and  well  dressed, 
was  nt)W  turned  into  a  thin,  haggard  savage,  with  long 
disordered  hair,  and  naked,  except  a  bit  of  a  blanket  round 
his  waist.  He  could  still  speak  English,  and  said  that 
he  had  enough  to  eat,  that  he  was  not  cold,  and  that  liis 
relations  were  very  good  people.  He  had  a  wife  besides, 
Avho  was  decidedly  the  best  looking  female  in  the  company. 
With  his  usual  good  feeling,  he  brought  two  beautiful  otter- 
skins  for  two  of  his  best  friends,  and  some  spear  heads  and 
arrows  made  with  his  own  hands  for  the  Captain.  He  had 
lost  all  his  property.  York  Minster  had  built  a  large  canoe,  and 
with  his  wife  Fuegia  had,  several  months  since,  gone  to  his 
own  country,  and  had  taken  farewell  by  an  act  of  consunnnate 
villany.  He  persuaded  Jemmy  and  his  mother  to  come  witli 
him,  and  then  on  the  way  deserted  them  by  night,  stealinjj^ 
every  article  of  their  property.  It  was  the  opinion  of  all  en 
board  that  the  cunning  rogue  had  planned  all  this  long  before, 
and  that  with  this  end  in  view  he  had  desired  so  earnestly  to 
remain  with  Jemmy's  tribe,  rather  than  be  landed  on  his 
own  country.  Eight  years  after,  an  English  vessel  put  into 
a  bay  in  the  Magellans  for  water,  and  there  was  found  a 
woman,  without  doubt  Fuegia  Basket,  who  said,  'How  do?\ 
1  have  been  to  Plymouth  and  London.'  York  Minster  \v;isi 
also  seen  in  1851.  From  Captain  Snow,  commander  of  tlic 
mission  yacht,  '  Allen  Gardiner,'  we  have  the  last  accounts  ef'J 
Jennny  Button  in  1855.  Twenty-three  years  had  not  ob-j 
literated  his  knowledge  of  the  English  language,  but  ho  was! 
as  wild  and  shaggy  as  his  untaught  countrymen.  In  spitoj 
of  his  superior  knowledge,  he  was  treated  as  a  very  inferic 
personage  by  the  members  of  his  tribe  ;  yet  he  declared  that 


CAITAIN    (iAUDINKK. 


.VJ.J 


■iaino 
iervii 
,  jukI 

tlh'ir 
it  be- 

lll'ti'l', 

)e,  but 
ressetl, 
li  Ion*; 
t  rouinl 
id  tlvul 
:liat  liis 
besiilos, 
Diupany. 
ul  otter- 
eads  ami 
He  liiul 
moo,  aiul 
lu'  to  lii> 
sunnavite 

Dine  >vitli 
stealin-^ 
of  all  on 
<T  bofove, 
•uestly  to 
d  on  lii^^ 
put  iiit" 
ibuml  a 
IHow  do":"! 
[nstor  NVii^  I 
ler  of  thf  I 
■counts  of] 
a  not  ob- 
[ut  lie  ^vil'^| 
In  ^I'i^i 
i-y  inlVri" 
luiva  that 


1  hough  he  loved  En<,'land,  he  loved  his  country  still  better; 
that  nothing  should  induce  him  to  leave  it,  and  that  he  would 
never  allow  any  of  ins  children  to  (luit  their  native  soil. 

Other  efforts  have  been  made  to  civilise  the  Fuegians. 
A  Spanish  vessel  having  been  shipwrecked  on  the  eastern 
eoast  in  17(37,  its  crew  was  hospitably  treated  by  the  natives, 
who  even  assisted  in  saving  the  cargo.  Out  of  gratitude,  the 
governor  of  Buenos  Ayres  sent  out  some  missionaries,  who, 
however,  totally  failed  to  make  any  impression  (»n  the  savages. 

A  no  less  unsuccessful  attempt  w^as  made  about  the  year 
I8:J5  by  English  missionaries  ;  and  the  expedition  of  Captain 
tJardiner,  who,  accomi»anied  by  a  surgeon,  a  catechist,  and  four 
Cornish  fishermen,  sailed  to  Fuegia  in  IHol,  with  the  inten- 
tion of  converting  the  natives,  proved  equally  fruitless,  and 
had  a  far  more  tragic  end.  His  measures  for  securing  the 
necessary  supplies  of  food  were  so  ill  calculated,  that  the 
whole  party  died  of  hunger  in  Spaniards'  Harbour,  on  the 
southern  coast.  Captain  ISIorshead,  of  the  'Dido,'  had 
received  orders  i)n  his  way  to  Valparaiso  to  visit  the  scene  of 
the  mission,  and  atford  Captain  (jJardiner  any  aid  he  might 
reipiire,  but,  on  arriving  at  the  cove,  he  found  it  deserted. 
After  a  few  days'  search  the  bodies  were  discovered,  and 
fragments  of  a  journal  written  by  Captain  Gardiner  gave 
proof  of  the  sufferings  which  they  had  endul'ed  before  death 
relieved  them  from  their  misery. 


[:^W^ 


P 


"^ 


•'"■'n  i 


1 


^A 


\ 


130 


170  West         180  Ea»t  »70 


'$■' 


iV 


—  ••.\f 

All  iifs 

tli,-i 
-til,. 


.\li-,\;i| 
-  Isl,. 

AL'.rii 

—  aiK 

I  -llirisk;, 

-rl,n 

Illniii 

•^i'll.'lllll 

A.'ai   M 

vi.ks. 

',',■■  II.,., 
■'.'iiiCiii 

•!,.,■  II 

-'■li.-irai 
■^  r.iiii^r, 
ID- 
-!'.,.  n.i 
'-'lir  tt-ll 

111-  mJ 

■w.ilriij 

|--lli>tni'i 

•  'irst  dj 


INDEX. 


AM-: 

Vll|;l,Ii:,  T.lTl",  tliHcnv.T.V  (tf.  ISO 
Ai^onli,  the,  of  J'ataiiiiiiia,  ofKi 
At:riciiliiirc,  slfiii' of,  in  Ictlaml,  G'2 
Aiu'iiii.  Irmi  V  of,  'JHi 
All',    rcnmrkjildi'   moixtiin-   of    tlir,    in 
'i'aitiiiirlaiiil,  2  \H 

i(s  |i(i'i>i  liml  niolioit  in  the   AMio 
/ontw.  'Jl!» 
Akuriir.  cIiIit  (liick>t  of.  fil 
.\llM>iii,  the  l{ns«<ian  fort  of,  Imill.  209 
ilisiiviycil    1"V  tlu'    Cliinisf,  litit  rc- 
l.iiilt,  210' 
Alli.iirosH,  waiiilt  rinir,  of  ilir  Antiiivtii.' 

-.•as  171 
Al  •vmiiaiiH  on  tlir  I'odsis  of  (iri't  iilaiul. 

It 
A!  iitiaii  Islan<ls,  cjimms  wliiili  ltd  totlio 
liisruvci-y  of  till',  211,  21.') 

—  \i(\V  of  till',  2.S1  ; 

..xtful  of  llii',  ;ms  ' 

Al.  iits,  tlirir  wn'tclicd  coiirlition  iinil<T 
llicir  inaHlcrs.  ."HI,  .'U2 

—  tlii'ir  skill  and  infrrjiidily  in  luint- 

iiijr,  ;{12-|j 
Al.  xaiidcr.  <'ai>f,  diHCorory  of,  {21 

—  Islaml,  discuvcrv  of.  4S0 

Al;jii'in('  piratt  s,  ravagi'S  of,  in  Iffland, 
.so 

—  and  in  llw  Wcslniann  Island",  108 
Alj.iska.  disoDVcry  of,  21*> 

—  .1  iiiati'  ot'tlic',  ;{07 
iii.iuntains  and  forests  of,  307 

I  Aiiiiannagja.  di'si'ri|.lion  of  tlic,  !'tCt 
A  t;ii   .Mountains,  iTo.-sfd   l.y   tiio  Cos- 

-iicks,  200 
A,!r|i,(.()|ij)(.r  mines  of,  1 1!) 
Ai'iiifjoi'd,  vt'jfet.'itioii  of  tlie  liui'ders  of 
•h.'.'llS,  11!) 

':!■  ii<'a,  N'ortli,  ti'ecless  zonc  of,  4-8 
l-tharaeter  of  tlie  Conifei-e  of.  8 
|~  r.iiiu'e  of  tile  caribou,  or  reindeer,  of, 

1  !t-2:{  I 

|-  tlir  musk-ox  of.  21  I 

t!i.'  white  dolpliiu  in  tlio  rivers  of,  13  | 

|-  t!i'  lilai'k  dolpliin  of,  4;{  ! 

Walruses  of  tlie  sli.)res  of.  4()  • 

I-  history  of  the  fur  tnide  of,  '•M'i  ct  snj,  • 
l-tirst  discoverers  and  settlers  of,  877 


AfU* 

Anieriea.  .Vortli.de-l ruction  oftiieCircen- 
iand  eoiohies,  1)77 

—  Mll>sei|nelit  discoveriew,  .'^7."^  '/  .«"/• 

—  tlie    Torso    Kork,   at     I'oint    D.-aso 

Tliiini|'S()ii,  .T91 
--  atlenipts  todiseo\er  tlie  XoHli-West - 

ITII  |iassa^'e  to  lllijia,  .'I8!t  rl  .inj. 
America,    HiiNsiiin,   its  transfer  to  the 

rniled  ."States,  ;U0,  no/,: 
Amur,   I'ivr,   diM'overy  of   lln'.  l>y  tlir 
llu-siiiiis,  2(»!» 

—  wliii  relin.|uis||  it  to  the  ( 'liiiies,.,  2IO 

—  tile  eoinilry  annexed  l.y  liiis^i.i,  21t» 
.\n;ik('rdiiik,  in  Norlli  (ireeiilaiiil.  Imried 

forest  of,  13 
Aiim'koks,  or  priests  of  the  I'.s.|nimanx, 

-.r.vi 

Animals,  comparatively  small   numl.er 
of,  in  till-  Arctic  refrioiis.  !> 

—  tiie  forests  the  liead<iiiartei"s  of  many, 

2.-) 
--  of  the  Arctic  seas.  40 

—  of  the  coasts  of  .sipifzlirrir.'n.  120 

—  fiir-liearint;  animals  of  Si'.eria,  221 

—  the  animals  of  Taimurland,  2.')1 

—  ot  Nishne  Kolymsk,  2().'J 

—  of  Newl'oiinilland,  112 

—  no    land   animals    in   t!io   Antarctic 

riL'ioii.  470 

—  those  of  I'ataL'onia,  .'tO't 

AniiiJ.  vegetalioiiof  tli.'Valli  yof  the,  2^.T 

—  chief  resouri'cof  I  he  j pleof  llic,  2<'>(J 

Anjiiu,    Lieut.,  his   ,\rctii-  ixplnrat  inns, 

•2.V.>,  200 
Arhangel,  fonndafinii  <>t'.  20  I 
.Vrehanirei.  New, site  of  ihc  town  of,  .'ill 

—  fur  trade  of,  ;i|  1 

me(lium  ot' ex.'hiili^ic  nt.  .'ilO 
.\r<'liers,  th.'  OMJaks  as.  I'.i'.t 
.Vntic  rejrions.  rivers  of  ih.'.  .'1 
--  limits  of  the  Arctii'  re(^iuns,  4 

—  tho  forest  rf.f.nons,  4-S 

—  the  treeless  wastes,  or  'I'lindra,  4,  ."j 

ill  summer  and  winter.  .').  (i 

thi'ir  extent  aii'l  lioiiieiariis,  7 

—  animal  life  in  the  Arcti,-  re^iuiis, !) 

—  iniluencc  of  the  se;i  and  winds  on  the 

severity  of  the  .\rctic  winter,  1 1 


5  20 


INDKX. 


AKC 

Arctic  regions,  the  lowest  toniiieraturcs 
felt  by  mail,  12 

—  how  man  becomes  accustomed  to  the 

rigours  of  an  Arctic  winter,  12,  13 

—  proofs  of  a   former  milder  climate 

in  the  northern  regions  of  the  globe, 
13,  14 

—  beauties  of  Nature  in  these  regions, 

16 

—  land  quadrupeds  and  birds,  17 

—  the  seas  of  the  Arctic  regions,  29 

—  compared  with  the  Antarctic  regions, 

465 
Arctic    voyages   of   discovery,  history 

jof,  377  ct  seq. 
Are  Thorgilson,  his  Icelandic  works,  79 
Argali  (^Ot'is  arqali),  of  Siberia.  24,  217 
Arrows  of  the  Ostjaks,  199,  200 
Ascidians  on  the  coasts  of  Greenhind, 

41 
Ash,  the,  in  the  Arctic  regions,  8 
Asia,  treeless  zone  of,  4-8 
Athabascan  Indians,  hunting  grounds  of 

the,  364 
Athissoff,  the  Cossack,  his  treatment  of 

the  natives  of  Kamtschatka,  21 1 
Atmosphere,  transparency  of  the,  in  the 

polar  regions,  36,  37 
■ —  phenomena  of,  reflection  and  retrac- 
tion, and  their  probable  causes,  37 
Auk,  the  giant-,  its  rarity  at  present  in 

Iceland,  68,  102 
Aurora  borealis,  3 

—  splendour  of  the  aiu'ora  in  the  Arctic- 

regions,  15,  16 

—  tei'ror  of  the  Lapps  at  the,  157 
Austin,  Captain,  his  scan-h  for  Franklin. 

411 
Avalanclies  of  ice  in  Spitzberp'Mi.  127 
Awaklok  and  Myonk,  their  imprison- 
ment on  an  icei>erg,  329,  330 
Awatscha  Bay,  sea-birds  of,  291 

—  its  magnificence  and  extent,  293 


BAATY    KUAN,    his    subjection    of 
Russia,  203 
Bachelor  river,  the,  495 
Back,  (Mr.,  aftcrwanls  Sir  George),  his 
Arctic  voyages,  395,  396,  399 

—  his  search  for  Captain  Ross.  407 

—  his  discovery  of  Great  Fish  River. 

408 

—  voyage  in  1835,  409 
Back's  river,  discovery  of,  408 
Badarany,  desert  of  swamps,  the,  261 
Baer,  Herr  von,  his  scientific  journey  to 

Novaya  Zemlya,  147 
Baffin,  his  voyages  of  discovery,  300 
Baffin's  Bay,  probable  influence  of  the 

northerly  winds  on  the  depression  of 

the  temperature  of,  1 1 


111;  A 

Baflin's  Bay,  walruses  of  the  coasiM.i,  |i, 

—  discovery  of,  390 

Balleny,  his  discoveries  in  the  Antarctic 

ocean,  480 
Balleny  Islands,  discovery  of,  48(i 
Banks's  Land,  pi-oofs  of  a  former  niildi  r 

temperature  in,  13 
Bards,  or  scalds,  of  Iceland,  79 
Barentz,  William,  visit  (jf,  to  Spitzhcr- 

gcn,  131 

—  his  voyages  of  discovery,  383,  ."iSt 

—  his  winter  in  Novaya  Zemlya,  38,") 

—  his  death,  387 

Barley,  cultivation  of,  in  Norway,  1  l.'l 
BaiTcn   grounds,   barrens,    or    tuiiilii. 
arctic  belt  of  the,  4 

—  causes  of  their  barrenness,  4 

—  their   appearance   in  winter  ami  in 
sumnur,  5 

— -  indistinct  and  irregidar  boundariosoi 
the,  7 

—  those  of  Newfoundland,  441 
Barrow  Point,  traffic  of,  335 
Barter  reef,  traffic  of,  335 

Bear,  black,  or  muskwa  ( Vrsus  umrn- 
cinnis),  value  of  the  fur  of  the,  3.jo 

—  description  of  him.  350,  355 

—  brown,    of    North     America,     3.Vt. 

351 

—  uf  Newfoundland,  442 

—  value  of  the  skins  of  the  yming  brnwii 

bear,  227 

—  grisly,    of    the    Rocky    Mountiiiiis 

( I'fKUn  J'lrox),  351 

—  his  skin,  351 

—  the  polar,  his  mode  of  hunting,  40 

—  his  favourite  food  and  mode  of  soiz- 

ing  it,  46,  47 
-  anecdote  of  one,  47 

—  instances  of  his  Hagiicity,  47 

—  parental  care  of  the  she-bear.  17 

—  —  her  winter  nursery,  47,  ^S 
her  internal  store  of  food  for  lier  \ 

hybernation,  48 

—  immense  strength  of  claws  and  tedli, 

48,  49 

—  his  unwelcome  visits  to  Iceland,  61 

—  of  8pitzbergen,  129 

—  of  Novaya  Zemlya,  143 

—  Lapp  mode  of  hunting  the,  164-l()(j 

—  Esquimaux  methods  of  hunting  tli'.j 

327, 328 

—  of  Newfoundland,  442 

—  abundance  of  bears  in  Kamtsi'lintkn,| 

295 
Bear  Island,  or  Chcrie  Island,  acooimtj 
of,    136 

—  climate  of,  137 

—  walruses  of,  137,  138 

—  boat-voyages   of  Norwegian   siil"i1 

from,  138,  139 

—  dispovery  of.  38 1 


llei 


i.f 


I 

ii 


iNDi:x. 


5-27 


>tMit.    I'' 

\nturctii- 
48(1 


ler  m 


9 


il.lcr 


SpitzbtT- 

$83,  ?>»\ 
ilyii,  38.-) 

pwiiy,  n:> 
or    tiuiili'i. 

s,  4 

oter  ami  i" 

441 
') 

'J mis  tinifri- 
A  the,  l^-)'' 
,  305 
ncrioa,    !5''>"- 


yovnigl'i'tiwii 
r    Mouutiiiii- 


(unitinfi,  1'', 
no>lo  of  sou. 


y,  47 

t-bear.  17 

food  for  !>•■'' 
Icclaiiil.  (>l 


t) 


the,  K'l-":" 
If  hunting 


tlK 


iKamtsehat^^'l 
khma,  aocouiitl 


UKA 

l?far  IslanJ,  survfvod  bv  tlif  I{ii«sian^. 

214 
Bt;ap,  soa,  value  uftho  Hkiu  of  tin-,  iu 

China,  313 

—  chase  of  llic.  in  the  Pribih>w  Islamls, 

313 

—  famiiii's  aii<l  batlhs,  314 

—  sketch  of  the,  310 

—  the  Austral  sea-bear,  477 

11.  aver  (Cantor  Jificr),  its  skin  tlu  stan- 
dard of  exehango  with  tiie  Canidiaii 
Indians,  348 

—  former  enormous  trade  in  the  fur  of 

the,  354 

—  of  Newfoundland,  44'J 

liraver  Indians,  their  hunting-grounds, 

3fi4 
I!oe,  sand-  {Andrciia),  of  Novaya  Zcm- 

iya.  151 
Hteeh,  Antarctic  (Fof/un  /irtuloidrs),  4!»3 


l;iN 

Mireli.  papi-r,  value   of  the.   in    North 

Anieriea,  33'J 
Birds,  flights  of  wild,  in  summer  months 

in  the  Tundra.  5 

—  their   migrations  to  and  from  high 

latitudes,  '2C>,  27.  40 

—  the   polar   singing   biifl,    tl.o  snow- 

bunting,  27 

—  raptorial  birds  oft  he  Arctic  regions, 28 

—  enonuous  number,s  of  birds  along  I  ho 

Arctic  shores,  4i) 

—  Icohiudic  birds,  04 

—  of  the  coast  of  Norway,  1 13 

—  of  Spitzbergcn.  125,  120,  r_'!> 

—  of  Novaya  Zemlya,  151,  152 
a  liird  baxaar,  152 

—  abundance  of  sca-fowl  on  the  coast 

of  Kamtschatka,  21)1 

—  Esijuimaux   ukkIo  of  bird  catchinir, 

325 


Keechy,  Captain,  his  voyage  to  Bfhring's    ■    —  abunilance  of.  on  the  coast  of  (irecn- 


Straits,  400 
Reerenberg  mountain,  131) 
Bihring,  Titus,  never  passed   through 

the  straits  bearing  his  name,  21 1 

his  second  voyage,  215 

his  second  voyage  of  discovery, 

282, 283 

—  his  bad  conduct,  284 

—  his  death,  287 

Bchring  Island,  Behring  and  Stelhron, 

285 
Bcliring  sea,  description  of  the.  300 

—  barren  laiuls  at.  7 

—  seals  and  walruses  of,  44.  40 

—  its  chmate.  307 

—  eharacter  of  the  shores  of  the.  308 
-animals  of  the,  308 

Beliring's  Straits,  view  of  the  Old  and 
New  Worlds  in  the.  309 

—  I'aptain  Beeehy's  voyage  to,  400 
B'lcber,    Sir    Kdward,  his    search    for 

Franklin,  414 

Mlinghausen.  his  discovery  of  the  Is- 
lands Paul  the  First  and  Alexander, 
■180 

ll'Uot,  Lieut.,  his  gallant  search  for 
rranklin,  414 

—  his  death  and  monument,  418 
"liiga,   or   white    doljihin    {Deljihiiiir-: 

I'liciis),  description  of  the,  42 
ilomain  of  the,  43 

I  i»  higa  Bay,  visit  of  Von  Baer's  partv 
to,  147 

lli'iinet,  Stephen,  his  visit  to  Bear  Is- 
land, 130 

liVrrv-gatheiing  in  Nishne  Kolymsk, 
207 

iBillMTries  of  the  Arctic  regions,  8 

IBillings,  vovage  of,  on  the  const  of  Si- 
l>oi-i;i,  2l"i 
Srv'li  trees  in  the  .Vrctic  regions.  8 


land,  458 

—  of  the  coasts  of  the  Antarctic  sea,  470 

—  of  Patagonia,  507 

Birkarls,  their  final  subjugation  of  tiie 

Lapps,  155 
Biscoe,  his  discovery  of  Emlerby  Land, 

480 

—  and  of  Graham  Land,  4  80 

Black  death,  ravages  of  the,  in  the  North, 

451 
Blackfeet  Indians,  their  wars  with  the 

Tinne  and  Crocs,  357.  358 
Bh)ody  Falls,  on  tiio  Coppermine  riv.M-, 

324 
Boats  of  the  I'^squimaux,  322 

—  the  birch-bark  canoes  of  North  Anie- 

riea, 330 

Bogberries  of  the  Arctic  regions,  8 

r>ooth.  Sir  Felix,  his  Arctic  exiiedilion. 
402,  403 

Bougainville,  his  voyage  thro\igh  the 
Strait  of  Magellan,  .500 

Brandt,  tiie  Danish  forester,  his  jour- 
ney with  Von  ^liddendorff,  241 

Brandv,  fondness  of  the  Saniojedes  for, 
17ti-8 

—  drunk  at  Kolymsk,  208 

Brant  Ysbraiitzoou,  his  voyiiges  of  dis- 
covery, 383 
Bread  of  the  poor  Icelanders,  02 
Bredal,  Eric,  his  eiliication  of  Laj^ps  in 

Christianity,  155 
Bridges,  swing,  of  Iceland,  loo 
Buchan.  Captain,  his  Arctic  voyage,  3!)2 
Bunting,  its  migrations  to  and  from  the 
north,  20 

—  the  Lapland  {CvntropkHnea  Luppn- 

w^("»^s•),  liititudes  inhabited  by  the, 

27 
Bunting,  the  snow,  the  ]iolar  singing 
bird.  27 


m 


5-28 


IXUKX. 


i!i:.\ 


CON' 


Hunting,  its  nest  and  food,  27 

—  of  Iccliiiul.  ()t 

—  of  SpitzlHTjr,.]],  129.  195 
lliir^'lars,  troiitnuuf  of,  in  IJussia,  221 
liiirroiifrli,  Stejiiicn,  his  voyiipc  to  dis- 
cover tlio  noi'tli-castirii  passajre,  380 

IJiisa,  Jclifispi.   Iiis  asoint  of  tlio  rivtTH 
l.ciia  an<l  Olcknia.  209 

—  liis  discovery  of  tlie  Tana,  209 

—  liis  residence  among  the    Jnliahii-s, 
209 

Halter,    made  from  the   reindeer  milk. 

19 
Tiuttprllici  in  T.iinnirhmd,  218 
]>yron.  ("onmiodore.  iiis  vovajje  throufjii 
"tho  .Strait  of  Mageiljin,  500 


CI.Vr.OT.  Ji.hn  and  Sohastian.  tiieir 
)  le-discovery  of  jiarls  of  North 
America.  378 

—  liieir  re-discovery  of  Newfoundland, 
4H 

Canada,  enterprise  of  tlie  French  settlers 
in,  312 

—  results  of  the  l']iiglish  conquest  of, 

312 

—  history  of  the  fur-trade  of.  313 
('aim,    Sebastian  el,  his  voyage   round 

the  globe,  41)8 
Canoes,  Lirdi-bark,  of  Nortli  America, 

339,  310 
Cape,  Noi-th,  description  of  the,  120.  121 
Cariliou,  or  reiuih'cr  of  North  America, 

range  of  the,  19 
Carrancha,  tiie,  of  Patagonia.  oO" 
Ciirtier.  Jacquts,  his  voyages,  378 
Caryopliyilie,  the,  of  tlie  treeless  zone,  7 
Cascades  of  Icehiud,  o9 
Castor  and  Pollux  river,  discovery  of, 

409 
Castren,   ^Mattliias    Alexander,  account 

of  him  and  of  Ids  journeys,  171-186 
Catlieriiie"s  Foivlaml.  Queen.  491 
Cattle,  value  of,  to  the  Icelanders,  62,03 
(^ivendish,  his  Viiyages,  499 
Chancellor,  his  discovery  of  the  passage 

from  I-aigland  to  the  White  S<'a,  204 

—  his   voyage   to  discover  the    iiorth- 

easteni  ronli'  to  China,  378 

—  his  visit  to  .^loscow.  and  subseqmnt 

tate,  37i» 
Charles  IX.,  l\ing  of  Sweden,  his  kiiid- 

nesis  to  llie  Lapps,  l.w'i 
Chatanga    river,  scantv   population    i)( 

the.  240 

—  MiddeudoriY's  journey  to  flie,  240 
Chataiigsk,    MiddeiuUu-rt's   journey    to, 

212 
Cheese  mivde  from  reindeer  milk,  19 
Clierie  Island,  account  of,  136 
Chess-players  of  tho  Tungu,9i,  279 


Cliickweed,  tlio,  on  the  Mary  Minium 

river,  6 
Cliimango,  the,  of  Patagonia,  .Vi? 
China,  Castren's  journey  overthenioim. 

tains  into,  18.i 
Ciiiiiese  take  the  Itussian  fort  (tf  Alb.i- 

sin,  210 

—  and  make  the  treaty  of  Neiischiiisk 

witli  the  Pussians,  2)0 

—  the  treaty  brt^ken  i)y  the  Pussiaus, 

who  compel  the   Cliiiieso  to   give 
them  (he  Amur.  210 
Chiima  {.Mtj)/ii/i.i  chiiitju},  its  fetid  >■ - 

eretion.  3.>2 
Christ i.iu  1\'..  King  of   Denmark.  Ins 
treatment    of  tiie  Lapp  priests   mihI 
soreertTs,  lo,) 

—  liis  expedition  to  Greenlaml,  4.")1 
Chris! ianity,    inlrudiictiun  of,  into  Ici'- 

hmd.  77 
Christinas     Harbour,     in     Kergueb  n's 

Lanil,  474 
Churches  of  the  Icelanders,  91 
Clavering.  his  voyage  to  (ireenlaini.  I.i.'i 
Clergy  of  tlie  TiMpps,  their  poverty  ;ii;d 

self-denial,  loO 

—  their  sermons,  l.")6 

—  those  of  Iceland  all  Idacksniitlis,  8'.>, 

note;  93 

—  -  their  ]ioverty,  93 

Coal,  does  not  exist  in  Iceland,  72 

—  of  Spitzlierijen.  130 

—  ill  Coal  r>av,  13S 
Coal  Pay.  13S 

Cocldearia  feiiestrata.  the  only  esculiiit 
]ilant  ill  Spiizbrrgeii,  129,  13o 

Cod  and  cod-tishing  of  the  const  nf 
Iceland,  69.  70 

—  the  coil  called  stockfish.  70 

—  the  eod-tishery  of  Norwav.  1 1.").  1  lH,  j 

118,  120 

—  —  wretched  stale  of  the  fisliiriiicii, j 

117 

—  exports  of  eod-lish  to  varioii--  cuiiii- 

tries,  120 

—  cod-ti-hery  of  Grei'idand,  4.")S 

—  value    of    the    cod-H>hery   of  N'l  «• 

foundlaiid.  4t.'» 

—  motle  of  (ishiug  and  curiiiir  the  ci'l,! 

44.3,  440 

—  dantrei's  of  the  fishery.  447 
-  imnnmso  nnniliers  of  the  lisli.  147 

Coil-liver  oil  of  Troiiis(").  118 
Collinson.     Captain,      his     seaiiu    f"i 

Franklin,  41.'»,  417 
Commodore  Islands,  chase  of  tho  pci^ 

liiar  on  the.  313 
Condor,  the,  of  Patagonia.  o07 
Conifera'.  .arctic  forests,  almost  cniifinp 

to  t!ie,  8 

—  dirtercnce  between  the  Kuropi;in  iinl 

Asiatic  and  Aniericiin  species,  S 


COST 


INDEX. 


Port  of  A 11. a- 


^«■."Ht  pn'IIge  '39,  '^'''''''  '^'  n^rth- 
t'ook.  Capfain,  J.is  discovery  of  S,  „♦., 

—  his  Antaivtic  Fovaffes  47Q  Aan 
,T  "^  J^'iipasg,  no 

'  <W^'S''^"'-  ^'^«  ^«^"^-  of   I 
C.-ueu,a...  carpets  Of;  and  M,e  ...,..„ 

Cossacks   J),,,,    ,,.  ^    ,    ' '''•''""^•■"■.  3/8 
-  tl'.jr  privil,.pp.s  and  ,l„uV.  in  Vi  1 


529 


DOO 


C^unWland  Strait.  Day;.,  discoven- of. 

'"Ems:^:"^  ^yr^  <  and 

38,  39  "^-^"mulation  of  ice, 


Coiireiirde  Lois,  the  of  V....I    a 
a38  '  °'  *^'^'"'  America, 

( 'ran  I  terries  of  tJu.  1..  .»• 

tVee   Indians      se;?V"'^'°"''''' 
treetotlie'340        ^^'^'^^'l^-'-f-ireh 

_     -bs.„..l,.,,5va^Sir'''"^ 
"--ars  .,tl.  the  Blackteet,  307. 
-  their  character,  3.-)8 

-f'g^-i«ton.s,  habits,  and  dress,  308. 
I   "'|'*'l''^'^'^snndfamihVs  3fi() 
I     ''f!'' "iffuams,  or  tents  ■?-.«   Q«n 

-""•ir  games  and  sports.  361 

-'t;^-^-  «^-es'j;\.„..,,,, 

■'''••ir  malicious  or  caprieiou.s  spi,,-, 
.died  Jvejx)oehican,  301  '       ' 

;:t'H;oS^:!-,«-tspi..i...., 

K!-:;.Sror;^r'';?^'-'-'^«^ 

.i.em.  303  ' '"''•'^^^"""J'  amongst 
I -s,  the  game  of,  of  tneCree  Indians, 
K-iVIr.,  his  copper  mines  at  A  Iten 

I  "''*  Anfan-(ic  voyarrcs  4,si 

»;;^|>>;r^o,  the,  ofthe  treeless  zone    7 
^^^^Mceans.   immense  numbers  nf 
|-i>ceoastofareei,laud,Tl         ^^'  ""    , 

M  M 


1   D^'^JIinW;';!"  T^'""^''''''.  303 

rnrn    m'  ^^''•'  ''"*  "''''""t  of  Mount 

''"-i-'pnisaiiJiTjr^"'''^^'^-'- 

-j'-if  toKil::';;;:^^^^^ 

"-•th..|!|vi^;S^';f  y"'«-nceof,ho 
_thet,.m,;.rature;7,^"'^''•'•^'*^'^^^ 
-  ^^-'-u    Cabofs   discoy.,^   ,^ 

I  ""Si.  •:;;:::';;;;  ^"'  ^^  ""■•  ''3-  the 

I    Dease    i*..*,...  w 

I  j^  <-p..iiti;;;.  iir''""  '"^  '''"••  ^^••'■"e 

I>«'er    r,.,l   rA*         ■''■'•'■■iiit  of,  4r,H 

'-a:::.^:;;;:::;/^^-- habitat 

-•;^  o|_^^^\-ogel«ang  and    Treurenb.rg 
J;:'i"^T'i:''rJ"frendofthe   36" 

211  *'    ^'Lnrijijr ,,,  ,stra,(_  210, 

};<'|<"lation.  South.  4.)6 

rr;i,."!;;;'»"''™'>"»'"n".ifr,.„,h. 

~  Ii'eliindic,  fJ3 

~"  ^'26?'^ '^^  ""T-Plo  of  KoIyn,.k, 

'^4rS^:l;i"    ^'"^    -^    c,og- 
-•heE.,uimS^'!S7''"«^'^^« 

~"ra;r^'2V-''^"""''"---kthe 


530 


INDEX. 


DOG 

Dog,  description  of  tho  dogs  and  dog- 
kIchIkos  of  the  Esquimiiux,  330 

—  Dr.    Kiiao'8  Newfoundland  and  Es- 

((uiniaux  dogs,  42G 

—  epidemic    amongst    tho  Esquimaux 

dogs,  435 
Dolgorouky,  Prince,  his  exile  to  Siberia, 

22U 
Dolphin,  white,  or  beluga,  of  Novaya 

Zemlya,  153 

—  Grceuland  fishery  of  the,  457 
Dolphins  of  the  polar  sens,  42,  475,  476 

—  the  beluga,  or  white  dolphin,  42 

—  the  black  dolphin,  '  ca'ing '  whale,  or 

grind,  43 

—  the  ore,  or  grampus,  44 

—  of  Spitzbergon,  1 30 

Drake,  Sir  Francis,  his  voyage  through 

the  Strait  of  Magellan,  498,  499 
Drifanda  Foss,  an  Icelantlic  cascade,  103 
Drift-ice,  28 
Droutheim,  the  red-deer  near,  24 

—  description  of,  113 

Ducks,    /ild,  of  the  Arctic  regions,  6 

—  their    migrations    to   and  from    the 

north,  26 

—  of  Iceland,  64,  67 
Dudinka,  Gastrin's  visit  to,  184 
Dungeness,  Point,  491 

Durfoorth,  his  voyage  and  death,  378, 379 
D'Urvillo,    Dumont,  his  discoveries  in 

the  Antarctic  ocean,  480 
Dutch,  their  expeditions  to  discover  an 

arctic  passage  to  India,  363 


EAG-LE,  tho  sea  {HaVuntus  albkVIa), 
of  the  north,  28 

—  his  food,  28 

—  white-tailed  sea-eagle  of  Iceland,  68 

—  value  of  tho  skins  of  the,  68 

—  the  sea-eagle  of  the  coast  of  Norwav, 

114 

—  in  tho  Tundra  in  summer,  5 
Egede,  Ilaus,  his  voyage  to  Greenland, 

451 
Egg-viire  of  the  coast  of  Norway,  1 1  i 
Egilson,  Olaf,  tho  Westmann  clergyman, 

his  slavery  in  Algiers,  108 
Eider  duck,  its  migrations  to  and  from 

tho  north,  26 

—  of  leoLmd,  64,  72 

—  brooding  of,  65 

—  Mr.    Slioph  -rd's  visit  to  one   of  its 
head-quarters,  65 

Elder,  tlie,  in  tho  Arctic  regions,  8 
Elephant,  sea-,  of  the  Antarctic  ocean, 

476,  489 
Elk,  or  moose  doer,  of  the  forests  of  the 

north,  22,  28 

—  Caesar's  account  of  it,  23 

—  its  food  and  present  habitat,  23 


Elk,  its  mode  of  defending  itself,  2.3 
Enara,  Lake  of,  the  fisher  Lapps  of,  1 70 

—  description  of  the,  173 
Enderby  Land,  discovery  of,  480 
English  pirates,  ravages  of,  in  Iceland,  80 
Erebus,  mount,  eruption  of,  482 

Eric  the  Red,  his  visit  to  Greenland,  450 
Ermine  {Mustela  ermined),  beauty  and 
importance  of  the  fur  of  the,  220 

—  those  of  the  Hudson's  Hay  Territory, 

352 
Esk  volcano,  139 
Esquimaux,  one  watching  a  seal  hole,  31 7 

—  their  wide  extension,  317 

—  their  own  name  of  Inuit,  318 

—  character  of  the  regions  they  inhabit, 

318 

—  their  physical  character,  habits,  aiui 

manners,  318,  319 

—  women,  319 

—  their  dress  and  snow  huts,  320 

—  their  boat,  tho  Kiiyak  or  baidar,  322 

—  their  weapons,  and  fishing  ami  iiunt- 

ing  implements,  323 

—  enmity  between  them  and  the  Red 

Indians,  325 

—  their  chase  of  the  reindeer,  and  binl- 

catching,  325 

—  their  whale  and  seal  hunts,  325,  3'2(j 

—  their  '  keepkuttuk,'  327 

—  tlieir  bear  and  walrus  hunts,  327-329 

—  their  dogs  and  dog-sledges.  331 

—  their  games  and  sports,  332 

—  constitution  of  Ksquimauxsoi'iety,333 

—  their  angekoks,  or  priests,  333 

—  thoir  moral  character,  self-reliain'o, 

and  intelligence,  334 

—  their  maps,  and  predilection  for  com- 

mercial pursuits,  335 

—  their  voriicity,  and  seasons  of  aliuii- 

daneo  and  distress,  330,  337 

—  their  depots  of  food.  337 

—  their  wars  with  llio  Kutchin  Indiansl 

373 

—  their  attack  of  Franklin's  bonts.  4i»3l 

—  their  hunting  expeditions   witii  D:'. 

Kane's  party,  431 

—  their  ravages  on  tho  Greenland  co;istJ 

451 

Europe,  treeless  zone  of,  4-8 
Evil    Spirit  of  the  woods  of  lln'  Lip' 

landers,  157 
Exiles,  Siberian,  218,  219 
— •  annual  number  of,  221 
I'^yjafialia,  eruption  of,  in  1S21,  83 
Eystein,  King,  his  bonovolence,  IKi 


J^AEROE  Islands,  chaso  of  tho  hhci 
dolphin,  or  'ca'ing'  whalo  in  At 
43 
Falkland  Islands,  climate  of,  46i) 


INDEX. 


Ml 


10 
ulaml,  80 

■i 

Laml,  l^^o 

niuty  !Ui*l 

Territory, 


318 


s,  320 

.  \,a-uUr.  3'22 

ig  iiud  liunl- 

and  tbc  R«*l 

Lcur,  aui-l  Virtl- 

,nts,  325,  326 

umts,  327-329 
Igus.  »31 


332 


33'.! 


luxsoi'u'ty 

losts,  333 
se\{-relr.iiii'0 

ction  for  wm-  ] 

$3(),  3">7 

i37  ,.       . 

titchinliv^'''"'-' 

i\u-s  boMs   403| 

Itioiis    NVltl*    I'l' 

,4-8 

V^  of  til''  l"'i" 

riS21,S3 
loVoucc,  U6 


«o  of  the  blW 
whalo  in  >fl« 

te  of.  'l'^''* 


FAM 

Famine,  Port,  rich  vegetation  of,  492, 

493,  409 
Festuca  of  the  Arctic  regions,  6 
Finbfi'k  whales  of  Spitzbor^jon,  130 
iMiichcs  in  the  Tundra  in  summer,  .5 
Finmark,    trade   and   fisheries    of  the 

coast  of  1 20 
Finnur    Johnson,    the    Icelander,    his 

'  Ecclesiastical  History  of  Iceland,'  85 
Fir,  different  species  of,  in  Kuropo,  Asia, 

and  America,  8 
Fish,  and  fishing  season  of  Iceland,  69 

—  abundance  of  fish  in  Kamtscliatka, 

290 

—  of  Newfoundland,  444 

—  of  Greenland,  4r)4 

Fish  river,  Great,  Back's  discovery  of, 
408 

Fisher  Lapps,  account  of  the,  170 

Fiskcrnasset,  cod-fishery  of,  458 

Fitzroy,  Captain,  his  surveys  of  Pata- 
gonia and  Tierra  del  Fuego.  500 

Fjiill  Lappars,  or  Mountain  Lapps,  ac- 
count of  the,  159 

Flatoy,  eider  ducks  of,  G4 

Flat  fish,  abundance  of,  on  the  coasts  of 
Iceland.  70 

Floe  of  ice,  28 

Fioki.  the  Viking,  his  visit  to  Iceland,  74 

Flora  of  Spitzbergeu.  128 

Flowers  of  the  Arctic  regions,  6 

—  of  the  island  of  .St.  Lawrence,  309 

—  of  Taimurland,  250 

—  of  Unalaschka,  308 

Fogs  of  the  Arctic  seas  in  summer,  36 

—  near  the  island  of  St.  Lawnnce,  309 

—  off  Newfoundland,  446 

Food,  amount  of,  required  by  man  in 

the  Arctic  regions,  13 
Forest  regions,  Arctic,  4 

—  extent  of  the.  8 

—  character  of  the  trees  of  the,  8 

—  distinctive  character  of  the  forests,  9 

—  characters   of  the   Arctic  fure^ts  of 

the  Miocene  ))eriod.  13.  14 

—  legions  of  gnats  in  the.  10 

—  ciiunges  being  efiectcd  by  the  agency 
of  man,  1(» 

Forests,  the,  the  headquarters  of  many  of 
ilie  Arctic  faun;i.  25 

—  more    in   than   uhorc   the  earth    in 
Novaya  Zemlya,  150 

—  of  Newfoundland.  440 
iriTct-me-not  found  in  Novaya  Zemlya, 
l.)0 

llorster,  Captain,  his  expedition  to  the 

Aiuarctic  sea,  KiS 
|f"^<ils,  Arctic,  in  New  Silxria.  217 
I  t'oulke.  J*ort,  Dr.  Hayes's  winter  at,  43 1 
IFi.x,   the   Arctic   ((\tnis    lai/opus),   its 

mode  of    protecting  itself    fixjin   the 

most  intense  cold,  25 


ruE 

Fox,  the  Arctic,  its  food  and  enemies,  25 

—  of  Spitzbergen,  129,  153 

—  in  Novaya  Zemlya,  151 

—  found  in  Taimurland.  251 

—  of  Newfoundland,  442 

Fox,  black,  of  Siberia,  value  of  the  fur 

of  the.  227 
Fox,  the    Hnizilian   (Cmu.s  A^nrce),  of 

Patacoiiia,  506 
Fox,  red  (  Viilprs  fu/riis),  the.  227,  353 

—  value  of  the  fur  of  the,  353 
Fox,   the  silvery.  289 

Fox  Islands,  discovery  of  the,  215 
France,  right  of  the  people  of,  to  fish  on 

the  banks  of  NewfouiKlland,  444 
Franklin.  Lieut,  (afterwards  Sir  John), 

his  first  Arctic  voyage.  302 

—  his  first  land  journey,  395 

—  his  second  land  journey  to  the  shores 
of  the  polar  sea,  399 

—  loss  of  his  first  wife,  400 

—  his  last  voyage,  UO 

—  searching  expeflitions  sent  for  him, 

410 

—  his  fate  and  that  of  his  companions, 

418-421 
Franklin  i.sland,  discovery  of,  482 
Fraser  river,  voyage  of  Mackenzie  down 

the,  344 
Frederic  II.,  King  of  Denmark,  his  ex- 

pediti<jn  to  Greenland,  451 
Frederick  IV.,  King  of,  his  foundation 

of  the  Finmark  missinn.  155 
Friedrich.  the  .Saxon  bishop,  introduces 

Christianity  into  Iceland,  77 
Frifillaria    Sarrana,    used    as    food    in 

Kamtschatka,  294 
Frobisher,    Martin,   his  endcavotirs  to 

discover  an  Arctic  passjigo  to  India, 

380 

—  his  subsequent  career,  381 
Froward,  Cape,  scenery  of,  492 
Fruits  of  the  .Arctic  re.;ions.  ,S 
Fuego,  Tierra  dc-1,  climate  of,  409 

—  origin  of  the  name,  498 

—  Captain  Fitzroy's  survey  of,  500 

—  account  of  the  Fuegians.  515 

—  degr.adation  of    the   Fuegians,    515, 

61(1 

—  their  powers  as  mimics,  517 

—  their  notions  of  trade.  518 

—  causes  of  their  low  state  of  civiliza- 

tion, 518 

—  their  food,  519 

—  their  dress,  huts,  arms,  and    orna- 

ments. 519,  520 

—  their  cannibalism,  521 

—  their  language,  521 

—  Captain    Fitzroy's    three    Fuegians, 

521,  522 

—  missionary  labours,  523 

—  Captain  Gardiner,  523 


M  M  2 


flS2 


INDEX. 


FUB 

FhpI,  kinds  of,  used  in  Icolnnd,  72 
I'ulnmr,  dif*ttinpp  north  at  which  it  hfts 

hocn  seen,  19 
Fur,  account  of  tlio  HiisHJan  Fur  Com- 
pany, and  its  opiratioiis,  UK),  311 

—  acfount  of  tin-  fur  Iradf  of  tht;  Ilud- 

sou'h  Bay  Company,  338  >t  srq. 

—  trade  in,  at  the  fairof  Olxlorwii,  '201, 

202 

—  of  Siberia,  223,  224 

—  importance  of  tho  trade  in,  229 

—  of  tlio  Tchuktclii,  300 


GABRIEL  CHANNEL,  williwaws  of, 
479 
Gadflirs  which  attack  tho  reindeer,  22 
Galietis  vittata,  the,  of  I'ata^oiiia,  305 
Gambling  of  the  Cree  Indians,  361 
Gardar,    tho    northern    pirate,    his   tho 

first  eiri'umnavigat  ion  of  Iceland,  74 
Gardar's  iiolni,  or  Gadar's  Island,  Ice- 
land so  eaUcd,  74 
Gardiner.  Captain,  his  mission  toFuegia 

and  melancholy  end,  o'J3 
Gawrilow,  produce  of  the  gold  mine  of, 

237 
Geese,  wild,  of  tho  Arctic  regions,  5 
Geese,  snow,  its  migrations  to  ami  from 

tho  north,  26 
Geeso  of  Iceland,  64 
George,  St.,  climate  of  the  island  of,  308 

—  sea-lions  and  guillemots  of,  309 
Georgia,  South,  discovery  of,  469 
Germany,  the  oik  or  moose-deer  of,  in 

the  time  of  Ca-sar,  23 
Geyser,  the  great,  description  of  the,  54 
Gheritz,  Dirck,  his  discovery  of  the  Now 

Shetland  Islands,  467 
Gilbert,  Sir  Ilumplirey,  takes  possession 

of  Newfoundland,  444 
Ginkloti,  or  children's  disease,  in  the 

Westinann  Islands,  107 
Gissnr,  his  work  on  his  voy.iges  to  tho 

East,  79 

—  the    Icelander,    his     learning    and 

travels,  85 
Gjas,  or  chasms,  in  Iceland,  57 
Glacier,  Humboldt,  423-427 

—  the  great  glacier  in  the  Uulf  of  Penas, 

470 

—  dimensions  of  tho  enormous  glaciers 

of  the  polar  regions,  32 

—  those  of  Magdalena  Bay,  126 
ice  cliffs  and  avalanches  of  the, 

127 

—  of  the  Beerenberg  mountain,  139 
Glottoff,  Stephen,  his  discovery  of  Kad- 

iak,  215 
Gloves,  reindeer,  of  Trjrnea,  21 
Glntton,    or  wolverine,   strength   and 

fierceness  of  the,  21 


Glutton,  its  attack  of  the  reindeer,  2 1 ,  22 

—  its  voracity.  22 

—  the  northern,  or  wolverine,  170 

—  found  in  Taimurland,  251 

—  those  of  North  America,  351 

—  value  and  uses  of  the  fur  of  the,  351 
Gnats,    legions  of,    in  the  forests  and 

swamps,  10 
Goda-foss,  tho,  an  Icelandic  cascade,  5i) 
Gold  diggings  of  Eastern  Siberia,  '?.T.\ 

—  i'i>scription  of  the  gold  fields,  230 
Gomez,  his  voyages  of  discover}-,  378 
Goose,  Ixan  (Anserseyttum),  of  Novaya 

Zemlya,  153 
Goose,   Brent,    its    migrations   to  and 
from  the  north,  20,  108 

—  its  rapid  flight,  27 
Goose,  snow,  401 

Graliah,  (Japtaiu,  his  exiiloralions  of  tlio 

coast  of  Greenland,  455 
Graham  Land,  discovery  of,  480 
Grampus,  or  ore  {Ihlphiniis  orca),  dc- 

scription  of  the.  44,  49 

—  his  ferocity  and  mode  of  ploughing 

the  seas,  44 

—  off  Novaya  Zemlya,  153 

—  of  the  Antarctic  ocean,  475 

—  conflict  of  one  with  a  whale,  475 
Grasses,  tufted,  of  the  Arctic  regions,  G 

—  of  the  treeless  zone,  7 

—  paramount  importance  of  the  grasses 

in  Iceland,  62 

—  of  Taimurland,  250, 
Greenland,  vast  ice-fields  of,  10 

—  proofs  of  a  former  milder  climate  in, 

13 

—  enormous  dimensions  of  the  glaciers 

of,  32 

—  the  Greenland  whale,  41 

—  transparency  of   the    water  on  the 

coast  of,  41 

—  abundance  of  animal  life  in  the  seas 

of,  41 

—  walruses  of  the  coasts  of  the  north 

of,  46 

—  Kane's    sledge   journey   along   tho 

coast  of,  426 

—  portraits  of  natives  of,  449 

—  unknown  extent  of,  449 

—  ancient  Scandinavian  colonists  of,  t'iO 

—  the  name  of  Greenland  given  to  it, 

450 

—  introduction  of  Christianity,  4^'0 

—  decline  and  fall  of  the  country,  4dl 

—  subsequent  explorations  of,  451 

—  Hans  Egede,  the  pastor,  his  voyage j 

to  Greenland,  452 

—  foundation  of  Godthanb,  453 

—  arrival  of  Herrenhuth  missionarii's,j 

453 

—  explorations  of  the  coast,  454 

—  present  Danish  settlements,  45o 


INDEX. 


53S 


T,2l,22 
170 

the,  ^'^\ 
•L'Sls  anil 

isciulc.  -yi 


•?:i'.\ 


Is,  'I'M) 
,ry,  :»7» 
ut  NiAMva 

.19     to    iUul 


tions  of  lli<i 

480 

s  orcd),  i\''- 

,f  plougliing 

17'> 

hulc,  47.) 
tic  rt'gi"'"*''  " 

of  the  grasses 

)f,  10 

[or  climatr  in. 

If  thp  glaciers 

ft-ater  on  tl\o 
Ife  in  the  seas 
of  the  iwrtli 
y   along   the 

I449 

llonistsof.^'W' 
ll  given  to  it, 

Uity,t^'\ 
L'ountry,  -tJ^ 
Is  of,  4ol 

ur,  his  voyage  1 

I  iiiissiona"^*'! 

bt,  4o4__ 
Ipnts,  4oo 


ORE 

Oroonlanfl,  soiuity  population  of,  4.56 

—  njoilo  of  lilV  of  the  pioplo  of,   loG, 

457,  460 

—  fisheries  of,  458 

—  piiiirness  of  tlie  land,  459 

—  qimntifies  of  drift-wood  at,  460 

—  minerals  of,  460 

—  Christianity  ainimgst  them,  460 

—  climate,  mountains,  and   fjords   of, 

460,  461 

—  ice-eaves  of  the  coast,  461 
Greenlanders,   their  discovery  of,  and 

colonies  in,  America,  377 

—  destnu'tion  of  tlieir  colonies,  377 
Greiffenfeld,  his  imprisonment  in  Munk- 

holm,  113 
Grinds,  Srr  Dolphins,  black 
Grinnel  Land,  vegetation  of,  6 

—  Dr.  Hayes's  discoveries  in.  434-437 
tiuanaco,  the,  of  Patagonia.  oOo,  ,')14 
Guano,  circumstances  which  favour  the 

deposit  of.  604.  .OO/J 
Guillemot,  the  black,  274 

—  on  the  I'ribilow  Islands,  309 
Gulf-stream,  influence  of,  on   the  south 

and  west  coasts  of  Iceland,  60 

—  and  on  the  climjite  of  Norway,  1 10 
Gull,  Ross's,  distance  north  at  which  it 

has  been  seen,  49 
Gull,  ivory,  in  Taimurlnnd,  261 
Gustavus  I.,  Kin!»  of  Sweden,  his  kind 

treatment  of  the  Lapps,  166 
Gustavus  Adolphus,  his  foundation  of  a 

school  for  tho  Ltipps,  156 


HADDOCKS,  abundance  of,    on  the 
coasts  of  Iceland,  70 
Hakon,  King  of  Norway,  his  annexation 

of  Iceland,  80 
Hall,  James,  his  vov.igc  to  Greenland, 

461 
Uamnierfest,  description   of   tlie   town 

of,  119 
-traffic  of,  119.  TiO 

—  the  people  of,  120 

—  cargoes  of  walruses  and  seals  brought 

from  Spitzbergen,  136 
Hare,  tho  fur  of  tho,  of  Siberia,  228 
Hare,  ice  {/jcpus  f//aci(i/iit),  305,  363 

—  found  in  Taimurland,  251 

Hare  Indians,  hunting  grounds  of  the, 
364 

—  their  women,  366 

Harold  Haarfager,  or  the  Fair-haired, 
his  establishment  of  an  absolute  mon- 
archy in  Norway,  76 

—  exodus  caused  by  his  tyrar.ny,  76 
Harp-seal  of  the  polar  seas,  44 
Hatlierton,  Cape,  discovery  of,  424 
Haven,  Lieut.  De,  his  search  for  Frank- 
lin. 411,  412 


II  I'D 

Hawks  in  the  Tumlia,  in  sunmer,  5 
Hayes,    Dr.,    his   sle(ly:c    journey   over 
Kennedy  Channel,  428 

—  his  .\rctie  voyage  in  1860,  ■134-437 

—  his  opinion  as  to  wiiat  may  be  done 

in  the  Arctic  regicjiis,  437 
Hecia,  eruptions  of,  since  tho  coloniza- 
tion of  Icohind,  81,  83 
'  Ilcda  '  and  'Fury'  Straits,  discovery 

of,  398 
Ileemskerk,    his  vovages  of  discovorv, 

38 1 
Heiiicsiin,   ^logens,  the   '  sea-cock.'  his 

voya;:e  towards  (ireeiiland.  161 
He|)l)urn,  .lohu,  tlie  sailor,  his  overland 

journey,  396 
Herald  Island,  disc(Aery  of,  416 
Herdu-breid,  view  of,  73 
Heimaey,  or  Home  Ishtnd,  description 

of,  1U6 
Herring,    the    fisiiery   of    the   coast    of 

Norway,  116 

—  food  for  the  ron]ual,or  fin-whales,  42 

—  abundance  of  the,  on  tho  coast.s  of 
Icelainl,  70 

Hespiris,   the,  on    klie   Mary  Minturn 

river,  6 
Hddriiigen,  agriculture  of,  113 
Hobson.  Lieut.,  his  search  for  Franklin, 

419,  421 
Holme,  tlie,  of  Norway,  113 
Hood,  Robert,  his  Arctic  journey,  395 

—  murdered,  396 

Horn,  Cajie,  discovery  of  the  passage 

round,  499 
Horse,  the,  in  Iceland,  62,  63 

—  of  the  .lakuts,  261,  266,  267 
Hudson,  Ilenrv,  visi.'  of.  to  Spitzbergen, 

131  ' 

—  his  the  first  attempt  to   sail  across 

the  Nortl)  Pole,  388 

—  his   subseipient    voyages    and     dis- 

coveries, 388 

—  his  melancholy  end,  389,  390 
Hudson's  Kay,  barren  lands  of,  7 

—  characters  of  tlie  conifera;  of,  8 

—  walruses  of  the  coasts  of,  46 

—  discovery  of,  3.S9 

Hudson's  Bay  Conijiaiiv,  account  of  the 
fur  tr.idoof  the,  338 

—  tlie  c)ld  courciir  des    bois   and    tho 

modem  voyngeur,  338,  339 

—  history  of  the  Company,  342 

—  formation  of  a  rival  Conipany,  and 

subsequent  amalgamation   of  tho 
two,  344-346 

—  palmy  days  of  the  CompHny,  346 

—  its  reconstruction  in  1863,  346 

—  its  trading  posts,  and  their  manage- 

ment, 347 

—  its  eflbrts  to  civilize  tho  native  tribes, 

348 


534 


INDEX. 


HUD 

Hudson's  Bay  Company,  the  standard  of 
exchange,  tho  beaver-skin,  348 

—  extent  of  the  fur  trade,  349 

—  aciount  of  tlie  fur-l>earing  animals 

of  the  Territory,  ;J4U 
Hudson  river,  discovery  of  tlie,  388 
Hudsou'8    Straits,    Sebastian     Cabot's 

discovery  of,  378 
Humboldt  Glacier,  the  Great,  32,  423 

—  Kano's  descrii>ti(>ii  of  tlm,  127 
Humming-bird    on    tlio    peninsula    of 

Aljaska,  1507 

—  in  Newfoundland,  442 

—  of  Patagonia,  AdS 

Huts  cf  the  Ksijuiinanx,  322 

—  of  tiio  Icelanders,  HI 

—  Uver-fjall,  view  of,  103 
Hvalii,  island  of,  120 
Hvita  lake,  in  Iceland,  fid 
Hvita  river,  in  Iceland,  oiJ 

Ice,  vast  tii'Ms  of,  in  tiio  jilatciius  of 
Spitzbergcn,  Greenlainl,  and  Novaya 
Zemlya,  10 

—  floating  masses  of,  in  the  poliir  seas, 

29,  30 

—  enormous  extent   of  tlie  j)i)hir  gla- 

ciei's,  32 

—  causes  whieh  jirevcnt  tiio  accumula- 

tion of  polar  ice,  37,  38 

—  ice  a  bad  conductor  of  heat,  39 

—  ice-fields  of  Iicland,  51 

—  glaciers,  ice-diils,  and  avalanches  of 

Spitzbergen,  127 

—  impediments    otfered    liy    the    lium- 

mocks  to  travellers  on  tlic  polar 
sea,  270 

—  icebergs  on  the  banks  of  Newfound- 

land, 439 

—  iceltergs  of  the  Antnrctic  sea,  407,468 

—  ice-caves  of  Greenland,   Ifil 

—  the  great  ice-baiu-ier  of  the  Antiirctic 

ocean,  483 

—  pack-ice  of  the  Antarctic  Ocean,  485 
Icebergs,  30 

—  forms  and  size  of,  31,  32 

—  origin  of,  31 

—  localities  in  which  most  of  tlie  ice- 

bergs of  the  North  Atlantic  are 
formed,  31 

—  Dr.  Hayes's  description  of    icebergs 

in  a  midnight  sun,  33 

—  how  distinguished  at  uiglit  and   in 

fogs,  34 

—  dangers  of  collisions  with,  34 

—  protection  to  ships  affonled  by,  34 

—  dangers  of  anchoring  to,  34,  35 

—  '  calving '  of  icebergs,  35 

—  crumbling  of  icebergs,  35 
Ice-blink,  description  of  the  plienomenon 

of,  35 

—  its  advantages   to  the  Arctic  navi- 

gator, 35,  36 


ICE 

Ice-fields,  30 

—  hummocks  on,  30 

—  collision  of  ice-fields,  31 

—  dangers  caused  by,  to  sliips,  31 
Ice-grotto  of  Surts-liellir,  59 
Iceland,  volcanic  origin  of,  50 

—  the  country  in  winter  and  in  summer, 

51  &  GI 

—  sterile  portion^^  of  the  island,  61 

—  its  immense  ice-fields.  51 

—  its  lava  streams,  51,  58 

—  the  burning  mountains  of  Krisnvick. 52 

—  the  mud  cauldrons  and  hot  springs,  M 
the  great  Cieyser,  54 

tlie  Sfrnkkr,  o.'i 

crystal  pools,  50 

—  the  Almannagja,  5fi,  57 

—  theSiirts-hellir,  orcavi  snf  Surtiir.  'iS 

—  rivers  and  cascades  of,  59 

—  lakes,  or  vatns,  00 

—  iiilluenee  of  the  ocean  currents  on  tlm 

I'limate,  ()0 

—  mean  annual  temperature,  Gl 

—  absence  <)(  trees  in,  (il 

—  vegetaticm  and  condition  of  agric\il- 

ture.  G2 

—  indigenous  land  (juadriipeds,  G2 

—  cattle  of  the  Icelandtrs,  G2 
- —  beveriigcs,  G2 

—  mode  of  shearing  slii'ep,  03 

—  characteristics  and  number  of  hors<'s, 

63 

—  the  reindeer,  04 

—  the  polar  bear,  01 

—  the  eider  duck.  04,  72 

—  the  giant-ank,  08,  09 

—  Icelandic   fish    and    fishing  scas'iii 

C9-71 

—  hospitality  of  tlie  people,  70 

• —  minerals  of  the  country,  71,  72 

—  fuel  used  by  the  Icelanders,  72 

—  history  of  Iceland,  73 

Naddodr's  discovery  <jf    the   L'l; 

Land,  73 
—  wliieh  he  named  .Snowland,  "I 

—  —  circumnavigated    1)V    the    jiiiiite 

(iadar,     and     called     by    him 

(iadar's  holm,  74 
visited  by  the  viking  Floki,  ami 

called  by  him  Iceland,  74 
foundiifion  of   Keykjavik  by  I:i- 

golfr  and  Leif,  75 

—  • —  exodus  from  Norway  to  Iceland.  IC) 
intro<luction    of    the    Norwegian 

language  and  customs,  70 

code  of  laws  of  UtHiot  the  AVisc.  ?> 

the  ancient  Althing  iitThingvallit, 

70,  77  _ 

introduction  of  Christianity  into 

the  island,  77 
the  golden  age  of  Icelandic  litera- 
ture, 79 


INDEX. 


235 


junimcr, 
1.61 

Surtur.  'i** 

■ents  on  tlio 
.  Gl 

(if  agricul- 

jt'ds,  62 
62 

GH 


ling  soiis' 

n 

71.-2 
liTs,  72 

•  of    tho 

I.'e 

j^nowliUi 
k-   till-   1 
ed    iiy 

1,71 

irivte 

liiiii 

L  Vloki,  and 
|uu\,  7-t 
,;ivik  I'v  111- 

ItoIcfbiiJ''"' 

Norwogiaa 


btns,  I 


G 


ItthcAVi^o.j" 
ItTliing^"-*""' 

libtuinity  in'" 
?landie  Ut'W 


I0« 

Iceland,  liistory   of,  uiinrxntion  of  the 

island  to  Norway,  K(t 

ith  subsequent niinforHinos,  80,81 

— volcanic  crujitionH,  81 

—  miHerv  eaused  by  the  curse  of  mono- 

poly, 8S 
■ —  hope  for  th(t  future  of  the  islanders,  84 

—  account  of    the   Icolaudors  of    the 

present  day,  8.") 

Skalkott,    the  former  capital  of 

the  island,  85 

the  present  capital,  Reykiavik,  87 

and  Ntate  of  trade  in  lcelan<i,  88 

—  —  —  the  merchant  and  the  peasant, 

88,  8y 

temperate  habits  of  the  people,  89 

condition  of  a^'riculture,  'JO 

—  —  a  liarvest  home,  !)1 
winter  life,  'Jl,  S)G 

—  —  huts  of  the  Icelanders,  91 

—  —  churches,  92 

cler^'ymen    all   blacksmiths,    89, 

nutf ;  93 

their  poverty,  9;j-9.') 

■ tho  Iceland  poet,  Jon  Thorlakson, 

94 

—  —  education     of     the     clergy    and 

children,  95,  9G 

industry  and  thirst  for  knowledge 

of  the  i)eople,  90 

—  —  their  langiiage,  97 

the  library  of  Hiykjavik,  97 

—  the  Icelandic  J>iteriiry  Society,  98 

—  Icelandic  newspapers,  98 

—  healtli  of  the  people,  98 

—  difficult  its  and  expense  of  travelling, 

99-101 
Iceland  moss,  oaten  and  exported  by  tho 
Icelanders,  62 

—  food  for  the  deer  of  Spitzbergen,  129 

—  ill  the  treeless  zone,  7 
Llols  of  the  Samojedes,  188 
L'lonlik,  island  of,  398 

Iliirliuk,  the  Esquimaux,  her  intelli- 
(.'ince  and  passion  for  music,  398 

Indians  lied,  their  enmity  with  the 
Ksipimaux,  325 

—  tliiir  decimation   by  smallpox   and 
drunkenness,  325 

l-cflbrts  of  the  Hudson's  liay  Com- 
pany to  civilize  thom,  348 
l^tlie  Beaver-skin,  their    standard   of 

exchange  with  the  Company,  348 
llaslifiold.     Captain,     his     search     for 

I'ranklin,  414 

•his  discoveries,  424 
Riijfr,  tho  Norwegian  yarl,  his  visit  to 

lieUind,  and  foundation  of  Reykjavik, 

io 

SMcts  of  Taimurland,  251 

■sh  colonists  on  the  Westmann  Island, 

104 


JAK 

Irkutsk,  extreme  cold  of,  223 

—  \VningeirM  visit  to,  260 

—  summer  tlowers  of,  260 
Iron-niines  near  Drontheim,  113 
Isabella,  Cajie,  cliscovery  of,  424 
Ishemsk,  Castren's  visit  to,  18(( 

—  the  Isprawnik  of,  and  his  wife,   180, 

183 
Islanils  within  the  Arctic  circle,  barren 

grounds  of  the,  4 
Isleif,  the  oldest  chronicler  of  the  north, 

85 
Issakovv.    of  Kern,    roimds    the   nortli- 

easlirn  extremity  of  Novava  /enilva, 

145 
Itiilmi'iies,  cruelty  of  their  conquerors, 

the  Kus>^ians,  21 1 
Ivan    J.   Wasiljewilseh.    lirst    C/.ar    of 

Russia,  his  defeat  of  the  Tartars,  203, 

204 

—  s)d)(lues  the  Cireat  Novgorod,  20 1 

—  becomes  head  of  the  (ireek  orthodox 

Church  and  the  first  Czar,  204 

—  Ch.'iiu'ellor'b  visit  to  him  at  Moscow, 

379 
Ivan  11.  Wasiljewitsch,  his  conquest  of 
Kasan,  204 

—  his  surname  of  tlie  Terrible,  204 
Ivorv,    fossil,    in    the    islands    of   New 

Siberia,  215,  216 
Iwalo  river,  in  Lajiland,  Gastrin's  jour- 
ney on  the,  172 


J AKOWLEW  family,  238 
—  their  enormous   wealth   in  gold 
mines,  238,  239 
Jakuts,  the,  confirmed   by  the  Czar   in 
their  jwssessionH,  212 

—  their  snares  and  traps,  229 

—  their  energy  and  cunning,  252,  253 

—  their  langiiatre,  origin,  character,  and 

jiei'soii.il  .ippiaraiu'e,  253 

—  their  summer  and  winter  huts,  254 

—  their  horses,  254 

—  their  powers  of  endurance  and  sharp- 

ness of  vision.  255 

—  their  manut'aetiires   and  articles    of 

dress,  256 

—  their  gluttony,  256 

—  the  universal  carriers  to  tho  cast  of 

the  L?na,  257 

—  their  superstitions,  257 

—  their  offerings  of    hoi-sehair    to  tho 

Spirit  of  the  mountains,  258 

—  their  songs,  258 

—  wretcht'd  condition  of  the  river  Ja- 

kuts, 258 
Jakutsk,  mean  temperature  of,  in  sum- 
mer and  winter,  1 1 

—  extreme  cold  of,  223 

—  gloomy  appearance  of  the  town,  260 


r 


6K 


INDEX. 


JAR 

JakiUflc,  tra<ln  of,  260 

Jan  ]M('V«'i),  ilosciiption  of,  1.10 

Jolly,  nia<lc  iVom  flic  lioriiH  hihI  clawsof 

fill'  rtindfCT,  21 
JfUy-fiKli  {Vhiirohrachut  pilriix)  in  tlio 

HIM  f)f  Kiirn,  147 
Jcni.sci  river,  Cusfn'n'H  journoy  to  the, 

IH.'l 
JoniHi'isk,  Cii«fn'irB  visit  to,  185 
- —  the  oslrotr  of,  fiinii<l«'(),  2»ii 
Jerfiilfon     {hilm    (fi/r/a/ro),    Iih    IkwI- 

qujirftrs  in  Iitland,  (iS 
—  former  triidc  in  llic.  (i8 
Jilili(>ani1>a*'i-tjt',  or  Niiin,  tb{>  Mnprt'nio 

Kciiifi  of  lilt-  .<iiiin)ji'ili's,  ISS 
'  Jolm,  Gentleiimii,'  the  Kiigli^h  pirutc, 

IDK 
John's,  .St.,  capitjil  of  New-fouiiilliind,  41.3 
Jokulls,  or  ii'e-niountaiiis  of  icclainl,  ."»(l 
Jukiilsa  i  A.xarfirdi  river,  in  leclaiul,  ;VJ 
JcikulHii  river,  in  Iceland,  o!) 
Jones"  .Sound,  discovery  of  the  ontriince 

to,  nyo 

Jukahire.i,  chief  resource  of  those  of  the 

Aniiij,  2G6 
-—  Jelissoi  Hiisa'.s  residence  among  the, 
20U 


KAUIAK,  Island  of,  di.scovery  of  the, 
21.') 
Kaiak,  island  of,  landing  of  .SteUa  on 

the,  28.3 
'  Kalcw.ila,'   Casfreu's  Swedish  transla- 
tion (tf  the,  174 
Kanit.schafka,  siilytigation    of.    hy  the 

Kussians,  211 
. —  cruelty  of  the  contmerors,  211 

—  iSteller's  scientific  journey  to,  2S2 

—  its  climate  and  fertility,  '2!)(» 

—  abundance  of  fish  in  the  rivers,  291 

—  bird-('alclier.'»  of,  2'Jl 

—  population,  292 

—  niountiiin  chain  and  volcanoes,  292 

—  climate  and  mineral  spriiifrs,  293 
• —  harbours  and  population,  293 

—  healthiness  of  the  people,  204 

—  their  food,  294 

—  their  animals,  295 

—  diameter  of  the  peopK»,  296,  297 
Kane,  Dr..  hi.s  Arctic  voyages,  423 

—  his  account  of    his   first   winter    in 

Rensselaer  Bay,  424 

—  his  description  of  the  ])olar  nitrlit,  425 

—  his    sledge  journev   along  the  coast 

of  Greenland,  426 
I—  his  illness  on  the  vovago  and  recovery, 

427,  428 
~-~  resolves  to  winter  a  second  time  in 

Rensselaer  I5ay,  430 
w-  departure  Jind  return  of  part  of  his 

crew,  430,  431 


KRA 

sufferings    of    his    ^larty, 


Kane,    Pr 
l.!2 

—  abandonment  of  his  ship,  and  bout- 

journey  to  rpernavik,  433 

—  li is  return  to  New  York,  iiud  death, 

431 
Kara   (Sate,   readied  by  .Stephen   Bur- 

rough,  380 
Kara,  .S.a  of,  140 

—  expeditions  to  the,  141 
Ka-aii,  HiiNsian  coiKjuest  of,  20| 
Kellet,  Captain,  his  seurdi  for  Franklin, 

4  IT) 
Kcmlall,     I, it-lit.,    iiis    voyagt-    to    fln- 
Copi)erniiiio  river,  400 

—  hisjiccount  of  Deceptitm  Island.  KiX 
Kcnn.tly,     Williain,     his    search     fur 

I'ranklin,  413 

—  -  his  sl(ila:i-  jnurii'.y  with  Ilellot,  tit 
Kennedy  Channel,    l>r.   ll.-vyen's  sledge 

joiiriiiy  acni>s.   128 

—  his  vt)yage  acri»ss,  435,  436 
Kt-rgut  leii's  l.;tiid,  cliinate  of  4()9 

--  view  of  Christmas  Harbour  in,  174 
Klii|iSMck,  destruction  of  the  eiiiiiii-i- i)t' 

the  Khans  t.f,  204 
King,  ('apiain,  his  survey  of  the  Magel- 
lan Stniits.  5(10 
King  Willi.un's  Island,  etiast  tif,  tracel 

by  Mr.  Thomas  Sim|isoii,  IKt 
Klofa  jtikull,  extent  of  the,  51 
Knight,    .loliii,    his    melancholy   aivii' 
voyage,  387 

—  murtlered  by  the  Esquimaux,  38H 
Koidewt-v,  (.'aptain,  his  ji>urnoy  towanls 

the  Ntirth  Pole,  438 
Kohva,  Castrcn's  visit  to,  180 
Kolyma  river,  inundations  of  the,  2t)(i 
Kolyinsk,    Nishnei,    foundation  of  tli-' 

town  of,  210 

—  WriiiigcU's  visit  to,  261 

—  situation  and  climate  t>f,  261 

—  vegetable  iiiiil  animal  life,  2()3 

—  pipulation  of  the  district,  261 

—  dwellings  of  the  Russian  rc.'-itl«'iii>, 

264 

—  moilt^  of  life  of  the  natives,  2G'> 

—  their  dogs.  265 

—  berry -gathering  in  the  district.  JC 

—  famiiit-  of  the  jieople,  267 

—  Social  parties  at   Kt)lymsk,  267.  '-''' 
Koriaks,  the,  confirmed  by  the  Czar  i 

their  possessions,  212 
Kortjiinoje   Filippowsoje,  Von  MiiMi" 

dorlTs  journey  to,  2 12 
Kostin  .Schar,  visit  of  Von  Baer  to.  HI 

—  storm  ill,  148 
Kiitlugja,  eruptions  of,  since  the  filii 

jiization  of  Iceland,  81,  83 
Krasnojarsk,  Castri^n's  visit  to,  182. 1 

—  extravagance  of  the  gold  aristocnn 

of,  238 


-t'K'i'jallJ 

]  59 
"~  -  their  ( 
~—  their  r 
---  their 
ments, 
"—  tlieir  si 
■  —  natural 

1G3 
—  tlieir  lo 


INDEX. 


537 


s    -jiiirty, 

,uil  tU'iitli. 
ihon  B>ir- 


r  Kriinklin, 

J,,,     to     111'' 

U\iw\.  >'■•'< 
Hfurcli     f'lr 

ivi'rt's  sU'ilge 

.t3« 

of,   »('>'.» 
I.mu'  !"•  '"*  , 
,Ue  eiui'ivi'  "t 

oftheMagt'!- 

,iiHt  of,  triU'e'i 
.n,  nit 

i,u-h..ly   uKU.' 

iniiinx.  '■<><'* 
mriioy  lowaras 

180 
Is  of  the,  -it'-'i 
ilition  "f  ^^''' 

l<\ 

lof.  2(U 

Irav, -iti''^ 

piiin  n'i-ul''i"-'l 


tivos, 


20.') 


le  (listri^'t.  'l'''] 

l-msk. '207-" 
ll.ytlu'  t'-wr'" 

Von  Ml.U'H 

|,n  Baer  to,  Ul 

tiTioe  the  cnl> 

83 
tsitto.lS'i.l' 
Void  ari-stocra; 


KKR 

Kronitzin.  Iuh  (liHovory  of  the  pcnin- 

ftiilii  of  Aljiiska,  ',21.) 
Kr»'(*tio\vos(lwif<|i(in>k,    |>roiluce   of  llio 

^olil  tiiiiic  (if,  2'Mi 
Krisiivik,  lniriiiiiK  iiiomitiiitifl  of,  52 
Ki-oiow,    Kiciiiiimiit,    lns\    off  Noviiya 

/t'liilyn,  141 
Kutcliiii  ImliaiiH,  portniifs  of,  370 

—  tlifir  ilw»'lliii>r-pliii't'.  ."syo 

—  tlnir  i><'I's()iih1  ii|H)i'nruiic<'  and  dross, 

:{7<>.  ;J7i 
■ —  tlii'ir  inoiliuin  of  cxcliiinKf.  371 

—  tliiir  woiiicii  siinl  I'liililnii,  372 

—  tlit'ir  iimu.sciiitMils,  373 

—  tinir  wars  witli  th«;  l',:<(jiiiiniinx.  373 

—  tlu'ir  HUsjiicioiiM  uiul  tiiiioroiih  lives, 

374 

—  tlifir  iiiudo  of  |M)iiiuliiig  till!  nioost^ 

(Ictr,  37  I 

—  tlicir  frt'()ii('nt  distress,  375 

—  tlifir  lints,  375 

Kiitfliutii  Klinn,  his  conquest  of  Silio- 
ria,  2(1.') 

—  dotWtt'd  liv  Yfrniidc  tiic  rohbt-r,  ut 

Tobolsk, ';i(i.")-2(>7 

—  iiis  rt'Vfiige,  208 


LAHHADOH.  harrcn  lands  of,  7 
-  efVfft.  of  tlif  icy  sfas  and  cold 
currents  on  tlie  cliinalt"  of,  7 

—  di.si'overiil  and  colonizod  l)y  Grecn- 

laiidrrs,  377 
I.iiclxiw  Jslaiuls,  disfoverv  of  the,  '_'!.") 
Li^artliot  river,  in  Iceland.  .">!> 
Lakfs,  or  vatns,  of  luflainl.  60 

—  of  Nfwfouiiiiland,  44'J 

Livmbfrt,  M.  (Justave,  his  opinion  as  to 
the  i-oute  to  the  I'olc,  43« 

Lmcaster  .Sonnd,  di'covery  of  the  en- 
trance to,  390 

Lapps,  reinch'er  travelling  of  the,  17 

—  niovinir,  l.')4 
their  history  and  conversion  toC'lu'is- 

tianity,  154.  155 
1  —  poverty  and  .self-deuiul  of  their  clergy, 

1 56 

I—  tlieir  ancient  gods  and  present  super- 
stitions, 156,  157 

I Hvil  ."Spirit  of  the  woods,  157 

I sorcery  ami  witchcraft,  157 

I '-their  personal  appearance,  157 
1-  tlie  l'')allLappars.  or  Mountain  liapps, 
159 

I- their  dwellings,  159 

I' their  reintl(«r  pens,  160 

■  -  their  snnuner  and  winter  onranip- 
nients.  161,  162 
I-—  their  sledges  and  skates,  162 

I natural  beauties  of  their  country, 

163 
|~  —  their  lovo  of  home,  163,  164 


Lajips,  the  Fjall  I^ippars,  their  nnxlo  of 
huntiimthelMarand  the  wolf.  161-166 

the    ueallliy     Lapps,     and     their 

nnxle  of  li\iiig,  liiii.  I(i7 

—  -      their  annual  visits  to  the  fairs,  167 

—  -   tlieir  druiiketirifss,  lti7-16!t 
their  worship  of  Muniinon,  trea- 
sure hoanlinu,  16N 

their   ♦onilness    for   brandy   and 

tobacco,  16,S-170 
their  arteetionale  di'-positioii,  16!) 

—  the  Skogslap|iars,  or   l''orf.st  l^apps, 

169 

—  the  l'"ishfr  Lapps,  170 

Laptew,    Lifiit.   Cluritoii,  his  explora- 
tifHiH  of  the  coasts  of  Taiinurlind,  213 

—  lii>    fX|iloratious  lo  the   fa.st   of  tho 

Lena.  ■_']  I 
Larch,  the,  of  .Siberia,  8 

—  of  the  IliuUon's  Hay  Territory.  8 
Lawi-ence,  ,st.,  climate  and  vegetation  of 

the  island  of,  309 
Lava  streams  of  Jffland,  51,  58 

—  sireains  ot',  thrown  out    by  the  great 

erupt  ion  of. Skajitar  .Kikul,  81-K3 
Laxaa,  or  J^alnioii  river,  aljuminnce  of 

tisli  caught  in  the,  71 
Leif,  the  Nor^vegian  jarl,    his  visit  to 

Iceland,  75 

—  murdered  by  his  Irish  slaves,  75 
Lemming,  its  habitat  and  foo<l,  '25 

—  exairgerations  of  Olaus  Magnus  and 

I'oiitoppidan  respi'cling  the,  '2-'t 

—  its  enemies,  and  accidents  to  which 

it  is  liable,  26 

—  found  in  Taimurland,  251 

—  of  New  Siberia,  1 1 

—  of  Novaya  Zemlya,  151 

Li'ua  river,  ascende<I  by  the  Cossacks, 
209 

—  importance  of  the,  3 

—  barren  irrounds  near  the,  7 

—  Wrangf Us  journey  down  the.  260 
Leprosy,  or  '  liktiira."  of  Icfland,  9S 
Liciuns.  grey,  of  the  '  barren  grounds,'  4 

—  food  for  the  rt'indecr,  1  I 

—  the  Lichen  rinif/ifiriiiiiif,  the  food  of 

the  reindeer.  19 

—  of  Novaya  /emlya.  149 

—  of  the  I'ribilow  Islands,  309 
Liddon,  Lieut.  M.,  his  Arctic  vovages, 

393 
Lindenow,  Gotl.ske,  liis  voyage  toGreen- 

land,  451 
Lion,  sea-  ( Otaria  Ste/icri),  value  of  tlie 

skin  of  the,  316 

—  the  sea-lion  of  the  Antarctic  ocean, 

477 
Lister,  Cape,  discovery  of,  454 
Lithuania,  the  elk  of,  23 
Loaisa,  Garcia  do,  his  voyage  round  the 
globe,  498 


INDEX. 


LOf 

Lufoton  InlnndH,  tli(<,  11') 

—  view  of  \'aatr<T  Hnlli'ii  in  tin',  109 

—  cod-flhliiry  III'  till',  1  l.V- 1 17 
JiiMiiiiin^  olijcctM  ill  the  Ari'tic  rccioiiH,  37 
LoM'likiii,  liic  walrim-liiiiitiT,  liin  V(>_viiy;c 

on  till!  ooiimI  of  Noviiyii  Zcnilyn,  1  1 1 
LostiidiuN,   till'    Ijjip|)    pricHt,   Imh   vi'if- 

(iiiiial  ami  |ii>\rrly,  IM 
Itoucliriix.    Sir  Kiiti'liin  Jiuliiiiis 
I.olli^-l'llilill|>l■  'i'liTc,  ilincovory  of,  480 
I.oviiiiiii'ii,  jiiittiiis  of.  111 
Lowttimrii,  liisvoyajii'  to  (Sifriiluiiil,  ■l'i4 
Liilk"',    Adiniral,     iiis    i'IhIi  iivourH     to 

pi'iiitnilc  along  liio  touHt  of  Novavii 

/.■nilya,  111 
liycliiii.i,  purple,  of  (iif  Arctic  rcL'ioiis,  0 
Lynx.   Caiiaila,   or  piMliii   (l.i/ti.v  (m/ki- 

(Irii.si.s),  ;i;i;t,  ;u;!» 

—  value  of  the  tnrof  llie,  228,3.53 
Lyon,  I'aptain.  liis  iinsncceNsful  voyajie, 

3'JH 


M 


ACKKXZIK,   AlcxMinler,    liis   voy- 
ajiesof  (lisiMAci'V  in  North  America, 
314 
Mackenzie  river,  iniportanci'  of  the,  3 

—  foref*lH  anil  liarreii  lamls  n<ar  tlio,  7 

—  iniliiiiiCL'  of  the  siulherly  winds  on 

the  lcin])crature  of  the  vallcv  of  tlie, 
11 

—  discovery  of  the.  341 
Macsnikow    Nikila,   his   piid    fields   in 

Eastern  Siberia,  231.  23(1,  237 
Mngdaleiia  |{ay,  view  of,  122 

—  dcscrijition  of,  12;') 
Mapllaii,  Strait  of,  4'JO 

—  description  of  the,  I'.H) 

—  entrances  to,  I'JK,  4Stl 

—  opening  into  the  i'acilic,  4!l'") 

—  discovery  of  the  Strait  by  ^lagelliin, 
4i»7 

—  Sir  .1.  Narborongh's  chart,  /iOO 

—  Captains  Jvingand  Fitzroy's  surveys, 

oOO 
Magerii,  island  of,  120 
Magicians  of  the  .Saniojedos,  189-191 
Malewinsk}',  Lieutenant,  his  gold  inino 

of  Olginsk.  23G 
MalslWim,  the,  1 15 
Mammoth,  fossil  remains  of  tho,  in  New 

Siberia,  21 G 
Man,    his   difficulty   in    establishing  a 

footing  in  tho  Arctic  regions,  4 

—  how  he  is  able  to  stand  the  rigours 

of  an  Ari'tic  winter,  12.  13 
Maps  of  the  Ksqnimau.x.  33.') 
Mariinsk.  station  of,  built  by  tho  Kus- 
sians,  210 

—  gold  mine  of.  230 
Marshes  of  Newfoundland,  441 
Marten  Pine  {Maries  a/netum),  the,  352 


MOR 

.Marten  F'ine,  rulueof  the  fur  of  llu',3.)2 
Mary  .Minium  river,  llowirs  of,  0 
.Maliiischkin,   his   sledge  journey  over 

the  |Hilar  sea,  272 
]\IaloMi'hkin  .Scluir,  visits  to,  1  111  17 
iMatlhew,    St.,    island   of,    inliospitublo 

character  of  the,  309 
Matthew's  Straits,  visited  by   HoxniVM- 

slow,  I'achtuHMow,  and  llerr  von  jl.ier, 

111-147 
McClintock,  Lieut,  (iiuw  Sir  Loojxiidi, 

his  search  for  I''ranklin,  415 

—  his  voyage  in  the  '  l-'ox,'  119 

—  and  ili-covery  of  tho  fate  of  l-'ranklin 

and  his  companions,  -120,  421 
McClure,  (,'afitaiii,  his  search  fur  I'rank- 
lin.  41.')-4I7 

—  his  di^c'ivery  of  the  north-west  pas- 

sage, 1 1  ■") 
Mechain,  Jiicut.,  his  search  for  Franklin, 

4 1  .'i 
Mediterranean,  dried    coil-llsh    sent  to 

the.  120 
Medusii".  enormous  numbers  of,  in  ih.' 

polar  world,  4  1 

—  in  the  seas  oil'  iSipitzbergen,  I  2.j 
Melville  I5ay,  eiiorinous  glaciers  of,  32 
Melville  Island,  di>-c()vcry  of,  ,')'.)3 
Meiilschikort'.    I'rince,     liis    exile    ami 

death  in  Siberia,  _'19 

—  his  son  restored  to  the  honours  of 

his  Inaise,  220 
Mercy  i>ay,  discovery  of,  417 
Mercy,  Inirbour  of,  49() 
Merganser,  reil-breasted,  44S 
Middeiidorff,    \'i)n,    his    adventures    in 
Taimurland,  240 

—  his  visit  to  the  Chatang.a  river,  21J 

—  his  jiiurney  down  the  1'aimur  riv.  r 

to  tho  jiolar  sea,  242-24.J 

—  his  return  journey  and  illness,  24  j- 

247 

—  gratitude  of  the  Sainnjodes,  247 

—  his  observations  on  the  climate  iiinl 

natural  productions  of  'J'aiiiitirliuiii, 

248 
Midnight,    silence   of,    in   Spitzlicrjjeii, 

120 
Milk  of  the  reindeer.  19 
Jlinerals  of  L'eland,  71 
Aliuk  (J'isiiH  Amcrlcmius),  the,  363 

—  value  of  the  fur  of  the,  352 
Minto,  Mount.  479 
Misery,  Mount,  1 38 
Mollusca,  small,  of  tho  polar  .seas.  41 
Moonlight  nights  iu  tho  Arctic  rf^'ioii?,! 

U) 
Morse.     See  Walrus. 
Morton,    one  of  Dr.   Kane's  crew,  his 

illness,  428 

—  his  discovery  of  Washington  Lam!,! 

429 


INDEX. 


5.19 


MOg 


NOV 


ie.3.V2 

y    ov.r 
»17 

{(ivniV"t- 
m  r>.ii  r, 

I -J  I 

,r  i'viiiik- 

iMMllklill, 

U    siui  to 
uf,  ill  'li'' 

...  r.'"' 

i.xili;    anil 
honours  of 


IS 
[ventures   i" 

I  v.v.r,  'iri 
"ainiur  riviT 

lll.n  ^S  'il-J- 

I..S.  '2-17 
li.liniiit.'  lUi'l 
I'l'a'unurliiuil 

IsinUljCgcn, 
lth(>,  363 


iMonq\iito<<««)f  NiHlint' Kolynisk,  2.V  202    '    NrwfnuniIIaii(1,  ri^il.t  nf  tht>Frrnch  nnd 


MiiMMH,  (iinjry.  "t'tlif  "Ijurrru  nmui.tU,' -l 

of  Noviivii  Ziiiilvii,  HO 

<)t'tli.«  I'riMlow  UliHi.U,  ;i(i8,  ;j(ll) 
M>i)irawi)'tf,  Count  Nicl.oluM,  hiHiinuexii- 

tion  of  till'  Aniui",  '210 
Mniisc,  llclil.  of  Spit/liirjfrn,  121) 
Mnclniiiior,  tlic  tunjfiis,  u.xrd  us  food  by 

tli(t  Kl.lllt^|^)llttka.l■',  2IH 
Mutl  sprinuH,  lidilin;.',  df  IctIuiii!,  i'}'\ 
Miinii'ii,  Mi.rHhi.l,  liis  (■.xilc  tu  Silnria, 

•J  20 

Lis  rptt.rn  mid  sulisoqiiciif  life,  'i'iO 
.Miuik,  .It  i.s,  Ills  vovii^^cs.  ;t'J(l 
.MMi.kl.iiIni,  castle  ol',   I  \',i 
.Miicdi'rirs,  trcatiMi'iit  uf,  in  Hussia,  221 
Musi'ovy    ( 'iiiiipaiiy,    its   t-iidc  uvdui'M   to 

iliscovora  norlli-fast  passa^'r  to  India, 

;IH(I 
Mi.sk-ox   {(h'ifiiis   vi(i.''cfiii/i'i<),    descrip- 
tion of  the,  21 

its  former  ami  pivsent  liala'tut.  21 
MiiMin.isli,  musk  rat,  or  umlatni  (^/'VAu* 

;ili'  '/licii.i),  '\oi 
I—  villages.  ,i')\ 

1—  modes  of  ealeliiii^  tlie  animal,  .'ioT) 
I  —  value  of  the  fur  of  the,  3.').i 
-  the.  ;i'.l() 

Mu^s-'N  (Jii  tlie  eiiast  of  (li'eriiland,  11 
JMy  Lake,  in  Iceland,  (iO 
Mvvatn,  dueks  of  tiie,  tJ7 


Anierieans  to  fish  oi.  the  Ip^oiks,  II 1 

—  the   |''reneh  town  of  I'iaee.itl.i.  in 

—  the  whole  i-laiul  I'l  did  to   I'lnnland, 
1(1 

—  iniportnnpe  of  the  eod-tl.-lierieM,  Ha 

—  the  jjri'at  hanks,  11.) 

—  acioiml  of  till-  n.iMJe  of  ri>hii.j:,  4  !;> 

—  fcn:>  and  storms.  I  Hi,  1 17 
seal-ratehiui.',   t  17 

Ni'ttsiiaper"  of  leelaiid.  '.18 

Nitzht  of  a  jH-lar  winter,  Kane's*  dem-rip- 

iioi.  of.  ri:> 

Nikola  jew  sk.   station    of,   Imill    I'V   tho 

Hiissians,  'Jlfi 
Noiha,  f;old  diirniuL'-*  on  the,  2.'il 
Norfolk  Hav,  position  and  tur  trade  of, 

:ni 

North-eastern  roi\te  to  Iialia  and  China, 
iSeliaslian  Cahot's  idea  of,  1178 

—  attempts  to  discover  it,  ;!78-!iHO 
Noi'tii    I'ule,    till'    first    alliiiipt   to  sail 

across  the,  IWH 

—  the  )ilan  tirst    suj.'i;esteil   hv  'riioriie, 

—  .*^eoresliy's  near  ajipronch  to  I  hi',  .'{91 

—  I'arry 's  hoat  and  >-lid^o  joni-ney  lo- 
Wilids  the.  Jdl 

—  Dr.  Mayes's  opinion  a'i  to  the  prae- 
tiealiiiity  of  I'earliin^r  the,  arrosM 
Ive.iiiedy  Chaniirl.  1:17 

—  opinions  of  other  scieiiliHc  authori- 
ties as  to  tli'j  Ix'sf  way  to  reach,  t.'t? 

IVADDODK,  the  Norweirian  jdrate,  his  I    Noi'th-west   juissap'  to   India,  attempts 
Li      discovery  of  Iceland.  7^5  to  discover  the.  .'iS'.t,  .'i'.MI 

iNaiiiar,  or  boilin^jf  mud  springs  of  Ice-        —  MeClure's  disi.'ovi  ry  of  the.  tl.'i 

laud.  (").'{  '    —  eompuny  of  Canada,   formation  and 
|N,ir!ior<)\i<i!i.  Sir  .folin,  his  chart  of  the  trade  of  the.  1}  It 

Strait  of  Ma^'ellan.  .>IH(  •    —  its  wars  with  the  lludsin's  l!ay  Com- 

iNu'whal.  or  sea-unicurn.  domain  of  the,  j        I'.any,  and  final  amal|.;air.atioii,  lUo 


hv  sci\s, 


41 


rctic  rcgi'iiif.J 


e's  cn 


Ington 


w,  lii» 


Luiii'il 


42,  387 
l-ii-;  tusk,  42 

■tireenland  llshery  of  the,  I")? 
ll'iiTm,  Castreii's  visit  to.  1H2 
rtiromancy  of  the  .Saniojedes.  IH!) 
I'l'tschinsk,  treaty  of,  21(1 

I'i'iminals  at  the  mines  of,  221 
¥■■•••>.  Castren's   visit    to  the  Samojodo 

lillilire  of,   ]77_ 

I'*  Ht'oundlaud,  discovered  and  coloni/.ed 

'y  (ireenlanders,  377 
|-it-<  desolate,  appearanco,  430 
its    forests,    marshes,   and    hiirreus, 
440,  441 

its  lakes  and  ponds.  412 
■it.s  fur-hearing  animals,  412 
■if.s  reindeer  and  wolves,  443 
•!t>  climate  and  inhabitants,  443 
■its  capital,  St.  John's.  443 
■history  of  the  island.  414 
[■tak"n  possession  of  by  tho  English, 
444 


I 


Northiiniberlnnd  Sound,  temperalure  of, 

12 
Nototheiiia,  the,  of  the   Antarctii'  seas, 

477 
Norway,  the  lemming  of  the  Dovrifjeld, 
in,  2.'> 

—  an  absolute  monarchy  established  by 

Harold  Ilaarfatrer  in.  '■'> 

—  causes  of  the   mild   climate   of  tho 

coast  of,  100 

—  condition  of  the  ."^oil,  and  of  the  cul- 

tivators of  it.  1 10,  11 2 

—  constitution  of  Norway,  and  educa- 

tion of  tho  peo[>le.  111 

—  population,  1 11 

—  coast  scenery,  112 

—  Drontheim  and  its  indu.sfry,  113 

—  birds  of  the  coast,  114 

—  theherringaiideodiisherics,  lir)-117. 

118 
Novaya   Zemlya,  investigations  of  the 
shores  of,  I  II 


640 


INDEX. 


NOV 

Novaya    Zemlya,    circumnavigated   by 
Paehtussow,  141,  142 

—  meteorological  observations   of    Zi- 

wolka,  145 
climate  of  Novaya  Zemlya,  1 4G 

—  \'on  Baer's  scientific  journey,  147 

—  —  Bcientific  rtsults  of  his  journey, 

149 

vegebition,  149 

solitude  and  silence,  151 

rarity  of  insects,  151 

lemmings  and  foxes,  161 

birds,  151,  152 

other  animals,  152,  153 

—  wintering  of  the  Dutch  under  Barentz 

at,  385 
Novgorod,  the  Great,  subdued  by  the 

Czar  Ivan  I.,  204 
NowodsikofF,  Michael,  his  discoveries, 

215 
Nudibranchiata,  enormous  numbers  of, 

in  the  polar  seas,  41 
Nullipores  on  the  coast  of  Greenland,  41 
Num,  or  Jiliboambaertje,  the  Supremo 

Being  of  the  Samojodes,  188 


OATH,  a  Samojede,  192 
Obdorsk,Castren's  visit  to,  180, 181 

—  description  of  the  town,  200,  201 

—  the  fair  at,  201 

Obi  river,  barren  grounds  near  the,  7 

—  its  importance  to  tlio  Ostjaks,  196 

—  Castren's  journey  to  the,  181 

—  misery  caused  by  the  overflow  of  the, 

181 

—  inhabitants  of  the  banks  of  the,  182 
Ochota  river,  the,  279 

Ochotsk,  sea  of,  reached  by  a  party  of 
Cossacks,  209 

—  view  of,  275 

• —  description  of  the  town,  279 

Olaf  Truggcson,  King  of  Norway,  sends 
a  missionary  to  Iceland,  78 

Olginsk,  gold  mine  of,  2'iG 

Olonez.  number  of  bears  killed  for  their 
skins  every  year  in,  229 

Ommaney,  Captain,  his  search  for  Frank- 
lin, 4n 

—  his  discovery  of  Franklin's  first  win- 
ter quarters,  412 

Onkilon,  or  sedentary  Tchuktchi,  304, 
305 

—  their  mode  of  life,  305 
Oraefa  Jokull,  views  of,  50,  52 
■ —  height  of,  61 

—  eruptions  of,  since  the  colonization 

of  Iceland,  81 
Orange  Island,  visited  by  Barentz,  383 
Ore.     Sec  Grampus 
Osborne,  Captain  Sherard,  his  opinion 


PAR 

as  ix)  the  method  of  reaching  ths 

North  Pole,  437 
Osprey,  the,  121 
Ostjaks,  their  fishing  grounds  on  the 

Obi,  182 

—  group  of,  196 

—  their  summer  huts  and  mode  of  life, 

197 

—  their  poverty,  197 

—  their  winter  huts,  198 

—  their  attachment   to   their    ancient 

customs,  198 

—  thi'ir  clans,  and  princes,  or  chieftains, 

199 

—  their  excellence  as  archers,  199 

—  their  personal  appearance,  and  cus- 

toms, 200 

—  annual   tribute   levied  by  Yermak, 

the  robber,  on  them,  207 

—  confirmed   V)y  the  Czar  in  the  pos- 

session of  their  hinds,  212 
Ostrich,  Darwin's,  of  Patagoniii,  608 
Ostrownoje,  town  and  fair  of,  299,  ;i(ll 
Otter,    the    sea,    or    kalan    {I'jihijilm\ 

lutris),  value  of  the  fur  of  the,  226, 

229 

—  description  of  the  animal,  226.  227j 

—  chase  of  the,  in  Kamtschatka,  295 

—  otter  hunting  of  the  Aleiits,  ;n2 
Otter,  the  fish  {Lutra  Canadensis),  352,j 

353 

—  fur  of  the,  353 
Owl,  great  snowy,  16 

—  its  favourite  food,  26 

—  its  winter  in  the  highest  latitudes,  26 
Ox,  the,  in  Iceland,  62 
Oyster,    most    northerly    limit    wlier^ 

found,  115 


PACHTIJSSOW,  his  circumnnvigatioi 
of  the  southern  island  of  NevayJ 
Zemlya,  141,  142 

—  his  s(!Cond  voyage  and  death,  143 

145 
Pack-ice,  23 

—  its   tendency   to    separate    in  ciilil 

weather,  36 
Paikoff,  his  discovery  of  the  Fox  Island 

215 
Parrots  of  Patagonia,  508 
Parry,  Lieut.  W.  E.  (afterwards  .Vdniir 

Sir),  his  Arctic  voyages,  392 

—  his  second  voyage,  .397 

—  his  third  voyage,  399 
abandonment  of  the  '  Furv,'  39 

—  his  boat  and  sledge  journey  lowal 

the  Pole,  401 

—  his  sul)sequent  career,  402 
Parry,  Mount,  discovery  of,  429 

—  Dr. Hayes's  journey  to,  436 


J 


,    Is  of  Kiistc 
i'll.ifion  of  N 


INDEX. 


641 


ling  the 
J  on  tho 
ie  of  life, 

r    anoiont 
'  chieftains, 

e,  and  cus- 

ly  Yermak, 

;07 

in  thepoB- 

212 

onia.  5(18 

)f,  '299,  m 

1    (Evhydna  j 

of  the,  226,  j 

,al,  226.  227  j 
jhatka.  295 
eiits.  ;^12 
adinsis),  352,| 


ftlatitiidos,2a 
limit    wlierej 


kimnavigati'i! 
Ind  of  Nov^yJ 

Id  di;ath,  H^ 


Irate    in  ^'^^^ 
L  Fox  Island 

tvards  Admit 
392 


le  '  I'wy.'  3f 
liurney  lowal 

402 
[of,  429 
4'36 


PAR 

Parry  Mountains,  discovery  of  the,  482 
riisina  river,  scanty  population  of  the, 

240 
Patagoniii,  Captain  Fitzroy's  surrey  of, 

600 

—  tho  people  of,  503,  608 

—  diffureuce   of    climate   between   tho 

east  and  west,  ,003 

—  aridity  of  the  east  of,  504,  505 

—  largo  rivers  of,  505 

—  animals  of,  505 

—  fashions  of  tho  Patagnnians,  509 

—  their  religious  ideas,  oU9 

—  their  superstitions  and  astronomical 

knowledge,  510 

—  their  division  into  tribes,  51 1 

—  their  huts,  511 

—  their  trading  routes,  512 

—  their    system   of    government,   and 
great  cacique,  512 

introduction  of  tiie  horse,  513 
their  arms,  amusements,   and   cha- 
racter, 513,  514 
I  Paul,  St.,  climate  of  tho  island  of,  309 

ciiase  of  the  sea-boar  on  the,  313 
I  Paul  'lie  First,  discovery  of  th(!  Island 

of,  480 

[Pt'kan,  or  woodshock  {Maries  Canaden- 
sis), fur  of  the,  352 
iPenas,  gulf  of,  glacier  at  tho,  470 
|Ptnguin,  the,  523 

of  the  Antarctic  seas,  471,  472 
I-  its  food,  473 
'enny,  Master,  his  search  for  Franklin, 
411,  412 
jPeruvian  current,  influence  of  the,  1G9, 

470 
|?rtermann,  Dr.  Augustus,  his  view  of 

tlie  route  to  tho  Pole,  437 
jPctrel,  the  giant  {Procdiaria  gigantca), 

of  the  Antarctic  seas,  470 
jPetropaulowsk,  view  of  the  town  of,  290 
|-  its  population,  293 
•unsuccessful  attack  of  the  English 
and  Freneli  on,  293 
|?-tsol)ora  river,  143 
|;:;ilip's  Bay,  St.,  491 
p.ip[is,  Captain  (afterwards  Lord  ^lul- 
i  grave),  his  vojago   to  discover  tlie 
north-west  passage,  391 
Ipit  {Anthus  jyratensiii),  the,  of  Iceland, 

liihina,  Castren's  residence  and  study 

ht,  184 

I'vor  Island,  discovery  of,  416 

['ivers  of  Iceland,  64 

\sLm\,  the  elk  of,  23 

North,  probable  condition  of  tlio 

lin.l  (if  any)  at  tlic,  1 1 

\\m.  Fedor,  his  discovery  of  the  gold 
Ills  of  Kastern  Siberia,  231 

ffulation  of  Norway,  HI 


REI 

Potato,  cultivation  of,  in  Norway,  113 
Pribilow  Islands,  climafo  of,  .308,  309 

—  sea-Iious,  and  guillemots  of,  309 

—  chase  of  the  sea-bear,  313 

Prontschisdit.schew,  his  fruitles.s  endea- 
vours to  double  the  capes  of  Taiunir- 
land,  213 

—  death  of  him  and  his  wife,  213 

Prussia,  East,  \\w  elk  of,  23 

Ptarmigan  (Lai/opus  (i//)i('i),  its  resi- 
dence in  tho  liigiiest  latitudes  in  win- 
ter. 26 

—  ofSpitzbergen,  129,  139 

—  its  summer  visits  to  Taimurland,  251 

—  in  tho  Tundra  in  summer,  5 
Pteropods,  food  for  the  Greenland  whale, 

42 
Putfins  of  Lovunnen  island,  114 

—  mode  of  catching  them,  114 

Punta  Arenas,  col(myof  Germans  at,  501 
Pustosersk,  vi.sit  of  Ca.stren  to,  177, 179 
Pym,  Lieut.,  liis  sicdgo  journey  of  search 
for  Franklin,  415 


T>ACOON  (Proci/on  Inior),  351,  438 
J-t    —  value  and  trade  in  the  skins  of 

the,  351 
Kae,    Dr.,    his    search   for    Sir    John 
Kidiard.son,  410 

—  his  discoveries  in   tho  Arctic  seas, 

410,  411 

—  his  discovery  of  the  fate  of  Franklin 
and  his  crew,  418,  419 

Raipass,  copper  mines  at,  119 
Ranunculus,  snow  {Ii'anuncu/usniralis), 

of  Novaya  Zemlya,  149 
Rat,  musk.      Sec  Musquash. 
Ravens  of  Iceland,  07 

—  ravens  in  tho  Scandinavian  mytho- 

logy, 67,  68 

—  superstitions  of  tho   Icelanders  re- 

specting the,  68 
Razor-bill,    its    nests     on     tho     most 

northern  rocks.  19 
Red    Knite     Indians,     their     hunting 

grounds,  364 
Red-pole,  the,  of  Spitzhorpon,  129 
Red  Rivercolony,  destruction  of  tho,  345 
Reil  sharks  of  Iceland,  64 
Reindeer,  its  summer  ami  winter  (|iiar- 

ters  in  the  Arctic  regions,  o,  6 

—  foo<l  found  by  the.  in  Spit/.bergen,  10, 

11 

—  reindeer  travelling  in  Lapland,  17 

—  its  importance  to  man  in  tho  northern 

regions,  17 

—  its  formation  and  adaptation  to  tho 

circumstances  in  wliich  it  is  placed, 
18 

—  clattering  sound  of  his  feet,  18 

—  its  antlers,  18 


542 


INDEX. 


RE  I 

Reindeer,  its  young,  18 

—  its  milk,  19 

—  its  food  and  olfiictory  powers,  19 

—  the  caribou  of  North  America,  19 

■ —  its  geographical  range  in  the  Old  and 
Now  Worhl,  19 

—  its  love  of  a  cold  climate,  20 

—  its  services  to  niiin,  20,  21 

—  its  enemies,  and  disorders  to  which 

it  is  liable,  22 

—  a  nuisance  in  Ici'land,  G4 

—  of  Spitzljergen,  129 

—  the  reindeer  pens  of  the  Lapps,  160 

—  milking  the  reindeer,  161 

—  the  reindeer  sledges  of  the  Lapps,  1 62 

—  attempt  made  to  acclimatise  the  rein- 

deer in  Scotland,  163 

—  ravages  of  wolves  in  herds  of  rein- 

deer, 166 

—  rich  Lapp  owners  of  herds,  1G6 

—  Lapp  mode  of  killing  the  reindeer, 

167 

—  its  two  annual  migrations,  266 

—  reindeer  hunts  of  the  Jukaliires  of 

theAniuj,  266,  267 

—  reindeer  races  of  the  Tchuktchi,  303 

—  reindeer  hunting  of  the  Esquimaux, 

324,  325 

—  tlio  Kutehin  Indian  mode  of  pound- 

ing tlie  reindeer,  374 

—  chase  of  the  reindeer  in  Greenland, 

459 
Rensselaer  Bay,  temperature  of,  in  mid- 
winter, 6 

—  Kane's  winters  at,  424,  430 
Resanow.  .Takin,  liis  gold  fields,  231 
Reykjahlid,  boiling  mud  cauldrons  of,  o3 
Reykjavik,  mean  annual  temperature  of, 

61 

—  the  present  capital  of  Iceland,  7o 

—  account  of,  86,  87 

—  the  annual  fair  of,  87 

—  salary  of  the  bishop  of,  93 

—  schools  and  library  of,  95,  97 

—  the  Icelandic  Literary  Society,  98 
Rhinoceros  remains  found  on  the  coast 

of  Northern  Siberia,  217 
Richardson,  Dr.  (afterwards  Sir   John), 
his  Arctic  land  voyages,  395,  390 

—  dreadful  sufferings  of  the  party,  395, 

396 

—  his  search  for  Sir  .John  Pranklin,  410 
Rivers  discharging  their  waters  into  the 

Polar  ocean,  3 
— of  Iceland,  59 
Rockv   Mountains,   the   wild   sheep  of 

the,  24 

—  view  of  tlie,  at  tlio  bend  of  tlio  Mac- 

kenzie river.  361 
Roebuck,  near  Lake  IJaikal,  21 
Ronpials,   or  tin-whales,   habitat    and 
size  of  the,  42 


SAL 

Rorquals,  their  food,  42 

Rosmysslow,   his  investigations  of  the 

shores  of  Novaya  Zemlya,  141 
Ross  Capt.  (i.fterwards  Sir  John),  Arctic 

voyages,  392 

—  his  second  journey,  4<)2 

Ids  five  years  in  the  Arctic  Ocean, 

402-407 

his  return  home  and  honours,  403 

Ross,  Sir  James,  his  Arctic  voyages,  lo.l 

—  his  search  for  Franklin,  411 

—  his    discoveries     in     the    Antarctic 

Ocean,  481 

—  collision     between     his     ships,   tho 

'  Erebus '  and  '  Terror,'  486,  487 

—  his  danger  between  two  icebergs,  188 
Rum,  effects  of,  on  an  Iceland  clergy- 
man, 89 

Rupert's  Land,  held  by  tho  Hudson's  j 

Bay  Company,  3  16 
Russia,  character  of  the  conifers  of,  8 

—  the  elk  of  tho  woods  of  the  northern  | 

parts  of,  23 

—  conquest  f)f,  by  the  Tartars   iniderj 

Baaty  Khan,  203 

—  liberated  from  the  Tartar  yoke  byj 

Ivan  I.,  203 

—  advances  of,  in  Siberia,  209 

—  annexes  the  country  of  the  Annu',  210j 

—  condition  of  tho  natives  under  thai 

yoke  of,  211 

—  exiles      from     Russia    to     8ili-;rw,| 

218-221 

—  Talne  of  tho  skins  annually  iniportei 

by  Russia,  228,  229 

—  their  life  and  dwellings  in  Nis^lind 

Kolymsk,  264 

—  first    treaty  of    commerce    belwoctj 

England  and.  379 
Russia  Company,  patent  granted  to  il: 

to  fish  off  Greenland,  131 
Russian  Fur  Company,  account  of  tlid 

and  its  trade,  310.  311 


SABINE,  Mount,  discovery  of,  481 
Sable,  tho,  202 
■ —  value   of  the.  to   the  Cofsa^k  coq 
((Uerors  of  Siberia,  209 

—  importance  and  beauty  of  the  fiirf 

the,  224 

—  hunting,  225 
Salirina  Land,  discovery  of,  480 
Sagamen,  or  historians,  of  Icelaml.  'i 
Sajan  Mountains,  Castren's  journey  o^ 

the,  185 
Salmon,   Alpine    (Sahio   nfpii'iif),  il 

n  1  on se  numbers  of,  in  Novaya  Zemll 

163 
Salmon,  shoals  of,  in  the  rivers  of  I 

Arctic  regions,  5 

—  abundance  of,  in  Iceland,  71 


INDEX. 


^43 


ins  of  the 

141 

)hn),  Arctic 

rctic  Ocoan, 
■vonoiUK,  403 

411 

10    Antarctic 

r,'  4S(>,  4H7 
icoberg^,  ISS 
eliind  clergy- 

tho  Hudson's  I 

onii'ers  of,  8 
,f  the  northern  | 


Tartars 


under  I 


Cartar  voice  hyj 

,f  the  Amur.  2  01 
Xives  undtT  tli«| 


la 


to     B'a>-;riii,l 


mually  impose 
lUngs  in  >'^l>nfl 


amerce 


liL'lweoq 


|t  granted  to  iV.< 

131  ,  ,  , 

,  account  ct  tli^ 

111 
jovery  of,  -ISl 

Ly  of  tho 


fur 


ly  of.  -i^"  , 

of  Iceland 
ten's  journcyo' 

.Novayii/erol: 
the  rivers  of 
tland,  "I 


SAL 

Salmon  of  the  Sea  of  Ochotsk,  279 
• —  abundanee  of,  in  Kamtschatka,  291 
Samojedes,  European,  Castren's  journey 
among  the,  ITfy 

—  their  drunkenness,  176 

—  their     inipatienco    of    confinement, 

176-178 

—  their  barbarism,  187 

—  their  Supreme  Being,  Nam,  or  Jili- 

beambaertje,  188 

—  their  recourse  to  incantations,  1 88 

—  their  idols,  188,  189 

—  their  reverence  paid  to  tho  dead,  191 

—  their  mode  of  taking  an  oath,  192 

—  their  personal  appearance  and  habits, 

192,  193 

—  their  wealth  in  reindeer,  194 

—  their  entire  number  in  Europe  and 

Asia,  194 

—  their   traditions   of  ancient  heroes, 

194,  195 

—  confirmed  by  tho  Czar  in  their  pos- 

sessions. 212 

—  tho  8u*\qjedecomp,T,nionsof  Von  ^[id- 

dendorff  on  his  journey,  242,  247 
Siimund  Erode,  his  Icelandic  works,  79 
Sand-bee  {Aiulroia)  of  Novaya  Zeinlva, 

1")1 
Sand-reed  bread  used  in  Iceland,  G2 
Sarndento,  Pedro,  his  voyage,  499 
Sarytchew,  voyage  of,  on  the  coast  of 

Siljcria,  210 
Smvina  river,  142 

•Saxit'ragas,  the,  of  tho  treeless  zone,  7 
Soalds,  or  bards,  of  Iceland,  79 
Standi  navia,character  of  the  Con  iferje()f,8 
Scluilaurow,  liis  journeys  on  tho  coast  of 

■Siberia,  214 
Jeharostin,  his  residence  at  Spitzbergen, 

136 
Sclulagskoi,   Capo,  rounded   by   Count 

Michael  Stadnchin,  210 
-reached  by  Sclialaurow,  214 
Jooresby,  Dr,  his  visit  to  Spitzbergen, 
123,  124 

t'aptain,  his   near  approach  to   the 
Xurtii  Pole,  391 
I-  his  voyage  to  Greenlaml,  4")  I,  4j') 
O'jtcr,  ur  black  diver,  tlio,  280 
ntiii,  Nova,  disci)vcred  and  colonized 
ly  Greenlandors,  377 
irvy  in  Spitzbergen,  133-13.') 
[Hvscrvative  against,  133,  13.') 
Lapp,  mode  of  provonliiig  t!i(>,  l{i9 
.  inrtuence  of  the,  on  the  .severity  of 
%•  Arctic  winter,  1 1 

Antarctic,  compared  with  tlu-  Arctic 
reiiions,  46v) 

'.lisence  of  vegetation  in  the,  465 
causes  of  tho  inferiority  of  the  Ant- 
sMie  climate,  40.')- 167 
muiensity  of  the  icebergs  of  the,  467 


SHE 

Sea,  Antarctic,  tho  Peruvian  current,  466 

—  birds  of  tho  Antarctic  coasts,  470 

—  Antarctic  cetaceans,  473-477 

—  Austral  fi.shes,  477 

—  Antarctic  voyages  of  discovery,  479 

—  Antarctic  storms  and  pack-ice,  48.') 
Seas,  Arctic,  dangers  peculiar  to  the,  29 

—  floating  masses  of  ice,  29,  30 

—  ice-blink,  3i) 

—  summer  fogs,  36 

—  clearness  of  the  atmosphere  and  ap- 

parent nearness  of  objects,  36 

—  phenomena  of  rettection  and  refrac- 

tion of  the  atmosphere,  37 

—  causes  which  prevent  tho  accumida- 

tion  of  polar  ice,  37,  38 

—  the  animals  of  the  Arctic  seas,  26,  40 
— -  Russian  discoveries  off  tho  Siberian 

Coast,  2 1 ")  cf  gtq. 

—  Von  ^Nliddendorff-s  journey  down  tho 

Taimur   river   to    the    polar    soa, 
243,  244 

—  Wrangell's  nightson  thepolarsea,  269 

—  his  observations  on  the  polar  soa,  270 

—  INIaliuschkin's  sledge  journey,  272 

—  voyages  of  tho  English  and  iJutch, 

377  cf  Krq. 
Sea-bear  of  Behring  soa.  44 
Sea-eagles  of  tho  coast  of  Norway,  114 
Sea-elephaut    of  the   Antarctic    Ocean, 

47G,  489 
Sea-gulls  of  the  coast  of  Norway,  114 
Seals,  the,  of  the  polar  seas,  44 

—  their  uses  to  man,  44 

—  seal  fishing  at  Spitzbergen,  136 

—  of  Novaya  Zomlya.  l.")3 

—  Seal  hunts  of  the  Hstpiimaux,  326 

. — •  seal  c.itcliing  at  Xewfonndiand,  4  17 

—  seal-hunting  on  the  coasts  of  CJreen- 

land,  45G 

—  tho  Arctic  seals,  477 
Sea-lion  of  Behring  sea,  44 

—  of  tho  Pribilow  islands.  309 
Sea-otter,  value  of  the  skin  and  former 

numbers  of  tho,  214,21.") 
Sodsxer  river,  romantic  scenery   of  the, 

493 
.■^eniplo.  riiiveriior,  murder  of.  34.5 
Sei'tulariaiis  on  tln'cuasis  ot  (iroenlaiiil, 

41 
Service-trees  in  the  Aretic  i-egions,  8 
Shark,  Ijasking  (Ui  tho  northern  coasts 

of  Iceland,  70 

—  its  uses  to  the  islanders.  70,  71 

—  oil  m.'innfactured  from  its  liver,  71 

—  the   northern   (Siy/nnuts  microccjiha- 

Ins),  abundance  of,  otf  Spitzbergen, 
130 

—  fishery  of,  on  the  coast  of  Greenland, 

Sheep, wild  {Oi'Unioiifana),o{t\\(i  Rocky 
Mountains,  description  of  the,  24 


644 


INDEX. 


8HB 

Slipop,  Wilfl,  tho,  of  Iceland,  and  their 

enemies,  62,  63 

mode  of  slipop-shoaring,  63 

Shetland  Islands,  New,  account  of  tlie, 

467,  468 
Shrimps  offSpitzbergon,  125 
Siberia,  extent  of  tho  tn'olctts  zone  of,  8 

—  character  of  the  Coniferae  of,  8 

—  tho  elk  of,  23 

—  the  rocilaick  and  red  deer  of,  24 

—  the  argaii,  or  wild  shucp  of,  24 

—  tho  white  dolphin  in  tlie  rivers  of, 

43 

—  conquest  of,  by  tho  Cossficks  for  the 

Kussians,  205-207 

—  final  conquest   of,  by  the  Russians, 

and  foundation  of  Tobolsk,  209  ct 
seq. 

—  condition  of  the  natives  of  Siberia, 

under  the  dominion  of  Eussia,  211, 
212 

—  scientific  expeditions  sent  to  Siberia, 

213  et  8€q. 

—  its  past  ages,  217 

—  its  extent  and  capabilities,  218 
-  tho  exiles  sent  there,  218,  219 

their  condition  there,  221 

—  condition  of  the  West  Siberian  pea- 

sants, 222 

—  resources  of  the  country,  223 

—  extremes  of  heat  and  culd,  223 

—  fur-bearing  animals,  224 

—  the  gold  fields  of  Eastern  Siberia, 

and  the  miners,  230-233 

value  of  tlie  produce  of  sonic  of 

the  mines,  236 

entire  value  of  the  produce  of  gold 

in  1856  and  1800,  237 

luxury  and  extravagance  caused 

by  tlio  wealthy  gold  specula- 
tors, 237.  238 

the  gold  of  tho  Ural,  238,  239 

Siberia,  New,  loiiimings  of,  11 

—  discovery  of  the  islands  of,  215,  216 

—  fossil  ivory  of,  216 

Sibir,  the  capital  of  the  Tartars  in  Si- 
beria, 204 

—  taken  by  Yermak,  the  robber,  for  tho 

Czar,  207 
Simpson,  Mr.  Thomas,  his  Arctic  land 
voyage,  409 

—  his  discoveries,  409,  410 

—  assassinated,  410 

Sirowatsky,  his  discovery  of  the  Archi- 
pelago of  New  Siberia,  217 

Skalholt,  the  ancient  capital  of  Iceland, 
account  of,  85,  86 

—  its  present  condition,  86 

■ —  its  meadow  lands  and  scenery,  86 
Skaptar  jfikull,  51 

—  the  great  eruption  of,  in  1783,  81 
Skates  of  Lapjis,  102 


SPI 

Skeidara,  Mr.  Holland's  journey  across 

the,  100,  101 
Skjalfaiidatljot  river,  in  Iceland,  59 
Skogslappar,  or  Forest  Lapps,  account 

of  tho,  169 
Sledges  of  the  Lapps,  162 

—  tlie  sacred  sledge,  Ilahengau,  of  tho 

Samojedes,  188 

—  group  of  liussian,  240 
Smith's  Sound,  temperature  of,  12 

—  icebergs  formed  in,  31 

—  discovery  of  the  entrance  to,  390,  424 
'  Smoke,  valley  of,'  in  Iceland,  53 
Snorri  Sturleson,  the  Herodotus  of  the 

North,  account  of  him  and  his  'Heini- 

kringla,'  79,  80 
Snow-buntings  of  the  'barren  grounds,' 5 
Snow,  its  protection  of  tho  vegetation  of 

the  Arctic  regions,  0 

—  warmth,  caused  by,  6 

—  no  laud  yot   found   covered   to   the 

waters  edge  with  eternal  snow,  10 

—  amount  of  tho  fall  of,  inT.iimurlaiid, 

249 

—  probable  diminution  of  the  fall  of, 

advancing  towards  the  pole,  24'J 

—  its  protection  against  cold,  249,  250 
Socialism  among  the  Dog  Ilib  Indians, 

367 

Solfataras  of  Iceland  and  Sicily  com- 
pared, 71,  72 

Solovetskoi,  convent  of,  174 

—  islands  of,  175 

Sorcery  of  the  Laplanders,  157 

—  of  the  Samojedes,  189 
Souslik,  the,  186 

Spain,  salted  cod-fish  imported  into.  12rt 
Spasy,  produce  of  the  gold  mine  of,  'I'ol 
Sperm  whale,  the,  478 
Spirits,  invisible,  of  the  Samojedes,  189 
Spitzbergcn,  fiowers  of,  6 

—  vast  fields  of  ice  in  the  plateau  of,  Irt 

—  food  of  the  reindeer  of,  10,  1 1 

—  proofs  of  a  former  milder  climate  in.Uj 

—  birds  of,  27 

—  apparent,  nearness  of  objects  at,  i 

clear  weather,  36 

—  the  walrus  of  the  coast  of,  40 

—  description  of  tho  archipelago  of,  122, 

123 

—  the  west  coast,  123 

—  Scoresby's  ascent  of  a  mountain,  tm 

excursion  along  the  coast,  I'l'A,  12' 

—  Magdalena  bay,  125-127 

—  ice  cliffs  and  avalanches  of  ice,  12' 

—  Scientific  exploring  expeditions  ■•I'l 

to,  127 

—  flora  ami  fauna  of,  128,  129 

—  fisheries  of,  130 

—  coal  and  drit'lwood  of,  130 

—  histoi'v  of.  131 

—  attempts  made  to  colonize  it,  132. 1 


iilphur  of 
~  eoinpjiiv: 
"iiinicr,  tl, 

-  ''"i-'S  of,  , 

-  I"  Tainui 
■'III.   the   m 

.  '"'^'s,  ;j3, 

'"'I'-l't,    niJIiri 

""-■■It  Past 
-'•'-hellir.c 
'''■■-eripfi.jn 
[r  y.K-w  of  rJi 
'^.  the,  ol 
,■;;  Value  of  if 

'"'ituifiOSH,  Q, 

i'"i-noss,  ci 
h'lsof  Ji,,Ja 


IXDIiX. 


.545 


fney 


across 


p8,  accoiint 
igau,  of  tlio 


■  of,  12 

010,390,424 

,nd,  O'i 
jiloUis  of  the 

pn  grounclw,"  o 
)  vegetation  of 


:,vercd  to  tlie 
orniil  snow.  10 
inTahuurUiul, 

of  the  fall  "f. 

th.poU'.'il'J 

coUl,  249,  2o0 

,g  lUb  ludums, 

aid  Sicily  cora- 

174 

Irs,  157 

r 

[ported  into.  12'lj 
|,Ul  mine  of,  '.!•'<' 

1  Samojedfs,  1S9| 

lie  plateau  uf,  I'i 

tf,  10,  11  I 

[lev  climate  in,U| 

If  objects  at,  m 
fciipelago  «.t,  I- 


L  mountain,  ftn 
coast,  123,  I'i 

llusof  ICC,  1^' 
expedition:*  **•'' 

^8,  129 

i;5<t 

luizcit.13-.' 


SIT 

8pitzbcrnrcii,  Russian  liuntors'  modo  of 
wiiifprin;:  at,  ili.") 

—  walrus  and  seal  fishing  at,  13G 

—  discovery  of.  3St 

Spdut,  the,  of  Xcwfoundhuid,  43'J 
Sprinirs.  hot,  of  leeknd,  o8 

—  llio  (joybcr,  r)t 

—  the  Slrokkr,  '>6 

Spruce  h'ir  of  the  Hudson's  Buy  terri- 
tory, 8 

Si|nirrel.  value  of  llie  fur  <if  the.  22S 

Stadolski  Ishmd,  visit  of  Paehtus.sow 
Id,  112 

.'^laducliin,  (.'ount  Miehaol,  his  fnunda- 
tioii  of  the  town  of  Nishnei-Kolynisk, 
210 

—  navigates  the  .sea  eastward  of  Capo 

Seliclauskoi,  210 
.^tawiueu  river,  1  l.'i 
Stcll.M-,  <;.  \V..  notice  of  liim.  281 

—  hissei<'ntiliejouriieytoKanitschatka, 

282 

—  ill-treated  by  Eehring.  284 

—  his  sutleriuLrson  JJchriufr,  Island.  2SG 

—  death  of  liiseonimandfr,  Hehriuir,  28" 
--  his  return  to  Kamtsehatk.-i,  288 

—  liersecuted    by  tho  Siberian  autho- 

rities, 289 

—  his  death.  289 
Stiiektish  of  b'el.uid.  "0 
Sioniis  on  tlu'  White  Sea,  174 
^    of  tlie  Tundras,  178,  179 

of  the  Arctic  /.one,  219 
I  •If  Newfoundhnid,  447 

—  in  tlie  Antarctic  ocean,  48.') 
the  williwaws,  or  hurricane  squalls, 

of  tlie  Straits  of  Maitellan,  190 
|SiiMrronofl-',   foinidalion  of  tlie   Kussiau 

liiMiily  uf,  204,  20.J 
1^-ii'okkr,  description  of  the,  oo 
ti'ingbow  Indians  of  the  Kooky  Jloun- 
tnins,  the,  lUil 
|>ukkerto]ipen.  seen  by  Davis,  381 
>iil|iliur  of  Iceliuid,  71 
-  compared  with  that  of  Sicily,  71.  72 
hininier,  the  perpetual  daylight  uf,  .')(J 
I—  joiis  of,  36 
1-  in  Tainiurland,  218 
Yin.   tilt!    inidnitrht,   effect   of,    on    ico- 

r-s,  33,  34  '' 
I'^'Jiisot,  niaij:ni(lcenee  of  a.  I.i 
piviit,  Tastren's  visit  to,  181.  182 
■*ii'ts-hellir,  or  eaves  of  .Surtur,  view  and 
(!escri[iti(m  of,  .""jS 
view  of  tlio  lava-field  of,  8.5 
|i>lik,  the,  of  Siberia,  228 

valua  of  its  fur,  228 
t'ltuiiioss.  Cape,  fossil  ivory  at,  21.5 
I-atiii-noss,  doubled  by  the  Russians, 

■m 

I'liw  of  Icehnul,  Gl,  G7 


'IKM 

TARIX,  the  iniat,dnary  Cape,  of  the 
Dutch  navigators,  383,  384 
Tadibes,  or  sorcerers,  of  the  S.iniojedes, 
189 

—  their  dress  and  incantations,  189 
Tagilsk,    Nisline,    the    gold-producing 

town  of,  238 
Taiga,  melancholy  eharactor  of  tho,  230 

—  iiold  (icids  of 'lh(>,  231 

Taininr  Lake,  visiua  by  Lieut.  Laptcw, 
213 

—  sl(n'in  on  the,  2lo 

'J'aiiiiur  river,  visited  bv  Lieut.  Laptew, 
213 

—  \'on  I\ridilendorff's  journey  to  tlio, 

212-21.-) 
T;iiiiinrland,  endeavours  of  I'rontscliis- 
elilschew  to  double  the  capes  of,  213 
.Middendortfs  atlventures  in,  240 

—  his  observations  on  the  cliniato  and 

natural  jiroduetions  uf,  248 

—  amount  of  the  fall  of  snow  in,  249 
Tana  river,  discovery  of  tlu:,  by  .lelissei 

Ihisa.  209 
Tarn,  3Iount,  Darwin's  ascent  of,  491 
Tartars,  their  subjection  of  tho  Russians, 

203 

—  driven  out  l)y  Ivan  I.,  203 

—  pi'rniaiumtly  overthrown  by  Ivan  II., 

204 
Tattooing,  Creo  Indian  modo  of,  3.')9 
Tehendoma,    the,    visited    by    .lolissei 

Ihisa,  209 
Tclmktchi,  barren  grounds  in  the  land 

of  the,  7 

—  the  hind  of  the,  298 

—  tents  of  the,  298 

—  their  short  suminer,  298 

—  their  inde|)cndeiice  and  commercial 

enterprise,  299 
--  IMatinsclikiir.s  visit  tosomeTchuktchi 
ladies,  302 

—  amusements  of  the  people,  303 

—  the  wandering  and  sedentary  Tehuk- 

tchi,  30  I,  30.) 

—  their  mode  of  life,  304,  30.» 

—  population    of    the     land     of    tho 

Tchiiklchi.  30.') 
Tea-parlies  at  Nishue  Kolynisk,  2G7,2G8 
T(  inprrature  of  Reus-claer  IJay  iu  miil- 
wi liter,  0 

—  ellect  of  the  sea  on  tho  tomperature 

of  the  Arctic  regions,  11 

—  influence  of  tho  winds,  11 

—  the  lowest  teniperalures  over  felt  by 

man.  12 

—  how   man  is  enabled  to  boar  oxtra- 

ordinai-y  low  temperatures,  13 

—  former   milder  temperature   of    the 

Arctic  regions,  13 

—  probable  causes  of  tho  changes  iu  tin? 

Arctic  climate.  \'i 


N  N 


5i(i 


IXDKX. 


TEM 

Ictiliind 


at    diflRron^. 


Tompcrature   of 
plm'i'H.  (iO 

Toiin.y.son'b  Monuiiipiit,  Dr.  Kane's  de- 
scriijlioii  of,  427 

Ti-rrur.  Mount,  40'),  483 

Torski  Lapps,  Castivii'M  attempted  jour- 
ney to  the,  171,  n^i 

Thangbraud.  Cliristiau  missionary  to 
leeland.  78 

Tiiingvalla,  plain  of,  ')7 

—  site  of  till'  aneiont  Icelandic  Althing 

at.  7(i,  77 

Thin!j;valia  Lake,  in  leeland,  Gt),  77 

Tiiiorsa  river,  in  lecIand,  o9 

Thorlakson,  Jon,  tlie  poet  of  Iceland, 
account  of  him  and  his  works,  94 

Thorne,  llohert,  liis  sufiirestion  for  sail- 
infi  across  tlio  North  I'olf,  ;!88 

Thorwald  the  Traveller,  the  first  Chris- 
tian Icelander,  his  career,  77,  78 

Tides,  effect  of  the,  in  preventing  the 
accumulation  of  polar  ico,  !J8 

Tinne  Indians, defeated  by  theCreos,  3.5G 

—  their  retaliation,  3o7 

—  their  wars  with  the  Blaekfect,  357 

—  their  wigwams,  or  touts,  3  GO 

—  various    tribes    of  the   Tinne,   and 

their  range,  364 

—  their  appearance,  manners,  and  cus- 

toms, 365-3G8 
■—  improvements  in  their  condition,  3G8, 
369 

—  their  wives  and  children,  369 

—  their  cruelty  to  the  aged,  369 
Tjumen,  the  first  settlement  of  Ilussians 

'  in  Siberia,  209 

—  Steller's  grave  at,  289 

Tobacco,  fondness  of  the  Lapps  for,  168 
170 

—  eagerness  of  the  wild  tribes  of  the 

Nortli  for,  300 
Tobolsk,  view  of,  203 

—  battle  of,  207 

• —  foundation  of  the  city,  209 

—  condition  of  the  southern  part  of.  222 
Tolstoi  Ness.  Oastren's  visit  to,  181 
Tolstych,  Adrian,  his  discoveries,  215 
Tomsk,  criminals  of,  222 

Tornea,  reindeer  gloves  of,  21 

—  river,  171 

Torsteinson    Jon,  the    martyr    of   the 

AVestmann  Islands,  108 
Train-oil  of  Tromso,  118 
Transbaikalia,  Castren's  visit  to,  186 
Travelling  in  Iceland,  99 
Treeless    zone    of    Europe,   Asia,   and 

America,  4-8 
Treurenberg  bay,  doer  of,  129 
Triiiladyngja,   eruptions   of,    since   the 

colonization  of  Iceland,  81 
Tromso,  cod  fishery  and  cod-liver  oil  of. 

118 


VEO 

Tromso,  description  of  the  town  and  is- 

land,  118 
T.schirigow,  his  voyages,  215 
Tueiittico  {C/rno/iii/s  M(iijellanica),  the, 

of  I'atagonia,  506 
Tuiidri,  or  barren  grounds  of  the  Arctic 

regions,  4,  5 
— of  the  Eur()|iean  .Samqjedes,  175 
■ —  storms  of  the  Tundriis,  178 
Tuug-ower,  (jr  hot   spring  at  Reikhoh, 

in  Icehind,  53 
Tungusi,  tile,  their  relationship  to  tiic 

JIandsciiu,  275 

—  their  eoiujuei^ls,  and  final  subjugation 

by  the  Russians,  275,  276 

—  their  iiitellc'etn;il  (Icvelopmcnt,  27'i 

—  tiieir  tribes  and  populalioii,  276 

—  their  wrct(_'lnMliiess,  276 

—  their  manners  and  customs,  277,  278 
TuiiLTUska    river,    gold    fields    of     tlie 

Upper,  231 
Turkey-buzzard,  the,  of  Patagonia,  507 
Turuchansk,  Castren's  visits  to,  183.  IS.') 
Tyndall  glacier,  enormous  size  of,  32 


UFFLIOT  the  Wise,  his  first  code  of 
laws  in  Iceland,  76 
Unalaschka,  climate  of,  307,  308 

—  Vegetation  of,  308 

—  people  of,  306,  312 

Uni<jn,  Cape,  Dr.  Hayes's  sledge  voyage 

to,  436 
United  I'^tates,  right  of,  to  fish  on  tin' 

banks  (jf  Newfoundlan<l,  444 
Ural    Mountains,  Castren's    passage  ef 

the,  181 

—  first  discovery  of  gold  in  the,  2.SS 

—  (|uantity  of  gold  found  in  the,  238.  'i.'W 
Ustsylmsk,   Castren's  visit  to,   and  ili- 

treatment  at,  179,  180 
Utzjoki,  the  pastor  of,  173 
Uusa  river,  Castren's  journey  up  the,  IK'i 


VAAGE,  cod-fishery  of,  115 
—  ancient  importance  of,  116 
Vaager  Kallen,  in  the  Lofoten  Islaml-. 

view  of,  109 
Vancouver's    Island,   placed  nnder  tli' 

management   of    flio    Ihnlson's   I'liVj 

Company,  346 
Vapour  bat^hs  of  the  Cree  Indians,360,.3iJl  ] 
Viiro,  the,  of  Norway,  1 14 
Vegetation,  protection  afforded  by  snufll 

to.  6 

—  distinctive  characters  of  the  Arcti^ 

forests,  8.  9 

—  of  the  '  barren  grounds,'  4,  7 

—  length  of  time  necessary  for  the  forj 

mat  ion    of    even    small   steins 
frees  in  tiie  Arctic  regions,  9 


iNi)i<:x. 


547 


c>  town 


and  if 


ijritivika),  l"f, 

Is  of  the  Areli.' 

jwles,  175 

is,  17s 

licr   lit  Ro'khMli, 

itionship  to  t!i' 

final  su1',i»S:^»'"» 
•iTA,  276 
vclopnifiit.  '2i'' 
lulalioii,  •i7(') 

2  7'.' 

.ustnms,  2<7,  .i"" 

A    fluids    of     til'-. 

if  Piitas^oniii,  iV>7 
,v\s-.tsto,183.1H--. 
nuus  size  of,  32 


e,  liis  first  code  ot 
.,70 
of,  307,  308 


■y 


cs's  sledge  voyage 


,f_  to  fi'^h  0"  '^ 
dla'nd,  44-i 
iistrou's    passage 


ot 


,ldintho,23S 
,;mdinthc,23S2.;. 
s  visit  to,  and  m- 

180 

.journey  xiptU'-,l»^ 


ryof,  ll''> 
nortanceof,  110 
'hn  Lofoten  Islana^. 


placed  under 


l^;,y] 


rec 


Indians,36n,3iilB- 


llt 


hou 


afforded  by  ^""^ 


Jacters 


of  tlic  Arcti^ 


kron 


|vcn 
U'e 


nds.M,  7  . 

tlie  wfi 
small  stems 


i'e:^sary 


tic  regions' 


VKO 

Vegetation,  harmlfss  character  of  tlio 
Arctic  plants,  9 

—  no   land    yet  discovered    in   which 

ve;^otation  is  entirely  subdued  by 
winter,  10 

—  former  vegetation    of  the    northern 

reftions  of  the  jrlobe,  1,3 

—  of  Spitzbergon,  128 

—  of  Novaya  /emlya,  149 

—  of  Taiinurlaiiil,  2.')() 

—  of  Kamtsehatka,  2!)().  291 

-  uf  the  JJay  of  Awats-ha,  293 

—  of  the  rribilow  Islands,  309 
— ■  of  Newfoundland,  HO 

—  uf  Greenland,   l;')9 

—  absence  of,  in  the  Antarctic  regions, 

4  (■),') 

—  -  of  I'urt  Famine,  493 

Vevehnei  Ostrog,  in  Kamtschatka,  built, 

211 
Verazzani,  his  voyages,  378 
Vestfjord,  cod-fishery  of  the,  115 
Victoria  Land,  tliscovery  of  481 
Videy,  eider  ducks  of,  6 1,  Co 
I'iirr,  eider  ducks  of,  Go 

-  Mr.  Shepherd's  visit  to,  fio,  66 
Vikings,  their  courage  and  discoveries,  73 
Virgins,  Cape,  491 

Vogelsang,  deer  of,  129 

Volcanic  eruptions  in  Iceland  since  its 
colonization,  81 

Volcanoes  giving  birth  to  Iceland,  50 
those  now  fxisting  there,  .'jl 
the  Esk,  on  Jan  Meven,  139 
of  Kamtschatka,  292,  293 

—  eruption  of  Mount  Erebus,  482 
h'ole,  iield   (Arvivoht   (economiis),  indi- 

gi'uous  to  Iceland,  62 
IVuvMgeur,  the,  of  North  America,  339 
I—  his  life  and  character,  340,  341 


ilrus,  or  morse  {Trickcchnsrosmarus), 

Inscription  of  the,  44.  4') 

its  affectionate  temper,  45 

its  parental  love,  45 

its  chief  resorts  and  food,  46 

walrus  fishing  at  Siiitzbergen,  136 

hunted  on  ]5iar  Island,  137 

of  Novaya  Zemlya,  152 

walrus-hunting  on  the  coast  ol  Al- 

jaska,  315 
pieces  of  walrus-skin  a  medium  of 

exchange,  316 

■  Esquimaux  mode  of  hunting  it,  329 
iishington  Land,  discovery  of,  429 

■  l)r.  Hayes's  journey  to,  436 
iissiljew,  his  visit  to  the  Lena,  209 
"aygatz,  island  of,  the  sacred  island  of 
the  Samojedes,  188 

''UM'l,  the  Siberian  f  r/i'cT/'«  Slbcrica), 
ilie  fur  of.  22G 


Ull, 

Weddell,  Captain,  his  Antarctic  voyages, 

480 
Weldeii,  his  visit  to  Hear  Island,  1.37 
Wellington  Channel,  temperature  of,  12 

—  iliseovery  of,  :59.3 
Wenj'amin,  tho  Archimandrite.  174 
Western,  Thouias,  iinachus  Christianity 

to  the  Lapps.  155 
Wotniann  jslaiuls,  description  of  the, 
10.3 

—  ditlieulty  of  acctss  of  the.  103,  104 

—  how  they  becainr  coloiiizod,  1(>4 

—  Ileimaey,  or  Home  Island,  105 

—  f  lod  and  tr.ide  of  the  peojile,  106 

—  population  and  mortalitv  of  the  ehil- 

(Iron.  1(»().  107 

—  their  sufllrings  from  pirates,  107, 108 
AVovmouth,  his  voyage  to  Hudson's  U.av, 

387 
Whale,  the  Greenland  (Bahpiia   mijsti- 
cifi(s),  or  smoothback,  41,  42 

—  otl' Novay.i  /emlya,  153 
Whale,  the  white,  or  beluga,  42 
AVIijile,  the  '  ca'ing,'  43 

AVhale,  a  stranded,  at  Spitzbergen,  125 
Whale,  the  finback.  39,  42 

—  of  Sfiitzbergcn,  130 

—  otf  Novaya  Zendya.  153 

Whale,  smooth-backed,  of  the  Antarctic 

seas,  473 
Whale,  sperm,  of  the  Antarctic  ocean, 

475 
Whalers,  their  dangers,  in  the  Arctic 

seas,  31 

—  depressing  effect  of  tin;  summer  fogs, 

36 
- —  among  icebergs,  40 

—  their  operations  in  the  polar  seas,  41 

—  whale-chases  of  the  Aleuts,  311 

—  whale-hunts  of  the  l']s(|uiniaux,  325 

—  abundance  of  whales   in    the   Ant- 

arctic seas.  473 

—  battle  bi  tween  a  whale  and  a  gram- 

pus. 175 
Whale  sound,  enormous  glaciers  of,  32 
White-fish,    or    Coregonus,    of    North 

Anu;rica.  347 
White  .Sea,  C.istren's  journey  to  the,  174 

—  Chanct  llor's  discovery  of  the  passage 

from  iMigland  to  the.  204 

—  an  English  expedition  in  the,  379 
Wigwams  of  the  Cree  Indians.  356,  3()0 
Wilkes.  Captiiin,  his  discoveries  in  the 

Antarctic  Ocean,  480 
Wilkes's  Land,  discovery  of,  481 
Williwaws  of  the  Straits  of  Magellan, 

196 
AVillonghby,  Sir  Hugh,  his  vovage  and 

deatli,  378,  379 
Willow,  polar  (Safixjwlitris),  of  Novaya 

Zemlya,  149 

—  dwarf,  of  the  treeless  zone,  7 


i 

I 


>48 


INDKX. 


= 


wir, 


Willow,  dwarf,  on  the  shores  of  the  rivers 
and  hikes,  8 

Wind  Hole  Strait  of  the  Dutch  naviga- 
tors, 383,  381 

Winds,  eiftets  of  tlie  cold  sea  winds  on 
vegetation,  7 

—  influence  of  the  winds  on  an  Arctic 
climate,  11 

Winter  Harbour,  Parry's  winter  in,  393 
Wmferia  uromatica,  the,  41)3 
AVitclicraft  and  witches  of  the  Lapland- 
ers, 167 
AVolf,  its  attack  of  tlic  reindeer,  21 

—  Lapp  mode  of  hunting  the,  166 

—  in  Newfoundland,  413 
Wolverine.  See  Glutton. 

—  fur  of  the,  Sfll 

Wood,  length  of  time  necessary  for  tlie 
formation  of,  in  tlie  Arctic  regions,  9 

Wrangell,  Lieut,  von,  his  services  as  an 
Arctic  explorer,  259,  260 

—  his  journey  to  the  shores  of  the  polar 

sea,  260 

—  his  winters  at  Kolymsk,  268 

—  his  night  on  tlie  polar  sea,  269 


ZIW 


Wrangell,  Lieut,  von.  his  danger,  and 
return  to  St,  Peterslnirg,  273,  271 

Wrestling  for  a  wife  among  the  TiuiK^ 
Indians,  369 

—  and    among    the   Kutohin    Indians, 

372,  373 

TERMAK   Timodajeff,    the    Cossaok 
robber,  20o 

—  his  conquest  of  Siberia  and  dcutli, 

207,  208 

—  his  monument  in  Tobolsk,  208 
York  roads,  beauty  of,  495 

ZIOILYA,  Novava,  vast  ice-ficMs  of, 
10 

—  mean  temperature  of,  in  summer  imj 

winter,  11 

—  the  narwiial  of  tlie  seas  of,  42 

—  tiie  walruses  of  the  eoasts  of,  Hi 
Zinzendorf,  Count, his  interest  in  (jivon- 

land,  4o3 
Ziwoika,    the   Russian    steersman,   his 
voyages,  144,  1 15 

—  l)is  meteorological  observations,  145 


tONDOX;     I'RISTED    BV 

8POTTI3WOODK    AND    CO.,     NliW-STKKF.T    SQl'Aua 

AND    PAlll.lAJlli.Nl'    blKKliT 


is  (lanpffr,  ami 
rg,  273,  274 
(jiig  the  Tiling 

tchin    Indiuii.s, 


;  the  Cossack 
ria  and  death, 
iol.sk,  2U8 

st  ice-fields  of, 
in  summer  mid 

as  of,  42 

lasts  of,  40 
erest  in  CiriHii- 

stecrsmun,   his 

servations,  145